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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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Irregular  pagination:   [1  -  3],  i  -  xiii,  2&'358, 361  -362,  365  -  366,  371  •  372, 373  -380, 
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'      1 


ARCTIC 

EXPLORATIONS  AND  DISCOVERIES 

DURING  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

BEINQ   DETAILED  ACCOUNTS  OW 

THE  SEVERAL  .EXPEDITIONS  TO  THE  NORTH  SEAS, 

BOTn  ENGLISH  AND  AMERIUAN,  CONDUCTED  BT 
BOSS,  PAERT,  BACK,  FRANKLIN,  M'CLUEB  AND  OTHERS. 

INCLUDING 

THE  FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION,      ' 

ITNDER  LIEUTENANT  DE  HAVEN,  AND  Tm 

FINAL  EFFORT  OF  DR.  E.  K.  KANE 

.♦  •  .  IN 

SEARCH  OF  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 

EDITED  AND  COMPLETED 
BT 

SAMUEL  M.  SMUCKER,  A.  M., 

ATTTHOB  OF  "  OOTTBT  AMD  BEIGN  OF  OATHBRINB  H.,"  "  NICHOLAS  L,"  "  MEHOBABU 
SOElfES  IN  CSXNCH  HUTOBT,"  "HISTOBT  OF  THB  ItOBlIONS,"  STC. 


NEW  YORK  AND  AUBURN : 
MILLER,    ORTON  &   0  0., 

New  York :  25  Park  Bow—Aabura :  107  GoBesee-st 
1857. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  In  tlio  year  one  thonsand  eight  hundred 

and  flfty-seven, 

BY  MILLER,  ORTON  &  CO., 
In  the  Clerk's  OfUce  of  the  Dlatrict  Court  of  the  Northern  District  of  New  York. 


PREFACE. 


The  records  of  maritime  adventure  and  discovery  con- 
stitute one  of  the  most  attractive  pages  in  literature. 
Nearly  three  thousand  years  before  the  birth  of  Christ, 
the  bold  Tyrians  and  Phoenicians  deserted  the  confines  of 
their  native  continent  to  explore  new  realms,  and  to  ob- 
tain from  the  then  unknown  land  of  Spain,  the  means  of 
augmented  splendor,  luxury,  and  wealth.  From  that  re- 
mote period,  down  through  succeeding  ages  until  the 
present,  the  most  enterprising  and  dauntless  of  human 
spirits  have  found  their  congenial  field  of  labor  and  ac- 
tivity in  adventuring  into  untrodden  and  unfamiliar  re 
gions  in  search  of  riches,  celebrity,  and  conquest. 

It  was  this  spirit  which  has  in  the  past  given  birth  to 
many  great  states  and  empires.  It  was  this  spirit  which 
planted  Carthage  on  the  northern  shores  of  Africa,  and 
eventually  rendered  her  the  dangerous  and  not  unworthy 
rival  of  Rome.  It  wgis  this  spirit  which  built  Marseilles, 
Aries,  Nismes,  and  many  of  the  most  important  cities  of 


IV 


1' in:  FACE. 


France,  "whidi  rontnin  to  tliis  day  impressive  monuments 
of  Roman  origin  and  Hupromacy.  It  was  this  spirit  wliich 
made  Eni^land  pass  successively  under  the  resistless  sway 
of  her  Roman,  Saxon,  Danish,  and  Norman  conquerors. 
But  more  especially  was  it  this  restless  and  insatiable 
genius  of  adventure  which  created  the  greatness  of  the 
chief  maritime  cities  of  modern  Italy,  of  Genoa  and  Ven- 
ice, as  well  as  that  of  the  kingdom  of  Portugal  and  Spain. 
To  this  same  desire  for  discovery  the  world  is  indebted 
for  the  glorious  achievements  of  Columbus,  Vespucius, 
and  De  Soto ;  and  for  the  revelation  of  the  magnificent 
novelties  and  unparalleled  beauties  of  these  western  con- 
tinents, ladencd  with  the  most  valuable  treasures  and 
products  of  the  earth,  which  they  threw  open  to  the 
knowledge  and  the  possession  of  mankind. 

After  the  discovery  of  the  American  continents,  and  af- 
ter tlie  thorough  exploration  of  the  Southern  and  Pacific 
oceans,  it  was  generally  supposed  that  the  materials  for 
further  adventures  of  this  description  had  all  been  ex- 
hausted. The  whole  habitable  globe  seemed  then  to 
have  been  made  accessible  and  familiar  to  men,  both  as 
apostles  of  science  and  as  emissaries  of  commerce.  It 
was  thought  that  the  era  of  maritime  discovery,  the  days 
of  Vasco  de  Gama,  of  Marco  Polo,  and  of  Sydney,  had 
ended  forever.  But  this  supposition  was  erroneous.  One 
additional  field  of  this  description  yet  remained.  It  was 
indeed  a  gloomy  and  repulsive  one.  It  was  totally  de- 
void of  the  attractive  and  romantic  splendors  which  in 
other  days  had  allured  men  to  sail  through  tranquil 
oceans  to  fragrant  islands,  which  bloomed  like  gardens  on 
the  bosom  of  summer  seas ;  or  to  continents  which  were 
covered  with  the  richness  of  tropical  vegetation  and  luxu 


PKEFAOE. 


rianco,  and  were  storctl  with  spiccp,  gold,  and  gems.  But 
it  was  a  field  which  demanded  greater  heroism,  greater 
endurance,  and  was  fraught  with  greater  perils,  than  any 
other  department  of  discovery.  This  region  lay  far  up 
toward  the  Northern  Pole.  It  was  the  vast  frozen  land 
of  everlasting  snow-fields,  of  stupendous  ice-bergs,  of 
hyperborean  storms,  of  the  long,  cheerless  nights  of  tiio 
Arctic  Zone.  To  navigate  and  ex[)loro  these  dismal 
realms,  men  of  extreme  daring,  of  sublime  fortitude,  of 
miconquerablo  perseverance,  were  absolutely  necessary. 
And  such  men  possessed  one  great  element  of  diLjtinguish- 
hig  greatness,  of  which  the  explorers  of  more  g(3nial  and 
inviting  climes  were  destitute.  Their  investigations  were 
made  entirely  without  the  prospect  of  rich  reward,  and 
chiefiy  for  the  promotion  of  the  magnificent  ends  of 
science.  The  discovery  of  a  north-western  passage  was 
indeed  not  forgotten ;  but  it  must  be  conceded  that  other 
less  mercenary  and  more  philanthropic  motives  havo 
given  rise  to  the  larger  portion  of  the  expeditions  which, 
during  the  progress  of  the  nineteenth  century,  liave  in- 
vaded the  cheerless  solitudes  of  that  dangerous  and  re- 
pulsive portion  of  the  globe. 

The  following  pages  contain  a  narrative  of  the  chief 
adventures  and  discoveries  of  Arctic  explorers  during 
this  century.  No  expedition  of  any  importance  has  been 
omitted ;  and  the  work  has  been  brought  down  in  its  de- 
tails to  the  present  time,  so  as  to  include  a  satisfactory 
account  of  the  labors,  sufferings,  and  triumphs  of  that 
prince  of  Arctic  explorers  and  philanthropists,  Dr.  Kane ; 
whose  adventures,  and  whose  able  narrative  of  them,  en- 
title him  to  fadeless  celebrity,  both  as  a  hero  in  the  field, 
and  as  a  man  of  high  genius  and  scholarship. 


I! 


I  ! 


VI 


PREFACE. 


Every  reader  who  carefully  peruses  the  following  pa-' 
_  s  must  be  convinced  that  the  Arctic  hemisphere  has 
now  been  thoroughly  explored.  Every  accessible  spot 
has  been  visited  and  examined  by  some  one  or  other 
of  the  various  expeditions  which  have  been  sent  out ;  and 
that  vast  extent  of  countries  and  of  seas  which  intervene 
from  Smith's  Sound  and  Wolstenholme  Sound  in  the  ex- 
treme east,  being  the  remotest  northern  limits  of  Green- 
land, to  the  westward  as  far  as  to  Behring's  Straits,  which 
divide  America  from  Asia,  has  been  examined.  These 
limits  inclose  an  area  of  about  four  thousand  miles,  every 
attainable  portion  of  which  has  been  subjected  to  the 
scrutiny  of  recent  Arctic  explorers.  It  can  scarcely  be  ex- 
pected that  any  traces  of  the  existence  and  fate  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  still  remain  on  the  globe,  which  further  perse- 
verance and  research  could  possibly  reveal.  Even  if  the 
great  chapter  of  Arctic  discovery  and  adventure  should 
now  be  closed,  it  will  constitute  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able and  entertaining  departments  of  human  heroism, 
enterprise,  and  endurance,  which  biography  or  history 
presents. 


CONTENTS. 


Introductor7  Remarks, 25 

Little  known  of  tlie  Arctic  Regions — Notice  of  Capt.  Phipps'  Voyage — Parry's  ana 
Franklin's  opinions  (in  a  northwest  passage — Abstract  of  Sir  Jolin  Barrow's  works  on 
Arctic  Discovery — England's  neglect  of  her  nautical  heroes. 

Captain  Sir  John  Ross's  Voyage  in  the  Isabella  and  Alexander  to 
Hudson's  Bay  in  1818 37 

Names  of  the  officers  and  men—  Ships  visited  by  the  natives  of  Greenland — Abun- 
dance of  birds  on  this  coast — Gale  of  wind — Red  snow — Lancaster  Sound — The  fabu- 
lous Croker  mountains — Agnes  monument — Large  bear  shot — Return  home. 

Voyage  of  Biichan  and  Franklin  in  the  Dorothea  and  Trent,  to 
Spitzbergen,  <fec.,  1818, 45 

Names  of  officers  and  complement,  &c. — Fanciful  appearance  of  icebergs — Shipu 
arrive  at  Spitzbergen — Anchor  in  Magdalen  Bay — Hanging  icebergs — Immense  flocks 
of  birds — Dangerous  ascent  of  Rotge  Hill — Attack  of  walruses — Surprised  by  unlooked- 
for  visitors — Devout  feeling  of  recluses — Expedition  puts  to  sea  again — Party  lose 
themselves  on  the  ice — Ships  damaged  by  the  pressure  of  the  floes — Dangerous  position 
of  the  ships — They  take  refuge  in  the  main  pack  of  icebergs — Vessels  put  into  Fair 
Haven  to  stop  leaks  and  refit — Return  home. 

Fmnklin's  First  Land  Expedition,  1819-21 61 

Party  leave  England  in  the  Prince  of  Wales — Reach  Hudson's  Bay  factory  by  tho 
end  of  August — Proceed  by  the  rivers  and  lakes  to  Cumberland  House — Arrive  at  Fori 
Chipewyan  after  a  winter  journey  of  857  miles — Engage  voyageurs  and  guides — Make 
the  acquaintance  of  Akaitcho,  the  Indian  chief— Push  on  fr  Fort  Enterprise,  which 
is  made  their  winter  residence  after  a  voyage  of  563  miles — Exploring  excursions  car- 
ried on  during  the  winter — "  Green  Stockings,"  the  Indian  beauty — Stores  and  Esqui- 
maux interpreters  arrive — Severity  of  the  winter — Sufferings  of  the  Indians — Party 
set  out  for  the  Polar  Sea — Examine  the  coast  westward  of  Point  Turnagain — Dreadftil 
hardships  and  sufferings  endured  on  their  return  Journey,  from  famine  and  fatigue- 
Death  of  several  of  the  party — Mr.  Hood  is  murdered  by  Michel  the  Iroquois,  who, 
for  their  mutual  safety,  is  killed  by  Dr.  Ricluirdson — Hunger  and  famine  endured  by 
the  party — Their  ultimate  relief. 

Farry's  First  Voyage  in  the  Hecla  and  Griper,  1819-20, 85 

Names  of  oflicers  serving,  &c. — Enter  Lancaster  Sound — The  Croker  mountains 
prove  to  be  fallacious — Parry  discovers  and  enters  Regent  Inlet — Also  discovers  and 
names  various  islands,  capes,  and  channels — Reaches  Meh-ille  Island — Expedition  cross 
the  meridian  of  110"  W.,  and  become  entitled  to  the  Parliamentary  reward  of  jC.5000 
—Drop  anchor  for  the  first  time — Land  on  the  island — Abundance  of  animals  found — 
An  exploring  pr'ty  lose  themselves  for  three  days,  but  are  recovered  and  brought 
back — Vessels  get  into  wmter-quarters — A  MS.  newspaper  published — amat«>ur  plays 
performed — Observatory  destroyed  by  Are — Scurvy  makes  its  appearance — Crews  put 
on  short  allowance — An  excursion  of  a  fortnight  made  to  examine  tbi  island — Ships  get 
mle&T  of  the  ice — But  are  unable  to  make  further  progress  to  the  westward,  and  thoir 
nturn  to  England  is  deter  mlnod  on. 


1 


I 


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C  0  N  T  E  NTS. 


Parry's  Second  Voyage  in  the  Fury  and  Ilecla,  1821-23 lUl 

His  opinion  as  to  a  northwest  passage — Make  Kcsolution  island,  at  the  entrance  of 
Hudson's  Strait— Dangers  o  the  iei' — Fall  in  >vith  Hudson'  sHay  Company's  sliipu,  and 
emigrant  vessel,  with  Dutch  colonists  proceeding  to  Ked  Kiver — Two  innnense  bears 
killed — Descrii>tion  of  the  Escjuiinaux — Surveys  made  of  all  the  indentations  and  coasts 
of  this  hjcality — Ships  driven  back  by  the  current  and  dritl-ice — Take  up  their  winter- 
quarters — And  resort  to  theatrical  amusements  again — Schools  established — Great 
severity  of  the  winter — Surveying  operations  resumed — Intelligent  Esquimaux  female 
afi'ords  valuable  hydrograi)hical  inf<n'mation — Perilous  position  of  the  Hecia — Her 
miraculous  release — Ships  pass  their  second  winter  at  Igloolik — The  Fury  and  HecIa 
Strait  examined— Ice  breaks  up — Ships  driven  about  by  the  current  for  thirty-five 
days — At  last  gain  the  Atlantic  and  make  for  England.     . 

Clavering's  Voyage  to  Spitzbergen  and  Greenland  in  the  Griper, 
1823 126 

Conveys  out  Capt.  Sahine  to  make  observations — Reach  Spitsbergen — Proceed  thenca 
to  Pendulum  Islands — Northeastern  coast  of  Greenland  surveyed — Cai)tjiin  Clavering 
and  a  party  of  nineteen  men  carry  on  an  exploring  expedition  for  a  fortnight — Meet 
with  a  tribe  of  Es(iuiniaux — Ship  puts  to  sea — Make  for  the  coast  of  Norway — Anchor 
in  Drontheira  Fiord — Observations  being  completed,  ship  retm'us  to  England. 

Lyon's  Voyage  in  the  Griper, 128 

Is  sent  to  survey  and  examine  the  straits  and  shores  of  Antic  America — Arrives  in 
the  channel  known  as  Roe's  Welcome — Encoiuiters  a  territicr  gale — Is  hi  imminent  dan- 
ger in  the  Bay  of  God's  Mercy — SuH'ers  from  anotlier  fearful  storm — The  s'aip  being 
quite  crippled,  and  liaviiig  lost  all  her  anchors,  &c.,  is  obliged  to  return  liome. 

Parry -s  Third  Voyage  in  the  Hecla  and  Fury,  1824-2.5 130 

Names  and  number  of  the  officers,  iHco. — Tlecla  laid  on  her  broadside  by  tlie  ice — 
Ships  reach  Lancaster  Sound — Enter  l{egent  Inlet,  aiid  winter  at  Port  Bowen — Dreary 
char  I  iter  of  the  arctic  winter — Former  amusements  worn  threadbare — Polar  Bal 
Masqtj)  pot  up — Explorhig  parties  sent  out  inland  and  along  the  coast — Sliips  are 
releasee,  but  beset  by  the  ice,  and  carried  by  the  pack  down  tVie  inlet — Fury  driven  ou 
shore  and  abandoned — Return  voyage  necessarily  determined  on — Scarcity  of  animal 
food  in  this  locality — Hecla  arrives  at  Peterhead — Parry's  opinions  of  the  northwest 
passage. 

Franklin's  Second  Land  Expedition,  1825-26 137 

Names  of  the  officers  accomjiany ing  liim — A  rrive  in  New  York  and  proceed  through 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  territories — Winter  at  Fort  Franklin  on  Great  Bear 
Lake — A  pioneer  party  proceeds  to  examine  the  state  of  the  Polar  Sea — Return  and 
pass  the  long  winter — Descend  the  Mackenzie  in  the  spring— Party  divide  ;  Franklin 
and  Back  proceeding  to  the  westward,  while  Dr.  Ricli.irdson  and  Mr.  Kendal,  &c., 
follow  the  Coppermine  River — Franklin  encounters  a  fierce  tribe  of  Esquimaux  at  the 
sea — After  a  month's  snrvej'  to  the  eastward,  Franklin  and  his  party  retrace  their  steps 
— Find  Richardson  and  Kendal  had  retiirnd  before  them,  after  reaching  and  explor- 
ing Dolphin  and  Union  Strait — Another  winter  spent  at  Fort  Franklin — Intensity  of 
the  cold— Large  collection  of  objects  of  natural  history  made  by  Mr.  Drumraond^ 
Franklin's  struggle  between  affection  and  duty — Party  return  to  England. 

Captain  Beechey's  Vovago  to  Behring's  Strait  in  the  Blossom, 
1825-26 " 140 

Anchors  off  Petropaulowski — Receives  intelligence  of  Parry's  safe  return — Interview 
wit.>>  the  natives — Correct  hydrographical  descriptions  given  by  the  Esquimaux- 
Ship  8  boat  pushes  on  to  the  eastward  as  far  as  Point  Barrow,  to  communicate  with 
Franklin — Crew  in  danger  from  the  natives — Obliged  to  return  to  their  ships — Tlie 
Blossom  proceeds  to  the  Pacific,  to  replenish  her  provisions — Returns  to  Kotzebue 
Sound  in  the  summer — Ship  grounds  on  a  sand-bank,  but  is  got  ofV^— Boat  sent  out  to 
learn  tidings  of  Franklin,  is  wrecked— Crew  come  into  collision  with  hostile  natives, 
and  are  wounded;  picked  up  by  the  ship— Dispatches  left  for  Franklin,  and  the  ak  ^ 
returns  to  England. 


#         1 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


Parry's  Fourth  or  Polar  Voyage  in  the  Hecla,  1827 144 

Plaus  and  suggestions  of  Scoresby,  Ueaufi)y  and  Franklin  for  travelinor  in  sledgei 
over  the  ice — Names  of  tlie  otUcers  employed— Sliip  embarks  reindeer  on  tiio  Norway 
coast — Experiences  a  tremendous  gale — Beset  by  ice  fur  a  month — Anchors  at  Spitz- 
bergen — Sledge-boats  prepared  for  the  ice  journey — Description  of  tlieni — Night 
turned  into  day — Slow  progress — Occupations  of  tlie  party — Lose  ground  by  the 
southward  drift  of  the  ice — Bear  aliot — Notices  of  animals  seen — Ueacli  northernmost 
known  land — The  islet  named  after  Koss — Keturn  to  the  ship— Parry's  subsequent 
suggestions  on  this  mode  of  traveling — Sir  John  Barrow's  connnents  thereon — Opin- 
ions of  this  perilous  ice  journey — lleview  of  Parry's  arctic  serrices. 

Captain  John  Ross's  Second  Voyage  in  the  Victory,  1829-33 155 

Ross  seeks  official  employment  from  the  Admiralty  on  another  arctic  voyage — is  re- 
fused— Funds  are  furnished  by  Mr.  Felix  Booth — The  Victory  steamer  purchased^ 
En[jages  his  nephew,  Commander  James  Ross,  as  his  second  in  connnaud — List  of 
other  otHcers — Ship  encounters  a  gale,  and  is  obUged  to  put  into  Ilolsteinberg  to  refit 
—Proceed  on  their  voyage — Enter  Lancaster  Sound  and  Regent  Inlet — Reach  Fury 
Beach — Find  abundance  of  stores  there,  and  preserved  meat  in  excellent  condition — 
Replenish  their  stock — Proceed  down  the  Inlet — Perils  of  the  ice — Vessel  secured  in 
Felix  Harbor  for  the  winter — Esquimaux  visit  the  ship — Furnish  very  correct  sketches 
of  the  coast — '^jramandor  James  Ross  makes  many  excursions  inland  and  along  the 
bays  and  inlets — Explores  Ross's  Strait,  and  pushes  on  to  King  William's  Land — UilU- 
culty  of  distiiiguisbixjg  land  from  sea — Reaches  Point  Victory  and  turns  back — Ship 
gets  dear  of  the  ice,  after  eleven  months'  imprisonment,  but  in  a  week  is  again  frozen 
in,  and  the  party  are  detained  during  another  severe  winter— Further  discoveries  made, 
and  Connn;inder  Ross  plants  the  British  tlag  on  the  north  magnetic  pole — In  August, 
IblJl,  the  ship  is  warped  out,  an*l  makes  sail,  but  after  beating  about  for  a  month,  is 
again  frozen  in ;  and  rather  than  spend  u  fourth  winter,  there  being  no  prospect  of 
releasuig  the  ship,  she  is  abandoned,  and  the  crew  make  for  Fury  Beach — Provisions 
«nd  boats  taken  on  with  great  labor — Party  erect  a  canvas  but,  which  they  name  Som- 
erset House — In  a  month,  the  boats  being  prepared  for  tlie  voyage,  the  party  embark, 
and  reach  the  moutli  of  the  mlet — Barrow's  Strait  is  found  one  compact  mass  of  ice— 
They  are  obliged  to  fall  back  on  the  stores  at  Fury  Beach  to  spend  their  fourth  winter- 
Placed  on  short  allowance — In  the  spring  they  agaui  embark  in  their  boats  and  succeed 
in  reaching  Lancaster  Sound — Fall  in  witli  whalers — Are  received  on  board  the  Isabella, 
Captain  Rosjj's  old  ship — Arrive  home — Public  rejoicmgs  for  their  safety — Rewards 
granted — Resume  of  Captain  John  Ross's  services. 

Captain  Back's  Land  Journey  in  search  of  Ross,  1833-34 168 

Attention  called  to  the  missing  expedition  by  Dr.  Richardson — Plana  of  relief  sug- 
gested— Public  meeting  held  to  consider  the  best  measures — Ample  funds  raised — Capt 
Back  volnnteers— Leaves  England  with  Dr.  King — Voyageurs  and  guides,  &c.,  engaged 
in  Canada— Party  push  through  the  northwest  country — Dreadful  sufferings  from 
Insect  pests — Reach  Fort  Resolution,  on  Great  Slave  I<ake — Motley  description  of  the 
travelers  and  their  encampment — Arrangements  are  completed,  and  the  journey  m 
search  of  the  Great  Fish  River  commenced — Frightful  nature  of  the  precipices,  rap- 
»d3,  falls,  ravines,  &c. — Meet  with  old  acquaintances — Obliged  to  return  to  their  wintef 
quaiters — Dreadful  sufferings  of  the  Indians — Famine  and  intense  cold — Noble  conduct 
of  Akaitcho,  the  Indian  chief— News  received  of  Captain  Ross's  safe  return  to  England 
— Franklin's  faithful  Esquimaux  interpretei",  Augustus,  endeavoring  to  join  Back,  in 
frozen  to  death — A  fresh  journey  toward  the  sea  is  resolved  on — Provisions  for  three 
months  taken — Indian  encampment — Green  Stockings,  the  beauty— Interview  with  the 
chief,  Akaitcho — Arduous  and  perilous  progress  toward  the  sea — Pilfering  propensi- 
ties of  the  Indians — Meet  with  a  large  friendly  tribe  of  Esquimaux — Reach  tlie  sea, 
and  proceed  along  the  coast  to  the  ea.stward,  unable  to  arrive  at  the  Point  Turnagaia 
jf  Franklin — Privations  of  the  party  on  their  return  journey — Difficulties  encountered 
in  re-ascending  the  river — Reach  Fort  Reliance  after  four  months'  absenc»^ — Pass  the 
winter  there — Cajitain  1'  ck  arrives  in  England  in  September,  after  an  absence  of 
two  years  and  a  half^Dr.  King  foUows  him  in  the  Hudsons  Bay  spring  ships. 

Back's  Voyage  in  the  Terror  up  Hudson's  Strait,  1 836 186 

Ship  arrives  at  Salisbury  Island — Proceeds  up  Frozen  Strait — Is  blocked  up  by  the 
ice,  and  driven  about  powerless  for  more  than  six  months— Cast  on  her  beam  enda 
for  three  d;i\s— From  the  crippled  .state  of  the  -liip  and  the  insurmountable  difficultiefi 
Tf  th6  navi;>:ation,  the  return  to  England  is  determined  on — Sumuiary  of  Captaia 
Back's  cjftic  sernces. 


CONTENTS. 


Messrs.  Dease  and   Simpson's  Discoveries  on  the  coast  of  Arctic 
America,  1836-39 , 187 

Descend  the  Mackenzie  to  the  sea — Survey  the  western  part  of  the  shores  of  North 
America  from  Return  Reef  to  Cape  Barrow— DiBooTer  two  new  rivers,  the  Garry 
•nd  Colville — After  reaching  ELson  Bay,  return  to  winter  at  Fort  Confidence,  on  Great 
Bear  Lake — Survey  resumed  in  the  ensuing  spring — Dangerous  rapids  on  the  Copper- 
mine river — Encamp  at  its  mouth — Copper  ore  found  here — Victoria  Land  discovered 
and  140  miles  of  new  coast  traced — Re-ascent  of  the  Coppermine  commenced — Boatu 
abandoned,  and  the  Barren  grounds  traversed  on  foot — Spend  another  winter  at  Fort 
Confidence — Tlie  following  season  a  third  voyage  commenced— RichardsQn's  River 
•.\amined — Coronation  Gulf  found  clear  of  ice — Coast  survey  to  the  eastward  prose- 
cuted— ISimpson's  Strait  discovered— Back's  Estuary  reached — Deposit  of  provisioni 
made  by  Back  five  years  previous,  found — Aberdeen  Island,  the  extreme  point  reached 
—Parts  of  coasts  of  Boothia  and  Victoria  Land  traced — One  of  the  boats  abandoned- 
Descent  of  the  Coppermine,  and  safe  arrival  at  Fort  Confidence. 

Dr.  John  Rae's  Land  Expedition,  1846-47 199 

Hudson's  Bay  Company  dispatch  Rae  and  a  party  of  thirteen  men  to  complete  th» 
■urvey  between  Dease  and  Simjison's  furthest,  and  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait — Expe- 
dition leaves  Fort  Churchill — Reaches  Wager  River — Boats  taken  across  Rae's  Isthmus 
— Winter  residence  constructed — Short  commons — West  shore  of  Melville  Peninsula, 
&c.,  examined — Party  return  to  their  encampment,  and  proceed  to  Fort  Churchill- 
Gratuity  of  X40U  awarded  to  Dr.  Rae. 

Captain  Sir  John  Franklin's  Last  Expedition  in  the  Erebus  and 
Terror,   1845-51 196 

Probability  of  the  safety  of  the  expedition — Montgomery's  lines  on  ice-imprisoned 
vessels — Lady  Franklin's  devotion  and  enthusiasm — Verses — Her  appeal  to  the  north-— 
Sir  E.  Parry's  opinion — Outfit  and  dispatch  of  Franklin's  expedition — Names  of  the 
officers  employed — Outline  of  Franklin's  services — Notices  of  the  serWces  of  other  of 
the  officers — Searching  expeditions  sent  out  in  1848 — Different  volunteers  offer — Ab- 
sence of  intelligence  of  Franklin — TTis  latest  dispatches  and  letters — Copper  cylinders 
— Franklin's  views  and  intentions — i^etters  of  Capt^iin  Fitzjanies — General  opinions  of 
the  most  experienced  arctic  officers  jis  to  Franklin's  safety — Offer  of  services  and  sug- 
gestions by  Dr.  King — Opinions  of  Captains  Parry  and  James  Ross  thereon — Consulta- 
tion of  officers  at  tlie  Admiralty — Report  of  the  hydrographer — Advice  tendered  by 
tliose  consulted — Views  of  Mr.  Bnow  and  Mr.  McLean — Public  and  private  rewards 
offered  for  discovery  and  assistance  to  be  rendered — Second  report  of  Admiral  Beaufort 
to  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty — Various  private  and  official  letters  and 
dispatches,  pointing  out,  or  commenting  on  plans  and  modes  of  relief— Abundance  of 
animal  food  found  in  the  arctic  regions — A  ballad  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  Government  and  private  Searching  Expeditions 281 

List  of  the  vessels  and  commanders,  &c.,  now  employed  on  the  search  in  the  arctio 
regions — Notices  of  those  returned  home. 

Voyage  of  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator  under  Captains  Sir  J.  0. 
Ross  and  E.  J.  Bird,  1848-49    281 

Names  of  the  officers  employed  in  this  expedition — Ships  arrive  at  Uppernavick— 
Proceed  on  their  voyage — Force  a  passage  through  the  ice — Enter  Barrow's  Strait- 
After  being  driven  about  in  the  pack,  take  shelter  for  the  winter  in  the  liarbor  of  Port 
I,eopo!d — Surveying  trips  carried  on  down  the  inlet,  and  round  the  northern  and 
wp<5(-Hrn  shores  of  Root.hi* — Foxes  trapped  and  liberated  with  copper  collars  on — Fury 
open  water— Beset  by  the  loose  pack,  and  the  temperature  falling,  the  whole  body  of 
ice  is  formed  into  one  solid  mass,  and  the  ships  are  drifted  with  the  field  into  Baffin's 
Bay — The  return  to  England  determined  on — Outline  of  Sir  James  Ross's  arduous 
services  in  the  polar  regions. 

Voyaare  of  the  transport,  North  Star,  1849 f«}0 

Names  of  the  officers  of  the  ship— Official  dispatch  from  the  Commander— Sfilp 


CONTENTS. 


Lrctic 
187 

es  of  North 
I,  the  Garry 
;e,  on  Great 
he  Copper- 
.  discovered 
iced — BoatH 
ter  at  Fort 
jqn'g  River 
I'ard  prose- 
provisiont 
int  reached 
tiandoned — 


.193 


)mplete  th» 
•ait— Expe- 
e's  Isthmus 
i  Peninsula, 
Churchill — 


and 
196 

imprisoned 

he  north— 

mes  of  the 

•f  other  of 

offer — A^- 

t"  cylinders 

pinions  of 

and  sug- 

Consulta- 

dered  by 

rewards 

Beaufort 

etters  and 

idance  of 


...281 

;he  arctio 


.0. 
...281 

navick— 
Strait— 
of  Port 

ern  and 
-Fury 

bodv  of 
Baffin's 

arduous 


...WO 

-SfAlp 


beset  in  an  ice-ZUId  in  the  northern  part  of  BaflRn's  Bay— Drifted  with  it  for  sixty-two 
days — Wintei  fc  in  M'olstenholme  Sound — Deartli  of  animals  tliero — Ship  p;ct8  clear  of 
ice  and  makes  for  I^ancaster  Sound — The  Lady  Franklin  and  Felix  aie  spoken  with— 
Being  prevented  by  the  ije  from  reaching  Port  Bowen  or  Port  Neil,  tlie  provisions 
taken  out  by  the  North  Star  are  landed  at  Navy  Board  Inlet — Speaks  tiie  Prince  Albert 
.—Receives  dispatches  for  England — Returns  home — Commander  Saunders  appointed 
to  Malta  Dock-yard. 

Second  voyage  of  the  Entei-prisc  and  Investigator  under  Captain 
CoUinson  and  Commander  M'Clure,  1850 294 

Names  of  officers  attached  to  the  ships — Esquimaux  interpreter  appointed  to  the 
Enterprise — Vessels  arrive  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Exjiressed  intentions  of  the  com- 
manders of  the  vessels — Ships  reach  Behrinp's  Strait — Conmiiniicate  witli  the  Herald 
and  Plover — Latest  dispatches  of  Captain  Collinson  and  Commander  M'Clure — Position 
of  their  Ships. 

V"oyage  of  the  Plover,  and  Boat  Expeditions  nnder  Commander 
Puilen,    1848-51 307 

Purport  of  instructions  issued  from  the  Admiralty — Ship  arrives  in  Behrir.g's  Strait 
-Disrovers  new  land  and  islands  to  the  north  of  the  Strnit — Winters  in  Kotzebuo 
Sound — Lieutenant  Puilen  and  party  proceed  in  boats  alonjr  the  coast  to  the  Mackenzie 
River — No  tidings  gleaned  of  Franklin's  ships — Letter  from  Lieut.  Hooper — Latest  offi- 
cial disp<>tch  from  Commander  PuUen — His  intentions — Sir  John  Ricliardson's  advice. 

Voyage  of  the  Lady  Franklin  and  Sophia,  purchased  govemment 
ships,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Ponny 312 

Nature  of  the  instructions  given — Printing  Press  supplied — Ships  sail  and  reach 
Wolstenholme  Sound — Prevented  by  the  ice  from  examining  Jones'  Sound — Reach 
Wellington  Channel,  and  are  left  there  by  the  Prince  Albert. 

Voyage  of  the  Resolute  and  Assistance,  under  command  of  Captain 
Austin,  with  their  steam  tenders,  Pioneer  and  Intrepid,  1850-51 313 

Ships  purchased  and  are  renamed  by  the  government — Officers  employed — instruc- 
tions given  to  search  Wellington  Channel,  and  push  on  to  Melville  Inland — Official 
dispatch  from  Captain  Ommaney— MS.  newspaper  started  on  board  the  Assistance- 
Extracts  tlierefront. 

Voyage  of  Captain  Sir  John  Ross  iu  the  Felix  private  schooner 
1850-51 319 

Is  fitted  out  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  private  subscription — Arrives  at 
Whalefish  Islands,  and  overtakes  the  Advance  and  Resolute — Proceeds  in  company^ 
Esquimaux  reports  of  the  destruction  of  Franklin's  ships,  and  murder  of  the  cre>\»— 
Proved  by  investigation  to  be  devoid  of  ibundation — Letter  of  Sir  John  Ross  to  the 
Secretary  of  the  Admiralty. 

American  Govemment  Searching  Expedition  in  the  United  States 
ships  Advance  and  Rescue,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  De 
Haven,  1850-51 325 

Lady  Franklin's  appeal  to  the  American  nation — Mr.  Clayton's  reply— Second  letter 
of  Lady  Franklin  to  the  President — Suggestions  of  Lieutenant  S.  Osliorn,  R.  N. — De- 
bate in  Congress — Resolutions  agreed  to — Munificence  of  Mr.  H.  Grinnell— Ships  fitted 
out  and  dispatched- Names  of  officers  employed — Dispatches  from  the  commander. 

Remarkable  Voyage  of  the  private  ship  Prince  Albert,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Forsyth,  R.  N.,  to  Regent  Inlet  and  back, 
1850 348 

Fitted  out  by  Lady  Franklin  and  by  private  subscription — Reasons  for  the  expedition 
—Officers  and  crew — Discover  traces  of  Franklin — Fall  in  with  otlier  ships — Visit! 
Begent  Inlet — Is  forced  to  return  home— Remarks  on  this  voyage 


Jill 


CONTENTS 


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The  American  Grinnell  Ex])eflition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, in  the  Advance  and  Jlescue,  under  the  command  of  Lieu- 
tenant E.  De  Haven,  in  the  years  1850-51 361 

Officers  of  tlio  Expedition— Prosrross  of  tlie  voyaice— First  encounter  with  an  Ice- 
berjf— Acres  of  tirolien  ic«— Landintr  at  Wlialo  Islnnd— I'rocnro  winter  clotliing  and 
Biipplies  at  a  Daiiisli  settlement— Perilous  position  of  tlie  liesciio — Polar  bears — 
0|)»!ii  sea— Joined  bv  llio  I'rince  Albert,  Uoyal  navy— Crimson  ClilTs— Tremendous 
gale-Articles  belongins,'  to  Franklin's  8lii|)S— 'lliriio  t;raves  of  Franklin's  men — 
Other  traces  of  the  inissiny  navim'ator- Approucli  of  the  Arctic  winter- Battling 
witli  ice — Extreme  perils — Five  months  in  tlje  ice— Arctic  amusements  and  em- 
ployments—Arctic nifiht — Ke-api)earanco  of  tlio  sun — Liberation  of  the  ice-bound 
vessels— Farther  Exi)lorations— Declile  to  return— Arrival  at  the  Navy  yard— Effects 
of  tlie  Expedition— WlNTLlt  IN  THE  AKCTIG  OCEAN  by  Lieutenant  Do  Haven. 

A  Summer  Search  for  Sir  John  Franklin,  with  a  Peep  into  the 
Polar  Basin,  by  Commander  E.  A.  Ingleiield,  ia  the  Scrow- 
steamer  Isabel,  in  1852 411 

First  glimpse  of  Greenland— Singular  accident— Examination  of  shores  of  Wol- 
Btenholme  Sound— Nortlmmberland  Island — Point  Frederick  VII. — Ai)pearance  of 
the  ice — Visits  tlie  graves  of  Franklin's  men  at  Beecliey  Island — IJilliculties  of  ad- 
vancing— Loss  of  spars — The  return  of  the  Isabel. 

Eighteen  Months  in  the  Polar  Regions  in  search  of  Sir  John 
Franklin's  Expedition,  in  the  years  1850-51,  by  Lieutenant 
Sherard  Osborii,  Avith  tlie  Steam-vessels  Pioneer  and  Intrepid  421 

Dangers  of  anchoring  to  an  ice-berg — Entangled  in  the  pack — Enters  Baffin's  Bay — 
Lancaster  Sound — Philosophy  of  ice-bergs — Uegent's  Inlet — Visit  to  Beecliey  Island 
— Thorough  search  of  that  island — Visits  Barlow's  Inlet — Passing  the  winter  in  the 
ships — Occui)ations—Exiieditions  organized  in  the  spring — Visit  to  Jones'  Sound — 
Description  of  the  Esquimaux  races— Beturn  homo. 

Arctic  Searching  Expedition ;  a  Journal  of  a  Boat  voyage 
through  Rupert's  Land  and  the  Arctic  Sea,  in  search  of  Sir 
John  Franklin,  by  Sir  John  Ricliardson,  in  1851 438 

Start  from  Montreal — Designated  route — Intercourse  with  the  Esquimaux — Sketch 
of  the  Esquimaux — Kussell  Inlet— Ilarrowbv  Bay— Oapo  Bathurst — Cape  Kendall 
— Coppermine  River — Kendall  liiver — The  Esquimaux  of  this  region — Their  religion 
— Their  different  races  and  tribes — The  Kutchins — Fort  Coufldence — Basil  Hall  Bay 
— Bear  Lake — Keturn. 

The  Second  Voyage  of  the  Prince  Albert  in  search  of  Sir  John 
Franklin,  under  the  command  of  William  Kennedy,  in  1853  461 

Origin  of  this  expedition — Tlio  outfit  and  instructions — Melville  Bay — Prince  Re- 
gent's Inlet — Port  Leopold — Winter  quarters  at  Wlialer's  Point — Fury  Beach — Inci- 
de:  is  during  the  winter — Cape  Garry — Batty  Bay — lieturn  to  England. 

Arctic  Explorations ;  the  Secoiul  Grinnell  Expedition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  in  1853,  '51,  55,  by  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  in 
the  brig  Advance 473 

Outfit  and  purpose  of  the  expedition— Visit  to  Danish  settlements  of  Greenland- 
Pass  Crimson  Cliffs— Smitli's  Sound— Discovery  of  the  Great  Humboldt  Glacier — 
Butter  Island — Establishment  of  provision  depots — Life  on  board  the  brig — Incidents 
of  the  first  winter  in  the  ice — Perilous  expedition — Further  examination  of  Hum- 
boldt Glacier— West  Land— Robert  Morris  Bay— Bear-Hglit— Peep  into  the  Polar 
Basin— View  of  nature  five  hundred  miles  from  the  North  Pole— Littleton  Island — 
Second  winter  in  tlio  ice— Ojierations  in  tiie  spring — Exploration  of  Kennedy  Chan- 
nel— Third  view  of  Humboldt  Glacier — Bear  hunts — Preparations  for  return — De- 
parture from  Che  brig— Conveyance  of  the  sick— Anoatok— Sledge  Party— Perilous 
adventure— Death  of  Christian  Ohlsun— North  Baffin's  Bay— The  embarkation— Dif- 


CONTENTS 


xni 


flciilt  navlcrixtlon— Mnrcli!"«on  Cliannol— Nnrrow  c?fnpp — NVoary  Mftii'?  Fwost— 3f(»r- 
dedtnce-l'niw  York — NVniit  of  pnivi.xioii^ — ^I'liI  liiint— C'ci-t  of  (irocnlniKl— 'I'lio 
llaviik— l)iso()iira!.rin<i  news— Arrival  nt  I'lxTiiavlck — Captain  llartstcne's  I'xnoill- 
tioh  in  the  Arctic  and  tin-  HcU-asi'— Advi'Mtiiri'sot'lliut  expodltion— licturn  to  Upor- 
navick  and  discovery  of  IJr.  Kaue's  party— lieturn  to  New  York. 


08  of  Wol- 
loarance  of 
Hies  of  ad- 


inter  iu  tlie 


I 


THE  PROGRESS 


OF 


AECTIC   DISCOVERY 

IN  THE 

NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


If  we  examine  a  map  of  Northern,  or  Arctic,  Amer- 
ica, showing  what  was  known  of  the  countries  around 
the  North  Pole  in  the  commencement  of  the  present 
century,  we  shall  find  that  all  within  the  Arctic  circle 
was  a  complete  blank.  Mr.  Hearne  had,  indeed,  seen 
the  Arctic  Sea  in  the  year  1771 ;  and  Mr.  Mackenzie  had 
traced  the  river  which  now  bears  his  name  to  its  junc- 
tion with  the  sea ;  but  not  a  single  line  of  the  coast 
from  Icy  Cape  to  Baffin's  Bay  was  known.  The  east- 
ern and  western  shores  of  Greenland,  to  about  75°  lat- 
itude, were  tolerably  well  defined,  ftom.  the  visits  of 
whaling  vessels  ;  Hudson's  Bay  and  Strait  were  par- 
tially known;  but  Baffin's  Bay,  according  to  the  state- 
ment of  Mr.  Baffin,  in  1616,  was  bounded  by  land  on 
the  west,  running  parallel  with  the  90th  meridian  of 
longitude,  or  across  what  is  now  known  to  us  as  Bar- 
row's Strait,  and  probably  this  relation  led  to  the  sub- 
sequently formed  hasty  opinion  of  Captain  Sir  John 
Ross,  as  to  his  visionary  Croker  Mountains,  of  which 
I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  hereafter. 

As  early  as  the  year  1527,  the  idea  of  a  passage  to 
tlie  East  Indies  by  the  North  Pole  was  suggested  by  a 


26 


ri{0GRES3    OF    AllCTIC    DISCUVKIiY'. 


Bristol  merchant  to  ircnry  YIII.,  but  no  voyac^c  Rcoma 
to  liave  been  undertaken  tor  the  purpose  ofnavifjjating 
the  Polar  seas,  till  the  conimencenient  of  the  fullovving 
century,  when  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  at  the  ex- 
pense of  certain  mercnants  of  London.  To  this  attein])t 
several  others  succeeded  at  different  periods,  and  all 
of  them  were  projected  and  carried  into  execution  by 
l)rivate  individuals.  The  adventurers  did  not  indeed 
accomplish  the  object  tliey  exclusively  sought,  that  of 
reaching  India  by  a  nearer  route  than  doubling  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  but  though  they  failed  in  tliat 
respect,  the  fortitude,  perseverance,  and  skill  which 
they  manifested,  exhibited  the  most  irrefragable  proofs 
of  the  early  existence  of  that  superiority  in  naval  af- 
fairs, which  has  elevated  this  country  to  her  present 
eminence  among  the  nations  of  Europe. 

At  length,  after  the  lapse  of  above  a  century  and  a 
half,  this  interesting  question  became  an  object  of 
lioyal  patronage,  and  the  expedition  which  was  com- 
manded by  Captain  Phipps  (afterward  Lord  Mulgrave,) 
in  1773,  was  fitted  out  at  the  charge  of  Government. 
The  first  proposer  of  this  voyage  was  the  Hon.  Daines 
Barrington,  F.  R.  S.,  who,  with  indefatigable  assiduity, 
began  to  collect  every  fact  tending  to  establish  the 
practicability  of  circumnavigating  the  Pole,  and  as  he 
accumulated  his  materials,  he  read  them  to  the  Poyal 
Society,  who,  in  consequence  of  these  representations, 
made  that  application  to  Loi*d  Sandwich,  then  First 
Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  which  led  to  the  appointment 
of  this  first  official  voyage.  Captain  Phipps,  however, 
found  it  imjoossible  to  penetrate  the  wall  of  ice  which 
extended  for  many  degrees  between  the  latitude  of  80° 
and  81°,  to  the  north  of  Spitzbergen.  His  vessels  were 
the  Racehorse  and  Carcass ;  Captain  Lutwidge  being 
his  second  in  command,  in  the  latter  vessel,  and  hav- 
ing with  him,  then  a  mere  boy,  Nelson,  the  future 
hero  of  England. 

From  the  year  1648,  when  the  famous  Russian  navi- 
gator, Senor  Deshnew,  penetrated  from  the  river 
Kolyma  through  the  Polar  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the 


INTRODUCriUN. 


ST 


ac^c  pcoins 
isiviguting 
5  following 
at  the  ex- 
ii8atteiTi])t 
3s,  and  all 
joution  by 
lot  indeed 
it,  that  of 
ibling  the 
}d  in  that 
vill  which 
ble  proofs 
naval  af- 
er  present 

ury  and  a 

object  of 

was  com- 

Inlgrave,) 

^ernment. 

n.  Dainea 

assiduity, 

blish  the 

ind  as  he 

he  Royal 

ntations, 

len  First 

ointment 

lowever, 

;e  which 

le  of  80° 

jels  were 

je  being 

tnd  hav- 

future 

m  navi- 

ie   river 

;an,  the 


Iliissians  have  been  as  arduous  in  their  attempts  todib- 
cover  a  northeast  passage  to  the  north  of  Capo  Shcl- 
atskoi,  as  the  English  have  been  to  bail  to  the  north- 
west of  the  American  continent,  through  Battin's  Bay 
and  Lancaster  Sound.  On  the  side  of  the  Pacitic, 
many  efforts,  have,  within  the  last  century,  been  made 
to  further  this  object.  In  1741,  the  celebrated  Captain 
Behring  discovered  the  straits  which  bear  his  name,  as 
we  are  informed  by  Muller,  the  chronicler  of  Russian 
discoveries,  and  several  subsequent  commanders  of 
that  nation  seconded  his  endeavors  to  penetrate  from 
the  American  continent  to  the  northeast.  From  the 
period  when  Deshnew  sailed  on  his  expedition,  to  the 
year  1704:,  when  Admiral  Tchitschagof,  an  indefatiga- 
ble and  active  oflficer,  endeavored  to  force  a  passage 
round  Spitzbergcn,  (wliich,  although  he  attempted  with 
a  resolution  and  skill  which  would  fall  to  the  lot  of 
few,  he  was  unable  to  effect,)  and  thence  to  the  present 
times,  including  the  arduous  etibrts  of  Captain  Billings 
and  Vancouver,  and  the  more  recent  one  of  M.  Von 
Wrangell,  the  Russians  have  been  untiring  in  theii'  at- 
ternpts  to  discover  a  passage  eastward,  to  the  north 
of  Cfape  Taimurand  Cape  Shelatskoi.  And  certainly, 
if  skill,  perseverance,  and  courage,  could  have  opened 
this  passage,  it  would  have  been  accomplished. 

Soon  after  the  general  peace  of  Euro4)e,  wlien  war's 
alarms  had  given  way  to  the  high  pursuits  of  science, 
the  government  recommenced  the  long-suspended 
work  of  prosecuting  discoveries  within  the  Arctic  circle. 

An  expedition  was  dispatched  under  the  command 
of  Sir  John  Ross,  in  order  to  explore  the  scene  of  the 
former  labors  of  Frobisher  and  Baffin.  Still  haunted 
with  the  golden  dreams  of  a  northwest  passage,  which 
Barrington  and  Beaufoy  had  in  the  last  age  so  enthu- 
siastically advocated,  our  nautical  adventurers  by  no 
means  relinquished  the  long-cherished  chimera. 

It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  the  testimony  of 
Parry  and  Franklin  pass  for  much  on  the  other  side 
of  the  question.  Both  these  officers,  whose  researches 
in  the  cause  of  scientific  discovery  entitle  then  to  very 


m 

i:  ■! 


i  I 


\  I 


1  I 


28 


PROORE88    OF    AUCTIC    DI8COVKRY. 


liij^h  respect,  have  declared  it  as  their  opinion  that 
encli  a  })aHHa<i;e  does  not  exist  to  the  nortii  of  the  75th 
defijree  of  latitude. 

Captain  Parry,  in  the  concludinjif  remarks  of  his  first 
voyaj^e,  (vol.  ii.  p.  241,)  says — *'  Of  the  existence  of  a 
northwest  passage  to  the  Pacific,  it  is  now  scarcely 
possible  to  doubt,  and  from  the  success  which  attended 
our  efforts  in  1811),  after  ])aHsing  through  Sir  James 
Lancaster's  Sound,  we  were  not  unreasonable  in  anti- 
cipating its  conndete  accomplislniient,"  ttc.  And 
Franklin,  in  the  eleventh  chai)ter  of  his  work,  is  of  the 
same  opinion,  as  to  the  practicability  of  such  a  passage 

Put  in  no  subsequent  attemj)t,  either  by  themselves 
or  others,  has  this  long  sought  desideratum  been  ac- 
complished ;  impediments  and  barriers  seem  as  thickly 
thrown  in  its  way  as  ever.* 

An  expedition  was  at  length  undertaken  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  reaching  the  North  Pole,  with  a  view  to 
the  ascertainment  of  ])hilosophical  questions.  It  was 
planned  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Sir  Edward 
Parry,  and  here  first  the  elucidation  of  phenomena 
connected  with  this  imaginary  axis  of  onr  planet 
formed  the  primary  object  of  investigation. 

My  space  and  ])nrpose  in  this  work  will  not  permit 
me  to  go  into  detail  by  examining  what  Barrow  justly 
terms  "  those  t)rilliant  periods  of  early  English  enter- 
prise, so  conspicuously  displayed  in  every  quarter  of 
the  globe,  but  in  none,  probably,  to  greater  advantage 
than  in  those  bold  and  persevering  efibrts  to  pierce 
through  frozen  seas,  in  their  little  slender  barks,  of  the 
most  miserable  description,  ill  provided  with  the  means 
either  of  comfort  or  safety,  without  charts  or  instru- 
ments, or  any  previous  knowledge  of  the  cold  and  in- 
hospitable region  tlirough  which  they  had  to  force  and 
to  feel  their  way ;  their  vessels  oft  beset  amidst  end- 
less fields  of  ice,  and  threatened  to  be  overwhelmed 
with  instant  destruction  from  the  rapid  whirling  and 
bursting  of  those  huge  floating  masses,  known  by  the 

*  rVilonial  Magasino,  ^'ol  ziii,  p.  340 


in  ion  that 
)t'  tlio  75th 

iof  hirt  fii'Ht 
stence  ot'  a 
w  Bcurcely 
h  iitteiulcti 
Sir  Jaincfl 
bio  in  tiuti- 
tfcc.  And 
rk,  is  of  tho 

I  a  [)as8U<;o 
themselves 
ni  been  ac- 

II  as  thickly 

for  the  sole 
li  a  view  to 
ns.  It  was 
Sir  Edward 
)henoniena 


our 


planet 


not  permit 
rrow  justly 
yish  enter- 
quarter  of 
advantage 
Is  to  pierce 
rks,  of  the 
the  means 
or  instru- 
>ld  and  in- 
force  and 
Imidst  end- 
rwhelmed 
irling  and 
•wn  by  the 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 


2» 


name  <>f  iceborn^s.  Yet  so  powerfully  infused  into  the 
miridt»  of  Hritons  was  the  spirit  of  enterj)ri8e,  that 
some  of  tho  ablest,  tho  most  learned,  and  most  respect- 
able men  of  the  times,  iiot  only  lent  their  countenance 
and  support  to  expeditions  titled  out  for  the  discovery 
of  new  lands,  but  strove  ea<;erly,  in  their  own  persons, 
to  share  in  the  glory  and  the  danger  of  every  daring 
adventure." 

To  the  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  F.  K.  S.,  for  so  long  a 
period  secretary  of  the  Adiniralty,  and  who,  in  early 
life,  himself  visited  the  S[)itzbergen  seas,  as  high  as 
the  80th  parallel,  we  are  mainly  indebted  for  the  ad- 
vocacy and  promotion  of  the  several  expeditions,  and 
the  investigations  and  Inquiries  set  on  foot  in  the  pres- 
ent century,  and  to  the  voyages  which  have  been  nith- 
erto  so  successfully  carried  out  as  regards  the  interests 
of  8»Mence  and  our  knowledge  of  the  Polar  regions. 

Although  it  is  absurd  to  impute  tlie  direct  responsi- 
bility for  these  expeditions  to  any  other  quarter  than 
the  several  administrations  during  which  they  were 
undertaken,  there  can  be  no  question  but  that  these 
enterprises  originated  in  Sir  John  Barrow's  able  and 
zealous  exhibition,  to  our  naval  authorities,  of  the 
several  facts  and  arguments  upon  which  they  might 
best  be  justified  and  prosecuted  as  national  objects. 
The  general  anxiety  now  prevailing  respecting  the  fate 
of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  gallant  companions, 
throws  at  this  moment  somewhat  of  a  gloom  on  the 
subject,  but  it  ought  to  be  remembered  that,  up  to  the 
present  period,  our  successive  Polar  voyages  have, 
without  exception,  given  occupation  to  the  energies 
and  gjillantry  of  British  seamen,  and  have  extended 
the  realms  of  magnetic  and  general  science,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  lives  and  money  quite  insignificant,  compared 
with  the  ordinary  dangers  and  casualties  of  such  expe- 
ditions, and  that  it  must  be  a  very  narrow  spirit  and 
view  of  the  subject  which  can  raise  the  cry  of  ^*Cui 
bono,^^  and  counsel  us  to  relinquish  ,the  honor  and  peril 
of  such  enterprises  to  ^Russia  aud  tJie  United  States  oi 
America ! 


"'"wl 


'  I 


i  li 


30 


PROOIIKSS   OF    ARCTIC    DTSCOVEUY. 


It  can  scarcely  be  deemed  ont  of  place  to  give  here 
a  sliort  notice  of  the  literary  labors  of  this  excellent 
and  talented  man,  as  I  am  not  aware  that  such  an  out- 
line has  appeared  before. 

Sir  John  Ban  ow  was  one  of  the  chief  writers  for  the 
Quarterly  Review,  and  his  articles  in  that  journal 
amount  to  nearly  200  in  number,  forming,  v/hen  bound 
up,  twelve  separate  volumes.  All  those  relating  to 
the  Arctic  Exjieditions,  &c.,  which  created  the  great- 
est interest  at  the  period  they  were  published,  were 
from  his  pen,  and  consist  chiefly  of  the  following  pa- 
pers, commencing  from  the  18th  volume; — On  Polar 
Ice;  On  Behring's  Straits  and  the  Polar  Basin ;  On 
Ross's  Voyage  to  Ballin's  Bay  ;  On  Parry's  First  Voy- 
age ;  Kotzebue's  Voyage ;  Franklin's  First  Expedition  ; 
Parry's  Second  and  Third  Voyages,  and  Attempt  to 
Reach  the  Pole  ;  Franklin's  Second  Expedition  ;  Lyon's 
Voyage  to  Repulse  Bay ;  Back's  Arctic  Laud  Expe- 
dition, and  his  Voyage  of  the  Terror.  Besides  these 
he  published  "  A  Chronological  History  of  Voyages 
to  the  Arctic  Seas,"  and  afterward  a  second  volume, 
"On  the  Voyages  of  Discovery  and  Research  within 
the  Arctic  Regions." 

He  also  wrote  lives  of  Lord  Macartney,  2  vols.  4to; 
of  Lord  Anson  and  Howe,  each  1  vol.  8vo ;  of  Peter 
the  Great;  and  an  Account  of  the  Mutiny  of  the 
Bounty,  (in  the  "Family  L  '  rary ; ")  "Travels  in 
Southern  Africa,"  2  vols,  4to;  and  "Travels  in 
China  aud  Cochin  China,"  each  1  vol.  4to. 

In  the  "Encyclopedia  Britannica"  are  ten  or 
twelve  of  his  articles,  and  he  wrote  one  in  the  Edin- 
burgh Review  by  special  request. 

In  addition  to  these  Sir  John  Barrow  prepared  for 
the  press  innumerable  MSS.  of  travelers  in  all  parts 
of  the  globe,  the  study  of  geography  being  his  great 
delight,  as  is  evidenced  by  his  having  founded  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London,  which  now 
holds  so  high  and  influential  a  position  in  the  learned 
and  scientific  world,  and  has  advanced  so  materially 
the  progress  of  discovery  and  research  in  all  parts  of 


>5 


INTRODUCTION. 


tl 


■I 


the  j?1obe.  Lastly,  Sir  Joliri  Barrow,  not  Ions;  before 
his  death,  published  his  own  autobiography,  iu  whicti 
he  records  the  labors,  the  toil,  and  adventure,  of  a  lou^ 
and  honorable  public  life. 

Sir  John  Barrow  has  described,  with  voluminous  ca\« 
and  minute  research,  the  arduous  services  of  all  the 
chief  Arctic  voyagers  by  sea  and  land,  and  to  his  voi 
ume  I  must  refer  those  who  wish  to  obtain  more  exten 
sive  details  and  particulars  of  the  voyages  of  preceding* 
centuries.  lie  has  also  graphically  set  forth,  to  use  his 
own  words,  "  their  several  characters  and  conduct,  so 
uniformly  displayed  in  their  unflinching  perseverance 
in  difficulties  of  no  ordinary  description,  their  patient 
endurance  of  extreme  suft'ering,  borne  without  mur- 
muring, and  with  an  equanimity  and  fortitude  of  mind 
under  the  most  appalling  distress,  rarely,  if  ever, 
equaled,  and  such  as  could  only  be  supported  by  a 
superio  dejcree  of  moral  courage  and  resignation  to 
the  Divine  will  —  displaying  virtues  like  those  of  no 
ordinary  caste,  and  such  as  will  not  fail  to  excite  the 
sympathy,  and  challenge  the  admiration  of  every  right- 
feeling  reader." 

Hakluyt,  in  his  "  Chronicle  of  Voyages,"  justly  ob- 
serves, that  we  should  use  much  care  in  preserving  the 
memories  of  the  worthy  acts  of  our  nation. 

The  different  sea  voyages  and  land  journeys  of  the 
present  century  toward  the  North  Pole  have  redounded 
to  the  honor  of  our  country,  as  well  as  reflected  credit 
on  the  cli  M'acters  and  reputation  of  the  officers  engaged 
in  them ;  and  it  is  to  these  I  confine  my  observations. 

The  progress  of  discovery  in  the  Arctic  regions  has 
been  slow  but  progressive,  and  much  still  within  the 
limits  of  practical  navigation  remains  yet  unexplored. 
As  Englishmen,  we  must  naturally  wish  that  discov- 
eries which  were  first  attempted  by  the  adventurous 
spirit  and  maritime  skill  of  our  countrymen,  should  be 
linallv  fiehieved  by  the  same  means. 

"Wil  it  not,"  says  the  worthy 'preacher,'  Hakluyt, 
"  in  all  posteritie  be  as  great  a  renown  vnto  our  En- 
glish natione,  to  have  beene  the  first  discouerers  of  a 


I 


32 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


\',\ 


sea  Ijeyond  the  North  Cape,  (nener  certainely  knowen 
before,)  and  of  a  conuenient  passage  into  the  huge  em- 
pire of  Russia  by  the  Baie  of  St.  Nicholas  and  of  the 
Riuer  of  Daina,  as  for  the  Portugales,  to  have  found 
a  sea  beyond  the  Cape  of  Buona  Esperanza,  and  so 
consequently  a  passage  by  sea  into  the  East  Indies  ? " 

I  cordially  agree  with  the  Quarterly  Review,  that 
"  neither  the  country  nor  the  naval  service  will  ever 
believe  they  have  any  cause  to  regret  voyages  which, 
in  the  eyes  of  foreigners  and  posterity,  must  confer 
lasting  honor  upon  both." 

The  cost  of  these  voyages  has  not  been  great,  while 
the  consequences  will  be  permanent ;  for  it  has  been 
well  remarked,  by  a  late  writer,  that  "the  record  of 
enterprising  hardihood,  physical  endurance,  and  steady 
perseverance,  displayed  in  overcoming  elements  the 
most  adverse,  will  long  remain  among  the  worthiest 
memorials  of  human  enterprise." 

"  How  shall  I  admire,"  says  Purchas,  "  your  heroic 
courage,  ye  marine  worthies,  beyond  all  names  of 
worthiness!  that  neyther  dread  so  long  eyther  the 
presence  or  absence  of  the  sunne  ;  nor  those  foggy 
mysts,  tempestuous  winds,  cold  blasts,  snowe  and 
hayle  in  the  ayre ;  nor  the  unequall  seas,  which  might 
amaze  the  hearer,  and  amate  the  beholder,  when  the 
Tritons  and  Neptune's  selfe  would  quake  with  chilling 
feare  to  behold  such  monstrous  icie  Hands,  renting 
themselves  with  terror  of  their  own  massines,  and  dis- 
dayning  otherwise  both  the  sea's  sovereigntie  and  the 
sunne's  hottest  violence,  mustering  themselves  in  those 
watery  plaines  where  they  hold  a  continual  civill 
warre,  and  rushing  one  upon  another,  make  windes 
and  waves  give  backe  ;  seeming  to  rent  the  eares  of 
others,  while  they  rent  themselves  with  crashing  and 
B})litting  their  congealed  armors." 

So  thickly  are  the  Polar  seas  of  the  northern  hemi- 
sphere clustered  with  lands,  that  the  long  winter  months 
serve  to  accumulate  filed  ice  to  a  ])rodigious  extent,  S(? 
as  to  foi-m  an  almost  impenetrable  barrier  of  hypei 
borean  frost — 


INTRODUCTION. 


83 


lely  knowen 
be  huge  em- 
5  and  of  the 
have  found 
nza,  and  so 
5t  Indies?" 
leview,  that 
36  will  ever 
ages  which, 
must  confer 

sjreat,  wliile 
it  has  been 
3  record  of 
,  and  steady 
ements  the 
le  worthiest 

your  heroic 

names  of 

eyther   the 

hose  foggy 

snowe   and 

hich  might 

L  when  the 

lith  chilling 

Is,  renting 

5S,  and  dis- 

:ie  and  the 

'^es  in  those 

lual   civil] 

Ite  windes 

le  eares  of 

ishing  and 

lern  hemi- 
ter  months 
extent,  so 
I  of  hyper 


■1 
3 


"  A  crystal  pavement  by  the  breath  of  Heaven 
Cenieulea  linn." 

Although  there  are  now  no  new  continents  left  to 
discover,  our  intrepid  British  adventurers  are  but  too 
eager  to  achieve  the  bubble  reputation,  to  hand  down 
their  names  to  future  ages  for  patient  endurance,  zeal, 
and  enterprise,  by  explorations  of  ihe  hidden  mys- 
teries of — 

"  the  frigid  zone, 
"Where,  for  relentless  months,  continual  ni^ht 
Holds  o'er  the  glittering  waste  her  starry  light ;  " 

by  undergoing  perils,  and  enduring  privations  and 
dangers  which  the  mind,  in  its  reflective  moments, 
shudders  to  contemplate. 

It  is  fair  to  conjecture  that,  so  intense  is  the  cold, 
aud  so  limited  the  summer,  and  consequently  so  short 
the  time  allowed  lor  a  transit  within  the  Arctic  circle, 
from  Baffin's  Bay  to  Behring's  Straits,  that  a  passage, 
even  if  discovered,  will  never  be  of  any  use  as  a  chan- 
nel. It  is  not  likely  that  these  expeditions  would  ever 
have  been  persevered  in  with  so  much  obstinacy,  had 
the  prospects  now  opening  on  the  world  of  more  prac- 
ticable connections  with  the  East  been  known  forty 
years  ago.  Hereafter,  when  the  sacred  demands  of 
humanity  have  been  answered^  very  little  more  will 
be  heard  about  the  northwest  passage  to  Asia ;  which, 
if  ever  found,  must  be  always  hazardous  and  pro- 
tracted, when  a  short  and  quick  one  can  be  accom- 
plished by  railroads  through  America,  or  canals  across 
the  Isthmus. 

A  thorough  knowledge  of  the  relative  boundaries  of 
land  and  ocean  on  this  our  globe  has,  in  all  ages  and 
by  all  countries,  been  considered  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant desiderata,  and  one  of  the  chief  features  of 
po])ular  information. 

But  to  no  country  is  this  knowledge  of  such  prac- 
tical utility  and  of  such  essential  importance,  as  to  a 
maritime  nation  like  Great  Britain,  whose  mercantile 
marine  visits  every  port,  whose  insular  position  ren- 
ders her  completely  dependent  upon  distant  quarters 


1] 


84 


PR0GBES8   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


for  half  the  necessary  supplies,  wlietlier  of  food  or  lux- 
ury, which  her  native  population  consume,  or  which 
the  arts  and  manufactures,  of  which  she  is  the  empo- 


rium, require 


With  a  vast  and  yearly  increasing  dominion,  cover- 
ing almost  every  region  of  the  habitable  globe,  —  the 
chart  of  our  colonies  being  a  chart  of  the  world  in  out- 
line, for  we  sweep  the  globe  and  touch  every  shore,  — 
it  becomes  necessary  tliat  we  should  keep  pace  witli 
the  progress  of  cc  onization,  by  enlarging,  wherever 
possible,  our  maritime  discoveries,  completing  and  veri- 
fying our  nautical  surveys,  improving  our  meteorologi- 
cal researches,  opening  up  new  and  speedier  perodical 
pathways  over  the  oceans  which  were  formerly  trav- 
ersed with  so  much  danger,  doubt,  and  difficulty,  and 
maintaining  our  superiority  as  the  greatest  of  maritime 
nations,  by  sustaining  that  high  and  distinguished  rank 
for  naval  eminence  which  has  ever  attached  to  the 
British  name. 

The  arduous  achievements,  however,  of  our  nautical 
discoverers  have  seldom  been  appreciated  or  rewarded 
as  they  deserved.  We  load  our  naval  and  military 
heroes  —  the  men  who  guard  our  wooden  walls  and 
successfully  fight  our  battles  —  with  titles  and  pen- 
sions ;  we  heap  upon  these,  and  deservedly  so,  princely 
remuneration  and  a.l  manner  of  distinctions;  but  for 
the  heroes  whose  patient  toil  and  protracted  endurance 
far  surpass  the  turmoil  of  war,  who  peril  their  lives  in 
the  cause  of  scie  ice,  many  of  whom  fall  victims  to 
pestilential  climaoes,  famine,  and  the  host  of  dangers 
which  environ  the  voyager  and  traveler  in  unexplored 
lands  and  unknown  seas,  we  have  only  a  place  in  the 
niche  of  fame. 

What  honors  did  Ens^land,  as  a  maritime  nation,  con- 
fer on  Cook,  tJie  foremost  of  her  naval  heroes,  —  a  man 
whose  life  was  sacrificed  for  his  country  ?  His  widow 
had  an  annuity  of  200^.,  and  his  surviving  children 
25^.  each  per  annum.  And  this  is  tlie  reward  paid  to 
the  most  eminent  of  our  naval  discoverers,  before 
whom  Cabot,  Drake,  Frobisher,  Magellan,  Anson,  and 


I 


\' 


INTRODUCTION. 


35 


food  or  Inx- 
le,  or  which 
s  the  empo- 

nion,  cover- 
^lobe,  —  the 
i^orld  in  out- 
irv  shore,  — 
3  pace  witli 
2^,  wherever 
ing  and  veri- 
neteorologi- 
er  perodical 
•merly  trav- 
fficiiltj,  and 
of  maritime 
uished  rank 
ihed  to  the 

)ur  nautical 

)r  rewarded 

d  military 

walls  and 

and   pen- 

0,  princely 

IS ;  but  for 

endurance 

sir  lives  in 

Ivictims  to 

)f  dangers 

mexplored 

|ace  in  the 

ition,  con- 

—  a  man 

"is  widow 

children 

I'd  paid  to 

5,  before 

ison»  and 


the  arctic  adventurers,  Hudson  and  Baffin,  —  although 
all  eminent  for  their  discoveries  and  the  important 
services  they  rendered  to  the  cause  of  nautical  sci- 
Quce^  —  sink  into  insignificance  !  If  we  glance  at  the 
results  of  Cook's  voyages  we  find  that  to  him  we  are 
indebted  for  the  innumerable  discoveries  of  islands  and 
colonies  planted  in  the  Pacific  ;  that  he  determined 
the  conformation,  and  surveyed  the  numerous  bays 
and  inlets,  of  New  Holland ;  established  the  geogra- 
phical position  of  the  northwestern  shores  of  America ; 
ascertained  the  trending  of  the  ice  and  frozen  shores  to 
the  north  of  Behring's  Straits;  approached  nearer  the 
South  Pole,  and  made  more  discoveries  in  the  Austra- 
lian regions,  than  .ill  the  navigators  who  had  preceded 
him.  On  the  very  shores  of  their  vast  empire,  at  the 
extremity  of  Kamtschatka,  his  active  genius  first 
taught  the  Russians  to  examine  the  devious  trendinga 
of  the  lands  which  border  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Arctic  circle.  He  explored  both 
the  eastern  and  western  coasts  above  Behring's  Straits 
to  so  high  a  latitude  as  to  decide,  beyond  doubt,  the 
question  as  to  the  existence  of  a  passage  round  the  two 
continents.  He  showed  the  Russians  how  to  navigate 
the  dangerous  seas  between  the  old  and  the  new 
world;  for,  as  Coxe  has  remarked,  "before  his  time, 
every  thhig  was  uncertain  and  confused,  and  though 
they  had  undoubtedly  reached  the  continent  of  Amer- 
ica, yet  they  had  not  ascertained  the  line  of  coast,  nor 
the  separation  or  vicinity  of  the  two  continents  of  Asia 
and  America."  Coxe,  certainly,  does  no  more  than 
justice  to  his  illustrious  countryman  when  he  adds, 
"  the  solution  of  this  important  problem  was  reserved 
for  our  great  navigator,  and  every  Englishman  must 
exult  that  the  discoveries  of  Cook  were  extended  fur- 
ther in  a  single  expedition,  and  at  the  distance  of  half 
the  globe,  than  the  Russians  accomplished  in  a  long 
series  of  years,  and  in  a  region  contiguous  to  their  own 
empire." 

Look  at  Weddell,  again,  a  private  trader  in  seal- 
ekius,  who,  in  a  frail  bark  of  160  tons,  made  important 
B 


4 

Hi 


I     J 

if] 
1^ 


36 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


I  ■! 


discoveries  in  the  Antarctic  circle,  and  a  voyage  of 
greater  length  and  peril,  through  a  thousand  miles  of 
ice,  than  had  ])reviou.sly  been  performed  by  any  navi- 
gator, paving  the  way  for  the  more  expensively  fitted 
expedition  under  Sir  James  Hoss.  Was  Weddell  re- 
munerated on  a  scale  commensurate  with  his  important 
services  ? 

Haifa  century  ago  the  celebrated  Bruce  of  Kinnaird, 
by  a  series  oi'  soundings  and  observations  taken  in  the 
Ked  Sea,  now  the  great  highway  of  overland  eastern 
traffic,  rendered  its  navigation  more  secure  and  punc- 
tual. How  was  he  rewarded  by  the  then  existing  min- 
istry ? 

Take  a  more  recent  instance  in  the  indefatigable 
energy  of  Lieutenant  Waghorn,  R.  IST.,  the  enterprising 
pioneer  of  the  overland  route  to  India.  What  does  not 
the  commerce,  the  character,  the  reputation,  of  tiiis 
country  owe  to  his  indefatigable  exertions,  in  bringing 
the  metropolis  into  closer  connection  with  our  va^^t  and 
important  Indian  empire?  And  what  was  the  reward 
he  received  for  the  sacrifices  he  made  of  time,  money, 
health  and  life  ?  A  paltry  annuity  to  himself  of  100^., 
and  a  pension  to  his  widow  of  25^.  per  annum  ! 

Is  it  creditable  to  us,  as  the  first  naval  power  of  the 
world,  that  we  should  thus  dole  out  miserable  pittances, 
or  entirely  overlook  the  successful  patriotic  exertions 
and  scientific  enterprises  and  discoveries  of  private 
adventurers,  or  public  commanders  ? 

The  attractions  of  a  summer  voyage  along  the  bays 
and  seas  where  the  sun  shines  for  four  montlis  at  a  time, 
exploring  the  bare  rocks  and  everlasting  ice,  with  no 
companion  but  the  white  bear  or  the  Arctic  fox,  may 
im  all  very  romantic  at  a  distance ;  but  the  mere  thought 
ol  a  winter  residence  there,  frozen  fast  in  some  solid 
ocean,  with  snow  a  dozen  feet  deep,  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  40°  to  50°  below  zero,  and  not  a  glimpse 
of  the  blessed  sun  from  ISTovember  to  February,  is 
enough  to  give  a  chill  to  all  adventurous  notions.  But 
the  ofiicers  and  men  engaged  in  the  searching  expedi- 
tions after  Sir  John  Franklin  have  calmly  weighed  all 


FIRST   VOYAGE   OF  CAPTAIN   ROSS. 


37 


voyac^e  of 
id  miles  of 
Y  any  iiavi- 
ively  litted 
V"eddell  re- 
j  important 

f  Kirmaird, 
ike II  in  the 
nd  eastern 
and  pimc- 
isting  min- 


iefatigable 
titerprising 
at  does  not 
on,  of  til  is 
n  bringing 
ir  vast  and 
lie  reward 
e,  money, 
If  of  100^., 
n ! 

er  of  tlie 

pittances, 

exertions 

f  private 

the  bays 
it  a  time, 
L  with  no 
jfox,  may 
thought 
me  solid 
iioineter 
glimpse 
fuarv,  is 
IS,  "But 
expedi- 
:hed  all 


these  difficulties,  and  boldly  gone  forth  to  encounter 
the  perils  and  dangers  of  these  icy  seas  for  tlio  sake  of 
their  noble-  fellow-sailor,  whose  fate  has  been  so  long  a 
painful  mystery  to  the  world. 

It  has  been  truly  observed,  that  "this  is  a  service 
for  which  all  officers,  however  brave  and  intelligent 
they  may  be,  are  not  equally  qualilied ;  it  requires  a 
peculiar  tact,  an  inquisitive  and  persevering  pursuit 
after  details  of  fact,  not  always  interesting,  a  contempt 
of  danger,  and  an  enthusiasm  not  to  be  damped  by 
ordinary  difficulties." 

The  records  which  I  shall  have  to  give  in  these  pages 
of  vc'Vages  and  travels,  unparalleled  in  their  perils, 
their  duration,  and  the  protracted  suiFerings  which 
many  of  them  entailed  on  the  adventurers,  will  bring 
out  in  bold  relief  the  prominent  characters  who  have 
fio-ured  in  Arctic  Discovery,  and  whose  names  will 
descend  to  posterity,  emblazoned  on  the  scroll  of  fame, 
for  their  bravery,  their  patient  endurance,  their  skill, 
and,  above  all,  their  linn  trust  and  reliance  on  that 
Almighty  Being  who,  although  He  may  have  tried 
them  sorely,  has  never  utterly  forsaken  them. 

Capt.  John  Ross's  Voyage,  1818. 

In  1818,  His  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  Regent 
having  signified  his  pleasure  that  an  attempt  should 
be  made  to  find  a  passage  by  sea  between  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  Oceans,  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the 
Admiralty  were  pleased  to  fit  out  four  vessels  to  pro- 
ceed toward  the  North  Pole,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  John  Ross.  No  former  expedition  had  been 
fitted  oi7t  on  so  extensive  a  scale,  or  so  completely 
equipped  in  every  respect  as  this  one.  The  circum- 
stance which  mainly  led  to  the  sending  out  of  these 
vessels,  was  the  o])en  character  of  the  bays  and  seas 
in  those  regions,  it  having  been  observed  ifor  the  pre- 
vious three  years  that  very  unusual  quantities  of  the 
polar  ice  had  floated  down  into  the  Atlantic.     In  the 


W 


Id 


38 


PR00RKS9   OP  AKCrnO   DISCOVERT. 


■i 


)|  (1  > 

f 


I     I 


year  1817,  Sir  Jolin  Barrow  relates  that  the  eastern 
coHBt  of  Greenland,  which  had  been  shut  up  with  ice 
for  four  centuries,  was  fuund  to  be  accessible  from  the 
70th  to  the  80th  degree  of  latitude,  and  the  interme- 
diate sea  between  it  and  Spitzbertren  was  ro  entirely 
open  in  the  latter  parallel,  that  a  Hamburgh  ship  had 
actually  sailed  along  this  track. 

On  the  15th  of  January,  1818,  the  four  ships  were 
put  in  commission  —  the  Isabella,  385  tons,  and  the 
Alexander,  252  tons  —  under  Captain  Ross,  to  proceed 
up  the  middle  of  Davis'  Strait,  to  a  high  northern  lati- 
tude, and  then  to  stretch  across  to  the  westward,  in 
the  hope  of  bt^ing  able  to  pass  the  northern  extremity 
of  America,  and  reach  Behring's  Strait  by  that  route. 
Those  destined  for  the  Polar  sea  were,  the  Dorothea, 
382  tons,  and  the  Trent,  249  tons,  which  were  orderad 
to  proceed  between  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen,  and 
seek  a  passage  through  an  open  Polar  sea,  if  such 
should  be  found  in  that  direction. 

I  shall  take  these  voyages  in  the  order  of  their  pub- 
lication, Ross  having  given  to  the  world  the  account 
of  his  voyage  shortly  after  his  return  in  1819 :  while 
the  narrative  of  the  voyage  of  the  Dorother*,  and  Trent 
was  only  published  in  1843,  by  Captain  Beechey,  who 
served  as  Lieutenant  of  the  Trent,  during  the  voyage. 

The  followinsj  w^ere  the  officers,  &c.,  of  the  ships 
under  Captain  Ross :  — 

Jsahella. 

Captain  —  John  Ross. 

Lieutenant — W.  Robertson. 

Purser  —  W.  Thom. 

Surgeon  —  John  Edwards. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 

Admiralty  Midshipmen  —  A.  M.  Skene  and  James 

Clark  Ross. 
Midshipman  and  Clerk  —  J.  Bushnan. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  B.  Lewis,  master;  T.  "Wilcox, 

mate. 
Captain  (now  Colonel)  Sabine,  R.  A. 


;ry. 


fitjst  voyaoi:  of  captain  koss. 


39 


t  tlie  eastern 
t  up  with  ice 
ible  iVoiii  the 
the  internie- 
as  :o  entirely 
irgh  ship  had 

ir  ships  were 
OI18,  and  tiie 
58,  to  proceed 
northern  lati- 
westward,  in 
irn  extremity 
)y  that  route, 
le  Dorothea, 
ivere  ordered 
zbergen,  and 
sea,  if  such 

of  their  pub- 
the  account 

1819:  while 
fi.  and  Trent 

eechey,  who 
the  voyage. 

of  the  ships 


and  James 


T.  Wilcox, 


I 


i 


m 


45  petty  officers,  seamen,  and  marines. 

Whole  complement,  67. 

Alexander. 

Lieutenant    and    Commander — "William    Edward 

Parry,  (now  Captain  Sir  Edward.) 
Lieutenant — II.  II.  Iloopner,  (a  first  rate  artist.) 
Purser  —  W.  11.  Hooper. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  J .  Allison,  master ;  J.  Philips, 

mate. 
Admiralty  Midshipmen  —  P.  Bisson  and  J.^ius. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  A.  Fisher. 
Clerk  —  J.  Halse. 
28  petty  officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Whole  complement,  37. 

On  the  2d  of  May,  the  four  vessels  being  reported 
fit  for  sea,  rendezvoused  in  Brassa  Sound,  Shetland, 
and  the  two  expeditions  parted  company  on  the  follow- 
ing day  for  their  respective  destinations. 

On  the  26th,  the  Isabella  fell  in  with  the  first  ice- 
berg, which  appeared  to  be  about  forty  feet  high  and 
a  thousand  feet  long.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  imagine 
any  thing  more  exquisite  than  the  variety  of  tints  which 
these  icebergs  display  ;  by  night  as  well  as  by  day  they 
glitter  with  a  vividness  of  color  beyond  the  power  of 
art  to  represent.  While  the  white  portions  have  the 
brilliancy  of  silver,  their  colors  are  as  various  and 
splendid  as  those  of  the  rainbow ;  their  ever-changing 
disposition  producing  effects  as  singular  as  they  are 
new  and  interesting  to  those  who  have  not  seen  them 
before. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  they  reached  Waygatt  Sound, 
beyond  Disco  Island,  where  they  found  forty-five 
whalers  detained  by  the  ice.  Waygatt  Island,  from 
observations  taken  on  shore,  was  found  to  be  5°  longi- 
tude and  30  miles  of  latitude  from  the  situation  as  laid 
down  in  the  Admiralty  Charts. 

They  were  not  able  to  get  away  from  here  till  the 
20th,  when  the  ice  began  to  break.  By  cutting  passages 


iii^ 


* 

«'ij 


PI 

'ill 


I '; 


40 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


through  the  ice,  and  by  dint  of  towing  and  warping, 
u  slow  ))rogres3  was  made  with  the  ships  until  the 
17th  of  July,  when  two  ice-floes  closing  in  upon  them, 
threatened  inevitable  destruction,  and  it  was  only  by 
the  greatest  exertions  that  they  hove  through  into  open 
water.  The  labors  of  warping,  towing,  and  tracking 
were  subsequently  very  severe.  Tliis  tracking,  al- 
though hard  work,  atfurded  great  amusement  to  the 
men,  giving  frequent  occasion  for  the  exercise  of  their 
wit,  when  some  of  the  men  occasionally  fell  in  through 
holes  covered  with  snow  or  weak  parts  of  the  ice. 

Very  high  mountains  of  land  and  ice  were  seen  to 
the  north  side  of  the  bay,  which  he  named  Melville's 
Bay,  forming  an  impassable  barrier,  the  precipices 
next  the  sea  being  from  1000  to  2000  feet  high. 

On  the  29th  of  June,  the  Esquimaux,  John  Sacheuse, 
who  had  accompanied  the  expedition  from  England  as 
interpreter,  was  sent  on  shore  to  communicate  with 
the  natives.  About  a  dozen  came  off  to  visit  the  ship, 
and,  after  being  treated  with  coffee  and  biscuit  in  the 
cabin,  and  having  their  portraits  taken,  they  set  to 
dancing  Scotch  reels  on  the  deck  of  the  Isabella  with 
the  sailors. 

Captain  Ross  gives  a  pleasant  description  of  this 
scene  — "  Sacheuse's  mirth  and  joy  exceeded  all 
bounds ;  and  with  a  good-humored  officiousness,  justi- 
fied by  the  important  distinction  which  his  superior 
knowledge  now  gave  him,  he  performed  the  office  of 
master  of  the  ceremonies.  An  Esquimaux  M.  C.  to  a 
ball  on  the  deck  of  one  of  H.  M.  ships  in  the  icy  seas 
of  Greenland,  was  an  office  somewhat  new,  but  Nash 
himself  could  not  have  performed  his  functions  in  a 
manner  more  appropriate.  It  did  not  belong  even  to 
Nash  to  combine  in  his  own  person,  like  Jack,  the  dis- 
cordant qualifications  of  seaman,  interpreter,  draughts- 
man, and  master  of  ceremonies  to  a  ball,  with  those 
of  an  active  fisher  of  seals  and  a  hunter  of  white  bears. 
A  daughter  of  the  Danish  resident  (by  in  Esquimaux 
woman,)  about  eighteen  years  of  age,  and  by  far  the 
best  looking  of  the  half-caste  group,  wa&  the  object  of 


Y. 


FIRST   VOYAGE   OF   CAPTAIN    ROSS. 


41 


ind  warping, 
ips  until  the 
n  upon  them, 

was  only  by 
igh  into  open 
and  tracking 
tracking,  al- 
iment to  the 
rcise  of  their 
11  in  through 
*  the  ice. 
were  seen  to 
id  Melville's 
e   precipices 

high. 

hn  Sacheuse, 
1  England  as 
unicate  with 
isit  the  ship, 
)iscuit  in  the 
[  they  set  to 
sabella  with 

tion  of  this 
receded  all 
sness,  justi- 
jiis  superior 
he  office  of 
M.  C.  to  a 
he  icy  seas 
,  but  Nash 
ctions  in  a 
ing  even  to 
|ck,  the  dis- 
,  draughts- 
Iwith  those 
Ihite  bears, 
squimaux 
|by  far  the 
object  of 


JacV^  particular  attentions;  which  being  observed  by 
one  of  our  otHcers,  he  gave  him  a  lady's  hIhiwI,  orna- 
mented with  spangles,  as  an  ottering  for  her  accL'ptanco. 
lie  presented  it  in  a  nu)st  respectful,  and  not  ungrace- 
ful manner  to  the  damsel,  who  bashfully  took  a  pew- 
ter ring  from  her  linger  and  gave  it  to  him  in  return, 
rewarding  him,  at  the  same  time,  with  an  eloquent 
smile,  which  could  leave  no  doubt  on  our  Esciuimaux's 
mind  that  he  had  made  an  impression  on  her  heart.''* 
On  the  5th  of  August  the  little  auks  (Mergulfus  alle,) 
were  exceedingly  abundant,  and  many  were  ehot  for 
food,  as  was  also  a  large  gull,  two  feet  live  inches  in 
length,  which,  when  killed,  disgorged  one  of  these 
little  birds  entire. 

A  fortnight  later,  on  two  boats  being  sent  from  the 
Isabella  to  procure  as  many  of  these  birdj  as  possible, 
for  the  purpose  of  preserving  them  in  ice,  they  re- 
turned at  midnight  with  a  boat-load  of  about  1500, 
havinur  on  an  averasje,  killed  fifteen  at  each  shot.  The 
boats  of  the  Alexander  were  nearly  as  successful. 
These  birds  were  afterward  served  daily  tg  each  man, 
and,  among  other  ways  of  dressing  them,  they  were 
found  to  make  excellent  soup—  not  inferior  to  hare 
soup.  Not  less  than  two  hundred  auks  were  shot  on 
the  6th  of  August,  and  served  out  to  the  ships'  compa- 
nies, among  whose  victuals  they  proved  an  agreeable 
variety,  not  having  the  fishy  flavor  that  might  be  ex- 
pected from  their  food,  which  consists  of  Crustacea, 
small  fishes,  mollusca,  or  marine  vegetables. 

On  the  7th  of  August  the  ships  were  placed  in  a 
most  critical  situation  by  a  gale  of  wind.  The  Isabella 
was  lifted  by  the  pressure  of  ice  floes  on  each  side  of 
her,  and  it  was  doubted  whether  the  vessel  could  long 
withstand  the  grips  and  concussions  she  sustained ; 
"  every  support  threatened  to  give  way,  the  beams  in 
the  hold  began  to  bend,  and  the  iron  water-tanks 
settled  together.  The  tv/o  vessels  v^^'®  thrown  with 
violent  concussion  against  each  other,  the  ice-anchors 


i 

n 


■  1 1 


H* 


•  VoL  I,  p.  67. 6a 


pKOOEfiss  OF  a.j:ctic  discovkkt. 


I!' 


and  cftbloB  broke  one  after  the  t)thor,  a  boat  at  the 
Bterii  wiis  Rinaslied  in  the  cullision,  aiul  tlie  masts 
wore  hourly  expected  to  ^o  by  the  board;  but  at  this 
juncture,  when  certain  derftruction  was  luomentarily 
loolced  tor,  by  the  niercifid  interposition  of  Providence 
the  iields  of  ice  suddenly  opened  and  foimed  a  clear 
passage  for  the  ships." 

A  singular  physical  feature  was  noticed  on  the  part 
of  the  coast  near  Cape  Dudley  Digges  : — "We  have 
discovered,  (says  Ross,)  that  the  snow  on  the  face  of 
the  cliffs  presents  an  appearance  both  novel  and  inter- 
esting, being  apparently  stained  or  covered  by  some 
substance  which  gave  it  a  deep  crimson  color.  This 
snow  was  penetrated  in  many  places  to  a  depth  of  ten 
or  twelve  feet  by  the  coloring  matter."  There  is  noth- 
ing new,  however,  according  to  Barrow,  in  the  discov- 
ery of  red  snow.  Pliny,  and  other  writers  of  his  time 
mention  it.  Saussure  found  it  in  various  parts  of  the 
Alps  ;  Martin  found  it  in  Spitzbergen,  and  no  doubt 
it  is  to  be  met  with  in  most  alpine  regions. 

In  the  course  of  this  tedious,  and  often  laborious 
progress  thTough  the  ice,  it  became  necessary  to  keep 
the  whole  of  the  crew  at  the  most  fatiguing  work,  some- 
times for  several  days  and  nights  without  intermission. 
"When  this  was  the  case,  an  extra  meal  was  served  to 
them  at  midnight,  generally  of  preserved  meat ;  and 
it  was  found  that  this  nourishment,  when  the  mind 
and  body  were  both  occupied,  and  the  sun  continually 
present,  rendered  them  capable  of  remaining  without 
sleep,  so  that  they  often  passed  ui'ee  days  in  this  man- 
ner without  any  visible  inconvenience,  returning  after 
a  meal  to  their  labor  on  the  ice  or  in  the  boats  quite 
refreshed,  and  continuing  at  it  without  a  murmur. 

After  making  hasty  and  very  cursory  examinations 
of  Smith's  and  Jones'  Sounds,  Ross  arrived,  on  the 
30th  of  August,  off  the  extensive  inlet,  named  by  Baf- 
fin, Lancaster  Sound.  The  entrance  was  perfectly 
clear,  and  the  60i!ndings  ranged  from  650  to  1000  fath- 
oms. I  shall  now  quote  Ross's  own  observations  on 
this  subject,  because  from  his  unfortunate  report  of  a 


i 


■awiMiiiti^wiMiiflr  i;rrii?BBggiM 


FIK8T    V()YA(n:    OK    CAPTAIN    liO^S. 


43 


>()at  at  the 
tlie  nmsts 
but  ut  this 
iMinentarily 
Providence 
led  a  clear 

on  the  part 
"We  have 
:he  face  of 
1  and  inter- 
jd  by  some 
lolor.  Tiiia 
epth  of  ten 
ere  is  noth- 
the  discov- 
of  his  time 
oarts  of  the 
d  no  doubt 

laborious 
ry  to  keep 
ork,  aoine- 
Itermissiou. 
Is  served  to 
eat ;  and 
the  mind 
;ontinually 
ig  without 
this  man- 
l-ning  after 
)oats  quite 
irmur. 
Iminations 
jd,  on  the 
jd  by  Baf- 
perfectly 
11 000  fath- 
nations  on 
jport  of  a 


range  c:ill»'<l  the  Ciokei'  nu>untai!\s,  Ktivtching  across 
this  Strait,  lias  resulted  nmcli  of  tlio  ridicule  and  dis- 
credit whieh  iuis  attaelied  to  his  accnunts,  and  clouded 
his  eai'ly  reputation  —  "On  the  .".1st  (he  says)  we  dis- 
covered, for  till!  iirst  tiint»,  that  the  huul  extended  from 
the  south  Ivvo-thirds  across  this  aj)parent  ^>trait ;  hut 
the  i'o'^  which  continually  occu})ie(l  that  ([uarter,  ob- 
scured its  real  figure.  During  the  day  much  interest 
was  excited  on  board  by  the  a])j)earance  of  this  Strait. 
The  general  o])inion,  however,  was,  that  it  was  only  an 
inlet.  The  lantl  was  partially  seen  extending  across  ; 
the  yellow  sky  was  ])erceptil)le.  At  a  little  before  four 
o'clock  A.  M.,  the  land  was  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the 
iiiKt  by  the  otKcers  of  the  watch,  but  before  I  got  on 
deck  a  space  of  about  seven  degrees  of  the  compass 
was  obscured  by  the  fog.  The  land  which  I  then  saw 
was  a  high  ridge  of  juuuntains  extending  directly  across 
the  bottom  of  tlic  inlet.  This  chain  a})peared  extremely 
high  in  the  center.  Although  a  passage  in  this  direc- 
tion ap])eare(l  hopeless,  I  was  determined  to  explore  it 
com}>letely.  1  therefore  continued  all  sail.  Mr.  Bev- 
erly, the  sui'geon,  who  was  the  most  sanguine,  went  up 
to  the  crow's  nest,  and  at  twelve  reported  to  me  that 
before  it  tjecame  thick  ho  had  seen  the  land  across  the 
bay,  except  for  a  very  short  space. 

"At  thi'ee,  I  went  on  deck  ;  it  completely  cleared  for 
ten  minutes,  when  I  distinctly  saw  the  land  round  the 
bottom  of  the  bay,  forming  a  chain  of  mountains  con- 
nected with  those  which  extended  along  the  north  and 
south  side.  This  land  appeared  to  be  at  the  distance 
of  eight  leagues,  and  Mr.  Lewis,  the  master,  and  James 
llaig,  leading  man,  being  sent  for,  they  took  its  bear- 
ings, which  were  inserted  in  the  log.  At  this  moment 
I  also  saw  a  continuity  of  ice  at  the  distance  of  seven 
miles,  extending  from  one  side  of  the  bay  to  the  other, 
between  the  nearest  cape  to  the  north,  which  I  named 
after  Sir  George  Warrender,  and  that  to  the  south, 
which  was  named  after  Yiscount  Castlereagh.  The 
mountains,  which  occupied  the  center,  in  a  north  and 

3  B^ 


44 


rUOUUKSo    OF    AliCTIC    1  )!.-('<  tVKJiV. 


:i.;!i 


liiii 


south  direction,  were  named  Croker's  ]\IountaiiiS,  after 
the  Secretary  to  the  Admiralty."* 

They  next  proceeded  to  Possession  Bay,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Strait,  where  a  great  many  animals  were 
observed.  Deer,  fox,  ermine,  bears,  and  hares,  were 
cither  seen,  or  proved  to  be  in  abundance  by  their 
tracks,  and  the  skeleton  of  a  whale  was  found  stranded 
about  500  yards  beyond  high-water-mark.  Finding,  as 
Eoss  supposed,  no  outlet  through  Lancaster  Strait,  the 
vessels  continued  their  progress  to  the  southward,  ex- 
ploring the  western  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay  to  Pond's 
Bay,  and  Booth's  Inlet,  discovering  the  trendino-  of  the 
land,  which  he  named  North  Galloway,  and  North 
Ayr  to  Cape  Adair,  and  Scott's  Bay. 

On  September  the  10th,  the}^  landed  on  an  island 
near  Cape  Eglington,  which  was  named  Agnes'  Monu- 
ment. A  flag-staff  and  a  bottle,  with  an  account  of 
their  proceedings  was  set  up.  The  renuiins  of  a  tem- 
porary habitation  of  some  of  the  Esquimaux  were  here 
observed,  with  a  fire-place,  part  of  a  human  skull,  a 
broken  stone  vessel,  some  bones  of  a  seal,  burnt  wood, 
part  of  a  sledge,  and  tracks  of  dogs,  &c. 

"While  the  boat  was  absent,  two  large  bears  swam  off 
to  the  ships,  which  were  at  the  distance  of  six  miles 
from  the  land.  They  reached  the  Alexander,  and  were 
immediately  attacked  by  the  boats  of  that  ship,  and 
killed.  One,  which  was  shot  through  the  head,  unfor- 
tunately sank  ;  the  other,  on  being  wounded,  attacked 
the  boats,  and  showed  considerable  play,  but  was  at 
length  secured  and  towed  to  the  Isabella  by  the  boats 
of  both  ships.  The  animal  weighed  1131  i  lbs.,  besides 
the  blood  it  had  lost,  which  was  estimated  at  30  lbs 
more. 

On  the  following  day,  Lieut.  Parry  was  sent  on  shore 
to  examine  an  iceberg,  which  was  found  to  be  41(^9 
yards  lon^,  3869  yards  broad,  and  51  feet  high,  being 
aground  m  61  fathoms.  When  they  had  ascended  to 
the  top,  which  was  perfectly  flat,  they  found  a  huge 

•  Vol.  I,  p.  241-46.  8vo.  ed.  ^ 


i:v. 


VOYAGE   OF   liUCIlAN    AND   FKANKLIN. 


45 


imtaiiiS,  after 


ly,  at  the  en- 
animals  were 
[  hares,  were 
nee  by  their 
unci  stranded 
Finding,  as 
ter  Strait,  the 
outhward,  ex- 
ay  to  Pond's 
ending  of  the 
r,  and  North 

on  an  island 
A.giies'  Monu- 
m  account  of 
lins  of  a  tem- 
lux  were  here 
iiman  skull,  a 
,  burnt  wood, 

3ar8  swam  off 
1  of  six  miles 
der,  and  were 
lat  ship,  and 
3  head,  uu for- 
ded, attacked 
,  but  was  at 
by  the  boats 
lbs.,  besides 
d  at  30  lbs 

?ent  on  shore 

to  be  4109 

hiffh,  beino 

ascended  to 

mnd  a  huge 


■■■$ 


white  bear  in  quiet  possession  of  the  mass,  who,  much 
to  their  mortification  and  astonishment,  plunged  with- 
out hesitation  into  the  sea  from  the  edge  of  the  preci 
pice,  which  was  fifty  feet  high. 

From  careful  observation  it  was  found  that  there  was 
no  such  land  in  the  center  of  Davis'  Strait  as  James' 
Island,  which  was  laid  down  in  most  of  the  charts. 
Nothing  deserving  of  notice  occurred  in  the  subsv  quent 
course  of  the  vessels  past  Cape  Walsingham  to  Cum- 
berland Strait. 

The  1st  of  October  having  arrived,  the  limit  to  M'hich 
his  instructions  permitted  him  to  remain  out,  Ross 
shaped  his  course  homeward,  and  after  encountering  a 
severe  gale  olf  Cape  Farewell,  arrived  in  Grimsby 
Roads  on  the  14tli  of  November.  As  respects  the  pur- 
pose of  Arctic  discovery,  this  voyage  may  be  considered 
almost  a  blank,  none  of  the  important  inlets  and  sounds 
of  Eafiin's  Bay  having  been  explored,  and  all  that  was 
done  was  to  define  more  clearly  the  land-bounds  of 
Davis'  Strait  and  Baftin's  Bay,  if  we  except  the  valu- 
able magnetic  and  other  observations  made  by  Captain 
Sabine.  The  commander  of  the  expedition  was  pro- 
moted to  the  rank  of  captain  on  paying  off  the  ships  in 
December,  1818. 

The  account  of  his  voyage,  published  by  Capt.  Ross, 
is  of  the  most  meager  and  uninteresting  des(  ription, 
and  more  than  half  filled  w4th  dry  details  of  the  outfit, 
copies  of  his  instructions,  of  his  routine  letters  and 
orders  to  his  officers,  &c. 

BuCHAN  AND   FkANKT-IN. 

Dorothea  and  Trent  to  Pole^  1818. 

In  conjunction  with  the  expedition  of  Captain  John 
Ross,  was  that  sent  out  to  the  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  and 
of  v/hich  Captain  Beechy  has  publisned  a  most  inter- 
esting account,  embellished  with  some  very  elegant 
illustrations  from  his  pencil.  The  charge  of  it  was 
given  to  Captain  D.  Buchan,  who  had,  a  few  years  pre- 
viously, conducted  a  very  interesting  expedition  into 


i 


^aa 


m 


m 


w 


I 

a;'.,  II  I 

p. 


I 


m 


i-;i 


:i    Mi; 


46 


PROGKIiSS    OF    AKCTIC    DISCOVKKY. 


the  interior  of  jSewtbuiKllaiicl.  The  first  and  most  im- 
portant object  of  this  exjiedition  was  the  discovery  of 
a  passage  over  or  as  near  tlie  Pole,  as  miglit  be  possibk^, 
and  through  Behring's  Straits  into  the  Pacific.  But  it 
was  also  hoped  that  it  might  at  the  same  time  be  the 
means  of  improving  the  geography  and  hydrography 
of  the  Arctic  regions,  of  which  so  little  was  at  that  time 
known,  and  contribute  to  the  advancement  of  sciewce 
and  natural  knowledge.  The  objects  to  which  attention 
was  specially  pointed  in  the  Admiralty  instructions, 
were  the  variation  and  inclination  of  the  magnetic  nee- 
dle, the  intensity  of  the  magnetic  force,  and  how  far  it 
is  affected  by  atmospherical  electricity  ;  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air,  the  dip  of  the  horizon,  refraction,  height 
of  the  tides,  set  and  velocity  of  the  currents,  depths 
and  soundings  of  the  sea.  Collections  of  specimens  to 
illustrate  the  animal,  mineral  and  vegetable  kingdoms, 
were  also  directed  to  be  made. 
The  officers  and  crew  appointed  to  these  vessels  were : 

Dorothea.^  382  tons. 

Captain  —  David  Buchan. 

Lieutenant  —  A.  Morell. 

Surgeon  —  John  Duke. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  W.  G.  Borland. 

Purser  —  John  Jermain. 

Astronomer — George  Fisher. 

Admiralty  Mates  —  C.  Palmer  and  W.  J.  Dealy. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  P.  Bruce,  master;  G.  Crawfurd, 

mate. 
45  petty  officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  55. 

Trent,  249  tons. 

Lieutenant  and  Commander  —  John  Franklin. 

Lieutenant  —  Fred.  W.  Beechy,  (artist.) 

Purser  —  W.  Barrett. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  K.  Gilfillan. 

Admiralty  Mates — A.  Reid  and  George  Back. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  G.  Fife,  master  ;  G.  Kirby,  n*  ^e. 

30  petty  othccrs  and  seamen. 

Total  complement,  38. 


VOYAGE  OF  BUOHAN  AND  FRANKLIN. 


47 


id  most  iin- 
iscovery  of 
be  possible, 
llic.  But  it 
time  be  the 
ydrography 
at  that  time 
t  of  sciewce 
ch  attention 
instructions, 
agnetic  nee- 
\  how  far  it 
he  tempera- 
ction,  height 
3nts,  depths 
ipecimens  to 
e  kingdoms, 

essels  were : 


r.  Dealy. 
\.  Crawfurd, 


iklin. 


iBack. 
jrby,  n>  ^e. 


f 


Having  been  properly  fitted  for  the  service,  and  ta- 
ken (»n  board  two  years'  provisions,  the  ships  sailed  on 


the  2r)th  of  April.  The  Trent  had  hardly  got  clear  of 
the  river  before  she  sprang  a  leak,  and  was  detaint-d  in 
the  poru  of  Lerwick   nearly  a   fortnight   undergoing 


re[)aii'S. 


•ed 


On  the  ll'rli  of  May,  the  ships  encountered  a  severe 
gale,  and  under  even  storm  stay -sails  were  buried  gun- 
wale deep  in  the  waves.  On  the  24th  they  sighted 
Cherie  Island,  situated  in  hit.  74^"'  33'  N.,  and'long.  IT'' 
iO'  E.,  formerly  so  noted  for  its  fishery,  being  much 
frequented  by  walrusses,  and  fur  many  years  tiie  Mus- 
cov^y  Company  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade  by  sending 
ships  to  the  island  for  oil,  as  many  as  a  thousand  ani- 
mals being  often  captured  by  the  crew  of  a  single  shij) 
in  the  course  of  six  or  seven  hours. 

The  progress  of  the  discovery  ships  through  the  small 
floes  and  huge  masses  of  ice  which  floated  in  succes- 
sion past,  was  slow,  and  these,  from  their  novelty,  were 
regarded  with  peculiar  attention  from  the  grotes(|ue 
sha])es  they  assume.  The  progress  of  a  vessel  through 
such  a  labyrinth  of  frozen  masses  is  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting sights  that  offer  in  the  Arctic  seas,  and  kept 
the  oflicers  and  crew  out  of  their  beds  till  a  late  hour 
watcliing  the  scene.  Capt.  Beechey,  the  graphic  nar- 
rator of  the  voyage,  thus  describes  the  general  impres- 
sion created  : — "  There  was  besides,  on  this  occasion, 
an  additional  motive  for  remaining  up;  very  few  of 
us  had  ever  seen  the  sun  at  midnight,  and  this  night 
ha])peniiig  to  be  particularly  clear,  his  broad  red  disc, 
curiously  distorted  by  refraction,  and  sweeping  majes- 
ticalh^  along  the  northern  horizon,  was  an  object  of  im- 
posing grandeur,  which  riveted  to  the  deck  some  of  our 
crew,  who  would  perhaps  have  beheld  with  indifterenco 
the  less  im]x>sing  efl'ect  of  the  ice1»ergs;  or  it  might  have 
been  a  (combination  of  both  the^^e  ])henomena  ;  for  it 
cannot  be  denied  that  the  novelty,  occasioned  by  the 


flonti 


ng  masses,  was  nni.tcriallv  heiirhtened  bv  the  sin- 


gular  efl'ect  ])roduced  i)y  tlie  very  low  altitude  at  wliich 
the  sun  cast  his  fiery  beams  over  the  icv  surface  of  the 


ir 


mi 


111 

m 


48 


I'ROGKESS   OF    AllCTlCJ   DISCOVERY. 


i 


[«"• 


sea.  The  rays  were  too  oLliqne  to  ilhiiniiiate  Tiiore  tliaii 
the  ine(jiiulitie8  of  the  tloes,  and  tViliiiig  thun  pari  iuily 
on  the  grotesque  shapes,  either  really  assuinei;!  Ly  tlie 
ice  or  distorted  by  the  unequal  retraction  of  the  atmos- 
phere, so  betrayed  the  imagination  that  it  re(|uired  ]io 
groat  exertion  of  fancy  to  trace  in  various  directions  ar- 
chit-ectural  edilices,  grottos  and  caves  here  and  there 

flittering  as  if  with  precious  metals.  So  generally,  in- 
eed,  was  the  deception  admitted,  that,  in  dircctino- 
the  route  of  the  vessel  from  aloft,  we  for  awhile  deviated 
from  our  nautical  phraseology,  and  shaped  our  course 
for  a  church,  a  tower,  a  bridge,  or  some  similar  structure^ 
instead  of  for  lumps  of  ice,  which  were  usually  desig- 
nated by  less  elegant  appellations." 

Tiie  increasing  difficulties  of  this  ice  navigation  soon, 
however,  directed  their  attention  from  romance  to  the 
reality  of  their  position,  the  perils  of  which  soon  be- 
came alarmingly  apparent. 

"  The  streams  of  ice,  between  which  we  at  first  pur- 
sued our  serpentine  course  wuth  comparative  ease,  grad- 
ually became  more  narrow,  and  at  length  so  impeded 
the  navigation,  that  it  became  necessary  to  run  the  ships 
against  some  of  these  imaginary  edifices,  in  order  to  turn 
them  aside.  Even  this  did  not  alwavs  succeed,  as  some 
were  so  substantial  and  immoveable,  that  the  vessels 
glanced  off  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  channel,  and 
then  became  for  a  time  embedded  in  the  ice.  Thus  cir- 
cumstanced, a  vessel  has  no  other  resource  thant^iat  of 
patiently  awaiting  the  change  of  position  in  the  ice,  of 
which  she  must  take  every  advantage,  or  she  wnll  settle 
bodily  to  leeward,  and  become  completely  entangled." 

On  the  26th  the  ships  sighted  the  southern  promon- 
tory of  Spitzbergen,  and  on  the  28th,  while  plying  to 
windAvard  on  the  western  side,  were  overtaken  by  a 
violent  gale  at  southwest,  in  which  they  parted  com- 
pany. The  weather  was  very  severe.  ''The  snow  fell 
in  heavy  showers,  and  several  tons  weight  of  ice  accu- 
mulated about  the  sides  of  the  brig,  (the  Trent,)  and  form 
ed  a  complete  casing  to  tne  ])]anks,  which  received  an 
additional  layer  at  each  plunge  of  the  vessel.  So  great 


■I 


■:&■ 


lY. 


VOYAGE    OF   BUCIIAN    AND    FIl.XJS'KLIX. 


49 


te  more  tliau 

lined  Lv  the 
)t'  the  titiiiob- 

rec^iiired  no 
lii'cctioiis  ar- 
:'e  and  tiiere 
t>:eiiera]!v,  in- 

in  direetino- 

Idle  deviated 
id  our  course 
lar  structure^ 
Lsualiy  desig- 

igation  soon, 
niance  to  the 
icli  soon  be- 
at first  pur- 
,^e  ease,  grad- 
I  so  impeded 
run  the  ships 
order to  turn 
;eed,  as  somo 
;  the  vessels 
bannel,  and 
ThMs  cir- 
than  diat  of 
n  the  ice,  of 
le  will  settle 
entangled." 
rn  promon- 
le  plying  to 
taken  bv  a 
parted  com- 
-le  snow  fell 
of  ice  accu- 
t,)  and  form 
received  ar: 
el.  So  great 


e. 


r 


indeed,  ^^•as  the  accumulation  about  the  bows,  that  we 
v/erc  obliged  to  cut  it  away  repeatedly  with  axes  to  re- 
lieve tlie  bow-sprit  from  the  enormous  weight  that  was 
attached  to  it ;  and  the  ropes  were  so  thickly  covered 
with  ice,  that  it  v/as  necessary  to  beat  them  with  large 
sticks  to  keep  them  in  a  state  of  readiness  for  any  evo- 
lution that  might  be  rendered  necessary,  either^  by  the 
appearance  of  ice  to  leeward,  or  by  a  change  of  wind." 

On  the  gale  abating.  Lieutenant  Franklin  found  him- 
self surrounded  by  the  main  body  of  ice  in  lat.  80°  N., 
and  had  much  difliculty  in  extricating  the  vessel. — 
Had  this  formidable  body  been  encountered  in  thick 
weather,  while  scudding  before  a  gale  of  wind,  there 
would  have  been  very  little  chance  of  saving  either  the 
vessels  or  the  crews.  The  Trent  fortunately  fell  in  with 
her  consort,  the  Dorothea,  previous  to  entering  the  ap- 
pointed rendezvous  at  Magdalena  Bay,  on  the  3d  of 
June.  This  commodious  inlet  being  the  first  port  they 
had  anchored  at  in  the  polar  regions,  possessed  many 
objects  to  engage  attention.  What  particularly  struck 
them  was  the  brilliancy  of  the  atmosphere,  the  peace- 
ful novelty  of  the  scene,  and  the  grandeur  of  the  vari- 
ous objects  with  which  nature  has  stored  these  unfre- 
quented regions.  The  anchorage  is  formed  by  rugged 
mountains,  which  rise  precipitously  to  the  height  of 
about  3000  feet.  Deep  valleys  and  glens  occur  between 
the  ranges,  the  greater  part  of  which  are  either  filled 
with  immense  beds  of  snow,  or  with  glaciers,  sloping 
from  the  summits  of  the  mountainous  margin  to  the 
very  edge  of  the  sea. 

The  bay  is  rendered  conspicuous  by  four  huge  gla- 
ci(}rs,  of  which  the  most  remarkable,  though  the  small- 
est in  size,  is  situated  200  feet  above  the  ^sea,  on  the 
elope  ci  a  mountain.  From  its  peculiar  appearance 
this  glacier  has  been  tenned  the  Hanging  Iceberg. 

Its  position  is  such  that  it  seems  as  if  a  very  small 
matter  would  detach  it  from  the  mountain,  and  precip- 
itate it  into  the  sea.  And,  indeed,  large  portions  of  its 
front  do  occasionally  break  aw^ay  and  fall  with  head- 
long impetuosity  upon  the  beach,  to  the  great  hazard 


ii! 


SI 


il  .'■« 


4 


'II 


i;i  <! 


MIL 


fi{ 


II!  f 


ii 


60 


rnooREss  of  arctic  discovery. 


of  any  boat  that  may  chance  to  be  near.  The  large-t 
of  tliese  glaciers  occupies  the  liead  of  the  bay,  and, 
according  to  Captain  Jieechey's  account,  extend^;  from 
two  to  three  miles  inland.  ^Numerous  large  rents  in  its 
upper  surface  have  caused  it  to  bear  a  resemblance  to 
the  ruts  left  by  a  wagon  ;  hence  it  was  named  by  tiio 
voyagers  the  "  AVagon  Way."  The  frontage  of  tins  gla- 
cier presents  a  perpendicuhir  surface  of  300  feet  in 
height,  by  7000  feet  in  length.     Mountain  masses — 

"  Wliose  blocks  of  sappliire  seem  to  mortal  eye 
Hewn  from  cerulean  quarries  in  the  sky, 
With  glacier  battlements  that  crowd  the  spheres, 
The  slow  creation  of  six  thousauvJ  years, 
Amidst  immensity  the}  tower  sublime, 
"Winter's  eternal  palace,  built  by  Time." 

At  the  head  of  the  bay  there  is  a  high  pyramidal 
mountain  of  granite,  termed  Eotge  Hill,  from  the  myr- 
iads of  small  birds  of  that  name  which  frecjuent  its 
base,  and  appear  to  prefer  its  environs  to  every  other 
part  of  the  harbor.  "  They  are  so  numerous  that  we 
nave  frequently  seen  an  uninterrupted  line  of  them  ex- 
tending full  half  way  over  the  bay,  or  to  a  distance  of 
more  than  three  miles,  and  so  close  together  that  thirty 
have  fallen  at  one  shot.  This  living  column,  on  an  aver- 
age, might  have  been  about  six  yards  broad,  and  as 
many  deep  ;  so  that,  allowing  sixteen  birds  to  a  cubic 
yard,  there  must  have  been  nearly  four  millions  of  birds 
on  the  wing  at  one  time.  The  number  I  have  given  cer- 
tainly seems  large  ;  yet  when  it  is  told  that  the  littlo 
rotges  rise  in  such  numbers  as  completely  to  darken 
the  air,  and  that  their  chorus  is  distinctly  audible  at  a 
distance  of  four  miles,  the  estimate  will  not  be  thought 
to  bear  any  reduction." 

One  of  their  earliest  excursions  in  this  bay  was  an 
attempt  to  ascend  the  peak  of  Kotge  Hill, "upon  which," 
says  Captain  Beechey,  "  may  now,  perhaps,  be  seen  at 
the  height  of  about  2000  feet,  a  staii  that  once  carried 
a  red  flag,  which  was  planted  there  to  mark  the  great- 
est heiglit  we  were  able  to  attain,  partly  in  consequence 
of  the  steepness  of  the  asceiit,  but  mainly  on  account 
of  the  detached  masses  of  rock  which  a  very  slight 


1 
■  ;f$. 
M 


VOYAGE   OF   RUCTIAN    AND   FRANKLIN. 


51 


The  largest 
le  Itay,  and, 
'xtcnd.-;  ir(.)iu 
V.  rents  in  its 
t'inbUukx'  to 
-med  hy  the 
e  of  til  is  gla- 
300  feet  in 
masses — 


ares. 


pj^ramidal 
>m  the  myr- 
frequeiit  its 
every  otiier 
'US  that  we 
of  them  ex- 
distance  of 
tliat  tliirty 
on  an  aver- 
'ad,  and  as 

to  a  cubic 
•ns  of  birds 
)  given  cer- 
t  the  little 

to  darken 
tidible  at  a 

3e  thought 

ay  was  an 
)n  which," 
be  seen  at 
ce  carried 
the  great- 
3 sequence 
1  account 
n-y  slight 


-■•.-3" 


mutter  would  displace  and  hurl  down  the  precipitous 
declivity,  to  the  utter  destruction  of  him  who  depended 
uj)on  their  sup])ort,  or  who  might  happen  to  be  in 
their  path  below.  The  latter  part  of  our  ascent  was, 
indeed,  much  against  our  inclination  ;  but  we  found  it 
impossible  to  descend  by  tlie  way  we  had  come  up,  and 
were  compelled  to  gain  a  ledge,  wliich  promised  the 
only  secure  resting-place  we  could  lind  at  that  height. 
Dili's  we  were  able  to  eiFect  by  sticking  the  tomahawks 
with  which  we  were  provided, into  crevices  in  the  rock, 
as  a  support  for  our  feet ;  and  some  of  these  instru- 
ments we  were  obliged  to  leave  where  they  were  driven, 
in  consequence  of  the  danger  that  attended  their 
recovery."  During  the  vessel's  detention  in  this  har- 
bor, the  bay  and  anchorage  were  completely  surveyed. 

When  tlie  first  party  rowed  into  this  bay,  it  was  in 
quiet  possession  of  herds  of  walruses,  who  were  so  un- 
accustomed to  the  siglit  of  a  boat  that  they  assembled 
about  her,  apparently  highly  incensed  at  the  intrusion, 
and  swam  toward  her  as  though  they  would  have  torn 
the  planks  asunder  with  their  tusks.  Their  hides  were 
so  tough  that  nothing  but  a  bayonet  would  pierce  tliem. 
Q^he  wounds  that  were  infiicted  only  served  to  increase 
their  rage,  and  it  was  witii  much  difficulty  they  were 
kept  off  with  fire-arms.  Subsequently  the  boats  went 
l)etter  prepared  and  more  strongly  supported,  and 
many  of  these  monsters  were  killed  ;  some  were  four- 
teen feet  in  length,  and  nine  feet  girth,  and  of  such 
pi'odigious  weight,  that  the  boat's  crew  could  scarcely 
turn  them. 

The  ships  had  not  been  many  days  at  their  anchor- 
age wlien  they  were  truly  astonished  at  the  sight  of  a 
strange  boat  pulling  toward  the  ships,  which  was  found 
to  ])el(mg  to  some  Russian  adventurers,  who  were  en- 
gaged in  tlie  collection  of  peltry  and  morse' teeth.  This 
is  the  hist  remaining  establishment  at  Spitzborgen  still 
upheld  bv  the  merchants  of  Archano-el. 

Altliougli  equally  sur]>rised  at  the  sight  of  the  ves- 
sels, the  boat's  crew  took  courage,  and  ai>er  a  careful 
scrutiny,  went  on  board  the  Dorothea;  Captain  Buchan 


ral 


m 


:i 


In 


1  y 


^li 


H: 


m 


m 


52 


PROGRK88    OF   AliOTIO    DISCOVP^RY. 


giivo  them  a  kind  reception,  and  supplied  tliem  with 
vviiut^vei'  they  wanted  ;  in  return  for  which  they  sent 
on  board,  the  following  day,  a  side  of  venison  in  excel- 
lent condition.  Wisiiing  to  gain  some  further  informa- 
tion of  these  f»eople,  an  officer  accompanied  them  to 
tlieir  dwelling  at  the  head  of  a  small  cove,  about  four 
miles  distant  from  the  bay,  where  he  found  a  comfort- 
able wooden  hut,  well  lined  with  moss,  and  stored  with 
venison,  wild  ducks,  &c. 

It  is  related  by  Captain  Beechey  that  it  was  with  ex- 
treme pleasure  they  noticed  in  this  retired  spot,  proba- 
bly the  most  northern  and  most  desolate  habitation  of 
our  globe,  a  spirit  of  gratitude  and  devotion  to  the  Al- 
mighty rarely  exercised  in  civilized  countries.  "  On 
landing  from  the  boat  and  approaching  their  residence, 
these  people  knelt  upon  its  threshold,  and  oifered  up  a 
prayer  with  fervor  and  evident  sincerity.  The  exact 
nature  of  the  prayer  we  did  not  learn,  but  it  was  no 
doubt  one  of  thanksgiving,  and  we  concluded  it  was  a 
custom  which  these  recluses  w^ere  in  the  habit  of  observ- 
ing on  their  safe  return  to  their  habitation.  It  may,  at 
all  events,  be  regarded  as  an  instance  of  the  beneficial 
effects  which  seclusion  from  the  busy  world,  and  a  con- 
templation of  the  works  of  nature,  almost  invariably 
produce  upon  the  hearts  of  even  the  most  uneducated 
part  of  mankind.'" 

On  the  7th  of  June  the  expedition  left  the  anchorage 
to  renew  the  examination  of  the  ice,  and  after  steering 
a  few  leagues  to  the  northward,  found  it  precisely  in 
the  same  state  as  it  had  been  left  on  the  2d.  In  spite 
of  all  their  endeavors,  by  towing  and  otherwise,  the 
vessels  were  driven  in  a  calm  by  the  heavy  swell  into 
the  packed  ice,  and  the  increasing  peril  of  their  situa- 
tion may  be  imagined  from  the  following  graphic  de- 
pc'i'ir)tion  :  — 

••^  The  pieces  at  the  edge  of  the  pack  were  at  one  time 
wholly  immersed  in  the  sea,  and  at  the  next  raised  far 
al)Ove  their  natural  line  of  flotation,  while  those  further 
,,-,  h'Aug  more  extensive,  -were  alternately  depressed  or 


VUYAGE    OF   BL'CIIAN    AUD   FKANKI^IN. 


53 


1  tliem  witli 
cli  thuy  sent 
son  in  excel- 
her  intbnna- 
iod  tliLMu  to 
3,  about  four 
(I  a  conifort- 
.  stored  with 

was  with  ex- 
spot,  proba- 
abitation  of 
•n  to  the  Al- 
tries.     "  On 
ir  residence, 
offered  up  a 
The  exact 
it  it  was  no 
led  it  was  a 
it  of  observ- 
It  may,  at 
e  beneficial 
and  a  con- 
invariably 
neducated 

anchorage 
[er  steering 
precisely  in 
In  spite 
jrwise,  the 
I  swell  into 
[heir  situa- 
•aphic  de- 
one  time 
-aised  far 
fui-ther 
k*essed  or 


elevated   at  either  extremity  as  the  advancing  wiivo 
forced  its  way  along. 

'•Tiie  see-saw  motion  wliich  was  thus  produced  was 
ahirmiii"",  not  merely  in  appearance,  but  in  fact,  ujid 
niii.-t  have  proved  fatal  to  any  vessel  that  had  encoun- 
tered it ;  as  lloes  of  ice,  several  yards  in  thickness,  were 
continually  crashing  and  breaking  in  pieces,  and  liie 
sea  for  miles  was  covered  with  fragments  ground  so 
small   that  they  actually   ft>rmed    a  thick,  pasty  sub- 
stance—  in  nautical   language  termed,  'hris/i   ice'  — 
which  extended  to  the  depth  of  five  feet.     Amidst  this 
giddy  element,  our  whole  attention  was  occupied  in  en- 
deavoring to  place  the  bow  of  the  vessel,  the  strongest 
part  of  her  frame,  in  the  direction  of  the  most  fonnida- 
ble  pieces  of  ice  — a  maneuver  which,  though  likely  to 
be  attended  with  the  loss  of  the  bowsprit,  was  yet  jj refer- 
able to  encountering  the  still  greater  risk  of  having  the 
broadside  of  the  vessel  in  contact  with  it ;  for  this  would 
have  subjected  her  to  the  chance  of  dipping  her  gun- 
wale under  the  floes  as  she  rolled,  an  accident  which, 
had  it  occurred,  would  either  have  laid  oj)en  her  side, 
or  have  overset  the  vessel  at  once.     In  either  case,  the 
event  would  probably  have  proved  fatal  to  all  on  board, 
as  it  would  have  been  next  to  impossible  to  rescue  any 
person  from  the  confused  moving  mass  of  brash  ice 
which  covered  the  sea  in  every  direction." 

The  attention  of  the  seamen  was  in  some  degree  di- 
verted from  the  contemplation  of  this  scene  of  diffi- 
culty by  the  necessity  of  employing  all  hands  at  the 
pump,  the  leak  having  gained  upon  them.  But,  for- 
tunately, toward  morning,  they  got  quite  clear  of  the 
ice. 

Steering  to  the  westward  to  reconnoiter,  they  fell  in, 
m  longitude  4°  30'  E.,  with  several  whale  ships,  and 
were  informed  by  them  that  the  ice  was  qnite  compact 
to  the  westward,  and  that  fifteen  vessels  were  beset  in 
it.  Proceeding  to  the  northward,  the  ships  passed,  on 
the  11th  of  June,  Cloven  Cliff,  a  remarkable  isolated 
roc'k,  wliich  marks  the  northwestern  boundary  of  Spitz- 
bergen,  and  steered  along  an  intricate  channel  between 


4 


i'ii' 


i^ 


i 


m 


II 


n!! 


i  h 


6i 


PROOKKbiS    OF    AilJCTIC    I)I!<(.(>V1:UV. 


tlie  land  uiul  ice  ;  but,  next  moniinf^,  their  furtlier  ad- 
vanco  was  Ktoppcd,  and  the  channel  l)y  which  the  ves- 
sels liad  entered  became  so  completely  closed  up  as  to 
preclude  tlie  possibility  also  of  retreating.  Lieutenant 
l>eechey  proceeds  to  state  — 

''The  ice  soon  began  to  press  heavily  upon  us,  and, 
to  add  to  our  dilliculties,  we  found  the  water  so  shallow 
that  the  rocks  were  plainly  discovered  under  the  bot- 
toms of  tlie  ships.  It  was  impossible,  however,  by  any 
exertion  on  our  part,  to  improve  the  situations  of  the 
vessels.  They  were  as  lirmly  fixed  in  the  ice  as  if  they 
had  formed  part  of  the  pack,  and  we  could  oidy  hope 
that  the  current  would  not  drift  them  into  still  shal](.)wef 
water,  and  damage  them  against  the  ground." 

The  ships  were  here  hemmed  in  in  almost  the  same 
position  where  Baflin,  Hudson,  Poole,  Captain  Phipps, 
and  all  the  early  voyagers  to  this  quarter  had  been 
stopped. 

As  the  tide  turned,  the  pieces  of  ice  immediately 
around  the  ships  began  to  separate,  and  some  of  them 
to  twist  round  with  a  loud  grinding  noise,  urging  the 
vessels,  which  were  less  than  a  mile  from  the  land,  still 
nearer  and  nearer  to  the  beach. 

By  great  exertions  the  ships  were  hauled  into  small 
bays  in  the  floe,  and  secured  there  by  ropes  fixed  to  the 
ice  by  means  of  large  iron  hooks,  called  ice  anchors. 
Shifting  the  ships  from  one  part  of  this  floe  to  the  other, 
they  remained  attached  to  the  ice  thirteen  days.  As 
this  change  of  position  could  only  be  effected  by  main 
force,  the  crew  were  so  constantly  engaged  in  this  har- 
assing duty,  that  their  time  was  divided  almost  entirely 
between  the  w^indlass  and  the  pump,  until  the  men  at 
length  became  so  fatigued  that  the  sick-list  was  seriou.sly 
augmented.  During  this  period,  how^ever,  the  situation 
of  the  leak  was  fortunately  discovered,  and  the  danuigo 
repaired. 

An  ofticer  and  a  party  of  men  w'lio  left  the  Dorothea 
to  pay  a  visit  to  tlie  shore,  al)out  three  or  four  miles 
distant,  lost  themselves  in  the  fog  and  snow,  and  wan- 
dered about  for  sixteen  hours,  until,  quite  overcome 


•3 


VOVAOE  OF  BUCHAN  AND  FK AN KLIN. 


55 


ir  fnrtlier  ad- 

liic'li  tlie  voK- 

>t5L'{l  up  as  to 

J^ieuteiiant 

poll  118,  and, 
er  so  sliallow 
ider  tho  bot- 
eyer,  hy  any 
Ltions  of  the 
CO  as  if  the y 
d  only  hopo 
ill  shallower 
id." 

)st  the  same 
tain  Phipps, 
r  had   been 

mmediately 

•me  of  them 

ui'gino^  the 

le  land,  still 

into  small 

fixed  to  the 

ce  anchors. 

o  the  other, 

days.     As 

d  by  main 

n  this  har- 

ost  entirely 

he  men  at 

IS  seriously 

e  situation 

e  damage 


n 


Dorothea 
bur  miles 
and  wan- 
overcome 


m 

V,V5, 


with  wet,  cold  and  fati<j;ne,  they  sat  down  in  a  state  of 
dosjH>ndency,  upon  a  piece  of  ice,  determined  to  submit 
tlicir  fate  to  "^Providence.     Their  trou!)les  are  thus  told  : 

''To  travel  over  raijj^ed  pieces  of  ice,  upon  which 
there  were  two  feet  of  snow,  and  often  more,  sorinoinrr 
from  one  slij)pery  piece  to  the  other,  or,  when  tlie  chiiii- 
ncls  between  them  were  too  wide  for  this  purpose,  fr- 
rvin:^  themselves  upon  detached  fragments,  was  a  wovk 
which  it  required  no  ordinary  exertion  to  execute. 

"Some  fell  into  the  water,  and  were  with  ditHculfy 
preserved  from  drown  in  «5  by  their  companions  ;  while 
others,  afraid  to  make  any  hazardous  attempt  whatever, 
wei-e  left  upon  pieces  of  ice,  and  drifted  about  at  the 
mei'cy  of  tlie  winds  and  tides.  Foreseeing  the  proba- 
bility of  a  separation,  they  took  the  lirst  opportunity 
of  dividing,  in  equal  shares,  the  small  (piantity  of  pro- 
vision which  they  had  remaining,  as  also  their  stock  of 
])!)wder  and  ammunition.  They  also  took  it  in  turns  to 
tire  muskets,  in  the  hope  of  being  heard  from  the  shi])s." 

The  re)X)rts  of  the  fire-arms  were  heard  by  thcur  ship- 
mates, and  Messrs.  Fife  and  Kirby,  the  Greenland  ice- 
masters,  ventured  out  with  ])oles  and  lines  to  their 
assistance,  and  liad  the  good  fortune  to  fall  in  with  the 
]):irty,  and  bring  them  safely  on  board,  after  eighteen 
hours'  absence.  They  determined  in  future  to  rest  sat- 
isfied with  the  view  of  the  shore  which  was  afforded 
tliom  from  the  ship,  having  not  the  slightest  desire  to 
att(Mnpt  to  approach  it  again  by  means  of  the  ice. 

The  pressure  of  the  ice  against  the  vessels  now  be- 
came very  great. 

"At  one  time,  when  the  Trent  appeared  to  be  so  closely 
wedged  up  that  it  did  not  seem  possible  for  her  to  be 
moved,  she  was  suddenly  lifted  four  feet  by  an  enor- 
mous mass  of  ice  getting  under  her  keel ;  at  another, 
the  fragments  of  the  crumlring  floe  were  piled  up 
under  the  bows,  to  the  great  danger  of  the  bowsprit. 

"The  Dorothea  was  in  no  less  imminent  danger,  es- 
pecially from  the  point  of  a  floe,  which  came  in  contact 
with  her  side,  where  it  remain^'d  a  short  time,  and  then 
glanced  off,  and  became  checked  by  the  field  to  which 


•H 


m 


'i:i  "i 


50 


PKOOKKSS   OF    AliCTIC    DISCOVKIiT. 


slic  was  mooivd.  Tlie  eiioi'inoiis  prossuru  to  win  tlio 
hlii|»  liad  lioiMi  Mil)jc't'UMl  was  now  appari'iit  l)y  tl»e  tield 
l)i'ini;'  /•////.  aial  its  point  hruUc-n  into  t"ra<i;inonts,  whicli 
wt'iv  spi'odily  lii'api'd  nj)  in  a  jAnnnid,  tliirty-livc  t'eut 
in  lKM;j!,lit,  npon  tlio  vwy  sninniit  of  wliicli  tiiero  ap- 
j)C'aivd  a  Imui^  mass,  boarin*;'  tiie  impression  of  tlio 
])lanks  and  holts  of  the  vessePs  ]>ottom." 

AvaiUn^  thom.sulvus  of  a  hivalv  in  tlie  ice,  the  sliipa 
were  moved  to  an  anchorai>e  between  tlie  ishinds  con- 
tiivnons  to  the  Cloven  ('lili';  and  on  tlie  2Sth  of  Jnne, 
anchored  in  fifteen  fathoms  water,  near  Yosjel  San^. 
On  the  islands  they  found  plenty  of  game,  and  eidei*- 
duclvs. 

The  island  of  Yoo-el  Sang  alone  supplied  the  crew8 
with  forty  reindeer,  which  were  in  sucli  high  condition 
that  the  tat  upon  the  loins  of  some  measured  from  four 
to  six  inches,  and  a  carcass,  ready  for  being  dressed, 
weighed  285  pounds.  Later  in  the  season,  the  deer 
were,  however,  so  lean  that  it  was  rare  to  meet  with  any 
fat  ui)on  them  at  all. 

On  the  r)th  of  July,  iinding  the  ice  had  been  driven 
to  the  northward,  the  ships  again  put  to  sea,  and  Capt. 
Buchan  determined  to  prove,  by  a  desperate  effort, 
what  advance  it  was  possible  to  make  hy  dragging  the 
vessels  through  the  ice  whenever  the  smallest  opening 
occurred.  This  laborious  experiment  was  performea 
by  fixing  large  ropes  to  iron  hooks  driven  into  the  ice, 
and  by  heaving  upon  them  with  the  windlass,  a  party 
removing  obstructions  in  the  channel  with  saws.  But 
in  spite  of  all  their  exertions,  the  most  northerly  posi- 
tion attained  was  80*^  37'  N.  Although  fastened  to  the 
ice,  the  ships  were  now  drifted  bodily  to  the  southward 
by  the  prevailing  current.  They  were  also  much  in- 
jured by  the  pressure  of  hummocks  and  fields  of  ice. 

On  the  10th  of  July,  Captain  Beechey  tells  us,  the 
Trent  sustained  a  squeeze  which  made  her  rise  four 
feet,  and  heel  over  five  streaks  ;  and  on  the  15th  and 
16th,  both  vessels  suffered  considerable  damage.  "On 
that  occasion,"  he  says,  "we  observed  a  field  fifteen 
feet  in  thickness  break  up,  and  the  pieces  pile  upoD 


r 


■I 


VOYAGK   OF    millAN    AM)    FKANKJ.IN. 


57 


'o  wlii      tlio 
1)V  tlio  tield 

ft/ 

K'llts,  Wllifll 

rtv-livo  tout 
'h  tliero  ap- 
aioii  of  tlio 

;e,  the  ships 
slaiuls  cun- 
^th  of  June, 

,  and  eitlei'- 


(1  the  crew8 
;1j  condition 
d  from  four 
ng  dressed, 
n,  the  deer 
)et  with  any 

)een  driven 

,  and  Capt. 

rate   effort, 

a^^ging  the 

St  opening 

performed 

ito  the  ice, 

ss,  a  party 

aw8.    But 

lerly  posi- 

ned  to  the 

southward 

much  in- 

s  of  ice. 

Is  us,  the 

rise  four 

15th  and 

■2:e.     "  On 

Id  fifteen 

)ile  upoD 


each  (»tliorN)a  great  height,  until  they  upset,  wIkmi  they 
rolled  over  with  a  tivnitMuhtus  crash.  The  ice  near  the 
pliil>.s  was  piled  up  ahuve  their  hulwarks.  Kortuuatdv, 
the  vessels  rose  to  the  pressure,  nr  they  must  have  had 
their  sides  forced  in.  The  Trent  receive(l  her  greatest 
damage  ui>on  tlu^  (puirters,  and  was  ho  twisted  that  the 
doors"of  all  the  cabins  Hew  open,  and  the  panels  ot 
some  started  in  the  frames,  while  her  false  stern-post 
was  moved  three  inches,  and  her  timbers  cracked  to  a 
most  serious  extent.  The  Dorothea  suffered  still  more  : 
some  <»f  her  l)eams  were  sprung,  and  two  jdaidvs  on  the 
lower  deck  were  s))lit  fore  and  aft,  and  doubled  up,  and 
she  otherwise  sustained  serious  injury  in  her  hull.  It 
was  in  vain  that  we  attemptcul  any  relief;  our  ])uny 
efforts  were  not  even  felt,  though  continued  for  ei«jcht 
hours  with  unabated  zeal;  and  it  was  not  until  the^tide 
changed  that  the  smallest  effect  was  produced.  AVhen, 
however,  that  occurred,  the  vessels  ri^^hted  and  6ettU;d 
in  the  water  to  their  proper  draught." 

From  the  12th  to  the  10th,  they  were  closely  beset 
with  ice.  For  nine  successive  days  following  this  the 
crews  were  occupied,  .Ight  and  day,  in  endeavoi'ing  to 
extricate  the  ships,  and  regain  the  open  sea.  Thinking 
he  had  given  the  ice  a  fair  trial  here,  the  connnander 
determined  upon  examining  its  condition  toward  the 
eastern  coast  of  Greenland,  and  in  the  event  of  finding 
it  equally  impenetrable  there,  to  proceed  round  the 
south  cape  of  Spitzbergen,  and  make  an  attempt  be- 
tween that  island  and  Nova  Zembla. 

On  the  30th  of  July,  a  sudden  gale  came  on,  and 
brought  down  the  main  body  of  the  ice  upon  them,  so 
that  the  ships  were  in  such  imminent  danger  that  their 
only  means  of  safety  was  to  take  refuge  among  it  —  a 
practice  which  has  been  resorted  to  by  whalers  in  ex- 
treme cases  —  as  their  only  chance  of  escaping  destruc- 
tion. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  the  preparation 
made  to  withstand  the  terrible  encounter,  and  the  hair- 
breadth escapee  from  tlie  dangers  :  — 

"  In  order  to  avert  the  ^ffaeta  of  this  as  much  as  pos- 
3 


'l!i''l 
11 


11  111 

ff 


n  J 


I 


1 


^>^«* 


luil 

l" 

li 

1 

1 

'11 

1 

m 

t 

t 

t 

'\ 

I 

I    ' 


i!!: 


58 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCllC   DISCOVERY. 


sible,  a  cable  was  cut  up  into  thirty-feet  lengtlis,  aiiO 
these,  with  plates  of  iron  four  feet  S(piare,  wliich  Jiad 
been  supplied  to  us  as.  fenders,  together  witli  sonio 
walras'  Jiides,  were  hung  round  the  vessels,  especially 
about  the  bows.  The  masts,  at  the  same  time,  were  se- 
cured with  additional  ropes,  and  the  hatches  were  bat- 
tened and  nailed  down.  By  the  time  these  precautions 
had  been  taken,  our  approach  to  the  breakei's  only  left 
us  the  alternative  of  either  permitting  the  ships  to  be 
drifted  broadside  against  the  ice,  and  so  to  take  their 
chance,  or  of  endeavoring  to  force  faii!y  into  it  by  put- 
ting before  the  wind.  At  length,  the  hopeless  state  of 
a  vessel  placed  broadside  against  so  formidable  a  body 
became  apparent  to  all,  and  we  resolved  to  attempt 
the  latter  expedient." 

Eagerly,  but  in  vain,  was  the  general  line  of  the  pack 
scanned,  to  find  one  place  more  open  than  the  other. 
All  parts  appeared  to  be  equally  inij^enetrable,  and  to 
present  one  unbroken  line  of  furious  breakers,  in  which 
immense  pieces  of  ice  were  heaving  and  subsiding  with 
the  waves,  and  dashins;  losrether  with  a  violence  which 
nothing  apparently  but  a  solid  body  could  withstand, 
occasioning  such  a  noise  that  it  was  with  the  greatest 
difiiculty  the  officers  could  make  their  orders  heard  by 
the  crew. 

The  fearful  aspv-^ct  of  this  appalling  scene  is  thue 
sk'jtched  by  Captain  Beech ey  :  — 

"  No  language,  I  am  convinced,  can  convey  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  the  terrific  grandeur  of  the  effect  now  pro- 
duced by  the  collision  of  the  ice  and  the  tempestuous 
ocean.  The  sea,  violently  agitated  and  rolling  its  ni(oin- 
tainous  waves  against  an  opposing  body,  is  at  all  times 
a  sublime  and  awful  sight ;  but  when,  in  additiiai,  It 
encounters  immense  masses,  which  it  has  set  in  motion 
with  a  violence  equal  to  its  own,  its  effect  is  prodigi- 
ously incr(5ased.  At  one  moment  it  bursts  upon  these 
ic}^  fragments  and  buries  them  many  feet  beneath  its 
wave,  and  the  next,  as  the  buoyancy  of  the  depressed 
body  struggles  for  reascendancy,  the  water  rushes  in 
tbaming  cataracts   over  its  edges  ;  while  every  indi- 


i 


VOYAGE   OF   BUCIIAN    AND   FKANIvLIN. 


69 


pngtlis,  and 
wiiicli  Jiad 
with  soniQ 
1,  especially 
lie,  were  se- 
's  were  bat- 
precautions 
;rs  only  left 
ships  to  be 
L)  take  their 
0  it  by  put- 
ess  state  of 
ible  a  body 
to  attempt 

of  the  pack 
the  other, 
ble,  and  to 
's,  in  which 
siding  with 
ence  which 
withstand, 
s  greatest 
heard  by 


ne  is  thug 

ey  an  ade- 
now  pro- 
nipestuous 
its  moun- 
t  all  times 
dditi(.>n,  It 
in  motion 
s  prodigi- 
pon  these 
neath  its 
depressed 
rushes  in 
^ery  indi- 


« 


vidual  mass,  rocking  and  laboring  in  its  bed,  grinds 
igaiust  and  eontencls  with  its  opponent,  until  one  is 
e^.her  split  with  the  shock  or  upheavod  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  other.  Nor  is  this  collision  confined  to  any 
particular  spot ;  it  is  going  on  as  far  as  the  sight  can 
reach ;  and  when  from  this  convulsive  scene  below,  the 
eye  is  turned  to  the  extraordinary  appe.vi-ance  of  the 
blink  in  the  sky  above,  where  the  ur:iatural  clear- 
ness of  a  calm  and  silvery  atmosphere  presents  itself, 
bounded  by  a  dark,  hard  line  of  stormy  clouds,  such  as 
at  this  moment  lowered  over  our  masts,  as  if  to  mark 
the  confines  within  which  the  efibrts  of  man  would  be 
of  no  avail.  The  reader  may  imagine  the  sensation  of 
awe  which  must  accompany  that  of  grandeur  in  the 
mind  of  the  beholder." 

"If  ever,"  continues  the  narrator,  "the  fortitude  of 
seamen  was  tairly  tried,  it  was  assuredly  not  less  so  on 
this  occasion  ;  and  I  wdll  not  conceal  the  pride  I  felt  in 
witnessing  the  bold  and  decisive  tone  in  which  the 
orders  were  issued  by  the  commander  (the  present 
Captain  Sir  John  Franklin)  of  our  little  vessel,  and  the 
promptitude  and  steadiness  with  which  they  were  exe- 
cuted by  the  crew." 

As  the  laboring  vessel  flew  before  the  gale,  she  soon 
neared  the  scene  of  danger. 

"Each  person  instinctively  secured  bis  own  hold, 
and  with  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  masts,  awaited  in 
breathless  anxiety  the  moment  of  concussion. 

" It  soon  arrived,-— the  brig,  (Trent)  cutting  her  way 
throuo;h  the  light  ice,  came  in  violent  contact  with  the 
main  body.  In  an  instant  we  all  lost  onr  footing  ;  the 
masts  bent  with  the  impetus,  and  the  cracking  timbers 
from  below  bespoke  a  pressure  which  was  calculated  to 
awaken  our  serious  apprehensions.  The  vessel  stag- 
gered under  the  shock,  and  for  a  moment  seemed  to 
recoil ;  but  the  next  wave,  curling  up  under  her  coun- 
ter, drove  her  about  her  own  len^.;th  within  the  margin 
of  the  ice,  where  she  gave  one  roll,  and  was  immedi- 
ately thrown  broadside  to  the  wind  by  the  succeeding 
wave,  which  beat  furiously  against  her  stiirn,  and 
4  C 


! 


.lil 


■ 


^  I 


i 


li 


\l 


I ; 


60 


PROGRESS   OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


brought  her  iee-side  in  contact  with  the  main  body, 
leaving  her  weather-side  exposed  at  the  same  time  to 
a  piece  of  ice  about  twice  her  own  dimensions.  This 
unfortunate  occurrence  prevented  the  vessel  jienetrat- 
ing  sutiiciently  far  into  the  ice  to  escape  the  effect  of 
the  gale,  and  placed  her  in  a  situation  where  she  was 
assailed  on  all  sides  by  battering-rams,  if  I  may  use 
the  expression,  every  one  of  which  contested  the  small 
space  which  she  occupied,  and  dealt  such  unrelenting 
blows,  that  there  appeared  to  be  scarcely  any  possibil- 
ity of  saving  her  from  foundering.  Literalb  tossed 
from  piece  to  piece,  we  had  nothing  left  but  patiently 
to  abide  the  issue  ;  for  we  could  scarcely  keep  our  feet, 
much  less  render  any  assistance  to  the  vessel.  The  mo- 
tion, indeed,  was  so  great,  that  the  ship's  bell,  which,  in 
the  heaviest  gale  ot  wind,  had  never  struck  of  itself, 
now  tolled  so  continually,  that  it  was  ordered  to  be 
muffled,  for  the  purpose  of  escaping  the  unpleasant  as 
sociation  it  was  calculated  to  j^roduce. 

"  In  anticipation  of  the  worst,  we  determined  to  at 
tempt  placing  the  launch  upon  the  ice  under  the  lee, 
and  hurried  into  her  such  provisions  and  stores  as  could 
at  the  moment  be  got  at.  Serious  doubts  were  reason- 
ably entertained  of  the  boat  beii.g  able  to  live  among 
the  confused  mass  by  which  we  ^\  ere  encompassed;  yet 
as  this  appeared  to  be  our  only  refuge,  we  clung  to  it 
with  all  the  eagerness  of  a  last  resource." 

From  the  injury  the  vessel  repeatedly  received,  it 
became  very  evident  that  if  subjected  to  this  concus- 
sion for  any  time,  she  could  not  hold  together  long  ;  the 
only  chance  of  escape,  therefore,  appeared  to  depend 
upon  getting  before  the  wind,  and  penetrating  further 
into  the  ice. 

To  effect  this  with  any  probability  of  success,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  set  more  head-sail,  though  at  the 
risk  of  the  masts,  already  tottering  with  the  pressure 
of  that  which  was  spread.  By  the  expertness  of  the 
eeamen,  more  sail  was  spread,  and  under  this  additional 
pressure  of  canvass^  the  ship  came  into  the  desired 
position,  and  with  the  aid  of  an  enormous  mass  under 


!  i 


main  body, 
same  time  to 
Qsions.  Tiiis 
;sel  jDenetrat- 

the  effect  of 
here  she  was 
i'  I  may  use 
ted  the  small 
L  unrelenting 
any  possibil- 
eralb  tossed 
Dut  patiently 
Lcep  our  feet, 
el.  The  mo- 
)ell,  which,  in 
uck  of  itself, 
rdered  to  he 
npleasant  as 

•mined  to  at 
nder  the  lee, 
ores  as  could 
were  reason- 
live  among 
npassed;  yet 
1  clung  to  it 

received,  it 
this  concus- 
ler  long ;  the 
1  to  depend 
ting  further 

ccess,  it  be- 
ough  at  the 
;he  pressure 
tness  of  the 
is  additional 
the  desired 
mass  under 


VOYAOE    OF   nUOHAN    AND    FKAXKLIN". 


61 


the  stern,  she  split  a  small  field  of  ice,  fourteen  feet  in 
thickness,  wiiich  had  hitlierto  impeded   her  progress, 
and  effected  a  passage  for  herself  between  the  pieces. 
In  this  improved  position,  by  carefully  placing  the 
protecting  fenders  between  the  ice  and  the  sliip's  sides, 
I  the  strokes  were  much  diminished,  and  she  managed 
'to  weather  out  the  gale,  but  lost  sight  of  her  contort  in 
I  the  clouds  of  spray  which  were  tossed  about,  and  the 
?huire  intervenin":  masses  of  ice  amont!:  which  thev  were 
embayed.     On  the  gale  moderating,  the  ships  were  for- 
tunately got  once  more  into  an  open  sea,  although  both 
'  disabled,  and  one  at  least,  the  Dorothea,  which  had 
sustained  the  heavy  shocks,  in  a  foundering  condition. 
For  the  main  object  of  the  expedition  they  were  now 
useless,  and,  both  being  in  a  leaky  state,  they  bore  up 
for  Fair  Haven,  in  Spitzbergen.    In  approaching  the 
anchorage   in   South  Gat,  the  Trent   bounded  over  a 
sunken  rock,  and  struck  hard,  but  this,  after  their  re- 
cent danger,  was  thought  com.paratively  lif^ht  of. 

On  examining  the  hulls  of  the  vessels,  it  was  found 
they  liad  sustained  frightful  injuries.     The  intermediate 
lining  of  felt  between  the  timbers  and  planks  seems  to 
have  aided  greatly  in  enabling  the  vessels  to  sustain 
the  rej^eated  powerful  shocks  they  had  encountered. 
Upon  consulting  with  his  officers,  Captain  Buchan  came 
to  the  opinion  that  the  most  prudent  course,  was  to 
I  patch  up  the  vessels  for  their  return  voyage.     Lieuten- 
I  ant  Franklin  preferred  an  urgent  request  that  he  might 
;  be  allowed  to  proceed  in  his  own  vessel  upon  the  inter- 
esting service  still  unexecuted  ;  but  this  could  not  be 
complied  w^ith,  in  consequence  of  the  hazard  to  the 
crew  of  proceeding  home  singly  in  a  vessel  so  shat- 
jtered  and  unsafe  as  the  Dorothea.     After  refitting,  they 

Eut  to  sea  at  the  end  of  August,  and  reached  England 
y  the  middle  of  October. 

Fkanklin's  FmsT  Land  Expedition,  1819-21. 

In  1819,  on  the  recommendation  of  the  Lords  of    '  % 
Admiralty,  (Japt.  Franklin  was  a2)pointed  to  command 


'if 


62 


PROO^^ESS  OF  ARCl'lO   DISCOVERY. 


an  overland  expedition  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  north- 
ern  shores  of  America,  for  the  purpose  of  determining 
the  latitudes  and  longitudes,  and  exploring  the  coast  of 
the  continent  eastward  from  the  Coppermine  liiver.  Dr. 
John  Kichardson,  E.  N.,  and  two  Admiralty  Midship- 
men,  Mr.  George  Back,  (who  had  been  out  on  the  polar 
expedition,  in  the  previous  year,  in  H.  M.  S.  Trent,)  and 
Mr.  Robert  Hood,  were  placed  under  his  orders.  Pre- 
vious to  his  departure  from  London,  Capt.  Franklin  oh- 
tained  all  the  information  and  advice  possible  from  Sir 
Alex.  Mackenzie,  one  of  the  only  two  persons  wlio  had 
yet  explored  those  shores.  On  the  23d  of  May,  the  party 
embarked  at  Gravesend,  in  the  Prince  of  Wales,  belong- 
ing to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  immediately 
got  under  weigh  in  company  with  her  consorts,  the  Ed- 
dystone  and  Wear.  Mr.  Back,  who  was  left  on  shore  by 
accident  in  Yarmouth,  succeeded  in  catching  the  ship  at 
Stromness.  On  the  4th  of  August,  in  lat.  59^  58'  N., 
and  long.  59°  53'  W.,  they  first  fell  in  with  large  icebergs. 
On  the  following  day,  the  height  of  one  was  ascertained 
to  be  149  feet.  After  a  stormy  and  perilous  voyage  they 
reached  the  anchorage  at  York  Flats  on  the  30th  of 
August. 

On  the  9th  of  September,  Capt.  Franklin  and  his  party 
left  York  Factory  in  a  boat  by  the  way  of  the  rivers  and 
lakes  for  Cumberland  House,  another  of  the  Company's 
posts,  which  they  reached  on  the  22d  of  October. 

On  the  19th  of  January,  Franklin  set  out  in  company 
with  Mr.  Back  and  a  seaman  named  Hepburn,  with  pro- 
visions for  fifteen  days,  stowed  in  two  sledges,  on  their 
journey  to  Fort  Chipewyan.  Dr.  Richardson,  Mr.  Hood 
and  Mr.  ConoUy  accompanied  them  a  short  distance. 
After  touching  at  different  posts  of  the  Company,  they 
reached  their  destination  safely  on  the  26th  of  March, 
after  a  winter's  journey  of  857  miles.  The  greatest  diffi- 
culty experienced  by  the  travelers  was  the  labor  of  walk- 
ing in  snow  shoes,  a  weight  of  between  two  and  three 
pounds  being  constantly  attached  to  galled  feet  and 
swelled  ankles. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  they  were  joined  by  Dr.  Richard- 


[ly  to  the  north- 
3t'  determining 
ng  the  coast  oi' 
ine  lliver.  Dr. 
iralty  Midship- 
ut  on  the  polar 
;.  S.  Trent,)  and 
3  orders.  Pre- 
)t.  Franklin  ob- 
>ssible  from  Sir 
arsons  wlio  hud 
May,  the  party 
Wales,  belong- 
;h  immediately 
msorts,  the  Ed- 
left  on  shore  hy 
ling  the  ship  at 
lat.  59°  58'  N., 
1  large  icebergs, 
vas  ascertained 
us  voyage  they 
)n  the  30th  of 

Q  and  his  party 
'  the  rivers  and 
the  Company's 
October, 
lit  in  company 
)nrn,  with  pro- 
idges,  on  their 
son,  Mr.  Hood 
hort  distance. 
)ompany,  they 
6th  of  March, 
5  greatest  diffi- 
labor  of  walk- 
two  and  three 
lied  feet  and 

Dr.  Richard- 


KKAA'KMM's  first  LA^D  KXl'EDrriON. 


aa 


eon  and  Mr.  Hood,  who  had  made  a  very  expeditious 
journey  from  Cumberland  House;  they  had  only  one 
day's  provisions  left,  the  pemmican  they  had  received  at 
the  posts  being  so  mouldy  that  they  were  obliged  to  leave 
it  behind.  Arrangements  were  now  made  for  their  jour- 
ney northward.  Sixteen  Canadian  voyageurs  were  en- 
;  gaged,  and  a  Chipewyan  woman  and  two  interpreters 
were  to  be  taken  on  from  Great  Slave  Lake.  The  whole 
stock  of  provisions  they  could  obtain  before  starting  was 
only  sufficient  for  one  day's  supply,  exclusive  of  two  bar- 
rels of  flour,  three  cases  of  preserved  meats,  some  choco- 
late, arrow-root  and  portable  soup,  which  had  been 
brought  from  England,  and  were  kept  as  a  reserve  for  the 
journey  to  the  coast  in  the  following  season;  seventy 
pounds  of  deer's  flesh  and  a  little  barley  were  all  that 
the  Company's  ofticers  could  give  them.  The  provisions 
were  di-^trih-uted  among  three  canoes,  and  the  party  set 
ofli'  in  r  >  >d  sj)irits  on  the  18th  of  July.  They  had  to 
make  an  inroad  very  soon  on  their  preserved  meats,  for 
they  were  very  unfortunate  in  their  fishing.  On  the 
24th  of  July,  however,  they  were  successfid  in  shooting 
a  buflalo  in  the  Salt  River,  after  giving  him  fourteen 
balls.  At  Moose  Deer  Island  they  got  supplies  from 
the  Hudson's  Bay  and  North  West  Companies'  ofl^icers, 
and  on  the  2Tth  set  out  again  on  their  journey,  reaching 
Fort  Providence  by  the  29th. 

Shortly  after  they  had  an  interview  with  a  celebrated 
and  influential  Indian  chief,  named  Akaitcho,  who  was 
to  furnish  them  with  guides.  Another  Canadian  voya- 
geur  was  tliore  enp^aged,  and  the  party  now  consisted  of 
the  officers  already  named,  Mr.  Fred.  Wentzel,  clerk  of 
the  N.  W.  Fur  Company,  who  joined  them  here,  John 
Hepburn,  the  English  seaman,  seventeen  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs, (one  of  whom,  named  Michel,  was  an  Iroquois,) 
and  three  Indian  interpreters,  besides  the  wives  of  three 
of  the  voyageurs  who  had  been  brought  on  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  clothes  and  shoes  for  the  men  fit  the 
winter  establishment.  1  he  whole  number  were  twenty- 
nine,  exclusive  of  three  children.  I  give  the  list  of  those 
whose  names  occur  most  frequently  in  the  narrative: 


i 


(ill 


(1 


tl'lil 


64 


rK(.)GKi;bs  or  akctic  discoveky. 


J.  B.  Belanger,  Peltier,  Solomon  Eelanger,  Samandre, 
Beiioit,  Pentiiilt,  Antonio  Fontano,  Beauparlant,  Yail- 
lant,  Credit,  Adam  St.  Germain,  interpi-eter;  Augustus 
and  Junius,  Esquimaux  interpreters.  They  had  provis- 
ions for  ten  days'  cimsumption,  besides  a  little  chocolate 
and  tea,  viz  :  two  casks  of  flour,  200  dried  reindeer 
tongues,  some  dried  moose  meat,  portable  soup,  and  a 
little  arrow-root.  A  snudl  extra  canoe  was  provided  for 
the  women,  and  the  journey  foJ*  the  Coppermine  liiver 
was  commenced  on  the  ^d  of  August.  The  party  met 
with  many  hardships — were  placed  on  short  diet — and 
some  of  the  Canadians  broke  out  into  open  rebellion, 
refusing  to  proceed  farther.  However,  they  were  at  last 
calmed,  and  arrived  on  the  20th  of  August  at  Fort  En- 
terprise, on  Winter  Lake,  which,  by  the  advice  of  their 
Indian  guides,  they  determined  on  making  their  winter 
quarters.  The  total  length  of  the  voyage  from  Chipe- 
wyan  was  552  miles;  and  after  leaving  Fort  Providence, 
they  had  21  miles  of  portage  to  pass  over.  As  the  men 
had  to  traverse  each  portage  with  a  load  of  180  lbs., 
and  return  three  times  light,  they  walked,  in  the  whole, 
upward  of  150  miles. 

In  consequence  of  the  refusal  of  Akaitcho  and  his 
party  of  Indians  to  guide  and  accompany  them  to  the 
sea,  because,  as  they  alledged,  of  the  approach  of  wdn- 
ter,  and  the  imminent  danger.  Captain  Franklin  was 
obliged  to  abandon  proceeding  that  season  down  the 
river,  and  contented  himself  with  dispatching,  on  the 
29th,  Mr.  Back  and  Mr.  Hood,  in  a  light  canoe,  with 
St.  Germain  as  interpreter,  eight  Canadians,  and  one 
Indian,  furnished  wdth  eight  days' provisions  — all  that 
could  be  spared. 

!  They  returned  on  the  10th  of  September,  after  hav- 
ing reached  and  coasted  Point  Lake.  In  the  mean  time, 
Franklin  and  fJichardson,  accompanied  by  J.  Hepburn 
and  two  Indians,  also  made  a  pedestrian  excursion  tow- 
ard the  same  quarter,  leaving  on  the  9th  of  September, 
and  returning  on  the  fourteenth.  The  whole  party 
spent  a  long  winter  of  ten  months  at  Fort  Enterprise, 
depending  uprm  the  iish  they  could  catch,  and  the  sue 
cess  of  their  Indian  hunters,  for  food. 


3. 


i 

1 


I 

i 


::£■:■;  m; 


'■»■_ 


FKA^KIA.N  S    Fli;.-ir    LA.M)    EXPEDITION. 


G5 


,  Samandre, 
arlant,  Yail- 
r;  Augustus 
had  provis- 
lo  cliocolate 
ed  reindeer 
soup,  and  a 
)rovided  for 
mine  Kiver 
3  party  met 
t  diet— and 
1  rebellion, 
i^'ere  at  last 
at  Fort  En- 
ice  of  their 
heir  winter 
•om  Chipe- 
'rovidence, 
is  the  men 
)f  ISO  lbs., 
the  whole, 

o  and  his 
em  to  the 
ih  of  win- 
iklin  was 
down  the 
g,  on  the 
noe,  with 
and  one 
-  all  that 


On  the  6tli  ot'  October,  the  oflicer.^  (juitted  tlu.-ir  tents 
for  a  food  log  house  which  hud  been  built.  Tiie  ehiy 
witli  which  the  walls  and  roof  were  plastered,  had  to 
be  tempered  before  the  lire  with  water,  and  froze  j^s  it 
was  daubed  on  ;  l)nt  afterward  cracked  in  such  a  man- 
ner, as  to  admit  the  wind  from  every  quarter.  Still 
the  new  abode,  with  a  good  fire  of  fagots  in  the  capa- 
cious clay-built  chimney,  was  considered  quite  comfort- 
able wdien  compared  w'ith  the  chilly  tents. 

The  reindeer  are  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Copper- 
mine Kiver  early  ii-.  May,  as  they  then  go  to  the  sea- 
coast  to  bring  fort'a  their  young.  They  usually  retire 
from  the  coast  in  July  and  August,  rut  in  October,  and 
shelter  themselves  in  the  woods  during  winter.  Before 
the  middle  of  October,  the  carcasses  of  one  hundred 
deer  had  been  secured  in  their  store-house,  together  with 
one  thousand  pounds  of  suet,  and  some  dried  meat ; 
and  eighty  deer  were  stowed  aw^ay  at  various  distances 
from  their  house,  e?i  cache.  This  placing  provisions 
"  en  cache,"  is  merely  burying  and  protecting  it  from 
wolves  and  other  depredators,  by  heavy  loads  of  wood 
or  stone. 

On  the  18th  of  October,  Mr.  Back  and  Mr.  Wentzel, 
accompanied  by  two  Canadian  voyageurs,  two  Indians 
and  their  wives,  set  out  for  Fort  Providence  to  make 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  transporting  the  stores 
they  expected  from  Cumberland  House,  and  to  see  if 
some  further  supplies  might  not  be  obtained  from  the 
establishments  on  Slave  Lake.  Dispatches  for  Eng- 
land were  also  forwarded  by  them,  detailing  the  pro- 
gress of  the  expedition  up  to  this  date.  By  the  end  of 
the  month  the  men  had  also  completed  a  house  for 
themselves,  34  feet  by  18.  On  the  26th  of  October, 
Akaitcho,  and  his  Indian  party  of  hunters,  amounting 
withw^omen  and  children  to  forty  souls,  camejn,  owing 
to  the  deer  having  migrated  eouthw^ard.  This  addeu 
to  the  daily  number  to  be  provided  for,  and  by  this  time 
their  ammunition  was  nearly  expended. 

The  fishing  failed  as  the  weatiier  became  more  severe, 
and  was  given  up  on  the  5th  of  November.    About 


■<!' 


y  u;? 


mm 
if  m 


Ml 


66 


PKOOKICSS    OK    ARCTIC    DISCO VKRY. 


;iin  I 


1200  white  fish,  of  from  two  to  three  pounds,  liad  heon 
procured  duriun'  tlie  seiiKon.  The  iish  froze  as  tliev 
were  taken  from  the  nets,  becoming  in  a  short  time  a 
(Solid  mass  of  ice,  so  that  a  blow  or  two  of  the  hatchet 
would  easily  split  them  open,  when  tlie  intestines  miglit 
be  removed  in  one  lump.  If  thawed  before  the  hre, 
even  after  being  frozen  for  nearly  two  days,  the  fish 
would  recover  their  animation. 

On  the  23d  of  November,  they  were  gratified  by  the 
appearance  of  one  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  who  had 
set  out  with  Mr.  Back.  His  locks  were  matted  with 
enow,  and  he  was  so  encrusted  with  ice  from  head  to 
foot,  that  they  could  scarcely  recognize  him.  He  re- 
ported that  they  had  had  a  tedious  and  fatiguing  jour- 
ney to  Fort  Providence,  and  for  some  days  were  desti- 
tute of  provisions.  Letters  were  brought  from  England 
to  the  preceding  April,  and  quickly  Avas  the  packet 
thawed  to  get  at  the  contents.  The  newspapers  con- 
veye(^.  tha  intelligence  of  the  death  of  Geor^/elH.  The 
advices  as  to  the  expected  stores  were  disheartening ; 
of  ten  bales  of  ninety  pounds  v^ach,  five  had  been  lA'^, 
by  some  mismanagement  at  the  Qi'and  Rapid  on  t]iK) 
Sattkatchawan.  On  ihe  28tti  of  November,  St.  Ger- 
main the  interpreter,  with  eight  Canadian  voyageurs, 
and  four  Indian  hunters,  were  sent  off  to  bring  up  the 
stores  from  Fort  Providence. 

On  the  10th  of  December,  Franklin  managed  to  get 
rid  of  Akaitcho  and  his  Indian  party,  by  representing 
to  them  the  impossibility  of  naaintaining  them.  The 
leadei',  however,  left  them  his  mother  and  two  female 
attendants;  and  old  Kaskarrah,  the  guide,  with  his  wife 
and  daughter,  remained  behind.  This  daughter,  who 
was  designated  "  Green  Stockings,"  from  her  dress,  was 
considered  a  great  beauty  by  her  tribe,  rnd  although 
but  sixteen,  had  belonged  successively  to  two  husbands, 
and  would  probably  have  bren  the  wife  of  many  r.ore, 
if  her  mother  had  not  requi]  xl  her  services  as  a  nurse. 

Mr.  Hood  took  a  good  likeness  of  the  young  lady, 
but  her  mother  was  somev;iiat  averse  to  her  sitting'  for 
it,  fearing  that  "  her  daugl iter's  likeness  would  induce 


*m. 


<ls,  lijifl  hpoii 
■oze  as  tliev 
^bort  time  a 
'  the  Jiatchet 
stinos  might 
->re  the  tire, 
lys,  the  iish 

;ified  by  the 
irs  wlio  had 
nattcd  with 
)m  head  to 
m.    He  re- 
guing  jour- 
were  desti- 
m  England 
the  packet 
>apers  con- 
bIII.    The 
eartening ; 
f  been  l^i\ 
h'd  on  th^ 
St.  Ger- 
^ojagenrs, 
ng  np  the 

Ced  to  get 


FKANKLI.n's  FlUHT  LAND  EXriCniTION. 


07 


the  Great  Chief  who  resided  in  England  to  send  for  the 

Soriu'inall "  .  -,     ,  .      i 

'      the  diet  of  the  party  in  their  winter  abode  consisted 

almost  entirely  of  reindeer  meat,  varied  twice  a  week 

by  iish,  and  occasionally  by  a  little  Hour,  but  they  had 

'  no  vegetables  of  anv  kind.     On  Sunday  morning  they 

had  a  cup  of  chocolate  ;  but  their  greatest  luxury  was 

tea,  which  they  regularly  had  twice  a  day,  although 

without  sugar.     Candles  were  formed  of  reindeer  fat 

and  strips  of  cotton  sliirts;  and  Hepburn  acquired  con- 

siderable  skill  in  the  manufacture  of  soap  from  the  wood 

ashes,  fat  and  salt.     The  stores  were  anxiously  looked 

for,  and  it  was  hoped  they  would  have  arrived  by  New 

Year's  Day,  (1821,)  so  as  to  have  kept  the  festival.     As 

■  it  was,  they  could  only  receive  a  little  flour  and  fat,  both 

of  which  were  considered  great  luxuries. 

On  the  15th,  seven  of  the  men  arrived  with  two  kegs 
of  rum,  one  barrel  of  powder,  sixty  pounds  of  ball,  two 
rolls  of  tobacco,  and  some  clothing. 

"  They  had  been  twenty-one  days  on  their  march  from 
Slave  Lake,  and  the  labor  they  underwent  was  suffi- 
ciently evinced  by  their  sledge  collars  having  worn  oat 
the  shoulders  of  their  coats.  Their  loads  w^eighed  from 
sixty  to  ninety  pounds  each,  exclusive  of  their  bedding 
and  provisions,  which  at  starting  must  have  been  at  least 
as  nmch  more.  We  were  much  rejoiced  at  their  arrival, 
and  proceeded  forthwith  to  pierce  the  spirit  cask,  and 
issue  to  each  of  the  household  the  portion  of  rum  which 
had  been  promised  on  the  first  day  of  the  year.  The 
spirits,  which  were  proof,  were  frozen;  but  after  stand- 
ing at  the  fire  for  some  time  they  flowed  out,  of  the 
consistence  of  honey.  The  temperature  of  the  liquid, 
even  in  this  state,  was  so  low  as  instantly  to  convert 
into  ice  the  moisture  which  condensed  on  the  surface  of 
the  dram-glass.  The  fingers  also  adhered  to  the  glass, 
and  would  doubtless  have  been  speedily  frozen  had  they 
been  kept  in  contact  with  it ;  yet  each  of  the  voyageurs 
swallowed  his  dram  without  experiencing  the  slightest 
inconvenience,  or  complaining  of  toothache." 
It  apiieared  that  the  Canadians  had  tapped  the  rum- 

C* 


I 
1 


t.1 


1 


'■m 


ti 

i' 

V 


■i  i 


I'I 


I' if: 


08 


I'KOGUKaa  ()!••  aklik;  discuvluv. 


f,i 


r 


Hllil    ll'i 


m 


cask  on  tlicir  juuniey,  and  helped  themselves  rathor 
freely. 

On  the  2Tth,  Mr.  Wentzel  and  St.  Germain  arrived, 
witli  two  Esquimaux  interpreters  who  had  been  engaged, 
possessed  of  euphonious  names,  representing  the  belly 
and  the  ear,  but  which  had  been  Anglicised  into  Au- 
gustus and  Junius,  being  the  months  they  had  respec- 
tively arrived  at  Fort  Churchill.  The  former  spt)ke 
English.  They  brought  four  dogs  with  them,  which 
pj'oved  of  great  use  during  the  season  in  drawing  in 
wood  for  fuel. 

Mr.  Back,  at  this  time,  the  24th  of  December,  had 
gone  on  to  Chipewyan  to  procure  stores.  On  the  12th 
of  February,  another  party  of  six  men  was  sent  to  Fort 
Providence  to  bring  up  the  remaining  supplies,  and 
these  returned  on  the  5th  of  March.  Many  of  the  caches 
of  meat  which  had  been  buried  early  in  the  winter  were 
found  destroyed  by  the  wolves  ;  and  some  of  thtse  ani- 
mals prowled  nightly  about  the  dwellings,  even  vt:tur- 
ing  upon  the  roof  of  tlieir  kitchen.  The  rations  were 
reduced  from  eight  to  the  short  allowance  of  five  ounces 
of  animal  food  per  day. 

On  the  ITth  of  March,  Mr.  Back  returned  from  Fort 
Chipewyan,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  live  months, 
during  which  he  had  performed  a  journey  on  foot  of 
more  than  eleven  hundred  miles  on  snow  shoes,  with 
only  the  slight  shelter  at  night  of  a  blanket  and  a  deer 
ekin,  with  the  thermometer  frequently  at  40°  and  once 
at  57°,  and  very  often  passing  several  days  without 
food. 

Some  very  interesting  traits  of  generosity  on  the  part 
of  the  Indians  are  recorded  by  Mi'.  Back.  Often  they 
gave  up  and  would  not  taste  of  fish  or  birds  which  they 
caught,  with  the  touching  remark,  "  We  are  accustomed 
to  starvation,  and  you  are  not." 

Such  passages  as  the  following  often  occur  in  his 
narrative  : — "  One  of  our  men  caught  a  fish,  wdiich,  with 
Jhe  assistance  of  some  weed  scraped  from  the  rocks, 
(tri^^e  de  roohe)  which  forms  a  glutinous  substance,  made 
us  a  tolerable  sup])er :  it  was  not  of  the  most  choice  kind, 


'm 


i 


m 


fi;ankmn  s  Mi;sT  i.\ni>  Kxi'i:i>iTioN. 


60 


isclves  ratlicr 

main  arrived, 
been  engaged, 
;ing  the  ))elly 
ised  into  Au- 
y  had  respce- 
fonner  spoke 
them,  which 
in  drawing  in 

ecember,  had 

On  the  12th 

assent  to  Fort 

supplies,  and 

'  of  the  caches 

e  winter  were 

of  thtse  ani- 

even  vt:tiir- 

rations  were 

f  five  ounces 

ed  from  Fort 
five  months, 
y  on  foot  of 
shoes,  with 
t  and  a  deer 
0°  and  once 
ays  witJiout 

r  on  the  part 
Often  they 
5  which  they 
accustomed 

cur  in   his 

which,  with 

the  rockfl, 

ance,  made 

hoice  kind. 


AV'liiUi  wo  wore  eat- 


yet  good  enougli  tur  hungry  men. 
111. /it,  I  p.'rei'ived  oni-  of  tiie  women  I)u>ily  ein})l<>ye(l 
Fcrapiriii;  an  old  skin,  the  contents  of  wiiicii  her  husband 
]>rcsentr(l  us  with.  They  consisted  of  pounded  meat, 
fat,  and  a  greater  proportion  of  Indian's  and  deer's  hair 
than  either ;  and,  though  such  a  mixture  may  iu>t  appear 
verv  allurintr  to  an  English  stomach,  it  was  thought  a 


great  luxury  after  three  days'  privation  in  these  cheer- 
less reirions  of  America." 

"  On 

■'s 


To  return  to  the  proceedings  of  Fort  Enterprise.  Oi 
the  '2^(1  of  March,  the  last  of  the  winter's  stock  of  deer' 
meat  was  expended,  and  the  party  were  compelled  to 
consume  a  little  pounded  meat,  which  had  been  saved 
for  nuiking  pemmican.  The  nets  scarcely  produced  any 
fish,  and  tiieir  meals,  which  had  hitherto  been  scanty 
enough,  were  now  restricted  to  one  in  the  day. 

The  poor  Indian  families  about  the  house,  consisting 
principally  of  sick  and  infirm  women  and  children,  suf- 
fered even  more  })rivation.  They  cleared  away  the 
snow  on  the  site  of  the  Autumn  encampment  to  look  for 
bones,  deer's  feet,  bits  of  hide,  and  other  oftal.  J'  When 
(says  Franklin)  we  beheld  them  gnawing  the  pieces  of 
lii(ie,  and  pounding  the  bones  for  the  purpose  of  extract- 
ing st)me  nourishment  from  them  by  boiling,  we  regret- 
ted our  inability  to  relieve  them,  but  little  thought  that 
we  should  ourselves  be  afterward  driven  to  the  neces- 
sity of  eagerly  collecting  these  same  bones,  a  second 
time  from  the  dung-hill." 

On  the  4th  of  June,  1821,  a  first  party  set  off  from 
the  winter  quarters  for  Point  Lake,  and  the  Coppermine 
River,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  Richardson,  consisting, 
in  all,  voyageurs  and  Indians,  of  twenty -three,  exclusive 
of  children.  Each  of  the  men  carried  about  80  lbs.,  be- 
sides his  own  personal  baggage,  weighing  nearly  as 
much  more.  Some  of  the  party  dragged  their  loads  on 
sledges,  others  preferred  carrying  their  burden  on  their 
backs.  On  the  13th,  Dr.  Richardson  sent  back  most  of 
the  men  ;  and  on  the  14th  Franklin  dispatched  Mr. 
"Wentzel  and  a  party  with  the  canoes,  which  had  been 
repaired.    Following  the  water-course  as  far  as  practi- 


I 


I ''I 


'1 

i  1! 


\f 


70 


VKOGREf^S   OF    AJiCTIC    DISCiJVKUY. 


llinr.'i 


cable  to  Wintor  Lake,  Franklin  tnllowed  himself  with 
lli'phurn,  thi'ee  Canadians,  two  In«lian  Imntei's,  and 
the  two  K8(|uiinaux,  and  joined  Dr.  liicliardson  on  tlie 
2lid.  On  the  2.")th  they  all  resuineil  their  Journey,  and, 
as  they  proceeded  (h.>wn  the  river,  were  t'urtunute  iii 
killing,  occasionally,  neveral  musk  oxen. 

On  the  15th  they  got  a  distinct  view  of  the  sea  from 
the  summit  of  a  hill  ;  it  appeared  choked  with  ice  and 
full  of  islands.  About  this  time  they  fell  in  with  small 
parties  of  Escinimanx. 

On  the  19th  Mr.  Wentzel  de})arted  on  his  return  for 
Slave  I>iike,  taking  with  him  four  Canadians,  who  had 
been  discharged  for  the  purpose  of  reducing  the  ex})en- 
diturc  of  provisions  as  much  as  pos8il>le,  and  dispatches 
to  be  forwarded  to  England.  He  was  also  instructed 
to  cause  the  Indians  to  deposit  a  relay  of  provisions  at 
Foi-t  Enterprise,  ready  for  the  party  should  they  return 
that  way.  The  remainder  of  the  party,  including  olH- 
cers,  amounted  to  twenty  persons.  The  distance  that 
had  been  traversed  from  1  ort  Enterprise  to  the  mouth 
of  the  river  was  about  334  miles,  and  the  canoes  had  to 
be  dragged  120  miles  of  this. 

Two  conspicuous  capes  were  named  by  Franklin  after 
Heame  and  Mackenzie  ;  and  a  river  which  falls  into  the 
5ea,  to  the  westward  of  the  Coppermine,  he  called  after 
his  companion,  Kichardson. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  Franklin  and  his  party  embarked 
in  their  two  canoes  to  navigate  the  Polar  Sea,  to  the 
eastward,  having  with  them  provisions  for  fifteen  days. 

On  the  25th  they  doubled  a  bluff  cape,  which  was 
named  after  Mr.  Barrow,  of  the  Admiralty.  An  open- 
ing on  its  eastern  side  received  the  appellation  of  Inman 
Harbor,  and  a  group  of  islands  were  called  after  Pro- 
fessor Jameson.  Within  the  next  fortnight,  additions 
were  made  to  their  stock  of  food  by  a  few  deer  and  one 
or  two  bears,  which  were  shot.  iBeing  less  fortunate 
afterward,  and  with  no  prospect  of  increasing  their  sup- 
ply of  provision,  the  daily  allowance  to  eac*li  man  was 
limited  to  a  liandful  of  pemmican  and  a  small  portion 
of  portable  soup. 


■  *  I 

I 


i 
I 

I 


fkankI'In's  fikst  land  expedition. 


7i 


liiMiself  with 
liuiitors,  and 
nlsoii  (HI  tlie 
jouriu'v,  and, 
fortunute  in 

the  sea  fVum 
with  iee  and 
u  with  small 

is  return  for 
ns,  who  had 
^  the  exjK'ii- 
d  dispatches 
0  instructed 
)rovi8ions  at 
they  return 
eluding  otK- 
istance  that 
p  the  mouth 
noes  had  to 

anklin  after 
iills  into  the 
called  after 

7  embarked 
Sea,  to  the 
fteen  days, 
which  was 
An  open- 
of  Inman 
after  Pro- 
additions 
er  and  one 
fortunate 
their  sup- 
man  was 
11  portion 


f 


v^ff 


On  the  morninn;  of  the  r>t}i  of  August  they  came  to 
the  mouth  of  a  river  blocked  ui)  with  shoals,  which 
Fninklin  named  after  his  friend  and  companion  P>ack. 

The  time  spent  in  exploring  Arctic  and  Melville 
Sounds  and  Bathurst  Iidet,  and  the  failure  of  meeting 
with  Escpiimaux  from  whom  provisions  coidd  he  ol>- 
tained,  precluded  any  possibility  of  reaching  K^'pulse 
liay,  and  therefore  having  but  a  day  or  two's  provisions 
left,  Franklin  considered  it  ])rudent  to  turn  back  atler 
reaching  Point  Turnagain,  havin«r  sailed  nearly  GUO 
geogra[)hical  miles  in  tracing  the  cleeply  indented  coast 
of  ('orc»nation  Gulf  from  the  Coppermine  River.  On 
tl»e  2lM  August,  the  return  voyage  was  commenced, 
the  boats  making  for  Hood's  Kiver  by  the  way  of  the 
Arctic  Sound,  and  bein^^  taken  as  far  up  the  stream  as 
possible.  On  the  31st  it  was  found  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed with  them  farther,  and  smaller  canoes  were  made, 
suitable  for  crossing  any  of  the  rivers  that  might  ob- 
ptiMict  their  progress.  The  weight  carried  by  each  man 
was  about  90  lbs.,  and  with  this  they  progressed  at  the 
rate  of  a  mile  an  hour,  including  rests. 

On  the  r»th  of  September,  having  nothing  to  eat,  the 
last  piece  of  pennnican  and  a  little  arrow-root  having 
formed  a  scanty  supper,  and  being  without  the  means 
of  making  a  fire,  they  remained  in  bed  all  day.  A  se- 
vere snow-storm  lasted  two  days,  and  the  snow  even 
drifted  into  their  tents,  covering  their  blankets  several 
inches.  "  Our  suffering  (says  Iranklin)  from  cold,  in  a 
comfortless  canvass  tent  in  such  weather,  with  the  tem- 
oerature  at  20°,  and  without  fire,  will  easily  be  im- 
agined ;  it  was,  however,  less  than  that  which  we  felt 
from  hunger." 

Weak  from  fasting,  and  their  garments  stiffened  with 
the  frost,  after  packing  their  frozen  tents  and  bedclothes 
the  poor  travelers  again  set  out  on  the  7th. 

After  feeding  almost  exclusively  on  several  species 
of  Gyrophora,  a  Kjhen  known  as  tr^pe  de  roche,  which 
scarcely  allayed  the  pangs  of  hunger,  on  the  lOtli  "  they 
got  a  good  meal  by  killing  a  musk  ox.  To  skin  and 
cut  up  the  animal  was  the  work  of  a  few  minutes.    Tlie 


h  'fl 


72 


PROGRESS    OF    AIVCTTIC   DISCOVERY. 


li, 


I 


ill ' 


I 


contents  of  its  stomach  were  devoured  upon  the  spot, 
and  the  raw  intestines,  which  were  next  attacked,  wei'o 
pronounced  by  the  most  delicate  amongst  us  to  be  ex- 
cellent." 

AVearied  and  worn  out  with  toil  and  sufiering,  many 
o't  the  party  got  careless  and  indifferent.  One  of  the 
canoes  was  broken  and  abandoned.  With  an  improvi- 
dence scarcely  to  be  credited,  three  of  the  iishing-nets 
were  also  thrown  away,  and  tlie  floats  burnt. 

On  the  17th  they  managed  to  allay  the  pangs  of  hun- 
ger by  eating  pieces  of  singed  hide,  and  a  little  t/'ipe  de 
roche.  This  and  some  mosses,  with  an  occasional  sol- 
itary partridge,  formed  their  invariable  food ;  on  very 
many  days  even  this  scanty  supply  could  not  be  obtained, 
and  their  appetites  became  ravenous. 

Occasionally  they  picked  up  pieces  of  skin,  and  a 
few  bonca  of  deer  which  had  been  devoured  by  the 
wolve^'  in  the  previous  spring.  The  bones  were  ren- 
dered fria])le  by  burning,  aiid  now  and  then  their  old 
shoes  "Vvere  added  to  the. repast. 

On  the  26th  they  reached  a  bend  of  the  Coppermine, 
which  terminated  in  Point  Lake.  The  second  canoe 
had  been  demolished  and  abandoned  by  the  b^^arers  on 
the  23d,  and  they  were  thus  left  without  any  means  of 
water  transport  across  the  lakes  and  river. 

On  this  day  th.e  carcass  of  a  deer  was  discovered  in 
the  cleft  of  a  rock,  into  which  it  had  fallen  in  the  spring. 
It  was  putrid,  but  little  less  acceptal)le  to  the  poor  starv- 
ing travelers  on  that  account ;  and  a  fire  being  kin- 
dled a  large  portion  was  devoured  on  the  spot,  afford- 
ing an  unexpected  breakfast. 

On  the  first  of  October  one  of  the  party,  who  had 
been  out  hunting,  brought  in  the  antlers  and  backbone 
of  another  deer,  which  had  been  killed  in  the  summer. 
The  wolves  and  birds  of  prey  had  picked  them  clean, 
but  there  still  remained  a  quantity  of  the  spinal  mar- 
row, which  they  had  not  been  able  to  extract.  This, 
although  putrid,  was  ester  med  a  valuable  prize,  and 
the  spine  being  divided  into  portions  was  distributed 
equally.     *'  After  eating  the  mai-roAv,  (says  Franklin,) 


'■m 


'Ili-!i 


:y. 


[X)u  the  spot, 
ttacked,  wej-o 
;  us  to  be  ex- 

Bering,  many 
One  of  the 
lan  improvi- 
J  iishing-nets 
nt. 

•angs  of  hun- 
ittle  tripe  de 
casional  sol- 
od ;  on  very 
be  obtained, 

skin,  and  a 
iired  by  the 
23  were  ren- 
en  their  old 


oppermine, 

cond  canoe 

bearers  on 

y  means  of 

^covered  in 
the  spring, 
poor  starv- 
being  kin- 
pot,  afford- 

',  wlio  had 
backbone 
e  summer, 
em  clean, 
)inal  mar- 
ict.  This, 
prize,  and 
istribr.ted 
Franklin,) 


franklin's  first  land  EXr edition. 


73 


J 


m 


which  was  so  acrid  as  to  excoriate  the  lips,  we  ren- 
dered the  bones  friable  by  buaiing,  and  ate  thein  also." 

The  strength  of  the  whole  party  now  began  to  fail, 
from  the  privation  and  fatigue  which  they  endured.— 
Franklin  was  in  a  dreadfully  debilitated  state.  Mr. 
liood  was  also  reduced  to  a  perfect  shadow,  from  the 
severe  ])Owel-complaiHts  which  the  tripe  de  roche  never 
failed  to  give  him.  Back  was  so  feeble  as  to  require 
the  support  of  a  stick  in  walking,  and  Dr.  Kichardson 
had  lameness  superadded  to  weakness. 

A  rude  canoe  was  constructed  of  willows,  covered 
with  canvass,  in  which  the  party,  one  by  one,  managed 
to  reach  in  safety  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  on 
the  4th  of  October,  and  went  supperless  to  bed.  On 
the  following  morning,  previous  to  setting  out,  the 
whole  party  ate  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and 
whatever  scraps  of  leather  they  had,  to  strergthen  their 
stomachs  for  the  fatigue  of  the  day's  journey. 

jMr.  Hood  novr  broke  down,  as  did  two  or  three  more 
of  the  party,  and  Dr.  Eichardson  kindly  volunteered 
to  remain  with  them,  while  the  rest  pushed  on  to  Fort 
Enterprise  for  succor.  Not  being  able  to  iind  any  tripe 
de  roche ^  they  drank  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea- 
plant  {Lcdrurn  palustre^  var.  decu?nhe7is,)  and  ate  a 
few  morsels  of  burnt  leather  for  supper.  This  contin- 
ued to  be  a  frequent  occurrence. 

Others  of  the  party  continued  to  drop  down  with  fa- 
tigue and  weakness,  until  they  were  reduced  to  five 
persons,  besides  Franklin.  When  they  had  no  food  or 
nourishment  of  any  kind,  they  crept  under  their  blank- 
ets, to  drown,  if  possible,  the  gnawing  pangs  of  hunger 
and  fatigue  by  sleep.  At  length  they  reached  Fort  En- 
terpiise,  and  to  their  disappointment  and  grief  found 
it  a  perfectly  desolate  habitation.  There  was  no  de- 
posit of  provision,  no  trace  of  the  Indians,  no  letter 
from  Mr.  "VVentzel  to  point  out  where  the  Indians  might 
be  found.  "It  would  be  impossible  (says  Franklin,)  to 
describe  our  sensations  after  entering  this  miserable 
abode,  nnd  discovering  how  we  had  been  neglected  : 
the  whole  party  shed  tears,  not  so  much  for  our  own 


ill 


!?( 


I: 


I-  1  . 


74 


PKUWRESS   OF  ARCrnO   DISCOVERY. 


Hi!! 


'!  if 


fate  as  for  that  of  our  friends  in  the  rear,  whose  lives 
depended  entirely  on  our  sending  immediate  relief 
from  this  place."  A  note,  however,  was  found  here 
from  Mr.  Back,  stating  that  he  had  reached  the  house 
by  another  route  two  days  before,  and  was  going  in 
search  of  the  Indians.  If  he  was  unsuccessful  in  hnd- 
ing  them,  he  proposed  walking  to  Fort  Providence, 
and  sending  succor  from  thence,  but  he  doubted  whether 
he  or  his  party  could  perform  the  journey  to  that  place 
in  their  present  debilitated  state.  Franklin  and  his 
small  party  now  looked  round  for  some  means  of  pres- 
ent subsistence,  and  fortunately  discovered  several  deer 
skins,  which  had  been  thrown  away  during  their  former 
residence  here.  The  bones  were  gathered  from  the 
heap  of  ashes ;  these,  with  the  skins  and  the  addition 
of  tvlpe  dc  Toche^  they  considered  would  support  life 
tolerably  well  for  a  short  time.  The  bones  were  quite 
acrid,  and  the  soup  extracted  from  them,  quite  putrid, 
excoriiited  the  mouth  if  taken  alone;,  but  it  was  some- 
what milder  wiien  boiled  with  the  lichen,  and  the  mix- 
ture was  even  deemed  palatable  with  a  little  salt,  of 
which  a  cask  had  been  left  here  in  the  spring.  They 
procured  fuel  by  pulling  up  the  flooring  of  the  rooms, 
and  water  for  cooking  by  melting  the  snow. 

Augustus  arrived  safe  after  them,  just  as  they  were 
sitting  round  the  fire  eating  their  supper  of  singed 
skin. 

Late  on  the  13th,  Belanger  also  reached  the  house, 
with  a  note  from  Mr.  Back,  stating  that  he  had  yet 
found  no  trace  of  the  Indians.  The  poor  messenger 
was  almost  speechless,  being  covered  with  ice  and 
nearly  frozen  to  death,  having  fallen  into  a  rapid,  and 
for  the  third  time  since  the  party  left  the  coast,  narrowly 
escaped  drowning.  After  being  well  rubbed,  having 
had  his  dress  changed,  and  some  warm  soup  given 
him,  he  recovered  suflicieutly  to  answer  the  t^  ^estions 
put  to  him. 

Under  the  impression  that  the  Indians  must  be  on 
their  way  to  Fort  I'rovidence,  and  that  it  would  he 
possible  to  overtake  them,  as  they  usually  traveled 


n 


■Vi  ih 


;v. 

r,  whose  lives 
lediate  relief 
18  found  here 
hed  the  house 
was  goin^  in 
esst'iil  in  lind- 
:  Providence, 
ibted  whether 
to  that  place 
iklin  and  his 
lears  of  pres- 
l  several  deer 
^  their  former 
red  from  the 
the  addition 
support  life 
BS  were  quite 
quite  putrid, 
it  was   some- 
and  the  niix- 
iittle  salt,  of 
)ring.     Tliey 
►f  the  rooms, 

V. 

IS  they  were 
er  of  singed 

the  house, 
he  had  jet 

messenger 
th  ice  and 
I  rapid,  and 
st,  narrowly 
bed,  having 
soun  given 
e  (^  .estions 

must  be  on 
would  he 
\y  traveled 


franklin's  first  land  expedition. 


75 


k' 


bIowIv  with  their  families,  and  there  being  likewise  a 
prospect  of  killing  deer  about  Keindeer  J.tike,  where 
they  had  been  usually  found  abundant,  Franklin  de- 
termined to  take  the  route  for  that  post,  and  sent  word 
to  Mr.  Back  by  Belanger  to  that  effect  on  the  18th. 

On  the  20th  of  October,  Franklin  set  out  in  com- 
pany with  Benoit  and  Augustus  to  seek  relief,  having 
patched  three  pairs  of  snow  shoes,  and  taken  some 
singed  skin  for  their  support.  Poltier  and  Samandre 
had  volunteered  to  remain  at  the  house  with  Adam, 
who  was  too  ill  to  proceed.  They  were  so  feeble  as 
scarcely  to  be  able  to  move.  Augustus,  the  Esqui- 
maux, tried  for  ilsh  without  success,  so  that  their  only 
fare  was  skin  and  tea.  At  night,  composing  them- 
selves to  rest,  they  lay  close  to  each  other  for  warmth, 
but  found  the  night  bitterly  cold,  and  the  wind  pierced 
through  their  famished  frames. 

On  resuming  the  journey  next  morning,  Franklin 
had  the  misfortune  to  break  his  snow-shoes,  by  falling 
between  two  rocks.  This  accident  prevented  him  from 
kef  ping  pace  with  the  others,  and  in  the  attempt  he 
b  icame  quite  exhausted  ;  unwilling  to  delay  their  pro- 
(i^ress,  as  the  cafety  of  all  behind  depended  on  their 
obtaining  early  assistance  and  immediate  supplies, 
Franklin  resolved  to  turn  back,  while  the  others 
pushed  on  to  meet  Mr.  Back,  or,  missing  him,  they 
were  directed  to  proceed  to  Fort  Providence.  Frank- 
lin found  the  two  Canadians  he  had  lefu  at  the  house 
dreadfully  weak  and  reduced,  and  so  low  spirited  that 
he  had  great  difficulty  in  rallying  them  to  any  exer- 
tion. As  the  insides  of  their  mouths  had  become  sore 
from  eating  the  bone-soup,  they  now  relinquished  the 
use  of  it,  and  boiled  the  skin,  which  mode  of  dressing 
was  found  more  palatable  than  frying  it.  They  had 
pulled  down  nearly  all  their  dwelling  for  fuel,  to  warm 
themselves  and  cook  their  scanty  meals.  The  tripe 
de  roche^  on  which  they  had  depended,  now  became 
entirely  frozen;  and  what  was  more  tantalizing  to 
their  perishing  frames,  was  the  sight  of  food  within 
their  reach,  which  they  could  not  procure.     "  We  saw 

5 


ii  I 


76 


PKOGKESS   OF   AKCl'IC    DISCOVERY. 


:  :  \]'  r 


It  'il'^ 


ill  'in 


(says  Franklin)  a  herd  of  reindeer  sportlnj^  on  tho 
river,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  house  ;  they  re- 
mained there  a  long  time,  but  none  of  the  party  felt 
themselves  strong  enough  to  go  after  them,  nor  was 
there  one  of  us  who  could  have  lired  a  gun  without 
resting  it." 

While  they  were  seated  round  the  fire  this  eveninir, 
discoursing  about  the  anticipated  relief,  tho  sound  of 
voices  was  heard,  which  was  thought  with  joy  to  be 
that  of  the  Indians,  but,  to  their  bitter  disappoint- 
ment, the  debilitated  frames  and  emaciated  counte- 
nances of  Dr.  liichardson  and  Hepburn  presented 
thenit^elves  at  the  door.  Tlicy  were  of  course  gladly 
received,  although  each  marked  the  ravages  which  fam- 
ine, care  and  fatigue  had  made  on  the  other.  The 
Doctor  particularly  remarked  the  sepulchral  tone  of 
the  voices  of  his  friends,  which  he  rec^uested  them  to 
make  more  cheerful  if  possible,  unconscious  that  his 
own  partook  of  the  same  key. 

Hepburn  having  shot  a  ])artridge,  which  was  brought 
to  the  house.  Dr.  Richardson  tore  out  the  feathers, 
and  having  held  it  to  the  lire  a  few  minutes,  divided 
it  into  six  portions.  Franklin  and  his  three  compan- 
ions ravenously  devoured  their  shares,  as  it  was  the 
first  morsel  of  flesh  any  of  them  had  tasted  for  thirty- 
one  days,  unless,  indeed,  the  small  gristly  particles 
which  they  foucd  adhering  to  the  pounded  bones  may 
be  termed  flesh.  Their  spirits  were  revived  by  this 
small  supply,  and  the  Doctor  endeavored  to  raise 
them  still  higher  by  the  prospect  of  Hepburn's  beini,' 
able  to  kill  a  deer  next  day,  as  they  had  seen,  and 
even  fired  at,  several  near  the  house.  He  endeavored, 
too,  to  rouse  them  into  some  attention  to  the  comfort 
of  their  apartment.  Having  brought  his  Prayer-book 
and  Testament,  some  prayers,  psalms,  and  portions 
of  scripture,  appropriate  to  tlieir  situation,  were  read 
out  by  Dr.  Hichardson,  and  they  retired  to  their 
blankets. 

Early  next  morning,  the  Doctor  and  Hepburn  went 
out  in  search  of  game ;  but  though  they  saw  several 


FRANKLIN  8   FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


77 


)rtiiii^  on  tho 
se  ;  thoy  re- 
the  party  felt 
Jem,  nor  was 
gun  without 

this  evenins:^, 
tlio  sound  of 
ith  joy  to  be 
r  disappoint- 
iated  counte- 
irn  presented 
course  gladly 
es  which  fam- 

other.  Tlie 
chral  tone  of 
isted  them  to 
sious  that  his 

1  was  brought 

the  feathei's, 

utes,  divided 

iree  compan- 

s  it  was  the 

Bd  for  thirty- 

tly  particles 

d  bones  may 

ived  by  tliis 

red    to  raise 

turn's  beini: 

d  seen,  and 

endeavored, 

the  comfort 

rayer-book 

nd  i)ortioiis 

were  I'ead 

)d    to   their 

]>burn  went 
saw  sev(;nil 


herds  of  deer,  and  fired  some  shots,  they  were  not  so 
fortunate  as  to  kill  any,  being  too  weak  to  hold  their 
guns  steadily.  The  cold  compelled  the  former  to  re- 
§  turn  soon,  but  Hepburn  perseveringly  persisted  until 
late  in  the  evening. 

"  My  occupation,  (continues  Franklin)  was  to  search 
for  skins  under  the  snov/,  it  being  now  our  object  im- 
I  mediately  to  get  all  that  we  could  ;  but  I  had  not 
'§  strength  to  drag  in  more  than  two  of  those  which  were 
;^  within  twenty  yards  of  the  house,  until  the  Doctor 
%  came  and  assisted  me.     We  made  up  our  stock  to 
I  twenty-six ;    but  several  of  them  were  putrid,  and 
^  scarcely  eatable,  even  by  men  suffering  the  extremity 
I  of  famine.      Peltier  and  Samandrc  continued  veiy 
I  weak  and  dispirited,  and  they  were  unable  to  out  fire- 
i  wood.     Hepburn  had,  in  consequence,  that  laborious 
;|  task  to  perlbrni  after  ho  came  back  late  fi'oni  hunting." 
;^To  tlie  exertions,  honesty,  kindness,  and  consideration 
f  of  this  worthy  man,  the  safety  of  most  of  the  party  is 
''-:  to  be  attributed.     And  I  may  here  mention  that  Sir 
tTohn  Franklin,  when  he  became  governor  of  Van 
Diemen's  Land,  obtained  for  him  a  good  civil  appoint- 
.  ment.     This  deserving  man,  I  an^  informed  by  Mr. 
^  Barrow,  is  now  in  England,  having    lost  his  office, 
'which,  I  believe,  has  been  abolished.      It  is  to  be 
hoi)ed  something  will  be  done  for  him  by  the  govern- 
ment. 

After  their  usual  supper  of  singed  skin  and  bone 
soup,  Dr.  Kichardson  acquainted  Franklin  with  the 
events  that  had  transpired  since  their  parting,  particu- 
larly with  the  afflicting  circumstances  attending  tho 
death  of  Mr.  Hood,  and  Michel,  the  Iroquois  ;  the  par- 
ticulars of  which  I  shall  noiv  proceed  to  condense  from 
his  nairativo. 

After  Captain  Franklin  had  bidden  them  farewell, 
[having  no  tripe  de  roche  they  drank  an  infusion  of  the 
ountry  tea-plant,  which  was  grateful  from  its  warmth, 
Ithough  it  afforded  no  sustenance.  They  tlu^n  retired 
o  bed,  and  kept  to  their  blankets  all  next  day,  as  the 
iu>w  drift  was  so  heavy  as  to  prevent  their  lighting  a 


% 


■>x 


T8 


PROGUKSS    OF   AUCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


!'i'»l'  .1 


il!i!| 


lii  'i  -J 


[,■■ 


fire  with  the  green  and  frozen  willows,  which  were 
their  onlv  fuel. 

Through  the  extreme  kindness  and  forethought  of 
a  lady,  tiie  party,  previous  to  leaving  Londcju,  had 
l)eeii  furnished  with  a  small  collection  of  religious 
books,  of  which,  (says  Richardson,)  we  still  retained 
two  or  three  of  the  most  portable,  and  they  proved  of 
incalculable  beneiit  to  us. 

"  We  read  portions  of  them  to  each  other  as  we  lay 
in  bed,  in  addition  to  the  morning  and  evening  service, 
and  found  that  they  inspired  us  on  each  perusal  with 
80  strong  a  sense  of  the  omnipresence  of  a  beneficent 
God,  that  our  situation,  even  in  these  wilds,  appeared 
no  longer  destitute ;  and  we  conversed  not  only  with 
calmness,  but  with  cheerfulness,  detailing  with  unre- 
strained confidence  the  past  events  of  our  lives,  and 
dwelling  with  hope  on  our  future  prospects."  How 
beautiful  a  picture  have  we  here  represented,  of  true 
piety  and  resignation  to  the  divine  will  inducing  pa- 
tience and  submission  under  an  unexampled  load  of 
misery  and  privation. 

Michel,  the  Iroquois,  joined  them  on  the  9th  of  Oc- 
tober, having,  there  is  strong  reason  to  believe,  mur- 
dered two  of  the  Canadians  who  were  with  him,  Jean 
Ba})tiste  Belanger  and  Perrault,  as  they  were  never 
seen  afterward,  and  he  gave  so  many  rambling  and 
contradictory  statements  of  his  proceedings,  that  no 
credit  could  be  attached  to  bis  story. 

The  travelers  proceeded  on  their  tedious  journey  by 
slow  stages.  Mr.  Hood  was  much  afi*ected  with  dim 
ness  of  sight,  giddiness,  and  other  symptoms  of  ex 
trenie  debility,  which  caused  them  to  move  slowly  and 
to  make  frequent  halts.  Michel  absented  himself  all 
day  of  the  10th,  and  only  arrived  at  their  encampment 
near  the  pines  late  on  the  11th. 

He  reported  that  he  had  been  in  chase  of  some  deer 
whicli  ])a8sed  near  his  sleeping  place  in  the  morning, 
and  although  he  did  not  come  up  with  them,  yet  he 
tl'und  a  wolf  which  had  been  killed  bv  the  stroke  of 
a  (Iter's  burn,  and  had  brought  a  i)art  of  it. 


lY. 

,  which  were 

brethoiiglit  of 
LondtH],  had 
of  religious 
still  retained 
ley  2)rovod  of 

her  as  we  lay 
3niiig  service, 
perusal  with 
a  beneficent 
ds,  appeared 
lot  only  with 
g  with  unre- 
ur  lives,  and 
ects."  How 
uted,  of  true 
inducing  pa- 
ipled  loud  of 

e  9th  of  Oc- 
elieve,  mur- 
h  hini,  Jean 
were  never 
mbling  and 
ngs,  that  no 

journey  hy 
1  with  dim 
toms  of  ex 
J  slowly  and 

himself  all 
icampmenfc 

some  deer 
e  morning, 
em,  yet  he 
e  stroke  of 


FKANKIJN  8   FIRST   LAND    EXl'KDITION. 


79 


:i'/> 


Eichardson  adds  —  "We  im[)licitly  believed  this 
\  litory  then,  but  afterward  became  aware  —  from  cir- 
■  cunistances,  the  details  of  which  may  be  spared — that 
it  must  have  been  a  portion  of  the  body  of  Bel  anger, 
or  Perrault.  A  question  of  moment  here  presents  it- 
eel  f —  namely,  whether  he  actually  murdered  these 
men,  or  either  of  them,  or  whether  he  found  the  bodies 
in  the  snow.  Captai'.i  Franklin,  who  is  the  best  able  to 
judge  of  this  matter,  from  knowing  their  situation  when 
no  parted  from  them,  suggested  the  former  idea,  and 
that  both  these  men  had  been  sacrificed  ;  that  Michel, 
having  already  destroyed  Belanger,  completed  his 
crime  by  Perrault's  death,  in  order  to  screen  himself 
from  detection." 

Although  this  opinion  is  founded  only  on  eircum- 
Btances,  and  is  unsupported  by  direct  evidence,  it  has 
been  judged  proper  to  mention  it,  especially  as  the 
subsequent  conduct  of  the  man  showed  that  he  was 
capable  of  committing  such  a  deed.  It  is  not  easy  to 
assign  any  other  adequate  motive  for  his  concealing 
from  Richardson  that  Perrault  had  turned  back;  while 
his  request,  over-night,  that  they  would  leave  him  the 
hatchet,  and  his  cumbering  himself  with  it  when  he 
went  out  in  the  morning,  unlike  a  hunter,  who  makes 
use  only  of  his  knife  when  he  kills  a  deer,  seem  to 
indicate  that  he  took  it  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  up 
eomcthing  that  he  knew  to  be  frozen. 

Michel  left  them  early  next  day,  refusing  Dr.  Eich- 
ardson's  offer  to  accompany  him,  and  remained  out  all 
day.  He  would  not  sleep  in  the  tent  with  the  other 
two  at  night.  On  the  13th,  there  being  a  heavy  gale, 
they  passed  the  day  by  their  fire,  without  food. "  Next 
day,  at  noon,  Miiliel  set  out,  as  he  said,  to  hunt,  but 
returned  unexpectedly  in  a  short  time.  This  conduct 
surprised  his  companions,  and  his  contradictory  and 
evasive  answers  to  their  questions  excited  their  sus- 
picions still  further.  He  subsequently  refused  either 
to  hunt  or  cut  wood,  spoke  in  a  very  surly  manner, 
and  threatened  to  leave  them.  When  reasoned  with 
by  Mr.  Hood,  his  anger  was  excited,  and  he  replied  it 


i< ! 


80 


PKOOKKSS    OK   AKCTIO    DIlSt'(  VEKY. 


•     !' 


WHS  no  use  hnntinfr  —  there  were  no  animals,  and  tlicy 
had  hotter  kill  and  eat  him. 

*At  this  period,"  ohserves  Dr.  Kichardson,  "we 
avoided,  as  much  as  poasible,  convcrsinf»;  n[)on  the 
hopelesrness  of  our  sitiu^tion,  and  generally  endeav- 
ored to  lead  the  conversation  toward  our  future  ]u*()s- 
p'icts  in  life.  The  fact  is,  that  with  the  decay  of  our 
strength,  our  minds  decayed,  and  we  were  no  longer 
able  to  bear  the  contemplation  of  the  horrors  that  Bur- 
rounded  us.  Yet  we  were  calm  and  resigned  to  our 
late  ;  not  a  murmur  escaped  us,  and  we  were  ])unctual 
and  fervent  in  our  addree^ses  to  the  Su})reme  iVing." 

On  th»  moi-n'ng  of  the  20th,  they  aguin  urged  Michel 
to  go  a-iiuatr-;;',  tb  it  lie  inight,  if  possible,  leave  them 
soiiie  pr.i-,  i^i'^is,  as  he  intended  quitting  them  next 
day,  bu..  h,  -•;b>vv>r'  great  unwillingness  to  go  out,  and 
lingered  aboui:  thu  n'e  imder  the  pretense  of  cleaning 
his  gun.  After  the  morning  service  had  been  read, 
Dr.  Kichardson  went  out  to  gather  some  tn2>e  de  roclie^ 
leaving  Mr.  Hood  sitting  before  the  tent  at  the  fire- 
side, arguing  with  Michel ;  Hepburn  was  employed 
cutting  tire-wood.  While  they  were  thus  engaged, 
the  treacherous  Iroquois  took  the  opportunity  to  ]>lace 
his  gun  close  to  Mr.  Hood,  and  shoot  him  through  the 
head.  He  represented  to  his  companions  that  the  de- 
ceased had  killed  himself  On  examination  of  the 
body,  it  was  found  that  the  shot  had  entered  the  back 
part  of  the  head  and  passed  out  at  the  forehead,  and 
that  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  had  been  applied  so  close 
as  to  set  fire  to  the  nightcap  behind.  Michel  pi'o- 
tested  his  irmocence  of  the  crime,  and  Hepburn  and 
Dr.  Hichardson  dared  not  openly  evince  their  suspi- 
cion of  his  guilt. 

Next  day,  Dr.  Eichardson  determined  on  goinji 
straight  to  the  Fort.  They  singed  the  hair  otf  a  ])ar( 
of  the  buffalo  robe  that  belonged  to  their  ill-fated  coin 
panion,  and  boiled  and  ate  it.  In  the  course  of  theii 
march,  Michel  alarmed  them  much  by  his  gesture( 
cir.d  conduct,  was  constantly  muttering  to  hinii^olf,  ex- 
pressed an  unwillingness  to  go  to  the  Fort,  and  tried 


I ' 


ii 


HY. 

mals,  and  thoy 

liardsoTi,  "  we 
i"^'  ii[)on  the 
n-dUy  eudeav- 
Jr  future  jiros- 
s  decay  of  our 
ere  no  ]on<^er 
n-ors  til  at  sur. 
jsigned  to  our 
vere  pnnotual 
sine  iVj.rr," 

iii'^ed  Michel 
e,  leave  them 
?  them  next 

0  go  out,  and 
3  of  cleaning 
i^  been  read, 
"ipe  de  roc  he  ^ 
t  at  the  fire- 
is  eni])loyed 
ns  engaged, 
nity  to  place 

through  the 
that  tlie  de- 
ation  of  the 
ed  the  back 
rehead,  and 
lied  Fo  close 
Michel  pro- 
epbnrn  and 
their  snspi- 

1  on  goins 
■  off  a  jiari 
-fated  com 
I'fic  of  theii 
is  gesture! 
liniself,  ex- 
,  and  tried 


% 


FIJANKLIN's    KIKSI-    LANT)    KX1M;I)1TU)N.  81 

-'to  ]K'r>u!ule  tliem  to  go  snuthward  to  the  woods,  wIkm-o 
lie  siiid   iu'  could  niaintuin  himself  all  the  w'nter  by 
Ivilliug  deer.     ''  In  consecpicnce  of  this  behavior,  and 
Itln,'  expression  of  \\\i^  countenance,  I  recpiested  him 
(siivs   lvich:u(lson)  to  leave  ns,  and  to  go  to  the  south- 
V  iVd  by  hin.self     This  proposal  increased  his  ill-na- 
ture ;    he     hrew  uiit   sonio    obscure    hints  of  fi-eeing 
liiniself  froi  1  all  restraint  on  the  morrow  ;  and  I  over- 
heard I.ini  muttering  thro  as  against  ITepbnrn,  whom 
lie  ')i>enlv  accused  of  havimj  told  stories  acjainst  him. 
•  lie  also,  for  the  first  time,  assumed  ench  a  tone  of 
,  en;  erioiit}  in  addressing  me,  as  evinced  that  he  c<m- 
si(lere(l  us  to  be  completely  in  his  ])ower  ;  and  he  gave 
,;  vent  to  several  ex])ressions  of  hatred  toward  the  white 
I  i)LM)])1e,  some  of  whom,  ho  said,  had  killed  and  eaten 
.f|  his  uncle  and  two  of  his  relations.     In  shoi't,  taking 
'%  every  circumstance  of  his  conduct  into  consid     u'  ii., 
4  I   came   to  the  conclusion  that  he  would  at^Mnp    to 
destroy  us  on  the  first  opportunity  that  off^r«  ^,  and 
that  he  had  hitherto  abstained  from  doing  b.,  ."'Yhu  his 
iiinorance  of  his  way  to  the  Fort,  but  that  he  wuuld 
never  suffer  us  to  go  thither  in  company      ?<'.  him. 
Hepburn  and  I  were  not  in  a  condition  to  resist  even 
an  open  attack,  nor  could  we  by  any  device  escape 
fi'om  him  —  our  united  strencjth  was  far  inferior  to  his; 
and,  beside  his  gun,  he  was  armed  with  two  j^istols, 
an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a  knife. 

"In  the  afternoon,  coming  to  a  rock  on  which  there 
was  some  trip('  dc  rochc^  he  halted,  ,'ind  said  he  would 
gather  it  while  we  went  on,  and  that  he  would  soon 
overtake  us. 

"  Hepburn  and  I  were  now  loft  together  for  the  first 
time  since  Mr.  Hood's  death,  and  heac(juaii!ted  me  with 
several  material  circumstance's,  which  he  had  observed 
of  IMicheFs  bi-liavior,  and  wliic-h  coniirmed  me  in  the 
o]>inion  that  there  was  no  safety  for  us  exce]^t  in  his 
death,  and  he  offered  to  be  the  iiistrument  of  it.  I  de- 
termiiu^d,  however,  as  I  was  th' roughly  conviiu^ed  of 
the  necessity  of  such  a  dreadful  act,  to' take  the  whole 
rcs])onsibility  upon  myself;  and  immediately  upon  Mi- 


f\ 


n 


^■•A 


■i ' 
If 


^'i  m 


Sd 


PROGRESS    OF   AliCTIU   DISCOVERY. 


f   li':-   ^   1 


cliel's  coming  up,  I  put  an  end  to  his  life  by  sliooting 
him  through  the  Iieiul  with  ii  piatoh  Had  my  own  lite 
alo'io  been  tiu'oatened,"  observes  Kichardson,  in  conehi- 
Bion,  "  1  woukl  not  liave  jiurchased  it  by  such  a  measure, 
but  1  considered  myself  as  intrusted  also  with  tlie  pro- 
tection of  Hepburn's,  a  man  who,  by  his  humane  atten 
tions  and  devotedness,  had  so  endeared  himself  to  nu;, 
that  1  felt  more  anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  my  own. 

"  Michel  had  gathered  no  tripe  dc  rocJu^  and  it  was  evi- 
dent to  us  that  he  had  halted  for  the  purpose  of  puttint^' 
his  gun  in  order  with  the  intention  of  attacking  us  — 
perhaps  while  wo  were  in  the  act  of  encamping." 

Persevering  onward  in  tlicir  journey  as  well  as  the 
Bnow  storms  and  their  feeble  lindw  would  permit,  they 
saw  several  herds  of  deer ;  but  lle])burn,  who  used  to 
be  a  good  marksnum,  was  now  unal)le  to  hold  the  gun 
Btniiglit.  Following  the  track  of  a  wolverine  which  had 
be*!n  dragging  something,  he  however  found  the  spine 
of  a  deer  which  it  had  dropped.  It  was  clean  picWl, 
and  at  least  one  season  old,  but  they  extracted  the  spinal 
nuirrow  from  it. 

A  species  of  cornicularia^  a  kind  of  lichen,  was  also 
met  with,  that  was  found  good  to  eat  when  moistened 
and  toasted  over  the  lire.  They  had  still  some  pieces 
of  singed  buffalo  hide  remaining,  and  Hepburn,  on 
one  occasion,  killed  a  partridge,  after  firing  several 
times  at  a  flock.  About  dusk  of  the  29th  they  reached 
the  Fort. 

"  Upon  entering  the  desolate  dwelling,  we  had  the 
eatisfaction  of  embracinoj  Ca])t.  Franklin,  but  no  words 
can  convey  an  idea  of  the  filth  and  wretchedness  that 
met  our  eyc-3  on  looking  around.  Our  own  misery  had 
stolen  upon  us  by  degrees,  and  we  were  accustomed  to 
the  contemplation  of  each  other's  emaciated  figures; 
but  the  ghastly  countenances,  dilated  eye-balls,  and 
sepulchral  voices  of  Captain  Franklin  and  those  with 
Lim  were  more  than  we  could  at  first  bear." 

Thus  ends  the  narrative  of  Richardson's  journey. 

To  resume  the  detail  of  proceedings  at  the  Fort.  On 
the  1st  of  November  two  of  the  (Canadians,  Peltier  and 
Sanumdro,  died  from  sheer  exhaustion. 


tCY. 

fo  by  shooting 
1(1  my  own  \\i\i 
Iboii,  in  conclu- 
iich  II  ineuHuiv, 
)  with  the  pro- 
liumane  utten 
iimself  to  me, 
n  for  my  own. 
and  it  was  evi- 
L»KO  of  puttijic, 
ttackiiig  us  -^ 
mpiu^." 
ta  weJI  as  the 
permit,  they 
I  wJjo  used  to 
hold  the  gun 
lie  which  had 
nd  the  spine 
clean  picked, 
ted  the  spinal 

ben,  was  also 
n  moistened 
some  pieces 
[lepburn,  on 
ring  several 
they  reached 

we  had  the 
>ut  no  words 
ledness  that 
I  misery  had 
customed  to 
ted  figures; 
fi-balls,  and 
those  with 

journey. 
Fort.     On 
Peltier  and 


4 


FKANKLIN's    I'IKST    land   KXl'KDITION. 


§  On  tlio  7th  of  November  they  were  relieved  from 
itheir  i)rivations  and  sutferings  by  the  arrival  of  three 
#Lidians,  l)ringing  a  sunplv  of  dried  meat,  some  fat,  and 
?ia  few  tongues,  which  luul  been  sent  off  by  Back  with 
fall  haste  fi'om  Akaitcho's  encampment  on  the  oth. 
These  Indians  nursed  and  attended  them  with  the 
greatest  care,  cleansed  the  house,  collected  11  re- wood, 
and  studied  every  means  for  their  general  comfoi't.  Tlieir 
sulferings  were  now  at  an  end.  On  the  2()th  of  Novem- 
ber they  arrived  at  the  encampment  of  the  Indian  chief, 
Akaitcno.  On  the  0th  of  December  Belanger  and  an- 
other Canadian  arrived,  bringing  further  supplies,  and 
letters  from  luigland,  from  Mr.  liack,  and  their  former 
com])anion,  Mr.  NV^entzel. 

Tlie  dispatches  from  England  announced  the  success- 
ful  termination  of  Captain  Parry's  voyage,  and  the  pro- 
motion of  Captain  Franklin,  Mr.  Back,  and  of  poor  Mr. 
Hood. 

Op  the  18th  they  reached  the  Hudson's  Bay  Compa- 
ny's establishment  at  Moose  Deer  Island,  where  they 
joined  their  friend  Mr.  Back.  They  remained  at  Fort 
Chipewyan  until  June  of  the  following  year. 

It  is  now  necessary  to  relate  the  story  of  Mr.  Back's 
journey,  which,  like  the  rest,  is  a  sad  tale  of  suffering 
and  privation. 

Having  been  directed,  on  the  4:th  of  October,  1821, 
to  proceed  with  St.  Germain,  Belanger,  and  Beaupar- 
lant  to  Fort  Enterprise,  in  the  hopes  of  obtaining  relief 
for  the  party,  he  set  out.  Up  to  the  7th  they  met  with 
a  little  tripe  de  roche^  but  this  failing  them  they  were 
compelled  to  satisfy,  or  rather  allay,  the  cravings  of 
hunger,  by  eating  a  gun-cover  and  a  pair  of  old  shoes. 
The  grievous  disappointment  experienced  on  arriving 
at  the  house,  and  finding  it  a  deserted  ruin,  cannot  bo 
told. 

"AVithout  the  assistance  of  the  Indians,  bereft  of 
every  resource,  we  felt  ourselves,"  says  Mr.  Back,  "  re- 
duced to  the  most  miserable  state,  which  was  rendered 
still  worse  from  the  recollection  that  our  friends  in  the 
rear  were  as  miserable  as  ourselves.     For  the  moment, 

D 


I' 

I 


i 

I'lr 


*  i;  . 


m 


84 


ritOOKKSS  OF  AKC'IIC    D18(X)VI':KY. 


H  I 


:!'•:     i. 


liowcvcr,  Imnpjcr  prcvm'lcd,  niul  eaoli  licit^n  to  p^rlJ\^v 
tlic  KcriipH  of  ])utri(l  iiinl  tVo/cii  imsat  tiiul  suin  tlmt  wcrij 
lyint!:  ul)oiit,  without  wuitiii^^  to  i)ivi)iiro  theiii.'"  A  tiro 
Was,  iiowovi'i",  at'tiTward  made,  and  the  neck  and  hc>iu'.s 
of  a  deer  found  in  the  house  were  hoi  led  and  devouivd. 

After  restin/j^  a  day  at  the  ht>use,  Mr.  l>ack  ])ushed  dn 
with  his  companions  in  search  of  the  Indians,  leaviui,^  ;i 
note  for  Ca])tain  Fraid<lin,  informinjj^  him  if  he  failed  in 
meetiuf^  with  the  Indians,  ho  intended  to  push  on  tur 
the  Urst  trading  cstahlishment  —  distant  about  l;}(( 
miles  —  and  send  us  succor  from  thence.  On  the  llth 
he  set  out  on  the  journey,  a  few  old  skina  liaving  been 
first  collected  to  serve  as  food. 

On  tlie  13th  and  14th  of  October  they  liad  nothiiit; 
whatever  to  eat.  Belanger  was  sent  off  with  a  note  tu 
Franklin.  On  the  15th  they  were  fortunate  enough  to 
fall  in  with  a  partridge,  the  bones  of  which  were  eaten, 
and  tlie  renuiinder  reserved  for  bait  to  fish  with. 
Enough  tr/'pe  do  roche  was,  however,  gathered  to  make 
a  meal,  lleauparlant  now  lingered  behind,  worn  out 
by  extreme  weakness.  On  the  ITtli  a  number  of  crows, 
]>erched  on  some  high  pines,  led  them  to  believe  that 
some  carrion  was  near;  and  on  searching,  several  heads 
of  deer,  half  burled  in  the  snow  and  ice,  without  eyes 
or  tongues,  were  fouiul.  An  expression  of  "  Oh,  nu'rci- 
ful  God,  we  are  saved,"  broke  from  them  both  and  with 
feelings  more  easily  imagined  than  described,  thej 
shook  hands,  not  knowing  what  to  say  for  joy. 

St.  Germain  was  sent  back,  to  lu'ing  uj)  I'eauparlant, 
for  whose  safety  Back  became  very  anxious,  but  ho 
found  the  poor  fellow  frozen  to  death. 

The  night  of  the  17th  was  r;old  and  clear,  but  they 
could  get  no  sleep.  "From  the  j^ains  of  having  eaten, 
we  suffered  (observes  Back)  the  most  excruciating  tor- 
ments, though  I  in  particular  did  not  eat  a  ([uarter  of 
what  would  have  satisfied  me  ;  it  might  have  been  from 
having  eaten  a  quant itv  of  raw  or  fro;:en  sinews  of  tiie 
legs  of  deer,  which  neither  of  us  could  avoid  doing,  so 
great  was  our  hunger."" 

On  the  fulloM'ing  day  Belanger  returned  famishing 


liY. 

hvmn  to  ^nnw 
1  Mvin  that  wcr,, 
tliciu;'     A  i\n. 
leck  and  bom.;. 
and  dovouri.f] 
>ack  j)ii8h('d  (,ii 
lianR,  louviiiiTu 
I  it'  ho  failed'  in 
to  publi  on  fur 
iit  a])ont   l:\u 
On  tho  mil 
8  having  been 

Y  had  notliiiirr 
with  a  note  tu 
late  enough  to 
•h  were  eaten, 
to  fish  witli. 
lered  +o  muh 
ind,  worn  out 
liber  of  croM's, 

believe  tluit 
several  heads 
without  eves 

"  Oh,  nierei- 
)oth  and  with 
scribed,  thej 
joy. 

'k'auparlant, 
ious,  but  ho 


takuv'h  must  vovaok. 


85 


ar,  but  they 
aving  eateii, 
leiating  tor- 
!•  (piarter  of 
'e  been  from 
news  of  the 
id  doing,  so 

i  famishino: 


trith  linnirfr,  and  t<»ld  of  the  i)itiable  state  of  Franklin 
nd  hi>  j'vduced   [)artv.     Jiack,  both  this  day  and  the 
ext,  tried  to  ur^^e  on  l)is  coinpanions  toward  the  oltji'ct 
f  thiir  jouvJiey,  but  he  could   not  eoncjuer  their  stub- 
urn  (b'feruiiiuitions.     They  said  they  were  unable  to 
tneeed  fr.-ni  weakness  ;  kiiew  not  the  M'ay  ;  /hat  J>aek 
.Vanted  to  expose  theui  again  to  death,  and  in  fact  loi- 
"(MhmI  greedily  about  the  remnants  of  the  deer  till  tho 
ml  of  the  nionth.     "It  was  not  without  the  greatest 
itlieulty  that  I  could  restrain  the  men  from  eating  ev- 
ery scrap  they  found  ;  though  they  were  well  aware  of 
the  necessity  there  was  of  being  economical  in  our  pres- 
ent situation,  and  to  save  whatever  they  could  for  our 
journey,  yet  they  could  not  resist  the  temptation  ;  and 
whenever  my  back  was  turned  they  seldom  failed  to 
enatch  at  the*  nearest  piece  to  them,  whether  cooked  or 
raw.     Having  collected  with  great  care,  and  by  self- 
denial,  two  snudl  packets  of  dried  meat  or  sinews  sufti- 
*cient  (for  men  who  knew  what  it  was  to  fast)  to  last  for 
eiglit  days,  at  the  rate  of  one  indifferent  meal  per  day, 
they  set  out  on  the  30th.     On  the  3d  of  November  they 
came  on  the  track  of  Indians,  and  soon  reached  the 
tents  of  Akaitcho  and    his  followers,  when  food  was 
obtained, and  assistance  sent  off  to  Franklin. 

In  July  they  reached  York  Factory,  from  whence 
fthev  had  started  three  years  before,  and  thus  terminated 
la  journey  of  5550  miles,  during  which  human  courage 
iand  patience  were  exjx^sed  to  trials  such  as  few  can 
ibear  with  fortitude,  unless,  a^  is  seen  in  Franklin's  in- 
'^teresting  narrative,  arising  out  of  reliance  on  the  cver- 
Bustaining  care  of  an  Almighty  Providence. 

Parry's  First  Voyage,  1819-1820. 

The  Admiraltv  havinoj  determined  to  continue  tho 

?rogress  of  discovery  in  the  Arctic  seas,  Lieut.  AV.  E. 
'airy,  who    ad  been  second  in  command  under  Capt. 
^Koss,  in  the  \'oyage  of  the  previous  year,  was  selected 
i  to  take  chaige  of  a  new  expedition,  consisting  of  the 
lllec^a  p.nd  Griper.     The  cliief  object  of  this  voyage  w;ie 
l>ursue  the  survey  of  Lancaster  Sound,  and  declda 


'.in 


\}4 


f 

! 
i  r. 


86 


rROGRl«:68    OF    AKCrnC    DI8C0VKRY. 


<ii  ^1 


on  the  ])robability  of  a  northwest  passage  in  that  diroc. 
tion ;   failing   in  which,  Smith's    and   Jones'  Soiini 
were  to  be  explored,  with  the  same  purpose  in  V'cw, 
The   respective    oflScers   appointed    to  the    bhibs, 
were  — 

Hecla^  375  tons : 

Lieut,  and  Commander  —  "VV.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenant  —  Fred.  W.  Beechey. 

Captain  —  E.  Sabine,  R.  A.,  Astronomer. 

Purser — AY.  H.  Hooper. 

Surgeon  —  John  Edwards. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  Alexander  Fisher. 

Midshipmen  —  James  Clarke  Ross,  J.  Nias,  "W.  J 

Dealy,  Charles  Palmer,  John  Bushnan. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  J.  Allison,  master;   G.  Craw 

furd,  mate. 
44  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  ttc. 

Total  com[)lement,  58. 

Grvpei\  180  tons: 

Lieutenant  and  Commander — Matthew  Liddon. 
Lieutenant  —  II.  P.  Hoppner. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 
Midshi])men  —  A.   Reid,   A.    M.    Skene,  W.    N 

Griffiths. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  George  Fyfe,  master ;  A.  Eld 

mate. 
28  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  36. 

The  ships  were  raised  upon,  strengthened,  and  woll 
found  in  stores  and  provisions  for  two  yenrs.  On  the 
11  til  of  May,  1819,  they  got  away  from  the  Tiiamcs, 
and  after  a  fair  passage  fell  in  with  a  ccmsiderabltMpiaii- 
tity  of  ice  in  tlie  middle  of  Davis'  Straits  about  the 
2()th  of  June  ;  it  consisted  chieily  of  fragments  of  ice- 
bergs, on  the  outskirts  of  the  ghiciers  that  form  alon<,' 
the  shore.  After  a  tcMJious  jmssage  through  the  tloes 
of  ice,  eft'ected  chieiiy  by  heaving  and  war])iiig,  they 
arrived  ac  Possession  Bav  on  the  m  ,'.'ninnr  of  the  iilst 


M 

l| 

•J 

*   ij 


>VKiir. 

ge  in  that  diroc 
Jones'  Soiin, 

irpose  in  V'ew 
to  the    ^hii,", 


)mer. 


er 

J.Nias,  W.J 
man. 

er;   G.  Craw 


Bw  Liddon. 

ene,  W.    K 
er ;  A.  Eld 


ed,  and  woll 
ars.  On  the 
the  Thaiiios, 
UTal)ltM|ujni- 
ts  about  the 
nonts  of*  Icc- 
t  t'onn  aloiii^^ 
}i;h  tho  tlocs 

V])il]«>^,  tlu^y 

of  the  3ik 


PAKUYS    FIKST    VOYAGE. 


87 


July,  being  just  a  month  earlier  than  they   were 
^ero  on  the  previous  year.     As  many  as  Hfty  whales 
rere  seen  here  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours.     On  land- 
er, they  were  not  a  little  astonished  to  find  their  ov/n 
footprints  of  the  previous  year,  still  distinctly  visible  in 
jhe  snow.     During  an  excursion  of  three  or  four  miles 
Into  the  interior,  a  fox,  a  raven,  several  ring-plovers 
and  snow-buntings,  were  seen,  as  also  a  bee,  from  which 
it  nuiy  be  inferred  that  honey  can  be  procured  even  in 
these  wild  regions.     Vegetation  flourishes  remarkably 
(Well  here,  considering  the  hi^h  latitude,  for  wherever 
ithore  was  moisture,  tufts  and  various  ground  plants 
Igrew  in  considerable  abundance. 

Proceeding  on  from  hence  into  the  Sound,  they  veri- 
jfied  the  opinion  which  had  previously  been  entertained 
^by  many  of  the  otiicers,  that  the  Croker  Mountains 
{liad  no  existence,  for  on  the  4th  of  August,  the  ships 
IyWctc  in  long.  86°  56'  "VV".,  three  degrees  to  the  westward 
|of  where  land  had  been  laid  down  by  JRoss  in  the  pre- 
'  vious  vear.    The  strait  was  named  after  Sir  John  Bar- 
row,  and  was  found  to  be  pretty  clear ;  but  on  reach- 
ing Leopold  Island,  the  ice  extended  in  a  compact  body 
to  the  north,  through  which  it  was  impossible  to  pene- 
trate.    Kather  than  remain  inactive^,  waiting  for  the 
.dis>;olutioii  of  the  ice,  Parry  determined  to  try  w^hat 
I  could  be  done  by  shaping  his  course  to  the  southward, 
ithrough  the  magnificent  inlet  now  named  Regent  In- 
|let.    About  the  6th  of  August,  in  consequence  of  the 
|lo(tal  attraction,  the  ordinary  compasses  became  use- 
lless  from  their  great  variation,  and  the  binnacles  were 
'* removed  from  the  deck  to  the  carpenter's  store-room  as 
.^P  us*  less  lumber,  the  azimuth  compasses  alone  remain- 
ling  ;  and  these  became  so  sluggish  in  their  motions, 
Ithiit  they  required  to  be  very  nicely  leveled,  and  fre- 
Squi'iitly  tapped  before  the  card  traversed.     The  local  at- 
^.  traction  was  very  great,  and  a  mass  of  iron-stone  found 

ton  sliore  attracted  the  mngnet  powerfully.     The  ships 
proceeded  VIO  mile-  from  the  entrance. 
I     On  the  8lh  of  August,  in  hit.  72°  13'  K,  and  hmg. 
J  90'  2i)'  W.,  (his  extreme  point  of  view  Parry  named 


I'll 

f  i' 

f"; 


'      .!i 


!^^ 


{ 


i  f' 


i 
t 


m 


88 


PKOGRESS    OF   AKCl'IC    DISCOVERY. 


i!    ■  1 


ill   •■■ 


gi  a 


'it 


■  i 


Cape  Kater,)  the  Ilecla  came  to  a  compact  barrier  of 
ice  extend in«^  across  the  inlet,  wliicli  rendered  one  of 
two  alternatives  necessary,  eitlier  to  remain  here  until 
an  opening  took  place,  or  to  return  again  to  the  noith- 
ward.  The  latter  course  was  determined  on.  Making, 
therefore,  for  the  nortliern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  on 
the  20th  a  narrow  channel  was  discovered  between  the 
ice  and  the  land.  On  the  22d,  proceeding  due  west, 
after  passing  several  bays  and  headlands,  they  noticed 
two  large  openings  or  passages,  the  first  of  which,  more 
than  eif^ht  leagues  in  width,  he  named  Wellington 
Channel.  To  various  capes,  inlets,  and  groups  of  isl- 
ands  passed.  Parry  assigned  the  names  of  Jiotham, 
Barlow,  Cornwallis,  Bowen,  Byam  Martin,  Griflitli, 
Lowther,  Bathurst,  &c.  On  the  28th  a  boat  was  sent 
on  shore  at  Byam  Martin  Island  with  Capt.  Sabine, 
Mr.  J.  C.  Koss,  and  the  surgeons,  to  make  observations, 
and  collect  specimens  of  natural  history.  The  vegeta- 
tion Avas  ratlier  luxuriant  for  these  regions;  moss  in 
particular  grew  in  abundance  in  the  moist  valleys  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  streams  that  flowed  from  tho 
hills.  The  ruins  of  six  Esquimaux  huts  were  observed. 
Tracks  of  reindeer,  bears,  and  musk  oxen  were  noticed, 
and  the  skeletons,  skiUls,  and  horns  of  some  of  these 
animals  were  found. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  they  discovered  the  large 
and  line  island,  to  which  Parry  has  given  the  name  of 
Melville  Island  after  the  First  l^ord  of  the  Admiralty 
of  that  day.  On  the  following  day,  two  boats  with  a 
party  of  otncers  were  dispatched  to  examine  its  shores. 
Some  reindeer  and  musk  oxen  were  seen  on  landinpf, 
but  being  startled  by  the  sight  of  a  dog,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  get  near  them.  There  seemed  here  to  bo 
a  great  quantity  of  the  animal  tribe,  for  the  tracks  of 
bears,  oxen,  and  deer  were  numerous,  and  the  horns, 
skin,  and  skulls  were  also  found.  The  burrows  of  foxea 
and  ticld-mice  were  observed;  several  ptarmigan  were 
shot,  and  flocks  of  snow-bunting,  geese,  and  ducks,  were 
noticed,  ])robably  commencing  their  migration  to  a 
mihler  climate.     Along  the  beach  tliere  was  an  iin- 


RY. 

►act  barrier  of 
ndered  ono  of 
tain  here  until 
11  to  the  iioith- 
on.     Making^ 
uw's  Strait,  on 
d  between  the 
inff  due  west, 
1,  they  noticed 
)f  wliich,  more 
d  "Wellington 
groups  of  isl- 
I  of  Jiotharn, 
rtin,  Griffith, 
boat  was  sent 
Capt.  Sabine, 
observations, 
The  vegeta- 
ons;  moss  in 
it  valleys  and 
ycd  from  the 
ere  observed, 
were  noticed, 
^me  of  these 

ed  the  large 
the  name  of 
e  Admiralty 
boats  with  a 
le  its  shores, 
on  landing, 
t  was  found 
d  here  to  be 
le  tracks  of 
the  horns, 
>W8  of  foxes  . 
iiigan  were 
clucks,  were 
ration  to  a 
vas  an  iin- 


rARKY'S   FIRST   VOYAGE. 


89 


lense  number  of  small  shrimps,  and  vario  .s  kinds  of 

On  the  4th  of  September,  Parry  had  \hi  satisttiction 
f  crossing  the  meridian  of  110°  W.,  in  the  latitude  of 
4°  44'  20",  by  which  the  expedition  became  entitled 
«o  the  reward  of  £5000,  granted  by  an  order  in  Coun- 
cil upon  the  Act  58  Geo.  lU.,  cap.  20,  entitled,  "An 
^ct  for  more  effectually  discovering  the  longitude  at 
lea,  and  encouraging  attempts  to  find  a  northern  pas- 
gage  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  and  to 
Apjjroach  the  North  Pole."  This  fact  was  not  announced 
0  the  crews  until  the  following  day ;  to  celebrate  the 
vent  they  gave  to  a  bold  cape  of  the  island  then  lying 
i  sight  the  name  of  Bounty  Cape ;  and  so  anxit)U8 
ere  they  now  to  press  forward,  that  they  began  to 
.alculate  the  time  when  they  should  reacb  the  longi- 
tude of  130°  W.,  the  second  place  specified  by  the  order 
in  Council  for  reward.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  5th, 
the  compactness  of  the  ice  stopped  them,  and  therefore, 
for  the  first  time  since  leaving  England,  the  anchor  was 
let  go,  and  that  in  110^  "W.  longitude. 
I  A  boat  was  sent  on  shore  on  the  6th  to  procure  turf 
or  peat  for  fuel,  iind,  strangely  en^/Ugh,  some  small 
pieces  of  tolerably  good  coal  were  found  in  varit)us 
places  scattered  over  the  surface.  A  party  of  officers 
that  went  on  shore  on  the  8th  killed  several  grouse  on 
..the  island,  and  a  white  hare;  a  fox,  some  field-mice, 
i^everal  snow-bunting,  a  snowy  owl,  and  four  musk  <»xen 
•^'ere  seen.  Ducks,  in  small  nocks,  were  seen  along  the 
f  shore,  as  well  as  several  glaucous  gulls  and  tern,  and  a 
Bolitary  seal  was  observed. 

As  the  ships  were  coasting  along  on  the  7th,  two 

erds  of  musk  oxen  were  seen  grazing,  at  the  distance 

of  ;ii)out  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  beach  :  one 

nenl  consisted  of  nine,  and  the  other  of  five  of  these 

■cattle.     They  had  also  a  distant  view  of  two  reindeer. 

Tlie  average  weight  of  the  hares  here  is  about  eiglit 

^pounds.     Mr.  Fisher,  the  surgeon,  from  whose  intercst- 

Jing  journal  I  quote,  states  that  it  is  very  evident  that 

this  isla.nd  must  be  frequented,  if  not  constantly  iidiab- 


90 


PKUCJllKSS    OF    AUCTIC    DISCOVKKY. 


islWl 


'I'''  ■  m 

lip.  I;;i!il 

it] 


ited,  by  musk  oxen  in  great  numbers,  for  their  bones  and 
horns  are  found  scattered  about  in  all  directions,  and 
the  greatest  part  of  the  carcass  of  one  was  discovered 
on  one  occasion.  The  skulls  of  two  carnivorous  ani- 
mals, a  wolf  and  a  lynx,  were  also  picked  up  here.  A 
party  sent  to  gather  coals  brought  on  board  about  halt 
a  Jbushel — all  they  could  obtain. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  Mr.  George  Fyfo,  the 
master  pilot,  with  a  party  of  six  men  belonging  to  tlie 
(i riper,  landed  with  a  view  of  making  an  exploring  trip 
of  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  into  the  interior,  riioj 
only  took  provisions  for  a  day  with  them.  Grea^  na. 
easiness  was  felt  that  they  did  not  return  ;  and  wlujii 
two  days  elapsed,  fears  began  to  be  entertained  fur 
their  safety,  and  it  was  thought  they  must  have  lost 
their  way. 

Messrs.  Reid,  (midshipman)  Beverly,  (assistant  sur- 
geon) and  Wakeman  (clerk)  volunteered  to  go  in  seiiicli 
of  their  missing  messmates,  but  themselves  lost  their 
way  ;  guided  by  the  rockets,  tires,  and  lights  exhibited, 
they  returned  by  ten  at  night,  almost  exhausted  with 
cold  and  fatigue,  but  without  intelligence  of  their  friends. 
Four  relief  parties  were  therefore  organized,  and  sent 
out  on  the  morning  of  the  13th  to  prosecute  the  search, 
and  one  of  them  fell  in  with  and  brought  back  four  of 
the  wanderers,  and  another  the  remaining  three  before 
nightfall. 

The  feet  of  most  of  them  were  much  frost-bitten,  and 
they  were  all  wearied  and  worn  out  with  their  wander- 
ings. It  appeal's  they  had  all  lost  their  way  the  eve- 
ning of  the  day  they  went  out.  With  regard  to  food, 
tliey  were  by  no  means  badly  off,  tor  they  managed  (o 
kill  as  many  grouse  as  they  could  eat. 

They  found  fertile  valleys  and  level  plains  in  tlie  in- 
terior, abounding  with  grass  and  moss  ;  also  a  hike  of 
fresh  water,  aV)out  two  miles  long  by  one  broad,  in  which 
were  several  species  of  trout.  They  saw  several  herds 
of  reindeer  on  the  plains,  and  two  elk  ;  also  nuiny 
hares,  but  no  musk  oxen.  Some  of  those,  however,  wlin 
had  b(M^n  in  search  of  the  stray  party,  noticed  herds  of 
these  cattle. 


M< 


iliY. 

heir  bones  and 
lirections,  und 
^'as  discovered 
rnivuroiia  aui. 
J  up  Iiere.  A 
ird  about  halt 


PAltRYS   FIKST   VOYAUE. 


91 


>rge  Fyfo,  the 
longing  to  the 
exploring  trip 
iterior.  fliej' 
n.  Grea);  un. 
•n  j  and  when 
iitertained  fur 
:uet  have  lost 

(assistant  sur- 
J  go  in  search 
ves  lost  their 
hts  exhibited, 
diausted  with 
:'  their  friends, 
zed,  and  sent 
ite  the  search, 
ba(;k  four  of 
;  three  before 

st-bitten,  and 
;heir  waiidor- 
way  the  eve- 
jard  to  fodd, 
managed  to 

ins  in  tlie  in- 
Iso  a  lake  of 
3ad,in  which 
everal  herds 
also  many 
owevur,  who 
ced  herds  of 


»;  Tlie  ^vinter  now  began  to  set  in,  and  the  packed  ice 
tas  80  thick,  that  fears  were  entertained  of  being  locked 
«p  ia  an  exposed  position  on  the  coast ;  it  was,  there- 

'%>re,  thought  most  prudent  to  put  back,  and  endeavor 
^  reach  the  harbor  which  had  been  passed  some  days 
|»efore.  The  vessels  now  got  seriously  buffeted  among 
j^ie  tloes  and  hummocks  ot  ice.  The  Griper  was  forc(;d 
ftgrou  ul  on  the  beach,  and  for  some  time  was  in  a  \(}vy 
critical  position.  Lieutenant  Liddou  having  been  coa- 
^ned  to  his  cabin  by  a  rheumatic  complaiiit,  was  pressed 
ft  this  juncture  by  Commander  Parry  to  allow  himself 
|o  be  removed  to  the  Ilecla,  but  he  nobly  refused,  stating 
j^at  he  should  be  the  last  to  leave  the  ship,  and  contin- 
ued giving  orders.  The  beach  being  sand,  the  Griper 
^as  got  on  without  injury. 

On  the  23d  of  September  they  anchored  off  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  the  thermometer  now  fell  to 
1°.  The  crew  were  set  to  work  to  cut  a  channel  through 
the  ice  to  the  shore,  and  in  the  course  of  three  days,  a 
canal,  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  was  completed, 
through  which  the  vessel  was  tracked.  The  ice  was 
eight  or  nine  inches  thick.  An  extra  allowance  of  pre- 
served meat  was  served  out  to  the  men,  in  considera- 
tion of  their  hard  labor.  The  vessels  were  unrigged, 
and  every  thin^  made  snug  and  secure  for  passing  the 

^winter.  Captam  Parry  gave  the  name  of  the  North 
Georgian  Islands  to  this  group,  after  his  Majesty,  King 
beorge  III.,  but  this  has  since  been  changed  to  the 
^arry  Islands. 

Two  reindeer  were  killed  on  the  1st  of  Octooor,  and 
leveral  white  bears  were  seen.  On  the  6th  adc  •  was 
ulk'd,  which  weighed  170  pounds.  Seven  we  seen 
m  tlie  10th,  one  of  which  was  killed,  and  ano  er  se- 
rerely  wounded.  Following  after  this  animul,  night 
)vertook  several  of  the  sportsmen,  and  the  i:  al  sig- 
lals  of  rockets,  lights,  &c.  were  exhibited,  •  guide 
horn  back.  One,  John  Pearson,  a  marii:  .jad  his 
lands  so  frost-bitten  that  he  was  obliged,  on  the  2d  of 
S"ovember,  t  -  liavethe  four  fmgers  of  his  left  h;md  am- 
mtated.  A  wolf  and  four  reindeer  were  seei  on  the 
6  D* 


» 


I 


k\ 


}  ,- 


92 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVKKT. 


% 


hi'r. 


li 


liiii  '. 


r  '        ,!i 


14th.  A  herd  of  fifteen  deer  were  seen  on  the  15th; 
but  those  who  saw  them  could  not  bring  down  any,  as 
their  fowling-pieces  missed  fire,  from  the  moisture 
freezing  on  the  locks.  On  the  17th  and  18th  herds  of 
eleven  and  twenty  respectively,  were  seen,  and  a  small 
one  w^s  shot.  A  fox  was  caught  on  the  29th,  which  is 
described  as  equally  cunning  with  his  brethren  of  the 
temperate  regions. 

To  make  the  long  winter  pass  as  cheerfully  as  possi- 
ble,  plays  were  acted,  a  school  established,  and  a  news- 
paper set  on  foot,  certainly  the  first  periodical  publica- 
tion that  had  ever  issued  h'om  the  Arctic  regions.  The 
title  of  this  journal,  the  editorial  duties  of  which  were 
undertaken  by  Captain  Sabine,  was  "The  Winter 
Chronicle,  or  New  Georgia  Gazette."  The  first  num- 
ber appeared  on  the  1st  of  November. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  November  the  farce  of 
"  Miss  in  her  Teens "  was  brought  out,  to  the  groat 
amusement  of  the  ships'  companies,  and,  considering 
the  local  difliculties  ana  disadvantages  under  which  the 
performers  labored,  their  first  essay,  according  to  the 
officers'  report,  did  them  infinite  credit.  Two  hours 
were  spent  very  happily  in  their  theater  on  the  quarter- 
deck, notwithstanding  the  thermometer  outside  tlie  ship 
stood  at  zero,  and  within  as  low  as  the  freezing  point, 
except  close  to  the  stoves,  where  it  was  a  little  higher. 
Another  play  was  performed  on  the  24th,  and  so  on 
every  fortnight.  The  men  were  employed  during  the 
day  in  banking  up  the  ships  with  snow. 

On  the  23d  of  December,  the  officers  performed  "  The 
Mayor  of  Garrett,"  which  was  followed  by  an  after- 
piece, written  by  Captain  Parry,  entitled  the  "  North- 
West  Passage,  or  the  Voyage  Finished."  The  sun  hav- 
ing long  since  departed,  the  twilight  at  noon  was  eo 
clear  that  books  in  the  smallest  print  could  be  distinctly 
read. 

On  the  6th  of  Januarv,  the  farce  of  "  Bon  Ton  "  was 
performed,  with  the  theiniometer  at  27°  below  zero,— 
The  cold  became  n'ore  and  more  intense.  On  the  12th 
it  was  T)!'  bfjow  zero,  in  tlie  open  air  ;  brandy  froze  to 


r. 

on  the  15th; 
down  any,  as 
the  moisture 
1 8th  herds  of 
1,  and  a  small 
29th,  which  is 
•ethren  of  the 

fully  as  possi- 
1,  and  a  news- 
dical  publica- 
regions.  The 
*f  which  were 
■The  Winter 
he  first  num- 

r  the  farce  of 
to  the  groat 
I,  considering 
(ler  which  the 
irding  to  the 

Two  hours 
1  the  quarter- 
tside  the  ship 
pezing  point, 
little  higher. 
I,  and  so  on 

during  the 

brmed"The 
)y  an  after- 
he  "North- 
riie  sun  hav- 
noon  was  80 
je  distinctly 

n  Ton  "  was 
?low  zero.~ 
On  the  12th 
ndy  froze  to 


PARKY  S    FIRST    VOYAGE. 


93 


^he  consistency  of  honey;  when  tasted  iu  this  state  it 
4eft  a  smarting  on  the  tongue.  The  greatest  cold  expe- 
'riencod  was  ton  the  14th  of  January,  when  the  ther- 
mometer fell  to  52°  below  zero.  On  the  3d  of  Febru- 
jary,  tlie  sun  was  first  visible  above  the  horizon,  after 
jEiglity-four  days'  absence.  It  was  seen  from  tlie  nuiin- 
(top  of  the  ships,  a  height  of  about  fitty-one  feet  above 

the  sea. 

K  On  the  forenoon  of  the  24th  a  fire  broke  out  at  the 
storehouse,  which  was  used  as  an  observatory.  All 
^ands  proceeded  to  the  spot  to  endeavor  to  subdue  the 
•flames,  but  having  only  snow  to  throw  on  it,  and  the 
(mats  with  which  Uie  interior  was  lined  bein^very  dry, 
'it  was  found  impossible  to  extinguish  it.  The  snow, 
Jiowever,  covered  the  astronomical  instruments  and  se- 
cured them  from  the  fire,  and  when  the  roof  had  been 
pulled  down  the  fire  had  burned  itself  out.  Consider- 
al)le  as  tlie  fire  was,  its  influence  or  heat  extended  but 
a  very  short  distance,  for  several  of  the  officers  and 
men  were  frost-bitten,  and  confined  from  their  efforts 
for  several  weeks.  John  Smith,  of  the  Artillery,  who 
was  Captain  Sabine's  servant,  and  who,  together  with 
Sergeant  Martin,  happened  to  he  in  the  '  >use  at  the 
time  the  fire  broke  out,  suffered  much  i.h  •  severely. 
In  their  anxiety  to  save  the  dipping  needle,  which  was 
standing  close  to  the  ptove,  and  of  which  they  knew 
the  value,  they  immediatelv  ran  out  with  it;  and  Smith 
not  having  time  to  put  on  his  gloves,  had  his  fingers  in 
half  an  hour  so  benumbed,  and  the  animation  so  com- 
pletely suspended,  that  on  his  being  taken  on  board 
by  Mr.  Edwards,  and  having  his  hands  plunged  into 
a  basin  of  cold  water,  the  surface  of  the  water  was  im- 
mediately frozen  by  the  intense  cold  thus  suddenly 
communicated  to  it;  and  notwithstanding  the  most  hu- 
mane and  unremitting  attention  paid  him  by  the  med- 
ical gentlemen,  it  was  found  necessary,  some  time  after, 
to  rt'surt  to  the  amputation  of  a  part  of  four  fingers 
on  one  hand,  and  three  on  the  other. 

Parry  adds,  *»  the  appearance  which  our  faces  pre- 
itrd  at  the  fire  was  a  curious  one;  almost  every  noae 


'-'U 


i 


i 


■    i'i 


ill 


94 


PROOKESS   OF    AUCTIO   DiecOVEliY. 


wif 


•'•I  ', 


and  eheok  hiiving  become  qnife  whit^e  with  frost  bites, 
in  live  niinutts  after  being  exposed  to  tiio  weiitlier,  so 
that  it  was  deemed  necessary  for  the  mi^lical  gentle- 
men, together  with  some  others  appointed  to  assist 
them,  to  go  constantly  round  while  the  men  were  work 
ing  at  the  iire,  and  to  rub  with  snow  the  parts  alleeted, 
in  order  to  restore  animation." 

The  weather  got  considerably  milder  in  March;  on 
the  0th  the  thermometer  got  up  to  zero  for  the  fir^^t 
time  since  the  17th  of  December.  The  observatory 
house  on  shore  was  now  rebuilt. 

The  vapor,  which  had  been  in  a  solid  state  on  the 
ship's  sides,  now  thawed  below,  and  the  crew,  scraping 
off  the  coating  of  ice,  removed  on  the  8th  of  March, 
above  a  hundred  l)ucketsfull  each,  containing  from  live 
to  six  gallons,  which  had  accumulated  in  less  than  a 
month,  occasioned  principally  from  the  men's  breath, 
and  the  steam  of  victuals  at  meals. 

The  scurvy  now  broke  out  among  the  crew,  and 
prompt  measures  were  taken  to  remedy  it.  Captain 
Pari'y  took  greiit  pains  to  raise  mustard  and  cress  in 
his  cabin  for  the  men's  use. 

On  the  3(>th  of  April,  the  thermometer  stood  at  the 
freezing  point,  which  it  had  not  done  since  the  12th  of 
Septemi>er  last.  On  tlu^  1st  of  May,  the  sun  was  seen 
at  midnight  for  the  first  time  that  season. 

A  survey  was  now  taken  of  the  provisions,  fuel,  and 
stores;  much  of  the  lemon  juice  was  found  destroyed 
frou'  rJie  bursting  in  the  bottles  by  the  frost.  Having 
been  only  victialed  for  two  years,  and  half  that  period 
having  expired,  Captain  Parry,  as  a  matter  of  prudence 
reduced  all  hands  to  two-tliirds  allowance  of  all  sorts  of 
provisions,  except  meat  and  sugar. 

The  crew  were  now  set  to  work  in  cutting  away  the 
ice  round  the  ships :  the  average  thickness  was  found 
to  be  seven  feet.  Many  of  the  men  who  had  been  out 
on  excursions  began  to  suffer  much  from  snow  blind- 
ness. Tlie  sensation  when  first  experienced,  ic  de- 
scribed as  like  that  felt  when  dust  or  sand  gets  into 
the  eyes.    They  were,  however,  cured  in  the  course  of 


i» 


i'Akby's  fikb'I'  voyage. 


95 


h  frost  bites, 

3  WCllthoi',  80 

rtical  goiitli^. 
tl    to  assint 
1  vvoro  woi'k 
irts  ailbeti'd, 

March;  on 
for  tho  fir.«,t 
observatory 

tato  on  tlio 
3\v,  scrap! ji a 
1  of  Marcl?, 
i.i^  from  live 
less  than  a 
en's  breath, 

crew,  and 
t.  Captain 
lud  cress  in 

tood  at  the 
the  12th  of 
n  was  seen 

s,  fuel,  and 
I  destroyed 
t.  Ilavinof 
that  period 
f  prudence 
nil  sorts  of 

:  away  the 
was  found 
i  been  out 
low  blind- 
ed, ic  de- 
gets  into 
coui'se  of 


'm 


two  or  three  days  by  keeping  the  eyes  covered,  and 
hatliinir  them  occas'onally  witli  sugar  of  lead,  or  some 
otlier  cooling  lotion. 

To  j)revent  the  recurrence  of  the  complaint,  tho  men 
wor<'  ordered  to  wear  a  piece  of  crape  or  some  substi- 
tute for  it  over  the  eyes. 

Tile  channel  round  the  ships  was  completed  by  the 
ITtli  of  May,  and  they  rose  nearly  two  feet,  having 
been  ke})t  <h>wn  by  the  pressure  of  the  ice  round  them, 
altlidugh  lightened  during  the  winter  by  the  consump- 
tion of  food  and  fuel.     On  the  24:th,  they  were  aston- 
ished by  two  sho\^•er8  of  rain,  a  most  extraordinary 
plienomenon  in  these  remons.      Symptoms  of  scurvy 
again  aj>peared  among  tlie  crew  ;  one  of  the  seamen 
wlio  ha(l  l)een  recently  cured,  having  inqjrudently- been 
in  the  habit  of  eating  the  fat  skimmings,  or  "slush,"  in 
which  s!.lt  !:ieat  had  been  boiled,  and  which  was  served 
out  for  :  loi]'  lamps.    As  the  hills  in  many  places  now  be- 
en me  caoos^mI  and  vegetation  commenced,  two  or  three 
]>ieces  ol  ground  were  dug  up  and  sown  with  seeds  of 
radishes,  onions,  and  other  vegetables.     Captain  Parry 
determined  before  leaving  to  make  an  excursion  across 
the  island  for  the  ])urpose  of  examining  its  size,  bound- 
aries, ])roductions,  Are.    Accordingly  on  the  Ist  of  Juno, 
an  expedition  was  organized,  consisting  of  the  com- 
mandei'.  Captain  Sabine,  Mr.  Fisher,  the  assistant-sur- 
geon, ^Fr.  John  Nias,  midshipman  of  tho  Ilecla,  and 
!N[r.  Reid,  midshipman  of  the  Griper,  with  two  ser 
geants,  and  five  seamen  and  marines.     Three  weeks 
provisions  were  t:iken,  which,  together  with  two  tents, 
wood  fur  fuel,  and  other  articles,  weighing  in  all  about 
800  lbs.,  was  drawn  on  a  cart  prepared  for  the  purpose 
by  the  men. 

Each  of  the  oiHcers  carried  a  knapsack  with  his  own 
private  baggage,  weighing  from  18  to  24-  lbs.,  also  hia 
gun  and  ammunition.  The  partv  started  in  high  glee, 
under  three  hearty  cheers  from  tlieir  comrades,  sixteen 
of  whom  accompanied  them  for  five  miles,  carrying 
tlieir  knapsacks  and  drawing  the  cart  for  them. 

They  travtded  by  night,  taking-  le^t  by  day,  as  it  WM 


i' 


.i 


:■'' 


i 


96 


PK0(aiKS8    OF    ARCriC    DISCOVKKV. 


*  :; 


'II' I  ■ 


found  to  he  warmer  for  sleep,  and  they  had  only  a  cov 
criiig  of  a  single  blanket  each,  beside  the  clothes  tijoy 
had  on. 

On  the  2d,  tliey  came  to  a  small  lake,  about  half  a 
mile  h)ng,  and  met  with  eider-ducks  and  ptarmigan  ; 
seven  of  the  hitter  were  shot.  From  the  top  of  a  range 
of  hills  at  which  they  now  arrived,  they  could  see  the 
masts  of  the  ships  in  AVinter  Harbor  with  the  naked 
eye,  at  about  ten  or  eleven  miles  distant.  A  vast  plain 
was  also  seen  extending  to  the  northward  and  west- 
ward. 

The  party  breakfasted  on  biscuit  and  a  pint  of  gruel 
each,  made  of  sulep  powder,  which  was  found  to  be  a 
very  palatable  diet.  Reindeer  with  their  lawns  were 
met  with. 

They  derived  great  assistance  in  drai?ging  their  cart 
by  rigging  upon  it  one  of  the  tent-bhmketa  as  a  sail,  a 
truly  nautical  contrivance,  and  the  wind  favoring  tliem, 
they  made  great  ])rogress  in  this  way.  Captain  Sabine 
being  taken  ill  with  a  bowel  complaint,  had  to  be  con- 
veyed on  this  novel  sail  carriage.  Tliey,  however,  had 
some  ugly  ravines  to  pass,  the  crossings  of  which  were 
very  tedious  and  troublesome.  On  trie  7th  the  party 
came  to  a  large  bay,  which  was  named  after  their  ships, 
Hecla  and  Griper  13ay.  The  blue  ice  was  cut  through 
by  hard  work  with  boarding  pikes,  the  only  instruments 
they  had,  and  after  digging  fourteen  and  a  half  feet, 
the  water  rushed  up ;  it  was  not  very  salt,  but  sutticiait 
to  satisfy  them  that  it  was  the  ocean.  An  island  seen 
in  the  distance  was  named  after  Captain  Sabine  ;  some 
of  the  various  points  and  capes  were  also  named  after 
others  of  the  ;>art3\  Although  this  «hore  was  found 
blocked  up  with  sucli  heavy  ice,  there  appear  to  be  times 
when  there  is  open  water  here,  for  a  piece  of  iir  wood 
seven  and  a  half  feet  long,  and  about  the  thickness  of 
a  man's  arm,  was  found  about  eighty  yards  inland  from 
the  hummocks  of  the  beach,  and  about  thirty  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Before  leaving  the  sliore,  a  monu- 
ment of  stones,  twelve  feet  high,  was  erected,  in  which 
were  deposited,  in  a  tin  cylinder,  an  account  of  their 


ily  a  cov 

tlies  tijoy 

"t  linlf  a 
iimigan  ; 
f  a  range 
J  see  the 
le  naked 
ast  plain 
ad  west- 

of  gruel 
i  to  be  a 
ns  were 

leir  cart 
a  sail,  a 
g  them, 
Sabine 
be  con- 
er,  had 
;Ji  were 
i  party 
r  ships, 
hrorgh 
iiments 
If  teet, 
fficiont 
d  seen 
;  some 
i  after 
found 
times 
wood 
ess  of 
!  from 
above 
iionu- 
i\'hic'h 
their 


TAUUV  S    Kllihl    VUVAUIj:. 


07 


?' 


\^  ceedinffs,  a  few  coins,  and  several  naval  buttons. 

he  expedition  now  turned  back,  shaping  its  courHo  ia 
a  more  westerly  direction,  toward  some  high  blue  hills, 
which  had  long  been  in  eight.  On  many  days  several 
ptarmigans  were  shot.  The  horns  and  tracks  of  deer 
were  very  numerous. 

On  the  11th  thev  came  in  sight  of  a  deep  gulf,  to 
which  Lieutenant  hiddon's  name  was  given  ;  tlie  two 
capes  at  its  entrance  being  called  after  Bet^^hey  and 
Hoppner.  In  the  center  was  an  island  about  three-(piar- 
ters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  rising  abruptly  to  the 
height  of  700  feet.  Tne  shores  of  the  gult  were  verv 
rugged  and  precipitant,  and  in  descending  a  steep  hill, 
the  axhvtree  of  their  cart  broke,  and  they  had  to  leave 
it  behind,  taking  the  body  with  them,  however,  for  fuel. 
The  wheels,  which  were  letl  on  f  ho  spot,  may  astonish 
some  future  ad  venturer  who  discovers  them.  The  stores, 
&c.,  were  divided  among  the  officers  and  men. 

Making  their  way  on  the  ice  in  the  gulf,  the  island  in 
the  center  was  explored,  and  named  after  Mr.  Hooper, 
the  purser  of  the  Ilecla.  It  was  found  to  be  of  sand- 
stone, and  very  barren,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the 
west  side.  Four  fat  geese  were  killed  here,  and  a  great 
many  animals  were  seen  around  the  gulf ;  some  atten- 
tion being  paid  to  examining  its  shores,  &('.,  a  tine  open 
valley  was  discovered,  and  the  tracks  of  oxen  and 
deer  were  very  numerous  ;  the  pasturage  appeared  to 
be  excellent. 

On  the  13th,  a  few  ptarmigan  and  golden  plover  were 
killed.  No  less  than  thirteen  deer  in  one  herd  were 
seen,  and  a  musk  ox  for  the  first  time  in  this  season. 

The  remains  of  six  Esquimaux  huts  wei*3  discovered 
about  300  yards  from  the  beach  Vegetation  now  be- 
gan to  flourish,  the  sorrel  was  found  far  advanced,  and 
a  species  of  saxifrage  was  met  with  in  1  ^ossom.  They 
reached  the  ships  on  the  evening  of  the  15th,  after  a 
journey  of  about  180  miles. 

The  ships'  crews,  dus-ing  their  absence,  had  been  occu- 
pied in  getting  ballast  in  and  re-stowing  the  hold. 

Shooting  parties  wore  now  sent  out  in  various  direc- 


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PKOGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVER Y. 


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m 

III 

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iil 

i 

tions  to  procure  game.  Dr.  Fisher  gives  an  interestint^ 
account  of  his  ten  days'  excursion  with  a  couple  of  men. 
The  deer  were  not  so  lumerous  as  they  expected  to  find 
them.  About  thirty  were  seen,  of  which  his  party 
killed  but  two,  which  were  very  lean,  weighing  only, 
when  skinned  and  cleaned,  50  to  60  lbs.  A  couple  of 
wolves  were  seen,  and  some  foxes,  with  a  great  many 
hares,  four  of  which  were  killed,  weighing  trom  7  to  8 
lbs.  The  aquatic  birds  seen  were  —  brent  geese,  king 
ducks,  long-tailed  ducks,  and  arctic  and  glaucous  gulls. 
The  land  birds  were  ptarmigans,  plovers,  sanderlinga 
and  snow  buntings.  The  geese  were  pretty  numerous 
for  the  first  few  days,  but  got  wild  and  wary  on  being 
disturbed,  keeping  in  the  middle  of  lakes  out  of  gun- 
shot. About  a  dozen  were,  however,  killed,  and  fifteen 
ptarmigans.  These  birds  are  represented  to  be  so  stu- 
pid, that  all  seen  may  be  shot.  Dr,  Fisher  was  sur- 
prised on  his  return  on  the  29th  of  June,  after  his  ten 
days'  absence,  to  find  how  much  vegetation  had  ad- 
vanced ;  the  land  being  now  completely  clear  of  snow, 
was  covered  with  the  purple-colored  saxifrage  in  blos- 
som, with  mosses,  and  with  sorrel,  and  the  grass  was 
two  to  three  inches  long.  The  men  were  sent  out  twice 
a  week  to  collect  the  sorrel,  and  in  a  few  minutes  enough 
could  be  procured  to  make  a  salad  for  dinner.  After 
being  mixed  with  vinegar  it  was  regularly  served  out 
to  the  men.  The  English  garden  seeds  that  had  been 
sown  got  on  but  slowly,  and  did  not  yield  any  produce 
in  time  to  be  used. 

On  the  30th  of  June  "Wm.  Scott,  a  boatswain's  mate, 
who  had  been  afflicted  with  scurvy,  diarrhoea,  &c., 
died,  and  was  buried  on  the  2d  of  July  —  a  slab  ol 
sandstone  bearing  an  inscription  carved  by  Dr.  Fisher, 
being  erected  over  his  grave. 

From  observations  made  on  the  tide  during  two 
months,  it  appears  that  the  greatest  rise  and  fall  here 
is  four  feet  four  inclies.  A  large  pile  of  stones  was 
erected  on  the  14th  of  July,  upon  the  most  conspicuous 
hill,  containing  the  usual  notices,  coins,  &c.,  and  on  a 
large  stone  an  inscription  was  left,  notifying  the  winter 
iiigof  the  shi])s  liere. 


pakuy's  viust  voyage. 


99 


On  the  1st  of  August,  tlie  ships,  which  had  been  pre- 
viously warped  out,  got  clear  of  the  harbor,  and  found 
a  channel,  both  eastward  and  westward,  clear  of  ice, 
about  three  or  four  miles  in  breadth  alonff  the  land. 

On  the  6th  they  landed  on  the  island,  and  in  the 
course  of  the  night  killed  fourteen  hares  and  a  number 
of  glaucous  gulls,  which  were  found  with  their  young 
on  the  top  of  a  precipitous,  insulated  rock. 

On  the  9th  the  voyagers  had  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving an  instance  of  the  violent  pressure  that  takes 
place  occasionally  by  the  collision  of  heavy  ice.  "  Two 
pieces,"  says  Dr.  Fisher,  "  that  happened  to  come  in 
contact  close  to  us,  pressed  so  forcibly  against  one  an- 
other that  one  of  them,  although  forty-two  feet  thick, 
and  at  least  three  times  that  in  length  and  breadth,  was 
forced  up  on  its  edge  on  the  top  of  another  piece  of  ice. 
But  even  this  is  nothing  when  compared  with  the  pres- 
sure that  must  have  existed  to  produce  the  eftects  that 
we  see  along  the  shore,  for  not  only  heaps  of  earth  and 
stones  several  tons  weight  are  forced  up,  but  hummocks 
of  ice,  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  thick,  are  piled  up  on  the 
bench.  It  is  unnecessary  to  remark  that  a  ship,  although 
fortified  as  well  as  wood  and  iron  could  make  her,  would 
have  but  little  chance  of  withstanding  such  over- 
w^helming  force." 

This  day  a  musk-ox  was  shot,  which  weighed  more 
than  700  lbs.;  the  carcass,  when  skinned  and  cleaned, 
yielding  421  lbs.  of  meat.  The  flesh  did  not  taste  so 
very  strong  of  musk  as  had  been  represented. 

The  ships  made  but  slow  progress,  being  still  thickly 
beset  with  floes  of  ice,  40  or  50  fe^t  thick,  and  had  to 
make  fast  for  security  to  hummocks  of  ice  on  the  beach. 

On  the  15th  and  16th  they  were  ofi"  the  southwest 
point  of  the  island,  but  a  survey  of  the  locality  from 
the  precipitous  cliff  of  Cape  Dundas,  presented  the 
same  interminable  barrier  of  ice,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  A  bold  high  coast  was  sighted  to  the  southwest, 
to  wliich  the  name  of  Bank's  Land  was  given. 

Captain  Parry  states  that  on  the  23d  the  ships  re- 
ceived by  far  the  lieaviest  shocks  they  had  experienced 


J) 
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McMASTER  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 


lOO 


PROOKESS   UK    AliCTItl    1)IH(;0VKIJV. 


^w 


Mi!:i  I'ii; 


Pm^ 


during  the  voyage,  and  performed  six  miles  of  the  most 
ditHcult  navigation  he  had  ever  known  among  ice. 

Two  musk  bulls  were  shot  on  the  24th  by  parties  who 
landed,  out  of  a  herd  of  seven  which  were  seen.  They 
were  lighter  than  the  first  one  shot  —  weighing  only 
about  3()0  lbs.  From  the  number  of  skulls  and  skele- 
tons of  these  animals  met  with,  and  their  capabiuties 
of  enduring  the  rigor  of  the  climate,  it  seems  probable 
that  they  do  not  migrate  southward,  but  winter  on  this 
island. 

Attempts  were  still  made  to  work  to  the  eastward, 
but  on  the  25th,  from  want  of  wind,  and  the  closeness 
of  the  ice,  the  ships  were  obliged  to  make  fast  again, 
W' ithout  having  gained  above  a  mile  after  several  hours' 
labor.  A  fresh  breeze  springing  up  on  the  26th  opened 
a  passage  along  shore,  and  the  ships  made  sail  to  the 
eastward,  and  in  the  evening  were  off  their  old  quarters 
in  Winter  Harbor.  On  the  following  evening,  after  a 
tine  run,  they  were  off  tho  east  end  of  Melville  IsKnd. 
Lieut.  Parry,  this  day,  announced  to  the  officers  and 
crew  that  after  due  consideration  and  consultation,  it 
had  been  found  useless  to  prosecute  their  researches 
farther  westward,  and  therefore  endeavors  would  be 
made  in  a  more  southerly  direction,  failing  in  which, 
the  expedition  would  return  to  England.  Kegent  Inlet 
and  the  southern  shores  generally,  were  found  so  blocked 
up  with  ice,  tliat  the  return  to  England  was  on  the  30th 
ot  August  publicly  announced.  This  day.  Navy  Board 
and  Admiralty  Inlets  were  passed,  and  on  the  1st  of 
September  the  vessels  got  clear  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and 
reached  Baffin's  Bay  on  the  5th.  They  fell  in  with  a 
whaler  belonging  to  Hull,  from  whom  they  learned  the 
news  of  the  death  of  George  the  Third  and  the  Duke 
of  Kent,  and  that  eleven  vessels  having  been  lost  in  the 
ice  last  year,  fears  were  entertained  for  their  safety. 
The  Friendship,  another  Hull  whaler,  informed  them 
that  in  company  with  the  Truelove,  she  had  looked  into 
Smith's  Sound  that  summer.  The  Alexander,  of  Aber- 
deen, one  of  the  ships  employed  on  the  former  voyage 
of  discovery  to  these  seas,  had  also  entered  Lancaster 


if 


'  the  most 
^  ice. 
irties  who 
in.  They 
ling  only 
nd  skele- 
pabidties 
probable 
3r  OD  this 

eastward, 
closeness 
st  again, 
al  hours' 
h  opened 
il  to  the 
quarters 
?,  affer  a 
e  Islnnd. 
?ers  and 
atio^,  it 
searches 
ould  be 

which, 
nt  Inlet 
blocked 

le  30th 

Board 

1st  of 
lit,  and 

with  a 
led  the 

Duke 
t  in  the 

safety. 

them 
ed  into 

Aber- 
^oyage 
I caster 


TAKUV  S    SIX'OM)    VOYAGE. 


101 


Sound.  AfVor  touching  at  Clyde's  River,  where  they 
iiu't  u  good-natured  tribe  of  Esquiiiuiux,  the  ships  luude 
the  best  ot  their  way  across  the  Atlantic,  and  after  a 
somewhat  boisterous  passage,  Commodore  Parry  landed 
at  IVterhead  on  the  80tli  of  October,  and,  accompanied 
by  Capt.  Sabine  and  Mr.  Hooper,  posted  to  London. 

Parry's  Second  Yoyage,  1821—1823. 

The  experience  which  Capt.  Parry  had  formed  in  his 
previous  voyage,  led  him  to  entertain  the  opinion  that 
a  connnunication  might  be  found  between  Regent  Inlet 
and  Roe's  Welcome,  or  through  Repulse  Bay,  and  thence 
to  tiie  northwestern  shores.  Tlie  following  are  his  re- 
nuu-ks  : — "  On  an  inspection  of  the  charts  I  think  it 
will  also  appear  probable  that  a  communication  will 
one  day  be  found  to  exist  between  this  inlet  (Prince 
Regent's)  and  Hudson's  Bay,  either  through  the  broad 
and  unexplored  channel  called  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Wel- 
come, or  through  Repulse  Bay,  which  has  not  yet  been 
satisfactorily  examined.  It  is  also  probable  that  a  chan- 
nel will  be  tbund  to  exist  between  the  western  land  and 
the  northern  coast  of  America."  Again,  in  another 
place,  he  says  :  — "  Of  the  existence  of  a  northwest 
passage  to  the  Pacific  it  is  now  scarcely  possible  to 
doubt,  and  from  the  succesf  which  attended  our  efforts 
in  1819,  after  passing  tin  ..ugh  Sir  James  Lancaster's 
Sound,  we  were  not  unreasonable  in  anticipating  its 
complete  accomplishment.  But  the  season  in  which  it 
is  practicable  to  navigate  the  Polar  Seas  does  not  exceed 
seven  weeks.  From  all  that  we  observed  it  seems  desir- 
able that  ships  endeavoring  to  reach  the  Pacific  Ocean 
by  this  route  should  keep  if  possible  on  the  coast  of 
America,  and  the  lower  in  latitude  that  coast  may  be 
found,  the  more  favorable  will  it  prove  for  the  purpose ; 
hence  Cumberland  Strait,  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Welcome, 
and  Repulse  Bay  appear  to  be  the  points  most  worthy 
of  attention.  I  cannot,  therefore,  but  consider  that  any 
expedition  equipped  by  Great  Britain  with  this  view 


^1 
I 

PI  i:? 
"H  -! 


il 


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» . 

I 


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I 


Wm 


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rli 


102 


PROGRESS   OF  AKCTIC   DI8C0VEKY. 


I   ' 


i,(    i 


If  > 


ought  to  employ  its  best  energies  in  attempting  to  pene- 
trate from  the  eastern  coayt  ot*  America  ak)ng  its  north- 
ern shore.  In  consequence  of  the  partial  success  which 
has  hitherto  attended  our  attempts,  the  whalers  have 
already  extended  their  views,  and  a  new  lield  has  been 
opened  lor  one  of  the  most  lucrative  branches  of  our 
commerce,  and  what  is  scarcely  of  less  importance,  one 
of  the  most  valuable  nurseries  for  seamen  which  Great 
Britain  possesses."* 

Pleased  with  his  former  zeal  and  enterpnse,  and  in 
order  to  give  him  an  opportunity  of  testing  the  truth 
of  his  observations,  a  few  months  after  he  returned  home, 
the  Admiralty  gave  Parry  the  command  of  another  ex- 
pedition, with  instructions  to  proceed  to  Iludson^s  Strait, 
and  penetrate  to  the  'westward,  until  in  Repulse  Bay, 
or  on  some  other  part  of  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  to 
the  north  of  Wager  River,  he  should  reach  the  westei'ii 
coast  of  the  continent.  Failing  in  these  quarters,  he 
was  to  keep  along  the  coast,  carefully  examining  every 
bend  or  inlet,  which  should  appear  likely  to  afford  a 
practicable  passage  to  the  westward. 

The  vessels  commissioned,  with  their  officers  and 
crews,  were  the  following.  Several  of  the  officers  of  the 
former  expedition  were  promoted,  and  those  who  had 
been  on  the  last  voyage  with  Parry  I  have  marked  with 
an  asterisk : — 


Fury. 

Commander — *"W.  E.  Parry. 

Chaplain  and  Astronomer  —  Rev.  Geo.  Fisher,  (was 
in  the  Dorothea,  under  Capt.  Buchan,  in  1818.) 

Lieutenants  — *J.  Nias  and  *A.  Reid. 

Surgeon  — *J.  Edwards. 

Purser — '^W.  H.  Hooper. 

Assistant-Surgeon — J.  Skeoch. 

Midshipmen  — *  J.  C.  Ross,  *  J.  Bushnan,  J.  Hender- 
son, F.  R.  M.  Crozier. 


•Parry's  First  Voyage,  vol.  ii,  p.  240. 


PARIJY  S   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


103 


0  pene- 
s  iiortli- 
s  wfiich 
rs  have 
as  been 
}  of  our 

ICO,  Olio 

h  (ireut 

and  in 
e  truth 
i  homo, 
"her  ox- 

Struit, 
30  Bay, 
Bav  to 
vorttei'n 
ers,  }ie 
X  every 
fford  a 


',  (was 


ender- 


Greenland  Pilots — '^J.  Allison,  master ;  G.  Grawturd, 

mate. 
47  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  GO. 

Hecla, 

Commander — G.  F.  Lyon. 

Lieutenants  — *IL  P.  Hoppner  and  *C.  Palmer. 

Surgeon  — '^A.  Fisher. 

Purser  —  J.  Germain. 

Assistant-Surgeon  —  A.  M'Laren. 

Midshipmen  — ^^W.  N.  Griffiths,  J.  Sherer,  C.  Kich- 

ards,  E.  J.  Bird. 
Greenland  Pilots  — *G.  Fife,  master;  *A.  Elder,  mate. 
46  Petty  Officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  58. 

Lieutenant  Lyon,  the  second  in  command,  had  ob 
tained  some  reputation  from  his  travels  in  Tripoli, 
Mourzouk,  and  other  parts  of  Northern  Africa,  and  was 
raised  to  tlie  rank  of  Commander,  on  his  appointment 
to  the  Hecla,  and  received  his  promotion  as  Captain, 
when  the  expedition  returned. 

The  ships  were  accompanied  as  far  as  the  ice  by 
the  Nautilus  transport,  freighted  with  provisions  and 
stores,  which  were  to  be  transhipped  as  soon  as  room 
was  found  for  them. 

The  vessels  got  away  from  the  little  Nore  early  on 
the  8th  of  May,  1821,  but  meeting  with  strong  gales 
off  the  Greenland  coast,  and  a  boisterous  passage,  did 
not  fall  in  with  the  ice  until  the  middle  of  June. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  in  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south- 
ward, the  sea  stove  and  carried  away  one  of  the  quar- 
ter boats  of  the  Hecla.  On  the  following  day,  in  lat. 
60°  53'  ]Sr.,  long.  61°  39'  W.,  they  made  the  pack  or 
main  body  of  ice,  having  many  large  bergs  in  and 
near  it.  On  the  19th,  Eesolution  Island,  at  the  en- 
trance of  Hudson's  Strait,  was  seen  distant  sixty-four 
miles.      Capt.  Lyon  states,  that  duung   one  of   the 


'I '. 


104 


PliOGREfiS    OF    ARCTIC   1)I8C0\T':KY. 


¥r-   'I 


I  I"  :" 


watches,  a  large  fragment  was  observed  to  fall  frons 
an  iceberg  near  the  Jlecla,  which  threw  up  the  watei 
to  a  great  height,  sending  forth  at  the  same  time  a 
noise  like  the  report  of  a  great  gun.  From  this  pe- 
riod to  the  1st  of  July,  the  ships  were  occupied  in 
clearing  the  Nautilus  of  her  stores,  preparatory  to 
her  return  home,  occasionally  made  fast  to  a  berg,  or 
driven  out  to  sea  by  gales.  On  the  2d,  after  running 
through  heavy  ice,  they  again  made  Resolution  Island, 
and  shaping  their  course  for  the  Strait,  were  soon  in- 
troduced to  the  company  of  some  unusually  large  ice- 
bergs. The  altitude  of  one  was  258  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  sea ;  its  total  height,  therefore,  allowing 
one-seventh  only  to  be  visible,  must  have  been  aboul 
1806  feet!  This  however,  is  supposing  the  base  un 
der  water  not  to  spread  beyond  the  mass  above  water 
The  vessels  had  scarcely  drifted  past  this  floating 
mountain,  when  the  eddy  tide  carried  them  with  great 
rapidity  among  a  cluster  of  eleven  bergs  of  Luge 
size,  and  having  a  beautiful  diversity  of  form.  The 
largest  of  these  was  210  feet  above  the  water.  The 
floe  ice  was  running  wildly  at  the  rate  of  three  miles 
an  hour,  sweeping  the  vessels  past  the  bergs,  against 
any  one  of  which,  they  might  have  received  incalcu- 
lable injury.  An  endeavor  was  made  to  make  the 
ships  fast  to  one  of  them,  (for  all  of  them  were  aground,) 
in  order  to  ride  out  the  tide,  but  it  proved  unsuccess- 
ful, and  the  Fury  had  much  difficulty  in  sending  a 
boat  for  some  men  who  were  on  a  small  berg,  making 
holes  for  her  ice  anchors.  They  were  therefore  swept 
past  and  soon  beset.  Fifty-four  icebergs  were  count^jd 
from  the  mast-head. 

On  the  3d,  they  made  some  progress  through  very 
heavy  floes  ;  but  on  the  tide  turning,  the  loose  ice  flew 
together  with  such  rapidity  and  noise,  that  there  was 
barely  time  to  secure  the  ships  in  a  natural  dock,  be- 
fore the  two  streams  met,  and  even  then  they  received 
some  heavy  shocks.  Water  was  procured  for  use 
from  the  pools  in  the  floe  to  which  the  ships  were 
made  fast;  and  this  being  the  first  time  of  doing  so, 


at 


parry's  second  voyage. 


105 


afforded  great  amusement  to  the  novices,  who,  even 
when  it  was  their  period  of  rest,  preferred  i)elting 
each  other  with  snow-balls,  to  going  to  bed.  Buffet 
ino"  with  eddies,  strong  currents,  and  dangerous  bergs, 
they  were  kept  in  a  state  of  anxiety  and  danger,  for 
a  week  or  ten  days.  On  one  occasion,  with  the  pros- 
pect of  being  driven  on  shore,  the  pressure  they  ex- 
perienced was  so  great,  that  five  hawsers,  six  inches 
thick,  were  carried  away,  and  the  best  bower  anchor 
of  the  Hecla  was  wrenched  from  the  bows,  and  broke 
off  at  the  head  of  the  shank,  with  as  much  ease  as  if, 
instead  of  weighing  upward  of  a  ton,  it  had  been  of 
crockery  ware.  For  a  week  they  were  embayed  by 
the  ice,  and  during  this  period  they  saw  three  strange 
ships,  also  beset,  under  Resolution  Island,  which  they 
contrived  to  join  on  the  16th  of  July,  making  fast  to 
a  floe  near  them.  They  proved  to  be  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  traders,  Prince  of  Wales,  and  Eddystone, 
with  the  Lord  Wellington,  chartered  to  convey  160 
natives  of  Holland,  who  were  proceeding  to  settle  on 
Lord  Selkirk's  estate,  at  the  Red  River.  "  While 
nearing  these  vessels,  (says  Lyon,)  we  observed  the 
settlers  waltzing  on  deck,  for  above  two  hours,  the 
men  in  old-fashioned  gray  jackets,  and  the  women 
wearing  long-eared  mob  caps,  like  those  used  by  the 
Swiss  peasants.  As  we  were  surrounded  by  ice,  and 
the  thermometer  was  at  the  freezing  point,  it  may  be 
supposed  that  this  ball,  al  vero  fresco^  afforded  us 
much  amusement."  The  Hudson's  Bay  ships  had 
left  England  twenty  days  after  the  expedition. 

The  emigrant  ship  had  been  hampered  nineteen 
days  among  the  ice  before  she  joined  the  others  ; 
and  as  this  navigation  was  new  to  her  captain  and  crew, 
they  almost  despaired  of  ever  getting  to  their  jour- 
ney's end,  so  varied  and  constant  had  been  their  im- 
pediments. The  Dutchmen  had,  however,  behaved 
very  philosophically  during  this  period,  and  seemed 
determined  on  being  merry,  in  spite  of  the  weather 
and  the  dangers.  Several  marriages  had  taken  place, 
the  surgeon,  who  was  accompanying  them  to  the  col- 


5) 


!l 


!'' 


ft 
0)     , 

IT", 

aj   1 
1/1   ' 


w 


f    i 


h\ 


ft. 

1  i 


106 


PKOGKKSS   OF   ARCTIO   DISCOVKRY. 


l!,W'' 


ony,  officiating  as  clergyman,)  and  many  more  were 
in  agitation  ;  eacli  happy  couple  always  deterring  the 
ceremony  until  a  tihe  day  allowed  of  an  evening  ball, 
which  was  only  terminated  by  a  fresh  breeze,  or  a  fall 
of  snow.*  On  the  17th,  the  ships  were  separated  by 
the  ice,  and  they  saw  no  more  of  their  visitors.  On 
the  2l8t,  they  were  only  oft'  the  Lower  Savage  Islands. 
In  the  evening  they  saw  a  very  large  bear  lying  on  a 
piece  of  ice,  and  two  boats  were  instantly  sent  oft"  in 
chase.  They  approached  very  close  before  he  took 
to  the  water,  when  ho  swam  rapidly,  and  made  long 
springs,  turning  boldly  to  face  his  pursuers.  It  was 
with  difiiculty  he  was  captured.  As  these  animals, 
although  very  fat  and  bulky,  sink  the  instant  they  die, 
he  was  lashed  to  a  boat,  and  brought  alongside  the 
ship.  On  hoisting  him  in,  they  were  astonished  to 
find  that  his  weight  exceeded  sixteen  hundred  pounds, 
being  one  of  the  largest  ever  killed.  Two  instances, 
only,  of  larger  bears  being  shot  are  recorded,  and 
these  were  by  Barentz's  crew,  in  his  third  voyage,  at 
Cherie  Island,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Bear 
Island.  The  two  bears  killed  then,  measured  twelve 
and  thirteen  feet,  while  this  one  only  measured  eight 
feet  eight  inches,  from  the  snout  to  the  insertion  of  the 
tail.  The  seamen  ate  the  flesh  without  experiencing 
any  of  those  baneful  effects  which  old  navigators  at- 
tribute to  it,  and  which  are  stated  to  have  made  three 
of  Barentz's  people  "  so  sick  that  we  expected  they 
would  have  died,  and  their  skins  peeled  off  from 
head  to  foot."  Bruin  was  very  fat,  and  having  pro- 
cured a  tub  of  blubber  from  the  carcass,  it  was  thrown 
over  board,  and  the  smell  soon  attracted  a  couple 
of  walruses,  the  first  that  had  been  yet  seen. 

They  here  fell  in  with  a  numerous  body  of  the  Es 
quimaux,  who  visited  them  from  the  shore.  In  less 
than  an  hour  the  ships  were  beset  with  thirty  "  ka- 
yaks," or  men's  canoes,  and  five  of  the  women's  large 
Doats,  or  "  oomiaks."  Some  of  the  latter  held  up- 
ward of  twenty  women.  A  most  noisy  but  merry 
barter  instantly  took  place,  the  crew  being  as  anxious 

*  Lyon's  Private  Journal,  p.  11. 


parky's  second  voyage. 


107 


to  pnrcliasG  Esquimaux  curiosities,  as  the  natives  were 
to  procure  iron  and  European  toys. 

^•It  is  quite  out  of  my  ].jwer,  (observes  Captain 
Lyon,)  to  describe  the  shouts,  yells,  and  laughter  of 
tlie  savages,  or  the  confusion  which  existed  for  two  or 
tliree  hours.  The  females  were  at  first  very  shy,  and 
unwilling  to  come  on  the  ice,  but  bartered  every  thing 
from  their  boats.  This  timidity,  however,  soon  wore 
off,  and  they,  in  the  end,  became  as  noisy  and  bois- 
terous as  the  men."  "  It  is  scarcely  possible,  (he  adds) 
to  conceive  any  thing  more  ugly  or  disgusting  than 
the  countenances  of  the  old  women,  who  had  intlamed 
eyes,  wrinkled  skin,  black  teeth,  and,  in  fact,  such  a 
forbidding  set  of  features  as  scarcely  could  be  called 
human  ;  to  which  might  be  added  their  dress,  which 
was  such  as  gave  them  the  appearance  of  aged  ourang- 
outangs.  Frobisher's  crew  may  be  pardoned  for  hav- 
ing, in  such  superstitious  times  as  a.  d.  1576,  taken 
one  of  these  ladies  for  a  witch,  of  whom  it  is  said, 
'  The  old  wretch  whom  our  sailors  supposed  to  be  a 
witch,  had  her  buskins  pulled  oiF,  to  see  if  she  was 
cloven-footed  ;  and  being  very  ugly  and  deformed,  we 
let  her  go.'  " 

In  bartering  they  have  a  singular  custom  of  ratify- 
ing the  bargain,  by  licking  the  article  all  over  before 
it  is  put  away  in  security.  Captain  Lyon  says  be  fre- 
quently shuddered  at  seeing  the  children  draw  a  razor 
over  their  tongue,  as  unconcernedly  as  if  it  had  been 
an  ivory  paper-knife.  I  cannot  forbear  quoting  here 
some  humorous  passages  from  his  journal,  which  stand 
out  in  relief  to  the  scientific  and  nautical  parts  of  the 
narrative. 

"  The  strangers  were  so  well  pleased  in  our  society, 
that  they  showed  no  wish  to  leave  us,  and  when  the 
market  had  quite  ceased,  they  began  dancing  and 
playing  with  our  people,  on  the  ice  alongside.  This 
exercise  set  many  of  their  noses  bleeding,  and  discov- 
ered to  us  a  most  nasty  custom,  which  accounted  for 
their  gory  faces,  and  which  was,  that  as  fast  as  the 
blood  ran  down,  they  scraped  it  with  the  fingers 
7  E 


I 


iiiiii 


1 

I' 

ri 
^    i 

a: 


I'l 


ii 


i 


i  .1 


:'h 


■  a 


I 

,if' 

11 

m 


108 


nioauESft  OF  Aiuriio  disco vi:jiy. 


't  ( 


into  their  moutlis,  appearing  to  considci*  it  as  a  re- 
freshnient,  or  diiiiiLy,  it*  wo  luigiit  jiidgu  by  the  /est 
with  whicli  they  sniacked  their  lips  at  eacii  8iipi)]y." 


* 


* 


•» 


* 


•» 


•x- 


"In  order  to  amnso  our  new  acquaintances  as  nnicli 
a8  possible,  the  fiddler  was  sent  on  the  ice,  whero  ho 
instantly  found  a  most  delightful  set  of  dancers,  of 
whom  some  of  the  women  kept  pretty  good  time. 
Their  only  figure  consisted  in  stamping  and  jiimj)ing 
with  all  their  might.  Our  musician,  wlio  was  a  lively 
fellow,  soon  caught  the  infection,  and  began  cutting 
capers  also.  In  a  sliort  time  every  one  on  the  floe, 
otHcers,  men,  and  savages,  wore  dancing  together,  and 
exhibited  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  sights  I  ever 
witnessed.  One  of  our  seamen,  of  a  fresh,  ruddy 
complexion,  excited  the  admiration  of  all  the  young 
females,  who  patted  his  face,  and  danced  around  him 
wherever  he  went. 

"  The  exertion  of  dancing  so  exhilarated  the  Esqui- 
maux, that  they  had  the  appearance  of  being  boister- 
ously drunk,  and  played  many  extraordinary  pranks. 
Among  others,  it  was  a  favorite  joke  to  run  slily  be- 
hind the  seamen,  and  shouting  loudly  in  one  ear,  to 
give  them  at  the  same  time  a  very  smart  slap  on  the 
other.  While  looking  on,  I  was  sharply  saluted  in  this 
manner,  and,  of  course,  was  quite  startled,  to  the 
great  amusement  of  the  bystanders :  our  cook,  who 
was  a  most  active  and  unwearied  jumper,  became  so 
great  a  favorite,  that  every  one  boxed  his  ears  so 
soundly,  as  to  oblige  the  poor  man  to  retire  from  such 
boisterous  marks  of  ai3probation.  Among  other 
sports,  some  of  the  Esquimaux  rather  roughly,  but 
with  great  good  humor,  challenged  our  people  to 
wrestle.  One  man,  in  particular,  who  had  thrown  sev- 
eral of  his  countrymen,  attacked  an  ofHcer  of  a  very 
strong  make,  but  the  poor  savage  was  instantly  thrown, 
and  with  no  very  easy  fall ;  yet,  although  every  one 
was  laughing  at  him,  he  bore  it  w^ith  exemplary  good 
humor.  The  same  officer  afforded  us  much  diversion 
by  teaching  a  large  party  of  women  to  bow,  courtesy, 


PAKIiY  I*   SKCONI)    VOYAOK. 


109 


fihrtko  liandfl,  turn  their  toes  out,  and  perform  sun- 
dry otlier  polite  accoiuplishnienU  ;  the  whole  party 
master  and  pu[»ils,  preservinfj^  tho  wtrictest  gravity. 

"Toward  midnight  all  our  men,  except  the  watch  on 
deck,  turned  in  to  tiieir  bedn,  and  the  latlguctl  and 
hun^-ry  Es([uimaux  returned  to  their  boats  to  take  ^hcir 
BUppor,  which  conrtisted  of  lumps  of  raw  llesh  and  blub- 
ber of  seals,  birds,  entrails,  &c.  ;  licking  their  lingers 
with  great  zest,  and  with  knives  or  fingers  scraping  the 
blood  and  grease  which  ran  down  their  chins  into  their 
mouths." 

Many  other  parties  of  the  natives  were  fallen  in  with 
during  the  slow  progress  of  the  ships,  between  Salisbury 
and  ^  ottingham  Islands,  who  were  equally  us  eager  to 
beg,  barter,  or  thieve  ;  and  the  mouth  was  the  general 
repository  of  most  of  the  treasures  they  received  ;  nee- 
dles, pins,  nails,  buttons,  beads,  and  other  sinall  etcete- 
ras, being  indiscriminately  stowed  there,  but  detracting 
in  nowise  from  their  volubility  of  speech.  On  the  18th 
of  August  the  w^eather  being  calm  and  fine,  norwhals  or 
sea-unicorns,  were  very  numerous  about  the  ships,  and 
boats  were  sent,  but  without  success,  to  strike  one. 
Tliero  were  sometimes  as  many  as  twenty  of  these 
beautiful  fish  in  a  shoal,  lifting  at  times  their  immense 
horn  above  the  water,  and  at  others  showing  their 
glossy  backs,  which  were  spotted  in  the  manner  of 
coach  dogs  in  England.  The  length  of  these  fish  is 
about  fifteen  feet,  exclusive  of  the  horn,  which  averages 
five  or  six  more. 

Captain  Parry  landed  and  slept  on  Southampton  Isl- 
and. His  boat's  crew  caught  in  holes  on  the  beach 
sufficient  sillocks,  or  young  coal-fish,  to  serve  for  two 
meals  for  the  whole  ship's  company.  During  the  night 
white  whales  were  seen  lying  in  hundreds  close  to  the 
rocks,  probably  feeding  on  the  sillocks.  After  carefully 
examining  Duke  of  York  Bay,  the  ships  got  into  the 
Frozen  Strait  of  Middleton  on  the  morning  of  the  20th, 
and  an  anxious  day  was  closed  by  passing  an  oi^ening 
to  the  southward,  which  was  found  to  be  Sir  Thomas 
Roe's  Welcome,  and  heaving  to  for  the  night  off  a  bay 


IF 


':i 


110 


PEOGRESS   OF    ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


it 

till;: 


11'  ^ii 


ift»'/ 


gim 


nil  I 


Jill'" 

m 
I 

i 


to  the  north w  The  ships  got  well  in  to  Hepulse 
Bay  on  the  22l^  nd  a  careful  examination  of  its  shores 
was  made  by  the  boats. 

Captains  Parry  and  Lyon,  with  several  officers  from 
each  ship,  landed  and  explored  the  northern  shores, 
while  a  boat  examined  the  head  of  tire  bay.  The  wa- 
ters of  a  long  cove  are  described  by  Captain  Lyon  as 
being  absolutely  hidden  by  the  quantities  of  young 
eider-ducks,  which,  under  the  direction  of  their  moth- 
ers, were  making  their  first  essays  in  swimming. 

Captain  Lyon  with  a  boat's  crew  made  a  trip  of  a 
couple  of  days  along  some  of  the  indents  of  the  bay, 
and  discovered  an  inlet,  which,  however,  on  being  en- 
tered subsequently  by  the  ships,  proved  only  to  be  the 
dividing  channel  between  an  island  and  the  main-land, 
about  six  miles  in  length  by  one  in  breadth.  Proceed- 
ing to  the  northward  by  Hurd's  channel,  they  expe- 
rienced a  long  rolling  ground  swell  setting  against  them. 
On  the  28th,  ascending  a  steep  mountain.  Captains 
Lyon  discovered  a  noble  bay,  subsequently  named  Gor  » 
Bay,  in  which  lay  a  few  islands,  and  toward  this  the"  i 
directed  their  course. 

Captain  Parry,  who  had  been  two  days  absent  wit*i 
boats  exploring  the  channel  and  shores  of  the  strait,  rr~ 
turned  on  the  29th,  but  set  oft'  again  on  the  same  day 
with  six  boats  to  sound  and  examine  more  minutel;'. 
When  Parry  returned  at  night,  Mr.  Griffiths,  of  tf  e 
Heel  a,  brought  on  board  a  large  doe,  which  he  h&d 
killed  while  swimming  (among  large  masses  of  ice)  fro.  a 
isle  to  isle  ;  two  others  and  a  fawn  were  procured  c  n 
shore  by  the  Fury's  people.  The  game  laws,  as  thv  y 
were  laid  down  on  the  former  voyage  while  winteri\  3 
at  Melville  Island,  were  once  more  put  in  force.  The  ta 
'^enacted  that  for  the  purpose  of  economizing  the  shi<\'s 
provisions,  all  deer  or  musk-oxen  killed  should  6e 
served  out  in  lieu  of  the  usual  allowance  of  meat. 
Hares,  ducks,  and  other  birds  were  not  at  this  time  to 
be  included.  As  an  encouragement  to  sportsmen,  the 
head,  legs,  and  oftal  of  the  larger  animals  were  to  bo 
the  perquisites  of  those  who  procured  the  carcasses  for 


PAPwRY  8   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


Ill 


the  general  good."  "  In  the  animals  of  this  day  (ob- 
serves Lyon)  we  were  convinced  that  our  sportsmen 
had  not  forgotten  the  latitude  to  which  their  perquisites 
might  legally  extend,  for  the  necks  were  made  so  long 
as  to  encroach  considerably  on  the  vertebrae  of  the 
back ;  a  manner  of  amputating  the  heads  which  had 
been  learned  during  the  former  voyage,  and,  no  doubt, 
would  be  strictly  acted  up  to  in  the  present  one." 

While  the  ships  on  the  30th  were  proceeding  through 
this  strait,  having  to  contend  with  heavy  wind  and 
wild  ice,  which  with  an  impetuous  tide  ran  against  the 
rocks  with  loud  crashes,  at  the  rate  of  five  knots  in  the 
center  stream ;  four  boats  towing  astern  were  torn 
away  by  the  ice,  and,  with  the  men  in  them,  were  for 
some  time  in  great  danger.  The  vessels  anchored  for 
the  night  in  a  small  nook,  and  weighing  at  daylight 
on  the  31st,  they  stood  to  the  eastward,  but  Gore  Bay 
was  found  closely  packed  with  ice,  and  most  of  the  in- 
lets they  passed  were  also  beset. 

A  prevalence  of  fog,  northerly  wind,  and  heavy  ice 
in  floes  of  some  miles  in  circumference,  now  carried 
the  ships,  in  spite  of  constant  labor  and  exertions,  in 
three  days,  back  to  the  very  spot  in  Fox's  Channel, 
where  a  month  ago  they  had  commenced  their  opera- 
tions. It  was  not  till  the  5th  of  September,  that  they 
could  again  get  forward,  and  then  by  one  of  the  usual 
changes  in  the  navigation  of  these  seas,  the  ships  rar 
well  to  the  northeast  unimpeded,  at  the  rate  of  six 
knots  an  hour,  anchoring  for  the  night  at  the  mouth  of 
a  large  opening,  which  was  named  Lyon  Inlet.  The 
next  day  they  proceeded  about  twenty-five  miles  up 
this  inlet,  which  appeared  to  be  about  eight  miles  broad. 
Captain  Parry  pushed  on  with  two  boats  to  examine 
the  head  of  the  inlet,  taking  provisions  for  a  week. 
He  returned  on  the  14th,  having  failed  in  finding  any 
outlet  to  the  place  he  had  been  examining,  which  was 
very  extensive,  full  of  fiords  and  rapid  overfalls  of  the 
tide.  He  had  procured  a  sufiiciency  of  game  to  afford 
his  people  a  hot  supper  every  evening,  which,  after  the 
constant  labor  of  the  day,  was  highly  acceptable.    He 


':  It: 


ii^'L 


fU:} 


■i  '  i     i 


■■ 


112 


PKOGKESS  OF  MiCTIC   DISCOVEU'V. 


Ms 


II 


fell  in  also  with  a  small  party  of  natives  a^  Ivo  displayed 
the  usual  thieving  propensities. 

Animal  food  of  all  kinds  was  found  to  be  very  plen- 
tiful in  this  locality.  A  fine  salmon  trout  was  brought 
down  by  one  of  the  officers  from  a  lake  in  the  moun- 
tains. The  crew  of  the  Hecla  killed  in  a  fortnight  four 
deer,  forty  hares,  eighty -two  ptarmigan,  fifty  ducks, 
three  divers,  three  foxes,  three  ravens,  four  seals,  er- 
mines, marmottes,  mice,  &c.  Two  of  the  seals  killed 
were  immense  animals  of  the  bearded  species  {Phoca 
harhata^  very  fat,  weighing  about  eight  or  nine  cwt.; 
the  others  were  the  common  species,  {P.  mtulina.) 

Captain  Parry  again  left  in  boats,  on  the  15th,  to  ex- 
amine more  carefully  the  land  that  had  been  passed  so 
rapidly  on  the  5th  and  6th.  Not  finding  him  return 
on  the  24th,  Captain  Lyon  ran  down  the  coast  to  meet 
him,  and  by  burning  blue  lights,  fell  in  with  him  at 
ten  that  night.  It  appeared  he  had  been  frozen  up 
for  two  days  on  the  second  evening  after  leaving. 
When  he  got  clear  he  ran  down  to,  and  sailed  round, 
Gore  Bay,  at  that  time  perfectly  clear  of  ice,  but  by 
the  next  morning  it  was  quite  filled  with  heavy  pieces, 
which  much  impeded  his  return.  Once  more  he  was 
frozen  up  in  a  small  bay,  where  he  was  detained  three 
days  ;  when,  finding  there  was  no  chance  of  getting 
out,  in  consequence  of  the  rapid  formation  of  young 
ice,  by  ten  hours'  severe  labor,  the  boats  were  carried 
over  a  low  point  of  land,  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and 
once  more  launched. 

On  the  6th  of  October,  the  impediments  of  ice  con- 
tinuing to  increase,  being  met  with  in  all  its  formations 
of  sludges  or  young  ice,  pancake  ice  and  bay  ice,  a 
small  open  bay  within  a  cape  of  land,  forming  the 
southeast  extremity  of  an  island  off  Lyon  Inlet,  was 
sounded,  and  being  found  to  be  safe  anchorage  the  ships 
were  brought  in,  and,  from  the  indications  which  were 
Betting  in,  it  was  finally  determined  to  secure  them  there 
for  the  winter ;  by  means  of  a  canal  half  a  mile  long, 
which  was  cut,  they  were  taken  further  into  the  bay. 
The  island  was  named  Winter  Isle. 

Preparations  were  now  made   for  occupation   and 


PARKY  S   SECOND    VOYAGE. 


113 


amusement,  so  as  to  pass  away  pleasantly  the  period 
of  detention.  A  good  stock  of  tlieatrical  dresses  and 
properties  having  been  laid  in  by  the  officers  before 
leaving  England,  arrangements  were  made  for  perform- 
in"*  plays  fortnightly,  as  on  their  last  winter  residence, 
asli  means  of  amusing  the  seamen,  and  in  some  degree 
to  break  the  tedious  monotony  of  their  confinement.  A  s 
there  could  be  no  desire  or  hope  of  excelling,  every 
officer's  name  was  readily  entered  on  the  list  of  dra- 
matis personoB^  Captain  Lyon  kindly  undertaking  the 
difficult  office  of  manager.  Those  ladies  (says  Lyon) 
who  had  cherished  the  growth  of  their  beards  ana 
whiskers,  as  a  defense  against  the  inclemency  of  the 
climate,  now  generously  agreed  to  do  away  with  such 
unfeminine  ornaments,  and  every  thing  bade  fair  for  a 
most  stylish  theater. 

As  a  curiosity,  I  may  here  put  on  record  the  play 
bill  for  the  evening.    I  have  added  the  ship  to  which 
each  officer  beloncjed. 


THEATER  ROYAL, 

WINTER  ISLE. 


The  Public  are  respectfully  informed  that  this  little, 
yet  elegant  Theater,  will  open  for  the  season  on  Fri- 
day next,  the  9th  of  November,  1821,  when  will  be 
performed  Sheridan's  celebrated  Comedy  of 

THE  RIVALS. 

Sir  Anthony  Absolute  Captain  Parry,  (Fury.) 
Captain  Absolute  -  -  Captain  Lyon,  {Hecla.) 
S^r  Lucius  0^  Trigger,  Mr.  Crozier,  {Fury) 
~  -     -    -     Mr.  J.  Edwards,  {Fury.) 


Faulhland, 
Acres,    .    -    - 
Fay,^    -    .    -    . 
David,  -    -    - 
Mrs.  Malap7'op, 
Jalia,     -     -    - 
Lydia  Languish, 


Mr.  J.  Henderson,  {Fury.) 
Lieut  lloppner,  (llecla^ 
Lieut.  Reid,  {Fury.) 
Mr.  C.  Richards,  {Mecla) 
Mr.  W.  H.  Hooper,  {Fury) 
Mr.  J.  Sherer,  {Hecla) 


Lucy, M.v.'W.'M.ogg,{crkofirecla.) 


114: 


PROGlilMB   OF   AllCTIU   DISCO\"EIiY. 


il-l 


ii;i!' 


ri 


Songs  by  Messrs.  C.  Palmer,  (Hecla,)  and  J.  Hen- 
derson, will  be  introduced  in  the  course  of  the  eve- 


ning. 


On  the  17th  of  December,  a  shivering  set  of  actors 
performed  to  a  great-coated,  yet  very  cold  audience, 
the  comedy  of  the  "  Poor  Gentleman."  A  burst  of 
true  English  feeling  was  exhibited  during  the  perform- 
ance of  this  play.  In  the  scene  where  Lieut.  Wo7'th' 
ington  and  Corporal  Foss  recount  in  so  animated  a 
manner  their  former  achievements,  advancing  at  the 
same  time,  and  huzzaing  for  "  Old  England,"  the 
whole  audience,  with  one  accord,  rose  and  gave  three 
most  hearty  cheers.  The}'  then  sat  down,  and  the 
play  continued  uninterrupted. 

On  Christmas  Eve,  in  order  to  keep  the  people 
quiet  and  sober,  two  farces  were  performed,  and  the 
phantasmagoria,  (which  had  been  kindly  presented 
anonymously  to  the  ships  before  leaving,  by  a  lady,) 
exhibited,  so  that  the  night  passed  merrily  away. 

The  coldness  of  the  weather  proved  no  bar  to  the 
performance  of  a  play  at  the  appointed  time.  If  it 
amused  the  seamen,  the  purpose  was  answered,  but  it 
was  a  cruel  task  to  performers.  "  In  our  green-room, 
(says  Lyon,)  which  was  as  much  warmed  as  any  other 
part  of  the  Theater,  the  thermometer  stood  at  16°,  and 
on  a  table  which  was  placed  over  a  stove,  and  about 
six  inches  above  it,  the  coffee  froze  in  the  cups.  For 
my  sins,  I  was  obliged  to  be  dressed  in  the  height  of 
the  ftishion,  as  Dich  Dowlas^  in  the  "  Heir  at  Law," 
and  went  through  the  last  scene  of  the  play  with 
two  of  my  fingers  frost-bitten  !  Let  those  who  have 
witnessed  and  admired  the  performances  of  a  Young, 
answer  if  he  could  possibly  ha»^e  stood  so  cold  a  recep- 
tion." 

Captain  Parry  also  states  in  his  Journal,  "  Among 
the  recreations  which  afforded  the  highest  gratifica- 
tion to  several  among  us,  I  may  mention  the  musical 
parties  we  were  enabled  to  muster,  and  which  assem- 
bled on  stated  evenings  throughout  the  winter,  alter 


PAKRYS   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


115 


nately  in  Commander  Lyon's  cabin,  and  in  my  own. 
More  skillful  amatem's  in  music  might  well  have  smiled 
at  these,  our  humble  concerts,  but  it  will  not  incline 
them  to  think  less  of  the  science  they  admire,  to  be 
assured  that,  in  these  remote  and  desolate  regions  of 
the  globe,  it  has  often  furnished  us  with  the  most 
pleasurable  sensations  which  our  situation  was  capable 
of  aflbrding  ;  for,  independently  of  the  mere  gratifica- 
tion afforded  to  the  ear  by  music,  there  is,  perhaps, 
scarcely  a  person  in  the  world  really  fond  of  it,  in 
whose  mind  its  sound  is  not  more  or  less  connected 
with  '  his  far  distant  home.'  There  are  always  some 
remembrances  which  render  them  inseparable,  and 
those  associations  are  not  to  be  despised,  which,  while 
we  are  engaged  in  the  performance  of  our  duty,  can 
still  occasionally  transport  us  into  the  social  circle  of 
our  friends  at  home,  in  spite  of  the  oceans  that  roll  be- 
tween us."  But  their  attention  was  not  confined  to 
mere  amusements.  Much  to  the  credit  of  the  seamen, 
an  application  was  made  in  each  ship  for  permission 
to  open  an  evening  school,  which  was  willingly  ac- 
ceded to.  Almost  every  man  could  read,  and  some 
could  write  a  little,  but  several  found  that,  from  long 
disuse,  it  was  requisite  to  begin  again. 

Mr.  Halse  volunteered  to  superintend  the  classes  in 
theFury;  while  Benjamin  White,a  seaman,  who  had  been 
educated  at  Christ's  Hospital,  officiated  as  schoolmaster 
in  the  Hecla,  and  those  best  qualified  to  assist  aided 
in  the  instruction  of  their  shipmates,  who  made  rapid 
progress  under  their  tuition.  On  Christmas  Day,  Capt. 
Lyon  states  that  he  received  sixteen  copies  from  men, 
who,  two  months  before,  scarcely  knew  their  letters. 
These  little  specimens  were  all  well  written,  and  sent 
with  as  much  prido  as  if  the  writers  had  been  goo4 
little  schoolboys,  instead  of  stout  and  excellent  seamen. 

An  observatory  was  erected  on  shore,  for  carrying 
on  magnetical,  astronomical,  and  other  scientific  opera- 
tions. Foxes  were  very  plentiful  about  the  ships ;  fifteen 
were  caught  in  one  trap  in  four  hours  on  the  night  of 
the  25th  of  October,  and  above  one  hundred  were 


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PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


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either  trapped  or  killed  in  the  course  of  three  months, 
and  yet  there  seemed  but  little  diminution  in  their 
numbers.  Captain  Lyon  says  he  found  them  not  bad 
eating,  the  flesn  much  resembling  that  of  kid.  A  pack 
of  thirteen  wolves  came  occasionally  to  have  a  look  at 
the  ships,  and  on  one  occasion  broke  into  a  snow-house 
alongside,  and  walked  oif  with  a  couple  of  Esquimaux 
dogs  confined  there.  Bears  now  and  then  also  made 
their  appearance. 

A  very  beautiful  ermine  walked  on  board  the  Hecla 
one  day,  and  was  caught  in  a  small  trap  placed  on  the 
deck,  certainly  the  first  of  these  animals  which  was 
ever  taken  alive  on  board  a  ship  400  yards  from  the 
land.  The  ravenous  propensities  of  even  some  of  the 
smallest  members  of  the  animal  kingdom  are  exempli- 
fied by  the  following  extract  :  — 

"  We  had  for  some  time  observed  that  in  the  fire- 
hole,  which  was  kept  open  in  the  ice  alongside,  a  count- 
less multitude  of  small  shrimps  were  constantly  rising 
near  the  surface,  and  we  soon  found  that  in  twenty-four 
hours  they  would  clean,  in  the  most  beautiful  manner, 
the  skeletons." 

After  attending  divine  service  on  Christmas  day,  the 
officers  and  crews  sat  down  to  the  luxury  of  joints  of 
English  roast  beef,  which  had  been  kept  untainted  by 
being  frozen,  and  the  outside  rubbed  with  salt.  Cran- 
berry pies  and  puddings,  of  every  shape  and  size,  with 
a  full  allowance  of  spirits,  followed,  and,  probably  the 
natural  attendance  of  headaches  succeeded,  for  the 
next  morning  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  send  all  the 
people  for  a  run  on  the  ice,  in  order  to  put  them  to 
rights  ;  but  thick  weather  coming  on,  it  became  neces- 
sary to  recall  them,  and,  postponing  the  dinner  hour, 
they  were  all  danced  sober  by  one  o'clock,  the  fiddler 
being,  fortunately,  quite  as  he  should  be.  During  this 
curious  ball,  a  witty  fellow  attended  as  an  old  cake 
woman,  with  lumps  of  frozen  snow  in  a  bucket ;  and 
such  was  the  demand  for  his  pies  on  this  occasion,  that 
he  was  obliged  to  replenish  pretty  frequently.  The 
year  had  now  drawn  to  a  close,  and  all  enjoyed  excel- 


lei 

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PARKY  8   SECOND  VOYAGE. 


117 


lent  health,  and  were  blessed  with  good  spirits,  and  zeal 
fur  the  renewal  of  their  arduous  exertions  in  the  sum- 


mer. 


No  signs  of  scurvy,  the  usual  plague  of  such  voy- 
ages, liad  occurred,  and  by  the  plans  of  Captain  Parry, 
as  carried  out  on  the  former  voyage,  a  sufficiencv  of 
mustard  and  cress  was  raised  between  decks  to  anbrd 
all  hands  a  salad  once,  and  sometimes  twice  a  week. 
The  cold  now  became  intense.  Wine  froze  in  the  bot- 
tles. Port  was  congealed  into  thin  pink  laminae,  which 
lay  loosely,  and  occupied  the  whole  length  of  the  bot- 
tle. White  wine,  on  the  contrary,  froze  into  a  solid 
and  perfectly  transparent  mass,  resembling  amber. 

On  the  1st  of  February  the  monotony  of  their  life 
was  varied  by  the  arrival  of  a  large  party  of  Esqui- 
maux, and  an  interchange  of  visits  thenceforward  took 
place  with  this  tribe,  w^ich,  singularly  enough,  were 
proverbial  for  their  honesty.  Ultimately,  however, 
they  began  to  display  some  thievish  propensities,  for 
on  one  evening  in  March  a  most  shocking  theft  was 
committed,  which  was  no  less  than  the  last  piece  of 
English  corned  beef  from  the  midshipmen's  mess. 
Had  it  been  an  181b.  carronade,  or  even  one  of  the  an- 
chors, the  thieves  would  have  been  welcome  to  it ;  but 
to  purloin  English  beef  in  such  a  country  was  unpar- 
donable. 

On  the  15th  of  March  Captain  Lyon,  Lieutenant 
Palmer,  and  a  party  of  men,  left  the  ship,  with  pro- 
visions, tents,  ifec,  in  a  large  sledge,  for  an  excursion 
of  three  or  four  days,  to  examine  the  land  in  the  neigh- 
borliood  of  the  ships. 

The  first  night's  encampment  was  anything  but  com- 
fortable. Their  tent  they  found  so  cold,  that  it  was 
determined  to  make  a  cavern  in  the  snow  to  sleep  in  ; 
and  diggirg  this  aftbrded  so  good  an  opportunity  of 
warming  themselves,  that  the  only  shovel  was  lent  from 
one  to  the  other  as  a  particular  favor.  After  digging 
it  of  sufficient  size  to  contain  them  all  in  a  sitting  pos- 
ture, by  means  of  the  smoke  of  a  fire  they  managed  to 
raise  the  temperature  to  20°,  and,  closiHg  the  entrance 


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118 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


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with  blocks  of  snow,  crept  into  their  blanket  bags  and 
tried  to  sleep,  with  the  pleasant  reflection  that  their 
root'  might  fall  in  and  bury  them  all,  and  that  their  one 
spade  was  the  only  means  of  liberation  after  a  night's 
drift  of  snow. 

They  woke  next  morning  to  encounter  a  heavy  gale 
and  drift,  and  found  their  sledge  so  embedded  in  the 
snow  that  they  could  not  get  at  it,  and  in  tlie  attempt 
their  faces  and  extremities  were  most  painfully  frost- 
bitten. The  thermometer  was  at  32°  below  zero  ;  they 
could  not,  moreover,  see  a  yard  of  the  road  ;  yet  to  re- 
main appeared  worse  than  to  go  forward  —  the  last 
plan  was,  therefore,  decided  on.  The  tent,  sledge,  and 
luggage  were  left  behind,  and  with  only  a  few  pounds 
of  bread,  a  little  rum,  and  a  spade,  the  party  again  set 
out ;  and  in  order  to  depict  their  suiierings,  1  must  take 
up  the  narrative  as  related  by  tlie  commander  himself : 

"Not  knowing  wliere  to  go,  we  wandered  among 
the  heavy  hummocks  of  ice,  and  suffering  from  cold, 
fatigue  and  anxiety,  were  soon  completely  bewildered. 
Several  of  our  party  now  began  \  o  exhibit  symptoms 
of  that  horrid  kind  of  insensibility  which  is  the  pre- 
lude to  sleep.  They  all  professed  extreme  willingness 
to  do  wha^  they  were  told  in  order  to  keep  in  exercise, 
but  none  obeyed  ;  on  the  contrary,  they  reeled  about 
like  drunken  men.  The  faces  of  several  were  severely 
frost-bitten,  and  some  had  for  a  considerable  time  lost 
sensation  in  their  fingers  and  toes  ;  yet  they  made  not 
the  slightest  exertion  to  rub  the  parts  affected,  and  even 
discontinued  their  general  custom  of  warming  each 
other  on  observing  a  discoloration  of  the  skin.  Mr. 
Palmer  employed  the  people  in  building  a  snow  wall, 
ostensibly  as  a  shelter  from  the  wind,  but  in  fact  to 
give  them  exercise,  when  standing  still  must  have 
proved  fatal  to  men  in  our  circumstances.  My  atten- 
tion was  exclusively  directed  to  Sergeant  Speckman, 
who,  having  been  repeatedly  warned  that  his  nose  was 
frozen,  had  paid  no  attention  to  it,  owing  to  the  state 
of  stupefaction  into  which  he  had  fallen.  The  frost- 
bite had  now  extended  over  one  sid<*  of  his  face,  which 


rAKKY  S    SECOND    VOYAGE. 


119 


to 


n. 


^«yas  frozen  as  hard  as  a  mask  ;  the  eyelids  were  stiff, 
and  one  corner  of  the  upper  lip  so  drawn  up  as  to 
expose  the  teeth  and  gums.  My  hands  being  still 
wiirm,  I  had  the  happiness  of  restoring  the  circulation, 
after  which  I  used  all  my  endeavors  to  keep  the  poor 
follow  in  motion  ;  but  he  complained  sadly  of  giddi- 
ness and  dimness  of  sight,  and  was  so  weak  as  to  be 
unable  to  walk  without  assistance.  His  case  was  so 
alarming,  that  I  expected  every  moment  he  would  lie 
down,  never  to  rise  again. 

"  Our  prospect  now  became  every  moment  more 
gloomy,  and  it  was  but  too  probable  that  four  of  our 
party  w^ould  be  unable  to  survive  another  hour.  Mr. 
Palmer,  however,  endeavored,  as  well  as  myself,  to 
cheer  the  people  up,  but  it  was  a  faint  attempt,  as  we 
had  not  a  single  hope  to  give  them.  Every  piece  of 
ice,  or  even  of  small  rock  or  stone,  was  now  supposed 
to  be  the  ships,  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  prevent- 
ing the  men  from  running  to  the  different  objects  which 
attracted  them,  and  consequently  losing  themselves  in 
the  drift.  In  this  state,  w^hile  Mr.  Palmer  was  running 
round  us  to  warm  himself,  he  suddenly  pitched  on  a 
new  beaten  track,  and  as  exercise  was  indispensable, 
we  determined  on  following  it,  wherever  it  might  lead 
us.  Having  taken  the  Sergeant  under  my  coat,  he  re- 
covered a  little,  and  we  moved  onward,  when  to  our 
infinite  joy  we  found  that  the  path  led  to  the  ships." 

As  the  result  of  this  exposure,  one  man  had  two  of 
his  fingers  so  badly  frost-bitten  as  to  lose  a  good  deal 
of  the  flesh  of  the  upper  ends,  and  for  many  days  it 
was  feared  that  he  would  be  obliged  to  have  them  am- 
putated. Quarter-master  Carr,  one  of  those  who  had 
been  the  most  hardy  while  in  the  air,  fainted  twice  on 
getting  below,  and  every  one  had  severe  frost-bites  in 
different  parts  of  the  body,  which  recovered  after  the 
usual  loss  of  skin  in  these  cases. 

One  of  the  Esquimaux  females,  by  name  Igloolik, 
who  plays  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  narrative,  was  a 
general  favorite,  being  possessed  of  a  large  fund  of 
useful  information,  having  a  good  voice  and  ear  for 


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120 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


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music,  being  an  excellent  seamstress,  and  having  snch 
a  good  idea  of  the  hydrography  and  bearings  of  the 
neighhoring  Koa-coasts,  as  to  draw  charts  whicli  guided 
Parry  mucli  in  his  future  operations,  for  he  found  her 
sketches  to  be  in  the  main  correct.  8he  connected  the 
jand  from  their  winter  quarters  to  the  northwest  sea, 
rounding  and  terminating  the  northern  extremity  of 
this  part  of  America,  by  a  large  island,  and  a  strait  of 
sufficient  magnitude  to  afford  a  safe  passage  for  the 
ships.  This  little  northwest  passage,  observes  Lyon, 
set  us  all  castle-building,  and  we  already  fancied  the 
worst  part  of  our  voyage  over  ;  or,  at  all  events,  that 
before  half  the  ensuing  summer  was  past,  we  should 
arrive  at  Akkoolee,  the  Esquimaux  settlement  on  the 
western  shore.  Half-way  between  that  coast  and  Re 
pulse  Bay,  Igloolik  drew  on  her  chart  a  lake  of  consid- 
erable size,  having  small  streams  running  from  it  to 
the  sea,  on  each  siue ;  and  the  correctness  of  this  infor- 
mation was  fully  proved  by  Rae  in  his  recent  expedi- 
tion in  1846. 

On  the  13th  of  April  their  Esquimaux  friends  took 
their  departure  for  other  quarters  ;  towards  the  end  of 
the  month  the  crews  completed  the  cutting  of  trenches 
round  the  vessels,  in  order  that  they  might  rise  to  their 
proper  bearings  previous  to  working  in  the  holds,  and 
the  ships  floated  like  corks  on  their  native  element, 
after  their  long  imprisonment  of  191  days.  As  the 
season  appeared  to  be  improving,  another  land  expedi- 
tion was  determined  on,  and  Captain  Lyon  and  Lieu- 
tenant Palmer,  attended  by  a  party  of  eight  men,  set 
off  on  the  8th  of  May,  taking  with  them  twenty  days' 
provisions.  Each  man  drew  on  a  sledge  126  lbs.,  and 
the  officers  95  lbs.  a-piece. 

"  Loaded  as  we  were,"  says  the  leader,  "  it  was  with 
the  greatest  difficulty  we  made  our  way  among  and 
over  the  hummocks,  ourselves  and  sledges  taking  some 
very  unpleasant  tumbles.  It  required  two  and  a  half 
hours  to  cross  the  ice,  although  the  distance  was  not 
two  miles,  and  we  then  landed  on  a  small  island,  where 
we  passed  the  night." 


PAKUYS   8K<JU^^)    VOYAGK. 


121 


Several  islands  and  shoals  in  the  strait  were  named 
LinTs  Isles.  At  noon  on  the  ilth,  they  canip(Hl  at  tlie 
head  of  a  line  bay,  to  which  the  name  of  Dhike  was 
£yiven.  In  spite  of  all  the  caro  wliich  had  been  taken 
by  usinnj  crape  shades,  and  other  coverings  for  the  eyes, 
live  of  the  party  became  severely  atiiicted  with  snow 
blindness.  Before  evening  two  of  the  sufferers  were 
quite  blinded  by  the  inilammation.  Their  faces,  eyes, 
and  even  heads,  being  much  swollen,  and  very  red. 
Bathing  woidd  have  alforded  relief,  but  the  sun  did  not 
produce  a  drop  of  water,  and  their  stock  of  fuel  being 
limited,  they  could  only  spare  enough  wood  to  thaw 
Buow  for  their  midday  draught. 

As  the  morning  of  the  12th  brought  no  change  in  the 
invalids,  another  day  was  lost.  Toward  evening,  ])y 
breaking  pieces  of  ice,  and  placing  them  in  the  full 
glare  of  the  sun,  sufficient  water  was  obtained,  both  for 
drinking  and  for  the  sick  to  bathe  their  faces,  which 
aiforded  them  amazing  relief,  and  on  the  morrow  they 
were  enabled  to  resume  their  journey.  At  noon  the 
sun  was  sufficiently  powerful  to  afford  the  travelers  a 
draught  of  water,  without  having  to  thaw  it,  as  had 
hitherto  been  the  case. 

For  nearly  three  days  after  this,  they  were  imprisoned 
in  their  low  tent  by  a  snow-storm,  but  on  the  morning 
of  the  18th,  they  were  enabled  to  sally  out  to  stretch 
their  legs,  and  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  sun.  After  exam- 
ining many  bays  and  indentations  of  the  coast,  the  party 
returned  to  the  ships  on  the  evening  of  the  21st.  A 
canal  was  now  cut  through  the  ice,  to  get  the  ships  to 
the  open  water,  in  length  2400  feet,  and  varying  in 
breadth  from  60  to  197  feet.  The  average  thickness  of 
the  ice  was  four  feet,  but  in  some  places  it  was  as  much 
as  twelve  feet.  This  truly  arduous  task  had  occupied  tlie 
crews  for  fifteen  days,  from  six  in  the  morning  to  eight 
in  the  evening ;  but  they  labored  at  it  with  the  greatest 
spirit  and  good  humor,  and  it  was  concluded  on  the  18th 
of  June,  when  the  officers  and  men  began  to  take  leave 
of  their  several  haunts  and  promenades,  purticniarly 
the  "  garden  "  of  each  ship,  which  had  become  +'ivorite 


•^l! 


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122 


riiOOKESS   OF    AliCTlC    DISCOVERY. 


lounges  during  their  nine  months'  detention.  A  few 
ili-liited  bunting  came  near  enough  to  bo  shot,  and  were 
instantly  roasted  for  a  farewell  supper,  and  bright  vis- 
ions of  active  exertions  on  the  water  on  the  morrow 
were  universally  entertained.  But  the  night  dispeiK;(l 
all  these  airy  castles,  for  with  the  morning's  dawn  they 
found  that  the  whole  body  of  ice  astern  of  <"he  ships 
had  broke  adrift,  lilled  up  the  hard-wrought  canal,  and 
imj)risoned  them  as  firm  as  ever. 

Death  now  for  the  first  time  visited  the  crews.  James 
Priiigle,  a  seaman  of  the  llecla,  fell  from  the  mast-head 
to  the  deck,  and  was  killed  on  the  18th  of  May.  Wm. 
JSouter,  quarter-master,  and  John  Reid,  Carpenter's 
mate,  l)elunging  to  the  Fury,  died  on  the  26th  and  2Tth, 
of  natural  causes.  Toward  the  end  of  June,  the  sea 
bt'gun  to  clear  rapidly  to  the  eastward,  and  the  bay  ice 
soon  gave  way  as  far  as  where  the  ships  were  lying,  and 
on  the  2d  of  July  they  put  to  sea  with  a  fresh  breeze, 
after  having  been  frozen  in  for  267  days. 

In  making  their  way  to  the  northward,  they  were  fre- 
quently in  much  danger.  On  the  3d,  the  ice  came 
down  on  the  liecla  with  such  force  as  to  carry  her  on 
board  the  Fury,  by  which  the  Hecla  broke  her  best  bower 
anchor,  and  cut  her  waist-boat  in  two.  On  the  4:th,  the 
pressure  of  the  ice  was  so  great  as  to  break  the  Hecla 
adrift  from  three  hawsers.  Four  or  five  men  were  each 
on  separate  pieces  of  ice,  parted  from  the  ships  in  the 
endeavor  to  run  out  a  hawser.  A  heavy  pressure  closing 
tne  loose  ice  unexpectedly  gave  them  a  road  on  board 
again,  or  they  must  have  been  carried  away  by  the 
stream  to  certain  destruction.  On  the  8th,  the  Hecla 
had  got  her  stream-cable  out,  in  addition  to  the  other 
hawsers,  and  made  fast  to  the  land  ice,  when  a  very 
heavy  and  extensive  floe  took  the  ship  on  her  broad 
^iide,  and  being  backed  by  another  large  body  of  ice, 
gradually  lifted  her  stem  as  if  by  the  action  ot  a  wedge. 

"  The  weight  every  moment  increasing,  obliged  us,"' 
says  Captain  Lyon,  "  to  veer  on  the  hawsers,  whose  fric- 
tion was  so  great  as  nearly  to  cut  through  the  bitt-heads, 
and  ultimately  to  set  them  on  fire,  so  that  it  became 


pauuy's  second  voyage. 


123 


:/ 


reqiUBite  for  people  to  attend  with  buckets  of  water. 
The  prefitiiiro  was  at  length  too  powerful  for  resistance, 
and  tlie  streain-cablo,  with  two  six  and  one  tive-inch 
hawsers,  all  gave  way  at  the  same  moment,  three  others 
soon  following  them.  The  sea  was  too  full  of  ice  to 
allow  the  ship  to  drive,  and  the  only  way  in  wliicli  she 
could  yield  to  the  enormous  weight  which  oppressed  her, 
v/as  by  leaning  over  on  the  land  ice,  while  ner  stem  at 
the  same  time  was  entirely  lifted  to  above  the  height  of 
five  feet  out  of  the  water.  The  lower  deck  beams  now 
complained  very  much,  and  the  whole  frame  of  the 
ship  imderwent  a  trial  which  would  have  proved  fatal 
to  any  less  strengthened  vessel.  At  the  aame  moment, 
the  rudder  was  unhung  with  a  sudden  jerk,  which  broke 
up  the  rudder-case,  and  struck  the  driver-boom  with 
great  force." 

From  this  perilous  position  she  was  released  almost 
by  a  miracle,  and  the  rudder  re-hung. 

The  ships  a.  last  reached  the  island  which  had  been  so 
accurately  described  to  them  by  the  Esquimau!,  lady  — 
Iglolik,  where  they  came  upon  an  encampment  of 
120  Esquimaux,  in  tents.  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon 
and  other  officers  made  frequent  exploring  excursions 
along  the  shores  of  the  Fury  and  Ilecla  strait,  and  in- 
land. On  the  26th  of  August  the  ships  entered  this 
strait,  which  was  found  blocked  up  with  flat  ice.  The 
season  had  also  now  assumed  so  wintry  an  aspect  that 
there  seemed  but  little  probability  of  getting  much  far- 
ther west :  knowing  of  no  harbor  to  protect  the  ships, 
unless  a  favorable  change  took  place,  they  had  the 
gloomy  prospect  before  them  of  wintering  in  or  near 
this  frozen  strait.  Boating  and  land  parties  were  dis- 
patched in  several  directions,  to  report  upon  the  differ- 
ent localities. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  Captain  Lyon  landed  on 
an  island  of  slate  formation,  about  six  miles  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  ships,  which  he  named  Amherst  Island.  The 
result  of  these  expeditions  proved  that  it  was  impracti- 
cable, either  by  boats  or  water  conveyance,  to  examine 
any  part  of  the  land  southwest  of  Iglolik,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  ice.      8    , 


I 


I  'I 'I 


Ij!' 

i 


lllli 


124 


PEOOEE88   OF  AKOTIO   DI8COVEBY. 


Mr.  Reid  and  a  boat-party  traveled  about  sixty  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Amherst  Island,  and  ascertained  the 
termination  of  the  strait.  On  a  consultation  with  the 
officers,  Captain  Parry  determined  to  seek  a  berth  near 
to  Iglolik,  m  which  to  secure  the  ships  for  the  winter. 
They  had  now  been  sixty-five  days  struggling  to  set 
forward,  but  had  only  in  that  time  reached  forty  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Iglolik.  The  vessels  made  the  beet 
of  their  way  to  the  natural  channel  between  this  island 
and  the  land,  but  were  for  some  time  drifted  with  the 
ice,  losing  several  anchors,  and  it  was  only  bv  hard 
work  in  cutting  channels  that  they  were  brought  into 
safer  quarters,  near  the  land.  Some  fine  ^eams  of  dogs 
were  here  purchased  from  the  Esquimaux,  which  were 
found  very  serviceable  in  making  excursions  on  sledges. 

Their  second  Christmas  day  in  this  region  had  now 
arrived,  and  Lyon  informs  us  — 

"  Captain  Parry  dined  with  me,  and  was  treated  with 
a  superb  display  of  mustard  and  cress,  with  about  fifty 
onions,  rivaling  a  fine  needle  in  sizo,  which  I  had  reared 
in  boxes  round  my  cabin  stove.  All  our  messes  in 
either  ship  were  supplied  with  an  extra  pound  of  real 
English  fresh  beef,  which  had  been  hanging  at  our 
quarter  for  eighteen  months.  "We  could  not  afford  to 
leave  it  for  a  farther  trial  of  keeping,  but  I  have  no  doubt 
that  double  the  period  would  not  have  quite  spoika  its 
flavor." 

This  winter  proved  much  more  severe  than  the  for 
mer.  Additional  clothing  was  found  necessary.  The 
stove  funnels  collected  a  quantity  of  ice  within  them, 
notwithstanding  fires  were  kept  up  night  and  day,  so 
that  it  was  frequently  requisite  to  take  them  down  in 
order  to  break  and  melt  the  ice  out  of  them. 

Nothing  was  seen  of  the  sun  for  forty-two  days. 

On  the  15th  of  April,  Mr.  A.  Elder,  Greenland  mate 
of  the  Hecla,  died  of  dropsy:  he  had  been  leading  man 
with  Parry  on  Ross's  voyage,  and  for  his  good  conduct 
Vas  made  mate  of  the  Griper,  on  the  last  expedition. 

On  the  6th  of  September,  1823,  Mr.  George  Fife,  the 
pilot,  also  died  of  scurvy. 


PARRY'S   SECOND    VOYAGE. 


125 


After  taking  a  review  of  their  pro^dsions,  and  the 
probability  of  having  to  pass  a  third  winter  here,  Capt. 
rarry  determined  to  send  the  Hecla  home,  taking  from 
her  all  the  provision  that  could  be  spared.  Little  or 
no  hopes  covdd  be  entertained  of  any  passage  being 
found  to  the  westward,  otherwise  than  oy  the  strait  now 
60  firmly  closed  with  ice ;  but  Parry  trusted  that  some 
interesting  additions  might  be  made  to  the  geography 
of  these  dreary  regions,  by  attempting  a  passage  to  tlio 
northward  or  eastward,  in  hopes  of  finding  an  outlet  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  or  Prince  Kegent's  Inlet. 

On  the  2l8t  of  April,  1823,  they  began  transshipping 
the  provisions ;  the  teams  of  dogs  being  found  most 
useful  for  this  purpose.  Even  two  anchors  of  22  cwt. 
each,  were  drawn  by  these  noble  animals  at  a  quick 
trot. 

Upon  admitting  daylight  at  the  stern  windows  of  the 
Hecla,  on  thje  22d,  the  gloomy,  sooty  cabin  showed  to 
no  great  advantage  ;  no  less  than  ten  buckets  of  ice  were 
taken  from  the  sashes  and  out  of  the  stern  lockers,  from 
which  latter  some  spare  flannels  and  instruments  were 
only  liberated  by  chopping. 

On  the  7th  of  June,  Captain  Lyon,  with  a  party  of 
men,  set  off  across  the  Melville  Peninsula,  to  endeavor 
to  get  a  sight  of  the  western  sea,  of  which  they  had  re- 
ceived descriptive  accounts  from  the  natives,  but  ow- 
ing to  the  difliculties  of  traveling,  and  the  ranges  of 
mountains  they  met  with,  they  returned  unsuccessful, 
after  being  out  twenty  days.  Another  inland  trip  of  a 
fortnight  followed. 

On  the  1st  of  August,  the  Hecla  was  reported  ready 
for  sea.  Some  symptoms  of  scurvy  having  again  made 
their  appearance  in  the  ships,  and  the  surgeons  report- 
ing that  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  continue  longer, 
Captain  Parry  reluctantly  determined  to  proceed  home 
with  both  ships.  After  being  319  days  in  their  winter 
quarters,  the  ships  got  away  on  the  9th  of  August. 

A  conspicuous  landmark,  with  dispatches,  was  set 
up  on  the  main-land,  for  the  information  of  Franklin, 
should  he  reach  this  cuiarter. 


■t    iW- 


C 


'4-n 


i  ^li;;' 


J       ^    .!■  '   i   ; 


.       i 


126 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


Bi    :    1' 


On  reaching  "Winter  Island^  and  visiting  their  las 
year's  garden,  radishes,  mustard  and  cress,  and  onions 
were  brought  off,  which  had  survived  the  winter  and 
were  still  alive,  seventeen  months  from  the  time  they 
were  planted,  a  very  remarkable  proof  of  their  having 
been  preserved  by  the  warm  covering  of  snow. 

The  ships,  during  the  whole  of  this  passage,  were 
driven  by  the  current  more  than  three  degrees,  entirely 
at  the  mercy  of  the  ice,  being  carried  into  every  bight, 
and  swept  over  each  point,  without  the  power  of  help- 
ing themselves. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  they  were  driven  up  Lyon 
Inlet,  where  they  were  confined  high  up  till  the  6th, 
v/hen  a  breeze  sprung  up,  which  took  them  down  to 
within  three  miles  of  Winter  Island  ;  still  it  was  not 
until  the  12th,  that  they  got  thoroughly  clear  of  the  in- 
draught. The  danger  and  suspense  6t  these  twelve 
days  were  horrible,  and  Lyon  justly  observes,  that  he 
would  prefer  being  frozen  up  during  another  eleven 
months'  winter,  to  again  passing  so  anxious  a  period 
of  time. 

"  Ten  of  the  twelve  nights  were  passed  on  deck,  in 
expectation,  each  tide,  of  some  decided  change  in  our 
affairs,  either  by  being  left  on  the  rocks,  or  grounding 
in  such  shoal  water,  that  the  whole  body  of  the  ice  must 
have  slid  over  us.  But,  as  that  good  old  seaman  Baffin 
expresses  himself,  '  God,  who  is  greater  than  either  ice 
or  tide,  always  delivered  us  I ' " 

For  thirty-five  days  the  ships  had  been  beset,  and  in 
that  period  had  driven  with  the  ice  above  300  miles, 
without  any  exertion  on  their  part,  and  also  without  a 
possibility  of  extricating  themselves.  On  the  23d  of 
September,  they  once  more  got  into  the  swell  of  the 
Atlantic,  and  on  the  10th  of  October,  arrived  at  Ler- 
wick, in  Shetland. 

Cl/lvering's  Yotage  to  Spitzbergen  and  Green- 
land, 1823. 

In  1823,  Capt.  SalMne,  R.  A.,  who  had  been  for  some 
Hmo  fiicr.'ifr^nl  in   mufjnetic  observations,  and  also  in 


1     ! 


OLAVERTNGS  VOYAGE. 


127 


N- 


experiments  to  determine  the  configuration  of  the  earth, 
by  means  of  pendulum  vibrations  in  difterent  latitudes, 
having  perfected  his  observations  at  different  points, 
from  me  Equator  to  the  Arctic  Circle,  suggested  to  the 
Koyal  Society,  through  Sir  Humphry  Davy,  the  impor- 
tance of  extending  similar  experiments  into  higher  lat- 
itudes toward  the  Pole.  Accordingly,  the  government 
placed  at  his  disposal  H.  M.  S.  Griper,  120  tons,  Com- 
mander Clavering,  which  was  to  convey  him  to  Spitz- 
bergen,  and  thence  to  the  east  coast  of  Greenland. 

The  Griper  sailed  from  the  Nore,  on  the  11th  of  May, 
and  proceeded  to  Hammerfest,  or  Whale  Island,  near 
the  North  Cape,  in  Norway,  which  she  reached  on  the 
4:th  of  June,  and  Capt.  Sabine  having  finished  his  shore 
observations  by  the  23d,  the  vessel  set  sail  for  Spitzber- 
gen.  She  fell  in  with  ice  off  Cherry  Island,  in  lat.  76° 
6',  on  the  27th,  and  on  the  30th  disembarked  the  tents 
and  ill  -truinents  on  one  of  the  small  islands  round 
Hakluyt's  Headland,  near  the  eightieth  parallel.  Capt. 
Clavering,  mean  Awhile,  sailed  in  the  Griper  due  north, 
and  reached  the  latitude  of  80°  20',  where  being  stop- 
ped by  close  packed  ice,  he  was  obliged  to  return. 

On  the  24tn  of  July,  they  again  put  to  sea,  directing 
their  course  for  the  highest  known  point  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  Greenland.  They  met  with  many  fields  of  ice, 
and  made  the  land,  which  had  a  most  miserable,  deso- 
late api)8arance,  at  a  point  which  was  named  Cape  Bor- 
lase  Warren.  Two  islands  were  discovered,  and  as 
Capt.  Salnne  here  landed  and  carried  on  his  observa- 
tions, they  were  called  Pendulum  Islands.  From  an 
island  situate  in  lat.  75°  12',  to  which  he  gave  the  name 
of  Shannon  Island,  Clavering  saw  high  land,  stretch- 
ing due  north  as  far  as  lat.  76°. 

On  the  16th  of  August,  Clavering  landed  with  a 
party  of  three  officers,  and  sixteen  men  on  the  main- 
land, to  examine  the  shores.  The  temperature  did  not 
sink  below  23°,  and  they  slept  for  nearly  a  fortnight 
they  were  on  shore  with  only  a  boat-cloak  and  l)lanKet 
for  a  covering,  without  feeling  any  inconvenience  from 
the  cold.    A  tribe  of  twelve  Esquimaux  was  met  with 


I '  r 


Ml  I 


f:  '  •> 


I. 


11 


iiiii':; 


'Hi' 


( ■I 


128 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


here.  They  reached  in  their  journey  a  magniiiceiil 
inlet,  about  fifty  miles  in  circumterence,  which  was  sup- 
posed to  be  the  same  which  Gale  Hamkes  discovered 
in  1654,  and  which  bears  his  name.  The  mountains 
round  its  sides  were  4000  to  5000  feet  high.  On  the 
29th  of  August,  they  returned  on  board,  and  having 
embarked  the  tents  and  instruments,  the  ship  again  set 
sail  on  the  31st,  keeping  the  coast  in  view  to  Cape 
Parry,  lat  72  i°.  The  cliiFs  were  obse  ved  to  be  sev- 
eral thousand  feet  high.  On  the  13th  of  September, 
as  the  ice  in  shore  began  to  get  very  troublesome,  the 
ship  stood  out  to  sea,  and  after  encountering  a  very 
heavy  gale,  which  drove  them  with  great  fury  to  the 
southward,  and  it  not  being  thought  prudent  to  make 
for  Ireland,  a  station  in  about  the  same  latitude  on  the 
Norway  coast  was  chosen  instead  by  Capt.  Sabine. 
They  made  the  land  about  the  latitude  of  Christian- 
sound.  On  the  1st  of  October,  the  Griper  struck  hard 
on  a  sunken  rock,  but  got  off'  undamaged. 

On  the  6th,  they  anchored  in  Drontheim  Fiord, 
where  they  were  received  with  much  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality, and  after  the  necessary  observations  had  been 
completed  the  ship  proceeded  homeward,  and  reached 
Deptford  on  the  19th  of  December,  1823. 

Lyon's  Yoyage  in  the  Griper. 

In  1824,  three  expeditions  were  ordered  out,  to  carry 
on  simultaneous  operations  in  Arctic  discovery.  To 
Capt.  Lyon  was  committed  the  task  of  examining  and 
completing  the  survey  of  the  Melville  Peninsula,  the 
adjoining  straits,  and  the  shores  of  Arctic  America,  if 
possible  as  far  as  Franklin's  turning  point.  Capt.  Lyon 
was  therefore  gazetted  to  the  Griper  gun-brig,  which 
had  taken  out  Capt.  Sabine  to  Spitzbergen,  in  the  pre- 
vious year.  The  following  oflScers  and  crew  were  also 
appointed  to  her  : — 

Griper, 

Captain  —  G.  F.  Lyon. 

Lieutenants — P.  Manico  and  F.  Harding. 


lyon's  voyage.  12^ 

Aesistant-Surveyor  —  E.  N.  Kendal. 
Purser — J.  Evans. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  W.  Leyson. 
Midshipman  —  J.  Tom. 
34  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 
Total  complement,  41. 

It  was  not  till  the  20th  of  June,  that  the  Griper  got 
away  from  England,  being  a  full  month  later  than  the 
usual  period  of  departure,  and  the  vessel  was  at  the 
best  but  an  old  tub  in  her  sailing  propensities.  A  small 
tender,  called  the  Snap,  was  ordered  to  accompany  her 
with  stores,  as  far  as  the  ice,  and  having  been  relieved 
of  her  supplies,  she  was  sent  home  on  reaching  Hud- 
son's Straits. 

The  Griper  made  but  slow  progress  in  her  deeply  la- 
den state,  her  crowded  decks  being  continually  swept 
by  heavy  seas,  and  it  was  not  until  the  end  of  August, 
that  she  rounded  the  soutbern  head  of  Southampton 
Island,  and  stood  up  toward  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Wei 
come.  On  reaching  the  entrance  of  this  channel  they 
encountered  a  terrific  gale,  which  for  a  long  time 
threatened  the  destruction  of  both  ship  and  crew. 
Drifting  with  this,  they  brought  up  the  ship  with  four 
anchors,  in  a  bay  with  five  fathoms  and  a  half  water, 
in  the  momentary  expectation  that  with  the  ebb  tide 
the  ship  would  take  the  ground,  as  the  sea  broke  fear- 
fully on  a  low  sandy  beach  just  astern,  and  had  the  an- 
choi*s  parted,  nothing  could  have  saved  the  vessel. 
Neither  commander  nor  crew  had  been  in  bed  for  three 
nights,  and  although  little  hope  was  entertained  of  sur- 
viving the  gale,  and  no  boat  could  live  in  such  a  sea, 
the  officers  and  crew  performed  their  several  duties 
with  their  accustomed  coolness.  Each  man  was  or- 
dered to  put  on  his  warmest  clothing,  and  to  take  charge 
of  some  useful  instrument.  The  scene  is  best  described 
in  tlie  words  of  the  gallant  commander  : — 

"Each,  therefore,  brought  his  bag  on  deck,  and 
dressed  himself;  and  in  the  fine  athletic  forms  which 
Btood  exposed  before  me,  I  did  not  see  one  muscle  qui- 


u  '■ 


m 


I,  I 


.  i  i , 


hi 


130 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCTIC   DISCOVSaiY. 


ill 


■!-;ll| 


III 


ver,  nor  the  slightest  sign  of  alarm.  Prayers  were  read, 
and  they  then  all  sat  down  in  groups,  sheltered  from  the 
wash  of  the  sea  by  whatever  they  could  find,  and  some 
endeavored  to  obtain  a  little  sleep.  Never,  perhaps 
was  witnessed  a  finer  scene  than  on  the  deck  of  m^ 
little  ship,  when  all  hope  of  life  had  left  us.  Noble  as 
the  character  of  the  British  sailor  is  always  allowed  to 
be  in  cases  of  danger,  yet  I  did  not  believe  it  to  be  pos- 
sible that  among  forty-one  persons  not  one  repining 
word  should  have  been  uttered.  Each  was  at  peace 
with  his  neighbor  and  all  the  world  ;  and  I  am  nrmly 
persuaded  that  the  resignation  v/hich  was  then  shown 
to  the  will  of  the  Almighty,  was  the  means  of  obtain- 
ing His  mercy.  God  was  merciful  to  us,  and  the  tide, 
almost  miraculously,  fell  no  lower."  The  appropriate 
name  of  the  Bay  of  God's  Mercy  has  been  given  to 
this  spot  on  the  charts  by  Captain  Lyon. 

Proceeding  onward  up  the  Welcome,  they  encoun- 
tered, about  a  fortnight  later,  another  fearful  storm. 
On  the  12th  of  September,  when  off  the  entrance  of 
"Wager  Inlet,  it  blew  so  hard  for  two  days,  that  on  the 
13th  the  ship  was  driven  from  her  anchors,  and  carried 
away  by  the  fury  of  the  gale,  with  every  prospect  of 
being  momentarily  dashed  to  pieces  against  any  hid- 
den rock ;  but  the  same  good  Providence  which  had 
so  recently  befriended  them,  again  stood  their  protec- 
tor. On  consulting  with  his  officers,  it  was  unani- 
mously resolved,  that  in  the  crippled  state  of  the  ship, 
without  any  anchor,  and  with  her  compasses  worse 
than  useless,  it  would  be  madness  to  continue  the  voy- 
age, and  the  ship's  course  was  therefore  shaped  for 
England. 

Imay  observe,  that  the  old  Griper  is  now  laid  up  as 
a  hulk  in  Chichester  Harbor,  furnishing  a  residence 
and  depot  for  the  coast  guard  station. 

Parry's  Third  Yoyage. 

In  the  spring  of  1824  the  Admiralty  determined  to 
give  Capt.  Parry  another  opportunity  of  carrying  ovt 


"  i :; ! 


l:| 


i      I!l 


parry's  third  voyage. 


131 


the  great  problem  which  had  so  long  been  sought  af- 
ter, of  a  northwest  passage  to  the  Paciiic,  and  so  gen- 
erally esteemed  was  this  gallant  commander  that  he 
had  but  to  hoist  his  pennant,  when  fearless  of  all  dan- 
ger, and  in  a  noble  spirit  of  emulation,  his  former  as- 
sociates rallied  around  him. 

The  same  two  ships  were  employed  as  before,  bui 
Parry  now  selected  the  Hecla  for  his  pennant.  The 
staff  of  officers  and  men  was  as  follows  :  — 

Hecla, 

Captain  —  W.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenants  —  J.  L.  Wynn,  Joseph  Sherer,  and 

Henry  Foster. 
Surgeon  —  Samuel  Neill,  M.  D. 
Purser — W.  H.  Hooper. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  W.  Rowland. 
Midshipmen  —  J.   Brunton,  F.  R.  M.  Crozier,  C. 

Richards,  and  H.  N.  Head. 
Greenland    Pilots  —  J.  Allison,  master;    and  G. 

Champion,  mate. 
49  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  and  Marines. 
Total  complement,  62. 

Fury, 

Commander  —  H.  P.  Hoppner. 

Lieutenants  —  H.  T.  Austin  and  J.  0.  Boss. 

Surgeon  — A.  M'Laren. 

Purser — J.  Halse. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  T.  Bell. 

Midshipmen  —  B.  Westropp,  C.  C.  Waller,  and  E. 
Bird. 

Clerk  —  "W.  Mogg. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  G.  Crawford,  master;  T.  Don- 
aldson, mate. 

48  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  and  Marines. 
Total  complement,  60. 

The  William  Harris,  transport,  was  commissioned 
U)  accompany  the  ships  to  the  ice  with  provisions. 

F 


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'I 


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i'l:; 


I 


132 


PROGRESS   OF   AROTIO   DISCOVERY. 


Among  the  promotions  made,  it  will  be  seen,  were 
Lieut.  Hoppner  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  and  second 
in  command  of  the  expedition.  Messrs.  J.  Sherer, 
and  J.  C.  Ross  to  be  Lieutenants,  and  J.  Halse  to  be 
Purser.  The  attempt  on  this  occasion  was  to  be  made 
by  Lancaster  Sound  through  Barrow's  Strait  to  Prince 
Regent  Inlet.  The  ships  sailed  on  the  19th  of  May, 
1824,  and  a  month  afterward  fell  in  with  the  body  of 
the  ice  in  lat.  601°.  After  transhipping  the  stores  to 
the  two  vessels,  and  sending  home  the  transport,  about 
the  middle  of  July  they  were  close  beset  with  the  ice 
in  Baffin's  Bay,  and  "from  this  time  (says  Parry)  the 
obstructions  from  the  quantity,  magnitude,  and  close- 
ness of  the  ice,  which  were  such  as  to  keep  our  people 
almost  constantly  employed  in  heaving,  warping,  or 
sawing  through  it ;  and  yet  with  so  little  success  that, 
at  the  close  of  July,  we  had  only  penetrated  seventy 
miles  to  the  westward."  After  encountering  a  severe 
gale  on  the  1st  of  August,  by  which  masses  of  overlay- 
ing ice  were  driven  one  upon  the  other,  the  Hecla  was 
laid  on  her  broadside  by  a  strain,  which  Parry  says 
must  inevitably  have  crushed  a  vessel  of  ordinary 
strength ;  they  got  clear  of  the  chief  obstructions  by 
the  first  week  in  September.  During  the  whole  of 
August  they  had  not  one  day  sufficiently  free  from 
rain,  snow,  or  sleet,  to  be  able  to  air  the  bedding  of 
the  ship's  company. 

They  entered  Lancaster  Sound  on  the  10th  of  Sep- 
tember, and  with  the  exception  of  a  solitary  berg  or 
two  found  it  clear  of  ice.  A  few  days  after,  however, 
they  fell  in  with  the  young  ice,  which  increasing  daily 
in  thickness,  the  ships  became  beset,  and  by  the  cur- 
rent which  set  to  the  east  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an 
hour,  they  were  soon  drifted  back  to  the  eastward  of 
Admiralty .  Inlet,  and  on  the  23d  they  found  them- 
selves again  off  Wollaston  Island,  at  the  entrance  of 
Navy  Board  Inlet.  By  perseverance,  howe  sr,  and  the 
aid  of  a  strong  easterly  breeze,  they  once  more  man- 
aged to  recover  their  lost  ground,  and  on  the  27tb 
reached  the  entrance  of  Port  Bowen  on  the  eastern 


IP 


PARKY  8   TlIIJiD    STOYAOE. 


133 


shore  of  Prince  Regent  Inlet,  and  here  Parry  reBolved 
upon  wintering;  this  making  the  fourth  winter  this 
enterprising  commander  had  passed  in  these  inhospi- 
table seas. 

The  usual  laborious  process  of  cutting  canals  had  to 
be  resorted  to,  in  order  to  get  the  ships  nea  ■  to  the 
shore  in  secure  and  sheltered  situations.  Parry  thus 
describes  the  dreary  monotonous  character  of  an  arctic 
winter :  — 

"It  is  hard  to  conceive  any  one  thing  more  like 
another  than  two  winters  passed  in  the  higher  latitudes 
of  the  polar  regions,  except  when  variety  happens  to 
be  afforded  by  intercourse  with  some  other  branch  of 
the  whole  family  of  man.  "Winter  after  winter,  nattire 
here  assumes  an  aspect  so  much  alike,  that  cursory  ob- 
servation can  scarcely  detect  a  single  feature  of  variety. 
The  winter  of  more  temperate  climates,  and  even  in 
some  of  no  slight  severity,  is  occasionally  diversified 
by  a  thaw,  which  at  once  gives  variety  and  compara- 
tive cheerfulness  to  the  prospect.  But  here,  when  once 
the  earth  is  covered,  all  is  dreary  monotonous  white- 
ness, not  merely  for  days  or  weeks,  but  for  more  than 
half  a  year  together.  W  hichever  way  the  eye  is  turn- 
ed, it  meets  a  picture  calculated  to  impress  upon  the 
mind  an  idea  of  inanimate  stillness,  of  that  motionless 
torpor  with  which  our  feelings  have  nothing  congenial ; 
of  any  thing,  in  short,  but  life.  In  the  very  silence 
there  is  a  deadness  with  which  a  human  spectator  ap- 
pears out  of  keeping.  The  presence  of  man  seems  an 
intrusion  on  the  dreary  solitude  of  this  wintry  desert, 
which  even  its  native  animals  have  for  awhile  forsaken." 

During  this  year  Parry  tells  us  the  thermometer  re- 
mained below  zero  131  days,  and  did  not  rise  above 
that  point  till  the  11th  of  April.  The  sun,  which  had 
been  absent  from  their  view  121  days,  again  blessed 
the  crews  with  his  rays  on  the  22d  of  February.  Du- 
ring this  long  imprisonment,  schools,  scientific  observa- 
tions, walking  parties,  &c.,  were  resorted  to,  but  "  our 
former  amusements,"  says  Parry,  "  being  almost  worn 
threadbare,  it  required  some  ingenuity  to  devise  any 


A 


in  ' 


■\i:   '\-       .    1 


■ 


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■ 


"   t'f. 


'■' !  ; 


i   V 


134 


PKOORE88   OF  ARCTIC  DI8C0VKRY. 


li 


r  I 


■::tli!ili 


plan  that  should  possess  the  charm  of  novelty  to  re- 
commend it."  A  happy  idea  was,  liowever,  hit  upon  b^^ 
Commander  Hoppner,  at  whose  8ug<i^estion  a  monthly 
bal  masque  was  held,  to  the  great  diversion  of  both 
officers  and  men,  to  the  number  of  12U.  The  populai 
commander  entered  gayly.  into  their  recreations,  and 
thus  speaks  of  these  polar  masquerades  :  — 

"  It  is  impossible  that  any  idea  could  have  proved 
more  happy,  or  more  exactly  suited  to  our  situation 
Admirably  dressed  characters  of  various  descriptions 
readilv  took  their  parts,  and  many  of  these  were  sup- 
ported with  a  degree  of  spirit  and  genuine  good  humor 
which  would  not  have  disgraced  a  more  refined  assem- 
bly ;  while  the  latter  might  not  have  been  disgraced 
by  copying  the  good  order,  decorum,  and  inoftensive 
cheerfulness  which  our  humble  masquerades  presented. 
It  does  especial  credit  to  the  dispositions  and  good 
sense  of  our  men,  that  though  all  the  officers  entered 
fully  into  the  spirit  of  these  amusements,  which  took 
place  once  a  month  alternately  on  board  of  each  ship, 
no  instance  occurred  of  any  thing  that  could  interfere 
with  the  regular  discipline,  or  at  all  weaken  the  respect 
of  the  men  toward  their  superiors.  Ours  were  mas 
querades  without  licentiousness  —  carnivals  without 
excess.'^ 

Exploring  parties  '^ere  sent  out  in  several  directions. 
Commander  Hoppner  and  his  party  went  inland,  and 
after  a  fortnight's  fatiguing  journey  over  a  mountain- 
ous, barren,  and  desolate  country,  where  precipitous  ra- 
vines 500  feet  deep  obstructed  their  passage,  traveled 
a  degree  and  three-quarters  —  to  the  latitude  of  73°  19', 
but  saw  no  appearance  of  sea  from  thence. 

Lieutenant  Sherer,  with  four  men,  proceeded  to  the 
southward,  and  made  a  careful  survey  of  the  coast  as 
far  as  72i^,  but  had  not  provisions  sufficient  to  go 
round  Cape  Kater,  the  southernmost  point  observed  in 
their  former  voyage. 

Lieutenant  J.  C.  Koss,  with  a  similar  party,  traveled 
to  the  northward,  along  the  coast  of  the  inlet,  and  from 
the  hills  about  Cape  York,  observed  that  the  sea  was 


PARRY  8  THIRD   VOYAGE. 


136 


perfectly  open  and  free  from  ice  at  the  distance  of 
twenty-two  miles  from  the  ships. 

After  an  imprisonment  of  about  ten  months,  by  great 
exertions  the  ships  were  got  clear  from  the  ice,  and  on 
the  20th  of  July,  1825,  upon  the  separation  of  the  floe 
across  the  harbor,  towed  out  to  sea.  Parry  then  made 
for  the  western  shore  of  the  Inlet,  being  desirous  of  ex- 
amining the  coast  of  North  Somerset  for  any  channel 
that  might  occur,  a  probability  which  later  discoveries 
in  that  quarter  have  proved  to  be  without  foundation. 
On  the  28th,  when  well  in  with  the  western  shore,  the 
Hecla,  in  spite  of  every  exertion,  was  beset  by  floating 
ice,  and  alter  breaking  two  large  ice  anchors  in  en- 
deavoring to  heave  in  snore,  was  obliged  to  give  up  the 
efibrt  and  drift  with  the  ice  until  the  30th.  On  the 
following  day,  a  heavy  gale  came  on,  in  which  the 
Hecla  carried  away  three  hawsers,  while  the  Fury  was 
driven  on  shore,  but  was  hove  off  at  high  water.  Both 
ships  were  now  drifted  by  the  body  of  the  ice  down  the 
Inlet,  and  took  the  ground,  the  Fury  being  so  nipped 
and  strained  that  she  leaked  a  great  deal,  and  four 
pumps  kept  constantly  at  work  did  not  keep  her  clear 
of  water.  They  were  floated  off  at  high  water,  but, 
late  on  the  2nd  of  August,  the  huge  masses  of  ice  once 
more  forced  the  Fury  on  shore,  and  the  Hecla  narrowly 
escaped.  On  examining  her  and  getting  her  off,  it 
was  found  that  she  must  be  hove  down  and  repaired  ; 
a  basin  was  therefore  formed  for  her  reception  and 
completed  by  the  16th,  a  mile  further  to  the  southward, 
within  three  icebergs  grounded,  where  there  were  three 
or  four  fathoms  of  water.  Into  this  basin  she  w^as 
taken  on  the  18th,  and  her  stores  and  provisions  being 
removed,  she  was  hove  down,  but  a  gale  of  wind  com- 
ing on  and  destroying  the  masses  of  ice  which  shel- 
tered her,  it  oecame  necessary  to  re-embark  the  stores, 
&c.,  and  once  more  put  to  sea ;  but  the  unfortunate 
vessel  had  hardly  got  out  of  her  harbor  before,  on  the 
21st,  she  was  again  driven  on  shore.  After  a  careful 
survey  and  examination,  it  was  found  necessary  to 
abandon  her  :  Parry's  opinion  being  thus  expressed  — 


5»' 

— ! 
V\ 

C: 

f," 


\\\ 


ii  \> 


136 


PROGRESS   OF   AROTIO   DISCOVERY. 


l!ill 


iiiiiill 


^1     i  I 


11)11 


"(ii 


"  Every  endeavor  of  ours  to  get  her  off,  or  if  got  off,  to 
float  her  to  any  known  place  of  safety,  would  be  at 
once  utterly  hopeless  in  itself,  and  productive  of  ex- 
treme risk  to  our  remaining  ship." 

The  loss  of  this  ship,  and  the  crowded  state  of  the 
remaining  vessel,  made  it  •impossible  to  think  of  con- 
tinuing the  voyage  for  the  purposes  of  discovery. 

"  The  incessant  labor,  the  constant  state  of  anxiety, 
and  the  frequent  and  imminent  danger  into  which  the 
surviving  fe4iip  was  thrown,  in  the  attempts  to  save  her 
comrade,  which  were  continued  for  twenty-five  days, 
destroyed  every  reasonable  expectation  hitherto  cher- 
ished of  the  ultimate  accomplishment  of  this  object." 

Takinff  advantage  of  a  northerly  wind,  on  the  27th 
the  Hecla  stretched  across  the  lilet  for  the  eastern 
coast,  meeting  with  little  obstruction  from  the  ice,  and 
anchored  in  Weill's  Harbor,  a  short  distance  to  the 
southward  of  their  winter  quarters.  Port  Bowen,  where 
the  ship  was  got  ready  for  crossing  the  Atlantic. 

The  Hecla  put  to  sea  on  the  Slst  of  August,  and  en- 
tering Barrow's  Strait  on  the  1st  of  September,  found 
it  perfectly  clear  of  ice.  In  Lancaster  Sound,  a  very 
large  number  of  bergs  were  seen  ;  but  they  found  an 
open  sea  in  Bafiin's  Bay,  till,  on  the  7th  of  September, 
when  in  latitude  75°  30',  they  came  to  the  margin  of 
♦"he  ice,  and  soon  entered  a  clear  channel  on  its  eastern 
side.  From  thirty  to  fortjr  large  icebergs,  not  less  than 
200  feet  in  height,  were  sighted. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  Captain  Parry  landed  at 
Peterhead,  and  the  Hecla  arrived  at  Sheemess  ok  «ae 
20th.  But  one  man  died  during  this  voyage — John 
Page,  a  seaman  of  the  Fury  —  who  died  of  scurvy,  in 
Weill's  Harbor,  on  the  29th  of  August. 

This  voyage  cannot  but  be  considered  the  most  unsuc- 
cessful of  the  three  made  by  Parry,  whether  as  regards 
the  information  gleaned  on  the  subject  of  a  northwest 
passage,  or  the  extension  of  our  store  of  geographical 
or  scientific  knowledge.  The  shores  of  this  inlet  were 
more  naked,  barren,  and  desolate  than  even  Melville 
Island.    With  the  exception  of  some  hundreds  of  white 


FRANKLIN  8   BKCONU    EXI'tDITION. 


137 


whales,  seen  sporting  about  the  southernmost  part  of 
the  Inlet  that  was  visited)  few  other  species  of  animalB 
were  seen. 

"  We  have  scarceljr,"  says  Parry, "  ever  visited  a  coast 
on  which  so  little  ot  animal  life  occurs.  For  days  to- 
'v-pether  only  one  or  two  seals,  a  single  sea-horRO,  and 
now  and  then  a  flock  of  ducks  were  seen." 

He  still  clings  to  the  accomplishment  of  the  great 
object  of  a  nortnwest  passage.  At  page  184  of  his  offi- 
cial narrative,  he  says: — 

"  I  feel  confident  that  the  undertaking,  if  it  be  deemed 
advisable  at  any  future  time  to  pursue  it,  will  one  day 
or  other  be  accomplished  ;  for  —  setting  aside  the  acci- 
dents to  which,  from  their  very  nature,  such  attempts 
must  be  liable,  as  well  as  other  unfavorable  circum- 
stances which  human  foresight  can  never  guard  against, 
or  human  power  control  —  I  cannot  but  believe  it  to 
be  an  enterprise  well  within  the  reasonable  limits  of 
practicability.  It  may  be  tried  often  and  fail,  for  seve- 
ral favorable  and  fortunate  circumstances  must  be  com- 
bined for  its  accomplishment ;  but  I  believe,  neverthe- 
less, that  it  will  ultimately  be  accomplished." 

"  I  am  much  mistaken,  indeed,"  he  adds,  "  if  the 
northwest  passage  ever  becomes  the  business  of  a  single 
summer ;  nay,  I  believe  that  nothing  but  a  concurrence 
of  very  favorable  circumstances  is  likely  ever  to  make 
a  single  winter  in  the  ice  sufficient  for  its  accomplish- 
ment. But  there  is  no  argument  against  the  ;po88iDility 
of  final  success ;  for  we  know  that  a  winter  in  the  ice 
may  be  passed  not  only  in  safety,  but  in  health  and 
comfort." 

Not  one  winter  alone,  but  two  and  three  have  been 
passed  with  health  and  safety  in  these  seas,  under  a 
wise  and  carefiil  commander. 

FaANKLm's  Second  Expedition,  1825-26. 

Undaunted  by  the  hardships  and  sufferings  he  had 
encountered  in  his  previous  travels  with  a  noble  spirit 
of  ardor  and  enthusiasm,  Captain  Franklin  determined 


ri 


if 


in 


t  ? 


i  ';■ 


i     1 


c    1  ft*  I  i 


•     i 


i 


nil 


! 


> 


!     ■:,        t? 


t 


i 


i  1 


«:   a 


>     :rti| 


'!;ti 


I'll; 


ji 


138 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


to  prosecute  the  chain  of  his  former  discoveries  from 
the  Coppermine  river  to  the  most  western  point  of  the 
Arctic  regions.  A  sea  expedition,  under  the  conni^and 
of  Captain  Beechey  was  at  the  same  time  sent  round 
Cape  Horn  to  Behring's  Straits,  to  co-operate  with  Parry 
and  Franklin,  so  as  to  furnish  provisions  to  the  former, 
and  a  conveyance  home  to  the  latter. 

Captain  Iranklin's  offer  was  therefore  accepted  by 
the  government,  and  leaving  Liverpool  in  February, 
1825,  he  arrived  at  New  "i^rk  about  the  middle  of 
March.  The  officers  under  his  orders  were  his  old  and 
tried  companions  and  fellow  sufferers  in  the  former  jour- 
ney —  Dr.  Kichardson  and  Lieutennnt  Back,  with  Mr. 
E.  N.  Kendal,  a  mate  in  the  navy,  who  had  been  out  in 
the  Griper  with  Capt.  Lyon,  and  Mr.  T.  Drummond,  a 
naturalist.  Four  boats,  specially  prepared  for  the  pur- 
poses of  the  expedition,  were  sent  out  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  ship. 

In  July,  1825,  the  party  arrived  at  Fort  Chipewyan. 
It  is  unnecessary  to  go  over  the  ground  and  follow  them 
in  their  northern  journey;  suffice  it  to  say,  they  reached 
Great  Bear  Lake  in  safety,  and  erected  a  winter  dwell- 
ing on  its  western  shore,  to  which  the  name  of  Fort 
Franklin  was  given.  To  Back*  and  Mr.  Dease,  an  offi- 
cer in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  service,  were  in- 
trusted the  arrangements  for  their  winter  quarters. 

From  here  a  small  party  set  out  with  Franklin  down 
the  Mackenzie  to  examine  the  state  of  the  Polar  Sea. 
On  the  6th  of  September  they  got  back  to  their  com- 
panions, and  prepared  to  pass  the  long  winter  of  seven 
or  eight  months. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  1826,  the  season  being  suffi- 
ciently advanced,  and  all  their  preparations  completed, 
the  wholfc  party  got  away  in  four  boats  to  descend  the 
Mackenzie  to  the  Polar  Sea.  Where  the  river  branches 
oft*  into  several  channels,  the  party  separated  on  the  3d 
of  July,  »'Japtain  Franklin  and  Lieutenant  Back,  with 
two  bonlis  and  fourteen  men,  having  with  them  the 
faithful  Esquimaux  interpreter,  Augustus,  who  had 
been  with  them  on  the  former  expedition,  proceeded  to 


feanklin's  8EC0ND  expp:dition. 


139 


the  westward,  while  Dr.  Kichardson  and  Mr.  Kendal 
in  the  other  two  boats,  having  ten  men  under  their 
command,  set  out  in  an  easterly  direction,  to  search 
the  Coppermine  River. 

Franlvlin  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  on 
the  7th  of  July,  where  he  encountered  a  large  tribe  of 
tierce  Esquimaux,  who  pillaged  his  boats,  and  it  was 
only  by  great  caution,  prudence  and  forbearance,  that 
the  whole  party  were  not  massacred.  After  getting  the 
hoats  afloat,  and  clear  of  these  unpleasant  visitors, 
Franklin  pursued  his  survey,  a  most  tedious  and  difii- 
cult  one,  for  more  than  a  month ;  he  was  only  able  to 
reach  a  point  in  latitude  70°  24'  N.,  longitude  149°  37' 
W.,  to  which  Back's  name  was  given  ;  and  here  pru- 
dence obliged  him  to  return,  although,  strangely  enough, 
a  boat  from  the  Blossom  was  waiting  not  160  miles  west 
of  his  position  to  meet  with  him.  The  extent  of  coast 
surveyed  was  374  miles.  The  return  journey  to  Fort 
Franklin  was  safely  accomplished,  and  they  arrived  at 
their  house  on  the  31st  of  September,  when  they  found 
Eichardson  and  Kendal  had  returned  on  the  first  of 
the  month,  having  accomplished  a  voyage  of  about  500 
miles,  or  902  by  the  coast  line,  between  the  4th  of  July 
and  the  8th  of  August.  They  had  pushed  forward  be- 
yond the  strait  named  after  their  boats,  the  Dolphin  and 
tin  ion. 

In  ascending  the  Coppermine,  they  had  to  abandon 
tlieir  Ijoais  and  carry  their  provisions  and  baggage. 

Having  passed  another  winter  at  Fort  Franklin,  as 
soon  ^s  tne  season  broke  up  the  Canadians  were  dis- 
missed, and  the  party  returned  to  England. 

The  cold  experienced  in  the  last  winter  was  intense, 
the  thermometer  standing  at  one  time  at  58°  below  zero, 
but  having  now  plenty  of  food,  a  weather-tight  dwell- 
ing, and  good  health,  they  passed  it  cheerfully,  "f^r. 
Richardson  gave  a  course  of  lectures  on  practical  geol- 
ogy, and  Mr.  Drummond  furnished  information  on  natu- 
ral history.  During  the  winter,  in  a  solitary  hut  on  the 
Rocky  mountains,  he  managed  to  collect  200  specimens 
Df  birds,  animals,  &c.,  and  more  than  1500  of  plants. 
9  F* 


c- 


f,'i 


I 


'  ■':P' 


i 


ill  111 


140 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISOOVKRY. 


"When  Captain  Franklin  left  England  to  proceed  on 
this  expedition  he  had  to  nndergo  a  severe  struggle 
between  his  feelings  of  aiiection  and  a  sense  of  duty. 
His  wife  (he  has  been  married  twice)  was  then  lying  at 
the  point  of  death,  and  indeed  died  the  day  after  he 
left  England.  But  with  heroic  fortitude  she  urged  his 
departure  at  the  very  day  appointed,  entreating  him, 
as  he  valued  her  i:)eace  and  his  own  glory,  not  to  delay 
a  moment  on  her  account.  His  feelings,  therefore,  may 
be  inferred,  but  not  described,  when  he  had  to  elevate 
on  Garry  Island  a  silk  flag,  which  she  had  made  and 
given  him  as  a  parting  gift,  with  the  instruction  that 
he  was  only  to  hoist  it  on  reaching  the  Polar  Sea. 


iiiiii^! 


illift! 


Beechey's  Yoyage. — 1826-28. 

H.  M.  SLOOP  Blossom,  26,  Captain  F.  W.  Beechey, 
sailed  from  Spithead  on  the  19th  of  May,  1825,  and 
her  instructions  directed  her,  after  surveying  some  of 
the  islands  in  the  Pacific,  to  be  in  Behring's  Straits  by 
the  summer  or  autumn  of  1826,  and  contingently  in  that 
of  1827. 

It  is  foreign  to  my  purpose  here  to  allude  to  those 
parts  of  her  voyage  anterior  to  her  arrival  in  the  Straits. 

On  the  28th  of  June  tlie  Bk>ssom  came  to  an  anchor 
off  the  town  of  Petropolowski,  where  she  fell  in  with 
the  Russian  ship  of  war  Modeste,  under  the  commano 
of  Baron  AV^i-angel,  so  well  known  for  his  enterjDrise  ir. 
the  hazardous  expedition  by  sledges  over  the  ice  to  thf 
northward  of  Cape  Shelatskoi,  or  Errinos. 

Captain  Beechey  here  found  dispatches  informing 
him  of  the  return  of  Parry's  expedition.  Being  bese^ 
by  currents  and  other  difliculties,  it  was  not  till  the  Sth 
of  July  that  the  Blossom  got  clear  of  the  harbor,  and 
made  the  best  of  her  way  to  Kotzebue  Sound,  reaching 
the  a])pointed  rendezvous  at  Chamiso  Island  on  the  2oth. 
After  landing  and  burying  a  barrel  of  flour  upon  Puffin 
Itock,  the  most  unfrequented  spot  about  tiie  island,  the 
Blossom  occupied  the  time  in  surveying  and  examining 


BEECIIEY  8  VOYAGE. 


141 


the  neighboring  coasts  to  the  northeast.  On  the  30th 
she  took  her  departure  from  the  island,  erecting  posts 
or  land-marks,  and  bm'ying  dispatches  at  Cape  Krusen- 
stern,  near  a  cape  which  he  named  after  Franklin,  near 
Icy  Cape. 

The  ship  returned  to  the  rendezvous  on  the  evening 
of  the  28th  of  August.  The  barrel  of  flour  had  been 
dug  up  and  appropriated  by  the  natives. 

On  the  first  visit  of  one  of  these  parties,  they  con- 
structed a  chart  of  the  coast  upon  the  sand,  of  which, 
however.  Captain  Beechey  at  first  took  very  little  notice. 
"  They,  however,  renewed  their  labor,  and  performed 
their  work  upon  the  sandy  beach  in  a  very  ingenious  and 
intelligible  manner.  The  coast  line  was  first  marked 
out  with  a  stick,  and  the  distances  regulated  by  the 
day's  journey.  The  hills  and  ranges  of  mountains  were 
next  shoM  n  by  elevations  of  sand  or  stone,  and  the 
islands  represented  by  heaps  of  pebbles,  their  propor- 
tions being  duly  attended  to.  As  the  work  proceeded, 
some  of  the  bystanders  occasionally  suggested  altera- 
tions, and  Captain  Beechey  moved  one  of  the  Diomede 
Islands,  which  was  misplaced.  This  was  at  first  ob- 
jected to  by  the  hydrographer,  but  one  of  the  party 
recollecting  that  the  islands  were  seen  in  one  from  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  confirmed  its  new  position  and  made 
the  mistake  quite  evident  to  the  others,  who  were  much 
surprised  that  Captain  Beechey  should  have  any  knowl- 
edge of  the  subject.  When  the  mountains  and  islands 
were  erected,  the  villages  and  fishing-stations  were 
marked  by  a  number  of  sticks  placed  upright,  in  imita- 
tion of  those  which  are  put  up  on  the  coast  wherever 
these  people  fix  their  abode.  In  time,  a  complete  hy- 
drographical  plan  was  drawn  from  Cape  Derby  to  Cape 
Krusen'tern. 

This  ingenuity  and  accuracy  of  description  on  the 
part  of  the  Esquimaux  is  worthy  of  particular  remark, 
and  has  been  verified  by  almost  all  the  Arctic  explorers. 

The  barge  which  had  been  dispatched  to  the  east- 
ward, under  charge  of  Mr.  Elson,  reached  to  latitude 
71°  23'  31''  N.,  and  longitude  156°  21'  31"  W.,  where 


in    i.' 


p-   ■}. 


"'  <  r 


vt-' 


i 


h  ,■] 


; 


W 


"  ll 


i.l^i'N: 


142 


PROOBES8  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY 


fihe  was  stopped  by  the  ice  which  was  attached  to  the 
shore.  The  farthest  tongue  of  land  they  reached  was 
named  Point  Barrow,  and  is  about  126  miles  northeast 
of  Icy  Cape,  being  only  about  160  or  160  miles  from 
Franklin's  discoveries  west  of  the  Mackenzie  river. 

The  wind  suddenly  changing  to  southwest,  the  com- 
pact body  of  ice  began  to  drift  with  the  current  to  the 
northeast  at  the  rate  of  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour, 
and  Mr.  Elson,  finding  it  difficult  to  avoid  large  floating 
masses  of  ice,  was  obliged  to  come  to  an  anchor  to  pie- 
vent  being  driven  back.  "  It  was  not  long  before  he  was 
so  closely  beset  in  the  ice,  that  no  clear  water  could 
be  seen  in  any  direction  from  the  hills,  and  the  ice 
continuing  to  press  against  the  shore,  his  vessel  was 
driven  upon  the  beach,  and  there  left  upon  her  broad- 
side in  a  most  help!  ^ss  condition ;  and  to  add  to  his 
cheerless  prospect  ^he  disposition  of  the  natives,  whom 
he  found  to  increase  in  numbers  as  he  advanced  to  the 
northward,  was  of  a  very  doubtful  character.  At  Point 
Barrow,  where  they  were  very  numerous,  their  over- 
bearing behavior,  and  the  thefts  they  openly  prac- 
ticed, left  no  doubt  of  what  would  be  the  fate  of  his 
little  crew,  in  the  event  of  their  falling  into  their 
power.  They  were  in  this  dilemma  several  days,  dur- 
ing which  every  endeavor  was  made  to  extricate  the 
vessel  but  without  effect,  and  Mr.  Elson  contemplated 
sinking  her  secretly  in  a  lake  that  was  near,  to  prevent 
her  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Esquimaux,  and  then 
making  his  way  along  the  coast  in  a  baidar,  which  he 
bad  no  doubt  he  should  be  able  to  purchase  from  the 
natives.  At  length,  however,  a  change  of  wind  loos- 
ened the  ice,  and  after  considerable  labor  and  trial,  in 
which  the  personal  strength  of  the  officers  was  united 
to  that  of  the  seamen,  Mr.  Elson,  with  his  shipmates, 
fortimately  succeeded  in  efiecting  their  escape. 

Captain  Beechey  was  very  anxious  to  remain  in 
Kotzebue  Sound  until  the  end  of  October,  the  period 
named  in  his  instructions,  but  the  rapid  approach  of 
winter,  the  danger  of  being  locked  up,  havi..g  only 
five  weeks'  provisions  left,  and  the  nearest  point  at 


beechey's  voyage. 


143 


which  he  could  replenish  being  some  2000  miles  dis- 
tant, induced  his  officers  to  concur  with  him  in  the 
necessity  of  leaving  at  once.  A  barrel  of  flour  and 
other  articles  were  buried  on  the  sandy  point  of  Cha- 
miso,  for  i  ranklin,  which  it  was  hoped  would  escape 
the  prying  eyes  of  the  natives. 

After  a  cruise  to  California,  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
Loochoo,  the  Bonin  Islands,  &c.,  the  Blossom  returned 
to  Chamiso  Island  on  the  5th  of  July,  1827.  They 
found  the  flour  and  dispatches  they  had  left  the  pre- 
vious year  unmolested.  Lieut.  Belcher  was  dispatched 
in  the  barge  to  explore  the  coast  to  the  northward,  and 
the  ship  followed  her  as  soon  as  the  wind  permitted. 
On  the  0th  of  September,  when  standing  in  for  the 
northern  shore  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  the  ship  drifting 
with  the  current  took  the  ground  on  a  sand-bank  near 
Hotham  Inlet,  but  the  wind  moderating,  as  the  tide 
rose  she  went  off  the  shoal  apparently  without  injury. 

After  this  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck  they  beat 
up  to  Chamiso  Island,  which  they  reached  on  the  10th 
of  September.  ITot  finding  the  barge  returned  as  ex- 
pected, the  coast  was  scanned,  and  a  signal  of  distress 
found  flying  on  the  southwest  point  of  Choris  Pen- 
insula, and  two  men  waving  a  white  cloth  to  attract 
notice.  On  landing,  it  was  found  that  this  party  were 
the  crew  of  the  barge,  which  had  been  wrecked  in  Kot- 
zebue Sound,  and  three  of  the  men  were  also  lost. 

On  the  29th  a  collision  took  place  with  the  natives, 
which  resulted  in  three  of  the  seamen  and  four  of  the 
marines  being  wounded  by  arrows,  and  one  of  the  na- 
tives killed  by  the  return  fire. 

After  leaving  advices  for  Franklin,  as  before,  the 
Blossom  finally  left  Chamiso  on  the  6th  of  October. 
In  a  haze  and  strong  vind  she  ran  between  the  land 
and  a  shoal,  and  a  passage  had  to  be  forced  through 
breakers  at  the  imminent  danger  of  the  ship's  striking. 
The  Blossom  then  made  the  best  of  her  way  home, 
reaching  England  in  the  first  week  of  October,  1828. 


i   I 


.  »ii 


(^    ?! 


If 


!!!.• 


'i 


ii  i-  i: '    \ 


'i'y'    '..I 


li'llli!:  ::    i 


144  PB0GKE8S   OF  ARCJriO    DISCOVERY. 

Faeky's  Fourth,  or  Polar  Voyage,  1827. 

In  1826,  Capt.  Parry,  who  had  only  returned  from 
his  last  voyage  in  the  close  of  the  preceding  year,  was 
much  struck  by  the  suggestions  of  Mr.  Scoresby,  in  a 
paper  read  before  the  Wernerian  Society,  in  which  he 
sketched  out  a  plan  for  reaching  the  highest  latitudes 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  north  of  Spitzbergen,  by  means  of 
sledge  boats  drawn  over  the  smooth  fields  of  ice  which 
were  known  to  prevail  in  those  regions.  Col.  Beau- 
foy,  F.  R.  S.,  had  also  suggested  this  idea  some  years 
previously.  Comparing  these  with  a  similar  plan  orig- 
inally proposed  by  Captain  Franklin,  and  which  was 
placed  in  his  hands  by  Mr.  Barrow,  the  Secretary  of 
the  Admiralty,  Capt.  Parry  laid  his  modified  views  of 
the  feasibility  of  the  project,  and  his  willingness  to  un- 
dertake it,  before  Lord  Melville,  the  First  Lord  of  the 
Admiralty,  who,  after  consulting  with  the  President 
and  Council  of  the  Koyal  Society,  was  pleased  to  sanc- 
tion the  attempt ;  accordingly,  his  old  ship,  the  Hecla, 
was  fitted  out  for  the  voyage  to  Spitzbergen,  the  fol- 
lowing officers,  (all  of  whom  had  been  with  Parry  be- 
fore,) and  crew  being  appointed  to  her :  — 

JSecla, 

Captain — "W.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenants  —  J.  C.  Ross,  Henry  Foster,  E.  J.  Bird, 

F.  R.  M.  Crozier. 
Purser  —  James  Halse. 
Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 

On  the  4th  of  April,  1827,  the  outfit  and  prepara- 
tions being  completed,  the  Hecla  left  the  Nore  for  the 
coast  of  l^orway,  touching  at  Hammerfest,  to  embark 
eight  reindeer,  and  some  moss  {Oenomyce  rangiferiha) 
sufficient  for  their  support,  the  consumption  being 
about  4  lbs.  per  day,  but  they  can  go  without  food  for 
several  days.  A  tremendous  gale  of  wind,  experienced 
off  Hakhiyt's  Headland,  and  the  quantity  of  ice  with 
which  the  ship  was  in  consequence  beset,  detained  the 
voyagers  for  nearly  a  month,  but  on  the  18th  of  June, 


PAKRY  8   FOUKTII   VOYAGE. 


145 


a  southerly  wind  dispersing  the  ice,  they  dropped 
anchor  in  n  cove,  on  the  northern  coast  of  Spitzbergen, 
which  appeared  to  offer  a  secure  haven,  and  to  which 
the  name  of  the  ship  was  given.  On  the  20th,  the 
boats,  which  had  been  especially  prepared  in  England 
for  this  kind  of  journey,  were  got  out  and  made  ready, 
and  they  left  the  ship  on  the  22d  of  June.  A  descrip- 
tion of  these  boats  may  not  here  be  out  of  place. 

They  were  twenty  feet  long  and  seven  broad,  flat 
floored,  like  ferry  boats,  strengthened  and  made  elas- 
tic by  sheets  of  felt  between  the  planking,  covered 
with  water-proof  canvass.  A  runner  attached  to  each 
side  of  the  keel,  adapted  them  for  easy  draught  on  the 
ice  after  the  manner  of  a  sledge.  They  were  also  fit- 
ted with  wheels,  to  be  used  if  deemed  expedient  and 
useful.  Two  officers  and  twelve  men  were  attached 
to  each  boat,  and  they  were  named  the  Enterprise  and 
Endeavor.  The  weight  of  each  boat,  including  pro- 
visions and  every  requisite,  was  about  3780  lbs.  Lieuts, 
Crozier  and  Foster  were  left  on  board,  and  Capt.  Parry 
took  with  him  in  his  boat  Mr.  Beverley,  Surgeon,  while 
Lieut,  (now  Capt.  Sir  James)  Ross,  and  Lieut,  (now 
Commander)  Bird,  had  charge  of  the  other. 

The  reindeer  and  the  wheels  were  given  up  as  use- 
less, owing  to  the  rough  nature  of  the  ice.  Provisions 
for  seventy-one  days  were  taken  —  the  daily  allowance 
per  man  on  the  journey  being  10  ozs.  biscuit,  9  ozs. 
pemmican,  1  oz.  sweetened  cocoa  powder  (being 
enough  to  make  a  pint,)  and  one  gill  of  rum ;  but 
ecanty  provision  in  such  a  climate,  for  men  employed 
on  severe  labor ;  three  ounces  of  tobacco  were  also 
served  out  to  each  per  week. 

As  fuel  was  too  bulky  to  transport,  spirits  of  wine 
were  consumed,  which  answered  all  the  purposes  re- 
quired, a  pint  twice  a  day  being  found  sufficient  to 
warm  each  vessel,  when  applied  to  an  iron  boiler  by  a 
shallow  lamp  with  seven  wicks.  After  floating  the 
boats  <br  about  eighty  miles,  they  came  to  an  unpleas- 
ant mixed  surface  of  ice  and  water,  where  their  toilsome 
journey  commenced,  the  boats  having  to  be  laden  and 


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146 


rnOGRESS  OF  AEOTIO  DISCOVERY. 


'iiiii 


iiiiii: 


'■■  .1  '  i 


unladen  several  times  according  as  they  came  to  floea 
of  ice  or  lanes  of  water,  and  they  were  drifted  to  the 
southward  by  the  ice  at  the  rate  of  fom*  or  five  miles  a 
day.  Parry  found  it  more  advantageous  to  travel  by 
night,  the  snow  being  then  harder,  and  the  inconven- 
ience of  snow  blindness  being  avoided,  while  the  party 
enjoyed  greater  warmth  during  the  period  of  rest,  and 
had  better  opportunities  of  drying  their  clothes  by  the 
sun. 

I  cannot  do  better  than  quote  Parry's  graphic  de- 
scription of  this  novel  course  of  proceeding:  "Travel- 
ing by  night,  and  sleeping  by  day,  so  completely  in- 
verted the  natural  order  of  things  that  it  was  difficult 
to  persuade  ourselves  of  the  reality.  Even  the  officers 
and  myself,  who  were  all  furnished  with  pocket  chro- 
nometers, could  not  always  bear  in  mind  at  what  part 
of  the  twenty-hours  we  had  arrived ;  and  there  were 
several  of  the  men  who  declared,  and  I  believe  truly, 
that  they  never  knew  night  from  day  during  the  whole 
excursion. 

"  When  we  rose  in  the  evening,  we  commenced  our 
day  by  prayers,  after  which  we  took  off  our  fur  sleep- 
ing-dresses and  put  on  clothes  for  traveling ;  the  former 
being  made  of  camlet  lined  with  raccoon  skin,  and  the 
latter  of  strong  blue  cloth.  "We  made  a  point  of  al- 
ways putting  on  the  same  stockings  and  boots  for 
traveling  in,  whether  they  had  been  dried  during  the 
day  or  not,  and  I  believe  it  was  only  in  five  or  six  in- 
stances at  the  mosj:  that  they  were  not  either  still  wet 
or  hard  frozen.  This  indeed  was  of  no  consequence, 
beyond  the  discomfort  of  first  putting  them  on  in  this 
state,  as  they  were  sure  to  be  thoroughly  wet  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  after  commencing  our  journey; 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  it  was  of  vital  importance 
to  keep  dry  things  for  sleeping  in.  Being 'rigged' 
for  traveling,  we  breakfasted  upon  warm  cocoa  and 
biscuit,  and  after  stowing  the  things  in  the  boats,  and 
on  the  sledges,  so  as  to  secure  them  as  much  as  pos- 
sible from  wet,  we  set  off  on  our  day's  journey,  and 
usually  traveled  four,  five,  or  even  six  hours,  accord- 
iuir  to  circumstances." 


an( 
no( 
of 

Lit 
del 


ce 

? 


PARTIY'8   FOURTH   VOYAGE. 


147 


In  five  days,  notwithstanding  their  perseverance 
and  continued  journeys,  they  found,  by  observation  at 
noon,  on  tlie  30th,  that  they  had  only  made  eight  miles 
of  direct  northing. 

At  Walden  Island,  one  of  the  Seven  Islands,  and 
Little  Table  Island,  reserve  supplies  of  provisions  were 
deposited  to  fall  back  upon  in  case  of  necessity. 

In  halting  early  in  the  morning  for  the  purposes  of 
rest,  the  boats  were  hauled  up  on  the  largest  piece  of 
ice  that  offered  the  least  chance  of  breaking  through, 
or  of  coming  in  contact  with  other  masses,  the  snow  or 
wet  was  cleaned  out  and  the  sails  rigged  as  awnings. 
"  Every  man  then  immediately  put  on  dry  stockings 
and  fur  boots,  after  which  we  set  about  the  necessary 
repairs  of  boats,  sledges,  or  clothes,  and  after  serving 
the  provisions  for  the  succeeding  day,  we  went  to  sup- 
per. Most  of  the  officers  and  men  then  smoked  their 
pipes,  which  served  to  dry  the  boats  and  awnings  very 
much,  and  usually  raised  the  temperature  of  our  lodg- 
ings 10°  or  15°.  This  part  of  the  twenty-four  houra 
was  often  a  time,  and  the  only  one,  of  real  enjoyment 
to  us  ;  the  men  told  their  stories,  and  fought  all  their 
battles  o'er  again,  and  the  labors  of  the  day,  unsuccess- 
ful as  they  too  often  were,  were  forgotten.  A  regular 
watch  was  set  during  our  resting  time,  to  look  out  for 
bears,  or  for  the  ice  creaking  up  round  us,  as  well  as 
to  attend  to  the  drying  of  the  clothes,  each  man  alter- 
nately taking  this  duty  for  one  hour.  "We  then  con- 
cluded our  day  with  prayers,  and  having  put  on  our 
fur  dresses,  lay  down  to  sleep  with  a  degree  of  comfort 
which  perhaps  few  persons  would  imagine  possible  un- 
der such  circumstances,  our  chief  inconvenience  being, 
that  we  were  somewhat  pinched  for  room,  and  there- 
fore obliged  to  stow  rather  closer  than  was  quite  agree- 
able." 

This  close  stowage  may  be  imagined  when  it  is  re- 
membered that  thirteen  persons  had  to  sleep  in  a  boat 
seven  feet  broad.  After  sleeping  about  seven  hours, 
they  were  roused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  sound  of 
a  bugle  from  the  cook  and  watchman,  which  announced 


o 

■—I 
ft! 

c:; 
:^:  ■ 

•r. " 


i 


tt» 


14 


t 

! 

ii'  ; 


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i 


ii!' 


I' 


A  i^: 


148 


PKOOKEBS   OF    AltCTIC    DISCOVKUY. 


I!! 


that  their  cocoa  was  smoking  hot,  and  invited  them  to 
breakfast. 

Their  progress  was  of  the  most  tedious  and  toilsome 
character,  heavy  showers  of  rain  rendering  the  ice  on 
many  occasions  a  mass  of  "  slush  ;"  on  others  there  was 
from  six  to  eighteen  inches  of  snow  lying  on  the  sur- 
face. Frequently  the  crew  had  to  proceed  on  their 
hands  and  knees  to  secure  a  footing,  and  on  one  occa- 
sion they  made  such  a  snail-like  progress  that  in  two 
hours  they  only  accomplished  150  yards.  On  the  12th 
of  Jul^,  they  had  reached  the  latitude  of  82°  14'  28". 
After  live  hours'  unceasing  labor  on  the  14th,  the  pro- 
gress was  but  a  mile  and  a  half  due  north,  though 
from  three  to  four  miles  had  been  traversed,  and  ten  at 
least  walked,  having  made  three  journeys  a  great  part 
of  the  way  ;  launched  and  hauled  up  the  boats  four 
times,  and  dragged  them  over  twenty-five  separate 
pieces  of  ice.  On  the  18th,  after  eleven  hours  of  ac- 
tual labor,  requiring  for  the  most  part  the  exertion  of 
the  whole  strength  of  the  party,  they  had  traveled  over 
1  space  not  exceeding  four  miles,  of  which  only  two 
were  made  good. 

But  on  halting  on  the  morning  of  the  20th,  having 
by  his  reckoning  accomplished  six  and  a  half  miles  in 
a  N.  N.  W.  direction,  the  distance  traversed  being  ten 
miles  and  a  half.  Parry  found  to  his  mortification  from 
observation  at  noon,  that  they  were  not  Jive  miles  to 
the  northward  of  their  place  at  noon  on  the  17th, 
although  they  had  certainly  traveled  twelve  miles  in 
that  direction  since  then. 

On  the  21st,  a  floe  of  ice  on  which  they  had  lodged 
the  boats  and  sledges,  broke  with  their  weight,  and  all 
went  through  with  several  of  the  crew,  who,  with  the 
sledges  were  providentially  saved. 

On  the  23d,  the  farthest  northerly  point  was  reached, 
which  was  about  82°  45'. 

At  noon  on  the  26th,  the  weather  being  clear,  the 
meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  was  obtained,  "  by  which," 
eays  Parry, "  we  found  ourselves  in  latitude  82°  40'  23", 
60  that  since  our  last  observation  (at  midnight  on  tho 


22( 

hal 

sot 

tra 

iiit( 

of 


PARRY  8  FOURTH  VOIAOE. 


149 


22d,)  we  had  lost  by  drift  no  less  than  thirteen  and  a 
halt'  miles,  for  we  wero  now  more  than  three  miles  to  the 
Bonthward  of  that  observation,  though  we  had  certainly 
traveled  between  ten  and  eleven,  due  north  in  this 
interval  I  Again,  we  were  but  one  mile  to  the  riorth 
of  our  place  at  noon  on  the  2l8t,  though  we  had  esti- 
mated our  distance  made  good  at  twenty-three  miles." 
After  encountering  every  species  of  fatigue  and  dis- 
heartening obstacles,  in  peril  of  their  lives  almost  every 
hour,  Parry  now  became  convinced  that  it  was  hope- 
less to  pursue  the  journey  any  further,  and  he  could 
not  even  reach  the  eighty-third  parallel ;  for  after  thir- 
ty-five days  of  continuous  and  most  fatiguing  drudg- 
ery, with  half  their  resources  expended,  and  the  mid- 
dle of  the  season  arrived,  he  found  that  the  distance 
gained  in  their  laborious  traveling  was  lost  by  the 
drift  and  sea  of  the  ice  with  the  southerly  current  dur- 
ing the  period  of  rest.  After  planting  their  ensigns 
and  pennants  on  the  26th,  and  making  it  a  day  of  rest 
on  the  27th,  the  return  to  the  southward  was  com- 
menced. Nothing  particular  occurred.  Lieutenant 
Koss  managed  to  bring  down  with  his  gun  a  fat  she 
bear,  which  came  to  have  a  look  at  the  boats,  and  af- 
ter gormandizing  on  its  tlesh,  an  excess  which  may 
be  excused  considering  it  was  the  first  fresh  meat  they 
had  tasted  for  many  a  day,  some  symptoms  of  indi- 
gestion manifested  themselves  among  the  party. 

On  the  outward  journey  very  little  of  animal  life 
was  seen.  A  passing  gull,  a  solitary  rotge,  two  seals, 
and  a  couple  of  tiies,  were  all  that  their  eager  eyes 
could  detect.  But  on  their  return,  these  became  more 
numerous.  On  the  8th  of  August,  seven  or  eight  nar- 
whals were  seen,  and  not  less  than  200  rotges,  a  fiock 
of  these  little  birds  occuring  in  every  hole  of  water. 
On  the  11th,  in  latitude  81"^  30',  the  sea  war,  found 
crowded  with  shrimps  and  other  sea  insects,  on  which 
numerous  birds  were  feeding.  On  this  day  they  took 
their  last  meal  on  the  ice,  being  fifty  miles  distant  from 
Table  island,  having  accomplished  in  fiteen  days  what 
had  taken  them  thirty-three  to  etiect  on  their  outward 


"Sill 

■—■I 


t: 

. -■;:•■ 


■!li 


.  IM 


m 


It' 

1 1' 


ino 


IMtOOKESM   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVKRY. 


journev.  On  tho  12tli,  they  firrived  at  tluR  iHlatul.  Tho 
l)t'jirrt  htid  wulkoil  oft'  with  tho  reluv  of  hreml  uliic'i 
had  been  depoaited  there.  To  an  inlet  lyinfj;  oft'  'JuhK- 
Island,  and  the  most  northern  known  land  upon  the 
globe,  Parry  gave  the  name  of  lloss,  for  "  no  mdivid- 
ual,"  he  observes,  "  could  have  exerted  himself  more 
strenuously  to  rob  it  of  this  distinction." 

Putting  to  sea  again,  a  storm  obliged  the  boats  to 
bear  up  for  Walden  Island.  "  Every  thing  belofigiiig  to 
UB  (says  Captain  Parry)  was  now  comj^letely  drenched 
by  the  spray  and  snow  ;  we  had  been  fifty-six  hours 
without  rest,  and  forty-eight  at  work  in  the  bouts,  ro 
that  by  the  time  they  were  unloaded  we  had  baruly 
strength  left  to  haul  them  up  on  the  rocks.  However, 
by  dint  of  great  exertion,  we  managed  to  get  the  bouts 
above  the  surf ;  after  which  a  hot  supper,  a  blazing 
fire  of  drift  wood,  and  a  few  hours  quiet  rest,  restored 


us." 

They  finally  reached  the  ship  on  the  2l8t  of  August, 
after  sixty-one  days'  absence. 

"  The  distance  traversed  during  this  excursion  was 
6GD  geographical  miles  ;  but  allowing  for  the  times  we 
had  to  return  for  our  baggage,  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  journey  over  the  ice,  we  estimated  our  actual 
traveling  at  978  geographical,  or  1127  statute  miles. 
Considering  our  constant  exposure  to  wet,  cold,  and 
fatigue,  our  stockings  having  generally  been  drenched 
in  snow-water  for  twelve  hours  out  of  every  twenty- 
four,  I  had  great  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  excellent 
health  in  which,  upon  the  whole,  we  reached  the  ship. 
There  is  little  doubt  that  we  had  all  become  in  a  certain 
degree  gradually  weaker  for  some  time  past ;  but  only 
three  men  of  our  party  now  required  medical  care  — 
two  of  them  with  badly  swelled  legs  and  general  de 
Ivlity,  and  the  other  from  a  bruise,  but  even  these  three 
returned  to  their  duty  in  a  short  time." 

In  a  letter  from  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  to  Sir  John  Barrow, 
dated  November  25,  1845,  he  thus  suggests  some  im- 
provements on  his  old  plan  of  proceedings  : — 

"  It  is  evident  (he  says)  that  the  causes  of  failure  in 


0 

two  I 
stutj 
tho 
diroi 


mere 
possi 
io  rJ 
svhicl 


way, 
light ; 


pakuy's  fourth  voyage. 


151 


0  foriiier  utfonipt,  in  the  year  1827,  were  prlncipiiUy 
two  :  lii'Ht,  and  chieHy,  the  broken,  rugjijeil,  and  Hotl 
Btute  of  tlic  ice  over  which  we  traveled  ;  and  secondlv, 
the  drifting  of  the  whole  body  of  ice  in  a  Boutherly 
direction. 

"  My  amended  plan  is,  to  f^o  out  with  a  single  ship 
to  Spitzbergen,  just  as  we  did  in  the  Ilecla,  but  not  so 
early  in  the  season ;  the  object  for  that  year  being 
merely  to  find  secure  winter  quarters  as  far  north  as 
possible.  For  this  purpose  it  would  only  be  necessary 
\o  reach  Hakluvt's  Iicadland  by  the  end  of  June, 
which  would  arford  ample  leisure  for  examining  the 
more  northern  lands,  especially  about  tlie  Seven  Islands, 
where,  in  all  probability,  a  secure  nook  might  be  found 
tor  the  ship,  and  a  starting  point  for  the  proposed  ex- 
pedition, some  forty  or  lifty  miles  in  advance  of  the 
point  where  the  Ilecla  was  before  laid  up.  The  winter 
might  be  usefully  employed  in  various  preparations  for 
the  journey,  as  well  as  in  magnetic,  astronomical,  and 
meteorological  observations,  of  high  interest  in  that 
latitude.  I  propose  that  the  expeditioTi  should  leave 
the  ship  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  April,  when  the 
ice  would  present  one  hard  and  unbroken  surface,  over 
which,  as  I  confidently  believe,  it  would  not  be  difficult 
to  make  good  thirty  miles  per  day,  without  any  expo- 
sure to  wet,  and  probably  without  snow  blindness.  At 
this  season,  too,  the  ice  would  probably  be  stationary, 
and  thus  the  two  great  difficulties  which  we  formerly 
had  to  encounter  would  be  entirely  obviated.  It  might 
form  a  part  of  the  plan  to  push  otit  supplies  previously, 
to  the  distance  of  100  miles,  to  be  taken  up  on  the 
way,  so  as  to  commence  the  journey  comparatively 
light ;  and  as  the  intention  would  be  to  complete  the 
enterprise  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  May,  before 
any  disruption  of  the  ice,  or  any  material  softening  of 
the  surface  had  taken  place,  similar  supplies  might  be 
sent  out  to  the  same  distance,  to  meet  the  party  on 
their  return." 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  last  work,  com- 
menting on  this,  says,  "  With  all  deference  to  so  dia- 


^n-i 


:l* 


H 


•II 


m.'  ':i'- 


I  lilt' 


152 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


tingnished  a  sea  officer,  in  posRession  of  so  much  expe- 
rience as  Sir  Edward  Parry,  there  are  others  who 
express  dislike  of  such  a  plan  ;  and  it  is  not  improba- 
ble that  many  will  be  disposed  to  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion, that  so  long  as  the  Greenland  Seas  are  hampered 
with  ice,  so  long  as  floes,  and  hummocks,  and  heavy 
masses,  continue  to  be  formed,  so  long  as  a  determined 
southerly  current  prevails,  so  long  will  any  attempt  to 
carry  out  the  plan  in  question,  in  like  manner  fail.  No 
laborious  drudgery  will  ever  be  able  to  conquer  the 
opposing  progress  of  the  current  and  the  ice.  besides, 
it  can  hardly  be  doubted,  this  gallant  officer  will  admit, 
on  further  consideration,  that  this  unusual  kind  of  dis- 
gusting and  unseamanlike  labor,  is  not  precisely  such 
as  would  be  relished  by  the  men  ;  and,  it  may  be  said, 
is  not  exactly  fitted  for  a  British  man-of-war's-man ; 
moreover,  that  it  required  his  own  all-powerful  example 
to  make  it  even  tolerable."  Sir  John  therefore  sug- 
gested a  somewhat  diiferent  plan.  He  recommended 
that  two  small  ships  should  be  sent  in  the  early  spring 
along  the  western  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  where  usually 
no  impediment  exists,  as  far  up  as  80°.  They  should 
take  every  opportunity  of  proceeding  directly  to  the 
north,  where,  in  about  82°,  Parry  has  told  us  the  large 
floes  had  disappeared,  and  the  sea  was  found  to  be 
loaded  only  with  looR.a,  disconnected,  small  rj.asses  of 
ice,  through  which  ships  would  find  no  difficulty  in 
sailing,  though  totally  unfit  for  boats  dragging ;  and  as 
this  loose  ice  was  drifting  to  the  southward,  he  further 
says,  that  before  the  middle  of  August  a  ship  might 
have  sailed  up  to  the  latitude  of  82°,  almost  withoni 
touching  a  piece  of  ice.  It  is  not  then  unreasonable  to 
expect  that  beyond  that  parallel,  even  as  far  as  the 
pole  itself,  the  sea  would  be  free  of  ice,  during  the  six 
summer  months  of  perpetual  sun,  through  each  of  the 
twenty-four  hours  ;  which,  with  the  aid  of  the  current, 
would,  in  all  probability,  destroy  and  dissipate  the 
polar  ice. 

The  distance  from  Hakluyt's  Headland  to  the  pole 
is  GOO  geographical  miles.    Granting  the  ships  to  make 


h.ad 


parry's  fourth  voyage. 


153 


liglit 


only  twenty  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  (on  the  suppo- 
sition of  much  sailing  ice  to  go  through,)  even  in  tliat 
case  it  would  rer[uire  but  a  month  to  enable  the  e  ':- 
plorer  to  put  his  foot  on  the  pivot  or  point  of  the  axis 
on  which  the  globe  of  the  earth  turns,  remain  there  a 
month,  if  necessary,  to  obtain  the  sought-for  informa- 
tion, and  then,  with  a  southerly  current,  a  fortnight, 
probably  less,  would  bring  him  back  to  Spitzbergen.  * 

In  a  notice  in  the  Quarterly  Review  of  this,  one  of 
the  most  singular  and  perilous  journeys  of  its  kind 
ever  undertaken,  except  perhaps  that  of  Baron  AVran- 
gell  upon  a  blmilar  enterprise  to  the  northward  of  Behr- 
ing's  Straits,  it  is  observed,  —  "Let  any  one  conceive 
for  a  moment  the  situation  of  two  open  boats,  laden 
with  seventy  days'  provisions  and  clothing  for  twenty- 
eight  men,  in  the  midst  of  a  sea  covered  nearly  with 
detached  masses  and  floes  of  ice,  over  whicli  these 
boats  were  to  be  dragged,  sometimes  up  one  side  of  a 
rugged  mass,  and  down  the  other,  sometimes  across  the 
lanes  of  water  that  separate  them,  frequently  over  a 
surface  covered  with  deej)  snow,  or  through  pools  of 
water.  Let  him  bear  in  mind,  that  the  men  liad  little 
or  no  chance  of  any  other  supply  of  provisions  than 
that  which  they  carried  with  them,  calculated  as  just 
sufficient  to  P".stain  life,  and  consider  what  their  si^-ua- 
tion  would  have  been  in  the  event,  by  no  means  an 
improbable  one,  of  losing  any  part  of  their  scanty 
stock.  Let  any  one  try  to  imagine  to  himself  a  situa- 
tion of  this  kind,  and  he  will  still  have  but  a  faint  idea 
of  the  exertions  which  the  men  under  Captain  Parry 
liad  to  make,  and  the  sufferings  and  privations  they 
had  to  undergo." 

Captain  Parry  having  thus  completed  his  fifth  voy- 
age into  the  arctic  regions,  in  four  of  which  be  com- 
manded, and  was  second  in  the  other,  it  may  here  be 
desirable  ^o  give  a  recapitulation  of  his  services. 

In  1818  he  was  appointed  Lieutenant,  commaiiding 
the  Alexander,  hired  ship,  as  second  ofiicer  with  his 
uncle,  Commander  John  Koss.    In  1819,  still  as  Lieu- 
*  Barrow's  Voyages  of  Discoveiy,  p.  316. 


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154 


PEOGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


tenant,  he  was  appointed  to  command  the  Hecla,  and 
to  take  charge  of  the  second  arctic  expedition,  on  which 
service  he  was  employed  two  years.  On  the  14th  of 
November,  1820,  ne  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
Commander. 

On  the  19th  of  December,  1820,  the  Bedfordean 
Gold  Medal  of  the  Bath  and  West  of  England  Society 
for  the  Encom*agement  of  Arts,  Manutactures,  and 
Commerce,  was  unanimously  voted  to  him.  On  the 
30th  of  December  of  that  year,  he  was  appointed  to 
the  Fury,  with  orders  to  take  command  of  the  expedi- 
tion to  the  Arctic  Sea.  With  the  sum  of  600  guineas, 
subscribed  for  the  purpose,  "  the  Explorer  of  the  Polar 
Sea  "  was  afterward  presented  with  a  silver  vase, 
highly  embellished  with  devices  emblematic  of  the 
arctic  voyages.  And  on  the  24th  of  March,  1821,  the 
city  of  Bath  presen^'^d  its  freedom  to  Captain  Parry,  in 
a  box  of  oak,  higL  j  and  appropriately  ornamented. 
On  the  8th  of  November,  1821,  he  obtained  his  post' 
captain's  rank.  On  the  22d  of  November,  1823,  he 
was  presented  with  the  freedom  of  the  city  of  Win- 
chester ;  and,  on  the  1st  of  December,  was  appointed 
acting  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty  in  the  place  of 
Captain  Hina,  deceased.  In  1824  he  was  appointed  to 
the  Hecla,  to  proceed  on  another  exploring  voyage. 

On  the  22d  of  November,  1825,  Captain  Parry  was 
formally  appointed  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty, 
which  office  he  continued  to  hold  until  the  10th  of 
November,  1826. 

In  December,  1825,  he  was  voted  the  freedom  of  the 
borough  of  Lynn,  in  testimony  of  the  high  sense  enter- 
tained by  the  corpoi  ation  of  nis  meritorious  and  enter 
prising  conduct. 

In  April,  1827,  he  once  more  took  the  command  of 
his  old  ship,  the  Hecla,  for  another  voyage  of  discovery 
toward  the  North  Pole.  On  his  return  in  the  close  of 
the  year,  having  paid  off  the  Hecla  at  Deptford,  h^ 
resumed,  on  the  2d  of  November,  his  duties  as  hydro- 
grapher to  the  Admiralty,  which  office  he  held  until 
♦he  13th  of  May,  1829.    Having  received  the  lv«ior  of 


SM^- 


of 
to 


of 

the 
ter- 
ter 


CAITAIN   BOBS  8   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


156 


knighthood,  he  then  resigned  in  favor  of  the  present 
Admiral  Beaufort,  and,  obtaining  permission  from  the 
Admiralty,  proceeded  to  IS^ew  South  Wales  as  resident 
Commissioner  to  the  Australian  Agricultural  Com 
pan}^,  taking  charge  of  their  recently  acquired  large 
territory  in  the  neighborhood  of  Port  Stephen,  lie 
returned  from  Australia  in  1834.  From  the  7th  of 
March,  1835,  to  the  3d  of  February,  1836,  he  acted  as 
Poor  Law  Commissioner  in  Norfolk.  Early  in  1837, 
he  was  appointed  to  organize  the  Mail  Packet  Service, 
fhen  transferred  to  the  Admiralty,  and  afterward,  in 
April,  was  appointed  Controller  of  steam  machinery  to 
the  Navy,  which  office  he  continued  to  hold  up  to  De- 
cember, 1846.  From  that  period  to  the  present  time 
he  has  filled  the  post  of  Captain  Superintendent  of  the 
Royal  Navy  Hospital  at  Haslar. 

Captain  John  Ross's  Second  Yotage,  1829-33. 

In  the  year  1829,  Capt.  Ross,  the  pioneer  of  arctic 
exploration  in  the  19th  century,  being  anxious  once 
more  to  display  his  zeal  and  enterprise  as  well  as  to 
retrieve  his  nautical  reputation  from  those  unfortunate 
blunders  and  mistakes  which  had  attached  to  his  first 
voyage,  and  thus  remove  the  cloud  which  had  for 
nearly  ten  years  hung  over  his  professional  character, 
endeavored  without  effect  to  induce  the  government 
to  send  him  out  to  the  Polar  Seas  in  charge  of  another 
expedition.  The  Board  of  Admiralty  of  that  day,  in 
the  spirit  of  retrenchment  which  pervaded  their  coun- 
cils, were,  however,  not  disposed  to  recommend  any 
further  grant  for  research,  even  the  Board  of  Longi- 
tude was  abolished,  and  the  boon  of  20,000^.  ottered 
by  act  of  parliament  for  the  promotion  of  arctic  dis- 
covery, also  withdrawn  by  a  repeal  of  the  act. 

Caiitain  Ross,  however,  undaunted  by  the  chilling 
indifference  thus  manifested  toward  his  proposals  by 
the  Admiralty,  still  persevered,  having  devoted  3000//. 
out  of  his  own  funds  toward  the  prosecution  of  the  ob- 
ject he  had  in  view.  He  was  fortunate  enough  to 
10  Q 


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nil 


It  1 
Pi     fcl 


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Isi; 


1 


156 


PROGRESS   OF   AKOTIO   DISCOVFRT. 


meet  with  a  public-spirited  and  affluent  coadjutoi  And 
supporter  in  the  late  Sir  Felix  Booth,  the  eminen  dis- 
tiller, and  that  gentleman  nobly  contributed  17^^)00^. 
toward  the  expenses.  Captain  Ross  thereupon  set  to 
work,  and  purchased  a  small  Liverpool  steamer  named 
the  Victory,  whose  tonnage  he  increased  to  150  tons. 
She  was  provisioned  for  three  years.  Captain  Ross 
chose  for  his  second  in  command  his  nephew,  Com- 
mander James  Ross,  who  had  been  with  him  on  his 
first  arctic  expedition,  and  had  subsequently  accompa- 
nied Parry  in  all  his  voyages.  The  other  officers  of  the 
vessel  were  —  Mr.  William  Thom,  purser  ;  Mr.  George 
M'Diarmid,  surgeon ;  Thomas  Blanky,Thos.  Abernethy, 
and  George  Taylor,  as  1st,  2d,  and  3d,  mates  ;  Alex- 
ander Brunton  and  Allen  Macinnes  as  1st  and  2d  engi- 
neers ;  and  nineteen  petty  officers  and  seamen  ;  making 
a  complement  in  all  of  28  men. 

The  Admiralty  furnished  toward  the  purposes  of  the 
expedition  a  decked  boat  of  sixteen  tons,  called  the 
Krusenstern,  and  two  boats  which  had  been  used  by 
Franklin,  with  a  stock  of  books  and  instruments. 

The  vessel  being  reported  ready  for  sea  was  visited 
and  examined  by  the  late  King  of  the  French,  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty,  and  other  parties  taking  an 
interest  in  the  expedition,  and  set  sail  from  Woolwich 
on  the  23d  of  May,  1829.  For  all  practical  purposes 
the  steam  machinery,  on  which  the  commander  had 
greatly  relied,  was  found  on  trial  utterly  useless. 

Having  received  much  damage  to  her  spars,  in  a 
severe  gale,  the  ship  put  in  to  the  Danish  settlement  of 
Holsteinbers:,  on   the  Greenland  coast,  to  refit,  and 


to' 


ssUed  again  to  the  northward  on  the  26th  of  June. 
They  found  a  clear  sea,  and  even  in  the  middle  of  Lan- 
caster Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait  perceived  no  traces 
of  ice  or  snow,  except  what  appeared  on  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  some  of  the  mountains.  The  thermometer  stood 
at  40°,  and  the  weather  was  so  mild  that  the  officers 
dined  in  the  cabin  without  a  fire,  with  the  skylight 
partially  open.  On  the  10th  of  August  they  passed 
Ca])e  York,  and  thence  crossed  over  into  Rc?gent  InU  * 


11 1 " '  I 


OAPTAIN  BOSS  8   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


167 


making  the  western  coast  between  Sepping's  and  Elwin 
Bay  on  the  16th. 

They  here  fell  in  with  those  formidable  streams, 
packs,  and  floating  bergs  of  ice  which  had  offered  such 
obstructions  to  Parry's  ships.  From  their  proximity  to 
the  magnetic  pole,  their  compasses  became  useless  as 
they  proceeded  southward.  On  the  13th  they  reached 
the  spot  where  the  Fury  was  abandoned,  but  no  rem- 
nants of  the  vessel  were  to  be  seen.  AH  her  sails, 
stores,  and  provisions,  on  land,  were,  however,  found  ; 
the  hermetically-sealed  tin  canisters  having  kept  the 
provisions  from  the  attacks  of  bears ;  and  the  flour, 
bread,  wine,  spirits,  sugar,  &c.,  proved  as  jgood,  after 
being  here  four  years,  as  on  the  first  day  they  were 
packed.  This  store  formed  a  very  seasonable  addition, 
which  was  freely  made  available,  and  after  increasing 
their  stock  to  two  years  and  ten  months'  supply,  they 
still  left  a  large  quantity  for  the  wants  of  any  future 
explorers.  On  the  15th,  crossing  Cresswell  Bay,  they 
reached  Cape  Garry,  the  farthest  point  which  had  been 
seen  by  Parry.  They  were  here  much  inconvenienced 
and  delayed  by  fogs  and  floating  ice.  While  moun- 
tains of  ice  were  tossing  around  them  on  every  side, 
they  were  often  forced  to  seek  safety  by  mooring  them- 
selves to  these  formidable  masses,  and  drifting  with 
them,  sometimes  forward,  sometimes  backward.  In  this 
manner  on  one  occasion  no  less  than  nineteen  miles 
were  lost  in  a  few  hours  ;  at  other  times  they  under- 
went frequent  and  severe  shocks,  yet  escaped  any  seri- 
ous damage. 

Captain  Ross  draws  a  lively  picture  of  what  a  ves- 
sel endures  in  sailing  among  these  moving  hills.  He 
reminds  the  reader  that  ice  is  stone,  as  solid  as  if  it 
were  granite  ;  and  he  bids  him  "  imagine  these  moun- 
tains hurled  through  a  narrow  strait  by  a  rapid  tide, 
meeting  with  the  noise  of  thunder,  breaking  from  each 
other's  precipices  huge  fragments,  or  rending  each 
other  asunder,  till,  losing  their  former  equilibrium, 
they  fell  over  headlong,  lifting  the  sea  around  in  break- 
ers and  whirling  it  in  eddies     There  is  not  a  moment 


Co 


ti 


1 
t 


1 

- 

i 

i 

) 

I 


Mil  ; . 

I"  'I    !  ! 


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it  m 


i:-t 


t-    l- 


158 


PE0GRES8   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


In  which  it  can  be  conjectured  what  will  happen  in  the 
next ;  there  is  not  one  which  may  nf^t  be  the  last.  The 
attention  is  troubled  to  fix  on  any  thin/?  amid  such  con 
fusion  ;  still  must  it  be  alive,  that  it  may  seize  i.»n  the 
single  moment  of  help  or  escape  which  may  occur 
Yet  with  all  this,  and  it  is  the  hardest  task  of  all,  there 
is  nothing  to  be  acted, —  no  effort  to  be  made, —  he 
must  be  patient,  as  if  he  were  unconcerned  or  careless, 
waiting,  as  he  best  can,  for  the  fate,  be  it  what  it  may, 
which  he  cannot  influence  or  avoid." 

Proceeding  southward,  Ross  found  Brentford  Bay, 
about  thirty  miles  beyond  Cape  Garry,  to  be  of  consid- 
erable extent,  with  some  fine  harbors.  Landing  here, 
the  British  'colors  were  unfurled,  and  the  coast,  named 
after  the  promoter  of  the  expedition,  was  taken  posses- 
sion of  in  the  name  of  the  King.  Extensive  and  com- 
modious harbors,  named  Ports  Logan,  Elizabeth,  and 
Eclipse,  were  discovered,  and  a  large  bay,  which  was 
called  Mary  Jones  Bay.  By  the  end  of  September 
the  ship  had  examined  300  miles  of  undiscovered  coast 
The  winter  now  set  in  with  severity,  huge  masses  of 
ice  began  to  close  around  them,  the  thermometer  sanl} 
many  degrees  below  freezing  point,  and  snow  fell  very 
thick.  J3y  sawing  through  the  ice,  the  vessel  was  got 
into  a  secure  position  to  pass  the  winter,  in  a  station 
which  is  now  named  on  the  maps  Felix  Harbor.  Tho 
nmchinery  of  the  steam  engine  was  done  away  with, 
the  vessel  housed,  and  every  measure  that  could  add  to 
the  comfort  of  the  crew  adopted.  They  had  abundance 
of  fuel,  and  provisions  that  might  easily  be  extended 
to  three  years. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  1831,  they  were  visited  by  a 
large  tribe  of  Esquimaux,  who  were  better  dressed  and 
cleaner  than  those  more  to  the  northward.  They  dis- 
played an  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  situation  and 
Gearings  of  the  country  over  which  they  had  traveled, 
and  two  of  them  drew  a  very  fair  sketch  of  the  neigh- 
boring coasts,  with  which  they  were  familiar  ;  this 
was  revised  and  corrected  by  a  learned  lady  named 
Teriksin, —  the  females  seeming,  from  this  and  former 


lill'Vll 


Vff' 


OAFfAIN   ROSS  S   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


159 


instances,  to  have  a  clear  knowledge  of  the  hydrography 
and  geography  of  the  continent,  bays,  straits,  and  riv- 
ers which  they  had  once  traversed. 

On  the  6th  of  April,  Commander  Ross,  with  Mr. 
Blanky,  the  chief  mate,  and  two  Esquimaux  guides,  set 
out  to  explore  a  strait  which  was  reported  as  lying  to 
the  westward,  and  which  it  was  hoped  might  lead  to 
the  western  sea.  After  a  tedious  and  arduous  journey, 
they  arrived,  on  the  third  day,  at  a  bay  facing  to  the 
westward  and  discovered,  further  inland,  an  extensive 
lake,  called  by  the  natives  Nie-tyle--.e,  whence  a  broad 
river  flowed  into  the  bay.  Their  gu'.des  informed  them, 
however,  there  was  no  prospect  of  a  water  comunica- 
tion  south  of  their  present  position.  Capt:  Ross  then 
traced  the  coast  fifty  or  sixty  miles  further  south. 

Several  journeys  were  also  made  by  Commander 
Ross,  both  inland  and  along  the  bays  and  inlets.  On 
the  1st  <  'f  May,  from  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  he  observed 
a  large  inlet,  which  seemed  to  lead  to  the  western  sea. 
In  order  to  satisfy  himself  on  this  point,  he  set  out 
again  on  the  17th  of  May,  with  provisions  for  three 
weeks,  eight  dogs,  and  three  companions.  Having 
crossed  the  great  middle  lake  of  the  isthmus,  he  reached 
his  former  station,  and  thence  traced  an  inlet  which 
was  found  to  be  the  mouth  of  a  river  named  by  them 
Garry.  From  the  high  hill,  they  observed  a  chain  of 
lakes  lending  almost  to  Thom's  Bay,  the  Victory's  sta- 
tion in  Felix  Harbor.  Proceeding  northwest  along  the 
coast,  thov  crossed  the  frozen  surface  of  the  strait  which 
has  since  been  nnmed  after  Sir  James  Ross,  and  came 
to  a  large  island  which  was  called  Matty  ;  keeping 
along  its  northern  shore,  and  passing  over  a  narrow 
strait,  which  they  named  after  Wellington,  they  found 
themselves  on  what  was  considered  to  be  the  main- 
land, but  which  the  more  recent  discoveries  of  Simpson 
have  shown  to  be  an  island,  and  which  now  bears  the 
name  of  King  William's  Land.  Still  journeying  on- 
ward, with  difiiculties  continually  increasing,  from 
heavy  toil  and  severe  privation,  the  dogs  became  ax- 
hausted  with  fatigue,  and  a  burden  rather  than  an  aid 
to  the  travelers. 


{A  ■ 


1  f 
'ri 


r:M 


!  >  I 


p-»v 


''   / 


iiiil 


160 


PFiOGKKaS   OB'   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


One  of  their  greatest  embarrassments  was,  how  to 
distinguish  between  land  and  sea.  "  When  all  is  ice, 
and  all  one  dazzling  mass  of  white  —  when  the  surface 
of  the  sea  itself  is  tossed  up  and  fixed  into  rocks,  while 
the  land  is,  on  the  contrary,  very  often  flat,  it  is  not 
always  so  easy  a  problem  as  it  might  seem  on  a  super- 
ficial view,  to  determine  a  face  which  appears  in  words 
to  be  extremely  simple."  Although  their  provisions 
began  to  fall  short,  and  the  party  were  nearly  worn 
out,  Commander  Ross  was  most  desirous  of  making  as 
much  western  discovery  as  possible  ;  therefore,  depos- 
iting every  thing  that  could  be  dispensed  with,  he 
pushed  on,  on  the  28th,  with  only  four  days'  provisions, 
and  reached  Cape  Felix,  the  most  northern  point  of 
thib  Island,  on  the  following  day.  The  con.s'c  here  cook 
tt  southwest  direction,  and  there  was  an  unbounded  ex- 
panse of  ocean  in  view  TLc  next  morning,  after  hav- 
ing traveled  twenty  miles  farther,  they  reached  a  point, 
v'hich  Koss  railed  Point  Victory,  situated  in  lat.  64* 
46'  19'',  long.  98°  32'  49",  whiletothemof-t  distant  one 
in  view,  estimated  to  be  in  long.  99°  17'  £8",  he  gave 
the  name  of  Cape  Franklin.  However  loath  to  turn 
back,  yet  prudence  compelled  them  to  do  so,  for  as 
they  had  only  ten  days'  short  allowance  of  food,  and 
more  than  200  miles  to  traverse,  there  could  not  be  a 
moment's  h(  itatior  in  adopting  this  step.  A  high 
cairn  of  stones  was  erected  before  leaving,  in  which 
wap  deposited  a  narrative  of  their  proceedings. 

The  party  endured  much  fatigue  and  suffering  on 
their  return  journey ;  of  the  eight  dogs  only  two  sur- 
vived, and  the  travelers  in  a  most  exhausted  state  ar- 
rived in  the  neighborhood  of  the  large  lakes  on  the  8th 
of  June,  where  they  fortunately  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of 
natives,  who  received  them  hospitably,  and  supplied 
theui  plentifully  with  fish,  so  that  after  a  day's  rest 
they  resumed  their  journey,  and  reached  the  ship  on 
the  13th.  Captain  Ross  in  the  meanwhile  had  made  a 
partial  survey  of  the  Isthmus,  and  discovered  another 
large  lake,  which  he  named  after  Lady  Melville 

After  eleven  months'  imprisonment  their  little  ship 


.    '^       ^ 


up 


CAPTAIN    KVKBS   »JKC()NI)    VOYAOK. 


161 


once  more  floated  bMoyant  on  the  waves,  having  been 
released  from  iier  ifv  barrier  on  the  ITth  of  September, 
but  for  the  oext  few  days  made  but  little  progress, 
being  beaten  about  among  the  icebergs,  and  driven 
hither  and  tl»7.ther  by  the  currents. 

A  change?!  in  the  weather,  however,  took  place,  and 
on  the  23d  they  were  once  more  frozen  in,  the  sea  in  a 
week  after  exhibiting  one  clear  and  unbroken  surface. 
All  October  was  passed  in  cutting  through  the  ice  into 
a  more  secure  locality,  and  another  dreary  winter  hav- 
ing set  in,  it  became  necessary  to  reduce  the  allowance 
of  provisions.  This  winter  was  one  of  unparalleled 
severity,  tl  e  thermometer  falling  92°  below  freezing 
point.  During  the  ensuing  spring  a  variety  of  explo- 
ratory journeys  were  carried  on,  and  in  one  of  these 
Commander  feoss  succeeded  in  planting  the  British 
flag  on  the  North  Magnetic  Pole.  The  position  which 
had  been  usually  assigned  to  this  interesting  spot  by 
the  learned  of  Europe,  was  lat.  70°  N.,  and  long.  98° 
30'  "W". ;  but  Ross,  by  careful  observations,  determined 
it  to  lie  in  lat.  70°  5'  17"  N.,  and  long.  96°  46'  45"  W., 
to  the  southward  of  Cape  Nikolai,  on  the  western  shore 
of  Boothia.  But  it  has  since  been  found  that  the  cen- 
ter of  magnetic  intensity  is  a  movable  point  revolving 
within  the  frigid  zone. 

"  The  place  of  the  observatory,"  Ross  remarks,  "  was 
as  near  to  the  magnetic  pole  as  the  limited  means  which 
I  possessed  enabled  me  to  determine.  The  amount  of 
the  dip,  as  indicated  by  my  dipping-needle,  was  89° 
69',  being  thus  within  one  minute  of  the  vertical ; 
while  the  proximity  at  least  of  this  pole,  if  not  its  ac- 
tual existence  where  we  stood,  was  further  confirmed 
by  the  action,  or  rather  by  the  total  inaction,  of  the 
several  horizontal  needles  then  in  my  possession." 

Parry's  observations  placed  it  eleven  minutes  distant 
only  irom  the  site  determined  by  Ross. 

"As  soon,"  continues  Ross,  "as  I  had  satisfied  my 
ovvU  mind  on  the  subject,  I  made  known  to  the  party 
this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  labors ;  and  it  was 
then  that,  amidst  mutual  congratulations,  we  fixed  the 


'■^ 


II 


11' 

»■; 


i 


\'m 


If  '4 


?ti 


'^     :• 


162 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVERT. 


British  flag  on  the  spot,  and  took  possepsion  of  the 
North  Magnetic  Pole  and  its  adjoining  territory  in  the 
name  of  Great  Britain  and  King  William  IV.  AVe 
had  abundance  of  materials  for  uiiilding  in  the  frag- 
ments of  limestone  that  covered  the  beach,  and  we 
therefore  erected  a  cairn  of  some  magnitude,  iiiuU'r 
which  we  buried  a  canister  containing  u  record  of  the 
interesting  fact,  only  regretting  that  we  had  not  the 
means  of  constructing  a  pyramid  of  more  importance, 
and  of  strength  sufficient  to  withstand  the  assaults  of 
time  and  of  the  Esquimaux.  Had  it  been  a  pyramid 
as  large  as  that  of  Cheops,  I  am  not  quite  sure  that  it 
would  have  done  more  than  satisfy  our  ambition  under 
the  feelings  of  that  exciting  day." 

On  the  28th  of  August,  1831,  they  contrived  to  warp 
the  Victory  out  into  the  open  sea,  and  made  sail  oa 
the  following  morning,  but  were  soon  beset  with  ice, 
as  on  the  former  occasion,  being  once  more  completely 
frozen  in  by  the  27th  of  September. 

On  the  previous  occasion  their  navigation  had  been 
three  miles ;  this  year  it  extended  to  four.  This  pro- 
tracted detention  in  the  ice  made  their  present  posi- 
tion one  of  great  danger  and  peril.  As  there  seemed 
no  prospect  of  extracting  their  vessel,  the  resolution 
was  come  to  of  abandoning  her,  and  making  the  best 
of  their  way  up  the  inlet  to  Fury  Beach,  there  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  boats,  provisions,  and  stores,  which 
would  assist  them  in  reaching  Davis'  Straits,  where 
they  might  expect  to  fall  in  with  one  of  the  whale 
ships. 

On  the  23d  of  April,  1832,  having  collected  all  that 
was  useful  and  necessary,  the  expedition  set  out,  drag- 
ging their  provisions  and  boats  over  a  vast  expanse  of 
rugged  ice.  "The  loads  being  too  heavy  to  be  car- 
ried at  once,  made  it  necessary  to  go  backward  and 
forward  twice,  and  even  oftener,  the  same  day.  They 
had  to  encounter  dreadful  tempests  of  snow  and  drift, 
and  to  make  several  circuits  in  order  to  avoid  impas- 
sable barriers.  The  general  result  was,  that  by  the 
12th  of  May  they  had  traveled  329  miles  to  gain  thirty 


i 


,1'- 


s- 


OAPJAIN    ROSa  8   6KCOMD   VOYAGE. 


163 


in  a  direct  line,  having  in  this  labor  expended  a 
month."  After  this  preliminary  movement,  thev  hade 
a  farewell  to  their  little  vessel,  nailing  her  colorH  to 
the  mast.  Capt.  Ross  describes  himself  as  deeply  af- 
fected;  this  being  the  first  vessel  he  had  been  (tbliged 
to  abandon  of  thirty-six  in  which  he  had  served  dur- 
ing the  course  of  forty-two  years.  On  the  9th  of  June, 
Commander  Ross  and  two  others,  with  a  fortnight's 
provisions,  left  the  main  body,  who  were  more  heav- 
ily loaded,  to  ascertain  the  state  of  the  boats  and  sup- 
plies at  Fury  Beach.  Returning  they  met  their  com- 
rades on  the  25th  of  June,  'reporting  that  they  had 
found  three  of  the  boats  washed  away,  but  enough  still 
left  for  their  purpose,  and  all  the  provisions  were  in 
good  condition.  The  remainder  of  the  journey  was 
accomplished  by  the  whole  party  in  a  week,  and  on 
tb?  Ist  of  July  they  reared  a  canvas  mansion,  to 
whuh  they  gave  the  name  of  Somerset  House,  and 
enjoyed  a  hearty  meal. 

By  the  1st  of  August  the  boats  were  rendered  ser- 
viceable, and  a  considerable  extent  of  open  sea  being 
visible,  they  set  out,  and  after  much  buneting  among 
the  ice  in  their  frail  shallops,  reached  the  mouth  of 
the  inlet  by  the  end  of  August.  After  several  fruit- 
less attempts  to  run  along  Barrow's  Strait,  the  obstruc- 
tions of  the  ice  obliged  them  to  haul  the  boats  on  shore, 
and  pitch  their  tents.  Barrow's  Strait  was  found,  from 
repeated  surveys,  to  be  one  impenetrable  mass  of  ice. 
After  lingering  here  till  the  third  week  in  September, 
it  was  unanimously  agreed  that  their  only  resource 
was  to  fall  back  on  the  stores  at  Fury  Beach,  and  there 
ppend  their  fourth  winter.  Thev  weie  onlv  able  to  ijet 
half  the  distance  in  the  boats,  which  were  hauled  on 
shore  in  Batty  Bay  on  the  24th  of  September,  and 
the  rest  of  their  journey  continued  on  foot,  tlie  pro- 
visions being  dragged  on  sledges.  On  the  7th  of  Oc- 
tober they  once  more  reached  their  home  at  the  scene 
of  the  wreck.  They  now  managed  to  shelter  their 
canvas  tent  by  a  wall  of  snow,  and  setting  up  an  ex- 
tra stove,  made  themselves  tolerablv  comfortable  until 

G* 


V  i 

.1:; 


is; 


'-•< 


1 . 1 


104 


PB00RI<»8   OF   ARCTIC  DI8C0VKEY. 


the  increasinf^  severity  of  the  winter,  and  rigor  of 
the  cold,  lidded  to  the  tempestuous  weather,  made 
them  perfect  prisoners,  and  sorely  tried  their  patience. 
Scurvy  now  bet^an  to  attack  several  of  the  party,  and 
on  the  IGth  of  February,  1833,  Thomas,  the  carpenter, 
fell  a  victim  to  it,  and  two  others  died.  "Their  situ- 
ation was  becoming  truly  awful,  since,  if  they  were 
not  liberated  in  the  ensuing  summer,  little  prospect 
appeared  of  their  surviving  another  year.  It  waa 
necessary  to  make  a  reduction  in  the  allowance  of 
preserved  meats;  bread  was  somewhat  deficient,  and 
the  stock  of  wine  and  ^irits  was  entirely  exhausted. 
However,  as  they  caught  a  few  foxes,  which  were  con- 
sidered a  delicacy,  and  there  was  plenty  of  flour, 
sugar,  soups,  and  vegetables,  a  diet  could  be  easily 
arranged  sufficient  to  support  the  party." 

While  the  ice  remained  lirm,  advantage  was  taken 
of  the  spring  to  carry  forward  a  stock  of  provisions  to 
Batty  Bay,  and  this,  though  only  thirty -two  miles,  oc- 
cupied them  a  whole  month,  owing  to  their  reduced 
numbers  from  sickness  and  heavy  loads,  with  the  jour- 
neyings  to  and  fro,  having  to  go  over  the  ground  eight 
times. 

On  the  8th  of  July  they  finally  abandoned  this  de- 

Sot,  and  encamped  on  the  12th  at  their  boat  station  in 
latty  Bay,  where  the  aspect  of  the  sea  was  watched 
with  intense  anxiety  for  more  than  a  month.  On  the 
15th  of  August,  taking  advantage  of  a  lane  of  water 
which  led  to  the  northward,  the  party  embarked,  and 
on  the  following  morning  had  got  as  far  as  the  turn- 
ing point  of  their  last  year's  expedition.  Making  their 
way  slowly  among  the  masses  of  ice  with  which  the 
inlet  was  encumbered,  on  the  17th  they  found  the  wide 
expanse  of  Barrow's  Strait  open  before  them,  and  nav- 
iijable,  and  reached  to  within  twelve  miles  of  Cape 
York.  Pushing  on  with  renewed  spirits,  alternately 
rowing  and  sailing,  on  the  night  of  the  25th  they 
rested  in  a  good  harbor  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Navy 
Board  Inlet.  At  four  on  the  following  morning  they 
were  roused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  joyful  intelli- 


CAITAIN    UUbHb   BIlCOMD    VOYAGE. 


105 


^oncc  of  ft  fillip  hvlntr  in  sight,  and  never  did  men 
more  liurricdly  and  energetically  set  out;  but  the  ele- 
ments conspiring  against  tlieni,  after  being  battled  by 
calms  and  currents,  they  had  the  misery  to  see  the 
ship  leave  them  with  a  fair  breeze,  and  found  it  im- 
possible to  overtake  her,  or  make  themselves  seen.  A 
few  hours  later,  however,  their  despair  was  lelieved  by 
the  sight  of  another  vessel  which  was  lying  to  in  a  calm. 
By  dint  of  hard  rowing  they  were  this  time  more  for 
tunate,  and  soon  came  up  with  her ;  she  proved  to  be 
the  Isabella,  of  Hull,  the  very  ship  in  which  lioss  had 
made  his  first  voyage  to  these  seas.  Capt.  Koss  was 
told  circumstantially  of  his  own  death,  &c.,  two  years 
previously,  and  he  had  some  difficulty  in  convincing 
them  that  it  was  really  he  and  his  party  who  now  stood 
before  them.  So  great  was  the  joy  with  which  they 
were  received,  that  the  Isabella  manned  her  yards, 
and  her  former  commander  and  his  gallant  band  of 
adventurers  were  saluted  with  three  hearty  cheers. 
The  scene  on  board  can  scarcely  be  described ;  each 
of  the  crew  vied  with  the  other  in  assisting  and  com- 
forting the  party,  and  it  cannot  better  be  told  than  in 
Ross's  own  words :  — 

"  The  ludicrous  soon  took  place  of  all  other  feelings  ; 
in  such  a  crowd,  and  such  confusion,  all  serious  thought 
was  impossible,  while  the  new  buoyancy  of  our  spirits 
made  us  abundantly  willing  to  be  amused  by  the  scene 
which  now  opened.  Every  man  was  hungry,  and  was 
to  be  fed  ;  all  were  ragged,  and  were  to  be  clothed  ; 
there  was  not  one  to  whom  washing  was  not  indispen- 
sable, nor  one  whom  his  beard  did  not  deprive  of  all 
human  semblance.  All,  every  thing  too,  was  to  be  done 
at  once  :  it  was  washing,  shaving,  dressing,  eating,  all 
intermingled  ;  it  was  all  the  materials  of  each  jumbled 
together,  while  in  the  midst  of  all  there  were  intermina- 
ble  questions  to  be  asked  and  answered  on  both  sides  ; 
the  adventures  of  the  Victory,  o^r  own  escapes,  the 
politics  of  England,  and  the  news  which  was  now  four 
years  old. 

" But  all  subsided  into  peace  at  last.    The  sick  weie 


a?" 


*m.. 


til 


^ 


i 


I  M 


'i ' 


m 


166 


PROORESS   OF  ARCTTIC   DISCOVERT. 


accommodated,  the  seamen  disposed  of,  and  all  waa 
done  for  us  which  care  and  kindness  could  perform. 

"  Night  at  lengih  brought  qviiet  and  serious  thoughts, 
and  1  trust  there  was  not  a  man  among  us  who  did  not 
then  express,  where  it  was  due,  his  gratitude  for  that 
interposition  wliich  had  raised  us  aU  from  a  despair 
which  none  could  now  forget,  and  had  brought  us  fruiii 
the  very  borders  of  a  most  distant  grave,  to  life  and 
friends  and  civilization.  Long  accustomed,  however, 
to  a  cold  bed  on  the  hard  snow  or  the  bare  rock,  few 
could  sleep  amid  the  comfort  of  our  new  accommoda- 
tions. I  was  myself  compelled  to  leave  the  bed  wdiich 
had  been  kindly  assigned  me,  and  take  my  abode  in  a 
chair  for  the  night,  nor  did  it  fare  much  better  with  the 
rest.  It  was  for  time  to  reconcile  us  to  this  sudden  and 
violent  change,  to  break  through  wdiat  had  become 
habit,  and  inure  us  once  more  to  the  usages  of  our 
former  days." 

The  Ist\bella  remained  some  time  longer  to  prosecute 
the  fishery,  and  lett  Davis'  Strait  on  her  homeward 
passage  on  the  30th  September.  On  the  12th  of  Oc- 
tober they  made  the  Orkney  Islands,  and  arrived  at 
Hull  on  the  18th.  The  bold  explorers,  who  had  long 
been  given  up  as  lost,  were  looked  upon  as  men  risen 
from  the  grave,  and  met  and  escorted  by  crowds  of 
sympathizers.  A  public  entertainment  was  given  to 
tiiem  by  the  townspeople,  at  which  the  freedom  of  the 
town  was  presented  to  Captain  Koss.,  and  next  day  he 
left  for  London,  to  report  to  the  Admiralty,  and  was 
honored  by  a  presentation  to  the  king  at  Windsor. 

The  Admiralty  liberally  rewarded  all  the  parties, 
except  indeed  Captain  Ross.  Commander  J.  C.  Ross 
was  appointed  to  the  guardship  at  Portsmouth  to  com- 
plete his  period  of  service,  and  then  received  his  post 
rank.  Mr.  Thorn^  the  purser,  Mr.  M'Diarmid,  the  sur- 
geon, and  the  petty  officers,  were  appointed  to  good 
situations  in  the  navy.  The  seamen  received  the  usual 
double  pay  r^iven  to  arciio  explorers,  up  to  the  time 
of  leaving  their  ship,  and  full  pay  from  that  date  until 
their  arrival  in  England. 


iiii: 


CAPTAIN   K088  8  8EC0ND  VOYAGE. 


167 


t 


Lies, 
loss 
!Oin- 

pOflt 

siir- 
:ood 
iiial 
imc 
iitil 


A  committee  of  the  House  of  Commons  took  up  the 
case  of  Captain  Ross  early  in  the  session  of  1834,  and 
ou  their  recommendation  5,000/. was  granted  him  as  a 
remuneration  for  his  pecuniary  outlay  and  privations. 

A  baronetcy,  on  the  recommendation  of  tlie  suine 
committee,  was  also  conferred  by  his  Majesty  William 
IV.  on  Mr.  Felix  Booth. 

In  looking  back  on  the  results  of  this  voyage,  no  im- 
partial inquirer  can  deny  to  Captain  Ross  the  merit  of 
having  eftected  much  good  by  tracing  and  surveying 
the  wliole  of  the  long  western  coast  of  Regent  Inlet, 
proving  Boothia  to  be  a  peninsula,  and  setting  at  rest 
the  probability  of  an}*^  navigable  outlet  being  discovered 
from  this  inlet  to  the  Polar  Sea.  The  lakes,  rivers  and 
islands  which  were  examined,  proved  with  suthcient 
accuracy  the  correctness  of  the  information  furnished  to 
Parry  by  tne  Esquimaux. 

To  Commander  James  Ross  is  due  the  credit  of 
resolving  many  important  scientific  questions,  such  as 
the  comoination  of  light  with  magnetism,  fixing  the 
exact  position  of  the  magnetic  pole.  He  v/as  also  the 
only  person  in  the  expedition  competent  to  make  obser- 
vations in  geology,  natural  history  and  botany.  Out 
of  about  700  miles  of  new  land  explored.  Commander 
Ross,  in  the  expeditions  which  he  planned  and  con- 
ducted, discovered  nearly  500.  He  had,  up  to  this 
time,  passed  fourteen  summers  and  eight  winters  in 
these  seas. 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  "  Narrative  of  Yoy- 
ftges  of  Discovery  and  Research,^'  p.  518,  in  opposition 
to  Ross's  opinion,  asserted  that  Boothia  was  not  joined 
to  the  continent,  but  that  they  were  "completely  divi- 
ded by  a  navigable  strait,  ten  miles  wide  and  upward, 
leading  past  Back's  Estuary,  and  into  the  Gulf  (of 
Boothia,)  of  which  the  proper  name  is  Akkolee,  not 
Boothia  ;  and  moreover,  tnat  the  two  seas  flow  as  freely 
into  each  other  as  Lancaster  Sound  does  into  the  Polar 
8ea."  This  assumption  has  since  been  shown  to  be 
incorrect.  Capt.  Ross  asserts  there  is  a  difierence  in 
the  level  of  these  two  seas. 


•—■I 


# 


111! 


!'i- 


! 


'^^^f 


y  i^' 


168 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOTERT. 


I!  Il 


iiH:, 


I  may  here  fitly  take  a  review  of  Captain  R«,48'8  ser- 
vicer. He  entered  the  navy  in  1790,  served  fifteen  years 
as  a  midshipman,  seven  as  a  lieutenant,  and  seven  as  a 
commander,  and  was  posted  on  the  7th  of  December, 
1818,  and  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  first  arctic 
expedition  of  this  century.  On  his  return  he  received 
many  marks  of  favor  from  continental  sovereigns,  was 
knighted  and  made  a  Companion  of  the  Bath  on  tlio 
24th  of  December,  1834 ;  made  a  Commander  of  the 
Sword  of  Sweden,  a  Knight  of  the  Second  Class  of  St 
Anne  of  Prussia  (in  diamonds,)  Second  Cla«;s  of  the 
Legion  of  Honor,  and  of  the  Red  Eagle  of  Prussia,  and 
of  Leopold  of  Belgium.  Received  the  royal  premiuii 
from  tho  Geographical  Society  of  London,  in  1833,  fo 
his  discoveries  in  the  arctic  regions;  also  gold  medal* 
from  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  and  the  Royjvi 
Societies  of  Sweden,  Austria,  and  Denmark.  The  fre^ 
dom  of  the  cities  of  London,  Liverpool,  and  Bristo)  *, 
six  gold  snuff-boxes  from  Russia,  Holland,  Denmark 
Austria,  London  and  Baden ;  a  sword  valued  at  lOO 
guineas  from  the  Patriotic  Fund,  for  his  sufferings,  hav 
mg  been  wounded  thirteen  times  in  three  different 
actions  during  the  war  ;  and  one  of  the  value  of  200/. 
from  the  King  of  Sweden,  for  service  in  the  Baltic  and 
the  White  Sea.  On  the  8th  of  March,  1839,  he  was 
appointed  to  the  lucrative  post  of  British  consul  at 
Stockholm,  which  he  held  for  six  years. 

Captain  Back's  Land  Journi:y,  1833-35. 

Four  years  having  elapsed  without  any  tidings  being 
received  of  Capt.  Ross  and  his  crew,  it  began  to  bo 
generally  feared  in  England  that  they  had  been  added 
to  the  number  of  former  sufferers,  in  the  prosecution  of 
their  arduous  undertaking. 

Dr.  Richardson,  who  nad  himself  undergone  such 
frightful  perils  in  the  arctic  regions  with  Franklin,  was 
the  first  to  call  public  attention  to  the  subject,  in  a  letter 
to  the  Geographical  Society,  in  which  he  suggested  a 
project  for  relieving  them,  if  still  alive  and  to  be  found ; 


CAPTAIN  BACK  S  LAND  JOURNEY. 


169 


at 


and  Ht  the  bame  time  volunteered  his  services  to  the 
Colonial  Secretary  of  the  day,  to  conduct  an  exploring 


""Si: 


Although  the  expedition  of  Capt.  Ross  was  Tiot  under- 
taken under  the  auspices  of  government,  it  became  a 
national  concern  to  ascertain  the  ultimate  fate  of  it,  and 
to  make  some  eftbrt  for  the  relief  of  the  party,  whose 
h'jme  at  that  time  might  be  the  boisterous  sea,  or  whose 
shelter  the  snow  hut  or  the  floating  iceberg.  Dr.  Rich- 
irdson  proposed  to  proceed  from  Hudson's  Bay,  in  a 
northwest  direction  to  Coronation  Gulf,  where  he  was 
to  commence  his  search  in  an  easterly  direction.  Pass- 
ing to  the  north,  along  the  eastern  side  of  this  gulf,  he 
would  arrive  at  Point  Turnagain,  the  eastern  point  of 
his  own  former  discovery.  Having  accomplished  this, 
he  would  continue  his  search  toward  the  eastward  until 
he  reached  Melville  Island,  thus  perfecting  geographical 
discovery  in  that  quarter,  and  a  continued  coast  line 
might  be  laid  down  from  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait  to 
Beechey  Point,  leaving  only  the  small  space  between 
Franklin's  discovery  and  that  of  the  Blossom  unexplored. 
The  proposal  was  favorably  received  ;  but  owing  to  the 
political  state  of  the  country  at  the  time,  the  oner  was 
not  accepted. 

A  meeting  was  held  in  Kovember,  1832,  at  the  rooms 
of  the  Horticultural  Society,  in  Regent  street,  to  obtain 
funds,  and  arrange  for  fitting  out  a  private  relief  expe- 
dition, as  the  Admiralty  and  Government  were  unablo 
to  do  this  ofiicially,  in  consequence  of  Captain  Ross's 
expedition  not  being  a  public  one.  Sir  George  Cock- 
hurn  took  the  chair,  and  justly  observed  that  those  offi- 
cers who  devoted  their  time  to  the  service  of  science, 
and  braved  in  its  pursuit  the  dangers  of  unknown  and 
imgenial  climates,  demanded  the  sympathy  and  assist- 
»  ,ce  of  all.  Great  Britain  had  taken  the  lead  in  geo- 
graphical discovery,  and  there  was  not  one  in  this  coun- 
try who  did  not  feel  pride  and  honor  in  the  fame  she 
had  attained  by  the  expeditions  of  Parry  and  Franklin  ; 
hut  if  we  wished  to  create  future  Parrvs  and  Franklins, 
if  we  wished  to  encourage  British  enterprise  and  com 


«^,./ 


'  I  i 


iro 


PBOOBESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


age,  we  must  prove  that  the  officer  who  is  out  of  eight 
of  his  countryuien  is  not  forgotten ;  that  there  is  con- 
6  deration  for  his  sufferings,  and  appreciation  of  his 
spirit.  This  reflection  will  cheer  him  in  the  hour  of 
trial,  and  will  permit  him,  when  surrounded  by  dangers 
and  privations,  to  indulge  in  hope,  the  greatest  blessing 
of  man.  Captain  George  Back,  R.  rT.,  who  was  in 
Italy  when  the  subject  was  first  mooted,  hastened  to 
England,  and  offered  to  lead  the  party,  and  his  services 
were  accepted.  A  subscription  was  entered  into,  to 
defray  the  necessary  expenses,  and  upward  of  6000/. 
was  raised  ;  of  this  sum,  at  the  recommendation  of  Lord 
Goderich,  the  then  Secretary  of  State,  the  Treasury  con- 
tributed 20001. 

After  an  interview  with  the  king  at  Brighton,  to  which 
he  was  specially  summoned,  Captai"  Back  made  prepa- 
rations for  his  journey,  and  laid  down  his  plan  of  opera- 
tions. In  order  to  facilitate  his  views,  and  give  hiin 
greater  authority  over  his  men,  special  instructions  and 
authority  were  issued  by  the  Colonial  Ofhce,  and  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  granted  him  a  commission  in 
their  service,  and  placed  every  assistance  at  his  disposal 
throughout  their  territory  in  iN'orth  America. 

Every  thing  being  definitely  arranged,  Capt.  Back, 
accompanied  oy  Dr.  Kichard  King  as  surgeon  and  natu- 
ralist, with  three  men  who  had  been  on  the  expedition 
with  Franklin,  left  Liverpool  on  the  17th  of  February. 
1833,  in  one  of  the  New  York  packet  ships,  and  arrived 
in  America  after  a  stormy  passage  of  thirty-five  days. 
He  proceeded  on  to  Montreal,  where  he  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  preventing  two  of  the  men  from  leaving  him, 
as  their  hearts  began  to  fail  them  at  the  prospect  of 
the  severe  journey  with  its  attendant  difficulties,  which 
they  had  to  encounter. 

Four  volunteers  from  the  Royal  Artillery  corps  here 
joined  him,  and  some  voyageurs  having  been  engaged, 
the  party  left,  in  two  canoes,  on  the  25th  of  April.  Two 
of  his  party  deserted  from  him  in  the  Ottawa  river. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  having  obtained  his  comple- 
ment of  men,  he  may  be  said  to  have  commenced  his 


u 


CAPTAIN    back's    LAND   JOURXEY. 


171 


journey.  They  siiiFered  dreadfully  from  myriads  of 
6:;nd-tlies  and  musquitoes,  being  so  disfigured  by  their 
attacks  that  their  features  could  scarcely  be  recognized. 
Horse-flies,  appro2:)riately  styled  "  bull-dogs,"  were  an- 
other dreadful  pest,  which  pertinaciously  gorged  them- 
selves, like  the  leech,  until  they  seemed  ready  to  burst. 

"  It  is  in  vain  to  attempt"  to  defend  yourself  against 
these  puny  bloodsuckers  ;  though  you  crush  thousands 
of  them,  tens  of  thousands  arise  to  avenge  the  death  of 
their  companions,  and  you  very  soon  discover  that  the 
conflict  which  you  are  waging  is  one  in  which  you  are 
sure  to  be  defeated.  So  great  at  last  are  the  pains  and 
fatigue  in  buffeting  away  this  attacking  force,  that  in 
despair  you  throw  yourself,  half  sufltbcated,  in  a  blanket, 
with  your  face  upon  the  ground,  and  snatch  a  few  min- 
utes of  sleepless  rest."  Oapt.  Back  adds  that  the  vig- 
orous and  unintermitting  assaults  of  these  tormenting 
pests  conveyed  the  moral  lesson  of  man's  helplessness, 
since,  with  all  our  boasted  strength,  we  are  unable  to 
repel  these  feeble  atoms  of  creation.  "  How,"  he  says, 
"  can  I  possibly  give  an  idea  of  the  torment  we  endured 
from  the  sand-flies?  As  we  divided  into  the  confined 
and  suftbcating  chasms,  or  waded  through  the  close 
swamps,  they  rose  in  clouds,  actually  darkening  the  air ; 
to  see  or  to  s])eak  was  equally  difficult,  for  they  rushed 
at  every  undefended  part,  and  fixed  their  poisonous 
fangs  in  an  instant.  Our  faces  streamed  with  blood,  as 
if  leeches  had  been  applied,  and  there  was  a  burning 
and  irritating  pain,  followed  by  immediate  inflamma- 
tion, and  producing  giddiness,  which  almost  drove  us 
mad,  and  caused  us  to  moan  with  pain  and  agony. 

At  the  Pine  portage.  Captain  Back  engaged  the 
Services  of  A.  R.  McLeod,  in  the  employ  of  tne  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  who  had  been  fixed  upon  by 
Governor  Simpson,  to  aid  the  expedition.  He  was 
accompanied  by  his  wife,  three  children,  and  a  ser- 
vant; and  had  just  returned  from  the  Mackenzie  River, 
with  a  large  cargo  of  furs.  The  whole  family  were  at- 
tached to  the  party,  and  after  some  detentions  of  a 
general  and  unimportant  character  they  arrived  at 
11 


•-•< 


•  ii 


•     f  I 


1 


172 


PROOBE8S  OF  A^IiCTilO   DISCOVERY. 


im 


■* 


l! 


if 


Si 
I 
I 


Fort  Chipewyan  on  the  20th  of  July.  Fort  Resoui 
tion,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  was  reached  on  the  8tli  of 
August. 

The  odd  assemblage  of  goods  and  voyageurs  in  their 
encampment  are  thus  graphically  described  by  the 
traveler,  as  he  glanced  around  him. 

"  At  my  feet  was  a  rolled  bundle  in  oil-cloth,  con- 
taining some  three  blankets,  called  a  bed ;  near  it  a 
piece  of  dried  buffalo,  fancifully  ornamented  with  long 
blfick  hairs,  v^hich  no  art,  alaa,  can  prevent  from  insin- 
uating themselves  between  the  teeth,  as  you  laboriously 
masticate  thei  tough,  hard  flesh;  then  a  tolerably  clean 
napkin,  spread  by  way  of  table-cloth,  on  a  red  piece  of 
canvas,  and  iBupporting  a  tea-pot,  some  biscuits,  and  a 
salt-cellar  ;  near  this  a  tin  plate,  close  by  a  square  kind 
of  box  or  safe  of  the  same  material,  rich  with  a  pale, 
greasy  hair,  the  produce  of  the  colony  at  Red  Kiver ; 
and  the  last,  the  far-renowned  ^cm?nica/i,  unquestion- 
ably the  best  food  of  the  country  for  expeditions  such 
as  ours.  Behind  me  were  two  boxes  containing  astro- 
nomical instruments,  and  a  sextant  lying  on  the  ground, 
while  the  diflferent  corners  of  the  tent  were  occupied 
by  a  washing  apparatus,  a  gun,  an  Indian  shot-ponch, 
bags,  basins,  and  an  unhappy-looking  japanned  pot, 
whose  melancholy  bumps  and  hollows  seemed  to  re- 
proach me  for  many  a  bruise  endured  upon  the  rocks 
and  portages  between  Montreal  and  Lake  Winnipeck. 
Nor  were  my  crew  less  motley  than  the  furniture  of 
the  tent.  It  consisted  of  an  Englishman,  a  man  from 
Stornaway,  two  Canadians,  two  Metifs  or  half-breeds, 
and  three  Iroquois  Indians.  Babel  could  not  have  pro- 
duced a  worse  confusion  of  unharmonious  sounds  than 
was  the  conversation  they  kept  up." 

Having  obtained  at  Fort  Resolution  all  possible  in- 
formation, from  the  Indians  and  others,  relative  to  the 
course  of  the  northern  rivers  of  which  he  was  in  search, 
he  divided  his  crew  into  two  parties,  five  of  whom  were 
left  IS  an  escort  for  M**.  McLeod,  and  four  were  to  ac- 
company himself  in  search  of  the  Great  Fish  River, 
since  approprfately  named  after  Back  himself. 


"^r 


CAl'TAIN  IJACaC  S  LAND  JOURNET. 


173 


On  the  19th  of  August  they  began  the  ascent  of  the 
Hoar  Frost  River,  whose  course  was  a  series  of  the 
most  fearful  cascades  and   rapids.    The  woods   hero 
were  so  thick  as  to  render  them  almost  impervious 
consisting  chiefly  of  stunted  firs,  which  occasioned  in 
finite  trouble  to  the  party  to  force  their  way  through 
added  to  which,  they  had  to  clamber  over  fallen  trees 
through  rivulets,  and  over  bogs  and  swamps,  until  tho 
difficulties  appeared   so  appalling,  9'\   almost  to   dis- 
hearten the  party  from  prosecuting  their  journey.    Tho 
heart  of  Captain  Back  was,  however,  of  too  stern  a  cast 
to  be  dispirited  by  difficulties,  at  which  less  persever 
'.ng  explorers  would   have  turned  away  discomfited, 
and  cheering  on  his  men,  like  a  bold  and  gallant  leader, 
the  first  in  the  advance  of  danger,  they  arrived  at  length 
in  an  open  space,  where  they  rested  for  awhile  to  recruit 
their  exhausted  strength.    The  place  was,  indeed,  one 
of  barrenness  and  desolation ;  crag  was  piled  upon  crag 
to  the  height  of  2000  feet  from  tlie  base,  aid  tho  course 
of  the  river  here,  in  a  state  of  contraction,  was  marked 
by  an  uninterrupted  line  of  foam. 

However  great  tho  beauty  of  the  scenery  may  be, 
and  however  resolute  may  be  the  will,  severe  toil  will 
at  length  relax  the  spirits,  and  bring  a  kind  of  despon- 
dency upon  a  heart  naturally  bold  and  undaunted.  This 
was  found  particularly  the  case  now  with  the  intei'pre- 
ter,  who  became  a  dead  weight  upon  the  party.  Rapid 
now  succeeded  rapid ;  scarcely  had  they  surmounted 
one  fall  than  another  presented  itself,  rising  like  an  am- 
phitlieater  before  them  to  the  height  of  fifty  feet.  They, 
however,  gained  at  length  the  ascent  of  this  turbulent 
and  unfriendly  river,  the  romantic  beauty  and  wild 
scenery  of  which  were  strikingly  grand,  and  after  pass 
ing  successively  a  series  of  portages,  rapids,  falls,  lakes, 
and  rivers,  on  the  27th  Back  observed  from  the  summit 
of  a  high  hill  a  very  large  lake  full  of  deep  bays  and 
islands,  and  which  has  been  nanied  Aylmer  Lake,  after 
the  Governor-General  of  Canada  at  that  time.  The 
boat  was  sent  out  with  three  men  to  search  for  the  lake, 
or  outlet  of  the  river,  which  they  discovered  on  the  eec- 


ZX) 

KZ 


t:: 


.\  < 


ir4 


PROORF-SS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOS' Ell Y. 


!i 


ox\(\  day,  and  Captain  Back  himself,  during  tlieir  ah- 
senco,  also  accidentally  discovered  its  source  in  the 
Sand  Hill  Lake,  not  far  from  his  encampment.  Not 
prouder  was  Bruce  when  he  stood  on  the  green  sod 
which  covers  the  source  of  the  Nile,  than  was  Captain 
Back  when  he  found  that  he  was  standing  at  the  source 
of  a  river,  the  existence  of  which  was  known,  but  the 
course  of  which  was  a  problem,  no  traveler  had  yet  ven- 
tured to  solve.  Yielcling  to  that  pleasurable  emotion 
which  discoverers,  in  the  first  bound  of  their  transport, 
may  be  pardoned  for  indulging.  Back  tells  us  he  threw 
himself  down  on  the  bank  and  drank  a  hearty  draught 
of  the  limv'd  water. 

"For  this  occasion,"  ho  addfc).  "I  hpd  reserved  a  lit- 
tle grog,  and  need  hardly  s:.j  v  it  :*  \  j;at  cheerfulness 
it  w%T,s  sliared  among  the  crew,  wiiose  v  ^  ^ome  tidings 
had  verified  the  notion  of  Dr.  Richardson  and  myself, 
and  thus  placed  beyond  doubt  the  existence  of  the 
Thlew-ee-choh,  or  Great  Fish  River. 

On  the  30th  of  August,  they  began  to  move  toward 
the  river,  but  on  reaching  Musk-ox  Lake,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  stand  the  force  of  the  rapids  in  their  frail 
canoe,  and  as  winter  was  approaching,  their  return  to 
the  rendezvous  on  Slave  Lake  was  determined  on. 

At  Clinton  Colden  Lake,  some  Indians  visited  them 
from  the  Chief  Akaitcho,  who,  it  will  be  remembered, 
was  the  guide  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  Two  of  these  In- 
dians remembered  Captain  Back,  one  having  accom- 
panied him  to  the  Coppermine  River,  on  Franklin's 
first  expedition. 

At  the  Cat  or  Artillery  Lake,  they  had  to  abandon 
their  canoe,  and  perform  the  rest  of  the  journey  on  foot 
over  precipitous  rocks,  through  frightful  gorges  and  ra- 
vines, heaped  with  masses  of  granite,  and  along  narrow 
ledges,  where  a  false  step  womd  have  been  fatal. 

At  Fort  Reliance,  the  party  found  Mr.  McLeod  had, 
di^ring  their  absence,  erected  the  frame-work  of  a  com- 
fortable residence  for  them,  and  all  hands  set  to  work 
to  complete  it.  After  many  obstacles  and  difficulties, 
it  was  tinished. 


CAll'AIN    BACK'S    LAND   JOURNEY. 


17i 


Dr.  Kinff  joined  them  on  the  IGth  of  September,  with 
fwo  lacU'H  Diiteaux. 

On  tlie  5th  of  Novemher,  they  exchanged  tlieir  cold 
tents  for  the  nev7  house,  whicli  was  fifty  feet  long  hy 
thirty  broad,  and  contained  four  rooms,  besides  a  spa- 
cious hall  ill  the  center,  for  tho  reception  and  accom- 
modation Ot  ae  Indians,  to  which  a  sort  of  rude  kitchen 
was  attachti . 

As  the  '^  nter  advanced,  bands  of  starving  Indians 
continued  t-  arri\ e,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some  re- 
lift!  as  Htthj  or  nothing  wa"  to  be  procured  by  hunting. 
They  would  stand  around  while  the  men  were  taking 
their  meals,  watching  every  mouthful  with  the  most 
longing,  imploring  look,  but  yet  never  uttered  a  com- 
plaint. 

At  other  times  they  would,  seated  round  the  fire,  oc- 
cupy themselves  in  roasting  and  devouring  small  bits 
of  their  reindeer  garments,  which,  even  when  entire, 
afforded  them  a  very  insutiicient  protection  against  a 
temperature  of  102°  below  freezing  point. 

The  sufferings  of  the  poor  Indians  at  this  period  are 
described  .s  frightful.  "  Famine  with  her  gaunt  and 
bony  arm,'^'  says  Back,  "  pursued  them  at  every  turn, 
withered  their  energies,  and  strewed  them  lifeless  on 
the  cold  bosom  of  the  snow."  It  was  impossible  to 
afford  relief  out  of  their  scanty  store  to  all,  but  even 
small  portions  of  the  mouldy  pemmican  intended  for 
the  dogs,  unpalatable  as  it  was,  was  gladly  received, 
and  saved  many  from  perishing.  "  Often,"  adds  Back, 
"  did  I  share  my  own  plate  with  the  children  whose 
helpless  state  and  piteous  cries  were  peculiarly  distress- 
ing ;  compassion  for  the  full-grown  may,  or  may  not, 
be  felt,  but  that  heart  must  be  cased  in  steel  which  is 
insensible  to  the  cry  of  a  child  for  food." 

At  this  critical  juncture,  Akaitcho  made  his  appear- 
ance with  an  opportune  supply  of  a  little  meat,  which 
in  some  measure  enabled  Captain  Back  to  relieve  the 
sufferers  around  him,  many  of  whom,  to  his  gieat  de- 
light, went  away  with  Akaitcho.  The  stock  of  meat 
was  soon  exhausted,  and  thoy  hud  to  open  their  pern- 


hi 


I   ',;• 


I 


I 


176 


PROOHESS  OF   AROnO  DISCOVERT. 


m  ['■ 


mican.  The  officers  contented  themselves  with  the 
ebort  supply  of  half  a  pound  a  day,  but  the  laboring 
men  could  not  do  with  less  than  a  pound  and  three- 
quarters.  The  cold  now  set  in  with  an  inteuKity  which 
Ca])tain  Back  had  never  before  experienced, —  the  ther- 
mometer, on  tlie  17th  of  Januarv,  being  70°  below  zero. 
"  Such  indeed,  (he  says,)  was  the  abstraction  of  heat, 
tluit  with  eight  large  logs  of  dry  wood  on  the  iire,  I 
could  not  get  the  thermometer  higher  than  12°  below 
zero.  Ink  and  paint  froze.  The  sextant  cases  and 
boxes  of  seasoned  wood,  principally  fir,  all  split.  The 
skin  of  the  hands  became  dry,  cracked  and  opened 
into  unsightly  and  smarting  gashes,  which  we  were 
obliged  to  anoint  with  grease.  On  one  occasion,  atler 
washing  my  face  within  three  feet  of  the  fire,  my  hair 
was  actually  clotted  with  ice  before  I  had  time  to  dry  it." 

The  hunters  sufiered  severely  from  the  intensity  of 
^he  cold,  and  compared  the  sensation  of  handling  their 
guns  to  that  of  touching  red-hot  iron,  and  so  excessive 
was  the  pain,  that  they  were  obliged  to  wrap  thongs  of 
leather  round  the  triggers  to  keep  their  fingers  trom 
coming  into  contact  with  the  steel. 

The  sufierings  which  the  party  now  endured  were 
great,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  exemplary  conduct 
of  Akaitcho  in  procuring  them  game,  it  is  to  be  doubted 
whether  any  would  have  survived  to  tell  the  misery 
they  had  endured.  The  sentiments  of  this  worthy  sav 
age  were  nobly  expressed  -r-"  The  great  chief  trusts  in 
us,  and  it  is  better  that  ten  Indians  perish,  than  that 
one  white  man  should  perish  through  our  negligence 
and  breach  of  faith." 

On  the  14th  of  February,  Mr.  McLeod  and  his  family 
removed  to  a  place  half  way  between  the  fort  and  the 
Indians,  in  order  to  facilitate  their  own  support,  and 
assist  in  procuring  food  by  hunting.  His  situation, 
however,  became  soon  one  of  the  greatest  embarrass- 
ment, he  and  his  family  being  surrounded  by  difficul- 
ties, privations,  and  deaths.  Six  of  the  natives  near 
him  sank  under  the  horrors  of  starvation,  and  Akaitchc 
and  his  hunters  were  twelve  days'  march  distant. 


vi 


I 


CAITAIN   BACK'S    LAND  JOURNEY. 


177 


Toward  the  end  of  April,  Capt.  Back  began  to  make 
arrangements  for  constructing  boats  for  prosecuting  tho 
expedition  once  more,  and  while  so  employed,  on  the 
25th  a  messenger  arrived  with  the  gratityin|j  intelli- 
irence,  that  Capt.  Ross  had  arrived  safely  m  England, 
fonfirmation  of  which,  was  afforded  in  extracts  frum 
the  Times  and  Herald^  and  letters  from  the  long  lost 
adventurers  themselves.  Their  feelings  at  tliese  glad 
tidings  are  thus  described  : — "  In  the  fullness  of  our 
hearts  we  assembled  together,  and  humbly  offered  up 
our  thanks  to  that  merciful  Providence,  who  in  tho 
beautiful  language  of  scripture  hath  said,  '  Mine  own 
will  I  bring  a^^am,  as  I  did  sometime  from  the  deeps 
of  the  sea.'  Trie  thought  of  so  wonderful  a  preserva- 
tion overpowered  for  a  time  the  common  occurrences 
of  life.  We  had  just  sat  down  to  breakfast ;  but  our 
appetite  was  gone,  and  the  day  was  passed  in  a  fever- 
ish state  of  excitement.  Seldom,  indeed,  did  my  friend 
Mr.  King  or  I  indulge  in  a  libation,  but  on  this  joyful 
occasion  economy  was  forgotten  ;  a  treat  was  given  to 
the  men,  and  for  ourselves  the  social  sympathies  were 
quickened  by  a  generous  bowl  of  punch."  Capt.  Back's 
former  interpreter,  Augustus,  hearing  that  he  was  in 
the  country,  set  out  on  foot  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  join 
him,  but  getting  separated  from  his  two  companions, 
the  gallant  little  fellow  was  either  exhausted  by  suffer- 
ing and  privations,  or,  caught  in  the  midst  of  an  open 
traverse,  in  one  of  those  terrible  snow  storms  which 
may  be  f  aid  to  blow  almost  through  the  frame,  he  had 
Bunk  to  lise  no  more,  his  bleached  remains  being  dis- 
covered not  far  from  the  Riviere  a  Jean.  "  Such," 
says  Capt.  Back,  "  was  the  miserable  end  of  poor  Au- 
gustus, a  faithful,  disinterested,  kind-hearted  creature, 
who  had  won  the  regard,  not  of  myself  only,  but  I 
may  add,  of  Sir  J.  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson  also, 
by  qualities  which,  wherever  found,  in  the  lowest  as  iu 
the  highest  forms  of  social  life,  are  the  ornament  and 
charm  of  humanity." 

On  the  7th  of  June,  all  the  preparations  being  com- 
l^eted,  McLeod  having  been  previously  sent  on  to  hunt, 


%  ■■  - 


» 


m 


...;ii! 


1 , 
1 1' 


I 


\.  H 


I 


f 


178 


PROOUK38   OF   AKCriO   DISCOVERr. 


and  deposit  csisks  of  meat  nt  various  stagca,  Back  set 
out  with  Mr.  King,  accompanied  by  four  voyagers  and 
an  Indian  guide.  The  stores  not  required  were  buried, 
and  the  doons  and  windows  of  the  liouso  blockcMl  up. 

At  Artillery  Lake,  Back  picked  up  the  renuiinder 
of  his  i)arty,  with  the  carpenters  who  had  been  em 
l)lt)yed  preparing  boats.  The  liglitest  and  best  was 
chosen  and  jilaced  on  ruiniers  phited  with  iron,  and  in 
this  manner  she  was  drawn  over  the  ice  by  two  men  and 
six  fine  dogs.  The  eastern  siiore  of  the  hike  was  fol- 
lowed, as  it  was  found  less  rocky  and  precipitous  than 
tlie  oj)posito  one.  The  march  was  prosecuted  by  night, 
the  air  being  more  fresh  and  pleasant,  and  the  i)arty 
took  rest  in  the  day.  The  glare  of  the  ice,  the  ditii- 
culty  encountered  in  getting  the  boat  along,  the  ice  be- 
ing so  bad  that  the  spikes  of  the  runners  cut  through 
instead  of  sliding  over  it,  and  the  thick  snow  which 
fell  in  June,  greatly  increased  the  labor  of  getting  along. 
The  cold,  raw  wind  pierced  through  them  in  spite  of 
cloaks  and  blankets.  After  being  caulked,  the  boat 
was  launched  on  the  14th  of  June,  the  lake  being  suf- 
ficiently unobstructed  to  admit  of  her  being  towed 
along  shore.  The  weather  now  became  exceedingly 
unpleasant —  hail,  snow,  and  rain,  pelted  them  one  after 
the  other  for  some  time  without  respite,  and  then  only 
yielded  to  squalls  that  overturned  the  boat.  With 
alternate  spells  and  baitings  to  rest,  they  however, 
gradually  advanced  on  the  traverse,  and  were  really 
making  considerable  progress  when  pelting  showers  of 
sleet  and  drift  so  dimmed  and  confused  the  sight,  dark- 
ening the  atmosphere,  and  limiting  their  view  to  only 
a  few  paces  before  them,  as  to  render  it  an  extrc:aely 
perplexing  task  to  keep  their  course. 

On  the  23d  of  June,  they  fortunately  fell  in  with  a 
cache  made  for  them  by  their  avant-couriei\  Mr.  Mc- 
Leod,  in  which  was  a  seasonable  supply  of  deer  and 
musk-ox  flesh,  the  latter,  however,  so  impregnjited  with 
tlse  odor  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  that  the  men  de- 
clared tliey  would  rather  starve  three  days  than  swal 
low  a  mouthful  of  it.    To  remove  this  unfavorable  inl- 


and 


CAFFAIN    UAC;iv8    LAM)  JOUUNET. 


170 


)0 


prcBsion,  Capt.  J>ack  ordered  tlic  daily  rations  !o  Ik 
Berved  tVoni  it  tor  liis  own  mess  as  well  as  theirs,  tak 
ini]f  occasion  at  the  fcanie  time,  to  imnress  on  their  minds 
tlie  injnrioUH  consecjnences  of  voluntary  ahstineuee, 
and  the  necessity  of  accommodating  tiieir  tastes  to 
Biicli  food  as  the  conntry  mif^ht  supply.  Soon  after  an- 
other cacJii'  was  met  with,  thus  njaking  eleven  animaU 
in  all,  that  had  hi'cn  thus  obtained  and  secured  for 
them  by  the  kind  care  of  Mr.  McLeod. 

On  the  27th,  they  reached  Sandy  Hill  Bay,  where 
tliey  found  Mr.  McLeod  encamped.  On  the  2Sth,  the 
boat  being  too  frail  to  be  dragged  over  the  portage, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mih^  in  length,  was  carried  bodily 
by  the  crew,  and  launched  safely  in  the  Thlew-ee-choli 
or  Fish  River.  After  crossing  the  portage  beyond 
Mnsk-ox  Rapid,  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  having 
all  his  ]iarty  together.  Captain  liack  took  a  survey  of 
his  provisions  for  the  three  months  of  operations,  m  nich 
he  tound  to  consist  of  two  boxes  of  maccaroni,  a  case 
of  cocoa,  twenty-seven  bags  of  ]iemmican  of  about  SO 
l])s.  each,  and  a  keg  w'ith  two  gallons  of  rum.  This  ho 
considered  an  adequate  supjily  if  all  turned  out  sound 
and  good.  The  ditKculty,  however,  of  transj)orting  a 
weiglit  of  5000  lbs,  over  ice  and  rocks,  by  a  circuitous 
route  of  full  200  miles,  may  be  easily  conceived,  not  to 
mention  the  pain  endured  in  walking  on  st)me  parts 
where  the  ice  formed  innumerable  spikes  that  pierced 
like  needles,  and  in  other  places  where  it  was  so  black 
and  decayed,  that  it  threatened  at  every  step  to  engulf 
the  adventurous  traveler.  These  and  similar  difficul 
ties  could  only  be  overcome  by  the  most  steady  perse 
verance,  and  the  most  determined  resolution. 

Among  the  group  of  dark  figures  huddled  together 
in  the  Indian  encampinent  around  them,  Capt.  Back 
found  his  old  acquaintance,  the  Indian  beauty  of  whom 
mention  is  made  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  narrative  un- 
der the  name  of  Green  ^♦■ockings.  Although  sur- 
rounded with  a  family,  with  one  urchin  in  l»er  cloak 
clinging  to  her  back,  and  several  other  maternal  ac- 
iompanimcnts,  Capt.   Back   immediately  recognized 


I    . 

•:;Ji- 


•  ^' 


ti  ^ 


;'Mt 


18C 


PROGRESS   OF   AKClIU  DISCOVERY, 


(I: 


her,  and  called  her  by  he/  name,  at  which  she  laughed, 
aiul  said  she  was  an  old  woman  -'.ow,  and  bfggect  that 
she  might  be  relieved  by  the  "  medicine  man  "  for  she 
was  very  much  out  of  health.  However,  notwithstand- 
ing all  this,  she  was  still  the  beauty  of  her  tribe,  and 
with  that  consciousness  which  belongs  to  all  belles,  sav- 
age or  polite,  she  seemed  by  no  means  displeased  wh^jii 
Back  sketijhed  her  portrait. 

Mr.  McLeod  was  now  sent  back,  taking  with  him  ton 
persons  and  fourteen  dogs.  His  instructions  were  to 
proceed  to  Fort  Resolution  for  the  stores  expected  to  he 
sent  there  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to  build  a 
house  in  some  good  locality,  for  a  permanent  Ushin^^ 
station,  and  to  be  again  on  tne  banks  of  the  Fish  liivor 
by  the  middle  of  September,  to  afford  Back  and  his 
party  any  assistance  or  relief  they  might  require. 

Tlie  old  Indian  chief  Akaitcho,  hearing  from  the  in- 
terprv'ti'r  that  Capt.  Back  was  in  his  immediate  neigli- 
borliood,  said,  "I  have  known  the  chief  a  long  time, 
and  I  am  afraid  I  shall  never  see  him  again  ;  I  will  go 
to  him."  On  his  arrival  he  cautioned  Back  against  the 
dangers  of  a  river  which  he  distinctly  told  him  the 
present  race  of  Indians  knew  nothing  of.  He  also 
warned  him  against  the  treachery  of  tlie  Esquimaux, 
which  he  said  was  always  masked  under  the  guise  of 
friendship,  observing  they  would  attack  him  when  he 
least  expected  it.  "  I  am  afraid,"  continued  the  good 
old  chief,  "  that  I  shall  never  see  you  again ;  but  should 
you  escape  from  tlie  great  water,  take  care  you  are  not 
caught  by  the  v/inter,  and  thrown  into  a  situation  like 
that  in  which  you  were  on  your  return  from  the  Cop 
])ennine,  for  you  are  alone,  and  the  Indians  cannot 
assist  you." 

The  carpenters,  with  an  Iroquois,  not  being  further 
required,  were  dismissed  to  join  Mr.  McLeod,  and  on 
the  8th  of  July  they  proceeded  down  the  river.  The 
boat  was  now  launched  and  laden  with  her  cargo,  which, 
together  with  ten  persons,  she  stowed  well  enough  for 
a  smooth  river,  but  not  for  a  lake  or  sea  wav.  The 
wt'iirht  was  calculated  at  8nno  Ihs.,  exclusive  of  thii 
awniiit):,  polos,  sails,  &c..  and  the  crew. 


CAPTAIN  back's   LAND  JOURNEY. 


181 


Their  progress  to  the  sea  was  now  one  continued  suc- 
tfussion  of  (lant^erous  and  formidable  falls,  rapids,  and 
cataracts,  whiclifi'equently  made  Back  hold  his  breath, 
ex])ecting  to  see  the  boat  clashed  to  shivers  agi-inst  some 
protruding  rocks  amidst  the  foam  and  fury  at  tlic  foot 
of  a  rapid.  The  only  wonder  is  how  in  their  frail  leaky 
boat  they  ever  shot  one  of  the  rapids.  Rapid  alter 
raj^id,  and  fall  after  fall,  were  passed,  each  accompa- 
nied with  more  or  less  danger ;  and  in  one  instance  the 
built  was  only  saved  by  all  Lands  jumping  into  the 
breakers,  and  keeping  her  stern  up  the  stream,  until 
she  was  cleared  from  a  rock  that  had  brought  her  up. 

They  had  hardly  time  to  get  into  their  places  again, 
wlien  they  were  carried  with  considerable  velocity 
past  a  river  which  joined  from  the  westward.  After 
passing  no  less  than  five  rapids  within  the  distance  of 
three  miles,  they  came  to  one  long  and  appalling  one, 
full  of  rocks  and  large  boulders  ;  the  sides  hemmed  in 
by  a  wall  of  ice,  and  the  current  flying  with  the  veluo 
ity  and  force  of  a  torrent.  The  boat  was  lightened  of 
her  cargo,  and  Capt.  Back  placed  himself  on  a  high 
rock,  with  an  anxious  desire  to  see  her  run  the  rapid, 
lie  had  every  hope  which  confidence  in  the  judgment 
and  dexterity  of  his  principal  men  could  inspire,  but  it 
was  impossible  not  to  feel  that  one  crash  would  be  fatal 
to  the  expedition.  Away  they  went  with  the  speed  of 
an  arrow,  and  in  a  moment  the  foam  and  rocks  hid 
them  from  view.  Back  at  last  heard  what  sounded  in 
his  ear  like  a  wild  shriek,  and  he  saw  Dr.  King,  who 
was  a  hundred  yards  before  him,  make  a  sign  with  his 
gun,  and  then  run  forward.  Back  followed  with  an 
agitation  which  may  be  easily  conceived,  when  to  his 
inexpressible  joy  he  found  that  the  shriek  was  tlie  tri 
umphant  whoop  of  the  crew,  who  had  landed  sMfely  in 
a  small  bay  beiow.  For  nearly  one  hundred  miles  of 
the  distance  they  were  impeded  by  these  frightful  whirl 
pools,  and  strong  and  heavy  rapids. 

On  opening  one  of  their  bags  ot  pemmican,  tlie  in 
ojenuity  of  the  Indians  at  pilfering  was  discovered,  sue 
eessivc  layers  of  mixed  sand,  stones,  and  green  mea 


f  '•'  2 


!  •  ' 


i» 


•P  'i 


ii 


\  ■ 


182 


PKOGBESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


having  been  artfully  and  cleverly  substituted  for  the 
dry  meat.  Fearful  that  they  might  be  carrying  heaps 
of  stone  instead  of  provision,  Back  had  to  examiim 
carefully  the  remainder,  which  were  all  found  sountl 
and  well-tasted.  lie  began  to  fear,  from  the  inclination 
of  the  river  at  one  time  toward  the  south,  that  it  would 
bo  found  to  discharge  itself  in  Chesterfield  Inlet,  in 
Hudson's  Bay,  but  subsequently,  to  his  great  joy,  it 
took  a  direct  course  toward  the  north,  and  liis  hopes  of 
reaching  the  Polar  Sea  were  revived.  The  river  now 
led  into  several  large  lakes,  some  studded  with  islands, 
which  were  named  successively  after  Sir  H.  Pelly,  and 
Mr.  Garry,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  two  others 
were  named  Lake  Macdougall  and  Lake  Franklin. 

On  the  28th  of  July,  thev  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of  about 
thirty-five  very  friendly  Esquimaux,  who  aided  them 
in  transporting  their  boat  over  the  last  long  and  steep 

Sortage,  to  which  his  men  were  utterly  unequal,  and 
lack  justly  remarks,  to  their    kind   assistance  he  is 
mainly  indebted  fur  getting  to  the  sea  at  all. 

It  was  late  when  they  got  awav,  and  while  threading 
their  course  between  some  sand-banks  with  a  stroujj; 
current,  they  first  caught  siglit  of  a  majestic  headland 
in  the  extreme  distance  to  the  north,  which  had  n 
coast-like  appearance.  This  important  promontory, 
Back  subsequently  named  after  our  gracious  Queeu, 
then  Princess  Victoria. 

"  This,  then,"  observes  Back,  "  may  be  considered  as 
the  mouth  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  which  after  a  violent 
and  tortuous  course  of  530  geographical  miles,  runnino; 
through  an  iron-ribbed  country,  without  a  single  troo 
on  the  whole  line  of  its  banks,  expanding  into  tivo 
large  lakes,  with  clear  horizon,  most  embarrassing  to 
tlie  navigator,  and  broken  into  falls,  cascades,  and  raj)- 
ids,  to  the  number  of  eighty-three  in  the  whole,  ])our8 
its  water  into  the  Polar  Sea,  in  bit.  fJT"  11'  N.,  and  lon<^'. 
94°  30'  AV.,  that  is  to  say,  about  thirty-seven  niiU's 
more  south  than  the  Cop])ennino  IMver,  and  nineteen 
miles  more  south  than  tlnit  of  Back's  River,  (of  Frank 
lin,)  at  the  lower  extrem'ty  of  BathnrsiV  Inlet." 


h    i 


CAPTAIN  BACK  8  LAND  JOURNEY. 


183 


For  several  days  Back  was  able  to  make  but  slow 
progress  along  the  eastern  shore,  in  consequence  of  the 
Bolia  body  of  drift-ice.  A  barren,  rocky  elevation  of 
800  feet  high,  was  named  Cape  Beaufort,  after  the 
present  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty.  A  bluff  point 
on  the  eastern  sicie  of  the  estuary,  which  he  considered 
to  be  the  northern  extreme,  he  named  Cape  Hay. 
Dean  and  Simpson,  however,  in  1839,  traced  the  shore 
much  beyond  this.  The  difficulties  met  with  here,  be- 
gan to  dispirit  the  men.  For  a  woek  or  ten  days  they 
hud  a  continuation  of  wet,  chiliy,  foggy  weather,  and 
Ihe  only  vegetation,  fern  and  moss,  was  so  wet  that  it 
would  not  burn  ;  being  thus  without  fuel,  during  this 
time  they  had  but  one  hot  meal.  Almost  without 
water,  without  anv  means  of  warmth,  or  any  kind  of 
warm  or  comfortmg  food,  sinking  knee-deep,  as  tliey 
])roceeded  on  land,  in  tlie  soft  slush  and  snow,  no  won- 
der that  some  of  the  best  men,  benumbed  in  their  limbs 
and  dispirited  by  the  dreary  and  unpromising  prospect 
before  them,  broke  out  for  a  moment,  in  low  murmur- 
iiigs,  that  theirs  was  a  hard  and  jiainful  duty. 

Captain  Back  found  it  utterly  impossible  to  proceed, 
as  ho  had  intended,  to  tlic  Point  Turnagain  of  Franklin, 
and  after  vainly  essaying  a  land  expedition  by  three  of 
the  best  walkers,  and  these  having  returned,  after  mak- 
ing ])ut  fifteen  miles' way,  in  consequence  of  the  heavy 
rains  and  the  swamj^y  nature  oi  the  ground,  he  came 
to  the  resolution  of  returning.  Reflecting,  he  says,  on 
the  long  and  dangerous  stream  thev  had  to  ascend 
combining  all  the  bad  features  of  the  worst  rivers  in 
the  country,  the  hazard  of  the  falls  and  the  rapids,  and 
the  slender  hope  which  remained  of  their  attaining 
even  a  single  mile  further,  he  felt  he  had  no  choice. 
Assembling,  therefore,  the  men  around  him,  and  un- 
furling the  Jlritish  flag,  which  was  saluted  with  three 
cheers,  he  announced  to  them  this  determination.  The 
latitude  of  this  place  was  08"  13'  57"  N.,  and  longitude 
94-°  58'  1"  W.  The  extreme  point  seen  to  tlie  north- 
ward on  the  western  side  of  the  estiiary,  in  latitude  08° 
40'  N.,  longitude  00°  20'  W.,  Back  named  Cape  Rich- 


.•-  flu. 


1:3  :> 

•i .4 


♦t; } 


3 


184 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


ardson.  The  spirits  of  many  of  the  men,  whose  health 
had  suffered  greatly  for  want  of  warm  and  nourishinfy 
food,  now  brightened,  and  they  set  to  work  with  alac- 
rity to  prepare  for  their  return  journey.  The  boat  be- 
ing dragged  across,  was  brought  to  the  place  of  their 
foi-mer  station,  atler  which  the  crew  went  back  four 
miles  for  their  baggage.  The  whole  was  safely  con- 
veyed over  before  the  evening,  when  the  water-casks 
were  broken  up  to  make  a  fire  to  warm  a  kettle  of 
cocoa,  the  second  hot  meal  they  had  had  for  nine  days. 

On  the  15th  of  August,  they  managed  to  make  their 
way  about  twenty  nnles,  on  their  return  to  the  south- 
ward, through  a  breach  in  the  ice,  till  they  came  to 
open  water.  The  dilHculties  of  the  river  wore  doubled 
in  the  ascent,  from  having  to  proceed  against  the  stream. 
All  the  obstacles  of  rocks,  nipids,  sand-banks,  and  long 
portages  had  to  be  faced.  In  some  days  as  many  as 
sixteen  or  twenty  rapids  were  ascended.  They  found, 
as  they  proceeded,  tliat  many  of  the  deposits  of  pro- 
visions, on  which  they  relied,  had  been  discovered  and 
destroyed  by  wolves.  On  the  IGth  of  Septembei*,  tliey 
met  Mr.  McLeod  and  his  party,  who  had  been  several 
days  at  Sand  Hill  l>i'y,  waiting  for  them.  On  the  24tli, 
they  reached  the  Ah-hel-dessy,  where  they  met  with 
some  Indians.  They  were  ultimately  stopped  by  one 
most  formidable  perpendicular  fall,  and  as  it  was  found 
im})ossible  to  convey  the  boat  further  over  so  rugged 
and  mountainous  a  country,  most  of  the  declivities  of 
which  were  coated  with  thin  ice,  and  the  whole  hidden 
by  snow,  it  was  here  abandoned,  and  the  party  pro- 
ceeded tiie  rest  of  the  journey  on  foot,  each  laden  with 
a  pack  of  about  75  lbs.  weight. 

Late  on  the  27th  of  September,  they  arrived  at  their 
old  liabitation.  Fort  Reliance,  after  being  absent  nearly 
four  months,  w^earied  i^^xleed,  but  "  truly  grateful  for 
the  mnnifold  mercies  they  had  experienced  in  the 
cournc  of  their  long  and  perilous  journey."  Arrange- 
ments wen^  now  made  to  pass  the  winter  as  comforta- 
l)ly  as  their  neans  would  ])ermit,  and  as  there  was  no 
|)r(>bability  liuit  Li:ej  3  would  Le  sufiieient  food  in  the 


J. 


i«*i.. 


Hi 
•  f 
I'll 

|)ro- 


OAFfAIN    BACKS    LAND  JOUKNEY. 


185 


house  for  the  consumption  of  the  whole  party,  all  ex- 
cept six  were  sent  with  Mr.  McLeod  to  the  fisheries. 
The  Indians  brought  them  provisions  from  time  tu  time, 
and  their  friend  Akaitcho,  with  his  foll||^r8,  though 
not  very  successful  in  hunting,  was  ndHR'anting  in 
his  contributions.  This  old  diieftain  \np,  however, 
no  longer  the  same  active  and  important  personage  he 
had  been  in  the  daye  when  he  renderea  such  good 
service  to  Sir  John  Franklin.  Old  age  and  infirmities 
were  creeping  on  him  and  rendering  him  peevish  and 
tickle. 

On  the  2l8t  of  March  following,  having  left  direc- 
tions with  Dr.  King  to  proceed,  at  the  ]>r()per  soMson, 
to  the  Company's  factory  at  Hudson's  Bay,  to  embark 
for  England  in  their  spring  ships,  Captain  Back  set 
out  on  his  return  through  Canada,  calling  at  the  Fishe- 
ries to  bid  farewell  to  his  esteemed  frienci,  Mr.  McLeod, 
and  arriving  at  the  Norway  House  on  the  24th,  where 
he  settled  and  arranged  the  accounts  due  for  stores, 
(fee,  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  He  proceeded 
thence  to  New  York,  embarked  for  England,  and  ar- 
rived at  Liverpool  on  the  8th  of  September,  after  an 
abserce  of  two  years  and  a  half.  Back  was  honored 
with  an  audience  of  his  Majesty,  who  expressed  his  ajv 
probation  of  his  efforts — first  in  tlie  cause  of  human- 
ity, and  next  in  that  of  geographical  and  scientific  re- 
search. He  has  since  been  knighted  ;  and  in  1835,  the 
Koyal  Geographical  Society  awarded  him  their  gold 
medal,  (the  Boyal  premium,)  for  his  discovery  of  the 
Great  Fish  River,  and  navigating  it  to  the  sea  on  the 
arctic  coast. 

Dr.  King,  with  the  remainder  of  the  party,  (eight 
men,")  reached  England,  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's ship,  in  the  following  month,  October. 

Of  Captain  Back's  travels  it  has  been  justly  observed 
tliat  it  is  impossible  to  rise  from  the  perusal  of  them 
witliout  being  struck  with  astonishment  at  the  extent  of 
pufibringp  which  the  liumun  frame  can  endure,  siiid  ;it  tlie 
Piinie  time  the  wondrous  displry  of  fortitude  which  was 
exhil)ited  under  circumstances  of  so  appalling  a  nature, 


[1 


•  N 

i  : 

t  >  ^ 

«■■«!  J 


»  ^^1 


186 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   PISCO  VEST. 


;J 


as  to  invest  the  narrative  with  the  character  of  a  roman- 
tic fiction,  rather  than  an  unexaggerated  tale  of  actual 
reality,  lie,  however,  snftercd  not  despair  nor  dospuii- 
dency  to  overcome  him,  but  gallantly  and  undauntedly 
pursued  his  course,  until  ho  returned  to  his  native  laiul 
to  add  to  the  number  of  those  noble  spirits  whoso  names 
will  be  carried  to  posterity  as  the  brightest  ornaments 
to  the  country  which  gave  them  birth. 

Captain  Back's  Voyage  of  the  Terror. 

In  the  year  1836,  Captain  Back,  who  had  only  re- 
tunK3d  the  previous  autumn,  at  the  recommendation  of 
the  Geographical  Society,  undertook  a  voyage  in  the 
Terror  up  Hudson's  Strait. 

He  was  to  reach  Wager  River,  or  Repulse  Bay,  and 
to  make  an  overland  journey,  to  examine  the  bottom 
of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  sending  other  parties  to  the 
north  and  west  to  examine  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and 
llecla,  and  to  reach,  if  possible,  Franklin's  Point  Turn- 
again. 

Leaving  England  on  the  14th  of  June,  he  arrived  on 
the  14th  of  August  at  Salisbury  Island,  and  proceeded 
up  the  Frozen  Strait ;  off  Cape  Comfort  the  ship  got 
frozen  in,  and  on  tlie  breaking  u]3  of  the  ice  by  one  of 
tliose  frequent  convulsions,  the  vessel  was  drifted  right 
up  tlie  Frozen  Channel,  grinding  large  heaps  that  op- 
posed lier  progress  to  powder. 

From  December  to  March  she  was  driven  about  by 
the  furv  of  the  storms  and  ice,  all  attempts  to  release 
lier  being  utterly  powerless.  She  thus  floated  till  tlie 
loth  of  July,  and  for  three  days  was  on  lier  beam-ends ; 
but  on  the  14tli  she  suddenly  righted.  Tlie  crazy  vessel 
with  her  gaping  wounds  was  scarcely  able  to  transport 
the  crew  across  the  stormy  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  but 
the  return  voyage  which  was  rendered  absolutely  neccs- 
saiT,  was  fortunately  accomplished  safely. 

I  shall  now  give  a  concise  summary  of  Captain  Sir 
George  Back's  arctic  services,  so  as  to  present  it  more 
rcadilv  to  the  reader: 


were  sei 


DBASE   AND  SIMPSON  S   DISCOVERIES. 


187 


In  1818  he  was  Admiralty  Mate  on  board  the  Trent. 
,inder  Franklin.  In  1819  he  again  accorr.]..anied  him 
on  his  first  overland  jonrney,  and  was  with  him  in  all 
those  perilons  sufterings  whicli  are  elsewhere  narrated. 
He  was  also  as  a  Lieutenant  with  Franklin  on  liis  sec- 
ond journey  in  1825.  Having  been  in  the  interval  ]n'o- 
iiioted  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  he  proceeded,  in  18o3, 
accompanied  hy  Dr.  King  and  a  party,  througli  Nortii- 
ern  America  to  the  Polar  Sea,  in  search  of  Captain 
John  lloss.  He  was  posted  on  the  30th  of  September, 
1835,  and  appointed  in  the  following  year  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  Terror,  for  a  voyage  of  discovery  in  Hud- 
son's Bay. 

Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson's  Discoveries. 

In  1836  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  resolved  upon 
undertaking  the  completion  of  the  survey  of  the  north 
ern  coast  of  their  territories,  forming  the  shores  of 
Arctic  America,  and  small  portions  of  which  were  left 
undetermined  between  the  discoveries  of  Captains  Back 
and  Franklin. 

They  commissioned  to  this  task  two  of  their  officei*s, 
Mr.  Thomas  Simpson  and  Mr.  Peter  Warren  Dease,  who 
were  sent  out  witii  a  party  of  twelve  men  from  the  com 
pany's  chief  fort,  with  proper  aid  and  nppliunecs.  De- 
scendinj;  the  Mackenzie  to  the  sea,  thev  reached  and 
surveyed  in  July,  18G7,  the  remainder  of  the  western 
])nrt  of  the  coast  left  unexamir.ed  by  Fiuvnklin  in  1.S25, 
tVuni  his  Retm-n  Reef  to  Cape  Barrow,  where  the  Bios 
sum's  boats  turned  l^ack. 

Proceeding  on  from  Return  Reef  two  new  rivers 
were  discovered, —  tlie  Garry  and  the  Culville;  the 
hitter  more  than  a  thousand  miles  in  length.  Although 
it  was  the  height  of  summer,  the  ground  was  found 
frozen  several  inclies  below  the  surface,  the  spray  froze 
un  tlie  oars  and  rigging  of  their  boat<,  and  the  ice  lay 
smooth  and  solid  in  the  bays,  as  in  the  depth  of  winter. 

On  the  4th  of  Auirust.  having  left  the  boats  and  ])ro 
needed  on  by  bind,  Mr.  Simpson  arriv(»d  at  Elson  Bay 
12  H* 


•■f^*-  f., 


m 


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IftS 


PROORKflfl   OF  AROTIO    DISCOVERY. 


V 


wliich  point  Licutoiiaut  Elson  had  retirhod  in  tlio  IMos- 
BOin's  \n\r<ro  in  182(5. 

The  j>!irt y  >u)\v  retunicd  to  winter  lit  Fort  (confidence, 
on  (treat  Boar  Lake,  whence  they  were  instructed  to 
prosecute  their  search  to  the  eastward  next  season,  and 
to  coninuuiicato  if  possiblo  with  Sir  George  Back's 
expedition. 

Tliey  left  their  winter  quarters  on  the  Oth  of  Jinie, 
1838,  and  descended  Dease'H  River.  They  found  tiie 
Coppermine  Kiver  much  swollen  l>y  floods,  and  encuni- 
btred  with  masses  of  floatini^  ice.  Tlie  rapids  they  iiad 
to  pass  were  very  ])erilou8,  as  nniy  bo  inferred  from  the 
following  graphic  description: — 

"Wo  had  to  pull  for  our  lives  to  keep  out  of  the  suc- 
tion of  the  precipices,  along  whoso  base  the  bieakcrs 
raged  and  foamed  with  overwhelming  fury.  SluMtiy 
betore  noon,  we  came  in  sight  of  Escape  Rapid  of 
Franklin  ;  and  a  glance  at  the  overhanging  clilf  told  us 
that  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  run  down  with  a 
full  cargo.  In  an  instant,"  continues  Mr.  Simpson, "  we 
were  in  the  vortex ;  and  before  we  were  aware,  iny  l)oat 
v/ns  Vorne  toward  an  isolated  rock,  which  the  boilino 
surge  almost  concealed.  To  clear  it  on  the  outside  wa^ 
no  longer  p.;ssible  ;  our  only  chance  of  safety  was  to 
run  between  it  and  the  lofty  eastern  cliiT.  The  word 
was  passed,  and  every  breath  was  hushed.  A  stream 
which  dashed  down  u])on  us  over  the  brow  of  the  ])reci 
pice  more  than  a  hund  ed  feet  in  height,  mingled  with 
the  spray  that  whirled  upward  from  the  rapid,  forminj^ 
a  terrific  shower-bath.  The  pass  was  al)out  eight  feet 
wide,  and  the  error  of  a  single  foot  on  either  side  wouhl 
hove  been  instant  destruction.  As,  guided  by  Sinclair's 
consummate  skill,  the  boat  shot  safely  through  those 
jaws  of  death,  an  involuntary  clieer  arose.  (3ur  next 
impulse  was  to  turn  round  to  view  the  fate  of  our  coni- 
raaea  behind.  They  had  profited  by  the  peril  we  in- 
curred, and  kept  without  the  treacherous  rock  in  time." 

On  the  Ist  of  July  they  readied  the  sea,  and  en- 
camped at  tlie  mouth  of  the  river,  where  tliey  waited 
for  tlie  opening  of  the  ice  till  the  17th.     They  doubled 


(!"'**-■   , 


DKAfiE    AND    SIMPnON  8    DIB.  OVRUIEH. 


189 


('ape  Burrow,  one  of  the  iiortlicrn  points  oi'  15utliur8t'8 
InU't,  on  the  2l)tli,  l)ut  wiTCf  priivcintu^l  crosKJng  tlu;  inlet 
hy  the  continuity  of  the  ice,  and  ol)li;^c(l  to  niukc  a 
ciVcnit  of  nearly  150  niili'H  hy  Arctic  Sound. 

Some  very  pure  spcciinenH  of  copper  ore  were  found 
on  one  of  tlic  Hurry  IsIuikIh.  A'ttM*  doulilin<^  (.'ape 
Flinders  on  the  Dth  of  August,  thi;  bouts  \v(M'e  urre8te(| 
by  the  ice  in  u  little  Imy  to  which  the  name  of  Jioat 
lluven  was  given, .sitiuite  about  thret?  miles  from  Frank- 
lin's farthest.  Here  the  boats  lingered  for  the  bcit 
part  of  a  month,  in  utter  hopelessness.  Mr.  Simj)son 
pushed  on  therefore  on  the  2<)tli,  with  an  ex])loring  party 
i»r*  seven  men,  provitsionod  for  ten  days.  On  the  tirst 
(hiy  they  i)a88ed  l\)int  Turnuguin,  the  limit  of  Frank- 
lin's survey  in  1821.  On  the  ii;kl  th(\v  had  reached  an 
elevatiMl  cape,  with  lund  apparently  closing  all  round 
to  the  northward,  so  that  it  was  feared  they  had  only 
been  traversing  the  coast  of  a  huge  l)ay.  ]3ut  the 
])erseveranco  of  the  adventurous  explorer  was  fully  re- 
warded. 

"With  bitter  diFappointinent,"  writes  Mr.  Simpson, 
'^  I  ascended  the  height,  fron^.  whence  a  vast  and  splen- 
did prospect  burst  sudch^nly  upon  me.  The  sea,  as  if 
transformed  by  enchantment,  rolled  its  fierce  waves  at 
mv  feet,  and  beyond  the  reach  of  vision  to  the  eastward, 
Islands  of  various  shape  and  size  overspread  its  surface  ; 
and  the  northern  land  teiminated  to  the  eye  in  a  bold 
and  lofly  cape,  bearing  c^ast  northeast,  thirty  or  forty- 
miles  distant,  "while  the  continental  coast  trended  away 
southeast.  I  stood,  in  fact,  on  a  remurkuble  headland, 
at  the  eastern  outhitof  an  ice-obstructed  strait.  On  the 
extensive  land  to  the  northward  I  l)estowed  the  name 
of  our  most  gracious  sovereign  Queen  Victoria.  Its 
eastern  visible  extremity  1  calhnl  Cape  Pelly,  in  com- 
pliment to  the  governor  of  Hudson's  liay  Company." 

Having  readied  the  limits  which  prudence,  dictated 
in  the  face  of  the  long  journey  back  to  the  boats,  many 
of  his  men  too  being  lame,  Mr.  Simpson  retraced  his 
Bteps,  and  the  party  reached  Bout-haven  on  the  20th  of 
August,  having  traced  nearly  14'>  miles  of  new  coast. 


1 


•   ••!». 


•—J 


4,:  '■ 

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t  • : 


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ICO 


PROGRESS   OF    AUCTIO    DISCOVERY. 


I*    &, 


TIio  boats  wore  cut  out  of  tJieir  icy  prifion,  and  com 
menoctl  their  rt'-ascfiit  ot'tlie  Co])i)enuiiio  on  the  JJtl  oi 
Bei)t«inher.  At  its  juuctioii  with  the  Kendal  liiver  tlie^? 
left  tiieir  boats,  and  shouldering  their  i)ack8,  tra\'crse(l 
the  barren  grounds,  and  arrived  at  their  residence  ou 
the  Mm  by  the  14th  of  September. 

The  following  season  these  persevering  explorers  com- 
menced their  third  voyage.  Thcv  reached  the  Llooily 
Fall  on  the  22d  ofJune,  1839,  and  occupied  themselves 
for  a  week  in  carefully  examining  Kichardson's  Iliver, 
which  was  discovered  in  the  previous  year,  and  dis- 
charges itself  in  the  head  of  Hack's  Inlet.  On  the  ;{d 
of  July  tliey  reached  Capo  Barrow,  and  from  its  rocky 
lieights  were  surprised  to  observe  Coronation  (iulf 
almost  clear  of  ice,  while  on  their  former  visit  it  could 
have  been  crossed  on  foot. 

They  were  at  Ca])o  Franklin  a  month  earlier  than 
Ml  S'uij-son  readied  it  on  foot  the  previous  year,  and 
doubled  Cape  Alexander,  the  northernmost  capo  in  this 
quarter,  on  the  28th  of  July,  after  encountering  a  vio- 
lent gale.  They  coasted  the  huge  bay  extending  for 
about  nine  degrees  eastward  from  this  jxiint,  being  fa- 
vored with  clear  weather,  and  protected  by  the  various 
islands  they  met  from  the  crushing  state  of  the  ice 
drifted  from  seaward. 

On  the  10th  of  August  they  opened  a  strait  about 
ten  miles  wide  at  each  extremity,  but  narrowing  to  four 
or  live  miles  in  the  center.  This  strait,  which  divides 
the  nniin-land  from  Boothia,  has  been  called  Simpson'n 
Strait. 

On  the  IStliof  Augmt  tl.eyhad  passed  Kichardson's 
Point  and  doubled  roint  Ogle,  the  furthest  point  of 
Back's  journey  in  1834. 

By  the  16th  they  had  reached  Montreal  Island  in 
Back's  Estuary,  where  they  found  a  deposit  <»f  pro- 
visions which  Captain  Back  had  left  there  that  day  five 
years.  The  pemmican  was  unfit  for  use,  but  out  of 
several  pounds  of  chocolate  half  decayed  the  men  con- 
trived to  pick  Bufhcient  to  nuike  a  kettleful  acceptable 
drink  in  honor  of  tho  occasion.    Tiicro  were  also  a  tin 


DEASB   AND   SIMl'SON  B   DmCOVKltlhlS. 


191 


cape  find  a  few  fis]i-lionl<<5,  of  M-liich,  ohscrvos  Mr. 
SiiMi)S(m,  "  i\ri'.  rX'iiso  1111(1  I  took  posscssitm,  as  iirmmo- 
rials  of  our  luivinnj  l)ivakfasti'(l  on  tlio  \'ery  spot  wIuto 
the  tent  of  our  ixallant,  tlionirli  less  siicccv-isful  precursor 
stood  tliat  vi'rv  (lav  fivo  voars  before. 

J>y  the  'Jotli  of  Aui^Uht  they  had  reached  ua  far  as 
Aberdeen  Island  to  the  eastward,  from  wliich  they  liad 
a  view  of  an  apparently  largo  gulf,  corresponding  with 
that  which  had  been  so  correctly  described  to  Parry  by 
the  intelligent  Esquimaux  female  as  Akkolee. 

From  a  mountainous  ridge  about  three  miles  inland 
a  view  of  In. id  in  the  northeast  was  obtained  supj^osed 
to  be  one  of  the  southern  ])romontories  of  IJoothia. 
High  and  distant  islands  stretching  irom  K.  to  E.  N.  K. 
(probably  some  in  Committee  l^ay)  were  seen,  and  two 
considerable  ones  were  noted  far  out  in  tht;  otHng. 
Kemcni'it'riiig  the  length  and  ditlicultv  of  their  return 
route,  tl.  •  explorers  now  retraced  their  steps.  On  their 
return  Vv)yage  they  traced  sixty  miles  of  tiie  south  coast 
oflioothiu,  where  at  one  time  they  were  not  more  than 
ninety  miles  from  the  site  of  the  magnetic  pole,  as  de- 
termined by  Cai)tain  Sir  James  C.  Koss.  On  the  '2.5th 
of  August  they  erected  a  high  cairn  at  their  faithest 
point,  near  Cape  Ilerschel. 

About  150  miles  of  the  high,  bold  shores  of  Victoria 
Land,  as  far  as  Capo  Parry,  w^re  alpo  examined ; 
Welling: on,  Cambridge,  and  Byron  Bays  being  sur- 
veyed and  accurately  laid  down.  Tliey  tlien  stretched 
ncro83  C  ironation  Oulf,  and  re-entered  the  Coj)per- 
inine  Kiver  on  the  ICth  of  Sei^tember. 

Abandoning  hero  one  of  their  boats,  with  the  re- 
iiiiiins  of  their  useless  stores  and  other  arti-les  not 
iHupiired,  they  ascended  the  river  and  reacht  1  Fort 
(yontidence  on  the  24th  of  September,  after  one  of  the 
longest  and  most  successful  boat  voyages  ever  per- 
formed on  the  Polar  Sea,  having  traversed  more  than 
1600  miles  of  sea. 

In  183'3,  before  the  intelligenco  of  this  last  trip 
had  been  received,  Mr.  Simpson  was  presented  by 
the  Koyal  Geographical  Society  of  London  with  the 


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PKOGlil^SS    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


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Founder's  Gold  Medal,  for  discovering  and  tracing  in 
1837  and  1838  about  300  miles  of  the  arctic  shores ; 
but  the  voyage  which  I  have  just  recorded  has  added 
greatly  to  the  laurels  which  he  and  his  bold  compan- 
ions have  achieved. 

Dk.  John  Kae's  Land  Expedition,  1846-47. 

Although  a  little  out  of  its  chronological  order,  I 
give  Dr.  Rae's  exploring  trip  before  I  proceed  to  no- 
tice Franklin's  last  voyage,  and  the  different  relief 
expeditions  that  have  been  sent  out  during  the  past 
two  years. 

In  1846  the  Hudson's  Company  dispatched  an  ex- 
pedition of  thirteen  persons,  under  the  command  of 
Dr.  John  Rae,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  unex- 
plored portion  of  the  arctic  coast  at  the  northeastej'n 
angle  of  the  American  continent  between  Dease  and 
Simpson's  farthest,  and  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and 
Hecla. 

The  expedition  left  Fort  Churchill,  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  on  the  5th  of  July,  1846,  and  returned  in  safety 
to  York  Factory  on  the  6tli  September  in  the  follow- 
ing year,  after  having,  by  traveling  over  ice  and  snow 
in  the  spring,  traced  the  coast  all  the  way  from  the 
Lord  Mayor's  Bay  of  Sir  John  Ross  to  within  eiojlit 
or  ten  miles  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  thus  prov- 
ing that  eminent  navigator  to  have  been  correct  in 
stating  Boothia  to  be  a  peninsula. 

On  the  15th  of  July  the  boats  first  fell  in  with  the 
ice,  about  ten  miles  north  of  Cape  Fullerton,  and  it 
was  so  heavy  and  closely  packed  that  they  were 
obliged  to  take  shelter  in  a  deep  and  narrow  inlet 
that  opportunely  presented  itself,  where  they  w^ere 
closed  up  two  days. 

On  the  22d  the  party  reached  the  most  southerly 
opening  of  Wager  River  or  Bay,  but  were  detained 
the  w^hole  day  by  the  immense  quantities  of  heavy  ice 
driving  in  and  out  with  the  flood  and  ebb  of  the  tide, 
which  ran  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  forcing  up 


ii, 
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1 


PR.   JOHN    liAES   LAUD   EXPEDITION. 


193 


the  ice  and  grinding  it  agfiinst  the  rocks  witli  a  noise 
like  thunder.  On  the  night  of  the  24th  the  boats 
ancht)red  at  tlie  he-id  ot'tlie  Repulse  Bay.  Tlie  follow- 
ing day  they  anchored  in  Gibson's  Cove,  on  the  banks 
of  which  they  met  with  a  small  party  of  Esqnimanx ; 
several  of  the  women  wore  beads  round  their  wrists, 
which  t!iey  had  obtained  from  Ca[)tain  Pari-y's  ship 
when  at  Igloolik  and  Winter  Island.  But  they  had 
neither  heaid  nor  seen  anything  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

Learniu":  from  a  chait  drawn  bv  one  of  the  natives, 
that  the  isthmus  of  Alolville  peninsula  was  only  about 
forty  miles  across,  and  i-hat  of  this,  owing  to  a  number 
of  large  lakes,  but  five  miles  of  land  would  have  to  be 
passed  over,  Dr.  Rae  determined  to  make  his  way 
over  this  neck  in  preference  to  proceedii^g  by  Fox's 
Channel  through  the  Fujy  and  Hecla  Strait. 

One  boat  was  therefore  laid  up  with  her  cargo  in 
security,  and  with  the  other  the  party  set  out,  assisted 
by  three  Esquimaux.  After  traversing  several  large 
lakes,  and  crossing  over  six  "  portages,"  on  the  2d  of 
August  they  got  into  the  salt  water,  in  Committee 
Bay,  but  being  able  to  make  but  little  progress  to  the 
northwest,  in  consequence  of  heavy  gales  and  closely 
packed  ice,  he  returned  to  his  starting  point,  and  made 
preparations  for  wintering,  it  being  found  impossible 
to  proceed  with  the  survey  at  that  time.  The  other 
boat  was  brought  across  the  isthmus,  and  all  hands 
were  set  to  work  in  making  preparations  for  a  long 
and  cold  y  inter. 

As  no  wood  was  to  be  had,  stones  were  collected  to 
build  a  house,  which  was  finished  by  the  2d  of  Sep- 
tember. Its  dimensions  were  twenty  feet  by  fourteen, 
and  about  eight  feet  high.  The  roof  was  formed  of 
oil-cloths  and  morse-skin  coverings,  the  masts  and 
oars  of  the  boats  serving  as  rafters,  while  the  door 
was  made  of  parchment  skins  stretched  over  a  wooden 
frame. 

The  deer  had  already  commenced  mijrrating  south- 
ward, but  whenever  he  hvx]  leisure.  Dr.  Rae  shoul- 
dered his  rifle,  and  had  frequently  good  success,  ehoot- 


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PKOORE88   OF   ARCTIC   DI800VKRT. 


ing  on  OTie  day  seven  deer  within  two  miles  of  then 
encMinpineiit. 

On  tlie  16th  of  October,  the  thennometer  fell  to 
zero,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  reindeer  had  j)assed  ; 
but  the  party  liad  by  this  time  shot  130,  and  (lining 
the  remainder  of  October,  and  in  Nox-ember,  thirty- 
two  more  were  killed,  &o  that  with  200  partridges  and 
a  few  salmon,  their  snow-built  larder  was  pretty  well 
stocked. 

Sufficient  fuel  liad  been  collected  to  last,  with  econ- 
omy, for  cooking,  until  the  spring;  and  a  couple  of 
seals  which  had  been  shot  ])i'oduced  oil  enough  fur 
their  lamps.  By  nets  set  in  the  lakes  under  the  ice,  a 
few  salmon  were  also  caught. 

After  passing  a  very  stormy  winter,  with  the  tem- 
perature occasionally  47°  below  freezing  point,  and 
often  an  allowance  of  but  one  meal  a  day,  toward  the 
end  of  February  preparatic  ^s  for  resuming  their  sur- 
veys in  the  spring  were  made.  Sleds,  similar  to  those 
used  by  the  natives,  were  constructed.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  March  the  reindeer  began  to  migrate  north- 
ward, but  were  very  shy.  One  was  shot  on  the  11th. 
Dr.  Rae  set  out  on  the  5th  of  April,  in  company 
with  three  men  and  two  Esquimaux  as  interpreters, 
their  provisions  and  bedding  being  drawn  on  sleds  by 
four  dogs.  Nothing  worthy  of  notice  occurs  in  this 
exploratory  trip,  till  on  the  18th  Rae  came  in  sight  of 
Lord  Mayor's  Bay,  and  the  group  of  islands  with  which 
it  is  studded.  The  isthmus  which  connects  the  hind 
to  the  northward  with  Boothia,  he  found  to  be  only  about 
a  mile  broad.  On  their  return  tlie  party  fortunately  fell 
in  with  four  Esquimaux,  from  wliom  they  obtained  n 
quantity  of  seal's  blubber  for  fuel  and  dog's  food,  and 
some  of  the  flesh  and  blood  for  their  own  use,  enougli 
to  maintain  them  for  six  davs  on  half  allowance. 

All  the  party  were  more  or  less  affected  with  snow 
blindness,  but  arrived  at  their  winter  quarters  in  Ke- 
pulse  Bay  on  the  5th  of  May,  all  safe  and  well,  but  as 
black  as  negroes,  from  the  combined  effects  of  frost- 
bites and  oil  smoke. 


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DB.  JOHN   KAE's    LAI«)    EXPEDITION. 


195 


On  the  evening  of  tlie  IStli  May,  Dr.  Tlae  again 
started  with  a  clio>en  party  of  foiii*  men,  to  trace  the 
west  shore  of  Melville  peninsula.  Each  of  the  men 
carried  about  TO  lbs.  weight. 

Being  unable  to  obtiiin  a  drop  of  water  of  nature's 
thawing,  and  fuel  being  ratlier  a  scarce  article,  tliey 
wei'e  obliged  to  take  small  kettles  of  snow  under  the 
blankets  with  them,  to  thaw  by  the  heat  of  the  body. 

Having  reached  to  about  69°  42'  N.  lat.,  and  85°  8' 
long.,  and  their  provisions  being  nearly  exhausted, 
they  were  obliged,  much  to  their  disappointment,  to 
turn  back,  when  only  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Ilecla 
and  Fury  Strait.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  30th 
of  May,  the  party  arrived  at  their  snow  hut  on  Cape 
Thomas  Simpson.  The  men  they  had  left  there  were 
well,  but  verv  thin,  as  thev  had  neither  caug-ht  nor 
shot  any  thing  eatable,  except  two  marmots,  and  they 
were  preparing  to  cook  a  j)iece  of  parchment  skin  for 
their  supper. 

"  Our  journey,"  says  Dr.  Kae,  "  hitherto  had  been 
the  most  fatiguing  I  had  ever  experienced ;  the  severe 
exercise,  with  a  limited  allowance  of  food,  had  reduced 
the  whole  party  very  much.  However,  we  marched 
merrily  on,  tightening  our  belts  —  mine  came  in  six 
inches  —  the  men  vowing  that  when  they  got  on  full 
allowance,  they  would  make  U])  for  lost  time." 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  June,  they  arrived  at 
their  encampment  in  Kepulse  Bay,  after  being  absent 
twenty-seven  days.  The  w^hole  party  then  set  actively 
to  work  procuring  food,  collecting  fuel,  and  preparing 
the  boats  for  sea;  and  the  ice  in  the  bay  having  broken 
up  on  the  11th  of  August,  on  the  12th  they  left  their 
winter  quarters,  and  after  encountering  head  winds 
and  stormy  weather,  reached  Churchill  Biver  on  the 
31st  of  August. 

A  gratuity  of  400Z.  was  awarded  o  Mr.  Bae,  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for  the  *  'iportant  services  he 
had  thus  rendered  to  the  cause    i'  science. 


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196 


PROGRESS   OF   ARUTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Captain  Sir  John  Franklin's  Last  Expedition* 

1845-51. 

That  Sir  John  Franklin,  now  nearly  six  years  ab- 
sent, is  alive,  we  dare  not  affirm ;  but  that  his  ships 
should  be  so  utterly  annihilated  that  no  trace  of  them 
can  be  discovered,  or  if  they  have  been  so  entirely 
lost,  that  not  a  single  life  should  have  been  saved  to 
relate  the  disaster,  and  that  no  traces  of  the  crew  or 
vessels  should  have  been  met  with  by  the  Esquimaux, 
or  the  exploring  parties  who  have  visited  and  investi- 
gated those  coasts,  and  bays,  and  inlets  to  so  consid- 
erable an  extent,  is  a  most  extraordinary  circumstance. 
It  is  the  general  belief  of  those  officers  who  have 
served  in  the  former  arctic  expeditions,  that  whatever 
accident  may  have  befallen  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
they  cannot  wholly  have  disappeared  from  those  seas, 
and  that  some  traces  of  their  fate,  if  not  some  living 
remnant  of  their  crews,  must  eventually  reward  the 
search  of  the  diligent  investigator.  It  is  possible  that 
tliey  may  be  found  in  quarters  the  least  expected. 
There  is  still  reason,  then,  for  hojpe^  and  for  the  great 
and  honorable  exertions  which  that  divine  spark  in 
the  soul  has  prompted  and  still  keeps  alive. 

"There  is  something,"  says  the  Athenaeum,  "in- 
tensely interesting  in  the  picture  of  those  dreary  seas 
amid  whose  strange  and  unspeakable  solitudes  our  lost 
countrymen  are,  or  have  been,  somewhere  imprisoned 
for  so  many  years,  swarming  with  the  human  life  that 
is  risked  to  set  them  free.  JSTo  haunt  was  ever  so  ex- 
citing—  so  full  of  a  wild  grandeur  and  a  profound 
patlios  —  as  that  w^hich  had  just  aroused  the  arctic 
echoes  ;  that  wherein  their  brothers  and  companions 
have  been  beating  for  the  track  by  which  they  may 
rescue  tlie  lost  mariners  from  the  icy  grasp  of  the  Ge- 
;.ius  of  the  North.  Fancy  these  men  in  their  adaman 
tine  prison,  wherever  it  may  bo,  —  chained  up  by  the 
polar  spirit  whom  they  had  dared,  —  lingering  through 
years  of  cold  and  darkness  on  the  stinted  ration  that 
scarcely  feeds  the  blood,  and   the  feeble  hope  that 


FJjAMa,UN  s  LAar  expedition. 


197 


scarcely  sustains  the  heart,  —  and  then  imagine  the  rusli 
of  emotions  to  greet  the  first  cry  tV'^u  mat  wild  hunting 
ground  which  should  reach  th>;.i  ears!     Through  many 
summers   has   that   cry  '.jeen  listened   for,  no  doubt. 
Sometliing  like  an  expectation  of  the  rescue  which  it 
sliould  announce  has  revived  with  each  returning  sea- 
son of  comparative  light,  to  die  of  its  own  baffled  in- 
tensity as  the  long  dark  months  once  more  settled  down 
upon  their  dreary  prison-house.  —  There  is  scarcely  a 
doubt  that  the  track   being  now  struck,  these  long- 
pining  hearts  may  be  traced  to  their  lair.     But  what  to 
f)ie  anxious  questioning  which  has  year  by  year  gone 
forth  in  search  of  their  fate,  will  be  the  answer  now 
revealed  ?    The  trail  is  found,  —  but  what  of  the  weary 
feet  that  made  it?    We  are  not  willing  needlessly  to 
alarm  the  public  sympathies,  which  have  been  so  gene- 
rously stirred  on  behalf  of  the  missing  men,  —  but  we 
are  bound  to  warn  our  readers  against  too  sanguine  an 
entertainment  of  the  hope  which  the  first  tidings  of  the 
recent  discovery  is  calculated  to  suggest.     It  is  scarcely 
possible  that  the  provisions  which  are  sufficient  for  three 
years,  and   adaptable  for  four,  can  by  any  economy 
which  implies  less  than  starvation  have  been  spread 
over  five,  —  and  scarcely  probable  that  they  can  have 
been  made  to  do  so  by  the  help  of  any  accidents  which 
the  place  of  confinement  supplied.     We  cannot  hear  of 
this  sudden  discovery  of  traces  of  the  vanished  crews  as 
living  men,  without  a  wish  v/hich  comes  'ike  a  pan^ 
that  it  had  been  two  years  ago  —  or  even  ast  year.    It 
makes  the  heart  sore  to  think  how  close  re  ^ef  may  have 
been  to  their  hiding-place  in  former  yef.rs  —  when  it 
turned  away.    There  is  scarcely  reason  to  doubt  that 
had  the  present  circumstances  of  the  search  occurred 
two  years   ago  —  last  year  perhaps  —  the   wanderers 
would   have  been   restored.     Another  year  makes   a 
tVio-htful  diiference  in  the  odds  :  —  and  we  do  not  think 
the  public  will  ever  feel  satisfied  with  what  has  been 
(lone  in  this  matter  if  the  oracle  so  long  questioned,  and 
silent  so  long,  shall  speak  at  last  —  and  the  answer  shall 
be, '  It  is  too  late.'  " 


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PROGRESS    OF   AKOl'IO   DISCOVERY. 


In  tlie  prosecution  of  the  noble  enterprise  on  which 
all  eyes  are  now  turned,  it  is  not  merely  scientific  ro- 
eearcli  and  geographical  discovery  that  are  at  jjresent 
occupying  the  attention  of  the  commanders  of  vessels 
sent  out  ;  the  li'  of  human  beini]js  are  at  stake,  and 
above  all,  the  lives  of  men  who  liave  nobly  periled 
every  thing  in  the  cause  of  national  —  nay,  of  universal 
l^rogress  and  knowledge  ;  —  of  men  who  have  evinced 
on  this  and  other  expeditions  the  most  dauntless  bra- 
very that  any  men  can  evince.  Who  can  think  of  the 
probable  fate  of  these  gallant  adventurers  without  a 
shudder? 

Alas !  how  truthfully  has  Montgomery  depicted  the 
fatal  imprisonment  of  vessels  in  these  regions  :  — 

There  lies  a  vessel  in  that  realm  of  frost, 
Not  wrecked,  not  stranded,  yet  forever  lost ; 
Its  keel  embedded  in  the  solid  mass  ; 
Its  glistening  sails  appear  e:;panded  glass ; 
The  tiansverse  ropes  with  -^earls  enormous  sti'ung^ 
The  yards  with  icicles  grotesquely  hung. 
Wrapt  i  11  the  topmast  shrouds  there  rests  a  boy, 
His  old  sea-faring  father's  only  joy  ; 
Sprung  from  a  race  of  rovers,  ocean  bom, 
Nursed  at  the  helm,  he  trod  dry  land  with  scorn  , 
Through  fourscore  years  from  poit  to  port  he  veer'd ; 
Quicksand,  nor  rock,  nor  foe,  nor  tempest  feai''d; 
Now  cast  ashore,  though  like  a  hulk  he  lie, 
His  son  at  sea  is  ever  in  his  eye. 
He  ne'er  shall  know  in  his  Northumbrian  cot, 
How  brief  that  son's  career,  how  strange  his  lot ; 
Writhed  round  the  mast,  aud  sepulchred  in  air. 
Him  shall  no  worm  devour,  no  vulture  tear ; 
Congeal'd  to  adamant  his  frame  shall  last. 
Though  empires  change,  till  tide  and  time  be  past 
Morn  shall  return,  and  noon,  and  eve,  and  night 
Meet  here  with  interchanging  shade  and  light ; 
But  from  tliat  barque  no  timber  shall  decay. 
Of  these  cold  forms  no  feature  pass  away ; 
Perennial  ice  around  th'  encrusted  bow, 
The  peopled-deck,  and  full-rigg'd  mast  shall  grow 
Till  fiom  the  sun  iiimself  the  whole  be  hid. 
Or  spied  beneath  a  crystal  pyramid  : 
As  in  pure  amber  with  divergent  lines, 
A  rugged  shell  embossed  with  sea-weed,  shines, 
From  age  to  age  increased  with  annual  snow. 
This  now  Mont  Blanc  among  the  clouds  may  glow. 
Whose  conic  peak  that  earliest  greets  the  dawn. 
And  latest  from  the  sun's  shut  eye  withdrawn, 


m-i' 


FRANKLIN'S   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


199 


Shall  fiom  the  Zenith,  through  incumbent  gloom, 
Burn  like  n  lump  uj)on  this  ntival  tomb. 
But  when  th'  archangel's  triimpet  sounds  on  high, 
The  pile  shall  burnt  to  atoms  through  the  sky, 
And  leave  its  dead,  upstarting  at  the  call, 
Naked  and  pale,  before  the  Judge  of  all. 

All  who  read  these  pages  will,  I  am  sure,  feel  the 
deepest  sympatJiy  and  admiration  of  the  zeal,  persever- 
ance, and  conjugal  affection  displayed  in  the  noble  and 
untiring  efforts  of  Lady  Franklin  to  relieve  or  to  dis- 
cover the  fate  of  her  distinguished  husband  and  the  gal- 
lant party  under  his  command,  despite  the  difficulties, 
disappointments,  and  heart-sickening  "hope  deferred" 
with  which  these  efforts  have  been  attended.  All  men 
must  feel  a  lively  interest  in  the  fate  cf  these  bold  men, 
and  be  most  desirous  to  contribute  toward  their  resto- 
ration to  their  country  and  their  homes.  The  name  of 
the  present  Lady  Franklin  is  as  "familiar  as  a  house- 
hold word  "  in  every  bosom  in  England  ;  she  is  alike 
the  object  of  our  admiration,  our  sympathy,  our  hopes, 
and  our  prayers.  Nay,  her  name  and  that  of  her  hus- 
band is  breathed  in  prayer  in  many  lands  —  and,  oh! 
how  earnest,  how  zealous,  how  courageous,  have  been 
her  efforts  to  find  and  relieve  her  husband,  for,  like 
Desdemona, 

"She  loved  him  for  the  dangers  he  had  passed, 
And  he  loved  her  that  she  did  pity  them." 

How  has  she  traversed  from  ]3ort  to  port,  bidding  "God 
ppeed  their  mission  "  to  each  public  and  private  ship 
going  forth  on  the  noble  errand  of  mercy  —  how  freely 
and  promptly  lias  she  contributed  to  their  comforts. 
How  has  she  watched  each  arrival  from  the  north, 
scanned  each  stray  paragraph  of  news,  hurried  to  tlie 
Admiralty  on  each  rumor,  and  kept  up  witli  unremit- 
ting labor  a  voluminous  correspondence  with  all  tlie 
quarters  of  the  globe,  fondly  wishing  that  she  had  the 
\vino;s  of  the  dove,  that  she  miirht  flee  awav,  and  be 
with  him  from  whom  Heaven  has  seen  fit  to  separate 
her  so  long. 

An  American  poet  well  depicts  her  sentiments  in  the 
following  lines : — 


1     ll  1..  "  "'" '  ■  * 

;'  ill'' 


••■Ii|*     j 

tlj'     " 


>• 


I 


li 


.    <     I      :      ) 
■     1 


HI 


li 


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1  li 


1^ 


1 


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K 


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m 


MM 


200  I'Kouinoss  of  auotiu  discovkkt. 

LADY  FRANKLIN'S  APPEAL  TO  THE  NORTH. 

Oh,  where,  my  long  lost-one  I  ait  thou, 

'Mid  Arctic  seas  uiid  wintry  skies? 
Deep,  Polar  nif^Iit  is  on  me  now, 

And  Hope,  long  wrecked,  but  mocks  my  cno8 
I  am  like  thee  !  from  frozen  plains 

In  the  drear  zone  and  sunless  air, 
My  dying,  lonely  heart  complains, 

Aud  chills  in  sorrow  and  despair. 

Tell  me,  ye  Northern  winds  !  that  sweep 

Down  from  the  rayless,  dusky  day  — 
"Where  ye  have  borne,  and  where  ye  keep, 

My  well-beloved  within  your  sway; 
Tell  me,  when  next  ye  wildly  bear 

The  icy  message  in  your  breath, 
Of  my  beloved  I    Oh  tell  me  where 

Ye  keep  hira  on  the  shores  of  death. 

Tell  me,  ye  Polar  seas !  that  roll 

From  ice-bound  shore  to  sunny  isle— ■ 
Tell  me,  when  next  ye  leave  the  Pole, 

Where  ye  have  chained  my  lord  the  while! 
On  the  bleak  Northern  clifF  I  wait 

With  tear-pained  eyes  to  see  ye  come  I 
Will  ye  not  tell  me,  ere  too  late  ? 

Or  will  ye  mock  while  I  am  dumb  ? 

Tell  me,  oh  tell  me,  mountiiin  waves  I 

Whence  have  ye  leaped  and  sprung  to-day  t 
Have  ye  passed  o'er  their  sleeping  graves 

That  ye  rush  wildly  on  your  way  ? 
Will  ye  sweep  on  ana  bear  me  too 

Down  to  the  caves  within  the  deep  ? 
Oh,  bring  some  token  to  my  view 

That  ye  my  loved  one  safe  will  keep  I 

Canst  thou  not  tell  me,  Polar  Star  I 

Where  in  the  frozen  waste  he  kneels  T 
And  on  the  icy  plains  afar 

His  love  to  God  and  me  reveals  ? 
Wilt  thou  not  send  one  brighter  ray 

To  my  lone  heart  and  aching  eye? 
Wilt  tliou  not  turn  my  night  to  cfay. 

And  wake  my  spirit  ere  I  die  ? 

Tell  rae,  oh  dreary  North  I  for  now 

My  soul  is  like  thine  Arctic  zone; 
Beneath  the  darkened  skies  I  bow. 

Or  ride  the  stormy  sea  alone  1 
Tell  me  of  my  beloved  !  for  I 

Know  not  a  ray  my  lord  without  I 
Oh,  tell  me,  that  I  may  not  die 

A  sorrower  on  tlu^  soa  of  doubt  I 


IIP  1 


FKANKLIN  8    LAST   EXrEDITION. 


201 


In  the  early  part  of  1849,  Sir  E.  Parry  stated,  thai 
in  offering  his  opinions,  he  did  so  under  a  deep  sense 
of  the  anxious  and  even  painful  responsibility,  both  as 
regarded  the  risk  of  life,  as  well  as  the  inferior  consid- 
eration of  expense  involv^ed  in  further  attempts  to  res 
cue  our  gallant  countrymen,  or  at  least  the  surviving 
portion  of  them,  from  their  perilous  position. 

But  it  was  his  deliberate  conviction,  that  the  time 
liad  not  yet  arrived  when  the  attempt  ought  to  be  given 
up  as  hopeless  :  the  further  efforts  nuiking  might  also 
be  tlie  means  of  determining  their  fate,  and  whether  it 
pleased  God  to  give  success  to  those  efforts  or  not,  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty,  and  the  country  at  large,  would 
hereafter  be  better  satisfied  to  have  followed  up  the 
noble  attempts  already  made,  so  long  as  the  most  dis- 
tant hope  remains  of  ultimate  success. 

In  the  absence  of  authentic  information  of  the  fate 
of  the  gallant  band  of  adventurers,  it  has  been  well 
observed,  the  terra  incognita  of  the  northern  coast  of 
Arctic  America,  will  not  only  be  traced,  but  minutely 
surveyed,  and  the  solution  of  the  problem  of  centuries 
will  engage  the  marked  attention  of  the  House  of  Com- 
mons, and  the  legislative  assemblies  of  other  parts  of 
the  world.  The  problem  is  very  safe  in  their  hands,  so 
safe  indeed  that  two  years  will  not  elapse  before  it  is 
solved. 

The  intense  anxiety  and  apprehension  now  so  gener- 
ally entertained  for  the  safety  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
and  the  crews  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  under  bis  com- 
mand, who,  if  still  in  existence,  are  now  passing  through 
the  severe  ordeal  of  a  fifth  winter,  in  those  inclement 
regions,  imperatively  call  for  every  available  effort  to 
be  made  for  their  rescue  from  a  position  so  perilous  ; 
and  as  long  as  one  possible  avenue  to  that  position  re- 
mains unsearched,  the  country  will  not  feel  satisfied 
that  every  thing  has  been  done,  which  perseverance 
and  experience  can  accomplish,  to  dispel  the  mystery 
which  at  present  surrounds  their  fate. 

Capt.  Sir  James  Ross  having  returned  successful  from 
iiifi  antarctic  expedition  in  tlie  close  of  the  preceding 


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202 


PROGRESS    OK   -A     TTIO    I)ISC<:)VERY. 


year,  in  the  Piiriri^  of  1845,  the  Lords  (yomnusflioncrs 
of  tlie  Admiralty,  upon  tlie  reconiniendation  of  Sir 
John  Barrow,  determined  on  sending  out  another  ex- 
pedition to  tlie  North  Pole. 

Accord  in fijly  the  command  was  civen  to  Sir  John 
Tr'iuklin,  who  re-coinmissioned  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
the  two  vessels  which  liad  just  returned  from  the  Soutli 
Polar  Seas.  The  expedition  sailed  from  Sheerness  on 
the  20th  of  May,  1845.  The  following  are  the  officers 
belonging  to  these  vessels,  and  for  whose  safety  so  deep 
an  interest  is  now  felt : — 

Erehus. 

Captain  —  Sir  John  Franklin,  K.  C.  H. 
Commander  —  James  Fitzjames,  (Capt.) 
Lieutenants  —  Graham  Gore,  (Commander,)  Henry 

T.  D.  Le  Vesconte,  James  William  Fairnolme. 
Mates  —  Chas.  F.  des  Vaux,  (Lieut.,)  liobert  O'Sar- 

gent,  (Lieut.) 
Second  Master  —  Henry  F.  Collins. 
Surgeon  —  Stephen  S.  Stanley. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Harry  D.  S.  Goodsir,  (acting.) 
Paymaster  and  Purser  —  Chas.  H.  Osmer. 
Ice-master  —  James  Keid,  acting. 
58  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Full  Complement,  70. 

Terror, 

Captain  —  Frap  ""l.  M.  Crozier. 

Lieutenants  —  Edward  Little,  (Commander,)  Geo.  H. 

Hodgson,  John  Irving. 
Mates — Frederick  J.  Hornby,  (Lieutenant,)  Robert 

Thomas,  (Lieut.) 
Ice-master  —  T.  Blanky,  (acting.) 
Second  Master  —  G.  A.  Maclean. 
Surgeon  —  John  S.  Peddie. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Alexander  McDonald. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  Edwin  J.  H.  Helpman. 
57  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Full  Complement,  68. 


tenant, 

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FRANKLIN  8    IJiST   EXPEDITION. 


203 


Those  ofiieors  wlioso  rank  is  wi'tliiii  parentliosis  have 
bet'ii  proinutod  durin;^  tlicir  absciico. 

The  following  is  an  uiitlino  of  Cant.  Franklin's  ser- 
vices as  re{M)i'<U'(l  in  OMJyrnt'^s  Naval  l^iography  : — 

Sir  John  Franklin,  Kt.,  K.  K.  (I.,  K.  C.  II.,  I).  C.  L., 
F.  li.  S.,  was  born  in  1780,  at  kSi)ilsby,  in  J.inculnshire, 
and  is  brother  of  the  late  Sir  W.  Franklin,  Kt.,  C'hief 
Justice  of  Madras.     Ho  entered  the  navy  in  October, 
1800,  as  a  boy  on  board  the  I*oly[)hcinus,  04,  Captain 
John  Lawford,  under  whom  lie  served  as  midshipman 
ill  the  action  ofl'  Copenhagen,  2d  of  A])ril,  1801.     llo 
then  sailed  with  Captain  Flinders,  in  H.  M.  sloop  In- 
vestigator, on  a  voya<^e  of  discovery  to  New  IJolland, 
joining  there  the  armed  store-ship  Porpoise  ;  he  was 
wrecked  on  a  coral  reef  near  Cato  Bank  on  the  17th  of 
August,  1803.     I  shall  not  follow  him  through  all  his 
subsequent  period  of  active  naval  service,  in  which  he 
displayed  conspicuous  zeal  and  activity.     But  we  find 
hiin  taking  part  at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  on  the  21st 
of  October,  1805,  on  board  the  Bcllerophon,  where  he 
was  signal  midshipman.     He  was  coniirmed  as  Lieu- 
tenant, on  board  the  Bedford,  74,  11th  of  February, 
1808,  and  he  then  escorted  the  loyal  family  of  Portugal, 
from  Lisbon  to  South  America.     He  was  engaged  in 
very  arduous  services  during   the  expedition  against 
New  Orleans,  in  the  close  of  1814,  and  was  slfghtly 
wounded  in  boat  service,  and  for  his  brilliant  services  on 
this  occasion,  was  warmly  and  officially  recommended 
for  promotion.     On  the  14th  of  January,  1818,  he  as- 
eumed  command  of  the  hired  brig  Trent,  in  which  he 
accompanied  Captain  D.  Buchan,  of  the  Dorothea,  on 
the  perilous  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  neighborhood 
of  Spitzbergen,  which  I  have  fully  recorded  elsewhere. 
In  April,  1819,  having  paid  off  the  Trent  in  the  pre- 
ceding November,  he  was  invested  with  the  conduct 
of  an  expedition  destined  to  proceed  overland  from  the 
shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  for  the  purpose  more  particu- 
larly of  ascertaining  the  actual  position  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Coppermine  Kiver,  and  the  exact  trending  of  the 
shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  to  the  eastward  of  that  river. 


,i  >.,(,,.,ii;5». 
,  ■«i...i'*..i 


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204 


PKOGKEaS   OF    AltCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


J 

V  MA  i 


i'M^ 


■       ^:|'! 


The  details  this  fearful  undertaking,  which  en- 
dured  until  tht.  oammer  of  1822,  and  in  the  course  of 
which,  he  readied  as  far  as  Point  Turnagain,  in  latitude 
68°  19'  K,  and  longitude  109°  25'  W.,  and  effected  a 
journey  altogether  of  5550  miles,  Captain  Franklin 
has  ably  set  forth  in  his  "  ^Narrative  of  a  Journey  to 
the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  in  the  year  1819-22,"  and 
which  I  have  abridged  in  preceding  pages.  He  was 
promoted  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  on  the  1st  of 
January,  1821,  and  reached  his  post  rank  on  the  20th 
of  November,  1822.  On  the  16th  of  February,  1825, 
this  energetic  officer  again  left  England  on  another  ex- 
l)edition  to  the  Frozen  Regions,  having  for  its  object  a 
co-operation  with  Captains  F.  W.  Beechey,  and  W.  E. 
Parry,  ^'n  ascertaining  from  opposite  quarters  the  ex- 
istence of  a  northwest  passage.  The  results  of  this 
mission  will  be  found  in  detail  in  Captain  Franklin's 
"Narrative  of  a  Second  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  the 
Polar  Sea,  in  1825-7." 

On  his  return  to  England,  where  he  arrived  on  the 
26th  of  Sept.,  1827,  Franklin  was  presented  by  the 
Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  with  a  gold  medal  val- 
ued at  1200  francs,  for  having  made  the  most  important 
acquisitions  to  geographical  Knowledge  during  the  pre- 
ceding year,  and  on  the  29th  of  April,  1829,  he  received 
the  honor  of  knighthood,  besides  being  awarded  in  July 
following  the  Oxford  degree  of  a  D.  C.  L. 

From  1830  to  1834,  he  was  in  active  service  in  com- 
mand of  II.  M.  S.  Rainbow,  on  the  Mediterranean  sta- 
tion, ;  nd  for  his  exertions  during  that  period  as  con- 
nected with  the  troubles  in  Greece,  was  presented  with 
the  order  of  the  Redeemer  of  Greece.  Sir  John  was 
created  a  K.  C.  H.  on  the  25th  of  January,  1836,  and 
was  for  some  time  Governor  of  Yan  Diemen's  Land. 
He  married,  on  the  16th  of  Augusl;,  1823,  Eleanor 
Anne,  youngest  daughter  of  W.  Porden,  Esq.,  architect, 
of  Berners  Street,  London,  and  secondly,  on  the  5th  of 
November,  1828,  Jane,  second  daugnter  of  John  Grif- 
fin, Esq.,  of  Bedford  Place. 

Captain  Crozier  was  in  all  Parry's  expeditions,  hav- 


"rr- 


FRANKLLNS   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


206 


ing  been  midshipman  in  the  Fury  in  1821,  in  the 
Hecla  in  1824,  went  out  as  Lieutenant  in  the  Hecla, 
with  Parry,  on  his  boat  expedition  to  the  Pole  in  1827, 
volunteered  in  183G  to^o  out  in  search  of  the  missing 
whalers  and  their  crews  to  Davis'  Straits,  was  made  a 
Captain  in  1841,  and  was  second  in  command  of  the 
antarctic  expedition  under  Sir  James  Ross,  and  on  his 
return,  appointed  to  the  Terror,  as  second  in  command 
under  Franklin. 

Lieutenant  Gore  served  as  a  mate  in  the  last  fearful 
voyage  of  the  Terror,  under  Back,  and  was  also  with 
Eoss  in  the  antarctic  expedition.  He  has  attained  his 
commander's  rank  during  his  absence. 

Lieutenant  Fairholme  was  in  the  Niger  exj)edition. 

Lieutenant  Little  has  also  been  promoted  during  his 
absence,  and  so  have  all  the  mates. 

Commander  Fitzjames  is  a  brave  and  gallant  officer, 
who  has  seen  much  service  in  the  East,  and  has  attained 
to  his  post  rank  since  his  departure. 

The  Terror,  it  may  be  remembered,  is  the  vessel  in 
which  Captain  Sir  G.  Back  made  hi&  perilous  attempt 
to  reach  Repulse  Bay,  in  1836. 

The  Erebus  and  Terror  were  not  expected  home  un- 
less success  had  early  rewarded  their  efforts,  or  some 
casualty  hastened  their  return,  before  the  close  of  1847, 
nor  were  any  tidings  anticipated  from  them  in  the  in- 
terval ;  but  when  trie  autumn  of  1847  arrived,  without 
any  intelligence  of  the  sliips,  the  attention  of  H.  M. 
Government  was  directed  to  the  necessity  of  searching 
for,  and  conveying  relief  to  them,  in  case  of  their  being 
imprisoned  in  the  ice,  or  wrecked,  and  in  want  of  pro- 
visions and  means  of  transport. 

For  this  purpose  a  searching  expedition  in  three 
divisions  was  fitted  out  by  the  government,  in  the  early 
part  of  1848.  The  investigation  was  directed  to  three 
different  quarters  simultaneously,  viz  :  1st,  to  that  by 
which,  in  case  of  success,  the  ships  would  come  out  of 
the  Polar  Sea,  to  the  westward,  or  Behring's  Straits. 
This  consisted  of  a  single  ship,  the  Plover,  commanded 
by  Captain  Moore,  which  left  England  in  the  latter  end 


'.'^.■^'■> 

:::;::■  ij' 

it"'    '• 
.,«n..,].J;  7!; 


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206 


rROOKESS    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERT. 


"I 


of  January,  for  the  purpose  of  entering  Behring's  Strait. 
It  was  intended  that  she  should  arrive  there  in  the 
month  of  July,  and  having  looked  out  for  a  winter  har- 
bor, she  might  send  out  her  boats  northward  and  east- 
ward, in  which  directions  the  discovery  ships,  if  suc- 
cessful, would  be  met  with.  The  Plover,  however,  in 
her  first  season,  never  even  approached  the  place  of  her 
destination,  owing  to  her  setting  oiF  too  late,  and  to  her 
bad  sailing  properties. 

ller  subsequent  proceedings,  and  those  of  her  boats 
along  the  coast,  will  be  found  narrated  in  after  pages. 

The  second  division  of  the  expedition  was  one  of 
boats,  to  explore  the  coast  of  the  Arctic  Sea  between 
the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Rivers,  or  from  the 
135th  to  the  115th  degree  of  W.  longitude,  together 
with  the  south  coast  of  AVollaston  Land,  it  being  sup- 
posed, that  if  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  had  been  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  ships  and  take  to  the  boats,  they 
would  make  for  this  coast,  whence  they  could  reach  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts.  This  party  was  placed 
under  the  command  of  the  faithful  friend  of  Franklin, 
and  the  companion  of  his  former  travels.  Dr.  Sir  John 
Richardson,  who  landed  at  New  York  in  April,  1848, 
and  hastened  to  join  his  men  and  boats,  which  were 
already  in  advance  toward  the  arctic  shore.  He  was, 
however,  unsuccessful  in  his  search. 

The  remaining  and  most  important  portion  of  this 
searching  expedition  consisted  of  two  ships  under  the 
command  of  Sir  James  Ross,  which  sailed  in  May,  1848, 
for  the  locality  in  which  Franklin's  ships  entered  on 
this  course  of  discovery,  viz.,  the  eastern  side  of  Davis' 
Straits.  These  did  not,  however,  succeed,  owing  to  the 
state  of  the  ice  in  getting  into  Lancaster  Sound  until 
the  season  for  operations  had  nearly  closed.  These  ships 
wintered  in  the  neighborhood  of  Leopold  Island,  Regent 
Inlet,  and  missing  the  store-ship  sent  out  with  pro- 
visions and  fuel,  to  enable  them  to  stop  out  another 
year,  were  driven  out  through  the  Strait  by  the  pack 
of  ice,  and  returned  home  unsuccessful.  The  subse- 
quent expeditions  consequent  upon  the  failure  of  the 


FliANKLIN  8    LAST    EXPKDITION. 


207 


foregoing  will  be  found  fully  detailed  and  narrated  in 
their  proper  order. 

Among  the  number  of  volunteers  for  the  service  of 
exploration,  in  the  difterent  searching  expeditions,  were 
the  following: — Mr.  Chas.  Eeid,  lately  commanding 
the  whaling  ship  Pacilic,  and  brother  to  the  ice-master 
on  board  the  Erebus,  a  man  of  great  experience  and 
resi 


The  Kev.  Joseph  Wolff,  who  went  to  Bokhara  in 
search  of  Capt.  Conolly  and  Col.  Stoddart. 

Mr.  John  McLean,  who  had  passed  twenty-five  years 
as  an  officer  and  partner  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  who  has  recently  published  an  interesting  narra- 
tive of  his  experience  in  the  northwest  regions. 

Dr.  Richard  King,  who  accompanied  Capt.  Back  in 
his  land  journey  to  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Fish  River. 

Lieut.  Sherard  Osborn,  R.  N.,  who  had  recently  gone 
out  in  the  Pioneer,  tender  to  the  Resolute. 

Commander  Forsyth,  R.  N.,  who  volunteered  for  all 
the  expeditions,  and  was  at  last  sent  out  by  Lady  Frank- 
lin in  the  Prince  Albert. 

Dr.  McCormick,  R.  N.,  who  served  under  Captain  Sir 
E.  Parry,  in  the  attempt  to  reach  the  North  Pole,  in  1827, 
who  twice  previously  volunteered  his  services  in  1847. 

Capt.  Sir  John  Ross,  who  has  gone  out  in  the  Felix, 
fitted  out  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  by  pri- 
vate subscriptions ;  and  many  others. 

Up  to  the  present  time  no  intelligence  of  any  kind 
lias  been  received  respecting  the  expedition,  and  its 
fate  is  now  exciting  the  most  intense  anxiety,  not  only 
on  the  part  of  the  British  government  and  public,  but 
of  the  whole  civilized  world.  The  maratime  powers  of 
Europe  and  the  United  States  are  vying  with  each  other 
IS  to  who  shall  be  the  first  to  discov^'r  some  trace  of  the 
nissing  navigators,  and  if  they  be  still  alive,  to  render 
.liem  assistance.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have, 
with  a  noble  liberality,  placed  all  their  available  re- 
sources of  men,  provisions,  and  the  services  of  their 
chief  and  most  experienced  traders,  at  the  disposal  of 
government.    The  Russian  authorities  have  also  given 


^TTWl^l*.. 


''■ ..■.-■•I 

;,' •■-•;3i-; 

hWnlSj  '.■•4, 


■i!:t;;:j.;::* 


.;....'if  ,; 
I'l''  ..' 


ti  t 


hI 


208 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


?  -? 


every  facility  for  diffusing  information  and  affording 
lussifetance  in  their  territories. 

In  ii  letter  from  Sir  John  Franklin  to  Colonel  Sabine, 
dated  from  the  Whale  Fish  Islands,  9th  of  July,  1845, 
after  notieing  that,  including  what  they  had  received 
from  the  transport  which  had  accompanied  them  so  far, 
the  Erebus  and  Terror  had  on  board  provisions,  fuel, 
clothing  and  stores  for  three  years  complete  from  that 
date,  i.  e.  to  July,  1848,  he  continues  as  follows: — '•] 
liope  my  dear  wife  and  daughter  will  not  be  over-anxious 
if  we  should  not  return  by  the  time  they  have  fixed  upon; 
and  I  must  beg'of  you  to  give  them  tiie  benefit  of  your 
advice  and  experience  when  that  arrives,  for  you  know 
well,  that  even  after  the  second  winter,  without  success 
in  our  object,  we  should  wish  to  try  some  other  channel, 
if  the  state  of  om*  provisions,  and  the  health  of  the 
crews  justify  it. 

Capt.  Dannett,  of  the  whaler,  Prince  of  "Wales,  while 
in  Melville  Bay,  last  saw  the  vessel  -  of  the  expedition, 
moored  to  an  iceberg,  on  the  26th  of  July,  in  lat.  T4° 
48'  N.,  long.  ^^'^  13'  W.,  waiting  for  a  favorable  open- 
ing through  the  middle  ice  from  J3aflin's  Bay  to  Lancas- 
ter Sound.  Capt.  Dannett  states  that  during  three  weeks 
after  parting  company  with  the  ships,  he  exj^erienced 
very  fine  w^eather,  and  thinks  they  would  have  made 
good  progress. 

Lieut.  Griffith,  in  command  of  the  transport  which 
accompanied  them  out  with  provisions  to  Baffin's  Bay, 
reports  that  he  left  all  hands  well  and  in  high  spirits. 
They  were  then  furnished,  he  adds,  with  every  species 
of  provisions  for  three  entire  years,  independently  of 
five  bullocks,  and  stores  of  every  description  for  the 
same  period,  with  abundance  of  fuel. 

The  following  is  Sir  John  Franklin's  official  letter 
sent  home  by  the  transport :  — 

"  Her  Majesty'' s  Ship  '  Erebus^ 
"  Whale-Fish  Islands^  12th  of  July ^  1845. 

"  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  informa- 
tion of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiraltv,  that 


FKANKLIn's    last   EXrEDITION. 


209 


her  Majesty's  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  with  the  trans- 
port, arrived  at  this  anchorage  on  the  4th  instant,  hav- 
ing had  a  passage  of  one  month  from  Stromness  :  the 
transport  was  immediately  taken  alongside  this  ship, 
tliat  she  might  be  tlie  more  readily  cleared ;  and  we 
have  been  constantly  emploj^ed  at  that  operation  till 
last  evening,  the  delay  having  been  caused  not  so 
much  in  getting  the  stores  transferred  to  either  of  the 
ships,  as  in  maldng  the  best  stowage  of  them  below, 
as  well  as  on  the  upper  deck  ;  the  ships  are  now  com- 
plete with  supplies  of  every  kind  for  three  years ;  they 
are  therefore  very  deep;  but,  happily,  we  have  no 
reason  to  expect  much  sea  as  we  proceed  farther. 

"The  magnetic  instruments  were  landed  the  same 
morning ;  so  also  were  the  other  instruments  requisite 
for  ascertaining  the  position  of  the  observatory ;  and 
it  is  satisfactory  to  iind  that  the  result  of  the  observa- 
tions for  latitude  and  longitude  accord  very  nearly 
with  those  assigned  to  the  same  place  by  Sir  Edward 
Parry;  those  for  the  dip  and  variation  are  equally  sat- 
isfactory, which  were  made  by  Captain  Crozier  with 
the  instruments  belonging  to  tlie  Terror,  and  by  Com- 
mander Fitzjames  with  those  of  the  Erebus. 

"The  ships  are  now  being  swung,  for  the  purpose 
of  ascertaining  the  dip  and  deviation  of  the  needle  on 
board,  as  was  done  at  Greenhithe,  which,  I  trust,  will 
be  completed  this  afternoon,  and  I  hope  to  be  able  to 
sail  in  the  night. 

"The  governor  and  principal  persons  are  at  this 
time  absent  from  Disco,  so  that  I  have  not  been  able 
to  receive  any  communication  from  head  quarters  as 
to  the  state  of  the  ice  to  the  north  ;  I  have,  however, 
iearnt  from  a  Danish  carpenter  in  charge  of  the  Es- 
quimaux at  these  islands,  that  though  the  winter  was 
severe,  the  spring  was  not  later  than  usual,  nor  was 
the  ice  later  in  breaking  away  hereabout ;  he  supposes 
also  that  it  is  now  loose  as  far  as  74°  latitude,  and  that 
our  prospect  is  favorable  of  getting  across  the  barrier, 
and  as  far  as  Lancaster  Sound,  without  much  obstruc- 
tion. 


■'•'•; '11, 

:ll:a.. 

M,..J 

■■■}':.}■ 


It  ] 


-ii:::  7 


•( 


Si-;;'     ui;''-' 


210 


prwOGliESS   OF   AliCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


V    t. 


"The  transport  will  sail  for  England  this  day.  1 
shall  instruct  the  agent,  Lieutenant  Griffiths,  to  pro- 
ceed  to  Deptford,  and  report  his  arrival  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Admiralty.  I  have  much  satisfaction  iu 
bearing  my  testimony  to  the  careful  and  zealous  man- 
ner in  which  Lieut.  Griffiths  has  performed  the  service 
intrusted  to  him,  and  would  beg  to  recommend  him, 
as  an  officer  who  appears  to  have  seen  much  service, 
to  the  favorable  consideration  of  their  lordships. 

"  It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  assure  their  lordships 

of  the  energy  and  zeal  of  Captain  Crozier,  Commander 

Fitzjames,  and  of  the  officers  and  men  with  whom  I 

have  the  happiness  of  being  employed  on  this  service. 

"I  have,  &c., 

(Signed)  John  Franklin,  Captain. 

"The  Eiglit  Hon.  H.  L.  Corry,  M.  P." 

It  has  often  been  a  matter  of  surprise  that  but  one 
of  the  copper  cylinders  which  Sir  John  Franklin  was 
instructed  to  throw  overboard  at  stated  intervals,  to 
record  his  progress,  has  ever  come  to  hand,  but  a  re- 
cent sight  of  the  solitary  one  which  has  been  received 
proves  to  me  that  they  are  utterly  useless  for  the 
purpose.  A  small  tube,  about  the  size  of  an  ordi- 
nary rocket-case,  is  hardly  ever  likely  to  be  observed 
among  huge  masses  of  ice,  and  the  waves  of  the  At- 
lantic and  JPacific,  unless  drifted  by  accident  on  shore, 
or  near  some  boat.  The  Admiralty  have  wisely  or- 
dered them  to  b  J  rendered  more  conspicuous  by  being 
headed  up  in  some  cask  or  barrel,  instructions  being 
issued  to  Captain  Collinson,  and  other  officers  of  the 
different  expeditions  to  that  effect. 

According  to  Sir  John  Richardson,  who  was  on  inti- 
mate terms  with  Sir  John  Franklin,  his  plans  were  to 
shape  his  course  in  the  first  instance  for  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Cape  AValker,  and  to  push  to  the  westward  in 
that  parallel,  or,  if  that  could  not  be  accomplished,  to 
make  his  way  southward,  to  the  channel  discovered  on 
the  north  coast  of  the  continent,  and  so  on  to  Behring's 
Straits  ;  failing  success  in  that  quarter,  he  meant  to  re- 
trace his  course  to  Wellington  Sound,  and  attempt  a 


:!:l';:''|.:. 


um 


iii;f. 


FliAKKLI^''8    LA<r    EXPEDITION. 


211 


passage  northward  of  Parry's  Islands,  and  if  foiled  there 
also,  to  descend  Regent  Inlet,  and  seek  the  passage 
along  the  coast  discovered  by  Messrs.  Dease  and  !Sini2> 
6on. 

Captain  Fitziames,  the  second  in  command  under 
Sir  John  Franklin,  was  much  inclined  to  try  the  pas- 
sage northward  of  Parry's  Islands,  and  he  would  no 
doubt  endeavor  to  persuade  Sir  John  to  pursue  this 
course  if  they  failed  to  the  southward. 

In  a  private  letter  of  Captain  Fitzjames  to  Sir  John 
Barrow,  dated  January,  1845,  he  writes  as  follows  :  — 

"  It  does  not  appear  clear  to  me  w^hat  led  Parry  down 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  after  having  got  as  far  as  Melville 
Island  before.  The  northwest  passage  is  certainly  to 
be  gone  through  by  Barrow's  Strait,  but  whether  south 
or  north  of  Parry'n  Group,  remains  to  be  proved.  I  am 
for  going  north,  edging  northwest  till  in  longitude  140°, 
if  possible." 

I  shall  now  pro<*-eed  to  trace,  in  chronological  order 
and  succession,  the  opinions  and  proceedings  of  the 
chief  arctic  explorers  and  public  authorities,  with  the 
private  suggestions  offered  and  notice  in  detail  the  re- 
lief expeditions  resulting  therefrom. 

In  February,  1847,  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  state, 
that  having  unlimited  confidence  in  the  skill  and  re- 
sources of  Sir  John  Franklin,  they  "  have  as  yet  felt  no 
apprehensions  about  his  safety  ;  but  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  obvious,  that  if  no  accounts  of  him  should  arrive 
by  the  end  of  this  year,  or,  as  Sir  John  Ross  expects,  at 
an  earlier  period,  active  steps  must  then  be  taken." 

Captain  Sir  Edward  Parry  fully  concurred  in  these 
views,  observing, "  Former  experience  has  clearly  shown 
that  with  the  resources  taken  from  this  country,  two 
winters  may  be  passed  in  the  polar  regions,  not  only  in 
safety,  but  wilh  comfort ;  and  if  any  inference  can  be 
drawn  from  the  absence  of  all  intelligence  of  the  expe- 
dition up  to  this  time,  I  am  disposed  to  consider  it  ra- 
tlier  in  favor  than  otherwise  of  the  success  which  has 
attended  their  efforts." 

Captain  Sir  G.  Back,  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of 

1* 


Ir 


iiii    ■'■JMlJt*' 

i;]f",.,..i«...| 


V,  •  Mil '    V 

Mi- 


212 


I'KOGKKSS   OF   AKCMIO    DISCOVEKV. 


1'^^ 


1^1 


i 


'.  1 


l!li 


tho  Admiralty,  -under  date  27th  of  January,  1848,  pays, 
*' I  cannot  brinjij  myself  to  entertain  more  than  ordi- 
nary anxiety  for  the  safety  and  return  of  Sir  Julm 
Franklin  and  his  gallant  companions." 

Captain  Sir  John  Koss  records,  in  Februarj^  1S47, 
Ids  opinion  that  the  expedition  was  frozen  up  bevond 
Melville  Island,  from  the  known  intentions  of  Sir  jdlm 
Franklin  to  put  his  ships  into  the  drift  ice  at  the  west- 
ern end  of  Melville  Island,  a  risk  which  was  deonied 
in  the  highest  degree  imprudent  by  Lieutenant  Paiiv 
and  the  otKcers  of  the  expedition  of  18J.9-20,  with 
ships  of  a  less  draught  of  water,  and  in  every  respect 
better  calculated  to  sustain  the  pressure  of  the  ice,  and 
other  dangers  to  which  they  must  be  exposed ;  and  as 
it  is  now  well  known  that  the  expedition  has  not  suc- 
ceeded in  passing  Behring's  Strait,  and  if  not  totally 
lost,  must  have  been  carried  by  the  ice  that  is  known 
to  drift  to  the  southward  on  land  seen  at  a  great  dis- 
tance in  that  direction,  and  from  which  the  accumu- 
lation of  ice  behind  them  will,  f\s  in  Ross's  own  ea-e, 
forever  prevent  the  return  of  th  j  ships  ;  consequently 
thev  must  be  abandoned.  AVhen  we  remember  with 
what  ey^'reme  difficulty  Eoss's  party  traveled  300  niilea 
over  much  smoother  ice  after  they  abandoned  their 
vessel,  it  appears  very  doubtful  whether  Franklin  and 
his  men,  138  in  number,  could  possibly  travel  60Q 
miles. 

In  the  contingency  of  the  ships  having  penetrated 
some  considerable  distance  to  the  southwest  of  Capo 
"Walker,  and  having  been  hampered  and  crushed  in  the 
narrow  channels  of  the  Archipelago,  which  there  are 
reasons  for  believing  occupies  the  space  between  Vic- 
toria, Wollaston,  and  Banks'  Lands,  it  is  well  re- 
marked by  Sir  John  Richardson,  that  such  accidents 
among  ice  are  seldom  so  sudden  but  that  the  boats  of 
one  or  of  both  ships,  with  provisions,  can  be  saved ; 
and  in  such  an  event  the  survivors  would  either  returc 
to  Lancaster  Strait,  or  make  for  the  continent,  accord 
jng  to  their  nearness. 

Colonel  Sabine  remarks,  in  a  letter  dated  WoolvicJ*, 


fkanki.in's  last  expedition. 


213 


5th  of  Mav,  1847,—"  It  was  Sir  John  Franklin's  inten- 
tion, if  foiled  at  one  point,  to  try  in  succession  all  the 
jirohable  openings  into  a  more  navigable  ])art  of  the 
Polur  Sea:  the  range  of  coast  is  considerable  in  which 
memorials  of  the  ships'  progress  would  liave  to  be 
sought  for,  extending  from  Melville  Island,  in  the  west, 
to  the  great  Sound  at  the  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,  in  the 
east." 

Sir  John  Richardson,  when  appealed  to  by  the  Admi- 
ralty in  the  spring  of  1847,  as  regarded  the  very  strong 
apprehensions  expressed  at  that  time  for  the  safety  of 
the  expedition,  considered  they  were  premature,  as  the 
ships  were  specially  equipped  to  pass  tvo  winters  in 
the  Arctic  Sea,  and  until  the  close  of  that  year,  he  saw 
no  well-grounded  cause  for  more  anxiety  than  was  nat- 
urally felt  when  the  expedition  sailed  from  this  country 
on  an  enterprise  of  peril,  though  not  greater  than  that 
which  had  repeatedly  been  encountered  by  others,  and 
on  one  occasion  by  Sir  John  Ross  for  two  winters  also, 
but  who  returned  in  safety. 

Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  in  March,  1847,  writes* 
"I  do  not  think  there  is  the  smallest  reason  for  appre- 
hension or  anxiety  lor  the  safety  and  success  of  the 
expedition ;  no  one  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Polar  Sea  would  have  expected  they 
would  have  been  able  to  get  through  to  Behring's  Strait 
without  spending  at  least  two  winters  in  those  regions, 
except  under  unusually  favorable  circumstances,  M^hich 
all  tne  accounts  from  the  whalers  concur  in  proving 
they  have  not  experienced,  and  I  am  quite  sure  neither 
Sir  John  Franklin  nor  Captain  Crozier  expected  to  do  so. 

"Their  last  letters  to  me  from  Whale  Fish  Islands, 
the  day  previous  to  their  departure  from  them  inform 
me  that  they  had  taken  on  board  provisions  for  three 
years  on  full  allowance,  which  they  could  extend  to  four 
years  without  any  serious  inconvenience ;  so  that  we 
may  feel  assured  they  cannot  want  from  that  cause  until 
after  the  middle  of  July.  1849  ;  it  therefore  does  not 
appear  to  me  at  all  desirable  to  send  after  them  until  the 
spring  of  the  next  year."  (1848.) 


i||- .1 '«•■•] 

'iijjir't;;! 

Ml  4    ''J 

H'li..!  .■'-■ 


ill!*  J 
i'W":  . 


Mr 


}:■  ■'■■ 

I. 

i 

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1     ^. ;  L.h. 

i 

ii;^' 


f    : 


2K 


PROGRESS    OF    ARCTIC    DISUOVKRY. 


fj  i 


if'-' 


In  the  plan  submitted  by  Captain  F.  W.  Beechcy, 
R.  N.,  in  April,  1847,  after  premising  "that  there  does 
not  at  present  appear  to  be  any  reasonable  apprelicii- 
sion  for  the  safety  of  the  expedition,"  he  suggested  tluit 
it  would  perhaps  be  prudent  that  a  reliet  expedition 
should  be  sent  out  that  season  to  Cape  Walker,  where 
information  of  an  important  nature  would  most  likelv 
be  found.  From  this  vicinity  one  vessel  could  proceed 
to  examine  the  various  points  and  headlands  in  llegeiit 
Inlet,  and  also  those  to  the  northward,  while  the  other 
watclied  the  passage,  so  that  Franklin  and  his  party 
might  not  pass  unseen,  should  he  be  on  his  return.  At 
the  end  of  the  season  the  ships  could  winteil*  at  Port 
Bowen,  or  any  other  port  in  the  vicinity  of  Leopold 
Island. 

"  In  the  spring  of  1848,"  he  adds,  "a  party  should  be 
directed  to  explore  the  coast,  down  to  llecla  and  Fury 
Strait,  and  to  endeavor  to  communicate  with  the  party 
dispatched  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  that  direc- 
tion ;  and  in  connection  with  this  part  of  the  arrano^e- 
ment,  it  would  render  the  plan  complete  if  a  boat  could 
be  sent  down  Back's  River  to  range  the  coast  to  the 
eastward  of  its  mouth,  to  meet  the  above  mentioned 
party  ;  and  thus,  while  it  would  complete  the  geography 
of  that  part  of  the  American  coast,  it  would  at  the  same 
time  complete  the  line  of  information  as  to  the  extensive 
measures  of  relief  which  their  lordships  have  set  on 
foot,  and  the  precise  spot  where  assistance  and  depots 
of  provisions  are  to  be  found.  This  part  of  the  plan 
has  suggested  itself  to  me  from  a  conversation  I  had 
with  Sir  John  Franklin  as  to  his  first  effort  beine:  made 
to  the  westward  and  southwestward  of  Cape  "VValker. 
It  is  possible  that,  after  passing  the  Cape,  he  may  have 
oeen  successful  in  getting  down  upon  Victoria  Land, 
and  have  passed  his  first  winter  (1845)  thereabout,  and 
diat  he  may  have  spent  his  second  winter  at  a  still  more 
advanced  station,  and  even  endured  a  third,  without 
either  a  prospect  of  success,  or  of  an  extrication  of  his 
vessels  within  a  given  pei'iod  of  time. 

"If,  in  this  condition,  which  I  trust  may  not  be  the 


OPINIONS   AND  BUOOE8TION8. 


216 


case,  Sir  John  Franklin  should  resolve  upon  taking  to 
his  boats,  he  would  prefer  attempting  a  boat  navigation 
through  Sir  James  lioss's  Strait,  and  up  Regent  Inlet, 
io  a  long  land  journey  across  the  continent,  to  the  IJud- 
Bon's  Bay  Settlements,  to  which  the  greater  part  of  his 
crew  would  be  wholly  unequal/' 

Sir  John  Richardson  remarks  upon  the  above  sugges- 
tions, on  the  5th  of  May,  1847, — "  With  respect  to  a 
party  to  be  sent  down  Back's  River  to  the  bottom  of 
Kegent  Inlet,  its  size  and  outfit  would  require  to  be 
equal  with  that  of  the  one  now  preparing  to  descend 
the  Mackenzie  River,  and  it  could  scarcely  with  the 
utmost  exertions  be  or^^anized  so  as  to  start  this  sum- 
mer. The  present  scarcity  of  provisions  in  the  Hudson's 
Bay  country  precludes  the  hope  of  assistance  from  the 
Company's  southern  posts,  and  it  is  now  too  late  to 
provide  the  means  of  transport  through  the  interior  of 
Bupplies  from  this  country,  which  require  to  be  embarked 
on  board  the  Hudson's  Bay  ships  by  the  2d  of  June  at 
the  latest. 

"  Moreover  there  is  no  Company's  post  on  the  line  ol 
Back's  River  nearer  than  the  junction  of  Slave  River 
with  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  I  do  not  think  that  under 
any  circumstances  Sir  John  Franklin  would  attempt 
that  route. 

"  In  the  summer  of  1849,  if  the  resources  of  the  party 
I  am  to  conduct  remain  unimpaired,  as  I  have  every 
reason  to  believe  they  will,  much  of  what  Capt.  Beechey 
suggests  in  regard  to  exploring  Victoria  Land  may  be 
done  by  it,  and  indeed  forms  part  of  the  original  scheme. 
The  extent  of  the  examination  of  any  part  of  the  coast 
in  1848  depends,  as  I  foraierly  stated,  very  much  on 
the  seasons  of  this  autumn  and  next  spring,  which  influ- 
ence the  advance  of  the  boats  through  a  long  course  of 
river  navigation.  As  Governor  Simpson  will  most 
likely  succeed  in  procuring  an  Esquimaux  to  accom- 
pany my  party,  I  hope  by  his  means  to  obtain  such 
information  from  parties  of  that  nation  as  may  greatly 
facilitate  our  finding  the  ships,  should  they  be  detained 
in  that  quarter. 


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210 


PKOOKKSS   OF    AUCTIC    l)I90OVEUY. 


''  Were  Sir  Jolin  Fninldin  thrown  upon  tho  north 
coast  of  the  continent  with  liis  hoiitM,  and  nil  his  cruw 
1  <lo  not  tiiiiik  lie  would  iittenii)t  tho  ttscont  of  any  river, 
excoi)t  tho  ^liickonzie.  It  is  navigal)lo  for  boats  of  lur^^e 
draught,  witliout  a  porta<j;o,  for  1300  miles  from  the 
sea,  or  within  forty  miles  of  Fort  Chipowyan,  one  nf 
tho  Company's  ju'incipal  depots,  and  the"e  are  livii 
other  posts  in  that  distance.  Thoufjfh  these  posts  could 
not  furnish  provisions  to  such  a  party,  they  could,  hy 
providing  them  with  nets,  and  distributing  the  men  to 
various  fishing  stations,  do  much  toward  procuring  food 
for  them. 

"1  concur  generally  in  what  Captain  Beechey  has 
said  with  regard  to  J3ohring's  Straits,  a  locality  witli 
which  he  is  so  intimately  ac(iuainted,  but  beg  leave  to 
add  one  remark,  viz :  that  in  high  northern  latitudes 
tho  ordinary  allowance  of  animal  food  is  insufficient  in 
the  winter  season  to  maintain  a  la])oring  man  in  health  ; 
and  as  Sir  John  Franklin  would  deem  it  prudent  when 
detained  a  second  winter  to  shorten  the  allowance, 
symj)toms  of  scurvy  may  show  themselves  among  tho 
men,  as  was  the  case  when  Sir  Edward  Parry  wintered 
two  years  in  Fox's  Channel. 

"  A  vessel,  therefore,  meeting  the  Erebus  and  Terror 
this  season  in  Behring's  Straits,  might  render  great 
service."  * 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  Bart.,  in  a  memorandum 
dated  July,  1847,  says  : — 

"  The  anxiety  that  prevails  regarding  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, and  the  brave  fellows  who  compose  the  crews  of 
the  two  ships,  is  very  natural,  but  somewhat  premature  ; 
it  arises  chiefly  from  nothing  having  been  received  from 
them  since  fixed  in  the  ice  of  Baffin's  Bay,  where  the 
last  whaling  ship  of  the  season  of  1845  left  them,  oppo* 
site  to  the  opening  into  Lancaster  Sound.  Hitherto  no 
ditliculty  has  been  found  to  the  entrance  into  that 
Sound.  If  disappointed,  rather  than  return  to  the  south- 
ward, with  the  view  of  wintering  at  or  about  Disco,  I 

•Pari.  Paper,  No.  264,  Seiwion  18tS. 


OPINIONS    AND    SUGOKSTIONS. 


217 


ehould  bo  inclinod  to  think  that  thoy  would  ondonvor  to 
eiiUT  Sinitirri  Sound,  so  lii.i,ddy  snokcn  of  by  l>:illin,  and 
which  just  now  that  «^idhint  and  adventurous  liussiati, 
Admiral  Count  Wrau'^el,  has  jutintod  out  in  a  paper 
addressed  to  the  Geo<^rai)liical  Society  as  the  Htarhn<' 
phico  for  an  attempt  to  reach  the  North  l*oUi;  it  wouhl 
appear  to  be  an  inlet  that  runs  up  hio-h  to  the  northward, 
uri  an  otKcer  in  one  of  I'arry's  snips  states  that  ho  flaw 
in  tho  line  of  direction  along  that  inlet,  the  sun  at  mid- 
nif^ht  skimming  the  horizon. 

''From  Lancaster  Sound  Franklin's  instructions  di- 
rected him  to  proceed  through  Barrow's  Strait,  as  far  a3 
the  islands  on  its  southern  side  extended,  w'dch  is  short 
of  Melville  Island,  which  was  to  bo  avoided,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  dangerous  coast,  but  also  as  being  out 
of  tho  direction  of  the  course  to  tho  intended  olitject. 
Having,  therefore,  reached  the  last  known  land  on  the 
southern  side  of  Barrow's  Strait,  they  were  to  shape 
a  direct  course  to  Behr'ng's  Strait,  without  any  devia- 
tion, except  what  obstruction  might  be  met  with  from 
ice,  or  from  islands,  in  the  midst  of  tho  Polar  Sea,  of 
which  no  knowledge  had  at  that  time  been  procured  ; 
but  if  any  such  existed,  it  would  of  course  be  left  to 
their  judgment,  on  the  spot,  how  to  get  rid  of  such  ob- 
structions, by  taking  a  northerly  or  a  southerly  course. 

"  The  only  chance  of  bringing  them  upon  this  (the 
American)  coast  is  tho  possibility  of  some  obstruction 
having  tempted  them  to  explore  an  immense  inlet  on 
the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  (short  of  Mil 
ville  Island,)  called  Wellington  Channel,  which  Parry 
felt  an  inclination  to  explore,  and  more  than  one  of 
the  present  party  betrayed  to  me  a  similar  inclination, 
which  I  discouraged,  no  one  venturing  to  conjecture 
even  to  what  extent  it  might  go,  or  into  what  difliculties 
it  might  lead. 

" TJnder  all  these  circumstances,  it  would  be  an  act 
of  folly  to  pironounce  any  opinion  of  the  state,  condi- 
tion, or  position  of  those  two  ships ;  they  are  wel]  suited 


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218 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


■i  1 


for  their  purpose,  and  the  only  doubt  I  have  is  that  of 
their  being  hampered  by  the  screws  among  the  ice." 

Sir  James  C.  boss,  in  his  outline  of  a  plan  for  afford- 
ing relief,  submitted  to  the  Admiralty  in  December, 
1847,  sugcjested  that  two  ships  should  be  sent  out  to 
examine  Wellington  Channel,  alluded  to  in  the  forego- 
ing  memorandum  of  Sir  John  Barrow,  and  the  coast 
between  Capes  Clarence  and  Walker.  A  convenient 
winter  harbor  might  be  found  for  one  of  the  ships  near 
Garnier  Bay  or  Cape  Rennell.  From  this  position  the 
coast  line  could  be  explored  as  far  as  it  extended  to  the 
westward,  by  detached  parties,  early  in  the  spring,  as 
well  as  the  western  coast  of  Boothia,  a  considerable 
distance  to  the  southward ;  and  at  a  more  advanced 
period  of  the  season  the  whole  distance  to  Cape  Kicolai 
might  be  completed. 

The  other  ship  should  then  proceed  alone  to  the 
westward,  endeavoring  to  reacn  Winter  Harbor,  in 
Melville  Island,  or  some  convenient  port  in  Banks' 
Land,  in  which  to  pass  the  winter. 

From  these  points  parties  might  be  sent  out  early  in 
the  spring. 

The  first  party  should  be  directed  to  trace  the  west- 
ern coast  of  Banks'  Land,  and  proceed  direct  to  Cape 
Bathurst  or  Cape  Parry,  on  each  of  which  Sir  John 
Richardson  proposes  to  leave  depots  of  provis'ons  for 
its  use,  and  then  to  reach  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
settlement  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  on  the  Mackenzie, 
whence  they  might  travel  by  the  usual  route  of  the 
traders  to  the  principal  settlement,  and  thence  to  Eng- 
land. 

The  second  party  should  explore  the  eastern  shore  of 
Banks'  Land,  and  make  for  Cape  Krusenstern,  where, 
or  at  Cape  Hearne,  they  will  find  a  cache  of  provision 
left  by  Sir  John  Richardson,  with  whom  this  party 
may  communicate,  and  whom  it  may  assist  in  comple- 
ting the  examination  of  Wollaston  and  Victoria  Lands, 
or  return  to  England  by  the  route  he  shall  deem  most 
advisable. 

Sir  James  Ross  was  intrusted  with  the  carrying  out 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


219 


of  this  search,  in  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator,  and 
.  an  account  of  the  voyage  and  proceedings  of  these  ves- 
sels will  be  found  recorded  in  its  chronological  order. 

The  following  letter  from  Dr.  Richard  King  to  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty  contains  some  useful  sugges- 
tions, although  it  is  mixed  up  with  a  good  deal  of  ego- 
tistical remark; — 

"17,  Saville  Row^  February^  1848. 

"*The  old  route  of  Parry,  through  Lancaster  Sound 
and  Barrow's  Strait,  as  far  as  to  the  last  land  on  its 
southern  shore,  and  thence  in  a  direct  line  to  Behring's 
Straits,  is  the  route  ordered  to  be  pursued  by  Frank- 
lin.' * 

"The  gallant  oflBcer  has  thus  been  dispatched  to  push 
his  adventurous  way  between  Melville  Island  and 
Banks'  Land,  which  Sir  E.  Parry  attempted  for  two 
years  unsuccessfully.  After  much  toil  and  hardship, 
and  the  best  consideration  that  great  man  could  give 
to  the  subject,  he  recorded,  at  the  moment  of  retreat, 
in  indelible  characters,  these  impressive  thoughts : 
'We  have  been  lying  near  our  present  station,  with 
an  easterly  wind  blowing  fresh,  for  thirty-six  hours 
together,  and  although  this  was  considerably  off  the 
land,  the  ice  had  not  during  the  whole  of  that  time 
moved  a  single  yard  from  the  shore,  affording  a  proof 
that  there  was  no  space  in  which  the  ice  was  at  liberty 
to  move  to  the  westward.  The  navigation  of  this  part 
of  the  Polar  Sea  is  only  to  be  performed  by  watching 
the  occasional  opening  between  the  ice  and  the  shore, 
md  therefore,  a  continuity  of  land  is  essential  for  this 
purpose ;  such  a  continuity  of  land,  which  was  here 
about  to  fail,  as  must  necessarily  be  furnished  by  the 
northern  coast  of  America,  in  whatsoever  latitude  it 
may  be  found.'  Assuming,  therefore.  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin has  been  arrested  between  Melville  Island  and 
Banks'  Land,  where  Sir  E.  Parry  was  arrested  by  dif- 
ficulties which  he  considered  insurmountable,  and  hr 
has  followed  the  advice  of  that  gallant  officer,  and 


14 


*  Barrow's  Arctic  Voyages,  p.  11. 


iim 

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220 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


m 


III  ji'i    m 


made  for  the  continuity  of  America,  he  will  have 
turned  the  prows  of  his  vessel  south  and  west,  accord- 
ing as  BauKs'  Land  tends  for  Victoria  or  Wollaston 
Lands.  It  is  here,  therefore,  that  we  may  expect  to 
find  the  expedition  wrecked,  whence  they  will  make 
in  their  boats  for  the  western  land  of  North  Somerset, 
if  that  land  should  not  be  too  far  distant. 

"In  order  to  save  the  party  from  the  ordeal  of  a 
fourth  winter,  when  starvation  must  be  their  lot,  I 
propose  to  undertake  the  boldest  journey  that  has  ever 
been  attempted  in  the  northern  regions  of  America, 
one  which  was  justifiable  only  from  the  circumstances. 
I  propose  to  attempt  to  reach  the  western  land  of  North 
Somerset  or  the  eastern  portion  of  Victoria  Land,  as 
may  be  deemed  advisable,  by  the  close  of  the  ap- 
proaching summer ;  to  accomplish,  in  fact,  in  one  sum- 
mer that  which  has  not  been  done  under  two. 

"  I  rest  my  hope  of  success  in  the  performance  of 
this  Herculean  task  upon  the  fact,  that  I  possess  an  in- 
timate knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  people  throuih 
which  I  shall  have  to  pass,  the  health  to  stand  the 
rigor  of  the  climate,  and  the  strength  to  undergo  the 
fatigue  of  mind  and  body  to  which  1  must  be  subjected. 
A  glance  at  the  map  of  North  America,  directed  to 
Behring's  Strait  in  the  Pacific,  Barrow's  Strait  in  the 
Atlantic,  and  the  land  of  North  Somerset  between 
them,  will  make  it  apparent  that,  to  render  assistance 
to  a  party  situated  on  that  coast,  there  are  two  ways  l)y 
sea  and  one  by  land.  Of  the  two  sea-ways,  the  route 
by  the  Pacific  is  altogether  out  of  the  question  ;  it  is  an 
idea  of  by-gone  days  ;  while  that  by  the  Atlantic  is  so 
doubtful  of  success,  that  it  is  merely  necessary,  to  put 
this  assistance  aside  as  far  from  certain,  to  mention  tliat 
Sir  John  Ross  found  Barrow's  Strait  closed  in  the  suni- 
raer  of  1832.  To  a  land  journey,  then,  alone  we  can 
look  for  success  ;  for  the  failure  of  a  land  jonrncy 
would  be  the  exception  to  the  rule,  while  the  sea  expe- 
dition would  be  the  rule  itself.  To  the  western  land  of 
North  Somerset,  where  Sir  John  Franklin  is  likely  to 
be  found,  the  Great  Fish  Kiver  is  the  direct  and  only 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


221 


route ;  and  although  the  approach  to  it  is  through  a 
country  too  poor  and  too  difficult  of  access  to  admit  of 
the  transport  of  provisions,  it  may  be  made  the  medi- 
um of  communication  between  the  lost  expedition  and 
the  civilized  world,  and  guides  be  thus  placed  at  their 
disposal  to  convey  them  to  the  hunting  grounds  of  the 
Indians.    Without  such  guides  it  is  impossible  that 
they  can  reach  these  hunting  grounds.     It  was  by  the 
Great  Fish  River  that  I  reached  the  Polar  Sea  while 
acting  as  second  officer,  in  search  of  Sir  John  Ross. 
I  feel  it  my  duty,  therefore,  as  one  of  two  officers  so 
peculiarly   circumstanced,  at  the  present  moment  to 
place  my  views  on  record,  as  an  earnest  of  my  sincer- 
ity.   Even  if  it  should  be  determined  to  try  and  force 
provision  vessels  through  Barrow's  Strait,  and  scour 
the  vicinity  in  boats  for  the  lost  expedition,  and  should 
it  succeed,  it  will  be  satisfactory  to  know  that  such  a 
mission  as  I  have  proposed  should  be  adopted  ;  while, 
Jf  these  attempts  should  fail,  and  the  service  under  con 
('deration  be  put  aside,  it  will  be  a  source  of  regret 
that  not  only  the  nation  at  large  will  feel,  but  the  whole 
civilized  world.     When  this  regret  is  felt,  and  every 
soul  has  perished,  such  a  mission  as  I  have  proposed 
will  be  urged  again  and  again  for  adoption  ;  for  it  is 
impossible  that  the  country  will  rest  satisfied  until  a 
search  be  made  for  the  remains  of  the  lost  expedition. 
"  The  fact  that  all  lands  which  have  a  western  aspect 
nre  generally  ice-free,  which  I  dwelt  largely  upon  when 
Sir  John  Franklin  sailed,  must  have  had  weight  with 
the  gallant  officer  ;  he  will  therefore,  on  finding  him- 
self in  a  serious  difficulty,  while  pushing  along  the  east- 
ern side  of  Victoria  Land,  at  once  fall  upon  the  western 
land  of  !N"orth  Somerset,  as  a  refuge  ground,  if  he  have 
the  opportunity.     The  effort  by  Behring's  Strait  and 
Banks'  Land  is  praiseworthy  in  attempt,  but  forlorn  in 
hope.     In  the  former  effort,  it  is  assumed  that  Sir  John 
Franklin  has  made  the  passage,  and  that  liis  arrest  is 
between  the  Mackenzie  River  and  Icy  Cape  ;  in  the 
latter,  that  Sir  James  Ross  will  reach  Banks'  Land,  and 
trace  its  continuity  to  Victoria  and  Wollaston  Land, 


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222 


PROGRESS    OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


and  thus  make  the  '  passage.'  First,  "We  have  no  rea- 
son to  believe  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  Sir  James 
Koss  will  be  more  fortunate  than  their  predecessors, 
and  we  cannot  trust  to  their  success.  Secondly,  We 
are  unable  to  assume  that  Sir  James  lioss  will  reach 
Bank's  Land  ;  Sir  E.  Parry  was  unable  to  reach  it,  and 
only  viewed  it  from  a  distance  ;  much  less  are  we  able 
to  assume  that  the  gallant  officer  will  find  a  high  road 
to  Victoria  Land,  wnich  is  altogether  u  terra  incognita. 

"  Mr.  T.  Simpson,  who  surveyed  the  arctic  coast 
comprised  between  the  Coppermine  and  Castor  and 
Pollux  Rivers,  has  set  that  question  at  rest,  and  is  the 
only  authority  upon  the  subject.  '  A  further  explora- 
tion,' remarks  Mr.  Simpson,  from  the  most  eastern  limit 
of  his  journey,  '  would  necessarily  demand  the  whole 
time  and  energies  of  another  expedition,  having  some 
point  of  retreat  much  nearer  to  tlie  scene  of  operations 
than  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  Great  Bear  Lake  is  to  be 
the  retreat  of  Sir  John  Richardson.' 

"  What  retreat  could  Mr.  Simpson  have  meant  but 
Great  Slave  Lake,  the  retreat  of  the  land  party  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Ross  ?  and  what  other  road  to  the  unex- 
plored ground,  the  western  land  of  North  Somerset, 
could  that  traveler  have  meant  than  Great  Fish  River, 
that  stream  which  I  have  pointed  out  as  the  ice  free 
and  high  road  to  the  land  where  the  lost  expedition  is 
likely  to  be  found, —  to  be  the  boundary  of  that  pass- 
age which  for  three  and  a  half  centuries  we  have  been 
in  vain  endeavoring  to  reach  in  ships  ? " 

Captain  Sir  W.  E.  Parry,  to  whom  Dr.  King's  pro- 
posal was  submitted  by  the  Admiralty,  thus  comments 
on  it  : — 

"  My  former  opinion,  quoted  by  Dr.  King,  as  to  the 
difficulty  of  ships  penetrating  to  the  westward  beyond 
Cape  Dundas,  (the  southwestern  extremity  of  Melville 
Island,)  remains  unaltered  ;  and  I  should  expect  that 
Sir  John  Franklin,  being  aware  of  this  difficulty,  would 
use  his  utmost  efforts  to  get  to  the  southward  and  west- 
ward before  he  approached  that  point,  that  is,  between 
the  100th  and  110th  degree  of  longitude.     The  more  I 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS 


223 


have  considered  this  subject,  (which  has  naturally  occu- 
pied much  of  my  attention  lately,)  the  more  difficult  I 
find  it  to  conjecture  where  the  expedition  may  have 
stopped,  either  with  or  without  any  serious  accident  to 
the  ships  ;  but  as  no  information  has  reached  us  up  to 
this  time,  I  conceive  that  there  is  some  considerable 
probability  of  their  being  situated  somewhere  between 
the  longitude  I  have  just  named  ;  how  far  they  may 
have  penetrated  to  the  southward,  between  those  meri- 
dians, must  be  a  matter  of  speculation,  depending  on 
the  state  of  the  ice,  and  the  existence  of  land  in  a  space 
hitherto  blank  on  our  maps. 

"  Be  this  as  it  may,  I  consider  it  not  improbable,  as 
suggested  by  Dr.  King,  that  an  attempt  will  be  made 
by  them  to  fall  back  on  the  western  coast  of  North 
Somerset,  wherever  that  may  be  found,  as  being  the 
nearest  ]ioint  affording  a  hope  of  communication,  either 
with  ^\  iiulers  or  with  ships  sent  expressly  in  search  of 
the  expedition. 

"Agreeing  thus  far  with  Dr.  King,  I  am  compelled 
to  difer  with  him  entirely  as  to  the  readiest  mode  of 
reaching  that  coast,  because  I  feel  satisfied  that,  with 
the  resources  of  the  expedition  now  equipping  under 
Sir  James  Ross,  the  energy,  skill,  and  intelligence  of 
that  officer  will  render  it  li  matter  of  no  very  difficult 
enterprise  to  examine  the  coast  in  question,  either  with 
his  shipo,  boats,  or  traveling  parties  ;  whereas  an  at- 
tempt to  reach  that  coast  by  an  expedition  from  the 
continent  of  America  must,  as  it  appears  to  me,  be  ex- 
tremely hazardous  and  uncertain.  And  as  I  under- 
stand it  to  be  their  lordships'  intention  to  direct  Sir 
James  Ross  to  station  one  of  his  ships  somewhere  about 
Cape  Walker,  while  the  other  proceeds  on  the  search, 
and  likewise  to  equip  his  boats  specially  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  the  various  coasts  and  inlets,  I  am 
decidedly  of  opinion,  that,  as  regards  the  western  coast 
of  North  Somerset,  this  plan  will  be  much  more  likely 
to  answer  the  proposed  object,  than  any  overland 
expedition.  This  object  will,  of  course,  be  the  more 
easily  accomplished  in  case  of  Sir  James  Ross  finding 


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224: 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


m- 


the  western  coast  of  North  Somerset  navigable  for  hia 
ships. 

*'  In  regard  to  Dr.  King's  suggestion  respecting  Y[q 
toria  Land  and  Wolhiston  Land,  8iii)posing  Sir  John 
Franklin's  ships  to  have  been  arrested  between  tlie 
meridians  to  which  I  have  already  alluded,  it  does 
seem,  by  an  inspection  of  the  map,  not  improbable  that 
parties  may  attempt  to  penetrate  to  the  continent  in 
that  direction  ;  but  not  being  well  acquainted  with  the 
facilities  for  reaching  the  coast  of  America  opposite 
those  lands  in  the  manner  proposed  by  Dr.  King,  I  am 
not  competent  to  judge  of  its  practicability." 

Nearly  the  whole  of  the  west  coast  of  North  Somer- 
set and  Boothia  was,  (it  will  be  found  hereafter,)  ex- 
plored by  parties  in  boats  detached  from  Sir  James 
feoss's  ships  in  1849. 

I  append,  also,  the  most  important  portions  of  Sir 
James  Koss's  remarks  on  Dr.  King's  plan. 

"  Dr.  King  begins  by  assuming  that  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin has  attempted  to  push  the  shij)S  through  to  the  west- 
ward, between  Melville  Island  and  Banks'  Land,  (al- 
though directly  contrary  to  his  instructions;)  that  hav- 
ing been  arrested  by  insurmountable  difficulties,  he 
would  liave  '  turned  the  prows  of  his  vessels  to  the 
south  and  west,  according  as  Banks'  Land  tends  for 
Victoria  or  Wollaston  Land  ;'  and  having  been  wrecked, 
or  from  any  other  cause  obliged  to  abandon  their  ships, 
their  crews  would  take  to  the  boats,  and  make  for  the 
west  coast  of  North  Somerset. 

"  If  the  expedition  had  failed  to  penetrate  to  the 
westward  between  Banks'  Land  and  Melville  Island,  it 
is  very  probable  it  would  have  next  attempted  to  gain 
the  continent  by  a  more  southerly  course  ;  and  suppos- 
ing that,  after  making  only  small  progress,  (say  100 
miles,)  to  the  southwest,  it  should  have  been  then  finally 
stopped  or  wrecked,  the  calamity  will  have  occurred 
in  about  latitude  72  i°  N.,  and  longitude  115°  W.  This 
point  is  only  280  miles  from  the  Coppermine  River 
and  420  miles  from  the  Mackenzie,  either  of  wliicl 
would,  therefore,  be  easily  attainable,  and  at  each  of 


OPINIONS    AND   SL'GOKSTIONS. 


225 


Avliicli,  abundance  of  provision  might  be  procured  by 
tlieni,  and  tlicir  return  to  England  a  measure  of  no 
great  difficulty. 

"  At  the  point  above  mentioned,  the  distance  from 
the  west  coast  of  North  Somerset  is  probably  about  360 
miles,  and  the  moutli  of  the  Great  1  ish  River  full  500 ; 
at  neither  of  these  places  could  they  hope  to  obtain  a 
single  day's  provisions  for  so  large  a  party ;  and  Sir 
John  Franklin's  intimate  knowledge  of  the  imj^ossibil- 
ity  of  ascending  that  river,  or  obtaining  any  food  for 
liis  party  in  passing  through  the  Barren  grounds,  would 
concur  in  deterring  him  from  attempting  to  gain  either 
of  these  points. 

"  I  think  it  most  probable  that,  from  the  situation 
pointed  out,  he  would,  when  compelled  to  abandon  his 
ships,  endeavor  in  the  boats  to  retrace  his  steps,  and 
passing  through  the  channel  by  which  he  had  advanced, 
luid  which  we  have  always  found  of  easy  navigation, 
seek  the  whale  ships  which  annually  visit  the  west  coast 
of  Baffin's  Bay. 

"  It  is  far  more  probable,  however,  that  Sir  John 
Franklin,  in  obedience  to  his  instructions,  would  en 
deavor  to  push  the  ships  to  the  south  and  west  as  soon 
as  they  passed  Cape  Walker,  and  the  consequence  of 
such  a  measure,  owing  to  the  known  prevalence  of 
westerly  wind,  and  the  drift  of  the  main  body  of  the 
ice,  would  be  (in  my  opinion)  their  inevitable  embarrass- 
ment, and  if  he  persevered  in  that  direction  which  he 
probably  would  do,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  stating  my 
conviction  ho  would  never  be  able  to  extricate  his 
ships,  and  would  ultimately  be  obliged  to  abandon  them. 
It  is  therefore  in  latitude  73°  N.  and  longitude  105°  W. 
that  we  may  expect  to  find  them  involved  in  the  ice, 
or  shut  up  in  some  harbor.  This  is  almost  the  only 
point  in  which  it  is  likely  they  would  be  detained,  or 
from  which  it  would  not  he  possible  to  convey  informa- 
tion of  their  situation  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Settlements. 

"  If,  then,  we  suppose  the  crews  of  the  ships  should 
be  compelled,  either  this  autumn  or  next  spring,  to 
abandon  their  vessels  at  or  near  this  point,  they  woul«J 


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226 


niOGltlSttd   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


most  assuredly  endeavor,  in  their  boats,  to  reach  Lan- 
caster Sound ;  but  I  cannot  conceive  any  position  iu 
which  they  could  be  placed  from  which  they  would 
make  for  the  Great  Fish  River,  or  at  which  any  party 
descending  that  river  would  be  likely  to  overtake  tneni ; 
and  even  if  it  did,  of  what  advantage  could  it  be  to 
them  ? 

"  If  Dr.  King  and  his  party,  in  their  single  canoe, 
did  fall  in  with  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party  on  the 
west  coast  of  I^orth  Somerset,  how  does  he  propose  tA 
assist  them  ?  he  would  barely  have  sufficient  provision 
for  his  own  party,  and  would  more  probably  be  in  a 
condition  to  require  rather  than  aiford  relief.  He  could 
only  tell  them  what  Sir  John  Franklin  already  knows, 
from  former  experience,  far  better  than  Dr.  King,  that  it 
would  be  impossible  for  so  large  a  party,  or  indeed  any 
party  not  previously  provided,  to  travel  across  the  bar- 
ren grounds  to  any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Settlements." 

"  All  that  has  been  done  by  the  way  of  search  since 
February,  1848,  tends,"  persists  Dr.  King,  "  to  draw 
attention  closer  and  closer  to  the  western  land  of  North 
Somerset,  as  the  position  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  to 
the  Great  Fish  (or  Back)  River,  as  the  high  road  to 
reach  it." 

Dr.  King  has  twice  proposed  to  the  Admiralty  to 
proceed  on  the  search  by  this  route.  "  It  would,"  he 
states,  "  be  the  happiest  moment  of  my  life  (and  my 
delight  at  being  selected  from  a  long  list  of  volunteers, 
tor  the  relief  of  Sir  John  Ross,  was  very  great)  if  their 
lordships  would  allow  me  to  go  by  my  old  route,  the 
Great  Fish  River,  to  attempt  to  save  human  life  a  sec- 
ond time  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea.  What  I  did 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Ross  is  the  best  earnest  of  what 
I  could  do  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin." 

A  meeting  of  those  officers  and  gentlemen  most  con- 
versant with  arctic  voyages  was  conv^med  by  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  cn  the  17th  of 
January,  1849,  at  which  the  following  were  present :  — 
Rear- Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  K.  C.  B.,  Captain 
Sir  W.  E.  Parry,  R.  N.,  Captain  Sir  George  Back,  R. 


OPINIONS    AND   8L00EBTI0NS, 


227 


N".,  Captain  Sir  E.  Belcher,  H.  N.,  Colonel  Sabine,  R. 
A.,  and  the  Rev.  Dr.  Scoresby. 

A  very  pretty  painting,  containing  portraits  of  all  the 
principal  arctic  voyagers  in  consultation  on  these  mo- 
mentous matters,  has  been  made  by  Mr.  Pearse,  artist, 
of  53,  Berners  Street,  Oxford  Street,  which  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  beautiful  Arctic  Panorama  of 
Mr.  Burford,  in  Leicester  Square,  will  also  give  a 
graphic  idea  of  the  scenery  and  appearance  of  the  icy 
regions ;  the  whole  being  designed  from  authentic 
sketches  by  Lieut.  Browne,  now  of  the  Resolute,  and 
who  was  out  in  the  Enterprise  in  her  trip  in  1848,  and 
also  with  Sir  James  Ross  in  his  antarctic  voyage. 

The  expedition  under  Sir  James  Ross  having  re- 
turned unsuccessful,  other  measures  of  relief  were  now 
determined  on,  and  the  opinions  of  the  leading  officers 
again  taken. 

Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  in  his  report  to  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  on  November 
24th,  1849,  observes :  — 

"  There  are  four  ways  only  in  which  it  is  likely  that 
the  Erebus  and  Terror  would  have  been  lost  —  by  fire, 
by  sunken  rocks,  by  storm,  or  by  being  cnished  be- 
tween two  fields  of  ice.  Both  vessels  would  scarcely 
have  taken  fire  together ;  if  one  of  them  had  struck  on  a 
rock  the  other  would  have  avoided  the  danger.  Storms 
in  those  narrow  seas,  encumbered  with  ice,  raise  no 
swell,  and  could  produce  no  such  disaster ;  and  there- 
fore, by  the  fourth  cause  alone  could  the  two  vessels 
have  been  at  once  destroyed ;  and  even  in  that  case 
the  crews  would  have  escaped  upon  the  ice  (as  happens 
every  year  to  the  whalers ;)  they  would  have  saved 
their  loose  boats,  and  reached  some  part  of  the  American 
shores.  As  no  traces  of  any  such  event  have  been  found 
on  any  part  of  those  shores,  it  may  therefore  be  safely 
afiirmed  that  one  ship  at  least,  and  both  the  crews, 
are  still  in  existence ;  and  therefore  the  point  where 
they  now  are  is  the  great  matter  for  consideration. 

"Their  orders  would  have  carried  them  toward  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  then  out  to  the  westward,  where  it  is 
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228 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT 


therefore  probable  that  they  are  entangled  among 
islands  and  ice.  For  should  they  have  been  arrested 
at  some  intermediate  place,  for  instance,  Cape  Walker, 
or  at  one  of  the  northern  chain  of  islands,  tliey  would, 
undoubtedly,  in  the  course  of  the  three  following  years, 
have  contrived  some  method  of  sending  notices  of  tlicii 
position  to  the  shores  of  North  Somerset  or  to  Barrow's 
Strait. 

"If  they  had  reached  much  to  the  southward  of 
Bank's  Land,  they  would  surely  have  communicated 
with  the  tribes  on  Mackenzie  River ;  and  if,  failing  to 
get  to  the  westward  or  southward,  they  had  returned 
with  tlie  intention  of  penetrating  through  Wellington 
Channel,  they  would  have  detached  parties  on  the  ico 
toward  Barrow's  Strait,  in  order  to  have  deposited 
statements  of  their  intentions. 

"  The  general  conclusion,  therefore,  remains,  that  they 
are  still  locked  up  in  the  Archipelago  to  the  westward 
of  Melville  Island.  Now,  it  is  well  known  that  tlie 
state  of  the  weather  alternates  between  the  opposite 
sides  of  Northern  America,  being  mild  on  the  one  when 
rigorous  on  the  other ;  and  accordingly,  during  the  two 
last  years,  which  have  been  unusually  severe  in  Baffin's 
Bay,  the  United  States  whalers  were  successfullv  trav- 
ersing the  Polar  Sea  to  the  northward  of  Bohring's 
Straits.  The  same  severe  weather  may  possibly  prevail 
on  the  eastern  side  during  the  summer  of  1850,  and  if 
so,  it  is  obvious  that  an  attempt  should  be  now  made 
by  the  western  opening,  and  not  merely  to  receive  the 
two  ships,  if  they  should  be  met  coming  out  (as  for- 
merly,) but  to  advance  in  the  direction  of  Melville 
Island,  resolutely  entering  the  ice,  and  employing  every 
possible  expedient  by  sledging  parties,  by  reconnoitering 
balloons,  and  by  blasting  the  ice,  to  communicate  wutE 
them. 

"These  vessels  should  be  intrepidly  commanded, 
effectively  manned,  and  supplied  with  the  best  means 
for  traveling  across  the  ice  to  the  English  or  to  the 
Russian  settlements,  as  it  will  be  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance to  be  informed  of  what  progr-^ss  the  expedition 


OPINIONS    AND  8UOOESTION8. 


229 


liiis  made ;  and  for  tliis  purpose  likewise  the  Plover 
will  be  of  material  service,  lying  at  some  advanced 
point  near  Icy  Cape,  and  ready  to  receive  intelligence, 
and  to  convey  it  to  Petropaulski  or  to  Panama. 

"These  vessels  should  enter  Behring's  Straits  before 
the  first  of  August,  and  therefore  every  eftbrt  should 
be  now  made  to  dispatch  them  from  Lndand  before 
Cliristmas.  They  might  water  at  the  Falkland  Islands, 
and  again  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  they  would 
be  ready  to  receive  additional  instructions  via  Panama, 
by  one  of  the  Pacific  steamers,  and  by  which  vessel 
they  might  be  pushed  on  some  little  distance  to  the 
northward. 

"  It  seems  to  me  likely  that  the  ships  have  been  push- 
ing on,  summer  after  summer,  in  the  direction  of  Behr- 
ing's  Straits,  and  are  detained  somewliere  in  the  space 
southwestward  of  Banks'  Land.  On  the  other  hand, 
sliould  they,  after  the  first  or  second  summer,  have  been 
unsuccessful  in  that  direction,  they  may  have  attempted 
to  proceed  to  the  northward,  either  through  Wellington 
Channel,  or  through  some  other  of  the  openings  among 
the  same  group  ol  islands.  I  do  not  myself  attach  any 
superior  importance  to  Wellington  Channel  as  regards 
the  northwest  passage,  but  I  understand  that  Sir  John 
Franklin  did,  and  tnat  he  strongly  expressed  to  Lord 
Haddington  his  intention  of  attempting  that  route,  if 
he  should  fail  in  effecting  the  more  direct  passage  to 
the  westward. 

"The  ships  having  been  fully  victualed  for  three 
years,  the  resources  may,  by  due  precautions,  have 
been  extended  to  four  years  for  the  whole  crews ;  but 
it  has  occurred  to  me,  since  I  had  the  honor  of  confer- 
ring with  their  lordships,  that,  if  their  numbers  have 
been  gradually  diminished  to  any  considerable  extent 
by  death,  (a  coi.'tingency  which  is  but  too  probable,  con- 
sidering their  unparalleled  detention  in  the  ice,)  the 
resources  would  be  proportionably  extended  for  the 
survivors,  whom  it  might,  therefore,  be  found  expedient 
to  transfer  to  one  pf  the  ships,  with  all  the  remaining 
stores,  and  with  that  one  ship  to  continue  the  endeavor 


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230 


PROGRESS   OP   ABCTIO    DISCO VKKY. 


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to  pufili  westwarfl,  or  to  return  to  the  eastward,  as  cir- 
cuniHtanceH  might  render  expedient ;  in  tliat  cane,  the 
neceHsity  for  quitting  hotli  tlie  slilps  in  the  past  Hiim. 
mer  mi«'ht  not  iniprol)ably  have  been  obviated. 

"  Under  these  circumstances,  whicli,  it  must  be  admit 
ted,  amount  to  no  more  than  mere  conjecture,  it  set'niH 
to  me  expedient  still  to  prosecute  the  search  in  botli 
directions,  namely,  by  way  of  Behring's  Strait  (to  whicJi 
I  look  with  the  strongest  hope,)  and  also  by  that  of 
Barrow's  Strait.  In  the  latter  direction,  it  ouglit,  I 
til  ink,  to  be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  more  than  usual 
difficulties  with  which  Sir  James  Ross  had  to  contend, 
have,  in  reality,  letl  us  with  very  little  more  infunim- 
tion  than  before  he  left  England,  and  I  cannot  contoin- 
plate  without  serious  apprehension,  leaving  that  opLMiiiiir 
without  still  further  search  in  the  ensuing  spring,  in 
case  the  missing  crews  have  fallen  back  to  the  eastiiii 
coast  of  North  Somerset,  where  they  would  natunilly 
look  for  supplies  to  be  deposited  for  them,  in  addition 
to  the  chance  of  finding  some  of  those  left  by  the  Fury. 
For  the  purpose  of  further  pursuing  the  search  by  way 
of  Barrow's  Strait,  perhaps  two  small  vessels  of  150  or 
200  tons  might  suffice,  but  they  must  be  square  rigo;ed 
for  the  navigation  among  the  ice.  Of  course  the  object 
of  such  vessels  would  be  nearly  that  which  Sir  James 
Ross's  endeavors  have  failed  to  accomplish ;  and  the 
provisions,  &c.,  left  by  that  officer  at  Whaler  Point, 
as  well  as  any  which  may  be  deposited  in  that  neigh- 
borhood by  the  North  Star,  would  greatly  add  to  the  re- 
sources, facilitate  the  operations,  and  lessen  the  risk  of 
any  attempt  made  in  tnat  direction. 

"  If,  however,  there  be  time  to  get  ships  to  Behring's 
Straits  by  the  first  week  in  August,  1850,  which  would 
perhaps  require  the  aid  of  steam  vessels  to  accomplish 
with  any  degree  of  certainty,  I  recommend  that  the 
Enterprise  and  Investigator  be  forthwith  equipped  and 
dispatched  there,  with  instructions  to  push  through  the 
ice  to  the  E.  N.  E.  as  far  as  possible  in  the  ensuing  sea- 
son, with  the  hope  of  meeting  with  at  least  one  of  tlie 
ships,  or  any  of  the  parties  which  may  have  been 


igh- 

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OPINIONS  AND   BUOOE8TION8. 


231 


detached  from  them.  ThiB  attempt  has  never  yet  been 
miulo  by  any  ships,  and  I  cling  very  fitrongly  to  the 
belief  tluit  such  an  effort  might  bo  attended  with  suc- 
cess in  rescuing  at  least  a  portion  of  our  people. 

"My  reaHon  for  urging  tnia  upon  their  Lordships  is, 
that  the  admirable  instructions  under  which  the  Plover, 
assisted  by  the  Uerald,  is  acting,  embraces  only  the 
search  of  the  coast  line  eastward  from  Icy  Cape ;  since 
the  boats  and  baidars  cannot  effect  any  thing  except  by 
creeping  along  as  o])portunities  offer,  between  the  ice 
and  the  land,  so  tlfat  this  plan  of  operations  meets  only 
the  contingency  of  parties  reaching,  or  nearly  reaching, 
the  land  ;  whereas  the  chance  ol  rescue  would,  as  it 
appears  to  me,  be  immensely  increased  by  ships  push- 
ing on,  clear  of  the  coast,  toward  Banks'  Land  and 
Melville  Island,  as  far  at  least  as  might  bo  practicable 
in  the  best  five  or  six  weeks  of  the  season  ot  1850." 

Captain  Parry  says  — "Although  this  is  the  first  at- 
tempt ever  made  to  enter  the  ice  in  this  direction,  with 
ships  properly  equipped  for  the  purpose,  there  is  no 
reason  to  anticipate  any  greater  difficulties  in  this  navi- 
gation than  those  encountered  in  other  parts  of  the 
Sorth  Polar  Sea ;  and,  even  in  the  event  of  not  suc- 
ceeding in  reaching  Banks'  Land  in  the  summer  of  the 
present  year,  it  may  be  possible  to  make  such  progress 
as  to  afford  a  reasonable  hope  of  effecting  that  object 
in  the  following  season  (1851.)  Indeed  it  is  possible 
that,  from  the  well  known  fact  of  the  climate  being 
more  temperate  in  a  given  parallel  of  latitude,  in  going 
westward  from  the  Mackenzie  River,  some  comparative 
advantage  may  be  derived  in  the  navigation  of  this 
part  of  the  Polar  Sea. 

"It  is  of  importance  to  the  security  of  the  B}ii|)s  and 
of  their  crews  that  they  should  winter  in  some  harlior 
or  bay  not  at  a  distance  fi'om  land,  where  the  ice  might 
be  in  motion  during  the  winter  ;  and  it  will  be  desira- 
ble, should  no  land  be  discovered  fit  for  this  purpopc, 
in  the  space  at  present  unexplored  between  Point  Bar- 
row and  Banks'  Land,  that  endeavors  should  be  made  to 
reach  the  continent  about  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie 


;«' 


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232 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


River,  or  further  eastward,  toward  Liverpool  Bay, 
where  there  is  reason  to  suppose  that  sufficient  slielter 
may  be  found,  and  in  which  neighborhood,  it  appears, 
there  is  generally  no  ice  to  be  seen  from  the  shore  for 
about  six  weeks  in  tlie  months  of  August  and  Septem- 
ber. Sir  John  Franklin's  narrative  of  his  second  jour 
ney,  that  of  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson,  and  the 
Admiralty  Charts,  will  furnish  the  requisite  hydro 
graphical  information  relative  to  this  line  of  coast,  sp 
tar  as  it  has  been  attained. 

"  The  utmost  economy  should  be  exercised  in  the  use 
of  provisions  and  fuel  during  the  time  the  ships  are  in 
winter  quarters  ;  and  if  they  should  winter  on  or  near 
the  continent,  there  would  probably  be  an  opportunity 
of  increasing  their  stock  of  provisions  by  means  of 
game  or  fish,  and  likewise  of  fuel,  by  drift  or  other 
wood,  to  some  considerable  amount. 

''  If  the  progress  of  the  ships  in  1850  has  been  con- 
siderable— for  instance,  as  far  as  the  meridian  of  120° 
W. —  the  probability  is,  that  the  most  practicable  way 
of  returning  to  England  will  be,  still  to  push  on  in  the 
same  direction  during  the  whole  season  of  1851,  with 
a  view  to  reach  Barrow's  Strait,  and  take  advantage, 
if  necessary,  of  the  resources  left  by  Captain  Sir  James 
Ross  at  Whaler  Point,  near  Leopold  Harbor ;  if  not  the 
same  season,  at  least  after  a  second  winter.  If,  on  the 
other  hand,  small  progress  should  have  been  made  to 
the  eastward  at  the  close  of  the  present  summer,  it 
might  be  prudent  that  when  half  tlie  navigable  season 
of  1851  shall  have  expired,  no  further  attem])ts  should 
be  made  in  proceeding  to  the  eastward,  and  that  tlie 
remaining  half  of  that  season  should  be  occupied  in 
returning  to  the  westward,  with  a  view  to  escape  fiom 
the  ice  by  way  of  Behring's  Straits  after  the  winter  of 
1851-52,  so  as  not  to  incur  the  risk  of  passing  a  third 
wintei'  in  the  ice. 

"  ruring  the  summer  season,  the  most  vigilant  look- 
out ijhould  be  kept  from  the  mast-heads  of  both  ships 
night  and  day,  not  only  for  the  missing  ships,  but  for 
iny  detached  parties  belonging  to  them  ;  and  during 


n  If! 


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J 

OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


233 


the  few  hours  of  darkness  which  prevail  toward  the  close 
of  each  season^s  navigation,  and  also  when  in  winter 
quarters,  signals,  by  fires,  blue  lights,  rockets  or  guns, 
siiould  be  nuide  as  the  means  of  pointing  out  the  posi- 
tion of  the  ships  to  any  detached  parties  belonging  to 
the  missini>'  expedition.  And  in  the  spring  before  tlie 
ships  can  oe  released  from  the  ice,  searching  parties 
might  be  sent  out  in  various  directions,  either  in  boats 
or  by  land,  to  examine  the  neighboring  coasts  and  inlets 
for  any  trace  of  the  missing  crews." 

Captain  Sir  George  Back  also  comments  (1st  of  De- 
cember, 1849,)  on  these  intentions,  in  a  letter  to  the  Sec- 
retary of  the  Admiralty  : — 

"  You  will  be  pleased.  Sir,  to  impress  upon  my  Lords 
Commissioners,  that  I  wholly  reject  all  and  every  idea 
of  any  attempts  on  the  part  of  Sir  John  Franklin  to 
send  boats  or  detachments  over  the  ice  to  any  part  of 
the  main-land  eastward  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  because 
I  can  say  from  experience,  that  no  toil-worn  and  ex- 
hausted party  could  have  the  least  chance  of  existence 
by  going  there. 

"  On  the  other  hand,  from  my  knowledge  of  Sir  Jolm 
Franklin,  (having  been  three  times  on  discovery  to- 
gether,) I  much  doubt  if  he  would  quit  his  ship  at  all, 
except  in  a  boat ;  for  any  attempt  to  cross  the  ice  a  long 
distance  on  foot  would  be  tempting  death ;  and  it  is  too 
laborious  a  task  to  sledge  far  over  such  an  uneven  sur- 
face as  those  regions  generally  present.  Tliat  great 
mortality  must  have  occurred,  and  that  one  ship,  as  Sir 
E.  Beaufort  hints  at,  may  be  lost,  are  greatly  to  be  feared  ; 
and,  as  on  all  former  expeditions,  if  the  survivors  are 
paralyzed  by  the  depressing  attacks  of  scurvy,  it  would 
tlien  be  impossible  for  them,  however  desirous  they 
niiglit  be,  to  leave  the  ship,  which  must  thus  become 
their  last  most  anxious  abode. 

"If,  however,  open  w^ater  should  have  allowed  Sir 
John  Franklin  to  have  resorted  to  his  boats,  then  I  am 
persuaded  he  would  make  for  eitlier  tlie  Mackenzie 
Kiver,  or,  which  is  far  more  likely,  from  tlie  almost 
certaint}^  he  must  have  felt  of  finding  provision,  Capo 
Clarence  and  Fury  Point. 


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234 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


"I  am  aware  tliat  the  wliole  cnanccs  of  lite  in  tliis 
])aiiitul  case  depend  on  food ;  but  when  1  reflect  on 
Sir  John  Franklin's  former  extraordinary  preservation 
nnder  miseries  and  trials  of  the  most  severe  description, 
living  often  on  scraps  of  old  leather  and  other  refnse,  1 
cannot  despair  of  his  finding  the  mear.s  to  prolong  exist- 
ence till  aid  he  happily  sent  liim." 

Dr.  Sir  John  Richardson  on  the  same  day  also  sends 
in  his  opinion,  as  requested,  on  the  proposed  dispatcii 
of  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator  to  Benring's  Strait : 

"  It  seems  to  mo  to  be  very  desirable  that  the  western 
shores  of  the  Archipelago  of  Parry's  Islands  should  bo 
searched  in  a  high  latitude  in  the  manner  proposed  by 
the  hydrographer. 

"  If  the  proposed  expedition  succeeds  in  establishing 
its  winter  quarters  among  thcRj  islands,  parties  de- 
tached over  the  ice  may  tra\'el  to  the  eastward  and 
southeastward,  so  as  to  cross  the  lino  of  search  which  it 
is  hoped  Mr.  Rae  has  been  able  to  pursue  in  the  prcsent 
summer,  and  thus  to  determine  whether  any  traces  of 
the  missing  ships  exist  in  localities  the  most  remote 
from  Behring's  Strait  and  Lancaster  Sound,  and  from 
whence  shipwrecked  crews  would  find  the  greatest  ditH- 
culty  in  traveling  to  any  place  wliere  they  could  hope 
to  find  relief. 

"  The  climate  of  Arctic  America  improves  in  a  sensi- 
ble manner  with  an  increase  of  western  longitude.  On 
the  Mackenzie,  on  the  135tli  meridian,  t)ie  summer  is 
warmer  tlian  in  any  district  of  the  continent  in  the  same 

f)arallel,  and  it  is  still  finer,  and  the  vegetation  more 
uxuriant  on  the  banks  of  the  Yucon,  on  the  150th  me- 
ridian. This  superiority  of  climate  leads  me  to  infer, 
tliat  ships  well  fortified  asjainst  drift-ice,  will  find  the 
navigation  of  the  Arctic  Seas  more  practicable  in  its 
western  portion  than  it  has  been  found  to  the  eastward. 
This  inference  is  supported  by  my  own  personal  expe- 
rience, as  far  as  it  goes.  I  met  with  no  ice  in  the  month 
of  August,  on  my  late  voyage,  till  I  attained  the  123d 
meridian,  and  which  I  was  led,  from  that  circumstance, 
to  sn])])ose  coincided  with  the  western  limits  of  Parry's 
Ai'chi])('la.t>'o. 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


235 


'The  grcfiter  facility  of  navigating  from  tliowost  lias 
Itjon  i)owerfully  advocated  by  others  on  former  occa- 
sions ;  and  the  chief,  perhaps  the  only  reason  why  the 
attempt  to  penetrate  the  Polar  Sea  from  that  quarter 
has  not  been  resumed  since  the  time  of  Cook  is,  that 
the  length  of  the  previous  voyage  to  Behring's  Strait 
would  considerably  diminish  the  store  of  provisions ; 
but  t!ie  facilities  of  obtaining  supplies  in  the  Pacific  are 
now  so  augmonted,  that  this  objection  has  no  longer  tho 
same  force." 

Captain  F.  W.  Becchey,  writing  fi'om  Cheltenham, 
on  the  1st  of  December,  1849,  says  : — 

"  I  quite  agree  w^ith  Sir  Francis  Beaufort  in  what  he 
has  stated  with  regard  to  any  casualties  which  Sir  J. 
Franklin's  ships  may  have  sustained,  and  entirely  agree 
with  him  and  Sir  Edward  Parry,  that  the  expedition  is 
probably  hampered  among  the  ice  somewhere  to  the 
southwestward  of  Melville  Island  ;  but  there  is  yet  a 
possibility  which  does  not  ai)pear  to  have  been  contem- 
])lated,  which  is,  that  of  the  scurvy  having  spread  among 
the  crew,  and  incapacitated  a  large  proportion  of  them 
from  making  any  exertion  toward  their  release,  or  that 
the  whole,  in  a  debilitated  state,  may  yet  be  clinging 
by  their  vessels,  existing  s]3aringly  upon  the  provision 
which  a  large  mortality  may  have  spun  out,  in  the  hope 
of  relief. 

"  In  the  first  case,  that  of  the  ships  being  hampered 
and  the  crews  in  good  health,  I  think  it  certain  that,  a? 
the  resources  of  the  ships  would  be  exi^ended  in  May 
last.  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crew  have  abandoned 
the  ships,  and  pushed  forward  for  the  nearest  point 
where  they  might  reasonably  expect  assistance,  and 
which  they  could  reasonably  reach. 

"There  are  consequently  three  points  to  which  it 
would  be  proper  to  direct  attention,  and  as  the  case  is 
urgent,  every  possible  method  of  relief  should  be  ener- 
getically pushed  forward  at  as  early  a  period  as  possi- 
l)le,  and  directed  to  those  points,  v/hich,  I  need  scarcely 
say,  are  Barrow's  Strait,  Behring's  Strait,  and  the 
northern  coast  of  America. 

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236 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


"  Of  the  measures  which  can  be  resorted  to  on  thi 
northern  coast  of  America,  the  officers  who  have  had 
experience. there,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  will 
be  able  to  judge ;  but  I  am  of  opinion  that  nothing 
should  be  neglected  in  that  quarter  ;  for  it  seems  to 
me  almost  certain  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crew, 
if  able  to  travel,  have  abandoned  their  ships  and  made 
for  the  continent ;  and  if  they  have  not  succeeded  in 
gaining  the  Hudson's  Bay  outposts,  they  have  been 
overtaken  by  winter  before  they  could  accomplish  their 
purpose. 

"Lastly  as  to  the  opinion  which  naturally  forces  itself 
upon  us,  as  to  the  utility  of  the  sending  relief  to  per- 
sons whose  means  of  subsistence  will  have  failed  them 
more  than  a  year  by  the  time  the  relief  could  reach 
them,  I  would  observe,  that  a  prudent  reduction  of  the 
allowance  may  have  been  timely  made  to  meet  an 
emergency,  or  great  mortality  may  have  enabled  the 
survivors  to  subsist  up  to  the  time  required,  or  it  may 
be  that  the  crews  have  just  missed  reaching  the  points 
visited  by  our  parties  last  year  before  they  quitted  them, 
and  in  the  one  case  may  now  be  subsisting  on  the  sup- 
plies at  Leopold  Island,  or  be  housed  in  eastward  of  Point 
Barrow,  sustained  by  depots  which  have  been  fallen  in 
with,  or  by  the  native  supplies  ;  so  that  under  all  the 
circumstances,  I  do  not  consider  their  condition  so 
utterly  hopeless  that  we  should  give  up  the  expectation 
of  yet  being  able  to  render  them  a  timely  assistance. 

"  The  endeavors  to  push  forward  might  be  continued 
until  tlie  30th  of  August,  at  latest,  at  which  time,  if  tht 
ships  be  not  near  some  land  where  they  can  conven 
iently  pass  a  winter,  they  must  direct  their  course  for 
the  main-land,  and  seek  a  secure  harbor  in  which  they 
could  remain.  And  on  no  account  should  they  risk  a 
winter  in  the  pack,  in  consequence  of  the  tides  and 
shallow  water  lying  off  the  coast. 

"  Should  the  expedition  reach  Herschel  Island,  or 
any  other  place  of  refuge  on  the  coast  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie  or  Colville  Rivers,  endeavors  should 
be  made  to  communicate  information  of  the  ships'  posi- 


OPINIONS   AND  BUQGESTI0N8. 


23T 


tion  and  summer's  proceedings  through  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  or  Russian  settlements,  and  by  means 
of  interpreters  ;  and  no  opportunity  should  be  omitted 
of  gaining  from  the  natives  information  of  the  missing 
f essels,  as  well  as  of  any  boat  expeditions  that  may  hav^e 
^one  forward,  as  well  as  of  the  party  under  Dr.  Rae. 

"  If  nothing  should  be  heard  of  Sir  John  Franklin  in 
1850,  parties  of  observation  should  be  sent  forward  in 
the  spring  to  intercept  the  route  the  ship  would  have 
pursued,  and  in  other  useful  directions  between  winter 
quarters  and  Melville  Island  ;  taking  especial  care  that 
they  return  to  the  ship  before  the  time  of  liberation 
of  the  ships  arrives,  which  greatly  depends  upon  their 
locality. 

"  Then,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  should  any 
favorable  appearance  of  the  ice  present  itself,  the  expe- 
dition might  be  left  free  to  take  advantage  of  such  a 
prospect,  or  to  return  round  Point  Barrow  ;  making  it 
imperative,  however,  either  to  insure  their  return,  so 
far  as  human  foresight  may  be  exercised,  or  the  cer- 
tainty of  their  reaching  Melville  Island  at  the  close  of 
that  season,  and  so  securing  their  return  to  England 
in  1852. 

"  If,  after  all,  any  unforeseen  event  should  detain  the 
ships  beyond  the  period  contemplated  above,  every 
exertion  shonJd  be  used,  by  means  of  boats  and  in- 
terpreters, to  communicate  with  the  Mackenzie  ;  and 
should  any  casualty  render  it  necessary  to  abandon  the 
vessels,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  reserve-ship 
will  remain  at  her  quarters  until  the  autumn  of  1853, 
unless  she  hears  of  the  safety  of  the  ships  and  boats 
in  other  directions  ;  while  in  the  other  quarter.  Fort 
Macpherson,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mackenzie,  may  be 
relied  upon  as  an  asylum. 

"The  Plover,  or  resorve-ship,  should  be  provided 
with  three  years'  provisions  for  her  own  crew,  and  for 
contingencies  besides.  She  should  be  placed  as  near 
as  possible  to  Point  Barrow,  and  provided  with  inter- 
preterp,  and  the  means  of  offering  rewards  for  infor- 
mation ;  and  she  should  remain  at  her  quarters  so  long 


!   'A 


i« 


■ 


f 


i 


M 


238 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


m 


it- 


as  there  can  be  any  occasion  for  her  presence  in  tlie 
Arctic  Seas  ;  or,  if  she  does  not  hear  any  thing  of  tlie 
expedition  under  Captain  Collinson,  as  long  as  her 
provisions  will  last." 

Sir  John  Kichardsou  offers  the  following  advice  for 
this  expedition :  — "  If,"  he  says,  "  it  should  winter 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Yucan  or  Colville,  that  river 
may  be  ascended  in  a  boat  in  the  month  of  June,  be- 
fore the  sea  ice  begins  to  give  way.  The  river  varies 
in  width  from  a  mile  ana  a  half  to  two  miles,  aud 
flows  through  a  rich,  well-wooded  valley,  abounding  in 
moose  deer,  and  having  a  comparatively  mild  climate. 
A  Russian  trading  post  has  been  built  on  it,  at  th?  dis 
tance  of  three  or  four  days'  voyage  from  the  sea,  with 
the  current ;  but  as  the  current  is  strong,  from  nine  to 
twelve  days  must  be  allowed  for  its  ascent,  with  the 
tracking  line.  It  would  be  unsafe  to  rely  upon  receiv- 
ing a  supply  of  provisions  at  the  Russian  post,  as  it  is 
not  likely  that  any  stock  beyond  what  is  necessary  for 
their  own  use  is  laid  up  by  the  traders ;  and  the  moose 
deer  being  a  very  shy  animal,  is  not  easily  shot  by  an 
unpracticed  hunter ;  but  the  reindeer  abound  on  the 
neighboring  hills,  and  are  much  more  approachable. 
The  white-fronted  goose  also  breeds  in  vast  flocks  in 
that  district  of  the  country,  and  may  be  killed  in  num- 
bers, without  difficulty,  in  the  month  of  June. 

"  If  the  expedition  should  winter  within  a  reason- 
able distance  of  the  Mackenzie,  Captain  Collinson 
may  have  it  in  his  power  to  send  dispatches  to  England 
by  that  route. 

"The  river  opens  in  June,  and  as  soon  as  the  ice 
ceases  to  drive,  may  be  ascended  in  a  boat,  with  a  fair 
wind,  under  sail,  or  with  a  tracking  line. 

"  The  lowest  post  at  present  occupied  by  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  on  this  river  is  Fort  Good  Hope. 
The  site  of  this  post  has  been  changed  several  times, 
but  it  is  at  this  time  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in 
latitude  66°  16'  N".,  and  is  ten  or  eleven  days'  voyage 
from  tlie  sea.  At  Point  Separation,  opposite  to  the 
middle  channel  of  the  delta  of  the  river,  and  on  the 


OPINIONS   yiND  SUGGESTIONS. 


239 


promontory  which  separates  the  Peel  and  the  Mac- 
kenzie, there  is  a  case  of  pemraican  (80  lbs.)  buried,  ten 
feet  distant  from  a  tree,  which  has  its  middle  branches 
lopped  off,  and  is  marked  on  the  trunk  with  a  broad 
arrow  in  black  paint.  A  fire  was  made  over  the  pit 
in  which  the  case  is  concealed,  and  the  remains  of  tne 
charcoal  will  point  out  the  exact  spot.  This  hoard 
was  visited  last  year  by  a  party  from  Fort  Macpher- 
eon.  Peel's  River,  when  all  was  safe. 

"  Eight  bags  of  pemmican,  weighing  90  lbs.  each, 
were  deposited  at  Fort  Good  Hope  in  1848,  and  would 
remain  there  last  summer  for  the  use  of  any  boat 
parties  that  might  ascend  the  river  in  1849 ;  but  it  is 
probable  that  part,  or  the  whole,  may  have  been  used 
by  the  Company  by  next  year. 

"A  boat  party  should  be  furnished  with  a  small 
seine  and  a  short  herring  net,  by  the  use  of  which  a 
good  supply  of  fish  may  often  be  procured  in  the 
eddies  or  sandy  bays  of  the  Mackenzie.  They  should 
also  be  provided  with  a  good  supply  of  buck-shot,  swan- 
shot,  duck-shot,  and  gunpowder.  The  Loucheux  and 
Hare  Indians  will  readily  give  such  provisions  as  they 
may  happen  to  have,  in  exchange  for  ammunition. 
They  will  expect  to  receive  tobacco  gratuitously,  as 
they  are  accustomed  to  do  from  the  traders. 

"The  Mackenzie  is  the  only  water-way  by  which 
any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts  can  be 
reached  from  the  Arctic  Sea.    There  is  a  post  on  the 
Peel  River  which  enters  the  delta  of  the  Mackenzie, 
but  no  supplies  can  be  procured  there.    To  the  east- 
ward of  the  Mackenzie  no  ship-party  would  have  a 
chance  of  reaching  a  trading  post,  the  nearest  to  the 
sea  being  Fort  Resolution,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  situ- 
ated on  the  61st  parallel  of  latitude,  and  the  interven- 
ing hilly  country,  intersected  by  numerous  lakes  and 
rapid  rivers,  could  not  be  crossed  by  such  a  party  ii 
less  than  an  entire  summer,  even  could  they  depenu 
on  their  guns  for  a  supply  of  food.     Neither  would 
be  advisable  for  a  party  from  the  ships  to  attempt  to 
reach  the  posts  on  the  Mackenzie  by  way  of  the  Cop- 


\t 


M..:., 


K 


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11  Ml- 


1 1 ;!» 


i' . ' 


V  ■ 


.:  ii 


240 


PEOGRESS  OF   AKOTIO   DISCOVERY. 


.J:  i 


pcrmine  Kiver  and  Fort  Confidence;  as,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  means  of  transport  across  Great  Bear  Lake, 
the  journey  round  that  irregular  sheet  of  water,  would 
be  long  and  hazardous.  Bear  Lake  Kiver  is  more 
than  fifty  miles  long,  and  Fort  Norman,  tlie  nearest 
post  on  the  Mackenzie,  is  thirty  miles  above  its  mouth. 
Mr.  Rae  was  instructed  to  engage  an  Indian  family  or 
two  to  hunt  on  the  tract  of  country  between  the  Cop- 

E ermine  and  Great  Bear  Lake  in  the  summer  of  185(1; 
ut  no  great  reliance  can  be  placed  on  these  Indians 
remaining  long  there,  as  they  desert  their  hunting 
quarters  on  very  slight  alarms,  being  in  continual 
dread  of  enemies,  real  or  imaginary. 

"  A  case  of  pemmican  was  buried  on  the  summit  ot 
the  bank,  about  four  or  five  miles  from  the  summit  of 
Cape  Bathurst,  the  spot  being  marked  by  a  pole  planted 
in  the  earth,  and  the  exact  locality  of  the  deposit  by  a  fire 
of  drift-wood,  much  of  which  would  remain  unconsumed. 
"  Another  case  was  deposited  in  the  cleft  of  a  rock, 
on  a  small  battlemented  cliff,  which  forms  the  extreme 
part  of  Cape  Parry.  The  case  was  covered  with  loose 
stones ;  and  a  pile  of  stones  painted  red  and  white, 
was  erected  immediately  in  fi'ont  of  it.  This  cliff"  re- 
sembles a  cocked-hat  in  some  points  of  view,  and  pro- 
jects like  a  tongue  from  the  base  of  a  rounded  hill, 
which  is  600  or  600  feet  high. 

"  Several  cases  of  pemmican  were  left  exposed  on  a 
ledge  of  rocks  in  latitude  68°  35'  N.,  opposite  Lambert 
Island,  in  Dolphin  and  Union  Strait,  and  in  a  bay  to 
the  westward  of  Cape  Krusenstern,  a  small  boat  and 
ten  pieces  of  pemmican  were  deposited  imder  a  high 
cliff,  above  high  water  mark,  without  concealment. 
The  Esquimaux  on  this  part  of  the  coast  are  not  nu- 
merous, and  from  the  position  of  this  hoard,  it  may 
escape  discovery  by  them  ;  but  I  have  every  reason  to 
believe  that  the  locality  has  been  visited  by  Mr.  Rae  in 
the  past  summer.  A  deposit  of  larger  size,  near  Cape 
Kendall,  has  been  more  certainly  visited  by  Mr.  Rae." 
Captain  Sir  J.  C.  Ross  writes  from  Haslar,  11th  of 
February,  1850. 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


2il 


"  With  respect  to  the  probable  position  of  tLe  Erebus 
and  Terror,  1  consider  that  it  is  hardly  possible  they 
can  be  anywhere  to  the  eastward  of  Melville  Island, 
or  within  300  miles  of  Leopold  Island,  for  if  that  were 
the  case,  they  would  assuredly,  during  the  last  spring, 
have  made  their  way  to  that  point,  with  the  hope  of 
receiving  assistance  from  the  whale-ships  which,  foi 
several  years  previous  to  the  departure  of  that  expedi- 
tion from  England,  had  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting 
Prince  Regent  Inlet  in  pursuit  of  whales  ;  and  in  that 
case  they  must  have  been  met  with,  or  marks  of  their 
encampments  have  been  found  by  some  of  the  numer- 
ous parties  detached  from  the  Enterprise  and  Investi- 
gator along  the  shores  of  that  vicinity  during  the  only 
period  of  the  season  in  which  traveling  is  practicable 
in  those  regions. 

"It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  during  their  first 
Slimmer,  which  was  remarkably  favorable  for  the  navi- 
gation of  those  seas,  they  have  been  enabled  (in  obedi- 
ence to  their  orders)  to  push  the  ships  to  the  westward 
of  Banks'  land,  and  have  there  become  involved  in  the 
heavy  pack  of  ice  which  was  observed  from  Melville 
Island  always  to  be  setting  past  its  westernmost  point 
in  a  southeast  direction,  and  from  which  pack  they  may 
not  have  been  able  to  extricate  their  ships. 

"  From  such  a  position,  retreat  to  the  eastward  would 
be  next  to  impossible,  while  the  journey  to  the  Mac- 
kenzie River,  of  comparatively  easy  accomplishment, 
together  with  Sir  John  Franklin's  knowledge  of  the 
resources  in  the  way  and  of  its  practicability,  would 
strengthen  the  belief  that  this  measure  will  have  been 
adopted  by  them. during  the  last  spring. 

"If  this  be  assumed  as  the  present  position  of  the 
Erebus  and  Terror,  it  would  manifestly  be  far  more 
easy  and  safe  to  afford  them  relief  by  means  of  an  ex- 
pedition entering  Behring's  Straits,  than  from  any  other 
direction,  as  it  would  not  be  necessary  for  the  ships  to 
depart  so  far  from  the  coast  of  North  America  as  to 
preclude  their  keeping  up  a  regular  communication 
with  the  Russian  settlements  on  the  River  Colville,  or 

16 


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J 


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1 


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i   ; 


m. 


242 


rROOKESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie,  while  the  whole  space  between  any 
position  in  which  the  ships  might  winter,  and  EankB' 
Land  could  be  thoroughly  examined  by  traveling  i)ar- 
ties  early  in  the  spring,  or  by  boats  or  steam  launches 
at  a  more  advanced  period  of  the  following  season." 

Mr.  W.  Snow,  in  a  letter  from  New  York,  dated  7th 
of  January,  1850,  suggests  a  plan  for  a  well  organized 
expedition  of  as  many  men  as  could  be  fitted  out  from 
private  funds.  "  For  instance,  let  a  party  of  100  picked 
men,  well  disciplined  and  officered,  as  on  board  a  ship, 
and  accompanied  with  all  the  necessary  food,  scientitic 
instruments,  and  every  thing  useful  on  such  expeditions, 
proceed  immediately,  by  the  shortest  and  most  avail- 
able routes,  to  the  lands  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  un- 
explored regions.  If  possible,  I  would  suggest  that 
they  should  proceed  first  to  Moose  Fort,  on  the  south 
ern  part  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  thence  by  small  craft 
to  Chesterfield  Inlet,  or  otherwise  by  land  reach  that 
quarter,  so  as  to  arrive  there  at  the  opening  of  summer. 
From  this  neighborhood  let  the  party,  minus  ten  men, 
be  divided  into  three  separate  detachments,  each  with 
specific  instructions  to  extend  their  researches  in  a 
northerly  and  northwesterly  direction.  The  wbfitern- 
most  party  to  proceed  as  near  as  possible  in  a  direct 
course  to  the  easternmost  limits  of  discovery  yet  made 
from  Behring's  Straits,  and  on  no  account  to  deviate 
from  that  course  on  the  western  side  of  it,  but.,  if  ne- 
cessary, to  the  eastward.  Let  the  central  party  shape  a 
course  as  near  as  possible  to  the  position  of  the  Mag- 
netic Pole ;  and  the  easternmost  division  direct  tc 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  or  the  westernmost  point  of  dis- 
covery from  the  east,  and  not  to  deviate  from  that  course 
easterly.  Let  each  of  these  detachments  be  formed 
again  into  three  divisions,  each  division  thus  consisting 
of  ten  men.  Let  the  first  division  of  each  detachment 
pioneer  the  way,  followed  on  the  same  track  by  tht 
second  and  the  third,  at  stated  intervals  of  time.  On 
the  route,  let  the  pioneers,  at  every  spot  necessary,  leave* 
distinguishing  marks  to  denote  the  way,  and  also  to 


T1 


OPINIONS   AND   SUOCilSTIONS. 


243 


give  information  to  either  of  the  other  two  principal 
detachments  as  may  by  chance  fall  into  their  track 
To  second  the  efibrts  of  the  three  detachments,  let  con 
stant  succors  and  other  assistance  bo  forwarded  hy 
way  of  Moose  Fort,  and  through  the  ten  men  left  at 
Cliesterfield  Inlet ;  and  should  the  object  for  which 
such  an  expedition  was  framed  be  happily  accom- 
plished by  the  return  of  the  lost  voyagers,  let  messen- 
gers be  torwarded  with  the  news,  as  was  done  with 
Captain  Back,  in  the  case  of  Captain  Ross.  Let  each 
of  the  extreme  detachments,  upon  arriving  at  their  re- 
spective destinations,  and  upon  being  joined  by  the 
whole  of  their  body,  proceed  to  form  plans  for  uniting 
with  the  central  party,  and  ascertaining  the  results 
already  obtained  by  each  by  sending  parties  in  that 
direction.  Also,  let  a  chosen  number  oe  sent  out  from 
each  detachment  as  exploring  parties,  wherever  deemed 
requisite ;  and  let  no  effort  be  wanted  to  make  a  search 
in  every  direction  where  there  is  a  possibility  of  its 
proving  successful. 

"  If  a  public  and  more  extensive  expedition  be  set  on 
foot,  I  would  most  respectfully  draw  attention  to  the 
following  suggestions: — Let  a  land  expedition  be  formed 
upon  a  similar  plan,  and  vdth  the  same  number  of  men, 
say  300  or  more,  as  those  fitted  out  for  sea.  Let  this 
expedition  be  formed  into  three  great  divisions ;  the  one 
proceeding  by  the  Athabasca  to  the  Great  Slave  Lake> 
and  following  out  Captain  Back's  discoveries ;  the 
second,  through  the  Churchill  district ;  or,  with  the 
third,  according  to  the  plan  laid  out  for  a  private  expe- 
dition alone  ;  only  keeping  the  whole  of  their  forces  as 
much  as  possible  bearing  upon  the  points  where  success 
may  be  most  likely  attainable. 

"  Each  of  these  three  great  divisions  to  be  subdivided 
and  arranged  also  as  in  the  former  case.  The  expense 
of  an  expedition  of  this  kind,  with  all  the  necessary 
outlay  for  provisions,  &c.,  I  do  not  think  would  be  more 
than  half  what  the  same  would  cost  if  sent  by  sea  ;  but 
of  this  I  am  not  a  competent  judge,  having  no  definite 
means  to  make  a  comparison.    But  there  is  yet  another, 


i  ii 


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rt:'! 


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4. 


i! 
i  '  ■ 

,  I 


244 


IMtOOKKSS   OF   AKOTIO    Dl^COVKUY. 


and,  I  cannot  help  conceiving,  a  more  easy  way  of  o|>. 
visiting  all  (litliciilty  on  this  point,  and  of  reducing  the 
experiHo  conHidorahly. 

"It  must  bo  evident  that  the  present  position  of  the 
arctic  voyagers  is  not  very  accessible,  either  by  land 
or  sea,  else  the  distinguished  loader  at  the  head  of  tlui 
expedition  would  long  ere  this  have  tracked  a  nmUi 
whereby  the  whole  party,  or  at  least  some  of  tliciu 
could  return. 

"In  such  a  case,  therefore,  the  only  way  to  roa(!h 
them  is  by,  if  I  may  use  the  expression,, /(^/'cmy  an  ex- 
pedition on  toward  them  ;  I  mean,  by  keeping  it  con- 
stantly upheld  and  pushing  onward.  There  may  be, 
and  indeed  there  are,  very  great  ditHculties,  and  ditH- 
culties  of  such  a  nature  that,  I  believe,  they  would 
themselves  cause  another  great  difficulty  in  the  procur- 
ing of  men.  But,  if  I  might  make  another  bold  sug- 
gestion, I  would  respectfully  ask  our  government  at 
home,  why  not  employ  picked  men  from  convictcMl 
criminals,  as  is  done  in  exploring  expeditions  in  Aus- 
tralia ?  Inducements  might  be  held  out  to  them  ;  and 
by  proper  care  they  would  be  made  most  serviceable 
auxiliaries.  Generally  speaking,  men  convicted  of 
offenses  are  men  possessed  of  almost  inexhaustible 
mental  resources ;  and  such  men  are  the  men  who, 
w^th  physical  powers  of  endurance,  are  precisely  those 
required.  But  this  I  speak  of,  merely,  if  sufficient  free 
men  could  not  be  found,  and  if  economy  is  studied." 

Mr.  John  McLean,  who  has  been  twenty-five  years  a 
partner  and  officer  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and 
has  published  an  interesting  narrative  of  his  adven- 
tures and  experience,  writing  to  Lady  Franklin  from 
Canada  "West,  in  January,  1850,  suggests  the  following 
very  excellent  plan  as  likely  to  produce  sorhe  intelli- 
gence, if  not  to  lead  to  a  discovery  of  the  party. 

"  Let  a  small  schooner  of  some  thirty  or  forty  tons 
burden,  built  with  a  view  to  draw  as  little  water  as 
possible,  and  as  strong  as  wood  and  iron  could  make 
her,  be  dispatched  from  England  in  company  with  the 
Hudson's  Bay  ships.    This  vessel  would,  immediately 


OriNloNS   AND  BtrOOEfiTIONa. 


245 


-1  arr.ving  at  York  Factory,  proceed  to  the  Strait 
...med  Sir  Thomas  Ko»3'h  Welcome,  which  divides 
Southampton  iHland  from  the  main-land  ;  then  dirc(!fc 
her  course  to  Wager  River,  and  proceed  onward  until 
interrupted  by  insurmountable  oDstacles.  The  party 
being  safely  landed,  I  would  recommend  their  remain- 
ing stationary  until  winter  traveling  became  practicable, 
when  they  should  sot  out  for  the  shores  of  the  Arctic 
Sea,  which,  by  a  reference  to  Arrowsmith's  map,  ap- 
pears to  be  only  some  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant  ; 
then  dividing  in  two  parties  or  divisions,  the  one  would 
proceed  east,  the  other  west ;  and  I  think  means  could 
be  devised  of  exploring  250  or  300  miles  in  either 
direction  ;  and  here  a  very  important  question  pre- 
sents itself, —  how  and  by  what  means  is  this  enterprise 
to  be  accomplished  ? 

"  In  the  first  place,  the  services  of  Esquimaux  would 
be  indispensable,  for  the  twofold  reason,  that  no  reliable 
information  can  be  obtained  from  the  natives  without 
their  aid,  and  that  they  alone  properly  understand  the 
art  of  preparing  snow-houses,  or  '  igloes,'  for  winter  en- 
campment, the  only  lodging  which  tho  desolate  wastes 
of  the  arctic  regions  aiford.  Esquimaux  understanding 
the  English  language  sufficiently  well  to  answer  our 
purpose,  frequent  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post 
m  Labrador,  some  of  whom  might  be  induced,  (I  should 
fain  hope,)  to  engage  for  the  expedition  ,  or  probably 
the  '  half-breed  '  natives  might  do  so  more  readily  than 
the  aborigines.  They  should,  if  possible,  be  strong, 
active  men,  and  good  marksmen,  and  not  less  than  four 
in  number.  Failing  in  the  attempt  to  procure  the  na- 
tives of  Labrador,  then  I  should  think  Esquimaux 
might  be  obtained  at  Churchill,  in  Hudson's  Bay  ;  the 
two  who  accompanied  Sir  John  in  his  first  land  expedi- 
tion were  from  this  quarter." 

An  expedition  of  this  kind  is  to  be  sent  out  by  Lady 
Franklin  this  spring  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Kennedy. 
There  are  various  ways  of  accomplishing  this  object, 
the  choice  of  which  must  mainly  depend  on  the  views 
and  wishes  of  the  officer  who  may  undertake  the  com 


P' 


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iW: 


246 


PROGRESS  OF  AROTIO  DISCOVERY. 


^■'  '■', 


mand.  Besides  the  northern  route,  or  that  by  Regent 
Inlet,  it  is  possible  to  reach  Sir  James  Ross  and  Simp- 
son's Straits  from  the  south,  entering  Hudson's  Bay, 
and  passing  up  the  Welcome  to  Rae  Isthmus,  or  again 
by  entering  Chesterfield  or  "Wager  Inlet,  and  gainiiig 
the  coast  by  Back's  or  the  Great  Fish  River. 

By  either  of  these  routes  a  great  part  of  the  explora- 
tion must  be  made  in  boats  or  on  foot.  In  every  case 
the  main  points  to  be  searched  are  James  Ross's  Strait 
and  Simpson's  Strait,  if  indeed  there  be  a  passage  in 
that  direction,  as  laid  down  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  charts, 
though  contradicted  by  Mr.  Rae,  and  considered  still 
doubtful  by  some  arctic  navigators. 

The  following  extract  from  the  Geographical  Jour- 
nal shows  the  opinion  of  Franklin  upon  the  search  of 
this  quarter.  Dr.  Richardson  says,*--  -"  No  better  plan 
can  be  proposed  than  the  one  suggested  by  Sir  John 
Franklin,  of  sending  a  vessel  to  Wa^er  River,  and  car- 
rying on  the  sur\rey  from  thence  in  boats." 

Sir  John  Franklin  observes,! — ''  The  Doctor  alludes 
in  his  letter  to  some  propositions  which  he  knew  I  had 
made  in  the  year  1828,  at  the  command  of  his  present 
Majesty,, ^William  IV.,)  on  the  same  subject,  and  partic- 
ularly to  th<5  suggestion  as  to  proceeding  from  Repulse 
or  Wager  Bay.  *  *  *  A  recent  careful  reading  of  all 
the  narratives  connected  with  the  surveys  of  the  Wager 
and  Repulse  Bays.  r.nd  of  Sir  Edward  Carry's  Voyage, 
together  with  the  information  obtained  from  the  Esqui- 
maux by  Sir  Edward  Parry,  Sir  John  lioss,  and  Cap- 
tain Back,  confirm  me  in  opinion  that  a  successful  de- 
lineation of  the  coast  east  of  Point  Turnagain  to  the 
Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla,  would  be  oest  attained 
by  an  expedition  proceeding  from  Wager  Bay,  the 
northern  parts  of  which  cannot,  I  think,  be  farther  dis- 
tant than  forty  miles  from  the  sea,  if  the  information 
received  by  the  above-mentioned  officers  can  be  de- 
pended on." 

Dr.  McCormick  particularly  draws  attention  to  Jones* 
and  Smith's  Sounds,  recommending  a  careful  examin 

*  Journal  of  Geographical  Society,  vol.  vi.  p.  40.         t  Ibid.  p.  43. 


t- 


OPimONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


247 


ation  of  these  to  their  probable  termination  in  the 
Polar  Sea : — 

"  Jones'  Sound,  with  the  Wellington  Channel  on  the 
west,  may  be  found  to  form  an  island  of  the  land  called 
'  North  Devon.'  / 11  prominent  positions  on  both  sides 
of  these  Sounds  should  be  searched  for  flag  staves  and 
piles  of  stones,  under  whcih  copper  cylinders  or  bot- 
tles may  have  been  deposited,  containing  accounts  of 
the  proceedings  of  the  missing  expedition  ;  and  if  suc- 
oesstul  in  getting  upon  its  track,  a  clue  would  be  ob- 
tained to  the  fate  of  our  gallant  countrymen." 

The  Wellington  Channel  he  considers  affords  one  of 
the  best  chances  of  crossing  the  track  of  the  missing 
expedition. 

To  carry  out  this  plan  efficiently,  he  recommended 
that  a  boat  should  be  dropped,  by  the  ship  conveying 
the  searching  party  out;  at  the  entrance  to  the  Welling- 
ton Channel  in  Barrow's  Strait ;  from  this  point  one  or 
both  sides  of  that  channel  and  the  northern  shores  of 
the  Parry  Islands  might  be  explored  as  far  west  as  the 
season  would  permit  of.    But  should  the  ship  be  en- 
abled  to  look  into  Jones'  Sound,  on  her  way  to  Lancas- 
ter Sound,  and  find  that  opening  free  from  ice,  an 
attempt  might  be  made  by  the  Boat  Expedition  to  push 
through  it  inf-*  the  Wellington  Channel.    In  the  event, 
however,  of  its  proving  to  be  merely  an  inlet,  which  a 
short  delay  v:  juld  be  sufficient  to  decide,  the  ship  might 
perhaps  be  in  readiness  to  pick  up  the  boat  on  ite  re-  / 
turn,  for  conveyance  to  its  ultimate  destination  through ' 
Lancaster  Sound  ;  or  as  a  precaution  against  any  un- 
foreseen separation  from  the  ship,  a  depot  of  provisions 
should  be  left  at  the  entrance  to  Jones'  Sound  for  the 
boat  to  complete  its  supplies  from,  after  accomplishing 
the  exploration  of  this  inlet,  and  to  afford  the  means,! 
if  compelled  from  an  advanced  period  of  the  season 
or  other  adverse  circumstances,  of  reaching  some  place>5^ 
of  refuge,  either  on  board  a  whaler  or  some  one  of  the' 
depots  oi  provisions  on  the  southern  shores  of  Barrow's" 
Strait. 


In- 

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24S 


PROGRESS   OP  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


Mr.  Perny,  in  charge  of  the  Lady  Franklin,  before 
'ailinp^,  observed  : — 

"  If  an  early  passage  be  obtained,  I  would  examine 
rones'  Sound,  as  I  have  generally  found  in  all  my  early 
voyages  clear  water  at  the  mouth  of  that  sound,  and 
*^here  is  a  probability  that  an  earlier  passage  by  this 
route  might  be  found  into  Wellington  Strait,  which  out- 
let ought  by  all  means  to  be  thoroughly  examined  at 
the  earliest  opportunity,  since,  if  Sir  J.  Franklin  had 
taken  that  route,  with  the  hope  of  finding  a  passage 
westward,  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  and  Melville 
Islands,  he  may  be  beyond  the  power  of  helping  him- 
self. No  trace  of  the  expedition,  or  practical  commu- 
nication with  Wellington  Strait,  being  obtained  in  this 
quarter,  I  would  proceed  in  time  to  take  advantage  of 
the  first  opening  of  the  ice  in  Lancaster  Sound,  with 
the  view  of  proceeding  to  the  west  and  entering  "Wel- 
lington Strait,  or  if  this  should  not  be  practicable,  of 
proceeding  farth<,  ^vestward  to  Cape  "Walker,  and  be- 
yond, on  one  or  other  of  which  places  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin will  probably  have  left  some  notices  of  his  course." 

The  government  has  seen  the  urgent  necessity  of 
causing  the  Wellington  Channel  to  be  carefully  exam- 
ined ;  imperative  orders  were  sent  to  Sir  James  Ross 
to  search  it,  but  he  was  drifted  out  of  Barrow's  Strait 
against  his  will,  before  he  received  those  orders  by  the 
North  Star. 

I  have  already  stated  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  in- 
structions directed  him  to  try  the  first  favorable  open- 
ing to  the  southwest  after  passing  Cape  Walker ;  and 
failing  in  that,  to  try  the  Wellington  Channel.  Every 
ofiicer  in  the  British  Service,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
follows  his  instrii'Aitions,  as  far  as  they  are  compatible 
with  the  exigencies  of  the  case,  be  it  what  it  may,  nor 
ever  deviates  from  them  without  good  and  justifiable 
cause.  If,  then,  Sir  John  Franklin  failed  in  finding  an 
opening  to  the  southwest  of  Cape  Walker  it  is  reason- 
able to  suppose  ho  obeyed  his  instructions,  and  tried 
tlie  Wellington  Channel.  The  second  probability  in 
favor  of  this  locality  is,  that  Sir  John  Franklin  ex- 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


249 


pressed  o  many  of  his  friends  a  favorable  opinion  of 
the  Wellington  Channel,  and,  which  is  of  far  more 
consequence,  intimated  his  opinion  officially,  and  be- 
fore the  expedition  was  determined  upon,  that  this 
strait  se&med  to  offer  the  best  chance  of  success. 

Moreover,  Capt.  Fitzjames,  his  immediate  second  in 
command  in  the  Erebus,  was  strongly  in  favor  of  the 
Wellington  Channel,  and  always  so  expressed  himself. 
See  his  letter,  before  quoted,  to  Sir  John  Barrow,  p.  203. 

Who  can  doubt  that  the  opinion  of  Capt.  Fitzjames, 
a  man  of  superior  mind,  beloved  by  all  who  know  him, 
f*nd  in  the  service  "•  the  observed  of  all  observers,"  would 
have  great  weight  with  Sir  John  Franklin,  even  if  Sir 
John  had  not  been  liimseif  predisposed  to  listen  to  him. 
What  adds  confirmation  to  these  views  is,  that  in  1840, 
a  few  years  prior  to  the  starting  of  the  expedition,  Col. 
Sabine  published  the  deeply  interesting  "i^arrative  of 
Baron  Wrangcl's  Expedition  to  the  PoUr  Sea,  under- 
taken between  the  years  1820  and  1823,"  and  in  his  pre- 
face the  translator  points  to  the  Wellington  Channel  as 
the  most  likely  course  for  the  successful  accomplishment 
of  the  northwest  passage.  "Setting  aside"  he  says, 
"the  possibility  ot  the  existence  of  unknown  land,  the 
probability  of  an  open  sea  existing  to  the  north  of  the 
rarry  islands,  and  communicating  with  Behring  Strait, 
appears  to  rest  on  strict  analogical  reasoning."  And 
again  he  adds, "  all  the  attempts  to  eftect  the  northwest 
passage,  since  Barrow's  Strait  was  first  passed  in  1819, 
have  consisted  in  an  endeavor  to  force  a  vessel  by  one 
route  or  another  through  this  land-locked  and  ice-encum- 
bered portion  of  the  f  olar  Ocean." 

No  examination  has  made  known  what  may  be  the 
state  of  the  sea  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  islands ; 
whether  Pimilar  impediments  may  there  present  them- 
selves to  navigation,  or  whether  a  sea  may  not  there 
exist  offering  no  difficulties  whatever  of  the  kind,  as  M. 
Von  Wrangel  has  shown  to  be  the  case  to  the  north  of 
the  Siberian  Islands,  and  as  by  strict  analogy  we  should 
be  justified  in  expecting. 
Colonel  Sabine  is  an  officer  of  great  scientific  expe- 


■»:>„ 


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250 


PROGRBSB   OF   AKCTIO   DI800VEKY. 


rience,  and  from  his  having  made  several  polar  voyages, 
he  has  devoted  great  attention  to  all  that  relates  to  tliat 
quarter.  He  was  in  constant  communication  with  Sir 
John  Franklin  when  the  expedition  was  fitting  out,  and 
it  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that  he  would  be  some- 
what guided  by  his  opinion. 

We  have,  then,  the  opinions  of  Franklin  himself. 
Colonel  Sabine,  and  Captain  Fitzjames,  all  bearing  on 
this  point,  and  we  must  remember  that  Parry,  who  dis- 
covered and  named  this  channel,  saw  nothing  when 
passing  and  re-passing  it,  but  a  clear  open  sea  to  the 
northward. 

Lieut.  S.  Osborn,  in  a  paper  dated  the  4:th  of  January, 
1850,  makes  the  following  suggestions  : — 

"General  opinion  places  the  lost  expedition  to  the 
west  of  Cape  W  alker,  and  south  of  the  latitude  of  Mel- 
ville Island.  The  distance  from  Cape  Bathurst  to  Banks' 
Land  is  only  301  miles,  and  on  reference  to  a  chart  it 
will  be  seen  that  nowhere  else  does  the  American  conti- 
nent approach  so  near  to  the  supposed  position  of  Frank- 
lin's expedition. 

"  Banks'  Land  bears  from  Cape  Bathurst  N.  41°  49', 
E.  302  miles,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in  the 
summer  season  a  portion  of  this  distance  may  be  trav- 
ersed in  boats. 

"  Dr.  Richardson  confirms  previous  reports  of  the  ice 
being  light  on  the  coast  east  of  the  Mackenzie  Biver  lo 
Cape  Bathurst,  and  informs  us  that  the  Esquimaux  had 
seen  '  no  ice  to  seaward  for  two  moons.' 

''  Every  mile  traversed  northward  by  a  party  from 
Cape  Bathurst  would  be  over  that  unknown  space  in 
which  traces  of  Franklin  may  be  expected.  It  is  advis- 
able that  such  a  second  party  be  dispatched  from  Cape 
Bathurst,  in  order  that  the  prosecution  of  Dr.  Rae's 
examination  of  the  supposed  channel  between  AYoUas- 
ton  and  Victoria  Lands  may  in  no  way  be  interfered 
with,  by  his  attention  being  called  to  the  westward." 

In  March,  1848,  the  Admiralty  announced  their  inten- 
tion of  rewarding  the  crews  of  any  whaling  ships  that 
brought  accurate  information  of  the  missing  expedition, 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


251 


wirh  the  sum  of  100  guineas  or  more,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances. Lady  Franklin  also  about  the  same  time 
offered  rewards  of  2000^.  and  3000^.,  to  be  distributed 
amonff  the  owner,  officers,  and  crew  discovering  and 
affording  relief  to  her  husband,  or  making  extraordi- 
nary exertions  for  the  above  object,  and,  if  required, 
bringing  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party  to  England. 

In  March,  1850,  the  following  further  rewards  were 
offered  by  the  British  government  to  persons  of  any 
country : — 

1st.  To  any  party  or  person  who  in  the  judgment  of 
the  Board  of  Admiralty,  shall  discover  and  effectually 
relieve  the  crows  of  H.  M.  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  the 
sum  of  20,000Z.,  or, 

2d.  To  any  party  or  parties,  &c.,  who  shall  discover 
and  effectually  relieve  any  portion  of  the  crews,  or  shall 
convey  such  intelligence  as  shall  lead  to  the  relief  of 
any  of  the  crew,  the  sum  of  10,000Z. 

3d.  To  any  party  or  parties  who  shall  by  virtue  of 
his  or  their  efforts,  first  succeed  in  ascertaining  their 
fate,  10,000Z. 

In  a  dispatch  from  Sir  George  Simpson  to  Mr.  Rae, 
dated  Lachine,  the  21st  of  January,  1850,  he  says : — 

"If  they  be  still  alive,  I  feel  satisfied  that  every  effort 
it  may  be  in  the  power  of  man  to  make  to  succor  them 
will  be  exerted  by  yourself  and  the  Company's  officers 
In  Mackenzie  River ;  but  should  your  late  search  have 
unfortunately  ended  in  disappointment,  it  is  the  desire 
of  the  Company  that  you  renew  your  explorations  next 
summer,  if  possible. 

"  By  the  annexed  correspondence  you  will  observe  that 
the  opinion  in  England  appears  to  be  that  our  explora- 
tions ought  to  be  more  particularly  directed  to  that  por- 
tion of  the  Korthern  Sea  lying  between  Cape  Walker 
on  the  east,  Melville  Island  and  Banks'  Land  to  the 
north,  and  the  continental  shore  or  the  Victoria  Islands 
to  the  south. 

"  As  these  limits  are  believed  to  embrace  the  course 
that  would  have  been  pursued  by  Sir  John  Franklin, 
Cape  Walker  being  one  of  the  points  he  was  particu- 
16  K 


•Ill 


',  mm 


}!i  . 


V::) 


252 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


larly  instructed  to  make  for,  you  will  therefore  be 
pleased,  immediately  on  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  to  lit 
out  another  exploring  party,  to  proceed  in  the  direction 
above  indicated,  but  varying  the  route  that  may  liave 
been  followed  last  summer,  which  party,  besides  their 
own  examination  of  the  coast  and  islands,  should  be 
instructed  to  ofter  liberal  rewards  to  the  Esquimaux  to 
search  for  some  vestiges  of  the  missing  expedition,  and 
similar  rewards  should  be  offered  to  tne  Indians  inhab 
iting  near  the  coast  and  Peel's  River,  and  the  half  bred 
hunters  of  Mackenzie  River,  the  latter  being,  perhaps, 
more  energetic  than  the  former;  assuring  them  that 
whoever  may  procure  authentic  intelligence  will  be 
largely  rewarded. 

"  Simultaneously  with  the  expedition  to  proceed  to- 
ward Cape  "Walker,  one  or  two  small  parties  should  be 
dispatched  to  the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  in  the 
direction  of  Point  Barrow,  one  of  which  might  pass  over 
to  the  Youcon  River,  and  descending  that  stream  to  the 
sea,  carry  on  their  explorations  in  that  quarter,  while 
the  other,  going  down  the  Mackenzie,  might  trace  the 
coast  thence  toward  the  Youcon.  And  these  parties 
must  also  be  instructed  to  offer  rewards  to  the  natives 
to  prosecute  the  search  in  all  directions. 

"  By  these  means  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in 
the  course  of  one  year  so  minute  a  search  may  be  made 
of  the  coast  and  the  islands,  that  in  the  event  of  the 
expedition  having  passed  in  that  direction,  some  trace 
of  their  progress  would  certainly  be  discovered. 

"  From  your  experience  in  arctic  discovery,  and  pe- 
culiar qualifications  for  such  an  undertaking,  I  am  in 
hopes  you  may  be  enabled  yourself  to  assume  the 
command  of  the  party  to  proceed  to  the  northward ; 
and,  as  leaders  of  the  two  parties  to  explore  the  coast 
to  the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  you  will  have  to 
select  such  officers  of  the  Company's  service  within 
the  district  as  may  appear  best  qualified  for  the  duty: 
Mr.  Murray,  I  think,  would  be  a  very  fit  man  for  one 
of  the  leaders,  and  if  one  party  be  sent  by  way  of  the 
Y(nicon,  he  might  take  charge  of  it.     In  the  event  of 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


253 


your  going  on  this  expedition,  you  will  be  pleased  to 
make  over  the  charge  of  the  district  to  Chief  Trader 
Bell  during  your  absence. 

"In  case  you  may  be  short-handed,  I  have  by  this 
conveyance  instructed  Chief  Factor  Ballenden  to  en- 
gage in  Red  River  ten  choice  men,  accustomed  to  boat- 
ing, and  well  fitted  for  such  a  duty  as  will  be  required 
of  them;  and  if  there  be  a  chance  of  their  reaching 
Mackenzie  River,  or  even  Athabasca,  before  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice,  to  forward  them  immediately. 

"  Should  the  season,  however,  be  too  far  advanced 
to  enable  them  to  accomplish  the  journey  by  winter 
traveling,  Mr.  Ballenden  is  directed  to  increase  the 
party  to  fourteen  men,  with  a  guide  to  be  dispatched 
from  Red  River  immediately  after  the  opening  of  the 
navigation,  in  two  beats,  laden  with  provisions  and 
flour,  and  a  few  bales  of  clothing,  in  order  to  meet,  in 
fioine  degree,  the  heavy  drain  that  will  be  occasioned 
on  our  resources  in  provisions  and  necessary  supplies 
m  Mackenzie  River.  The  leader  of  this  party  from 
Red  River  may,  perhaps,  be  qualified  to  act  as  the 
conductor  of  one  of  the  parties  to  examine  the  coast 
to  the  westward." 

On  the  5th  of  February,  1850,  another  consultation 
took  place  at  the  Admiralty  among  those  officers  most 
experienced  in  these  matters,  and  their  opinions  in 
writing  were  solicited.  It  is  important,  therefore,  to 
submit  these  as  fully  as  possible  to  the  consideration 
of  the  reader. 

The  first  is  the  report  of  the  hydrographer  of  the 
Admiralty,  dated  the  29th  of  January,  1850:  — 

^''Memorandum  hy  Rear- Admiral  Sir  Fi^ancis  Beau 

fort,  K.  C.  B. 

"The  Behring's  Strait  expedition  being  at  length 
lairly  off',  it  appears  to  me  to  be  a  duty  to  subm.it  to 
their  Lordships  that  no  time  should  now  be  lost  in 
equipping  another  set  of  vessels  to  renew  the  search 
on  the  opposite  side,  through  Baffin's  Bay;  and  this 
being  the  fifth  year  that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  hiive 


'■  I'*  N. 

IB' 

•  n » . 
';)•■, 

'  '\> 

•■f 


lliil 


I"'    !l 


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:'i,|i  i 


I 


254 


PROGRESS   OF  AROTIO    DISCOVERY. 


been  absent,  nnd  probably  reduced  to  only  casual  sup- 
plies  of  food  and  fuel,  it  may  be  assumed  that  this 
search  should  be  so  complete  and  eftectual  as  to  leave 
unexamined  no  place  in  which,  by  any  of  the  supposi- 
tions that  have  been  put  forward,  it  is  at  all  likely  they 
may  be  found. 

"  Sir  John  Franklin  is  not  a  man  to  treat  his  orders 
with  levity,  and  therofore  his  first  attempt  was  un- 
doubtedly made  in  the  direction  of  Melville  Island,  and 
not  to  the  westward.  If  foiled  in  that  attempt,  he 
naturally  hauled  to  the  southward,  and  using  Banks' 
Land  as  a  barrier  against  the  northern  ice,  he  would 
try  to  make  westing  under  its  lee.  Thirdly,  if  both  of 
these  ruads  were  found  closed  against  his  advance,  he 
perhaps  availed  himself  of  one  of  the  four  passages 
between  the  Parry  Islands,  including  the  "VYeilington 
Channel.  Or,  lastly,  he  may  have  returned  to  Baffin's 
Buy  and  taken  the  inviting  opening  of  Jones'  Sound. 

"i/Jl  those  fonr  tracks  must  therefore  be  diligently 
examiiied  before  the  search  can  be  called  complete, 
and  the  only  method  of  rendering  that  examination 
prompt  and  efficient  will  be  through  the  medium  of 
steam ;  while  only  useless  expense  and  reiterated  dis- 
appointment will  attend  the  best  efforts  of  sailing  ves- 
sels, leaving  the  lingeringr  survivors  of  the  lost  ships,, 
as  well  as  their  relatives  in  England,  in  equal  despair. 
Had  Sir  James  Ross  been  in  a  steam  vessel,  he  would 
not  have  been  surrounded  with  ice  and  swept  out  of 
the  Strait,  but  by  shooting  under  the  protection  of  Leo- 
pold Island,  he  would  have  waited  there  till  that  fatal 
field  had  passed  to  the  eastward,  and  he  then  would 
have  found  a  perfectly  open  sea  up  to  Melville  Island. 

"The  best  application  of  steam  to  ice-going  vessek 
would  be  Ericson's  screw ;  but  the  screw  or  paddles  of 
any  of  our  moderate-sized  vessels  might  be  made  t( 
elevate  .vith  facility.  Vessels  so  fit.:ed  would  ■  ot  re- 
quire to  be  fortified  in  an  extraordinary  degree,  not 
more  than  common  whalers.  From  the  log-like  quies- 
cence with  which  a  sailing  vessel  must  await  the  crush 
of  two  approaching  floes,  they  must  be  as  strong  aa 


Ill    iiiiwiii -■-"^ 


"''^■*>l( 


OPINIONS   AND   8UOOESTION8. 


255 


wood  and  iron  can  make  them  ;  but  the  steamer  slips 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  collision,  waits  till  the  shock  is 
past,  and  then  profiting  by  their  mutual  recoil,  darts 
at  once  through  the  transient  opening. 

"Two  such  vessels,  and  each  of  them  attended  by 
two  tenders  laden  with  coals  and  provisions,  would  be 
sufficient  for  the  main  lines  of  search.  Every  promi- 
nent point  of  land  where  notices  might  have  been  left, 
woulu  be  visited,  details  of  their  own  proceedings  would 
be  deposited,  and  each  of  the  tenders  would  bo  left  in 
proper  positions,  as  points  of  rendezvous  on  which  to 
fall  back. 

"Besides  these  two  branches  of  the  expedition,  it 
would  be  well  to  allow  the  whaling  captain  (Penny,)  to 
carry  out  his  proposed  undertaking.  His  local  knowl- 
edge, his  thoroug-n  acquaintance  with  all  the  mysteries 
of  the  ice  navigation,  and  his  well  known  skill  and 
resourc  s,  soem  to*  point  him  out  as  a  most  valuable 
auxiliary. 

"  But  whatever  vessels  may  be  chosen  for  this  service, 
I  would  beseech  their  lordships  to  expedite  them ;  all 
our  attempts  have  been  deferred  too  long  ;  and  there  is 
now  reason  to  believe  that  very  early  in  the  season,  in 
May  or  even  in  April,  Baffin's  Bay  may  be  crossed  be- 
fore the  accumulated  ice  of  winter  spreads  over  its 
surface.  If  they  arrive  rather  too  soon,  they  may  very 
advanta/jjeously  await  the  proper  moment  in  some  of 
the  Greenland  harbors,  preparing  themselves  for  the 
coming  cfTbrts  and  struggles,  and  procuring  Esquimaux 
interpreters. 

"  In  order  to  press  every  resource  into  the  service  of 
this  noble  enterprise,  the  vessels  should  be  extensively 
furnished  with  means  for  blasting  and  splitting  the  ice, 
perhaps  circular  saws  might  be  adapted  to  the  steamers, 
a  launch  to  each  party,  with  a  small  rotary  engine, 
sledr^es  for  the  shore,  and  light  boats  with  sledge  bear- 
ings ibr  broken  ice-fields,  balloons  for  the  distribution 
of  advertisements,  and  kites  for  the  explosion  of  lofly 
fire-balls.  And,  lastly,  they  should  have  vigorous  and 
numerous  crews,  so  that  when  detachments  are  away, 


IK 


r 


II  ! 


i      1-ti] 
( 

!  I  li 


r 


mi 


■(;' 


256 


PliOOKESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


other  operations  should  not  be  intermitted  for  want  of 
physical  strength. 

"  As  the  council  of  the  Eoj^al  Society,  some  time  ago, 
thought  proper  to  remind  their  lordships  of  the  propriety 
of  instituting  this  search,  it  would  be  fair  now  to  calh/u 
that  learned  body  for  all  the  advice  and  suggestioiiM, 
that  science  and  philosophy  can  contribute  toward  tiie 
accomplishment  of  the  great  object  on  which  the  eyes 
of  all  England  and  indeed  of  all  the  world,  are  now 
entirely  iixed." 

Captain  Beechey,  writing  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Ad- 
miralty, 7th  of  February,  1850,  says  : — 

"  The  urgent  nature  of  the  case  alone  can  justify  tho 
use  of  ordinary  steamers  in  an  icy  sea,  and  great  pru- 
dence and  judgment  will  be  required  on  the  part  of 
their  commanders,  to  avoid  being  disabled  by  collision 
and  pressure.  • 

"  1  would  also  add,  as  an  exception,  that  I  think  Leo- 
pold Island  and  Cape  Walker,  if  possible,  should  both 
be  examined,  prior  to  any  attempt  being  made  to  pene- 
trate in  other  directions  from  Barrow's  Strait,  and  that 
the  bottom  of  Regent  Inlet,  about  the  Pelly  Islands, 
should  not  be  left  unexamined.  In  the  memorandum 
submitted  to  their  lordships  on  the  17th  of  January, 
1849,  this  quarter  was  considered  of  importance ;  and 
I  am  still  ot  opinion,  that,  had  Sir  John  Franklin  aban- 
doned his  vessels  near  the  coast  of  America,  and  much 
short  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  he  would  have  preferred 
the  probability  of  retaining  the  use  of  his  boats  until 
he  found  relief  in  Barrow's  Strait,  to  risking  an  over- 
land journey  via  the  before-mentioned  river ;  it  must 
be  remembered,  that  at  the  time  he  sailed,  Sir  George 
Back's  discovery  had  rendered  it  very  probable  that 
Boothia  was  an  island. 

"  An  objection  to  the  necessity  of  this  search  seems 
to  be,  that  had  Sir  John  Franklin  taken  that  route,  he 
would  have  reached  Fury  Beach  already.  However,  I 
cannot  but  think  there  will  yet  be  found  some  good 
grounds  for  the  Esquimaux  sketch,  and  that  their  mean- 
ing has  been  misunderstood  ;  and  as  Mr.  M'Cormick  is 


■  '•**»ir 


OriNIONS   OF   ARCTIC    *0 VARIOUS. 


257 


betbr 


ijtorprising  perfion,  wlioso  name  has  already  been 
•e  their  lorclships,  I  would  siibinit,  whether  a  boat 
expedition  from  Leopold  Depot,  under  his  direction, 
would  not  satistUctorily  set  at  rest  all  inquiry  upon  this, 
now  the  onl^^  quarter  unpi'ovided  for." 

Captain  Sir  VV".  E.  Parry  states  : — 

"1  am  decidedly  of  opinion  that  the  main  search 
should  be  renewed  in  the  direction  of  Melville  Island 
and  Banks'  Land,  including  as  a  part  of  the  plan  the 
thorough  examination  of  w  ellington  Strait  and  of  the 
other  similar  openings  between  the  islands  of  the  group 
bearing  my  name.  1  entertain  a  growing  conviction  of 
the  probability  of  the  missing  ships,  or  at  least  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  crews,  being  shut  up  at  Mel 
ville  Island,  Banks'  Land,  or  in  that  neighborhood, 
agreeing  as  I  do  with  Rear  Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beau- 
fort, in  his  report  read  yesterday  to  the  Board  that '  Sir 
John  Franklin  is  not  a  man  to  treat  his  orders  with 
I  'Hty,'  which  he  would  be  justly  chargeable  with  doing 
if  he  attached  greater  weight  to  any  notions  he  might 
personally  entertain  than  to  the  Admiralty  instructions, 
which  he  well  knew  to  be  founded  on  the  experience  of 
former  attempts,  and  on  the  best  information  which 
could  then  be  obtained  on  the  subject.  For  these  rea- 
sons I  can  scarcely  doubt  that  he  would  employ  at  least 
two  seasons,  those  of  1845  and  1846,  in  an  unremitting 
attempt  to  penetrate  directly  westward  or  southwestward 
to  Behring^s  Strait. 

"  Supposing  this  conjecture  to  be  correct,  nothing  can 
be  more  likely  than  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  ships,  hav- 
ing penetrated  in  seasons  of  ordinary  temperature  a 
considerable  distance  in  that  direction,  nave  been  locked 
up  by  successive  seasons  of  extraordinary  rigor,  thus 
baffling  the  efforts  of  their  weakened  crews  to  escape 
from  the  ice  in  either  of  the  two  directions  by  Behring's 
or  Barrow's  Straits. 

"And  here  I  cannot  but  add,  that  my  own  conviction 
of  this  probability — for  it  is  only  with  probabilities 
that  we  have  to  deal  —  has  been  greatly  strengthened 
by  a  letter  I  have  lately  received  from  Col.  Sabine,  of 

17 


1 


\ 


I*" 

I* 

;>■ 

II 


l^( 


i: 


I    '! 


Mil 


258 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCmc    DISCOVERY. 


I 


the  Royal  Artillery,  of  which  I  had  tlie  honor  to  Riib- 
mit  a  coj^y  to  Sir  Francis  Baring.  Colonel  Sabine 
having  accompanied  two  successive  expeditions  to  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  including  that  under  mv  command  which 
reached  Melville  Island,  I  consider  his  views  to  be  woll 
worthy  of  their  lordships'  attention  on  this  part  of  the 
subject. 

"It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  considerable 
weight  is  due  to  the  conjecture  which  has  been  oflercd 
by  persons  capable  of  fonning  a  sound  judgment,  that 
havmg  failed,  as  I  did,  in  the  attempt  to  penetrate  west- 
ward, Sir  John  Franklin  might  deem  it  prudent  to  re- 
trace his  steps,  and  was  enabled  to  do  so,  in  order  to  try 
a  more  northern  route,  either  through  Wellington  Strait 
or  some  other  of  those  openings  between  the  Parry 
Islands  to  which  I  have  already  referred.  And  this  idea 
receives  no  small  importance  from  the  fact,  (said  to  be 
beyond  a  doubt,)  of  Sir  John  Franklin  having,  before 
his  departure,  expressed  such  an  intention  in  case  of 
failing  to  the  westward. 

"  I  cannot,  therefore,  consider  the  intended  search  to 
be  complete  without  making  the  examination  of  "Wel- 
lington Strait  and  its  adjacent  openings  a  distinct  part 
of  the  plan,  to  be  performed  by  one  portion  of  the 
vessels  which  I  shall  presently  propose  for  the  main 
expedition. 

"  Much  stress  has  likewise  been  laid,  and  I  think  not 
altogether  without  reason,  on  the  propriety  of  search- 
ing Jones'  and  Smith's  Sounds  in  the  northwest  parts  of 
Baffin's  Bay.  Considerable  interest  has  lately  been  at- 
tached to  Jt)nes'  Sound,  from  the  fact  of  its  having  been 
recently  navigated  by  at  least  one  enterprising  whaler, 
and  found  to  be  of  great  width,  free  from  ice,  with  a 
swell  from  the  westward,  and  having  no  land  visible  from 
the  mast-head  in  that  direction.  It  seems  more  than 
probable,  therefore,  that  it  may  be  found  to  communi- 
cate with  Wellington  Strait ;  so  that  if  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's ships  have  been  detained  anywhere  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Parry  Islands,  it  would  be  by  Jones'  Sound 
that  he  would  probably  endeavor  to  eftect  his  escape, 


-Vj* 


OPINIONS    AND  SL'OGi:ftTlONl». 


259 


rnther  than  by  the  lesa  direct  route  of  Barrow's  Strait. 
1  do  not  mvself  attucli  niucli  importance  to  the  idea  of 
Sir  John  Iranklin  having  ho  far  retraced  his  steps  as 
to  come  back  through  Lancaster  Sound,  and  recom- 
mence liis  enterprise  by  entering  Jones'  Sound  ;  but 
the  possibility  of  liis  attempting  his  escape  through 
this  fine  opening,  and  the  report,  (though  somewhat 
vague,)  of  a  cairn  of  stones  seen  by  one  of  the  whalers 
on  a  headland  within  it,  seems  to  me  to  render  it  highly 
expedient  to  set  this  question  at  rest  by  a  search  in 
this  direction,  including  the  examination  of  Smith's 
Sound  also." 

I  beg  to  cite  next  an  extract  from  the  letter  of  Dr.  Sir 
John  llichardson  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty  : — 

^'•Haslar  Hospital^  Gosport^  7th  of  February  ^  1850. 

"  With  respect  to  the  direction  in  which  a  successful 
search  may  oe  predicated  with  the  most  confidence, 
very  various  opinions  have  been  put  forth ;  some  have 
supposed  either  that  the  ships  were  lost  before  reaching 
Lancaster  Sound,  or  that  Sir  John  Franklin,  finding  an 
impassable  barrier  of  ice  in  the  entrance  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  may  have  sought  for  a  passage  through  Jones' 
Sound.  I  do  not  feel  inclined  to  give  much  weight  to 
either  conjecture.  "When  we  consider  the  strength  of 
the  Erobus  and  Terror,  calculated  to  resist  the  strongest 
pressuie  to  which  ships  navigating  Baflin'a  Bav  have 
been  known  to  be  subject,  in  conjunction  with  the  fact 
that,  of  the  many  whalers  which  have  been  crushed  or 
abandoned  since  the  commencement  of  the  fishery,  the 
crews,  or  at  least  the  greater  part  of  them,  have,  in 
almost  every  »^ase,  succeeded  in  reaching  other  ships,  or 
the  Danish  settlements,  we  cannot  believe  that  the  two 
discovery  ships,  which  were  seen  on  the  edge  of  the 
middle  ice  so  early  as  the  26th  of  July,  can  have  been 
so  suddenly  and  totally  overwhelmed  as  to  preclude 
some  one  of  the  intelligent  ofiicers,  whose  minds  were 
prepared  for  every  emergenc}^  with  their  select  crews 
of  men,  experienced  in  the  ice,  from  placing  a  boat  on 
the  ice  or  water,  and  thus  carrying  intelligence  of  the 


••< 


^■^;;  ^ 


: 


; 


Ri   J 


260 


PEOGBE38   OP   AEOTIC  DISCOVERY. 


disaster  to  one  of  the  many  whalers  which  remained  for 
two  months  after  that  date  in  those  seas,  and  this  in  the 
absence  of  p^y  unusual  catastrophe  among  the  fishing 
vessels  that  season. 

"  With  respefjt  to  Jones'  Sound,  it  is  admitted  by  all 
who  are  intimatelj'  acquainted  with  Sir  John  Franklin, 
that  his  first  endeavor  would  be  to  act  up  to  the  letter 
of  his  instructions,  and  that  therefore  he  would  not 
lightly  abandon  the  attempt  to  pass  Lancaster  Sound. 
From  the  logs  of  the  whalers  year  after  year,  we  learn 
that  when  once  they  have  succeeded  in  rounding  the 
middle  ice,  they  enter  Lancaster  Sound  with  facility  : 
had  Sir  John  Franklin,  then,  gained  that  Sound,  and 
from  the  premises  we  appear  to  be  fully  justified  in 
concluding  that  he  did  so,  and  had  he  afterward  en- 
countered a  compact  field  of  ice,  barring  Barrow's 
Strait  and  Wellington  Sound,  he  would  then,  after  be- 
ing convinced  that  he  v/ould  lose  the  season  in  attempt 
ing  to  bore  through  it,  have  borne  up  for  Jones'  Sound, 
but  not  until  he  had  erected  a  conspicuous  landmark, 
and  lodged  a  memorandum  of  his  reason  for  deviating 
from  his  instructions. 

''The  absence  of  such  a  signal-post  in  Lancaster 
Sound  is  an  argument  against  the  expedition  having 
turned  back  from  thence,  and  is,  on  the  other  hand,  a 
strong  support  to  the  suspicion  that  Barrow's  Strait  was 
as  open  in  1845  as  when  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  first  passed 
it  in  1819  ;  that,  such  being  the  case.  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, without  delay  and  witliout  landing,  pushed  on  to 
Cape  Walker,  and  that,  subsequently,  in  endeavoring 
to  penetrate  to  the  southwest,  he  became  involved  in 
the  drift  ice,  which,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  urged 
by  the  prevailing  winds  and  tho  set  of  the  flood  tides, 
is  carried  toward  Coronation  Gulf,  through  channels 
more  or  less  intricate.  Should  he  have  found  no  open- 
ing at  Cape  Walker,  he  would,  of  course,  have  sou^lit 
one  fui-ther  to  the  west  ;  or,  finding  the  southerly  and 
westerly  opening  blocked  by  ice,  he  might  ^.ave  tried  a 
northern  passage. 

*'  In  either  case,  the  plan  of  search  propounded  by 


■^^jj^ 


OPINIONS   AND  6UGGESTION8. 


261 


Sir  Francis  Beaiifoi't  seems  to  provide  against  every 
contingency,  especially  when  taken  in  conjunction  with 
Captain  Collinson's  expedition,  via  Behring's  Strai-'", 
and  the  boat  parties  from  the  Mackenzie. 

"  1  do  not  venture  to  offer  an  opinion  on  the  strength 
or  equipment  of  the  vessels  to  be  employed,  or  other 
merely  nautical  questions,  further  than  by  remarking, 
that  the  use  of  the  small  vessels,  which  forms  part  of 
Sir  Francis  Beaufort's  scheme,  is  supported  by  the  suc- 
cess of  the  early  navigators  with  their  very  small  craft, 
and  the  late  gallant  exploit  of  Mr.  Shedden,  in  round- 
ing Icy  Cape  and  Point  Barrow,  in  the  Nancy  Dawson 
yacht. 

"And  further,  with  respect  to  the  comparative  merits 
of  the  paddles  and  screw  in  the  arctic  seas,  I  beg  leave 
merely  to  observe,  that  as  long  as  the  screw  is  immersed 
in  water  it  will  continue  to  act,  irrespective  of  the  tem 
perature  of  the  air  ;  but  when,  as  occurs  late  in  the 
autumn,  the  atmosphere  is  suddenly  cooled  below  the 
freezing  point  of  sea  water,  by  a  northerly  gale,  while 
tlie  sea  itself  remains  warmer,  the  paddles  will  be 
speedily  clogged  by  ice  accumulating  on  the  floats  as 
they  rise  through  the  air  in  every  revolution.  An  in- 
cident recorded  by  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  furnishes  a  strik- 
ing illustration  of  the  powerful  action  of  a  cold  wind  ; 
I  allude  to  a  fish  having  been  thrown  up  by  the  spray 
.against  the  bows  of  the  Terror,  and  firmly  frozen  there, 
during  a  gale  in  a  high  southerly  latitude.  Moreover, 
even  with  the  aid  of  a  ready  contrivance  for  topping 
the  paddles,  the  flatness  or  hollowness  of  the  sides  of  a 
paddle  steamer  renders  her  less  fit  for  sustaining  pres- 
sure ;  the  machinery  is  more  in  the  way  of  oblique 
beams  for  strengthening,  and  she  is  less  efiicient  as  a 
sailino:  vessel  when  the  steam  is  let  off." 

Memorandum  inclosed  in  Dr.  WCormicJc's  Letter 
of  the  1st  of  January^  1850. 

"  In  the  month  of  April  last,  I  laid  before  my  Lords 
Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  a  plan  of  search  for 
the  missing  expedition  under  the  command  of  Captain 


(•:i» 


f 


Hi 


1: 
If 

ll 


262. 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Sir  John  Franklin,  by  means  of  a  boat  expedition  up 
Jones'  and  Smith's  Sounds,  volunteering  myself  to 
conduct  it. 

"  In  that  plan  I  stated  the  reasons  which  had  induced 
me  to  direct  my  attention  more  especially  to  the  open- 
ings at  the  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,  which,  at  the  time, 
were  not  included  within  the  general  scheme  of  search. 

"Wellington  Channel,  however,  of  all  the  probable 
openings  into  the  Polar  Sea,  possesses  the  highest  de- 
gree of  interest,  and  the  exploration  of  it  is  of  sucli 
paramount  importance,  that  I  should  most  unquestion- 
ably have  comprised  it  within  my  plan  of  search,  had 
not  Her  Majesty's  ships  Enterprise  and  Investigator 
been  employed  at  the  time  in  Barrow's  Strait  for  tlio 
express  purpose  of  examining  this  inlet  and  Ca})o 
Walker,  two  of  the  most  essential  points  of  search  in 
the  whole  track  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror  to  tlie  west- 
ward ;  being  those  points  at  the  very  threshold  of  liis 
enterprise,  from  which  Sir  John  Franklin  would  take 
his  departure  from  the  known  to  the  unknown,  whether 
he  shaped  a  southwesterly  course  from  the  latter,  or 
attempted  the  passasje  in  a  higher  latitude  from  the 
former  point. 

"  The  return  of  the  sea  expedition  from  Port  Leo- 
pold, and  the  overland  one  from  the  Mackenzie  River, 
both  alike  imsuocessful  in  their  search,  leaves  the  ftite 
of  the  gallant  Franklin  and  his  companions  as  proble- 
matical as  ever ;  in  fact,  the  case  stands  precisely  as  it 
did  two  years  ago ;  the  work  is  yet  to  be  begun ;  every 
thing  remains  to  be  accomplished. 

"  In  renewal  of  the  search  in  the  ensuing  spring, 
more  would  be  accomplished  in  boats  than  in  any  otlier 
way,  not  only  by  Beh ring's  Strait,  but  from  the  east- 
ward. For  the  difficulties  attendant  on  icy  navigation 
which  form  so  insuperable  a  barrier  to  the  progress  of 
ships,  would  be  readily  surmounted  by  boats ;  by  meane 
of  which  the  coast  line  may  be  closely  examined  for 
cairns  of  stones,  under  which  Sir  John  Franklin  would 
most  indubitably  deposit  memorials  of  his  progress 
^n  all  prominent  positions,  as  opportunities  might  offer. 


*ii 


i-'h-r 


OPINIOXB  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


263 


"  The  discovery  of  one  of  these  mementos  would,  in 
ft.  A  prob:»biiity,  anord  a  clue  that  might  lead  to  the  res- 
cue of  our  enterprising  countrymen,  ere  another  and 
sixth  winter  close  in  upon  them,  should  they  be  still 
in  existence ;  and  the  time  has  not  yet  arrived  for  aban- 
doning hope. 

"In  renewing  once  more  the  offer  of  my  services, 
which  I  do  most  cheerfully,  I  see  no  reason  for  chan«^- 
ing  the  opinions  I  entertained  last  spring ;  subsequent 
events  have  only  tended  to  confirm  them.  I  then  be- 
lieved, and  I  do  so  still,  after  a  long  and  mature  con- 
sideration of  the  subject,  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  ships 
have  been  arrested  in  a  high  latitude,  and  beset  in  the 
heavy  polar  ice  northward  of  the  Parry  Islands,  and 
that  their  probable  course  thither  has  been  through  the 
Wellington  Channel,  or  one  of  the  sounds  at  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

"  This  appears  to  me  to  be  the  only  view  of  the  case 
that  can  in  any  way  account  for  the  entire  absence  of 
all  tidings  of  them  throughout  so  protracted  a  period 
of  time  (unless  all  have  perished  by  some  sudden  and 
overwhelming  catastrophe.) 

"Isolated  as  their  position  would  be  under  such  cir- 
cumstances, any  attempt  to  reach  the  continent  of 
America  at  such  a  distance  would  be  hopeless  in  the 
extreme:  and  the  mere  chance  of  any  party  from  the 
ships  reaching  the  top  of  Baffin's  Bay  at  tlie  very  mo- 
ment of  a  whaler's  brief  and  uncertain  visit  would  be 
attended  with  by  far  too  great  a  risk  to  justify  the  at- 
tempt, for  failure  would  insure  inevitable  destruction 
to  the  whole  party ;  therefore  their  only  alternative 
would  be  to  keep  together  in  their  ships,  should  no  dis- 
aster have  happened  to  them,  and  by  husbanding  their 
remaining  resources,  eke  them  out  with  whatever  wild 
animals  may  come  within  their  reach. 

"  Had  Sir  John  Franklin  been  able  to  shape  a  south- 
westerly course  from  Cape  Walker,  as  directed  by  his 
instructions,  the  probability  is,  some  intelligence  of 
him  would  have  reached  this  country  ere  this,  (nearly 
five  years  having  already  elapsed  since  his  departure 

12 


(I'm 
t  '. 


V:   I 


u 


•t; 


264 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


from  it.)  Parties  would  have  been  sent  out  from  his 
ships,  either  in  the  direction  of  the  coast  of  America 
or  Barrow's  Strait,  whichever  happeued  to  be  the  most 
accessible.  Esquimaux  would  nave  been  fallen  in 
with,  and  tidings  of  the  long-absent  expedition  have 
been  obtained. 

"  Failing  in  penetrating  beyond  Cape  Walker,  Sir 
John  Franklin  would  have  left  some  notice  of  his  fu- 
ture  intentions  on  that  spot,  or  the  nearest  accessible 
one  to  it ;  and  should  he  then  retrace  his  course  for  tlie 
Wellington  Channel,  the  most  probable  conjecture,  he 
would  not  pass  up  that  inlet  without  depositing  a  fur- 
ther account  of  his  proceedings,  either  on  the  western 
or  eastern  point  of  the  entrance  to  it. 

"Therefore,  should  my  proposal  meet  with  their 
Lordships'  approbation,  I  would  most  respectfully  sub- 
mit, that  the  party  I  have  volunteered  to  conduct 
should  be  landed  at  the  entrance  to  the  Wellington 
Channel,  or  the  nearest  point  attainable  by  any  ship 
that  their  Lordships  may  deem  fit  to  employ  in  a  fu- 
ture search,  consistently  with  any  other  services  that 
ship  may  have  to  perform ;  and  should  a  landing  be 
effected  on  the  eastern  side,  I  would  propose  commenc- 
ing the  search  from  Cape  Riley  or  Beech ey  Island  in 
a  northerly  direction,  carefully  examining  every  re- 
markable headland  and  indentation  of  the  western 
coast  of  TS^orth  Devon  for  memorials  of  the  missing  ex- 
pedition ;  I  would  then  cross  over  the  Wellington 
Channel  and  continue  the  search  along  the  northern 
shore  of  Cornwallis  Island,  extending  the  exploration 
to  the  westward  as  far  as  the  remaining  portion  of  the 
season  would  permit,  so  as  to  secure  the  retreat  of  the 
party  before  the  winter  set  in,  returning  either  by  the 
eastern  or  western  side  of  Cornwallis  Island,  as  cir- 
cumstances might  indicate  to  be  the  most  desirable  at 
the  time,  after  ascertaining  the  general  extent  and 
trending  of  the  shores  of  that  island. 

"As,  however,  it  would  be  highly  desirable  that 
Jones'  Sound  should  not  be  omitted  in  the  search,  more 
esj^ecially  as  a  whaler,  last  season,  reached  its  entrance 


OPINIONS    AJJD  SUGGESTIOKB. 


265 


and  reported  it  open,  I  would  furlner  fffopose,  that  the 
ship  conveying  the  exploring  party  out  should  look  into 
this  opening  on  her  way  to  Lancaster  Sound,  if  circum- 
stances permitted  of  her  doing  so  early  in  the  season  ; 
and,  if  tound  to  be  free  from  ice,  the  attempt  might  be 
made  by  the  boat  expedition  to  push  through  it  to  the 
westward  in  this  latitude  ;  and  should  it  prove  to  be 
an  opening  into  the  Polai  Sea,  of  which  I  think  there 
can  be  little  doubt,  a  great  saving  of  time  and  distance 
would  be  accomplishecl.  Failing  m  this,  the  ship  should 
be  secured  in  some  central  position  in  the  vicmity  of 
the  Wellington  Channel,  as  ^ point  d^appui  to  fall  back 
upon  in  the  search  from  that  quarter. 

(Signed,)  R.  M'Cokmick,  R.  N. 

"  Twickenham^  lat  of  January^  1850." 


Outline  of  a  Plan  of  an  Overland  Journey  to  the 
Polar  Sea,  hy  the  Way  of  the  Coppermine  liiver, 
in  Search  of  Sir  John  I^ankUn*8  jExpedition,  sug- 
gested in  1847. 

"  If  Sir  JohTj  Franklin,  guided  by  his  instructions, 
has  passed  through  Barrow's  Strait,  and  shaped  a  south- 
westerly course,  from  the  meridian  of  Cape  "^^dker, 
with  the  intention  of  gaining  the  northern  coast  of  the 
continent  of  America,  and  so  passing  through  the  Dol- 
phin and  Union  Strait,  along  the  shore  of  that  conti- 
nent, to  Behring's  Strait; 

"  His  greatest  risk  of  detention  by  the  ice  through- 
out this  course  would  be  found  between  the  parallels  of 
74°  and  69°  north  latitude,  and  the  meridians  of  100° 
and  110°  west  longitude,  or,  in  other  words,  that  por- 
tion of  the  northwest  passage  which  yet  remains  unex- 
plored, occupying  the  space  between  the  western  coast 
of  Boothia  or.  the  one  side,  and  the  island  or  islands 
forming  Banks'  and  Victoria  Lands  on  the  other. 

"  Should  the  Erebus  and  Terror  have  been  beset  in 
the  heavy  dritVice,  or  wrecked  among  it  and  the  bro- 
ken land,  which  in  all  probability  exists  there  while 
contending  with  the  prevalent  westerly  winds  in  this 
quarter  ; 


(    \ 


ir 


N     t' 


ii 


266 


PEOGRESS    OF   ARCTIO   DISCOVERT. 


"  The  Coppermine  River  would  decidedly  oifer  the 
most  direct  route  and  nearest  approach  to  that  portion 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  and,  after  crossing  Coronation  Gulf, 
the  average  breadth  of  the  Strait  betv;een  the  Conti 
nent  and  Victoria  Land  is  only  about  twenty-two  miles. 

*'  From  this  point  a  careful  search  should  be  com- 
menced :in  the  airection  of  Banks'  Land  ;  the  interven- 
ing space  between  it  and  Victoria  Land,  occupying 
about  five  degrees,  or  little  more  than  300  miles,  could, 
I  think,  be  accomplished  in  one  season,  and  a  retreat  to 
winter  c^uarters  effected  before  the  winter  set  in.  As 
the  ice  m  the  Coppermine  River  breaks  up  in  June, 
the  searching  party  ought  to  reach  the  sea  by  the  be- 
ginning of  August,  which  would  leave  two  of  the  best 
months  of  the  year  for  exploring  the  Polar  Sea,  viz . 
August  and  September. 

"  As  it  would  be  highly  desirable  that  every  available 
day,  to  the  latest  period  of  the  season,  should  be  de- 
voted to  the  search,  I  should  propose  wintering  on  the 
coast  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
River,  which  would  also  afford  a  favorable  position 
from  which  to  recommence  the  search  in  the  following 
spring,  should  the  first  season  prove  unsuccessful. 

"  Of  course  the  object  of  such  an  expedition  as  I  have 
proposed  is  not  with  the  view  of  taking  supplies  to  such 
a  numerous  party  as  Sir  John  Franklin  has  under  his 
command  ;  but  to  find  out  his  position,  and  acquaint 
him  where  a  depot  of  provisions  would  be  stored  up 
for  himself  and  crews  at  my  proposed  winter  quarters, 
where  a  party  should  be  ieft  to  build  a  house,  establish 
a  fishery,  and  hunt  for  game,  during  the  absence  of  the 
searching  party. 

"  To  carrv  out  this  plan  efficiently,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  should  be  requested  to  lend  their  powerful 
cooperation  in  furnishin^^  guides,  supplies  of  pemmican, 
&c.,  for  the  party  on  their  route  and  at  winter  quarters. 
Without  entering  into  details  here,  I  may  observe,  that 
I  should  consider  one  boat,  combining  the  necessary 
requisites  in  her  construction  to  fit  her  for  either  the 
river  navigation,  or  that  of  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea, 


'^'(Tri 


the 

tion 

iult; 

onti 

liles. 

cum- 

fveu- 

ould, 
eat  to 
As 
June, 
le  be- 
e  best 
,  viz  ; 

lilable 
be  de- 
on  the 

irmhio 

psition 

owin^ 

I  have 
,0  such 
ler  his 
quaint 
•ed  up 
arters, 
ablish 
of  the 

I's  Bay 
Iwerful 

lican, 
[arters. 
e,  that 
lessary 
ler  the 

ir  Sea, 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


267 


would  be  quite  sufficient,  with  a  crew  one  half  sailors, 
and  the  other  half  Canadian  boatmen  ;  the  latter  to  be 
engaged  at  Montreal,  for  which  place  1  would  propose 
leaving  England  in  the  month  of  February. 

"  Should  such  an  expedition  even  fail  in  its  main  ob- 
ject —  tlie  discovery  of  the  position  of  the  missing  ships 
a?d  their  crews,  the  long-sought-for  polar  passage  may 
be  accomplished. 

(Signed,)  R.  J^'Cormick,  E.  N. 

«  Woolwich,  1847." 


Coj>i/  of  a  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Sherard  0  shorn  to 
the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty. 

"  Ealing,  Middlesex,  4:th  January,  1850. 

"  My  Lokds, —  A  second  attempt  to  reach  Sir  John 
Franklin's  expedition  being  about  to  be  tried  during 
the  present  year,  I  take  the  liberty  of  calling  your  at- 
tention to  the  inclosed  proposition  for  an  overland  party 
to  be  dispatched  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  with  a 
view  to  their  traversing  the  short  distance  between  Cape 
Bathurst  and  Banks'  Land.  My  reasons  for  thus  tres- 
passing on  your  attention  are  as  follows  ; 

"  1st.  General  opinion  places  the  lost  expedition  to 
the  west  of  Cape  Walker,  and  south  of  the  latitude  of 
Melville  Island. 

"  The  distance  from  Cape  Bathurst  to  Banks'  Land 
is  only  301  miles,  and  on  reference  to  a  chart  it  will  be 
seen  that  nowhere  else  does  the  American  continent 
approach  so  near  to  the  supposed  position  of  Franklin's 
expedition. 

"  2d.  As  a  starting  point,  Cape  Bathnrst  offers  great 
advantages  ;  the  arrival  of  a  party  sent  there  from 
England  may  be  calculated  upon  to  a  day ;  whereas 
the  arrival  of  Captain  Collinson  in  the  longitude  of 
Cape  Barrow,  or  tnat  of  an  eastern  expedition  in  Lan- 
caster Sound,  will  depend  upon  many  uncontrollable 
contingencies.  Ihe  distance  to  be  performed  is  com- 
paratively little,  and  the  certainty  of  being  able  to  fall 
back  upon  supplies  offers  great  advantages.    Captain' 

17 


It'" 


;  !»;1 


m 


.rt(l 

4 


268 


FBOaSEBS  OF  ABOTIO   DISOOYEBT. 


4 


I 


CoUinson  will  have  680  miles  of  longitude  to  traverMi 
between  Cape  Barrow  and  Banks'  Land.  An  Eastern 
Expedition,  if  opposed  by  the  ice,  (as  Sir  James  Ross 
has  been,)  and  unable  to  proceed  in  their  vessels  farther 
than  Leopold  Harbor,  will  have  to  journey  on  foot  330 
miles  to  reach  the  longitude  of  Banks'  Land,  and  if 
any  accident  occur  to  tLeir  vessels,  they  will  be  in  as 
critical  a  position  as  those  they  go  to  seek. 

"  3d.  Banks'  Land  bears  from  Cape  Bathurst  N.  4P 
49'  E.  302  miles,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in 
the  summer  season  a  portion  of  this  distance  may  be 
traversed  in  boats. 

"  4th  and  5th.  Dr.  Richardson  confirms  previous  re- 
ports of  the  ice  being  "ight  ♦  a  he  coast  east  of  llu: 
Mackefizie  Riv.r  to  C;.u«  iJatl  urst,  &iid  iuiorms  us 
that  the  Esquimaux  had  scea  no  ice  to  seaward  for  two 
moons. 

"  6th.  Every  mile  traversed  northward  by  a  party 
fi'om  Cape  Bathurst  would  be  over  that  unknown  space 
in  which  traces  of  Franklin  may  be  expected. 

"  7th.  It  is  advisable  that  such  a  second  party  be 
dispatched  from  Cape  Bathurst,  in  order  that  the  pros- 
ecution of  Dr.  Rae's  examination  of  the  supposed  chan- 
nel between  Wollaston  and  Victoria  Lands  may  in  no 
way  be  interfered  with  by  his  attention  being  called  to 
the  westward. 

"8th.  The  caches  of  provisions  m^de  at  different 
points  of  the  Mackenzie  and  at  Cape  Bathurst,  would 
enable  a  party  to  push  down  to  their  starting  point  with 
great  celerity  directly  the  River  Mackenzie  opens, 
which  may  be  as  early  as  May. 

"  I  would  also  remind  your  Lordships  that  the  pro- 
posed expedition  would  carry  into  execution  a  very  im- 
Sortant  clause  in  the  instructions  given  to  Sir  James 
^oss  ;  viz  :  that  of  sending  exploring  parties  from 
Banks'  Land  in  a  southwesterly  direction  toward  Cape 
Bathurst  or  Cape  Parry. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  beg  to  offer  my  willing  services  to- 
TTCvd  the  execution  of  the  proposed  plan  ;  and  seeking 
it  from  no  t>vl5«h  motives,  but  thoroughly  impressed 


OPINIONS   AND   aUOGESTIONS. 


^69 


with  its  feasibility,  yon  may  rest  assured,  my  lords, 
should  I  have  the  honor  of  being  sent  upon  this  service, 
that  I  shall  not  disappoint  your  expectations. 
"I  have,  &c., 
(Signed,)  "  Sherard  Osborn,  Lieut.,  R.  N." 


Cojpy  of  (/  Letter  from  Colonel  Sabine^  R.  J..,  to  Cap- 
tain Sir  W.  Edward  Parry. 

"  Castle-down  Terrace^  Hastings^ 
"  Ibth  of  Janua/ry^  1850. 

"Then  oan  be  little  doubt,  I  imagine,  in  the  miud  of 
ay  one  who  has  re..d  attentively  Franklin's  instruc- 
tions, and,  (in  reference  to  them,)  your  description  of 
the  state  of  the  ice  and  of  the  navigable  water  in  1819 
and  1820,  in  the  route  which  he  was  ordered  to  pursue; 
still  less,  I  think,  can  there  be  a  doubt  in  the  mind  of 
any  one  who  had  the  advantage  of  being  with  you  in 
those  years,  that  Franklin,  (always  supposing  no  pre- 
vious disaster,)  must  have  made  his  way  to  the  south- 
west part  of  Melville  Island  either  in  1845  or  1846.  It 
has  been  said  that  1845  was  an  unfavorable  season,  and 
as  the  navigation  of  Davis'  Strait  and  Baffin's  Bay  was 
new  to  Franklin,  we  may  regard  it  as  more  probable 
that  it  may  have  taken  him  two  seasons  to  accomplish  . 
what  we  accomplished  in  one.  So  far,  I  think,  guidod 
by  his  instructions  and  by  the  experience  gained  in 
1819  and  1820,  we  may  reckon  pretty  confidently  on 
the  first  stage  of  his  proceedings,  and  doubtless,  in  his 
progress  he  would  have  left  memorials  in  the  uncial 
manner  at  places  where  he  may  have  landed,  some  of 
which  would  be  likely  to  fall  in  the  way  of  a  vessel  fol- 
lowing in  his  track.  From  the  west  end  of  Melville 
Islana  our  inferences  as  to  his  further  proceedings  must 
become  more  conjectural,  being  contingent  on  tm  state 
of  the  ice  and  the  existence  of  navigable  water  in  the 
particular  season.  If  he  found  the  ocean,  as  we  did, 
covered  to  the  west  and  south,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  from  the  summit  of  the  highest  hills,  with  ice  of 
a  thickness  unparalleled  in  any  other  part  of  the  Polai 


!  '«■ 


,    '-'^      I 


270 


FR00RE8S  OF   ABOTIO   DlSCOViCJiT. 


Sea,  he  would,  after  probably  waiting  through  one  whole 
season  in  tlie  hope  of  some  favorable  change,  have  re- 
traced his  Hteps,  in  obedience  to  the  second  part  of  his 
instructions,  in  order  to  seek  an  opening  to  tlie  north 
which  might  conduct  to  a  more  open  sea.  In  tiiis  case 
some  memorial  of  the  season  passed  by  him  at  tlie 
southwest  end  of  Melville  Island,  and  also  of  his  pur- 
pose of  retracing  his  steps,  would  doubtless  have  been 
left  by  him  ;  and  should  he  subsequently  have  found 
an  opening  to  the  north,  presenting  a  favorable  appear- 
ance, there  also,  should  circumstances  have  permitted, 
would  a  memorial  have  been  left. 

"  lie  may,  however,  have  found  a  more  favorable 
Btate  of  things  at  the  southwest  end  of  Melville  Island 
than  we  did,  and  may  have  been  led  thereby  to  at- 
tempt to  force  a  passage  for  his  ships  in  the  direct  line 
of  Behring's  Strait,  or  perhaps,  in  tne  first  instance,  to 
the  south  of  that  direction,  namely,  to  Banks'  Land 
In  such  case  two  contingencies  present  themselves* 
first,  that  in  the  season  of  navigation  of  1847  he  may 
have  made  so  much  progress,  that  in  1848  he  may  have 
preferred  the  endeavor  to  push  through  to  Behring's 
Strait,  or  to  some  western  part  of  the  continent,  to  uii 
attempt  to  return  by  the  way  of  Barrow's  Strait ;  the 
mission  of  the  Plover,  the  ifnterprise,  and  the  Inves- 
tigator together  with  Dr.  Kae's  expedition,  supply,  1 
presume,  (for  I  am  but  partially  acquainted  with  their 
instructions,)  the  most  iudicious  means  of  affording  re- 
lief in  this  direction.  There  is,  however,  a  second  con- 
tingency ;  and  it  is  the  one  which  the  impression  left 
on  my  mind  by  the  nature  and  general  aspect  of  the 
ice  in  the  twelve  months  which  we  ourselves  passed  at 
the  southwest  end  of  Melville  Island,  compels  me,  in 
spite  of  my  wishes,  to  regard  as  the  more  probable, 
viz.,  that  his  advance  from  Melville  Island  in  the  sea- 
son of  1847  may  have  been  limited  to  a  distance  of 
fifty,  or  perhaps  one  hundred  miles  at  farthest,  and 
that  in  1848  he  may  have  endeavored  to  retrace  his 
steps,  but  only  with  partial  success.  It  is,  I  apprehend, 
quite  a  conceivable  case,  that  under  these  circumstances, 


iMK^  -'  \  >. 


OPINIONS   AND   SUOOESTIONS. 


271 


incapable  of  extricating  the  ships  from  the  ice,  the 
crewd  may  have  been,  at  length,  obliged  to  (juit  tliem, 
and  attempt  a  retreat,  not  toward  the  continent,  because 
too  distant,  but  to  Melville  Island,  where  certainly 
food,  and  probably  fuel  (seals,)  might  be  obtained,  and 
where  they  would  naturally  suppose  that  vessels  dis- 
patched from  England  for  their  relief  would,  in  the 
lirst  instance,  seek  them.  It  is  quite  conceivable  also, 
I  apprehend,  that  the  circumstances  might  be  such 
that  their  retreat  may  have  been  made  without  their 
boats,  and  probably  in  the  April  or  May  of  1849. 

"AVhere  the  Esquimaux  have  lived,  there  Englishmen 
may  live,  and  no  valid  argument  against  the  attempt 
to  relieve  can,  I  think,  be  founded  on  the  improbability 
of  finding  Englishmen  alive  in  1850,  who  may  have 
made  a  retreat  to  Melville  Island  in  the  spring  of  1849  ; 
nor  would  the  view  of  the  case  be  altered  in  any  ma- 
terial (1  'j;rco,  if  we  suppose  their  retreat  to  have  been 
made  in  1848  or  1849  to  Banks'  Land,  which  may 
afford  facilities  of  food  and  fuel  equal  or  superior  to 
Melville  Island,  and  a  further  retreat  in  the  lollowing 
year  to  the  latter  island  as  the  point  at  which  they 
would  more  probably  look  out  for  succor. 

"  Without  disparagement,  therefore,  to  the  attempts 
made  in  other  directions,  I  retain  my  original  opinion, 
which  seems  also  to  have  been  the  opinion  of  the 
Board  of  Admiralty,  by  which  Ross's  instructions  were 
drawn  up,  that  the  most  promising  direction  for  re- 
search would  be  taken  by  a  vessel  which  should  follow 
them  to  the  southwest  point  of  Melville  Island,  be  pre- 
pared to  winter  there,  and,  if  necessary,  to  send  a 
party  across  the  ice  in  April  or  May  to  examine  Banks' 
Land,  a  distance  (there  and  back)  less  than  recently 
accomplished  by  Ross  in  his  land  journey. 

"I  learn  from  Ross's  dispatches,  that  almost  imme- 
diately after  he  got  out  of  Port  Leopold  (1849,)  he  was 
entangled  in  apparently  interminable  fields  and  floes 
of  ice,  with  which,  in  the  course  of  the  summer,  he 
was  drifted  down  through  Barrow's  Strait  and  BaflSn's 
Bay  nearly  to  Davis'  Strait.    It  is  reasonable  to  pre- 


If 


\  \ 


ii  \' 


272 


PBOORK80   OP  AROTIO   DISCOVERY. 


I 

y 


sumo,  therefore,  that  the  localities  from  whence  this 
ice  drifted  are  likely  to  he  less  encumbered  than  usual 
by  accumulated  ice  in  1850.  It  is,  of  course,  of  the 
highest  importance  to  reach  Barrow's  Strait  at  the  ear- 
liest possible  period  of  the  season  ;  and,  connected  with 
this  point  I  learn  from  Captain  Bird,  whom  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  here  a  lew  days  ago,  a  very  remark- 
able fact,  that  the  ice  which  prevented  their  crossing 
Batlin's  Bay  in  72°  or  73°  of  latitude  (as  we  did  in 
1819,  arriving  in  Barrow's  Strait  a  month  earlier  tluin 
we  had  done  the  preceding  year,  when  we  went  round 
by  Melville  Bay,  and  nearly  a  month  earlier  than  Rosa 
did  last  year)  was  young  ice,  which  had  formed  in  the 
remarkably  calm  summer  of  last  year,  and  which  the 
absence  of  wind  prevented  their  forcing  a  passage 
through,  on  the  one  hand,  while  on  the  other,  the  ice 
was  not  heavy  enough  for  ice  anchors.  It  was,  he  said, 
not  more  than  two  or  two  and  a  half  feet  thick,  and  ob- 
viously of  very  recent  formation.  There  must,  there- 
fore, have  been  an  earlier  period  of  the  season  when 
this  part  of  the  sea  must  have  been  free  from  ice ;  and 
this  comes  in  confirmation  of  a  circumstance  of  which 
I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Petersen  (a  Danish  gentleman 
Bent  to  England  some  months  ago  by  the  Northern  So- 
ciety of  Antiquaries  of  Copenhagen,  to  make  extracts 
from  books  and  manuscripts  in  the  British  Museum,) 
that  the  Northmen,  who  had  settlements  some  centu- 
ries ago  on  the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  were  in  the 
habit  of  crossing  Baffin's  Bay  in  the  latitude  of  Uper- 
navic  in  the  spnng  of  the  year,  for  the  purpose  of  fish- 
ing in  Barrow's  Strait,  from  whence  they  returned  in 
August ;  and  that  in  the  early  months  they  generally 
found  the  passage  across  free  from  ice. 

"  In  the  preceding  remarks,  I  have  left  one  contin- 
gency unconsidered  ;  it  is  that  which  would  have  fol- 
lowed in  pursuance  of  his  instructions,  if  Franklin  should 
have  found  the  aspect  of  the  ice  too  unfavorable  to  the 
west  and  south  of  Melville  Island  to  attempt  to  force  a 
passage  through  it,  and  should  have  retraced  his  steps 
m  hopes  of  finding  a  more  open  sea  to  the  northward, 


OPINION'S   AND  8DOOE8TION8. 


278 


./ithcr  in  "Wollinprton  Strait  or  elsewhere.  It  Is  quite 
('unct'ivHl)le  that  here  also  tlie  expedition  may  have  en- 
eoiintered,  at  no  very  great  distance,  in8Ui)erttblo  ditti- 
culties  to  tlieir  advance,  and  may  have  tailed  in  accom- 
plishing a  return  with  their  ships.  In  this  case,  the 
retreat  of  the  crews,  supposing  it  to  liave  been  made 
across  land  or  ice,  would  most  probably  be  directed  to 
some  part  of  the  coast  on  the  route  to  Melville  Island, 
on  which  route  they  would,  without  doubt,  expect  that 
succor  would  be  attempted." 

Mr.  Robert  A.  Goodsir,  a  brother  of  Mr.  H.  D.  Good- 
sir,  the  assistant-surgeon  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  ship, 
the  Erebus,  left  Stromness,  as  surgeon  of  the  Advice, 
whaler,  Capt.  Penny,  on  the  17th  of  March,  1849,  in 
the  hopes  of  gaining  some  tidings  of  his  brother ;  but 
returned  unsuccessful  atler  an  eight  months'  voyage. 
He  has,  however,  j3ublished  a  very  interesting  little 
narrative  of  the  icy  regions  and  of  his  arctic  voyage. 

In  a  letter  to  Lady  Franklin,  dated  Edinburgh,  18th 
of  January,  1850,  he  says  : — "  I  trust  you  are  not  allow- 
ing yourself  to  become  over-anxious.  I  know  that, 
although  there  is  much  cause  to  be  so,  there  is  still  not 
the  slightest  reason  that  wo  should  despair.  It  may  be 
presumptuous  in  me  to  say  so,  but  I  have  never  tor  a 
moment  doubted  as  to  their  ultimate  safe  return,  having 
always  had  a  sort  of  presentiment  that  I  would  meet  my 
brother  and  his  companions  somewhere  in  the  regions 
in  which  their  adventures  are  taking  place.  This  nope 
I  have  not  yet  given  up,  and  I  trust  that  by  next  sum- 
mer it  may  be  fulfilled,  when  an  end  will  be  put  to  the 
suspense  which  has  lasted  so  long,  and  which  must  have 
tried  you  so  much." 

The  arctic  regions,  far  from  being  so  destitute  of  ani- 
mal life  as  might  be  supposed  from  the  bleak  and  inhos- 
pitable character  of  the  climate,  are  proverbial  for  the 
boundless  profusion  of  various  species  of  the  animal 
kingdom,  which  are  to  b  met  with  in  difierent  locali- 
ties during  a  great  part  ot  the  year. 

The  air  is  often  darkened  by  innumerable  flocks  of 
arctic  and  blue  gulls,  {Lestris  Parasiticus^  and  Larua 


; 


'i.  il 


^Jl 


4 


p 


u:j 


274 


PROGRESS   OJi'   ARCTIC    OISCOYEKY. 


glaitms^  the  ivory  gull  or  Rtiow-bird,  {Lavus  ehxirupvx  ) 
the  k.:ti\vake,  the  fulmar  or  i^etrel,  snow  ^eese,  torus, 
cooiis,  dovekies,  &c.  Trie  cetticeoiis  animals  comprise 
the  great  Greenland  whale,  {J^aloena  Tnysticetus,)  the 
sea  unicora  or  narwhal,  {Monodon  monoceros^)  the 
white  whale  or  beluga,  {Del/phinua  leucos,)  the  morse 
or  walrus,  {Trichecua  rosmarus^  and  the  seal.  There 
are  also  plenty  of  porpoises  occasionally  to  be  met  witii, 
and  although  these  animals  may  not  be  the  best  of  food, 
yet  thciy  can  be  eaten.  Of  .he  land  animals  I  may  in- 
stance the  polar  bear,  the  musk-ox,  the  reindeer,  the 
arctic  fox  and  wolves. 

Parry  obtained  nearlv  40001b8.  weight  of  animal  food 
during  his  winter  residence  at  Melville  Island ;  Ross 
nearly  the  same  quantity  from  birds  alone  when  winter- 
ing at  Port  Leopold. 

In  1719,  the  crews  of  two  Hudson's  Bay  vessels,  the 
Albany  and  Discovery,  a  ship  and  sloop,  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Barlow  and  Mr.  Knight,  were  cast  on 
shore  on  Marble  Island,  and  it  was  subseq^uently  ascer- 
tained that  some  of  the  party  supported  life  for  nearly 
three  years.  Mr.  Hearne  learned  the  particulars  from 
some  of  the  Esquimaux  in  1729.  The  ship  it  appeared 
went  on  shore  in  the  fall  of  1719 ;  the  party  being  then 
in  number  about  fifty,  began  to  build  their  house  for 
the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  ice  permitted  in  the  follow- 
ing summer  the  Esquimaux  paid  them  another  visit,  and 
found  the  number  of  sailors  much  reduced,  and  very 
unhealthy. 

Sickness  and  famine  occasioned  such  havoc  among 
them  that  by  the  setting  in  of  the  second  winter,  their 
number  was  reduced  to  twentv.  Some  of  the  Esqui- 
maux took  up  their  abode  at  this  period  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor,  and  supplied  them  with  what  provis- 
ions they  could  spare  in  the  shape  of  blubber,  seal's 
flesh,  and  train  oil. 

Tlie  Esquimaux  left  for  their  wanderings  in  the 
spring,  ana  on  revisiting  the  island  in  the  summer  of 
1721,  only  five  of  the  crews  were  found  alive,  and  these 
were  so  ravenous  for  food,  that  they  devoured  the  blub- 


"ThJ 
•'went 
looked 
vessels 
a  cons] 
they  sa 
length 
so  far  ( 
attempt 
and  oth 
above  g 
Sir  J( 
to  be  oh 
over  the 
toria  an 
the  autu 
of  vast 
skill  in 
cured  on 
August, 
are  easif 
prey  to  f 
the  stock 
and  we 
passed  a 
Repulse 
of  n  hort 
ous  ])iirtj 
year.     Si 
Sir  John 
qnato  to  j 
would  re 
one  body 
boats  cut 


ABUNDANCE   OF   ANIMAL   FOOD   MET   WITH. 


275 


ber  and  seal's  flesh  raw,  as  they  purchased  it  of  the 
native.-,  which  proved  so  injurious  in  their  weak  state, 
that  tliree  of  them  died  fn  a  few  days.  The  two  sur- 
vivors, though  very  weak,  managed  to  bury  their  com- 
rades, and  protracted   their  existence  fo^-  some  days 


longer. 


"They  frequently,"  in  the'  words  of  the  narrative, 
•'went  to  th(i  top  of  an  adjacent  rock,  and  earnestly 
looked  to  the  south  and  east,  as  if  in  expectation  of  some 
vessels  coming  to  their  relief.  After  continuing  there 
a  considerable  time,  and  nothing  appearing  in  sight, 
they  sat  down  close  together,  and  wept  bitterly.  At 
length  one  of  the  two  died,  and  the  other's  strength  was 
so  far  exhausted,  that  he  fell  down  and  died  also  in 
attempting  to  dig  a  grave  for  his  companion.  The  skulls 
and  other  large  oones  of  these  two  men  are  now  lying 
above  ground  close  to  the  house." 

Sir  John  Richardson,  speaking  of  the  amount  of  food 
to  be  obtained  in  the  polar  region,  says,  "Deer  migrate 
over  the  ice  in  the  spring  from  the  main  shore  to  Vic- 
toria and  Wollaston  Lands  in  large  herds,  and  return  in 
the  autumn.  These  lands  are  also  the  breeding  places 
of  vast  flocks  of  snow  geese ;  so  that  with  ordinary 
skill  in  hunting,  a  large  supply  of  food  might  be  pro- 
cured on  their  shores,  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  and 
August.  Seals  are  also  numerous  in  those  seas,  and 
are  easily  shot,  their  curiosity  rendering  them  a  ready 
prey  to  a  boat  party."  In  these  ways  and  by  fishing, 
the  stock  of  provisions  might  be  greatly  augmented  — 
and  we  have  the  recent  example  of  Mr.  Rae,  who 
passed  a  severe  winter  on  the  very  barren  shores  of 
Kepulse  Bay,  with  no  other  fuel  than  the  withered  tufts 
of  a  herbaceous  andromada,  and  maintained  a  numer- 
ous ]>iirty  on  the  B]x>ils  of  tlie  chase  alone  for  a  whole 
yojir.  Sucli  instances,  forbid  us  to  lose  hope.  Should 
Sir  John  Franklin's  provisions  become  so  fjir  inade- 
quate to  a  winter's  consumption,  it  is  not  like  y  tliat  he 
would  remain  longer  by  his  ships,  but  rather  that  in 
one  body,  or  in  several,  the  office  rs  and  crews,  with 
boats  cut  down  so  as  to  be  light  enough  to  drag  over 


Tir 


h 


Mi 


i|t 


!  I 


"L!  in 


^l\ 


I 


ill     ?ii 


ii'l 


276 


PROORESS   OP  ARCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


the  ice,  or  bnilt  expressly  for  that  pnrpose,  would  en- 
deavor to  make  their  way  eastward  to  Lancaster  Sound 
or  southward  to  the  main-land,  according  to  the  lonai- 
tude  in  which  the  ships  were  arrested. 

We  ought  not  to  judge  of  the  supplies  of  food  that 
can  be  procured  in  the  arctic  regions  by  diligent  hunt- 
ing, from  the  quantities  that  have  been  actually  ob- 
tained on  the  several  expeditions  that  Ijave  returnevi, 
and  consequently  of  the  means  of  preserving  life  tliere. 
When  there  was  abundance  in  the  ships,  tlie  address 
and  energy  of  the  hunting  parties  was  not  likely  to  be 
called  fortli,  as  they  would  inevitably  be  when  the  exis- 
tence of  the  crews  depended  solely  on  their  personal 
efforts,  and  formed  their  chief  or  only  object  in  their 
march  toward  quarters  where  relief  might  bo  looked 
for.  This  remark  has  reference  to  the  supposition  that 
on  the  tailure  of  the  stock  of  j^rovisions  in  the  ships, 
the  crews  would,  in  separate  parties  under  their  officers, 
seek  for  succor  in  several  directions. 

With  an  empty  stomach,  the  power  of  resisting  exter- 
nal cold  is  greatly  impaired  ;  but  when  the  process  of 
digesting  is  going  on  vigorously,  even  with  compara- 
tively scanty  clothing,  the  heat  of  the  body  is  preserved. 
There  is  in  the  winter  time,  in  high  latitudes,  a  craving 
for  fat  or  oleaginous  food,  and  for  such  occasions  the 
flesh  of  seals,  walruses,  or  bears,  forms  a  useful  article 
of  diet.  Captain  Cook  says  that  the  walrus  is  a  sweet 
and  wholesome  article  of  food.  Whales  and  seals  would 
also  furnish  light  and  fuel.  The  necessity  for  increased 
food  in  very  cold  weather,  is  not  so  great  when  the 
people  do  not  work. 

Mr.  Gilpin,  in  his  narrative  in  the  Nautical  Maga- 
zine for  March,  1850,  writes  thus  :  — 

"About  the  20th  of  June  a  small  water  bird,  culled 
the  doveky,  had  become  so  numerous,  and  so  many 
were  daily  shot  by  those  who  troubled  themselves  to  go 
after  them,  that  shooting  parties  from  each  shin,  con- 
sisting of  an  officer  and  marine,  wore  establiHiied  at 
Whaler  Point,  whore  tliey  roinained  the  whole  week, 
returning  on  board  on  Saturday  night.     In  a  week  or 


»i&%Mu(ib:&<f»--v^'*.* 


ABUNDANCE  OP  ANIMAL  FOOD  MET  WITH. 


277 


60  after  this  tlic  coon,  a  much  heavier  bird,  became 
more  plentiful  than  the  little  doveky,  and  from  thii^ 
time  to  the  middle  of  August,  so  successful  and  untir- 
ing were  our  sportsmen,  that  the  crew  received  each  a 
bird  per  man  a  day. 

"  The  account  kept  on  board  the  Investigator  showed 
the  number  of  birds  killed  to  have  amounted  to  about 
4000,  and  yielding  near  25001b8.  of  meat.  But  more 
than  this  was  obtained,  as  many  were  shot  by  individ- 
uals for  amusement,  and  not  always  noted." 

Mr.  Goodsir,  surgeon,  when  in  the  Advice  whaler,  on 
her  voyage  up  Lancaster  Sound,  in  the  summer  of  1849, 
sneaking  of  landing  on  one  of  the  Wollaston  Islands,  on 
tfie  west  side  of  Navy  Board  Inlet,  says  ho  disturbed 
about  half  a  dozen  pairs  of  the  eider-duck  {Somate7'ia 
mollissima.)  Their  eggs  he  found  to  be  within  a  few 
hours  of  maturity.  There  were,  besides,  numerous  nests, 
the  occupants  of  which  had  probably  winged  their  way 
Bouthward.  Two  brent  geese,  {Anse7'  hernida,)  and  a 
single  pair  of  arctic  terns,  {Sterna  arctica^  were  most 
vociferous  and  courageous  in  defense  of  their  downy 
offspring  wherever  he  approached.  These  were  the 
only  birds  he  saw,  with  tne  exception  of  a  solitary  ra- 
ven, {Corvus  corax,)  not  very  high  overhead,  whoso 
sharp  and  yet  musically  bell-like  croak  came  startling 
upon  the  ear. 

Mr.  Snow,  in  his  account  of  the  voyage  of  the  Prince 
Albert,  p.  162,  says,  (speaking  of  Melville  Bay,  at  the 
northern  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,)  "  Innumerable  quanti 
ties  of  birds,  espociallj  the  little  auk,  {Alca  alle)  and 
the  doveky,  {Colyrabus  grylle^  were  now  seen,  (Au- 
gust 6th,)  in  every  direction.  Xh«y  weni  to  be  ob- 
served in  thousands,  on  vhe  wing  and  in  the  water, 
and  often  on  pieces  of  ice,  where  they  wore  clustered 
together  so  ♦vhick  that  scores  might  have  Ij^en  shot  at  a 
time  by  two  or  three  fowling  pieces." 

In  passing  up  Lancaster  Sound  a  fortnight  later  sev- 
eral slioal  of  eider-ducks  and  large  quantities  of  otb«r 
birds  were  also  seen. 


I     ; 
i   i 


i  It 


1 


it;: 


\\\\ 


1    i 


978 


PBOOREPS   OF  ARCTIC   DIBCOVKRY. 


A  BALLAD  OF  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLI^ 

"  The  ice  was  liere,  tlie  ice  wan  there, 
The  ice  was  all  urouiuL"  —  Oolkhioor. 

"Whitf/er  sail  you,  Sir  John  Franklin  ? 

Cried  a  wlmler  in  Baffin's  Buy  ; 
To  know  if  between  the  land  and  the  Polo, 

I  may  find  a  broad  sea-way. 

I  charge  you  back,  Sir  John  Franklin, 

As  yoir  would  live  and  thrive, 
For  between  the  land  and  the  frozen  Fold 

Ko  man  may  sail  aliva 

But  lightly  laughed  the  stout  Sir  Jolm, 

And  spoke  unto  his  men  :  — 
Half  England  is  wrong,  if  he  is  right ; 

Bear  off  to  westward  then. 

0,  whither  sail  vou,  brave  Englishman  7 

Cried  the  little  Esquimaux. 
Between  your  land  and  the  polar  star 

My  goodly  vessels  go. 

Come  down,  if  you  would  journey  there. 

The  little  Inaian  said  ; 
And  change  your  cloth  for  fur  clothing, 

Your  vessel  for  a  sled. 

But  lightly  laughed  the  stout  Sir  John, 
And  the  crew  Liughed  with  him  too  ; 

A  sailor  to  change  from  ship  to  sled, 
I  ween,  wore  something  new  I 

All  through  the  long,  long  polar  day, 

The  vessels  westward  sped  ; 
And  wherever  the  sail  of  Sir  John  was  blown, 

The  ico  gbve  way  and  fled. 

Gave  way  with  many  a  hollow  groan, 

And  with  many  a  surly  roar ; 
But  it  murmured  and  threatened  on  every  sida^ 

And  closed  where  he  sailed  before. 

Ho  I  see  ye  not  my  merry  man, 

The  broad  and  open  sea  f 
Bethink  ye  what  the  vhiiler  said, 
Bethink  ye  of  ihi*  little  Imlian's  sled  I 
The  crew  liuiu:lied  out  in  glee. 

8i»  John,  Sir  John,  't  is  bitter  cold, 

The  8cu»i  drives  on  the  breeze, 
,The  ice  conies  looming  from  the  norths 

The  very  sunbeams  ficeze. 

Bright  summer  goes,  dark  winter  cumes— 

We  cannot  rule  the  year; 
But  long  ere  summer's  sun  goes  down, 

0  1  yorAw  set  we'll  steer. 


A  BALLA.D  OF  SIB  JOHN    fBANKLIN. 


279 


The  dripping  ico^Kirgg  dipped  and  rose. 

And  floundered  down  the  gale  ; 
The  ship  were  staid,  the  yaras  were  manned. 

And  lurled  the  useless  sail. 

The  summer  *«  gone,  the  winter 's  come, 

We  sail  not  on  yonder  sea ; 
Why  caii  we  not,  Sir  John  Franklin  t 

—  A  silent  man  was  he. 

The  winter  goes,  the  summer  comes, 

We  cannot  rde  the  year ; 
I  ween,  we  cannot  rule  the  ways, 

Sir  John,  wherein  we  'd  steer. 

The  cruel  ice  came  floating  on. 

And  closnd  heneath  the  lea. 
Till  the  tliickuning  waters  dashed  no  mora^ 
'T  was  ice  around,  behind,  before  — 

My  God  I  there  id  no  sea  I 

Wliat  think  vou  of  the  whaler  now  ! 

What  of  the  Esquimaux  ? 
A  sled  were  better  than  a  ship. 

To  cruise  through  ice  and  snow. 

Down  sank  the  baleful  crimson  sun  ; 

The  northern-light  came  out, 
And  glared  upon  the  ice-bound  ships, 

And  shook  its  spears  about 

The  snow  came  down,  storm  breeding  ttorn^ 

And  on  the  decks  was  laid  ; 
Till  the  weary  nailor,  sick  at  heart. 

Sank  down  beside  his  spade. 

Sir  John,  the  night  is  black  and  long. 

The  hissing  wind  is  bleak  ; 
The  hard,  gieen  ice  is  strong  as  death  :— • 

I  prithee,  captain,  speak. 

The  night  is  neither  bright  nor  short; 

The  singing  breeze  is  cold. 
The  ice  is  not  so  strong  ns  hope, 

The  heart  of  man  is  bold  I 

What  hope  can  scale  this  icy  wall, 

High  o'er  the  main  flag-staff? 
Above  the  ridges  the  wolf  and  bear 
Look  down  with  a  patient,  settled  stare-* 

Look  down  m  us  and  laugh. 

The  summer  went,  the  winter  came— 

We  could  not  rule  the  year  ; 
But  summer  will  melt  the  ice  again, 
And  open  a  path  to  the  ^unny  main. 

Whereon  our  ships  shall  steer. 


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PR00RES8   OF   AROllO   DI800VKEY. 

The  winter  went,  the  aummer  went, 

The  winter  came  around  ; 
But  the  hard,  green  ice  was  stronff  as  death. 
And  the  voice  of  hope  sank  to  a  breath, 

Yet  caught  at  every  sound. 

Hark  I  heard  jou  not  the  sound  of  guns  f 

And  there,  i.nd  there  again  ? 
'T  is  some  uneasy  iceberg's  roar. 

As  he  turns  in  the  frozen  main. 

Hurra  I  hurra !  the  Esquimaux 

Across  the  ice^fiolds  steal : 
Ood  give  them  grace  for  their  charity  I 

Ye  pray  for  the  silly  seal 

Sir  John,  where  are  the  English  field% 

And  where  the  English  trees, 
And  where  are  the  little  English  flowers, 

That  open  in  the  breeze  ? 

Be  still,  be  still,  my  brave  sailon  t 

You  shall  see  the  fields  again. 
And  smell  the  scent  of  the  opening  flowei% 

The  grass,  and  the  waving  grain. 

Oh  I  when  shall  I  see  my  orphan  child  T 

My  Mary  waits  for  mo  ; 
Oh  I  when  shall  I  see  my  old  mother. 

And  pray  at  her  trembling  knee  ? 

Be  still,  be  still,  my  brave  sailors  t 
Think  not  such  thoughts  again  I 

But  a  tear  froze  slowly  on  his  cheek  — 
He  thought  of  Lady  Jane. 

Ah  I  bitter,  bitter  grows  the  cold. 
The  ice  grows  more  and  more  ; 

More  settled  stare  the  wolf  and  bear. 
More  patient  than  before. 

Oh  1  think  you,  good  Sir  John  Franklin, 

We  Ml  ever  see  the  land  ? 
'T  was  cruel  to  send  us  here  to  starve. 

Without  a  helping  hand. 

'T  was  cruel,  Sir  John,  to  send  us  here, 

So  far  from  help  or  home ; 
To  starve  and  freeze  on  this  lonely  sea ; 
I  ween,  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty 

Had  rather  send  than  come. 

Oh !  whether  we  starve  to  death  alone, 

Or  sail  to  our  own  country. 
We  have  done  what  man  has  nover  done  — 
The  open  ocean  danced  in  the  sun  — 

We  passed  the  Northern  S^  I 


#|if^ 


the  searching  expeditions.  281 

The  Government  and  Private  Searching  Expeditions 
AFTER  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  following  is  a  complete  list  of  the  several  relief 
and  exploring  vessels  which  have  been  sent  out  during 
the  last  two  years  by  the  British  government,  by  private 
individuals,  and  by  the  American  nation : — 

Ships.  Men,  Comrnanders. 

1.  H.  M.  S.  Enterprise    -    -  68  Capt.  Collinsou. 

2.  H.  M.  S.  Investigator  -    -  65  Com.  M'Clure. 

3.  H.  M.  S.  Plover     -    -    -  52  Com.  Moore. 

4.  H.  M.  S.  Resolute  -    -    -  68  Capt.  H.  Austin. 

5.  IT.  M.  S.  Assistance    -    -  60  Capt.  E.  Ommaney. 

6.  H.  M.  S.  Intrepid,  (screw 

steamer,) 30    Lieut.  S.  Osbom. 

7.  II.  M.  S.  Intrepid,  (screw 

steamer,) 38    Lieut.  Cator. 

8.  The  Lady  Franklin    -    -   26    Mr.  Penny. 
0.  The  Sophia,  (a  tender  to 

the  above,) 22    Mr.  Stewart. 

10.  United   States  brig  Ad- 

vance   20    Lieut.  De  Haven. 

11.  United  States  vessel  Res- 

cue   18    Mr.  S.  P.  Griffin. 

12.  Felix  yacht Capt.  Sir  John  Ross. 

13.  Mary,  (tender  to  the  Felix.) 

14.  The  North  Star,  Master  and  Commander  Saunders. 

15.  The  Prince  Albert      -    -   18     Com.  Forsyth. 

Of  these  vessels  the  /ilnterprise.  Investigator,  and 
Plover,  are  at  present  engagecf  on  the  western  branch 
(»f  Fearch  through  Beh ring's  Straits.  The  rest  have  all 
jMoceeded  through  Baihn'tJ  Bay  to  Lancaster  Sound,  and 
flic  cliannels  branching  out  from  thence,  except  the  iant 
two,  which  have  returned  homo. 

V^oyage   of   the   "Enterprise"   and   " Intestioator'' 
under  Captain  Sir  Jakes  C.  Ross,  1848-49. 

In  the  spring  of  J  848,  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Rosa 
was  placed  in  command  of  a  well  found  and  ficted  ex- 
pedition, with  means  and  advantages  of  unusual  extent, 


i 


282 


PKOORK88    OF   AJiUllO   DIHOOVKKY. 


nnrl  witli  nn  object  that,  could  not  fiiil  to  fitimnlatc  in 
till"  hi<>:l»est  (Icgruo  the  energies  and  perrieverance  of  all 
cniljsii  ked  in  it.  With  the  over  present  feelinp^,  too,  that 
tlie  lives  of  their  countrymen  and  brother  aailors  de- 
peuded,  (under  God's  good  providence,)  upon  tiieir 
unliinching  exertions,  Captain  Ross  and  his  followers 
Went  forth  in  the  confident  hope  that  their  efforts  might 
be  crowned  with  success. 

The  season  was  considerably  advanced  before  tie 
whole  of  the  arrangements  were  completed,  for  it  was 
not  until  the  12th  of  June,  1848,  that  Cai^tain  Ross  letl 
England,  having  under  his  charge  the  Enterprise  and 
Investigator,  with  the  following  officers  and  crews  :— 

Enterprise^  640  tons. 

Captain  —  Sir  James  C.  Ross. 

Lieutenants  —  R.  J.  L.  M'Clure,  F.  L.  McCUntock, 

and  W.  PL  J.  Browne. 
Master  —  W.  S,  Couldery,  (acting^ 
Surgeon  —  AV.  Robertson,  ijj)  M.  D. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  IL  Matthias. 
Clerk  —  Edward  Whitehead. 

Total  complement,  68. 

Investigator^  480  tons, 
Captain  —  E.  XBird. 
Lieutenants — M.  G.  IL  W.  Ross,  Frederick  Robinson 

and  J.  J.  Barnard. 
Master — W.  T*>tham. 
Surgeon  —  Rob  rt  Anderson. 
Mates  —  L.  J.  Moore  and  S.  G.  Cresswell. 
Second  Master — John  H.  AUard. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  E.  Adams. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  James  D.  Gilpin. 
Total  complement,  67. 

The  ships  reached  the  Danish  settlement  of  Upper- 
navick,  situated  on  one  of  the  group  of  Woman's  Islands 
on  the  western  shore  of  Baffin's  Bay,  on  the  6th  of 
July.     Running  through  this  intricate  archipelago,  they 


VOTAQE   OF   ENTERPRISE    ANT)    INVKfiTIOATOR 


283 


were  made  fust,  on  the  20tli,  to  an  iceberg  aground  off 
Cape  Shackleton.  The  ships  were  towed,  during  thu 
next  few  days,  through  hjose  streams  of  ice,  anfl  on  tlio 
morning  of  the  2t)th  were  oft*  the  three  ishmds  of  J^atlin 
ill  latitude  74^  N.  Calms  and  light  winds  so  greatly 
impeded  any  movement  in  the  ])ack,  that  day  aftei 
(lay  passed  away  until  the  season  had  so  far  advanced 
as  to  preclude  every  hope  of  accomplishing  much,  if 
any  thing,  before  the  setting  in  of  winter. 

No  exertions, however,  were  spared  to  take  advantage 
of  every  opportunity  of  pushing  forward,  until,  on  tho 
20th  of  August,  during  a  heavy  breeze  from  the  north- 
east, the  ships  under  all  sail  bored  tlirough  a  ])ack  of  ice 
of  but  moderate  thickness,  but  having  among  il  heavy 
masses,  through  which  it  was  necessary  to  drive  them  at 
all  hazards.  The  shocks  the  ships  sustained  during  thia 
severe  trial  were  great,  but  fortunately  without  serious 
damage  to  them.  Getting  into  clear  water  in  hit.  75  h  N., 
and  long.  CS*^  W.,  on  the  23d  tho  ships  stood  in  to 
Pond's  Bay,  but  no  traces  of  Esquimaux  or  other  human 
beings  were  discovered,  although  signals  were  made  and 
guns  fired  at  repeated  intervals.  The  ships  were  kept 
close  to  the  land,  and  a  ligid  examination  made  of  tho 
coast  to  the  northward,  so  that  neither  peoj^le  nor  boats 
could  have  passed  without  being  seen.  On  the  2()th 
tlie  ships  arrived  oft*  Possession  Bay,  and  a  party  was 
sent  on  shore  to  search  for  any  traces  of  the  expedition 
having  touched  at  this  general  point  of  rendezvous. 
Xothing  was  found  but  tlie  i)aper  left  there  recording 
the  visit  of  Sir  Edward  Parry,  on  the  very  day  (August 
30th)  in  181f).  From  this  point  the  examination  of  the 
coast  was  continued  with  equal  care.  On  the  1st  of 
September  they  arrived  oft"  Cape  York,  and  a  boat's 
crew  was  sent  on  shore,  to  fix  a  conspicuous  mark,  and 
leave  information  for  the  guidance  of  any  future  party 
that  might  touch  here. 

I  shall  now  take  up  the  narrative  in  Sir  James  Ross's 

own  words  — "  We  stood  over  toward   northeast  cape 

until  we  came  in  with  the  edge  of  a  pack,  too  dense  wr 

us  to  penetrate,  lying  between  us  and  T.eopold  Island, 

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about  fourteen  miles  broad  ;  we  tbereforo  coasted  the 
north  sliore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  to  fieuk  a  harbor  t'lirther 
to  thewentward,  and  tooxaniine  tlie  ninnerous  inlets  of 
that  sliore.  Maxwell  Bay,  and  several  smaller  indenta- 
tions, were  thoroughly  explored,  and,  although  we  ^^jt 
near  the  entrance  of  VVelhngton  Channel,  the  linn  har- 
rier of  ice  which  stretched  across  it,  and  which  had  not 
broken  a'A'ay  this  season,  convinced  us  all  was  iniprac- 
tical)le  in  that  direction.  Wo  now  stood  to  the  south- 
west  to  seek  for  a  harbor  near  Cape  Rennell,  but  found 
a  heavy  body  of  ice  extending  from  the  west  of  Corn- 
wallis  Island  in  a  compact  mass  to  Leopold  iHhuid. 
Coasting  along  the  pack  during  stormy  and  togj,'y 
weather,  wo  had  difhculty  in  keeping  the  ships  tree 
during  the  nights,  for  1  believe  so  great  a  quantity  of  ico 
was  never  before  seen  in  Barrow's  Strait  at  this  period 
of  the  season." 

Fortunately,  after  some  days  of  anxious  and  arduous 
work,  the  ships  were  got  through  the  pack,  and  secured 
in  the  harbor  of  Port  Leopold  on  tho  11th  nf  Septeml^er. 
No  situation  could  be  better  adapted  for  tho  purpose 
than  this  locality  ;  being  at  the  junction  of  tlie  four 
great  channels  of  Barrow's  Strait,  Lancaster  Sound, 
rrince  Kcgcnt  Inlet,  ai'd  "Wellington  Channel,  it  was 
hardly  possible  for  any  party,  after  abandoning  their 
ships,  to  pass  along  the  shores  of  any  of  those  inlets, 
witliout  tinding  indications  of  tho  proximity  of  these 
ships. 

The  night  following  the  very  day  of  the  ships'  gettin<» 
in,  tho  main  pack  closed  with  tho  land,  and  completely 
sealed  tho  mouth  of  tho  harbor.  Tho  long  winter  was 
passed  in  exploring  and  surveying  journeys  along  tho 
coasts  in  all  directions.  During  tho  winter  as  nuiny  us 
fitly  white  foxes  were  taken  alive,  in  trai>s  made  of 
empty  casks  set  for  the  purpose.  As  it  was  well  known 
how  large  a  tract  of  country  these  animals  traverse  in 
search  of  food,  copper  collars,  (ujmn  which  a  notice  of 
the  position  of  the  ships  and  depots  of  provisions  was 
engraved,)  were  clinched  round  their  necks,  and  they 
were  then  set  free,  in  the  hope  that  some  of  these  four- 


A! 


VOYAOK  OF   ENTI-niPniSE    AND   INVESTIGATOR. 


285 


footed  messengers  might  be  the  moans  of  conveying  the 
intelligenco  to  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  as  tlie  erewH  of 
those  vesisels  wouhl  naturally  be  eager  for  their  cajiture. 
Tlie  months  of  April  and  May  were  occupied  by  Oupt. 
Koris,  Lieut.  McClintock,  and  a  party  of  twelve  men,  in 
examining  and  thoroughly  exj)loring  all  the  inlets  and 
Binaller  indentations  of  the  northern  an<l  western  coasts 
of  Boothia  peninsula,  in  which  any  ships  might  have 
found  shelter. 

From  the  liigli  land  in  the  neighborliood  of  Capo 
Bunny,  Capt.  Koss  obtained  a  very  extensive  view,  and 
observed  that  the  whole  space  between  it  and  (..'ape 
Walker  to  the  west,  and  Wellington  Strait  to  the  north, 
was  occupied  by  very  heavy  hummocky  ice. 

"  The  examination  of  the  coast,''  Sir  James  Koss  tells 
us,  "was  pursued  until  the  5th  of  June,  when,  having 
consumed  more  than  half  our  provisions,  and  tlu  Btrength 
of  the  party  being  much  reduced,  I  was  rehu  tantly 
compelled  to  abandon  further  operations,  as  it  was, 
moreover,  necessary  to  give  the  men  a  diiy  of  rest. 
But  that  the  time  might  not  wholly  be  lost,  1  proceed ed 
with  two  hands  to  the  extreme  south  point  in  sight  from 
oir  encam])ment,  distant  about  eight  or  nine  mih»s." 

This  extreme  point  is  situate  in  hit.  72'^  38'  ^.,  and 
lung.  95°  40'  W.,  and  is  the  west  face  of  a  small  high 
peninsula.  The  state  of  the  atmosphere  being  at  the 
time  peculiarly  favorable  for  distinctness  of  vision,  land 
of  any  great  elevation  might  have  been  seen  at  the  dis- 
tance of  100  miles.  The  nighest  capo  of  the  coast  was 
not  more  than  fifty  miles  distant,  l)earing  nearly  duo 
south.  A  very  narrow  isthmus  was  found  to  separate 
Prince  Regent  Inlet  from  th*  western  sea  at  (/resswell 
jind  Brentford  Bays.  The  ice  in  this  quarter  Droved  to 
be  eight  feet  thick.  A  largii  cairn  of  stones  wa-  erected, 
iind  on  the  Cth  of  June,  the  return  journey  was  com- 
menced. After  encountering  a  variety  of  ditHeultie 
tliey  reaehed  the  ships  on  the  ii3d,  so  completely  worn 
out  by  fatigue,  that  every  man  was,  from  some  cause  or 
otlier,  in  the  doctor's  hands  for  two  or  three  weeks. 
During  their  absence,  Mr.  Matthias,  the  assistant-surgeon 


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PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERT. 


of  the  Enterprise,  had  died  of  consumption.  Several  of 
the  crews  of  both  ships  were  in  a  declining  state,  and 
the  general  re]3ort  of  health  w.as  by  no  means  cheeriuf/. 

"VVliile  Captuin  Ross  was  away,  Commander  Bird 
had  dispatched  other  surveying  parties  in  different  di- 
rections. One,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Bar- 
nard, to  the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  crossing 
tiie  ice  to  Cape  Hind ;  a  second,  commanded  by  Lieu- 
tenant Browne,  to  the  eastern  shore  of  Regent  Inlet- 
and  a  third  party  of  six  men,  conducted  by  Lieutenant 
Robinson,  along  the  western  shore  of  the  Inlet.  Tiie 
latter  officer  extended  his  examination  of  the  coast  as 
far  as  Cresswell  Bay,  several  miles  to  the  southward 
of  Fury  Beach.  He  found  the  house  still  standing  in 
which  Sir  John  Ross  passed  the  winters  of  1832-33, 
together  witli  a  quantity  of  the  stores  and  provisions 
of  tlie  Fury,  lost  there  in  1827.  On  opening  some  of 
the  packages  containing  flour,  sugar  and  peas,  they 
were  all  found  to  be  in  excellent  preservation,  and  the 
pi-eserved  soup  as  good  as  when  manufactured.  The 
labors  of  these  searching  parties  were,  however,  of 
comparatively  short  duration,  as  they  all  suffered  from 
snow-blindness,  sprained  ankles,  and  debility. 

As  it  was  now  but  too  evident,  from  no  traces  of  the 
absent  expedition  having  been  met  with  by  any  of 
these  parties,  that  the  ships  could  not  have  been  de- 
tained anywhere  in  this  part  of  the  arctic  regions, 
Captain  Ross  considered  it  most  desirable  to  push  for- 
M\ird  to  the  westward  as  soon  as  his  ships  should  be  lib- 
erated. His  chief  hopes  now  centered  in  the  efforts  of 
Sir  John  Richardson's  party;  but  he  felt  persuaded 
that  S:,"  John  Franklin's  ships  must  have  penetrated 
so  far  beyond  Melville  Island  as  to  induce  him  to  prefer 
making  for  the  continent  of  America  rather  than  seek- 
ing assistance  from  the  whale  ships  in  Baffin's  Bay. 
The  crews,  weakened  by  incessant  exertion,  were  now 
in  a  very  unfit  state  to  undertake  the  heavy  labor 
which  they  had  yet  to  accomplish,  but  all  hands  that 
were  able  were  set  to  work  with  saws  to  cut  a  channel 
toward  the  point  of  the  harbor,  a  distance  of  iather 


VOYAGE   OF   ENTERPltISP:    AND   INVESTIGATOR.        287 


)een  de- 
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more  than  two  miles,  and  on  the  28th  of  August  tlio 
ships  got  clear.  Before  quitting  the  port,  a  house  was 
built  of  the  spare  spars  of  both  ships,  and  covered  with 
such  of  the  housing  cloths  as  could  be  dispensed  with. 
Twelve  months'  provisions,  fuel,  and  other  necessaries 
were  also  left  behind,  together  with  the  steam  launch 
belonging  to  the  Investigator,  which,  having  been  pur- 
posely lengthened  seven  feet,  now  formed  a  fine  vessel, 
capable  of  conveying  the  whole  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
party  to  the  whale  ships,  if  necessary. 

The  Investigator  and  Enterprise  now  proceeded 
toward  the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  for  the 
purpose  of  examining  Wellington  Channel,  and,  if  pos- 
sible, penetrating  as  far  as  Melville  Island,  but  when 
about  twelve  miles  from  the  shore,  the  ships  came  to 
the  fixed  land-ice,  and  found  it  impossible  to  proceed. 

On  the  1st  of  September  a  strong  wind  suddenly 
arising,  brought  the  loose  pack,  through  which  they 
had  been  struggling,  down  upon  the  ships,  which  were 
closely  beset.  At  times,  during  two  or  three  days, 
they  sustained  severe  pressure,  and  ridges  of  hum- 
mocks were  thrown  up  all  around  ;  but  after  that  time 
the  temperature  falling  to  near  zero,  it  formed  the 
whole  body  of  ice  into  one  solid  mass. 

The  remainder  of  the  narrative,  as  related  by  the 
Commander  of  the  expedition  in  his  official  dispatch, 
will  not  bear  abridgment. 

"  We  were  so  circumstanced  that  for  some  days  we 
could  not  unship  the  rudder,  and  when,  by  the  labori- 
ous operation  of  sawing  and  removing  the  hummocks 
from  under  the  stern,  we  were  able  to  do  so,  we  found 
it  twisted  and  damaged ;  and  the  ship  was  so  much 
strained,  as  to  increase  the  leakage  from  three  inches 
in  a  fortnight  to  fourteen  inches  daily.  The  ice  was 
stationary  for  a  few  days  ;  the  pressure  had  so  folded 
the  lighter  pieces  over  each  other  and  they  were  so 
interlaced,  as  to  form  one  entire  sheet,  extending  from 
shore  to  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and  as  far  to  the  east 
and  west  as  the  eye  could  discern  from  the  mast-head, 
while  the  extreme  severity  of  the  temperature   had 


'ii 


li 


Tit 


1  •      t 


!    li  '    1 


Mi 


'V        ■  i 


Ilk;- 


tut 

> 

»■ 


h 


w 


288 


PKOQKESS    OF   ARCTIO   DISCO VEKY. 


cemented  the  whole  so  firmly  together  that  it  apr)eared 
hii^lily  improbable  that  it  could  break  up  again  this 
season.  In  the  space  which  had  been  cleared  away 
for  unshipping  the  rudder,  the  newly-formed  ice  was 
fifteen  inches  thick,  and  in  some  places  along  the  ship's 
side  the  thirteen-feet  screws  were  too  short  to  work. 
We  had  now  fully  made  up  our  minds  that  the  sliips 
were  fixed  for  the  winter,  and  dismal  as  the  prospect 
appeared,  it  was  far  preferable  to  being  carried  aloncr 
the  west  coast  of  BaflSn's  Bay,  where  the  grounded 
bergs  are  in  such  numbers  upon  the  shallow  banks  off 
tliat  shore,  as  to  render  it  next  to  impossible  for  ships 
involved  in  a  pack  to  escape  destruction.  It  was, 
therefore,  with  a  mixture  of  hope  and  anxiety  that,  on 
the  wind  shifting  to  the  westward,  we  perceived  the 
whole  body  of  ice  begin  to  drive  to  the  eastward,  at  the 
rate  of  eight  to  ten  miles  daily.  Every  effort  on  our 
part  was  totally  unavailing,  for  no  human  power  could 
have  moved  either  o'^^he  ships  a  single  inch ;  they  were 
thus  completely  taken  out  of  our  own  hands,  and  in  the 
center  of  a  field  of  ice  more  than  fifty  miles  in  circum- 
ference, were  carried  along  the  southern  shore  of 
Lancaster  Sound. 

"  After  passing  its  entrance,  the  ice  drifted  in  a  more 
southerly  direction ,  along  the  western  shore  of  Bafiin's 
Bay,  until  we  were  abreast  of  Pond's  Bay,  to  the  south- 
ward of  which  we  observed  a  great  number  of  icebergs 
stretching  across  our  path,  and  presenting  the  fearful 
prospect  of  our  worst  anticipations.  But  when  least 
expected  by  us,  our  release  was  almost  miraculously 
brought  about.  The  great  field  of  ice  was  rent  into 
innumerable  fragments,  as  if  by  some  unseen  power." 

By  energetic  exertion,  warping,  and  sailing,  the  ships 
got  clear  of  the  pack,  and  reached  an  open  space  of 
water  on  the  25th  of  September. 

"  It  is  impossible,"  says  Captain  Ross,  in  his  con 
eluding  observations,  "to  convey  any  idea  of  the  sen 
sation  we  experienced  when  we  found  ourselves  once 
more  at  liberty,  while  many  a  grateful  heart  poured 
forth  its  praises  and  thanksgivings  to  A.lmlghty  God 
for  this  unlooked  for  deliverance." 


tjator 
"  Af 


it  is 


^^m 


3  ship's 
)  work, 
e  ships 
I'ospect 
i  along 
funded 
nks  off 
•r  ships 
It  was, 
hat,  on 
^ed  the 
,  at  the 
on  our 
r  could 
iy  were 
i  in  the 
sircum- 
lore  of 

a  more 
Baffin's 
south- 
ebergs 
fearful 
n  least 
ilously 
nt  into 
ower." 
e  shipa 
>ace  of 

is  con 
le  sen 
once 
3onred 
yGod 


VOYAGE   OF   ENTERPRISE    AND   INVESTIGATOR. 


289 


*'The  ad  stance  of  winter  had  now  closed  all  the  har- 
bors against  ns ;  and  as  it  was  impossible  to  ])enetrate 
to  the  westward  through  the  pack  from  which  we  had 
just  been  liberated,  I  made  the  signal  to  the  Investi- 
irator  of  mv  intention  to  return  to  Enirland." 

After  a  favorable  passage,  the  ships  arrived  home 
early  in  IS^ovember,  Captain  Sir  J.  C.  Ross  rei)orting 
himself  at  the  Admiralty  on  the  r)th  of  November. 

As  this  is  the  last  arctic  voyage  of  Sir  James  C.  Ross, 
it  is  a  fitting  place  for  some  record  of  his  arduous 
services. 

Captain  Sir  James  Clarke  Ross  entered  the  navy  in 
1812,  and  served  as  volunteer  of  the  first  class,  mid- 
shipman and  mate  until  1817,  with  his  uncle  Com- 
mander Ross.  In  1818  he  was  aj^pointed  Admiralty 
midshipman  in  the  Isabella,  on  Commander  Ross's  first 
voyage  of  discovery  to  the  arctic  seas.  He  was  then 
midshipman  in  the  two  following  years  with  Captain 
Parry,  in  the  Ilecla  ;  followed  him  again  in  the  Fury 
in  his  second  voyage,  and  was  promoted  on  the  26th 
of  December,  1822.  In  1824  and  1825,  he  was  lieu- 
tenant in  the  Fury,  under  Captain  Iloppner,  on  Parry's 
third  voyage.  In  1827,  he  was  appointed  first  lieuten- 
ant of  the  tlecla,  under  Parry,  and  accompanied  him 
in  command  of  the  second  boat  in  his  attempt  to  reach 
the  North  Pole.  On  his  return  he  received  his  promo- 
tion to  the  rank  of  commander,  the  8th  of  November, 
1827.  From  1829  to  1833,  he  was  employed  with  his 
uncle  as  second  in  command  in  the  Victory  on  the  pri- 
vate expedition  sent  out  by  Mr.  Felix  Booth.  During 
this  period  he  planted,  on  the  1st  of  June,  1831,  the 
British  flag  on  the  North  Magnetic  Pole.  For  this,  on 
his  return,  he  was  jDresented  by  the  Herald's  College 
with  an  addition  to  his  family  arms  of  an  especial  crest, 
representing  a  flag-stafl['  erect  on  a  rock,  with  tlie  union 
jack  hoisted  thereon,  inscribed  with  the  date,  "  1  June, 
1831."  On  the  23d  of  October,  1834,  he  was  promoted 
to  the  rank  of  Captain,  and  in  the  following  year  em- 
ployed in  making  magnetic  observations,  preparatory 
to  the  general  magnetic  survey  of  England.      In  the 


f 


lU 


'   H 


1 


' 


•i! 


wm\ 


|.K|I 


A\ 


' 


:% 


if 

t 

i 

/  r 


290 


PKOGRESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVJiKY. 


If' 


close  of  183C,  it  having  been  represented  to  the  Ad 
niirtilty,  from  Hull,  that  eleven  whale  ships,  having  oa 
board  000  men,  were  left  in  tlie  ice  in  i)avis'  Strait, 
and  in  imminent  danger  of  perishing,  unless  relief  weru 
forwarded  to  them,  the  Lords  Connoissioners  resolved 
upon  sending  out  a  ship  to  search  for  them.  Captain 
Koss,  with  that  promptitude  and  humanity  which  has 
always  characterized  him,  volrnteered  to  go  out  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  and  the  Lieutenants,  F.  11.  M.  Crozier, 
Inman,  and  Ommaney,  with  the  three  mates,  Jesse, 
Buchan,  and  John  Smith,  and  Mr.  Ilallett,  clerk  in 
cliarge,  joined  him.  Tliey  sailed  from  England  on  the 
21st  of  December,  and  on  arriving  in  Davis'  Strait,  after 
a  stormy  passage,  found  that  nine  of  the  missing  ships 
were  by  that  time  in  England,  that  the  tentli  was  re- 
leased on  her  passage,  and  that  the  other  was  in  all 
probability  lost,  as  some  of  her  water-casks  had  been 
picked  up  at  sea.  From  1837  to  1838,  Captain  Eoss 
was  employed  in  determining  the  variation  of  the  com- 
pass on  all  parts  of  the  coast  of  Great  Britain  ;  and 
from  1839  to  1843,  as  Captain  of  the  Erel3us,  in  com- 
mand of  the  antarctic  expedition.  In  1841,  he  was 
presented  with  the  founder's  medal  of  the  Royal  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  London,  for  his  discoveries  toward 
the  South  Pole ;  and  he  has  also  received  the  gold 
medal  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris.  On  the 
13th  of  March,  1844,  he  received  the  honor  of  knight- 
hood from  the  Queen,  and  in  June  of  the  same  year 
the  University  of  Oxford  bestowed  on  him  their  honor- 
ary degree  of  D.  0.  L.  In  1848,  he  went  out,  as  we 
have  just  seen,  in  the  Enterprise,  in  Command  of  one 
of  the  searching  expeditions  sent  to  seek  for  Franklin. 


S 


Ih 


YOYAGE  OF   II.  M.  S.  "  IS'ORTH   StAR." 

The  ISTorth  Star,  of  500  tons,  was  fitted  out  in  the 
spring  of  1849,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  J.  Saunders, 
who  had  been  acting  master  with  Captain  Back,  in  the 
Terror,  in  her  perilous  voyage  to  the  Frozen  Strait,  in 
1836. 


VOYAGE   OF   THE   NORTH   STAK. 


291 


1 1 


in  all 
been 
Eoss 
i  com- 
;  and 
1  com- 
e  was 
Geo- 
pward 
gold 
n  the 
iio;lit- 
year 
lonor- 
.s  we 
one 
ddin. 


the 
|ders, 

the 
it,  m 


The  following  are  the  officers  of  the  ships  : — 

Master  Commanding  —  J.  Sannders. 

Second    Masters  —  John  Way,  M.  !N^orman,  H.  B. 

Gawler. 
Acting  Ice-masters  —  J.  Leach,  and  G.  Sabestor. 
Assistant  Surgeon  — James  Eae,  M.  D. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  Jasper  Rutter. 

The  North  Star  sailed  from  the  river  Thames,  on  tlio 
26th  of  May,  1849,  freighted  with  provisions  for  the 
missing  expedition,  and  with  orders  and  supplies  for 
the  Enterprise  and  Investigator. 

The  following  is  one  of  the  early  dispatches  from  the 
commander  : — • 

"  To  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty. 

"  //.  if.  S.  North  Star,  July  19,  1849, 
lat.  74°  3'  iT.,  long.  59°  40'  W. 

"Sir, —  I  addressed  a  letter  to  their  Lordships  on  the 
18th  lilt.,  when  in  lat.  73°  30'  N.,  and  long.  56°  53'  W., 
detailing  the  particulars  of  my  proceedings  up  to  that 
date,  "svhich  letter  was  sent  by  a  boat  from  the  Lady 
Jane,  whaler,  which  vessel  was  wrecked,  and  those  boats 
were  proceeding  to  the  Danish  settlements.  Since  then, 
t  regret  to  state,  our  progress  has  been  almost  entirely 
stopped,  owing  to  the  ice  being  so  placed  across  Mel- 
ville Bay  as  to  render  it  perfectly  impassable. 

"  On  the  6th  inst.,  finding  it  impossible  to  make  any 
progress,  I  deemed  it  advisable  to  run  as  far  S.  as  72°, 
examining  the  pack  as  we  went  along.  At  72°  22'  the 
pack  appeared  slacker,  and  we  entered  it,  and,  after 
proceeding  about  tw^elve  miles,  found  ourselves  com- 
pletely stopped  by  large  floes  of  ice.  We  accordingly 
put  back,  and  stecied  again  for  the  northward. 

"  Having  this  day  reached  tlie  latitude  of  74°  3'  N., 
and  long.  59°  40'  W.,  the  ice  appeared  more  open,  and 
^ve  stood  in  toward  the  land,  when  we  observed  two 
boats  approaching,  and  which  afterward,  on  coming 
alongside,  were  found  to  belong  to  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
rvlialer,  which  vessel  was  nipped  by  the  ice  on  the  12th 
net.,  in  Melville  Bay. 


\  ■ 


I 


i: 


I 


202 


rrtOORKSS    UK    AKCIICJ    DISCOVEKY. 


"  By  the  captain  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  I  forward 
this  letter  to  their  Lonl8hii)s,  lie  intending  to  proceed 
in  his  boats  to  tlie  Danish  settlements. 
"  1  have  the  honor  to  l)e,  etc. 

"J.  Saundeks,  Master  and  Commander. 
"  P.  S.-    ^rew  all  well  on  board." 

On  tlic  20th  of  July,  liaving  reached  the  vicinity  of 
the  Devil's  Thumb  and  Melville  Bay,  in  the  northerly 
part  of  Baffin's  Bay,  she  was  beset  in  an  ice-iield,  with 
wdiich  she  drifted  helplessly  about  as  the  tide  or  wind 
impelled  her,  until  the  16th  of  August,  when,  a  slight 
opening  in  tlie  ice  appearing,  an  effort  was  made  to 
heave  through  into  clear  water.  Tliis  proved  labor  in 
vain,  and  no  further  move  was  made  until  the  21st  of 
September,  except  as  she  drifted  in  the  ice  floe  in  wliicli 
she  was  fixed.  On  the  day  last  named  she  was  driving 
before  a  hard  gale  from  the  S.  S.  W.,  directly  down  upon 
an  enormous  iceberg  in  Melville  Sound,  upon  which  if 
she  had  sti'uck  in  the  then  prevailing  weather,  her  total 
destruction  would  have  been  inevitable.  Providen- 
tially a  corner  of  the  ice-field  in  which  she  was  beino; 
carried  furiously  along  came  into  violent  co-llision  with 
the  berg,  a  large  section  was  carried  away,  and  sho 
escaped.  On  the  20th  of  September,  1840,  having  been 
sixty-two  days  in  the  ice,  she  took  up  her  winter  quar- 
ters in  North  Star  Bay,  so  called  after  herself,  a  small 
bay  in  Wolstenholme  Sound,  lying  in  76°  33'  north  lat- 
itude, and  68°  56'  west  longitude  ;  the  farthest  point  to 
the  north  at  which  a  British  ship  ever  wintered.  T'lo 
ship  was  fixed  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and 
made  snug  for  the  winter,  sails  were  unbent,  the  masts 
struck,  and  the  ship  housed  over  and  made  as  warm 
and  comfortable  as  circumstances  would  permit.  The 
ice  soon  after  took  across  the  Sound,  so  that  the  crew 
could  have  walked  on  shore.  The  cold  was  intense  ; 
but  two  or  three  stoves  warmed  the  ship,  and  the  crews 
were  cheered  up  and  encouraged  with  all  sorts  of  games 
and  amusements,  occasionally  visiting  the  shore  for  the 
purpose  of  skylarking.  There  w\as,  unfortunately,  but 
little  game  to  shoot.     Former  accounts  gave  this  pb  ^», 


■;  ■ 


was 


»^' 


warm 
The 
3  crew 
ense  ; 
crews 
yames 
or  the 
7,  but 
pi?  ^», 


1 


VOYAGE   OF   'IWE   NORTH   STAR. 


293 


a  high  character  for  deer  and  other  animals  ;  bnt  the 
crew  of  the  North  Star  never  saw  a  sin<]::le  head  of  deer, 
and  other  animals  were  scarce  ;  about  fifty  liares  wero 
killed.  Foxes  were  numerous,  and  a  number  shot,  but 
none  taken  alive.  A  few  Esquimaux  families  occasion- 
nlly  visited  tlie  ship,  and  one  poor  man  was  l)roiight  on 
board  witli  his  feet  so  frozen  that  they  dropp.ed.  ilo 
was  placed  under  the  care  of  the  assistant-siu'geon.  Dr. 
Rae,  who  paid  him  much  attention,  and  his  legs  were 
nearly  cured  ;  but  ho  died  from  ?.  pulmonary  disorder 
after  having  been  on  board  some  six  weeks.  The  North 
Star  was  not  able  to  lep.ve  this  retreat  until  the  1st  of 
August,  1850,  and  got  into  clear  water  on  the  third  of 
that  month.  On  the  21st  of  August,  she  spoke  the 
Lady  Franklin,  Captain  Penny,  and  her  consort  the 
Sophia,  and  the  following  day  the  Felix,  Sir  Jolin  lloss, 
in  Lancaster  Sound.  Captain  Penny  reported  tliat  he 
had  left  Captain  Austin  all  well  on  the  17th  of  August. 
On  the  23d  of  August,  the  North  Star  began  landing 
the  provisions  she  had  carried  out  in  Navy  Board  In- 
let ;  73°  W  N.  latitude,  80°  56'  W.  longitude.  Slie 
remained  five  days  there,  and  was  occupied  four  and  a 
half  in  landing  the  stores,  which  were  deposited  in  a 
ravine  a  short  distance  from  the  beach  of  Supply  Bay, 
the  bight  in  Nayy  Board  Inlet,  which  the  commander 
of  the  North  Star  so  named.  The  position  of  the  stores 
was  indicated  by  a  flag-staif,  with  a  black  ball,  and  a 
letter  placed  beneath  a  cairn  of  stones.  They  had  pre- 
viously tried  to  deposit  the  stores  at  Port  Bowen,  and 
Port  Neale,  but  were  prevented  approaching  them  by 
the  ice.  On  the  30th  of  August,  the  North  Star  saw 
and  spoke  the  schooner  Prince  Albert,  Commander 
Forsyth,  in  Possession  Bay.  On  the  31st,  a  boat  was 
sent  to  the  Prince  Albert,  when  Commander  Forsyth 
came  on  board  and  reported  that  he  had  also  been  to 
Port  Neale,  but  had  not  been  able  to  enter  for  the  ice, 
and  had  found  one  of  the  American  ships  sent  out  to 
search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  ashore  in  Barrow's  Strait, 
that  he  had  tendered  assistance,  which  had  been  de- 
clined by  the  American  commander,  as,  his  ship  being 


1 


t!      I 


1 1 


t  ! 
i  i,  ,'  ( 


;  M 


■ 

I 
I 


l< 


'ill 


■•I 


;-  ■! 


I 


;      1 


1  f 


t 

.t 


\-\ 


\:     ' 


%i 


mmtm'''^i^^ 


294 


PROGItKSS  OF  AUCrriC    I^ISCOV'KIiY. 


uninjured,  lie  believed  liis  own  crew  comi^ctcnt  to  jrct 
her  ofi'.  Coinmunder  Forsyth  reported  that  (Captain 
Austin  had  proceeded  to  Pond's  Bay  in  the  Intrepid, 
tender  to  the  Assistance,  to  hind  letters.  Tlie  North 
Star  went  on  to  Pond's  Bay,  but  could  not  find  any  in- 
dication  of  Caj^taiu  Austin's  having  been  there.  It  is 
conjectured  that  ho  had  passed  the  appointed  spot  in  a 
fog.  The  North  Star's  people  suffered  much  from  the 
intense  cold,  but  only  lost  five  hands  during  her  peril- 
ous trip  and  arctic  winter  quarters.  She  left  there  on 
September  9th,  and  reached  Si^ithead  on  the  28tli  of 
September,  1850.  Since  his  return  Mr.  Saunders  has 
been  appointed  Master  Attendant  of  the  Dock-yard  at 
Malta.  The  Admiralty  have  received  dispatclies  from 
Captain  Sir  J.  lloss.  Captain  Penny,  and  Captain  Oni- 
maney.  Cai)tain  Ommaney,  in  the  Assistance,  dating 
from  off  Lancaster  Sound,  latitude  75°  40'  N.,  loni^'i- 
tude  75°  49'  W.,  states  that  some  Esquimaux  had  de- 
scribed to  him  a  ship  being  hauled  in  during  the  last 
winter,  and,  on  going  to  the  spot,  he  found,  from  some 
papers  left,  that  it  was  the  North  Star.  Ho  was  pro- 
ceeding to  search  in  Lancaster  Sound.  CajDtain  Pennj^, 
of  tlie  Lady  Franklin,  writing  from  Lancaster  Sound, 
August  21,  states,  that  having  heard  on  the  18th  from 
Captain  Austin  of  a  report  from  the  Esquimaux,  that 
Sir  John  Franklin's  ships  had  been  lost  forty  miles 
north,  and  the  crews  murdered,  he  went  with  an  inter- 
preter, but  could  find  no  evidence  for  the  rumor,  and 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  whole  story  had  been 
founded  on  the  North  Star's  wintering  there.  He  con« 
eidered  that  his  interpreter,  M.  Petersen,  had  done  much 
good  by  exposing  ihe  fallacy  of  the  story  of  Sir  J 
Koss's  Esquimaux. 


m 


CU 


Her  Majesty's  Smps  "Enterprise"  and  "Investiga 
tor"  under  Captain  Collinson. 

The  Enterprise  and  Investigator  were  fitted  out  agair 
immediately  on  their  return  liome,  and  placed  undei 
the  charge  of  Captain  B.  Collinson,  C.  B.,  with  the  fol 


i 


dating 

luni^i- 

iid  do- 


1  much 
;ir  J 


3TIGA 


lagair 
II)  del 
lefol 


SECOND  TRIP  OF  ENTERPRISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR.     295 

lowing  officers  attaclied,  to  proceed  to  Beliriiig's  Strait, 
to  resumo  the  search  in  that  direction  : — 

Enterprise^  340  tons. 
Captain — K.  Collinson. 
Lieutenants  —  G.  A.  Phayre,*  J.  J.  Barnard,*  and 

C.  T.  Jago. 
Master — R.  T.  G.  Legg. 
Second  Master — Francis  Skead. 
Mate  —  M.  T.  Parks. 
Surgeon  —  Robert  Anderson.* 
Assistant-Surgeon — Edward  Adams.* 
Clark  in  Charge  —  Edwa^'d  Wliitehead.* 
Total  complement,  QQ, 

Investigator, 

Commander  —  R.  J.  M'Clure.* 
Lieutenants — W.  II.  Haswell  and  S.  G.  Cresswell.* 
Mates  —  H.  H.  Saintsbury  and  R.  J.  Wyniatt. 
Second  Master  —  Stephen  Court.* 
Surgeon  —  Alexander  Armstrong,  M.  D. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Hy.  Piers. 
CJ^rk  in  Charge  —  Joseph  C.  Paine. 
Total  complement,  QQ. 

Those  officers  marked  with  a  star  had  been  with  the 
ehipr,  in  their  last  voyage. 

Tliese  vessels  sailed  from  Plymouth  on  the  20th  of 
January,  1850.  A  Mr.  Micrtsching,  a  Moravian  mis- 
sionary, was  appointed  to  the  Enterprise,  as  interpreter. 
This  gentleman  is  in  the  prime  of  life,  of  robust  health, 
inured,  by  a  service  of  hve  years  in  Labrador,  to  the 
hardships  and  privations  of  the  arctic  regions,  and  suffi- 
ciently acquainted  with  the  language  and  manners  of 
the  Esquimaux  to  be  able  to  hold  friendly  and  unre- 
served intercourse  with  them.  > 

The  Investigator  and  the  Enterprise  were  at  tlio 
Sandwich  Islands  on  June  29th.  Captain  Collinson 
purposed  sailing  in  a  few  days,  and  expected  to  reach 
the  ice  about  the  8th  of  July.      Prior  to  his  arrival, 


!/'■ 


m 


!i(i 


I    '    ,! 


m\i 


\ 

1 

^      \ 

i 

1          "' 

j, 

jm 

#, 

t 

III 


'  '\ 


;  t4lr  ■ 


■  ^■ 


.1 M 


» 


iiii 


296 


PROOKK88   OF    AUCl'IC    DISCoVKRY. 


niiincronfl  wlmlors  had  stiirttMl  tor  tho  Strait,  one  in  par 
ticuhir,  iiiidor  the  cumnuind  of  a  Captain  Koyw,  with 
tlio  o.\|)i't'ss('(l  intcntiun  of  ondcuvonng  to  earn  tlio 
Franlvlin  reward. 

These  vessels  arc  intended  to  penetrate,  if  possible,  to 
tlio  western  extremity  of  Melville  Island,  tliere  to  winter, 
and  make  fnrtlier  seareli,  in  the  spring  of  1851,  for  tliy 
crews  of  the  lost  ships. 

In  a  letter  from  Captain  Collinson  to  Commander  Mc 
Clure,  dated  Oahu,  Jnne  29th,  1850,  with  a  sight  of 
which  I  have  been  favored  at  the  Admiralty,  he  thus 
describes  his  intentions — "  1  intend  making  the  ])ucl\ 
close  to  the  American  shore,  and  availing  njyself  of  tho 
first  favorable  opening  west  of  the  coast  stream  ;  pressing 
forward  toward  Melville  Island.  In  the  event  of  meet- 
ing land,  it  is  most  probable  that  I  wonld  pursue  tho 
southern  shore." 

The  latest  letter  received  from  Commander  McClure 
18  dated  Kotzebuo  Sound,  July  27th,  1850,  and  the 
following  is  an  extract ; — 

"  You  will  be  glad  to  learn  that  to  this  we  have  been 
highly  favored,  carrying  a  fair  wind  from  Whoa,  which 
place  we  left  on  the  4th.  We  passed  the  Aleutian 
Islands  on  the  20th,  in  172°  30'  W.,  and  got  fairly 
through  tlie  Straits  to-day,  and  we  consider  we  are  upon 
our  ground ;  the  only  detriment  has  been  very  dense 
fogs,  which  have  rendered  the  navigation  of  the  islands 
exceedingly  nervous  work ;  but  as  the  object  to  be 
achieved  is  of  so  important  a  nature,  all  hazards  must 
be  run  to  carry  out  the  intentions  of  those  at  home, 
which  have  very  fortunately  terminated  without  acci- 
dent. We  are  now  making  the  most  of  our  wind,  and 
we  hope  to  meet  an  American  whaler,  of  which  I  be- 
lieve there  are  a  great  number  fishing  this  season,  and 
to  whom  we  must  intrust  our  last  disj^atches.  Sincerely 
do  I  trust  that,  ere  we  return,  some  tidings  of  poor  Sir 
John  and  his  noble  companions  may  reward  our  search ; 
which  will  render  the  long-sought  for  passage,  should 
it  l)e  our  fortune  to  make  it,  one  of  the  most  memorable 
in  the  annals  of  our  times,  and  relieve  many  an  anxious 
breast " 


0 

Cap 
c]atc< 
from 
with 
Chan 
cod  in 
ward 
retur 
son's 
esty's 
sliort 
Lslant 
Ijurne 
Auguj 
Moore 
ined  tl 
withoi 
tion. 
fered 
having 
in  Grai 
Island  ] 
the  sou 
Dispj 
linson. 
Comma 
of  whic 


the  proc 
rnand  sii 
"Bein 
Western  < 
and  mac 
August,  : 
burne,  in 


par 
with 
1  tlio 

)k',  to 
iiitei', 
31'  tlio 

;rMc 
;lit  of 
i  tlius 
I  ])ac'k 
of  the 
'cssiiii' 
niect- 
ue  the 

cCluro 
id  the 

e  been 

.which 

eutiiui 

fairly 

upon 

deiiso 
slanda 

to  be 
must 

home, 
acci- 

:1,  and 
I  be- 
,  and 
lerely 

lOr  Sir 

arch ; 

hoiild 

rable 

xious 


SECOND   TKIP    OF    ENTKKIMtlSK    AND    INVK8TIUAHJK.  207 


Oispatchcs  luivo  lu'on  roci-ivod  ut  tlio  Adnilndtv  from 

ii)   lli-ndd^ 
dated  at  sea,  tlio  14th  of  October,  1850,  on  hirt  return 


Captain    Kellet,  C.  !>.,  of  lier  Majesty's  bhij)   llendd. 


from  Belirin<('s  Strait.  The  ilerahl  had  coniinunieated 
with  her  ^[ajosty'ti  sldp  rit)ver,  on  the  lOth  of  .July,  at 
Chaniisso  Island,  where  the  Plover  had  i)assed  the  pre- 
cc(lin«]^  winter.  The  two  ships  proeeeded  to  tlie  north- 
ward until  they  sighted  the  pack-ice,  when  the  Herald 
returned  to  Capo  Lisburne,  in  quest  of  Captain  CoUin- 
Bon's  expedition,  and  on  the  Slst  fell  in  with  lier  ^[aj- 
esty's  ship  Investigator,  which  had  made  a  surprisingly 
short  pa8sa<:;o  of  twenty-six  days  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  Tlie  Herald  renuiined  cruising  oif  Cai)e  Lis- 
Ijurne,  and  again  fell  in  with  the  Plover  on  the  loth  of 
A^ugust,  on  her  return  from  Point  Barrow,  Commander 
Moore  having  coasted  in  his  boats,  and  minutely  exam- 
ined the  several  inlets  as  far  as  that  point  from  icy  Capo 
without  gaining  any  intelligence  of  the  missing  expedi- 
tion. Commander  Moore  and  his  boat's  crew  had  suf- 
fered severely  from  exposure  to  cold.  Captain  Kellet, 
having  fully  victualed  the  Plover,  ordered  her  to  winter 
in  Grantley  Harbor  (her  former  anchorage  at  Chamisso 
Island  not  being  considered  safe,)  and  tl  eii  returned  to 
the  southward  on  his  way  to  Englanc' 

Dispatches  have  also  been  received  from  Captain  Col- 
linson,  C.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Enterprise,  and 
Commander  M'Clure,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Investigator 
of  whicli  the  following  are  copies  : — 

"  ITer  Majesty^ s  Ship  ^Enterpriser 
''Fort  Clarence,  Sept.  13, 1850. 

"Sir, — I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  an  account  of 
the  proceedings  of  her  Majesty's  ship  under  my  com 
rnand  since  leaving  Oahu  on  the  30th  of  June. 

"Being  delayed  by  light  winds,  we  only  reached  tho 
western  end  of  the  Aleutian  Chain  by  the  29th  of  July, 
and  made  the  Island  of  St.  Lawrence  on  the  11th  of 
August,  from  whence  I  shaped  a  course  for  Cape  Lis- 
burne, in  anticipation  of  falling  in  with  the  Herald  or 


1                    IH 

1           11 

'  1 

1 

1 

r, 

1 

.     1 

1 

1 

'     1 
1 

'.  1   ' 

ill 

1 1 


In, 


''If' 
-I' 


II 


i        ' 

I    i 


298 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


HI 


the  Plo'"<^r.  Not,  however,  seeing  either  of  these  vea* 
eele,  a.  ,.nding  nothing  deposited  on  shore,  I  went  on 
to  Wainwright  Inlet,  the  last  rendezvous  appointed. 
Here  we  communicated  on  the  15th,  and  being  alike 
unsuccessful  in  obtaining  any  information,  I  stood  to 
the  north,  made  the  ice  following  morning,  and  readied 
the  latitude  72°  40'  N.  in  the  meridian  of  159°  30'  W., 
without  serious  obstruction.  Here,  however,  the  pack 
became  so  close  that  it  was  impossible  to  make  way  in 
any  direction  except  to  the  southward.  Having  extri- 
cated ourselves  by  noon  on  the  19th,  we  continued  to 
coast  along  the  edge  of  the  main  body,  which  took  a 
southeasterly  trend,  running  through  the  loose  streams, 
so  as  not  to  lose  sight  of  tight  pack.  At  4  a.  m.  on  the 
20th  we  were  in  the  meridian  of  Point  Barrow,  and 
■"wenty-eight  miles  to  the  north  of  it,  when  we  found 
open  water  to  the  N.  E.,  in  which  we  sailed,  without 
losing  sight  of  the  ice  to  the  north  until  the  morning 
of  the  21st,  when  we  were  obstructed  by  a  heavy  bar- 
rier trending  to  the  southwest.  A  thick  fog  coming  on, 
we  made  a  board  to  the  north,  in  order  to  feel  the  pack 
edge  in  the  upper  part  of  the  bight,  and  not  to  leav^ 
any  part  unexj  ^ored.  Having  satisfied  myself  that  no 
opening  existed  .a  this  dir'^-ction,  we  bore  away  to  tlie 
south,  running  through  heavy  floes  closely  packed,  and 
pushing  to  the  eastward  when  an  opportunity  ofiered. 
In  this,  however,  we  were  unsuccessful,  being  com- 
pelled to  pursue  a  westerly  course,  the  floes  being  very 
heavy  and  hummocky.  By  8  p.  m.  we  were  within 
thirty  miles  of  the  land,  and  having  clear  weather, 
could  see  the  ice  closely  packed  to  the  south  that  lefc 
no  doubt  in  ray  mind  that  a  stop  was  put  to  our  pro- 
ceeding in  this  direction,  by  the  ice  butting  so  close  on 
tlie  shoal  coast  as  to  leave  no  chance  that  our  progress 
along  it  would  justify  the  attempt  to  reach  Cape  Bath- 
urst,  a  distance  of  570  miles,  during  the  remaining 
portion  of  this  season;  and  finding  this  opinion  was 
coincided  in  by  those  officers  on  board  qualified  to 
form  an  opinion  on  the  subject,  I  determined  to  lose 
no  time  in  communicating  with  Point  Barrow,  but  to 


attei 
lane 
woul 
fore 
ing  t 
than 
we  to 
up,  u 
sudd 
lowed 
in  lat 
trend 
endea 
dition 
warpe 
direct] 
say,  w 
we  enl 
thick  \ 
lane. 
28°,  an 
accom] 
Lordsh 
Point  ] 
bottle  ( 
that  it 
Harbor 
with  th 
enablin 
pany  b' 
found  h 
having  < 
take  th: 
to  the  c] 
duced  tl 
the  ship 
opportui 
leased  fj 
irregulai 
the  wind 


e  vea* 

enton 

tinted. 

alike 

)0d    tf! 

sached 
0'  W., 
3  pack 
way  in 
J  extri- 
ued  to 
took  a 
reams, 
on  the 
iw,  and 
3  found 
»vitliout 
lorning 
vy  bar- 
ling on, 
le  pack 
,0  leaY3 
hat  no 
to  the 
d,  and 
jflfiered. 
com- 
ig  very 
within 
eather, 
lat  left 
ur  pro- 
lose  on 
ogress 
Bath- 
aining 
n  was 
ed  to 
Ito  lose 
Ibut  to 


i 


SECOND  TRIP  OF  ENTERPRISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR.     299 

attempt  the  passage  further  north,  in  hopes  that  the 
lane  of  water  seen  last  year  by  the  Herald  and  Plover 
would  afford  me  an  opening  to  the  eastward.  I  there- 
fore reluctantly  proceeded  again  to  the  west,  and  turn- 
ing the  pack  edge  fifteen  miles  further  to  the  SDuth 
than  it  was  on  the  day  after  we  left  Wainwright  Inlet, 
we  followed  the  edge  of  a  loose  pack  greatly  broken 
up,  until  we  reached  163°  W.  long.,  when  It  took  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  north,  in  which  direction  we  fol- 
lowed it  until  the  morning  of  the  27th,  when  we  were 
in  latitude  73°  20',  and  found  the  pack  to  the  westward 
trending  southerly.  I  therefore  plied  to  the  eastward, 
endeavoring  to  make  way,  but  such  was  its  close  con- 
dition that  we  could  not  work,  although  we  might  have 
warped  through,  had  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  that 
direction  afforded  us  any  hope  ;  but  this,  I  am  sorry  to 
say,  was  not  the  case,  and,  on  the  contrary,  the  further 
we  entered,  the  larger  the  floes  became,  leaving  us,  in 
thick  weather,  often  in  great  difficulty  where  to  find  a 
lane.  On  the  29th  the  thermometer  having  fallen  to 
28°,  and  there  being  no  prospect  of  our  being  able  to 
accomplish  any  thing  toward  the  fulfillment  of  their 
Lordships'  instructions  this  season,  I  bore  away  for 
Point  Hope,  where  I  arrived  on  the  31st,  and  found  a 
bottle  deposited  by  the  Herald,  which  informed  me 
that  it  was  intended  to  place  the  Plover  in  Grantley 
Harbor  this  season.  I  accordingly  proceeded  thither, 
with  the  view  of  taking  her  place  for  the  winter,  and 
enabling  Commander  Moore  to  recruit  his  ship's  com- 
pany by  going  to  the  southward.  On  my  ariival  I 
found  her  inside,  preparing  her  winter  quarters,  and 
having  examined  and  buoyed  the  bar,  I  attempted  to 
take  this  vessel  inside,  but  failed  in  doing  so,  owing 
to  the  change  of  wind  from  south  to  north  having  re- 
duced the  depth  of  water  four  feet,  and  had  to  relieve 
the  ship  of  100  tons,  which  was  quickly  done  by  the 
opportune  arrival  of  the  Herald,  before  she  was  re- 
leased from  a  very  critical  position.  The  tides  being 
irregular,  the  rise  and  fall  depending  principally  on 
the  wind,  and  that  wind  which  occasions  the  highest 

19  M 


■ji  I 


>»n» 


in 


?!' 


I  II 


I  ! 


.1  k 


:•;' 


i..  !}•' 


1 


i  ':■ 


m 


.1^!    \. 


j,  Ki 


300 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


water  producing  a  swell  on  the  bar,  it  became  a  ques- 
tion whether  a  considerable  portion  of  the  ensuing 
season  might  not  be  lost  in  getting  the  ship  out  of 
Grantley  Harbor ;  and  on  consulting  Captains  Kellet 
and  Moore,  finding  it  to  be  their  opinion,  founded  on 
the  experience  of  two  years,  that  the  whalers  coiniiK^ 
from  the  south  pass  through  the  Strait  early  in  June 
whereas  the  harbors  are  blocked  until  the  middle  of 
July,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  I  shall  better 
perform  the  important  duty  confided  in  me  by  return- 
ing to  the  south,  and  replenishing  my  provisions,  in- 
stead of  wintering  on  the  Asiatic  Shore,  where  there 
is  not  a  prospect  of  our  being  of  the  slightest  use  to 
the  missing  expedition.  It  is  therefore  my  intention 
to  proceed  to  Hong  Kong,  it  being  nearer  than  Valpa- 
raiso, and  the  cold  season  having  set  in,  my  stores  and 
provisions  will  not  be  exposed  to  the  heat  of  a  double 
passage  through  the  tropics ;  and  as  I  shall  not  leave 
until  the  Ist  of  April,  1  may  receive  any  further  in- 
structions their  Lordships  may  please  to  communicate. 

"The  Plover  has  been  stored  and  provisioned,  and 
such  of  her  crew  as  are  not  in  a  fit  state  to  contend 
with  the  rigor  of  a  further  stay  in  these  latitudes  have 
bee\.  removed,  and  replaced  by  Captain  Kellet,  and  the 
])aragraph8  referring  to  her  in  my  instructions  fulfilled 

"I  have  directed  Commander  Moore  to  communi- 
cate annually  with  an  Island  in  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  in 
latitude  65°  38'  N.,  and  longitude  170''  43'  W.,  which 
is  much  resorted  to  by  the  whalers,  and  where  any 
communication  their  Lordships  may  be  pleased  to  send 
may  be  deposited  by  them,  as  they  are  not  in  the 
habit  of  cruising  on  this  side  of  the  Strait;  and  I  have 
requested  Captain  Kellet  to  forward  to  the  Admiralty 
all  the  information  on  this  head  he  may  obtain  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands. 

"  It  is  my  intention  to  proceed  again  to  the  north, 
and  remain  in  the  most  eligible  position  for  afibrding 
assistance  to  the  Investigator,  which  vessel,  having 
been  favored  with  a  surprising  passage  from  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  was  fallen  in  with  by  the  Herald  on  the 


'^Eer  Ma 

latitud 

Sir, —  2 

Collinson, 

yfhiah  I  i 

tope  of  m 

being  deta 

Sound,  it  i, 

be  made  tc 

ture  to  ho 


dl8t  of    Jli]y^  fyff  p    .         TT 


V""  °°  "o  Wii  be  exposed  tn  til-  .  "-'"Pe  ^atbnrst 
forced  on  a  shoal  BZTeVnd\V'^'"J'^''tkkofS 
boa^s  I  shall  not  fo,;4:"t"S  ^'.^  '^"^^  '°  '^^^ 
ot  roint  Hope  until  the  seMon^  ^  *^  northward 
to.ne„re  their  having  taCunfi.'- *^':  ^''^«°eed  ^ 
for  th,g  gg^g^^  b    aKen  np  their  winter  quarters 

J-  nave  received  fm  m 

pany  that  assistance  a^?  a^erifvT  .t""^  ^''■P'«  <«>«- 
of  their  duty,  which  tI.o^  uP  •'^"^  ^^^  Performanf.« 
engaged  mni  Se  and  tt'^  "''T  '"  ^iieh  we  are 
port  that  (under  the'  blessinr^f^r*  «?''-sfaction  to  r^ 
means  the  rlord<ilimo  i       ^  ^'  ®od)  owin</  to  thL 

and  provisions?  t'rrpSlt-r 

tie  sick  list  notwithstandinrf?    ?  ^'thont  a  man  oi 

our  voyage.  ""^^'anding  the  lengthened  period  of 

"Ihave,  &c., 
"The  Secretary  of  tfcZirahyT°"'  ^''P'»»- 


1-:'^ 


:-if 


u 


I  i 

i 

I 

j  i 
I 

i 


\,:h 


j^hich  I  incloseot  ;r"eed"';r^""'\H"g.  fa  Z'S^ 
hope  of  meeting  him  in  S  '?  •^'P''  -Lisburne  in  the 
being  detained  t  day  ortwo  bvZ'^,"'  ^'.  «"««» 

'-  -  hope  that  even-fc-Zt-^Kcd 


'  r 


!i 


'J 


302 


PROGRESS   OF  AKCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


■i ,'  1 


,ji:*< 


% 

k 
w 

Mi 


•hI. 


stances  I  shall  be  so  fortunate  as  to  accomplish  it  ere 
the  Enterprise  will  have  rounded  that  cape,  from  hor 
superior  sailing,  she  hitherto  having  beaten  us  by  eight 
days  to  Cape  virgins,  and  from  Magellan  Strait  to  Oahu 
six.  It  is,  therefore,  under  the  probable  case  that  tliis 
vessel  may  form  a  detached  part  of  the  expedition  that 
I  feel  it  my  duty  to  state,  for  the  information  of  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  the  course 
which,  under  such  a  contingency,  I  shall  endeavor  to 
pursue,  and  have  to  request  that  you  will  lay  the  same 
oefore  their  Lordships. 

"  1.  After  passing  Cape  Lisburne,  it  is  my  intention 
to  keep  in  the  open  water,  which,  from  the  different 
reports  that  I  have  read,  appears  about  this  season  of 
the  year  to  make  between  the  American  coast  and  the 
main  pack  as  far  to  the  northward  as  the  130th  meridian, 
unless  a  favorable  opening  should  earlier  appear  in  the 
ice,  which  would  lead  me  to  infer  that  I  might  push 
more  directly  for  Banks'  Land,  which  I  think  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  to  thoroughly  examine.  In  the  event 
of  thus  far  succeeding,  and  tiie  season  continuing  favor- 
able for  further  operations,  it  would  bo  my  anxious 
desire  to  get  to  the  northward  of  Melville  Island,  and 
resume  our  search  along  its  shores  and  the  islands  adja- 
cent as  long  as  the  navigation  can  be  carried  on,  and 
then  secure  for  the  winter  in  the  most  eligible  position 
which  oiFers. 

"  2.  In  the  ensuing  spring,  as  soon  as  it  is  practicable 
for  traveling  parties  to  start,  I  should  dispatch  as  many 
as  the  state  of  the  crew  will  admit  of  in  different  direc- 
tions, each  being  provided  with  forty  days'  provisions, 
with  directions  to  examine  minutely  all  bays,  inlet:3  and 
islands  toward  the  northeast,  ascending  occasionally 
some  of  the  highest  points  of  land,  so  as  to  be  enabled 
to  obtain  extended  views,  being  particularly  cautious  in 
their  advance  to  observe  any  indication  of  a  break  up  in 
the  ice,  so  that  their  return  to  the  ship  may  be  effected 
without  hazard,  even  before  the  expenditure  of  theii 
provisions  would  otherwise  render  it  necessary.- 

"  3.  Supposing  the  parties  to  have  returned?  without 


obta 

Hl)ei 

be  t( 

that 

scare 

shou 

Capt 

I  sho 

tion 

that 

point 

cerni 

then 

painfi 

all  hu 

theref 

duty, 

endea 

ject  nj 

tion,  I 

no  app 

safety 

three  j 

from  tl 

much  c 

of  four 

ing  par 

which  -1 

"  It  ^ 

oflbcts  ( 

which  \ 

in  the  i] 

are  in  a 

and  evi 

disposit 

"5.  S 

com  pas? 

doubt  w 

deem  it 


it  ere 
tn  her 

'  eight 
•  Oahu 
at  this 
)n  that 
of  the 
course 
Ivor  to 
e  same 

tention 
ifterent 
ison  of 
Liid  the 
pridian, 
r  in  the 
it  push 
3  of  the 
le  event 
g  favor- 
anxious 
nd,  and 
adja- 
on,  and 
position 

ticable 
8  many 
t  direc- 
visions, 
ets  and 
ionally 
inabled 
ious  in 
k  up  in 
ifected 
f  tlieii 

dthout 


I 


SECOND  TRIP  OF  ENTEKPlilSE  AND  INVESTIGATOR.     303 

obtaining  any  clue  of  the  al)8ent  ships,  and  the  vessel 
liberated  about  the  1st  of  Auo-ust,  my  object  wouhl  then 
be  to  piisli  on  toward  AVeliin<>tuii  Inlet,  assuming  that 
that  channel  communicates  witli  tlie  Pohir  Sea,  and 
search  both  its  shores,  unless  in  doing  so  some  indication 
should  be  met  with  to  show  that  parties  from  any  of 
Captain  Austin's  vessels  had  previously  done  so,  when 
1  should  return,  and  endeavor  to  penetrate  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Jones'  Sound,  carefully  examining  every  place 
that  was  practicable.  Should  our  efforts  to  reach  this 
point  be  successful,  and  in  the  route  no  traces  are  dis- 
cernible of  the  long  missing  expedition,  I  should  not 
then  be  enabled  longer  to  divest  myself  of  the  feelings, 
painful  as  it  must  be  to  arrive  at  such  a  conclusion,  that 
all  human  aid  would  then  be  perfectly  unavailing ;  and 
therefore,  under  such  a  conviction,  1  would  think  it  my 
duty,  if  possible,  to  return  to  England,  or  at  all  events 
endeav(ii'  to  reach  some  port  that  would  insure  that  ob- 
ject upon  the  following  year. 

"  4.  In  the  event  of  this  being  our  last  communica- 
tion, I  would  request  you  to  assure  their  lordships  that 
no  apprehensions  whatever  need  be  entertained  of  our 
safety  until  the  autumn  of  1854,  as  w^o  have  on  board 
three  years  of  all  species  of  provisions,  commencing 
from  the  1st  of  8e])tember  proximo,  which,  without 
much  d(>privation,  may  be  made  to  extend  over  a  period 
of  four  years  ;  moreover,  whatever  is  killed  by  the  hunt- 
ing parties,  I  intend  to  issue  in  lieu  of  the  usual  rations, 
which  will  still  further  protract  our  resources. 

"  It  gives  mo  p-i-eat  pleasure  to  say  that  the  good 
effects  of  the  fruit  and  vegetables,  (a  large  quantity  of 
wiiich  w^e  took  on  board  at  Oahu,)  are  very  perceptible 
in  the  increased  vigor  of  the  men,  who  at  this  moment 
are  in  as  excellent  condition  as  it  is  possible  to  desire, 
and  evince  a  spirit  of  confidence  and  a  clieerfulness  of 
disposition  which  are  beyond  all  appreciation. 

"  5.  Should  difficulties  apparently  insurmountable  en- 
compass our  pi'ogress,  so  as  to  render  it  a  matter  of 
doubt  whether  the  vessel  could  be  extricated,  I  should 
deem  it  expedient  in  that  case  not  to  hazard  the  lives 


•^ 


1^  : 
'  1 1 


1/1 


,  II 


I     1  : 


I 


!i 


I 


!Hi 


it 


•f-'\U 


\   . 


'    :  I' 

1    . 


mj 


\i  > 


I:    ■ 

I- 

ib;    ,        i 


i     ■ 


m 


804 


prookp:s8  op  arctic  discovery. 


in 

I'll 


m 


•.»5 


'r 
% 


.1 


of  those  intrusted  to  my  charge  after  the  winter  of  1852, 
but  in  the  ensuing  spring  quit  the  vessel  with  sledges 
and  bouts,  and  make  the  best  of  our  way  either'  to 
Pond's  Bay,  Leopold  Harbor,  the  Mackenzie,  or  for 
whalers,  according  to  circumstances. 

"Finally.  In  this  letter  I  have  endeavored  to  give  an 
outline  of  what  I  wish  to  accomplish,  (and  what,  under 
moderately  favorable  seasons,  appears  to  me  attainable,) 
the  carrying  out  of  which,  however,  not  resting  upon 
human  exertions,  it  is  impossible  even  to  surmise  if  any, 
or  what,  portion  may  be  successful.  But  my  object  in 
addressing  you  is  to  place  their  Lordships  in  possession 
of  my  intentions  up  to  the  latest  period,  so  far  as  possi- 
ble, to  relieve  their  minds  from  any  unnecessary  anxiety 
as  to  our  fate  ;  and  having  done  this,  a  duty  which  is 
incumbent  from  tlie  deej)  sympathy  expressed  by  their 
Lordships,  and  participated  in  by  all  classes  of  our 
countrymen,  in  the  interesting  object  of  this  expedition, 
I  have  only  to  add,  that  with  the  ample  resources  which 
a  beneficent  government  and  a  generous  country  have 
placed  at  our  disposal,  (not  any  thing  that  can  add  to 
our  comfort  being  wanting,)  we  enter  upon  this  distin- 
guished service  with  a  firm  determination  to  carry  out, 
as  far  as  in  our  feeble  strength  we  are  permitted,  their 
benevolent  intentions. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"EoBEKT  M'Clure,  Commander." 


"jETe/*  Majesty's  ship  *•  Enterprise^ 
''Oahu^June  29,1850. 

"  Memorandum. — As  soon  as  Her  Majesty's  ship  under 
your  command  is  fully  complete  with  provisions,  fuel, 
and  water,  you  will  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  Cape 
Lisburne,  keeping  a  good  look-out  for  the  Herald,  or 
casks,  and  firing  guns  in  foggy  weather,  after  passing 
Lawrence  Bay.  The  whalers  also  may  afford  you  infor- 
mation of  our  progress. 

"  Should  you  obtain  no  intelligence,  you  will  under- 
gtand  that  I  intend  to  make  the  pack  close  to  the  Ameri- 


s4 


er. 


» 


[under 
,,  fuel, 

Cape 
lid,  or 

issing 
I  infor- 

mder- 
Lineri- 


DI«1'ATCUKS  Fitl>M  E^TEKhlilSE  AND  LX  V  K«i  liGA'i'OB.      305 

can  shore,  and  pursue  tbc  first  favoial>le  opening  west 
<)''  the  Coast  stream,  pressing-  forward  toward  MclvilJ"! 
Mand.     In  the  event  of  meeting  land,  it  is  most  probr 
ble  that  I  would  pursue  the  southern  shore,  but  conspit 
uous  marks  will  be  erected,  if  practicable,  and  inform* 
tion  buried  at  a  ten-foot  radius. 

"  As  it  is  necessary  to  be  prepared  for  the  contin 
gency  of  your  not  being  able  to  follow  by  the  ice  clos 
ing  m,  or  the  severity  of  the  weather,  you  will  in  that 
case  keep  the  Investi^^ator  as  close  to  the  edge  of  the 
pack  as  is  consistent  with  her  safety,  and  remain  there 
until  the  season  compels  you  to  depart,  when  you  will 
look  into  Kotzebue  Sound  for  the  Plover,  or  informa- 
tion regarding  her  position  ;  and  having  dejDosited  un- 
der her  charge  a  twelve  month's  provisions,  you  will 
jH'oceed  to  Valparaiso,  replenish,  and  return  to  the 
Strait,  bearing  in  mind  that  the  months  of  June  and 
July  are  the  most  favorable. 

"  A  letter  from  the  hydrographer  relative  to  the  vari- 
ation of  the  compass  is  annexed  ;  and  you  will  bear  in 
mind  that  the  value  of  these  observations  will  he  greatly 
enhanced  by  obtaining  the  variation  with  the  ship's 
head  at  every  second  or  fourth  point  round  the  com- 
pass occasionally,  and  she  should  be  swung  for  devia- 
tion in  harbor  as  often  as  opportunity  may  offer. 

"  Should  you  not  find  the  rlover,  or  that  any  casualty 
has  happened  to  render  her  inefficient  as  a  defot,  you 
will  take  her  place  ;  and  if,  (as  Captain  Kellett  sup- 
poses,) Kotzebue  Sound  has  proved  too  exposed  for  a 
winter  harbor,  you  will  proceed  to  Grantley  Harbor, 
leaving  a  notice  to  that  effect  on  Chamisso  Island. 
The  attention  of  your  officers  is  to  be  called,  and  you 
will  read  to  your  ship's  company,  the  remarks  of  Sir 
J.  Richardson  concerning  the  communication  with  the 
Esquimaux,  contained  in  the  arctic  report  received  at 
Plymouth. 

"  Your  operations  in  the  season  1851,  cannot  be 
guided  by  me,  nor  is  there  any  occasion  to  urge  you  to 
proceed  to  the  northeast ;  yet  it  will  be  highly  desir- 
able, previous  to  entering  the  pack,  that  you  completed 


•"m 


lii 


iii 

!  I 


I   I 


'  I' 


!,ir 


'i«jj 


1 


i" 


r't 


. 


Hi 


lit 
I 


ll'^: 


I      'SI 


■|ii 


k    , 


i-i 


!lt 


^ 


I 


Ktti , 
I  !• 


m'\ 


306 


PU0GKKS8    OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVICIJY. 


Mi 


'jt: 


provisions  from  whalers,  find  obtained  as  miioh  roindocr 
meat  as  possible.  Captain  Kellett's  narrative  will  point 
out  where  the  latter  is  to  be  had  in  most  abuii<hiiice, 
and  where  coal  can  be  picked  up  on  the  hcAwh  ;  hut 
husband  the  latter  article  during  tlio  winter,  by  u.siu..' 
all  the  drift-wood  in  your  power. 

"  In  the  event  of  leaving  the  Strait  this  season,  you 
will  take  any  weak  or  sickly  men  out  of  the  Pluvor, 
and  replace  them  from  your  crewn,  affording  Com- 
mander Moore  all  the  assistance  in  your  power,  und 
leaving  with  him  Mr.  Miertsching,  the  interpreter  ;  in- 
structions with  regard  to  whose  accommodations  you 
have  received,  and  will  convey  to  the  captain  of  the 
Plover.  "Richard  Collinson. 

"  To  Commander  JiPGlure^  of  her 
Majesty's  ship  *  Investigator.'' 

"  Should  it  be  the  opinion  of  Commander  Moore  that 
the  services  of  the  Investigator's  ship's  company  in  ex- 
ploring parties  during  the  spring  would  be  attended 
with  material  benefit  to  the  object  of  the  expedition, 
he  will,  notwithstanding  these  orders,  detain  you  for 
that  purpose  ;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  your  effi- 
ciency as  a  sailing  vessel  is  not  crippled  by  the  parties 
no*  returning  in  time  for  the  opening  of  the  sea. 

"  R.  C." 


"  Her  Majesti/s  discovery  ship  '  Investigator^^  July 
28,  1850.  Kotzebue  Sound,  latitude  m^"  54'  iV'., 
longit^- deles'"  W. 

"  Sir, —  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  in- 
formation of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admi- 
ralty, that  to  this  date  we  have  had  a  most  excellont 
run.  Upon  getting  clear  of  Oahu,  on  the  morning  of 
the  5th,  we  sliaped  a  course  direct  for  the  Aleutian 
group,  passing  them  in  172°  40'  W.,  upon  the  evenino^ 
of  the  20th  ;  continued  our  course  with  a  fine  south- 
easterly breeze,  but  extremely  thick  and  foggy  weather, 
(which  retarded  the  best  of  our  way  being  made.)  Got 
fairly  out  of  Behring's  Strait  upon  the  evening  of  the 


1  floor 

[xtiiit, 

;  l)iit 
ii.siii 


n 


I,  yon 
lovor, 
C(»m- 
r,  und 
r ;  in- 
s  you 
of  the 

SON. 


re  that 
in  ex- 
tended 
dition, 
ou  tor 
ur  effi- 
arties 

C." 

July 

cbe  in- 
.duii- 
»ellent 
|ng  of 
iutian 
[■enincj 
jonth- 
[ather, 
Got 
)f  the 


VOYAGK   OF   THE    I'LOVKH,  KTO. 


307 


27th.  and  are  now  in  a  fair  wav  of  realizinij  tlieir  Lord- 
sliipK'  expectations  of  reacliinji;  the  ice  by  tlie  l)e<::in- 
mufj;  of  Angnst,  our  prt)t;'i'('>s  hciiii^  advanced  hy  tlio 
favorable  circnnistances  i.>f  a  line  southerly  wind  and 
tolerably  clear  weather.  Tiie  latter  we  luive  known 
nothing  of  since  the  IDth,  which,  1  can  assure  yon,  ren- 
dered the  navigation  amonn^  the  islands  a  subject  of 
much  and  deep  anxiety,  seldom  having  a  horizon  above 
480  yards,  that  jnst  enabled  the  dark  outline  of  the  land 
to  be  observed  and  avoided. 

"  It  is  with  much  satisfaction  that  I  report  the  good 
qualities  of  this  vessel,  having  well  tried  her  in  the 
heavy  gales  experienced  during  five  weeks  oflt*  ("ape 
Horn,  and  in  moderate  weather  nong  the  intricate 
navigation  of  these  islands,  where  so  much  depended 
upon  her  quick  obedience  to  the  helm,  although  laden 
with  every  species  of  stores  and  provisions  for  upward 
of  three  years.  From  these  circumstances  I  am,  there- 
fore, fully  satisfied  she  is  as  thoroughly  adapted  for  this 
service  as  could  be  reasonably  wished. 

"  I  have  not  seen  any  thing  of  the  Enterprise,  nor  is 
it  my  intention  to  lose  a  moment  by  waiting  off  Cape 
Lisburne,  but.  shall  use  my  best  endeavors  to  carry  out 
the  intentions  contained  in  my  letter  of  the  20th,  of 
which  I  earnestly  trust  their  Lordships  will  approve. 

"  I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  state  that  the  whole  crew 
are  in  excellent  health  and  spirits,  and  every  thing  as 
satisfactory  as  it  is  possible  to  desire. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"  Robert  M'Cluee,  Commander. 

"  The  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty.''^ 

YoYAGE  of  H.  M.  S.  "  Plover,"  and  Boat  Expeditions 
UNDER  Commander  Pullen,  1848-51. 

In  the  copy  of  the  instructions  issued  f'-om  the  Ad- 
miralty to  Lieutenant,  (now  Commander,)  Moore,  of 
the  Plover,  dated  3d  of  January,  1848,  he  was  directed 
to  make  the  best  of  his  way  to  Petropaulowski,  touch- 
ing at  Panama,  where  she  was  to  be  joi-ned  by  II.  M. 


I     lit 


I     I 


'  I,    ll 


!:; 


1 1 


.  1 ,  J, 


u 


iii, 


V 


m 


I'll 


I     '  1 


808 


PBOGUE88   OF   AliCrno   DI800VEKY. 


■  ".,(■1 


l| 


S.  lloriild,  and  afterward  both  vessels  were  to  proceed 
to  Belii'iiig's  Strait,  whore  tiiey  were  expected  to  arrive 
ahout  tiie  leit  of  July,  and  then  push  along  the  Ameri- 
can coast,  as  far  as  possible,  consistent  with  the  cer- 
tainty of  preventing  the  ships  being  beset  by  the  ice. 
The  tlover  was  tlien  to  be  secured  for  the  winter  in 
some  safe  and  convenient  port  from  whence  boat  par- 
ties might  be  dispatched,  and  tlio  Herald  was  to  return 
and  transmit,  via  Panama,  any  intelligence  necessary? 
to  England.  Great  caution  was  ordered  to  bo  observed 
in  communicating  with  the  natives  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Kotzebue  Sound,  should  that  quarter  be  visited,  aa 
the  people  in  that  part  of  the  country  differ  in  charac- 
ter from  the  ordinary  Esquimaux,  in  being  compara- 
tively a  fierce,  agile,  and  suspicious  race,  well  armed 
with  knives,  tfec,  for  offense,  and  prone  to  attack. 
They  were  also  ordered  to  take  interpreters  or  guides 
from  a  small  factory  of  the  Russian-American  Company 
in  Norton  Sound. 

The  Plover  was  safely  ensconced  for  the  winter  of 
1849-50  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  after  the  termination  of  a 
hard  season's  work.  She  had,  conjointly  with  the  Her- 
ald, discovered  to  the  north  of  fiehring's  Strait,  two 
islands,  and  several  apparently  disconnected  patches 
of  very  elevated  ground.  Lieut.  Pullen  had  previously 
quitted  her  off  Wainwr'ight  Inlet,  with  four  boats,  for 
tne  purpose  of  prosecuting  his  adventurous  voyage 
along  the  coast  to  the  moutli  of  the  Mackenzie  River, 
where  he  arrived  safely  on  the  26th  of  August,  after  a 
perilous  navigation  of  thirty-two  days,  but  had  obtained 
no  clue  or  intelligence  regarding  the  prime  object  of  his 
expedition.  At  a  later  date  he  encountered  at  Fort 
Simpson,  higher  up  the  river,  Dr.  Rae,  and  gathered 
from  tha*".  gentleman  that  the  party  led  by  him  down 
the  Coppermine,  with  the  view  of  crossing  over  to  Yic 
toria  or  "VVoUaston  Land,  had,  owing  to  the  unusual 
difficulties  created  by  the  more  than  customary  rigor  of 
the  season,  met  with  entire  failure  ;  the  farthest  point 
attained  being  Cape  Krusenstern. 

Lieut.  Pullen  is  occupied  during  the  present  year  in 


a 

al.l 

bel 

iuj 

is 

11 
lettl 
J^al 
tai]J 
troii 
quiij 
wat( 
Mac 
IJud 


VOYAGK   OP  THE   TLOVER,  ETC. 


309 


If^,,  '\ 


two 
itches 
jioasly 
ts,  for 
)yage 
liver, 
Ifter  a 
lained 
)f  his 
Fort 
bered 
flown 
Yic 
isual 
lor  of 
)oini 

lar  in 


?   ■ 


*4 


a  journ^'y  frointlie  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  eastward, 
uh)n*j:  the  arctic  coast,  as  far  an  Ca|)e  IJatliurst,  and  tliis 
being  successfully  accouiplisiied,  he  Durnuses  atteniut- 
in<^  to  cross  the  intervening  space  to  lianks'  Land,  lie 
is  furnished  with  two  boats,  botii  open. 

Lieut.  AV.  IL  Hooper,  one  of  the  party,  in  a  recent 
letter  to  his  father  in  London,  writing  from  Great  Slave 
Lake,  nnder  date  June  27,  1850,  gives  some  further  de- 
tails of  their  proceedings.  Having  had  considerable 
trouble  and  a  slight  skirmish  with  some  parties  of  Es- 
quimaux, thev  were  oblio^ed  to  be  continually  on  the 
watch.  At  tlie  end  of  August,  the  party  entered  the 
Mackenzie  liiver,  and  in  a  few  days  reached  one  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Comj)any'8  posts  on  the  Peel  lliver,  a 
branch  of  the  Mackenzie,  where  Commander  Pullen 
left  Lieut.  Hooper  and  half  the  party  to  winter,  while 
he  proceeded  farther  up  the  river  to  a  more  important 
post  at  Fort  Simpson.  After  renuiining  at  Peel's  River 
station  about  a  fortnight,  Mr.  Hooper  found  that  his 
party  could  not  be  maintained  throughout  the  winter 
there,  and  in  consequence  determined  on  following 
Capt.  Pullen,  but  was  only  able  to  reach  Fort  Norman, 
one  of  his  party  being  frost-bitten  on  the  journey. 
They  thence  made  their  way  across  to  Great  Bear  Lake, 
where  they  passed  the  winter,  subsisting  on  lish  and 
water.  Dr.  Kae  arrived  there  as  soon  as  the  ice  broke 
up,  and  the  party  proceeded  with  him  to  Fort  Simpson. 

On  the  20th  of  June,  Commander  Pullen  and  all  his 
party  left  with  the  company's  servants,  and  the  stock  of 
furs,  on  their  way  to  the  sea,  to  embark  for  England, 
when  they  were  met,  on  the  25th,  by  a  canoe  with  Ad- 
miralty dispatches,  which  caused  them  to  retrace  their 
steps  ;  and  they  are  now  on  their  route  by  the  Great 
Slave  Lake  to  Fort  Simpson,  and  down  the  Mackenzie 
once  more,  to  the  Polar  Sea,  in  search  of  Sir  John 
Franklin. 

"  However  grieving,"  Lieut.  Hooper  adds,  "  it  is  to 
be  disappointed  of  returning  home,  yet  I  am  neverthe- 
less delighted  to  go  again,  and  think  that  we  do  not 
hopelessly  undertake  another  search,  since  our  intended 


I    ) 


ill 

I 

I 


1 1] 


•  i 


i 


( 

■  i-'l- 

1  i- 

r    ' 

tl 

1. 

r 


810 


I'HOORKSS    OF    AUCTIO   DISCOVKUY. 


(lircotion  is  coTisidcnMl  tlio  most  ])rol>al>l(»  cliannol  fox 
iiiidinjjj  tho  missini^  sliips  or  crcwM.  Wi'  «jjo  down  tho 
^hicla'iizic,  Jiloiii^  th«  cojist  t'jistwanl  t<>  IN.iut  Uatliuist, 
unci  tlu'iHu;  f^triki^  across  to  Wolhihtoii  nr  l^anlvs'  Land. 
TIk^  H('aso?j  will,  of  C'Diir.-o,  nuudi  influfnct'oiir  j)nK'('('d. 
\n<fH  ;  hilt  wo  hIiuII  lu'obaldy  ivtiirn  up  tlic  liitlicrto 
luu'Xplort'd  river  wliudi  runs  into  tlio  Arctic  ()ci>aii 
from  Jiivcrpool  Bay,  between  tho  Coi)permine  and 
Mjickcnzio." 

The  lutcHt  official  dispatch  from  Commander  Pullon 
ifl  dated  (treat  Slave  Lake,  June  28tli.  He  liad  hecii 
8to)>ped  by  the  ice,  and  intended  returniii".;  to  Fort 
Simpson  on  the  21)th.  One  of  his  l)outs  was  ho  hattei-iMl 
about  as  to  ])e  ])erfcctly  useless  ;  he  intended  ))at('liiii'.^' 
np  the  other,  and  was  also  to  receive  a  new  hoiit  Ix-- 
Ion<2jin«jj  to  the  Hudson's  .l>ay  Coini)any,  from  Fort 
Simpson.  He  had  dismissed  two  of  his  ])arty,  as  tluy 
were  both  suftering  from  bad  health,  but  proposed  cn- 
gaginc^,  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  two  Hare  Indians  as  hunt- 
ers and  guides,  one  of  whom  had  accompanied  I^Fessrs. 
Dease  and  Simpson  on  their  trips  of  discovery  in  1S38 
and  1839.  This  would  augment  the  party  to  seventeen 
persons  in  all. 

"  M}''  present  intentions,"  he  says,  "  are  to  proceed 
down  the  Mackenzie,  along  the  coast,  to  Caj^e  Bathurst, 
and  then  strike  across  for  Banks'  Land  ;  my  operations 
must  then,  of  course  be  guided  by  circumstances,  but  I 
shall  strenuously  endeavor  to  search  along  all  coasts  in 
that  direction  as  far  and  as  late  as  I  can  with  safety 
venture  ;  returning,  if  possible,  by  the  Mackenzie,  or 
by  the  Beghoola,  which  the  Indians  speak  of  as  beina: 
navigable,  as  its  head  waters  are,  (according  to  S  r  John 
Richardson,)  only  a  nine-days'  passage  froai  Fort  Good 
Hope  ;  to  meet  which,  or  a  si?nilar  contingency,  I  take 
snow  shoes  and  sledges,  c^c. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  beg  to  assni'e  th'Mr  Lordships  of 
my  earnest  determination  to  carry  out  their  views  to 
the  utmost  of  my  ability,  being  confident,  fi'om  the 
eagerness  of  the  party,  that  no  pains  will  be  spared,  no 
necessary  labor  avoided,  and,  by  God's  blessing,  we 


; 


t' 


hoi 

ga 

na 

nial 


m 


•ocecd 

:hurst, 

iations 

but  I 

Lsts  in 
safety 
;ie,  or 
[Leing 
Jolin 

take 

,  of 


i 


VOYAGE   OF  THE    PLOVER,    ETC. 


3H 


hope  to  be  fluccoHHtul  in(liHCov(u*iii<ij  floinotidinnjfl  of  our 
galliitit  cuJintryineii,  or  evon  in  restoring  tlieiu  to  their 
iiativo  bind  and  anxious  relatives." 

Mr.  Cliief  Factor  Rao  was  al)Out  to  follow  Com- 
mander I'ullon  and  hin  party  from  Porta^^e  La   Ii(»('lie. 

Dr.  liichardson  observes  that  "Commander  I'lillcn 
will  require  to  be  fully  victualed  for  at  least  120  days 
from  the  20th  of  July,  when  he  may  be  expect  e<l  to 
commence  his  sea  voyage  ;  whicli,  for  sixteen  men,  will 
re(iuiro  forty-rive  bags  of  pemraic^an  of  J)()  lbs.  each. 
This  is  exclusive  of  a  further  supply  which  he  ought  to 
take  for  the  relief  of  any  of  Franklin's  people  he  may 
have  the  good  fortune  to  find.  i\fter  he  leaves  the 
main-land  at  Capo  Bathurst,  he  would  have  no  chance 
of  killing  deer  till  he  makes  Banks'  Land,  or  some  in- 
tervening island  ;  and  he  must  provide  for  the  chaiK^e 
of  being  caught  on  the  floe  ice,  and  having  to  make  his 
way  across  by  the  very  tedious  portage«,  as  fully  de- 
scribed by  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  in  the  narative  of  his  most 
adventurous  boat  voyage  north  of  Spitzbe.gen. 

"  Mr.  Rae  can  give  Commander  Pullen  the  fullest 
information  respecting  the  depots  of  pemmican  made 
on  the  coast. 

"  With  respect  to  Commander  Pullcn's  return  from 
sea,  his  safest  plan  will  be  to  make  for  the  Mackenzie ; 
but  should  circumstances  place  that  out  of  his  power, 
the  only  other  course  that  seems  to  me  to  be  practicable 
is  for  him  to  ascend  a  large  river  which  falls  into  the 
bottom  of  Liverpool  Bay,  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Ba- 
thurst. This  river,  which  is  named  the  Begloola  Dessy 
by  the  Indians,  runs  parallel  to  the  Mackenzie,  and  in 
the  latitude  of  Fort  Good  Hope,  {66°  30'  N.,)  is  not 
above  five  or  six  days'  journey  from  that  post.  Hare 
Indians,  belonging  to  Fort  Good  Hope,  might  be  en 
gaged  to  hunt  on  the  banks  of  the  river  till  the  arrival 
of  the  party.  The  navigation  of  the  river  is  unknown  ; 
but  even  should  Commander  Pullen  be  compelled  to 
quit  his  boats,  his  Indian  hunters,  (of  which  he  should 
at  least  engage  two  for  his  sea  voyage,)  will  support 
and  guide  his  party.  Wood  and  animals  are  most  cer- 
tainly found  on  the  banks  of  river^ 


n 


I 


i        1 


'!i!|.-  i 


V  t 


\\ 


,:\  I    r 


t       i 


tl 


812 


PROGRESS    OF  ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


"It  is  not  likely  that  under  any  circumstances  Com- 
mander Fallen  should  desire  to  reach  the  Mackenzie 
by  way  of  the  Coppermine  River,  and  this  conld  be 
effected  only  by  a  boat  being  placed  at  Dease  River, 
for  the  transport  of  the  party  over  Great  Bear  Lake. 
This  would  require  to  be  arranged  previously  with 
Mr.  Rae ;  and  Commander  PuUen  should  not  be 
later  in  arriving  at  Fort  Confidence  than  the  end  of 
September." 

Voyage  of  the  "Lady  Franklin"  and  "SopmA," 
Government  Vessels,  under  the  command  of  Mr. 
Penny,  1850-61. 

A  vessel  of  230  tons,  named  the  Lady  Franklin,  fit- 
ted out  at  Aberdeen,  with  a  new  brig  as  a  tender,  built 
at  Dundee,  and  named  the  Sophia,  in  honor  of  Miss 
S.  Cracroft,  the  beloved  and  attached  niece  of  Lady 
Franklin,  and  one  of  the  most  anxious  watchers  for 
tidings  of  the  long  missing  adventurers,  were  purchased 
by  the  government  last  year. 

The  diarge  of  this  expedition  was  intrusted  to  Cap- 
tain Penny,  formerly  commanding  the  Advice  whaler, 
and  who  has  had  much  experience  in  the  icy  seas,  hav- 
ing been  engaged  twenty-eight  years,  since  the  age  of 
twelve,  in  the  whaling  trade,  and  in  command  of  ves- 
sels for  fourteen  years  ;  Mr.  Stewart  w^';^  placed  in 
charge  of  the  Sophia. 

The  crew  of  the  Lady  Franklin  number  twenty-five, 
and  that  of  the  Sophia,  twenty,  all  picked  men. 

These  ships  sailed  on  the  12th  of  April,  1850,  pro- 
visioned and  stored  for  three  jeara.  They  were  pro- 
vided with  a  printing  press,  and  every  appliance  to 
relieve  the  tedium  of  a  long  sojourn  in  the  icy  regions. 

In  the  instructions  issued  by  the  Admiralty,  it  is 
stated  that  in  accepting  Captain  Parry's  offer  of  service, 
regard  has  been  had  to  his  long  experience  in  arctic 
navigation,  and  to  the  great  attention  he  has  paid  to 
the  subject  of  the  missing  ships. 

He  was  left  in  a  great  measure  to  the  exercise  of  his 


6 


""Tpr 


Jom- 
enzie 
(I  be 
liver, 
Lake, 
with 
3t  be 
id  of 


PHTA, 

F  Mr. 

in,  fit- 
r,  built 
f  Miss 
■  Lady 
ers  for 
chased 

)  Cap- 
whaler, 
?,  hav- 
lage  of 
)f  ves- 
jed  in 

^y-five, 

,,  pro- 
pro- 
ice  to 
[gions. 
it  is 
hrvice, 
[arctic 
lid  to 

)f  his 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  RESOLUTE  AND  ASSISTANCE,  ETC.      313 

own  judgment  and  "discretion,  in  combining  the  most 
active  and  energetic  search  after  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
with  a  strict  and  careful  regard  to  the  safety  of  the 
ships  and  their  crews  under  his  charge.  He  was  di- 
rected to  examine  Jones'  Sound  at  the  head  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  and  if  possible,  penetrate  through  to  the  Parry 
Islands  ;  failing  in  this,  he  was  to  try  Wellington  Strait, 
and  endeavor  to  reach  Melville  Island.  He  was  to  use 
his  utmost  endeavors,  (consistent  with  the  safety  of  the 
lives  of  those  intrusted  to  his  command,)  to  succor,  in 
the  summer  of  1850,  the  party  under  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, taking  care  to  secure  his  winter-quarters  in  good 
time  ;  and  2dly,  the  same  active  measures  were  to  be 
used  in  the  summer  of  1851,  to  secure  the  return  -of  the 
ships  under  his  charge  to  this  country. 

The  Lady  Franklin  was  off  Cape  York,  in  Baffin's 
Bay,  on  the  13th  of  August.  From  thence  she  pro- 
ceeded, in  company  with  H.  M.  S.  Assistance,  to  Wol- 
stenholme  Sound.  She  aftei*ward,  in  accordance  with 
her  instructions,  crossed  over  to  the  west  with  the  in- 
tention of  examining  Jones'  Sound,  but  owing  to  the 
accumulation  of  ice,  was  unable  to  approach  it  within 
twenty-five  miles.  This  was  at  midnight  on  the  18th. 
She,  therefore,  continued  her  voyage  to  Lancaster 
Sound,  and  onward  to  Wellington  Channel,  where  she 
was  seen  by  Commander  Forsyth,  of  the  Prince  Albert, 
)n  the  25th  of  August,  with  her  tender,  and  H.  M.  S. 
Assistance  in  company,  standing  toward  Cape  Hotham. 

Voyage  of  H.  M.  Ships  "  Resolui'e  "  and  "  Assistance," 
WITH  the  Steamers  "Pioneer"  and  "Intrepid" 
as  Tenders,  under  command  of  Captain  Austin, 
1850-51. 

Two  fine  teak-built  ships  of  about  500  tons  each,  the 
Baboo  and  Ptarmigan,  whose  names  were  altered  to 
the  Assistance  and  Resolute,  were  purchased  by  the 
government  in  1850,  and  sent  to  the  naval  yards  to  be 
oroperly  fitted  for  the  voyage  to  the  polar  regions. 

Two  screw-propeller  steamers,  intended  to  accompany 


ft!'" 


i^ 


,r  HI 

,11  in 


;   I 


'  '  !l' 


f 


h 


m 


814 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


tliese  vessels  as  steam  tenders,  were  also  purchased  and 
similarly  fitted  ;  their  names  were  changed  from  the 
Eider  and  Free  Trade  to  the  Pioneer  and  Intrepid. 

The  command  of  this  expedition  was  intrusted  to 
Captain  Horatio  T.  Austin,  C.  B.,  who  was  first  Lieu- 
tenant of  the  Fury,  under  Commander  Iloppner,  in 
Captain  Sir  E.  Parry's  third  voyage,  in  1824-25.  The 
vessels  were  provisioned  for  three  years,  and  their  at- 
tention was  also  directed  to  the  depots  of  stores  lodged 
by  Sir  James  Boss  at  Leopold  Island,  and  at  J!^avy 
Board  Inlet  by  the  North  Star.  The  ships  sailed  in 
May,  1850.  The  officers  employed  in  them  were  as 
follows  : — 

Resolute. 

Captain  —  Horatio  T.  Austin,  C.  B. 

Lieutenants  —  R.  D.  Aid  rich,  and  "W".  H.  J.  Browne. 

Mates  —  E.  B.  Pearse,  and  W.  M.  May. 

Purser  —  J.  E.  Brooman. 

Surgeon  —  A.  R.  Bradford. 

Assistant,  ditto  —  Bichard  King. 

Midshipmen  —  C.  Bullock,  J.  P.  Cheyne. 

Second  Master  —  G.  F.  M'Dougall. 

Total  complement,  60  men. 

Pionee'^^  screw  steamer. 

Lieut.-Commanding  —  Sherard  Osbom. 
Second  Master  —  J.  H.  AUard. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  F.  R.  Picthom. 

Assistance. 
Captain  —  E.  Ommaney. 
Lieutenants  —  J.  E.  Elliot,  F.  L.  M'Clintock,  and 

G.  F.  Mecham. 
Surgeon  —  J.  J.  L.  Donnett. 
Assistant,  ditto — J.  Ward,  {a^ 
Mates  —  R.  Y.  Hamilton,  and  J.  R.  Keane. 
Clerk  in  Charge — E.  ^N".  Harrison. 
Second  Master  —  "W.  B.  Shellabear. 
Midshipman  —  C.  R.  Markham. 

Total  complement,  60  men. 


I' 


^iii^^ 


-.^.-r-^.Hl^.:..^      ■..-,^.-    ,^-^|.^.  ^^.-..    -—■ Tl-    "111  ■ 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  RESOLUTE  AND  ASSISTANCE,  ETC.      315 

Intrejpid^  screw  steamer. 
Lieut.-Commander — B.  Cater. 
Each  of  the  tenders  had  a  crew  of  30  men. 

Two  ol  the  officers  appointed  to  this  expedition,  Lieu- 
tenants Browne  and  M'Clintock,  were  in  the  Enterprise 
under  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross  in  1848. 

The  Emma  Eugenia  transport  was  dispatched  in  ad- 
vance with  provisions  to  the  Whale-Fish  Islands,  to  await 
the  arrival  of  the  expedition. 

It  having  been  suggested  by  some  parties  that  Sir 
John  Franklin  might  have  effected  his  passage  to  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  been  detained  there  with  liis  ships, 
or  that  the  ships  might  have  been  damaged  by  the  ice 
in  the  neighboring  sea,  and  that  with  his  crews  he  had 
abandoned  them  and  made  his  escape  to  that  island. 
Captain  Austin  was  specially  instructed  to  use  every 
exertion  to  reach  this  island,  detaching  a  portion  of  his 
ships  to  search  the  shores  of  Wellington  Channel  and 
the  coast  about  Cape  Walker,  to  which  point  Sir  John 
Franklin  was  ordered  to  proceed. 

Advices  were  first  received  from  the  Assistance,  after 
her  departure,  dated  5th  of  July ;  she  was  then  making 
her  way  to  the  northward.  The  season  was  less  favor- 
able for  exploring  operations  than  on  many  previous 
years.  But  little  ice  had  been  met  With  in  Davis' 
Strait,  where  it  is  generally  found  in  large  quantities, 
60  that  obstacles  of  a  serious  nature  may  be  expected 
to  the  northward.  Penny's  ships  had  been  in  company 
with  them. 

Ice  is  an  insurmountable  barrier  to  rapid  progress ; 
fortifications  may  be  breached,  but  huge  masses  of  ice, 
200  to  600  feet  high,  are  not  to  be  overcome. 

On  the  2d  of  July  the  Assistance  was  towed  beneath 
a  perpendicular  cliff*  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Shackle- 
ton,  rising  to  the  height  of  1500  feet,  which  was  ob- 
served to  be  crowded  with  the  fooliph  guillemot?,  ( TJria 
t/roile.)  When  the  ship  hooked  on  to  an  iceberg  for  the 
night,  a  party  sent  on  shore  for  the  purpose  brought  off 
260  birds  and  about  twenty  dozen  of  their  eggs.  These 
birds  only  lay  one  Qgg  each. 


iP 


If 


I    ! 


i 


\ 


il 


t 'i  li; 


1: 


,;  ;' 


V 


I 


(i 


-kK 


li  1  \i\ 


\     ) 

!'■. 
i:;; 


:;V' 


316 


PROGRESS   OF    AKCTIO    DISCOVERY. 


.  "  Si  ■■ 


The  following  official  dispatch  has  been  since  received 
from  Captain  Oramaney : — 

^^  Her  Majesty^  s  ship  ^  Assistances^  off  Lancaster  Sound, 
latitude  75°  46'  i\^.,  longitude  75°  49'  TF.,  Augmt 
17,  1850. 

"  Sir, —  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  in- 
formation of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admi- 
ralty,  that  her  Majesty's  ship  Assistance,  and  her  tender, 
her  Majesty's  steam-vessel  Intrepid,  have  this  day  suc- 
ceeded in  effecting  a  passage  .cross  to  the  west  water, 
and  are  now  proceeding  to  Lancaster  Sound.  Officers 
and  crews  all  well,  with  fine  clear  weather,  and  open 
water  as  far  as  can  be  seen. 

"  Agreeably  with  instructions  received  from  Captain 
II.  Austin,  we  parted  company  on  the  15th  instant,  at 
one  A.  M.,  off  Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  as  the  ice  was  then 
sufficiently  open  to  anticipate  no  farther  obstruction  in 
effecting  the  north  passage.  He  was  anxious  to  proceed 
to  Pond's  Bay,  and  thence  take  up  the  examination  along 
the  south  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound,  leaving  me  to 
ascertain  the  truth  of  a  report  obtained  from  the  Esqui- 
maux at  Cape  York  respecting  some  ship  or  ships  hav- 
ing been  seen  near  Wolstenholme  Island,  after  which  to 
proceed  to  the  north  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound  and 
Wellington  Channel. 

"  On  passing  Cape  York,  (the  14th  inst.,)  natives  were 
seen.  ]By  the  directions  of  Captain  Austin  I  landed, 
and  communicated  with  them,  when  we  were  informed 
that  they  had  seen  a  ship  in  that  neighborhood  in  the 
spring,  and  that  she  was  housed  in.  Upon  this  intelli- 
gence I  shipped  one  of  the  natives,  who  volunteered  to 
join  us  as  interpreter  and  guide. 

"  On  parting  with  Captain  Austin  we  proceeded 
toward  Wolstenholme  Island,  where  I  left  the  ship  and 
proceeded  in  her  Majesty's  steam- vessel  Intrepid  into 
Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  by  the  guidance  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, succeeded  in  finding  a  bay  about  thirteen  miles 
further  in,  and  sheltered  by  a  prominent  headland.  In 
the  cairns  erected  here  we  found  a  document  stating 


reived 

lu(/ud 

the  in- 
Admi- 
tender, 
ay  siic- 
I  water, 
Dfficers 
d  open 

IJaptam 

itaut,  at 

'as  then 

ction  in 

proceed 

)n  along 

r  me  to 
Esqui- 
ps  hav- 
^hich  to 

ind  and 

res  were 
(landed, 
iformed 
in  the 
intelli- 
tered  to 

kceeded 

jiip  and 

lid  into 

Esqui- 

miles 

id.    In 

stating 


VOYAGE   OF  THE  RESOLUTE   AJS'D   ASSISTANCE,  ETC.    317 

that  the  !N"orth  Star  had  wintered  in  the  bay,  a  copy 
of  which  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  to  their  Lord- 
ships. 

"  Previous  to  searching  the  spot  where  the  North  Star 
wintered,  I  examined  the  deserted  Esquimaux  >':'>- 
ment.  At  this  spot  we  found  evident  traces  of  .  .iiio 
ship  having  been  in  the  neighborhood,  from  empty  ])ro- 
served  meat  canisters  and  some  clothes  left  near  a  i)ool 
of  water,  marked  with  the  name  of  a  corporal  belonging 
to  the  North  Star. 

"  Having  ascertained  this  satisfactory  information,  I 
returned  to  Wolstenholme  Island,  where  a  document  was 
deposited  recording  our  proceedings.  At  0  a.  m.,  of  the 
16th  inst.,  I  rejoined  the  ship,  and  proceeded  at  two  to 
the  westward,  and  am  happy  to  inform  you  that  the 
passage  across  has  been  made  without  obstrnction,  tow- 
ing through  loose  and  straggling  ice. 

"  The  expedition  was  beset  in  Melville  Bay,  sur- 
rounded by  heavy  and  extensive  floes  of  ice,  from  the 
11th  of  July  to  the  9th  of  August,  1850,  when,  after 
great  exertion,  a  release  was  efiected,  and  we  succeeded 
in  reaching  Cape  York  by  continuing  along  the  edge  of 
the  land-ice,  after  which  we  have  been  favored  with 
plenty  of  water. 

"  Captain  Penny's  expedition  was  in  company  during 
the  most  part  of  the  time  while  in  Melville  Bay,  and  up 
to  the  14th  inst.,  when  we  left  him  oif  Cape  Dudley 
Diggs  —  all  well. 

"  In  crossing  Melville  Bay  we  fell  in  with  Sir  John 
Ross  and  Captain  Forsyth's  expeditions.  These  Capt. 
Austin  has  assisted  by  towing  them  toward  their  desti- 
nations. The  latter  proceeded  with  him,  and  the  former 
has  remained  with  us. 

"  Having  placed  Sir  John  Ross  in  a  fair  way  of 
reaching  Lancaster  Sound,  with  a  fair  wind  and  open 
water,  his  vessel  has  been  cast  off  in  this  position.  I 
shall,  therefore,  proceed  with  all  dispatch  to  the  exami- 
nation of  the  north  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound  and 
Wellington  Channel,  according  to  Captain  Austin's 
directions. 


"h 


'>-' 


', 


I    ;  * 


li 
l.i. 


(! 


n 


.  I 


i\ 


i  I 


•     .(11    » 


ii 


318 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCrnC   DISCOVERT. 


Mi 


"I  have  the  honor  to  be,  Sir,  your  most  obedient 
humble  servant. 

"  Erasmus  Ommaney,  Captain." 

The  Kesolutfcgot  clear  of  the  Orkneys  on  tlie  15tli  of 
May,  and  arrived  with  her  consort  and  the  two  tenders 
at  the  Whale-Fish  Islands  on  the  14th  of  June. 

The  Resolute  was  in  Possession  Bay  on  the  17th  of 
Au|);u8t.  From  thence  her  proposed  course  was  alonrr 
tlic  coast,  northward  and  westward,  to  Whaler  Point, 
situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Port  Leopold,  and 
afterward  to  Melville  Island. 

In  order  to  amuse  themselves  and  their  comrades,  the 
officers  of  the  Assistance  had  started  a  MS.  newspaper, 
under  the  name  of  the  "  Aurora  Borealis."  Many  of 
my  readers  will  have  heard  of  the  "  Cockpit  Herald," 
and  such  other  productions  of  former  days,  in  his  Majes- 
ty's fleet.  Parry,  too,  liad  his  journal«to  beguile  tlie 
long  hours  of  the  tedious  arctic  winter. 

I  have  seen  copies  of  this  novel  specimen  of  the 
'fourth  estate,"  dated  Baffin's  Bay,  June,  1850,  in  which 
there  is  a  happy  mixture  of  grave  and  gay,  prose  and 
verse  ;  numerous  very  fair  acrostics  are  published.  I 
append,  by  way  of  curiosity,  a  couple  of  extracts  : — 

"  AVhat  insect  that  Noah  had  with  him,  were  these 
regions  named  after  ?  — The  arc-tic." 

"  To  the  editor  of  the  Aurora  borealis. 

"  Sir, —  Having  heard  from  an  arctic  voyager  that  he 
has  seen  '  crows'-nests'  in  those  icy  regions,  I  beg  to 
inquire  through  your  columns,  if  they  are  built  by  tlie 
crows,  {Corvus  tintinnahulus^  which  Goodsir  states  to 
utter  a  metallic  bell-like  croak?  My  fast  friend  begs 
me  to  inquire  when  rook  shooting  commences  in  thotie 
diggings  ? 

"  A  Naturaijst. 

["  We  would  recommend  to  *  A  Naturalist '  a  visit  to 
these  '  crows'-nests,'  which  do  exist  in  the  arctic  regions. 
We  would  also  advise  his  fast  friend  to  investigate 


I 

unte 
able 
who 
:    Engl 
pickt 
vans 
own  3 
proce 
in  his 
was  11 
land 
June, 
DanisI 
Jangua 
Fish  Ii 
gatt  Si 
ships  I 
Intrepi 
Austin. 
On  t 
Assista 
so  mewl 
qnimau 
it  was 
inglj,  L 
to  the  1 
whale-b( 
Intrepid 
any  mea 


obedient 

^taiu." 

'■  15tli  of 
)  tenders 

irth  of 

18    aloilfr 

I'  Point, 
•old,  and 

ides,  the 
Pspapei', 
lany  of 
lerald," 
8  Majes- 
uile  the 

of  the 
n  which 
3se  and 
hed.    I 

ts : — 

'e  these 


JJST. 

visit  to 
3^ion8, 
stigato 


VOVAOE    nv    art. 

tenaMted"'b"':[,;"'°1  f'-"'r^''^y>  ^e  would  find  th. 
«-ould  not  only  (JoLl'^'  ('^^^  <i"'"-te.-.n  asters  wl.'" 
and  the  spoi-t,W  1  ™ '"?  ■»«  '<>  tbo  apecitTZ-''     '"* 

-hmtOB."]         ^  ""^  "  P'g«on  may  be  plucked!: 

England  in  the  pT' ""1  P"'''''<=  ^ubsc.iptfon  T  '""^'' 

I  vansPh1lrK'K^^;^^''r1bVcon'"JX'.CG.'' 
^  own  jacht  of  twelv;  ^n  '*''" '"'''  "'«  Mary  S  ,  Tnl  '" 
I    proceeded  as  ill!    /""''  "'  *  tender.     Mr  A I    " 

i"  his  form:Vvtr:t'p"^'T»'«'='^'^'"P-'ied  s!:'7'  ■'' 

sMos  i?'*'/^^'''""'^.  on%he  loT 'f'T"«''  "'«  ^^"r- 
°" I ps  Assistance  nnrl  -p      i      ■^^'^"  <>i  August    TT    lir 

qmmaux  on  the  ice  closeh.^T'"^  ^^'^^  wale  £«! 

was  prudently  --esolved  ^conlr''-''  *«««  P-P'e 

0  ti  I  ^f ".'«"«"'  Cator  in  the  d  •"."'°^*«-    ^""wd- 

?>attTTfXVe]^   °— ^^^^^^ 
-trepid's  peopK  -d  tltt  T  *'^  -'--    Tl  a 


i'      I . 


■-H 


iil;i.; 


:•  i 


'.'.    I 


K', 


320 


PROQIIESS  Ob'  AliCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


1 

f 

Hi  ^ 

1 

'i 

wB^/K^^m 

1 

in 

i: 

boat  of  the  Felix,  containing  an  Esquimaux  interpreter 
joined  the  piu'ty,  the  natives  immediately  gave  sigjis 
of  reoognition  and  satisfaction,  came  into  the  bout  with- 
out the  least  hesitation,  and  engaged  themselves  pro- 
sently  in  a  long  and  animated  conversation  with  tlu-ii 
(iMiiiiti"} man  the  interpreter.  Half  an  hour  was  de- 
voted to  this  interchange  of  intelligence,  but  with  uu 
immediate  result,  for  the  interpreter  could  only  trans- 
late his  native  language  into  Danish,  and  as  no  pers(ju 
in  the  boat  understood  Danish,  the  informatiun  re- 
mained as  inaccessible  as  before.  In  this  predicament 
the  boats  returned  with  the  intention  of  confronting  the 
interpreter  —  whose  christianized  name  is  Adam  Beek 
—  with  Sir  John  Ross  himself.  As  Sir  John,  however, 
was  pushing  ahead  in  the  Felix  toward  Cape  Dudley 
Diggs,  and  as  Adam  appeared  anxious  to  disburden 
himself  of  his  newly  acquired  information,  the  bouts 
dropped  on  board  the  I  rince  Albert,  another  of  the 
exploring  vessels  in  the  neighborhood,  and  there  put 
Adam  in  communication  with  the  captain's  steward, 
John  Smith,  who  "understood  a  little  of  the  language," 
as  Sir  John  Ross  says,  or  "a  good  deal,"  as  Com- 
mander Phillips  says,  and  who  presently  gave  such  au 
account  of  the  intelligence  as  startled  every  body  ud 
board.  Its  purport  was  as  follows; — ^That  in  the  win- 
ter of  1846,  when  the  snow  was  falling,  two  ships  were 
crushed  by  the  ice  a  good  way  off  in  the  direction  of 
Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  and  afterward  burned  by  a  fierce 
and  numerous  tribe  of  natives ;  that  the  ships  in  ques- 
tion were  not  whalers,  and  that  epaulettes  were  worn 
by  some  of  the  white  men ;  that  a  part  of  the  crews 
were  drowned,  that  the  remainder  were  some  time  in 
huts  or  tents  apart  from  the  natives,  that  they  had  guns, 
but  no  balls,  and  that  being  in  a  weak  and  exhausted 
condition,  they  were  subsequently  killed  by  the  natives 
w^th  darts  or  arrows.  This  was  the  form  given  to  the 
Esquimaux  story  by  John  Smith,  captain's  steward  of 
the  Prince  Albert.  Impressed  with,  che  importance  of 
these  tidings.  Captain  Ommaney  and  Commander 
Phillips  immediately  made  their  report  to  Captain 


A  111 
witi 

tin 

to  fl 


preter, 

e  signs 
Lt  wi til- 
es pre- 
h  tliL'ii 

'118     (Ic- 

/ith  iKt 
f  trail  s- 
porsoii 
;iuii  ro- 
cameut 
;in^  the 
n  Beek 
jwever, 
Dudley 
iburdeii 
e  boats 
'  of  the 
ere  put 
teward, 
^uage," 
s  Com- 
5uch  au 
)od}'  ou 
be  win- 
)s  were 
tion  of 
I  fierce 
ques- 
|e  worn 
crews 
liuie  in 
guns, 
lausted 
latives 
to  the 
ird  of 
nee  of 
ander 
liptain 


r. 


VOYAOK    OF   SIR   JOHN    K()S9   IN   THE   TELIX,    ETC.     321 

Austin  in  tlie  Repolnto,  w^hich  was  then  in  company 
with  the  Felix  near  Ca])o  Dudloy  Dii]:":^.  Captain  Aus- 
tin at  once  decided  noon  iiivesti«,^at'ini^  tlie  credibility 
of  the  story,  and  with  this  view  dispatched  a  niessaixo 
to  the  Lady  Franklin,  anotlier  of  the  (^xph^rini;  ships, 
which  lay  a  few  miles  off,  and  which  had  tn  board  a 
regular  Danish  interpreter.  This  interpreter  duly  ar- 
rived, but  proceeded  forthwith  to  translate  the  story  by 
a  statement  "  totally  at  variance  "  with  the  interpreta- 
tion of  "  the  other,"  whom,  as  we  are  told,  he  called  a 
liar  and  intimidated  into  silence ;  though  no  sooner  wra 
the  latter  left  to  himself  than  he  again  repeated  his 
version  of  the  tale,  and  stoutly  maintained  its  accuracy. 
Meantime  an  additional  piece  of  information  becan'ie 
known,  namely,  that  a  certain  ship  had  passed  the  win- 
ter safely  housed  in  Wolstenholme  Sound  —  a  state- 
ment soon  ascertained  by  actual  investigation  to  be 
perfectly  true.  The  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter 
from  — 

Captain  Sir  John  Boss^  R.  iV.,  to  Captain  W.  A.  B. 
Hamilton^  R.  iV.,  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty. 

^'''' Felix'*  discovery  yacht ^  off  Admiralty  Inlet .^ 
*'  Lancaster  Sounds  August  22. 

"Sir, —  I  have  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  information 
of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  that  the 
Felix  discovery  yacht,  with  her  tender,  the  Mary,  after 
obtaining  an  Esquimaux  interpreter  at  Holsteinborg, 
and  calling  at  Whale-Fish  Islands,  proceeded  north  way 
through  the  Waygatt  Straits,  and  overtook  her  Ma- 
jesty's discovery  ships,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Austin  on  the  11th  of  August;  and  on  the  12th  the 
senior  officer  and  the  second  in  command  having  cor- 
dially communicated  with  me  on  the  best  mode  of 
performing  the  service  on  which  we  are  mutually  em- 
barked, arrangements  were  made  and  concluded  for  a 
simultaneous  examination  of  every  part  of  the  eastern 
side  of  a  northwest  passage  in  which  it  was  probable 
that  the  missing  ships  could  be  bound :  documents  t*) 


11  jm\ 

\  ■ 

I ' 

' 

i  ! 
1 

\\          i 

^'1        i      !  i  1 

1                                      1 

1 

1 

'  -ii 

1 
1 
( 

1'  i, 

:.:! 

I  i 


I 


■'.  i 


i 


»i. 


322 


PUOUKElrfS   OF    AltCriCJ    DISCOVERY. 


that  effect  were  exchanged,  and  subsequently  assented 
to  by  Captains  Forsyth  and  Penny. 

''  On  the  13th  of  August  natives  were  discovered  on 
the  ice  near  to  Cape  York,  with  whom  it  was  deunied 
advisable  to  communicate.  On  this  service,  Lieutenant 
Cator,  in  the  Intrepid,  was  detached  on  the  ])art  ot* 
Captain  Austin,  and  on  my  part  Connnander  IMnlllps^ 
with  our  Esquimaux  interpreter,  in  the  whale-boat  of 
the  Felix,  it  was  found  by  Lieutenant  Cator  that  Cap- 
tain Penny  had  left  with  the  natives  a  note  for  Captain 
Austin,  but  only  relative  to  the  state  of  the  navigation' 
however,  when  Commander  Phillips  arrived,  the  Ksqui- 
maux,  seeing  one  ajjparently  of  their  own  nation  in  tlie 
whale-boat,  came  immediately  to  him,  wlien  a  loni; 
conversation  took  place,  the  purport  of  which  could 
not  be  made  known,  as  the  interpreter  could  not  ex- 
plain himself  to  any  one,  either  in  tlie  Intrepid  or  tlie 
whale-boat,  (as  he  understands  only  the  Dardsh  besides 
his  own  language,)  until  he  was  brought  on  board  tiie 
Prince  Albert,  where  John  Smith,  the  captain's  stew- 
ard of  that  vessel,  who  had  been  some  years  at  tlie 
Hudson's  Pay  settlement  of  Churchill,  and  understands 
a  little  of  the  language,  was  able  to  give  some  expla- 
nation of  Adam  Peek's  information,  which  was  deemed 
of  such  importance  that  Captains  Ommaney,  Phillips, 
and  Forsyth,  proceeded  in  the  Intrepid  to  the  Kesolutc, 
when  it  was  ^^ecided  by  Captain  Austin  to  send  for  the 
Danish  Interpreter  of  the  Lady  Franklin,  which,  hav- 
ing been  unsuccessful  in  an  attempt  at  getting  through 
the  ice  to  the  westward,  was  only  a  few  miles  distant. 
In  the  mean  time  it  was  known  tliat,  in  addition  to  the 
first  information,  a  ship,  which  could  only  be  the  Noitli 
Star,  had  wintered  in  Wolstenholme  Sound,  called  by 
the  natives  Ourinak,  and  had  only  left  it  a  month  ago. 
This  proved  to  be  true,  but  the  interpretation  of  the 
Dane  was  totally  at  variance  with  the  information  givon 
by  the  other,  who,  although  for  obvious  reasons  he  did 
not  dare  to  contradict  the  Dane,  subsequently  main- 
tained tho  truth  of  his  statement,  which  induced  Cap- 
tain Austin  to  dispatch  the   Intrepid  with  Captains 


:1>  10^0. 
lof  the 

j>;ivi'n 
llie  (lid 

niaiii- 
Cap- 
[ptains 


VOYAGK    OF   SIR   JOIIN    R(HSS    IN    THK    FKI.IX,    KTC.     323 

On\miiiiey  and  Phillip>J,  taking  with  them  both  our  in- 
torprutors,  Aihiiii   Beek  and  u  young  native  who  had 
been  persuaded  to  eonie  as  one  of  the  crew  of  tlie  As- 
sistance, to   examine   Wolsteniiolme   Sound.     In    tlic 
mean  time  it  had  been  unanimously  decided  that  no 
alteration  should  be  made  in  our  previous  arrangement, 
it  being  obvious  that  while  there  remained  a  chance  of 
saving  the  lives  of  those  of  the  missing  ships  who  may 
be  yet  alive,  a  further  search  for  those  wlio  had  ])er- 
ished  should  be  postponed,  and  accordingly  the  Reso- 
lute, Pioneer,  and  Prince  Albert  ])arted  company  on 
the  15th.     It  is  hero  unnecessary  to  give  the  official  re- 
ports made  to  me  by  Commander  Phillips,  wliich  are 
of  course  transmitted  by  me  to  the  Secretary  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which,  with  the  information 
written  in  the  Esquimaux  language  by  Adam  Beek, 
will  no  doubt  be  sent  to  you  for  their  Lordships'  infor- 
mation ;  and  it  will  be  manifest  by  these  reports  that 
Commander  Phillips  has  performed  his  duty  with  sa- 
gacity, circumspection,  and  address,  which  do  him  in- 
finite credit,  although  it  is  only  such  as  I  must  have 
expected  from  so  intelligent  an  officer;   and  I   have 
much  satisfaction  in  adding  that  it  has  been  mainly 
owing  to  his  zeal  and  activity  that  I  was  able,  under 
disadvantaL't"  lis  circumstances,  to  overtake  her  Majes- 
ty's ships,  vsailc  by  his  scientific  acquirements  and  ac- 
curacy in  surveying,  he  has  been  able  to  make  many 
important  corrections  and  valuable  additions  to  the 
charts  of  the  much-frequented  eastern  side  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  which  has  been  more  closely  observed  and  navi- 
gated by  us  than  by  any  former  expedition,  and,  much 
to  my  satisfaction,  confirming  the  latitude  and  longi- 
tude of  every  headland  I  had  an  opportunity  of  laying 
down  in  the  year  1818. 

"'I  have  only  to  add  that  I  have  much  satisfaction 
in  co-operating  with  her  Majesty's  expedition.  With 
such  support  and  with  such  vessels  so  particularly 
adapted  for  the  service,  no  exertion  shall  be  wanting 
on  my  part.  But  I  cannot  conclude  this  letter  without 
acknowledging  my  obligations  to  Commodore  Austin 

N 


I'll 


'    ih 


•: 


'!;■  A' 
'  ,1 


ii 


ill- 


1 , 1 


I,.  i\n 


821 


I'ROOKKSS   OK    AK<  TIC    PISCOVKUY. 


fiii<l  r;ij)t.'iin  Oiniiianoy  for  tlic  assistfiiico  tlioy  hnvo  nf- 

iordcd  mo,  mul  lor  tUo  cordiulity  and  (Mtiirti'sy  with 

wliic'li  r  lijivo  h(>(!n  ttvatcMl   l»y  tlicsc^  (listini^niislu'd  dfli. 

ccrs  and  otlicrs  of  tlio  ships  under  IhiMr  ohUts.     Ani- 

matod  as  ww  avo,  witli  an  ardent  and  siiuMM't?  (h'sii(!  lo 

reweiio  our  iiuj)eriled  couuti'yuion,  I  coutideutly  trust 

.hat  our  unitecl  exertions  nnd  humble  cndeuvorH  uuiy, 

mder  a  merciful  Providence,  be  conii>letely  succcRsfill. 

*'I  um,  with  truth  and  regard,  Sir,  your  faitliful  and 

v^bedient  servant, 

"John  Eoss,  Captain,  R.  N." 

By  the  Hccounts  broucjlit  home  by  Commander  For- 
Bytli  from  Lancaster  Sound,  to  the  25th  of  Auijust,  it 
is  stated  that  Sir  Jolui  lloss,  in  the  Felix,  intended  to 
return  to  England. 

The  ice  was  at  that  period  very  heavy,  extending  all 
around  from  Leopold  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  Regent 
Inlet,  to  Cape  Farewell,  to  the  westward,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent the  ])o6sibility  of  any  of  the  vessels  pushing  on  to 
Cape  Walker.  AVhen  the  Prince  Albert  was  between 
Cai)e  Spencer  and  Cape  Innes,  in  Wellington  Channel, 
ISlv.  Snow  went  at  noon  to  the  mast-head,  and  saw  II. 
IVr.  Ship  Assistance  as  near  as  possible  within  ('ape 
Ilotham,  under  a  press  of  sail.  Iler  tender,  the  In- 
tre})id,  was  not  seen,  but  was  believed  to  be  with  her. 
Captain  Penny,  with  his  two  ships,  the  Lady  Franklin 
and  Sophia,  was  endeavoring  to  make  his  way  up  the 
same  Channel,  but  it  was  feared  the  ice  would  ulti- 
mately be  too  strong  for  him,  and  that  he  would  have 
to  return  home,  leaving  Captain  Austin's  8<:;][uadron  only 
to  winter  in  the  ice. 

The  American  man-of-war  brig  Rescue  was  close  bo 
set  with  the  ice  near  Cape  Bowen. 

The  Pioneer  was  with  the  Resolute  on  the  17th 
August. 


K-: 


LADY  FHANKMn's  AIM'KAL  TO  AMKRTrAN  NATION.    326 

AMKinoAx  SKAit(  iiiN(j  KxiMiDiTrox. —  Unitki)  Stvith' 
8iiirs,  "  Advanck"  and  ''  Ukscuio,"  rNDKii  tmk  Com- 
mand OK  LlKUTKNANT  I)k  IIaVKN,  1^^.50- f)!. 

In  the  Hj)rin^  of  1S41),  Lady  I-'raiiklin  iiiado  a  ioucli- 
ing  and  j)atlii)tic  appejil  to  tlm  tt)clin«j;s  (»!'  tliu  AnHM'ii';iii 
nation,  in  tlio  following  letter  to  the  i*re8ident  of  the 
Kopublic:  — 

The  Lady  of  Sir  John  Franklin  to  the  President. 

^''Bedford-2)lanc^  London.^  Wi  April,  1840. 

"Sir, —  I  address  myself  to  you  as  the  head  of  a 
great  nation,  whose  ])ower  to  help  me  I  cannot  douht, 
and  in  whose  disposition  to  do  so  1  have  a  confidence 
which  I  trust  you  will  not  deem  presumptuous. 

"The  name  of  my  husband,  Sir  J(din  Fraidvlin,  is 
probably  not  unknown  to  you.  It  is  intimately  con- 
nected with  the  northern  ])ai't  of  that  continent  of 
which  the  American  re})nl)lic  forms  so  vast  and  con- 
spicuous a  portion.  "Wiien  I  visited  tlie  UnitiMl  States 
three  years  ago,  among  the  many  proofs  I  received  of 
respect  and  courtesy,  there  was  none  which  touched 
and  even  surprised  me  more  than  the  ap])reciation 
everywhere  expressed  to  me  of  his  former  services  in 
geographical  discovery,  and  the  interest  felt  in  the  en- 
terprise in  which  he  was  then  known  to  be  engaged." 
«  #  #  ^  # 

[Her  ladyship  here  gives  the  details  of  the  departure 
of  the  expedition,  and  the  measures  already  taken  for 
its  relief.] 

«  #  «  -Jf  4f 

"I  have  entered  into  these  details  with  the  view  of 
proving  that,  though  the  British  government  has  not 
forgotten  the  duty  it  owes  to  the  brave  men  whom  it 
has  sent  on  a  perilous  service,  and  has  spent  a  very 
large  sum  in  providing  the  means  for  their  rescue,  yet 
that,  owing  to  various  causes,  the  means  r.,ctually  in 
operation  for  this  purpose  are  quite  inadequate  to  meet 
the   extreme  exigence  of  the  case;  for,  it  must  be 


f.f 


i  I' 


;!!■ 


iii'i 


I  I 


I 


r 


'r 

i 


1  i 


lift 


.t  » 


326 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


if:: 


I 


remembered,  that  the  missing  ships  were  victualed  for 
three  years  only,  and  that  nearly  four  years  have  now 
elapsed,  so  that  the  survivors  of  so  many  winters  in  the 
ice  must  be  at  the  last  extremity.  And  also,  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  channels  by  which  the  ships 
may  have  attempted  to  force  a  passage  to  the  westward, 
or  which  they  may  have  been  compelled,  by  adverse 
circumstances,  to  take,  are  very  numerous  and  compli- 
cated, and  that  one  or  two  ships  cannot  possibly,  in  the 
course  of  the  next  short  summer,  explore  them  all. 

"  The  Board  of  Admiralty,  under  a  conviction  of  this 
fact,  has  been  induced  to  offer  a  reward  of  20,000^. 
sterling  to  any  ship  or  ships,  of  any  country,  or  to  any 
exploring  party  whatever,  which  shall  render  eflicient 
assistance  to  the  missing  ships,  or  their  crews,  or  to  any 
portion  of  them.  This  announcement,  which,  even  if 
the  sum  had  been  doubled  or  trebled,  would  have  met 
with  public  approbation,  comes,  however,  too  late  for 
our  whalers,  which  had  unfortunately  sailed  before  it 
was  issued,  and  which,  even  if  the  news  should  over- 
take them  at  their  fishing-grounds,  are  totally  unfitted 
for  any  prolonged  adventure,  having  only  a  few  months' 
provision  on  board,  and  no  additional  clothing.  To  the 
American  whalers,  both  in  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  I 
look  with  more  hope,  as  competitors  for  the  prize,  be- 
ing well  aware  of  their  numbers  and  strength,  their 
thorough  equipment,  and  the  bold  spirit  of  enterprise 
which  animates  their  crews.  But  I  venture  to  look 
even  beyond  these.  I  am  not  without  hope  that  you 
will  deem  it  not  unworthy  of  a  great  and  kindred  na- 
tion to  take  up  the  cause  of  humanity  which  I  plead,  in 
a  national  spirit,  and  thus  generously  make  it  your  own. 

"  I  must  here,  in  gratitude,  adduce  the  example  of 
the  imperial  llussian  government,  which,  as  I  im  led 
10  hope  by  his  Excellency,  the  Russian  embassador  in 
London,  who  forwarded  a  memorial  on  the  subject,  will 
send  out  exploring  parties  this  summer,  from  the  Asiatic 
eicio  of  Behring's  Strait,  northward,  in  search  of  the 
lost  vessels.  It  would  be  a  noble  spectacle  to  the 
world,  if  three  great  nations,  possessed  of  the  widest 


w  c 


you 
na- 
Ld,  in 
I  own. 
lie  of 
led 
)r  in 
will 
liatic 
the 
the 
idest 


LADY  FEANKLLN's   APPEAL  TO   AMERICAN  NATION.    327 

empires  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  were  thus  to  unite 
their  efforts  in  the  truly  christian  work  of  saving  their 
perishing  fellow-men  from  destruction. 

"It  is  not  for  me  to  suggest  the  mode  in  which  such 
benevolent  efforts  might  best  be  made.  1  will  only  say, 
however,  that  if  the  conceptions  of  my  own  mind,  to 
which  I  do  not  venture  to  give  utterance,  werfi  realized, 
and  that  in  the  noble  competition  which  followed,  Amer- 
ican seamen  had  the  good  fortune  to  wrest  from  us  the 
glory,  as  might  be  the  case,  of  solving  the  problem  of 
the  unfound  passage,  or  the  still  greater  glory  of  savins 
our  adventurous  navigators  from  a  lingering  fate  which 
the  mind  sickens  to  dwell  on,  though  1  should  in  either 
case  regret  that  it  was  not  my  own  brave  countrymen 
ir  those  seas  whose  devotion  was  thus  rewarded,  yet 
should  I  rejoice  that  it  was  to  America  we  owed  our 
restored  happiness,  and  should  be  forever  bound  to  her 
by  ties  of  aftectionate  gratitude. 

"  I  am  not  without  some  misgivings  while  I  thus  ad- 
dress you.    The  intense  anxieties  of  a  wife  and  of  a 
daughter  may  have  led  me  to  press  too  earnestly  on 
your  notice  the  trials  under  which  we  pre  suffering, 
(yet  not  we  only,  but  hundreds  of  others,)  and  to  pre- 
sume too  much  on  the  sympathy  which  we  are  assured 
is  felt  beyond  the  limits  of  our  own  land.    Yet,  if 
you  deem  this  to  be  the  case,  you  will  still  find,  1  am 
sure,  even  in  that  personal  intensity  of  feeling,  an 
excuse  for  the  fearlessness  with  which  I  have  throwit 
myself  on  your  generosity,  and  will  pardon  the  hom 
age  I  thus  pay  to  your  own  high  character,  and  to  thr 
of  the  people  over  whom  you  have  the  distinction  t^ 
preside.  "  I  have,  &c., 

(Signed)  "Jane  Fkanklin." 

To  which  the  following  reply  was  received  : — 

Mr.  Clayton  to  Lady  Jane  Franklin. 

''''Department  of  State,  Washington^ 
"  ^hth  April,  1849. 

"Madam, — Your  letter  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  dated  Ai)ril  4th,  1840,  has  been  received  by 


li; 


'I, 


!!• 


\ , 


\  I 


!  I  ! 


i'  ■  ! 


I  1 


ill! 


\  \ 


H' 


1  ;  ! 


i::  illl 


328 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


i 


liim,  and  lie  has  instructed  me  to  make  to  you  the  fol- 
lowinjT^  reply  : — 

'^  Tlio  appeal  made  in  the  letter  with  which  you  have 
honored  hi  in,  is  such  as  would  strongly  enlist  the  sym 
pathy  of  tiie  rulers  and  the  people  of  any  portion  of 
the  civilized  world. 

"  To  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  who  share  s- 
largely  in  the  emotions  which  agitate  the  public  min<l 
in  your  own  country,  the  name  of  Sir  John  Franklin 
has  been  endeared  by  his  heroic  virtues,  and  the  suffer- 
ings and  sacrifices  which  he  has  encountered  for  the 
benefit  of  mankind.  The  appeal  of  his  wife  and  daugh- 
ter, in  their  distress,  has  been  borne  across  the  waters, 
asking  the  assistance  of  a  kindred  people  to  save  the 
brave  men  who  embarked  in  this  unfortunate  expedi- 
tion ;  and  the  people  of  the  United  States,  who  have 
watched  with  the  deepest  interest  that  hazardous  enter- 
prise, will  now  respond  to  that  appeal,  by  the  expression 
of  their  united  wishes  that  every  proper  effort  may  be 
made  by  this  government  for  the  rescue  of  your  hus- 
band and  his  companions. 

"  To  accomplish  the  objects  you  have  in  view,  the 
attention  of  American  navigators,  and  especially  of 
our  whalers,  will  be  immediately  invoked.  All  the  in- 
formation in  the  possession  of  this  government,  to 
enabk  them  to  aid  in  discovering  the  missing  sliips, 
relieving  their  crews  and  restoring  them  to  their  fami- 
lies, shall  be  spread  far  and  wide  among  our  people; 
and  all  tliat  the  executive  government  of  the  United 
States,  in  the  exercise  of  its  constitutional  powers,  can 
effect,  to  meet  this  requisition  on  American  enterprise, 
skill  and  bravery,  will  be  promptly  undertaken. 

"  The  hearts  of  the  American  people  will  be  deeply 
touched  by  your  eloquent  address  to  their  Chief  Magis- 
trate, and  they  will  join  with  you  in  an  earnest  prayer 
to  Him  whose  spirit  is  on  the  waters,  that  your  husband 
and  his  companions  may  yet  be  restored  to  their  coun- 
try and  their  friends. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  "  John  M.  Clayton." 


"> 


can 


'-t".;n  of  Captain's  -t,:*  ^' ^*;?'^ "tte/tJiJ fo S 
editions  so  „,uol.  LaU  &4S-"  ^^'"^'^  "'''"'« 

Qin  the  „:'«!":,  ~,of  address^  „„,„,  ,„ 
h.»nd,  Sir  John  IVaiikli,     I  ;r  2-      ''"'"''t  of  ,ny  i,„s. 

whero  more  so  rmf  »,.      "   V,'"  «iviJized  world  Im 

United  Staterot  !C:::;:;"  f"Sland  itselUhi',,'        ';: 

miction  of  this  feet,  and  with    .''\"  "",'^'^'-  "  deep  c     - 

appeal   to  those  ^nerallJ.  '*'''"'""<' hope  tfiat    n 

made  altogether  fn  "1  •„'  thTt  T""''  ^o^W   never  i" 

responded  to  thitippeaT''  ''hnlv''/'"«"«an   people 
t^t  response  was  co.'^veyeTttmi''"'^^""'^  courtUX' 
our  common  kn^nao-e  i!  '^.r'""''^"'*"'"  whenever 
tliongh  difficulties, ^liehTr!"  ^■■.  """erstood ;  a,M 
advanced  state  of  the  seas  n^      '""'"'-^  "^"'ff  to  t  e 
yourofflcialanno„nc?men?ffi;"'''^J '!'«™«el7e  l/t'.r 
government,  and  prevented  tl  1  •'"  '".^de known  toon  • 
your  mtentions,  yet  the  g^ero'/J^f  "''^  execution  "• 
was  not  altogether  witlufrTwn       ^  f'^"  y°"  ''ad  eiven 
0  me  that,sl;onId  trenece'sitV'fn''  ^'"P'''"^  >•"""  "ed 
contuue  to  exist.  I  mi"ht7oo/.     •'"'"''^'"^  measures 
foi- the  needed  succor.^       °°''  "S^"'"  ««'-0'*s  the  wateS 

Hopes  'srtheTare'tutVrr.^:  -f-  our  dearest 

-mna.,nall,eS%t:SttS 


'  f  ■ 


■  I 


li 


iJ 


^  I 


I 


1 


r« 


!  1 


'.        { 


] 


r:|n| 
I 


:4J 


:.r^> 


'N 


r  :   '■' 


i! '; 


I     r. 


P 


330 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


1^ 


forced  return  of  Sir  James  Ross,  without  any  tidings  of 
tbem,  and  also  by  the  close  of  the  arctic  season.  And 
not  only  have  no  tidings  been  brought  of  their  safety  or 
of  their  fate,  but  even  the  very  traces  of  their  course 
have  yet  to  be  discovered  ;  for  such  was  the  concur- 
rence of  unfortunate  and  unusual  circumstances  attend- 
ing the  efforts  of  the  brav^e  and  able  officer  alluded  to, 
that  he  was  not  able  to  reach  those  points  where  indi- 
cations of  the  course  of  discovery  ships  would  most 
probably  be  found.  And  thus,  at  the  close  of  a  second 
cseason  since  the  departure  of  the  recent  expedition  of 
search,  we  remain  in  nearly  the  same  state  of  ignorance 
respecting  the  missing  expedition  as  at  the  moment  of 
its  starting  from  our  shores.  And  in  the  mean  time  our 
brave  countrymen,  whether  clinging  still  to  their  shi])s, 
or  dispersed  in  various  directions,  have  entered  upon  a 
lifth  winter  in  those  dark  and  dreary  solitudes,  with 
exhausted  means  of  sustenance,  while  yet  their  expected 
succor  comes  not ! 

"  It  is  in  the  time,  then,  of  their  greatest  peril,  in  the 
day  of  their  extremest  need,  that  I  venture,  encouraged 
by  your  former  kindness,  to  look  to  you  again  for  some 
active  efforts  which  may  come  in  aid  of  those  of  my 
own  country,  and  add  to  the  means  of  search.  Her 
Majesty's  Ministers  have  already  resolved  on  sending 
an  expedition  to  Behring's  Strait,  and  doubtless  have 
other  necessary  measures  in  contemplation,  supported 
as  they  are,  in  every  means  that  can  be  devised  for  this 
humane  purpose,  by  the  sympathies  of  the  nation,  and 
by  the  generous  solicitude  which  our  Queen  is  known 
to  feel  in  the  fate  of  her  brave  people  imperiled  in  their 
countrv's  service.  But,  whatever  be  the  measures  con- 
templated by  the  Admiralty,  they  cannot  be  such  as 
will  leave  no  room  or  necessity  for  more,  since  it  is 
only  by  the  multiplication  of  means,  and  those  vigorous 
and  instant  ones,  that  we  can  hope,  at  this  last  stage, 
and  in  this  last  hour,  perhaps,  of  the  lost  navigators' 
existence,  to  snatch  them  from  a  dreary  grave.  And 
surely,  till  the  shores  and  seas  of  those  frozen  regions 
have  been  swept  in  all  directions,  or  until  some  memo- 


s'^ 


LIEUTENANT   OSBOEN's    SUGGESTIONS. 


331 


rial  be  found  to  attest  tlieir  fate,  neither  England,  who 
sent  them  out,  nor  even  America,  on  whose  shores  tliey 
have  been  launched  in  a  cause  which  has  interested  the 
world  for  centuries,  will  deem  the  question  at  rest. 

"  May  it  please  God  so  to  move  the  hearts  and  wills 
of  a  great  and  kindred  people,  and  of  their  chosen 
Chief  Magistrate,  that  they  may  join  heart  and  hand 
in  the  generous  enterprise  I  The  respect  and  admiration 
of  the  world,  which  watches  with  growing  interest  every 
movement  of  your  great  republic,  will  follow  the  chiv- 
alric  and  humane  endeavor,  and  the  blessing  of  them 
who  were  ready  to  perish  shall  come  to  you ! 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  Jane  Franklin. 

''^His  Excellency  the  President  of  the  United  States.''^ 

In  a  very  admirable  letter  addressed  to  Lady  Frank- 
lin in  February,  1850,  by  Lieut.  Sherard  Osborn,  R.  N., 
occur  the  following  remarks  and  suggestions,  which 
appear  to  me  so  explicit  and  valuable  that  I  publish 
them  entire :  — 


1 


<  ii 


I  ;■ 

i 


,i. 


t 


.[V 


In 


I 


is. 


^^ Great  Ealing,  Middlesex,  6th  Fehruary,  1850. 

"  My  Dear  Lady  Franklin.  —  It  is  of  course  of  vital 
importance  that  the  generous  co-operation  of  the  Ameri- 
cans in  the  rescue  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crews 
be  directed  to  points  which  call  for  search,  and  at  the 
same  time  give  them  a  clear  field  for  the  exercise  of 
their  energy  and  emulation.  It  would  be  a  pity,  for 
instance,  if  they  should  be  merely  working  on  the  same 
ground  with  ourselves,  while  extensive  portions  of  the 
xirctic  Sea,  in  which  it  is  equally  probable  the  lost  ex- 
pedition may  be  found,  should  be  left  unexamined  ;  and 
none,  in  my  opinion,  offers  a  better  prospect  of  success- 
ful search  than  the  coasts  of  Repulse  Bay,  Ilecla  and 
Fury  Strait,  Committee  Bay,  Felix  Harbor,  the  estuary 
of  the  Great  Fish  River,  and  Simpson's  Strait,  with  the 
sea  to  the  northwest  of  it.  My  reasons  for  saying  so 
are  as  follows ;  — 

21  N* 


Ij 


v< 


1 1 


Ii 


.  ^\' 


'  Vi 


\ 


111 

Ik 


it 


332 


niOORESS  OF  AKtrric  discoveuy. 


"  Suppose  Sir  John  Franklin  to  have  so  far  carried 
out  the  tenor  of  his  orders  as  to  have  penetrated  south- 
west from  Cape  Walker,  and  to  have  been  either  ^  ctist 
away,'  or  hopelessly  impeded  by  ice,  and  that  either  in 
the  past  or  present  year  he  found  it  necessary  to  quit 
his  ships,  they  being  anywhere  between  100°  and  108^ 
west  longitude,  and  70°  and  73°  north  latitude.  Kow, 
to  retrace  his  steps  to  Cape  Walker,  and  thence  to  Ko- 
gent  Inlet,  would  be  no  doubt  the  first  suggestion  that 
would  arise.  Yet  there  are  objections  to  it :  firstly,  ho 
would  have  to  contend  against  the  prevailing  set  of  tho 
ice,  and  currents,  and  northerly  wind  ;  secondly,  if  no 
whalers  were  found  in  Lancaster  Sound,  how  was  lie 
to  support  his  large  party  in  regions  where  the  musk 
ox  or  reindeer  is  never  seen  ?  thirdly,  leaving  his 
ships  in  the  summer,  he  knew  he  could  only  reach  thu 
whaling  ground  in  the  fall  of  the  year  ;  and,  in  such 
case,  would  it  not  be  advisable  to  make  rather  fur 
the  southern  than  the  northern  limit  of  the  seas  vis- 
ited by  the  whalers  ?  fourthly,  by  edging  to  the  south 
rather  than  the  north.  Sir  John  Franklin  would  bo 
falling  back  to,  rather  than  going  from,  relief,  and  in- 
crease the  probabilities  of  providing  food  for  his  largo 
party. 

"I  do  not  believe  he  would  have  decided  on  going 
due  south,  because  the  lofty  land  of  Victoria  Island 
was  in  his  road,  and  when  he  did  reach  the  American 
shore,  he  would  only  attain  a  desert,  of  whose  horrors 
he  no  doubt  retained  a  vivid  recollection  ;  and  a 
lengthy  land  journey  of  more  than  1000  miles  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  settlements  was  more  than  his  men  were 
capable  of 

"  There  remains,  therefore,  but  one  route  for  Sir  Jolm 
nnder  such  circumstances  to  follow  ;  and  it  decided]}- 
has  the  following  merits,  that  of  being  in  a  direct  line 
for  the  southern  limit  of  the  whale  fishery  ;  that  of 
leading  through  a  series  of  narrow  seas  adapted  for  tho 
navigation  of  small  open  boats  ;  that  of  being  the  most 
expeditious  route  by  which  to  reach  Fort  Churchill,  in 
Hudson's  Bay ;  that  of  leading  through  a  region  visited 


LIEUTENAMT   OBliORM  S   SUGGESTIONS. 


333 


by  Esquimaux  and  migratory  animals  ;  and  this  route 
is  through  the  '  Strait  of  Sir  James  lioss,'  across  the 
narrow  isthmus  of  Boothia  Felix,  (which,  as  you  re- 
minded me  to-day,  was  not  supposed  to  exist  when  Sir 
John  Franklin  left  England,  and  has  been  since  discov- 
ered,) into  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  where  he  could  either 
pass  by  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait  into  the  fishing-ground 
of  Hudson's  Strait,  or  else  go  southward  down  Commit- 
tee Bay,  across  the  Rae  Isthmus  into  Repulse  Bay,  and 
endeavor  from  there  to  reach  some  vessels  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  or  otherwise  Fort  Churchill. 

"  It  is  not  unlikely  either,  that  when  Franklin  had 
got  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  James  Ross's  Strait, 
and  found  the  land  to  be  across  his  path  where  he  had 
expected  to  find  a  strait,  that  his  party  might  have  di- 
vided, and  the  more  active  portion  of  them  attempted 
to  ascend  the  Great  Fish  River,  where  we  have  Sir 
George  Back's  authority  for  supposing  they  would  find, 
close  to  the  arctic  shores,  abundance  of  food  in  fish, 
and  herds  of  reindeer,  &c.,  while  the  others  traveled 
on  the  road  I  have  already  mentioned. 

"  To  search  for  them,  therefore,  on  this  line  of  retreat, 
I  should  think  highly  essential,  and  if  neglected  this 
year,  it  must  be  done  next ;  and  if  not  done  by  the 
Americans,  it  ought  to  be  done  by  us. 

"  I  therefore  suggest  the  following  plan  : —  Suppose 
a  well-equipped  expedition  to  leave  America  in  May, 
and  to  enter  Hudson's  Strait,  and  then  divide  into  two 
divisions.  The  first  division  might  go  northward, 
through  Fox's  Channel  to  Hecla  ana  Fury  Strait,  exam 
ine  the  shores  of  the  latter  carefidly,  deposit  provisions 
at  the  western  extreme,  erect  conspicuous  beacons,  and 
proceed  to  Melville  or  Felix  Harbor,  in  Boothia,  secure 
their  vessel  or  vessels,  and  dispatch,  as  soon  as  circum- 
stances would  allow,  boat  parties  across  the  neck  of 
the  isthmus  into  the  western  waters.  Here  let  them 
divide,  and  one  party  proceed  through  James  Ross's 
Strait,  carefully  examining  the  coast,  and  push  over  sea, 
ice,  or  land,  to  the  northwest  as  far  as  possible.  The 
other  boat  party  to  examine  the  estuarj^  oi*  the  Great 


^ 

'f 

'1 

( 

i 

'  ,      »   i 

''a: 

'-, 

■ ' .  ^  t 

1    ■ 

i: 

"1:!!!^ 


■J'- 


1     ' 


c-.i    \-i.M 


Mi 


ii- 


834 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


^^I^K: 

''sWiSlilmiT 

fll 

Fish  Kiver,  and  thence  proceed  westward  along  the 
coast  of  Simpson's  Strait,  and,  if  possible,  examine  the 
broad  bay  formed  between  it  and  Dease's  Strait. 

"The  second  division,  on  parting  company,  might 
pass  south  of  Southampton  Island,  and  coast  along  from 
Chesterfield  Inlet  northward  to  Repulse  Bay,  a  boat 
party  with  two  boats  ni^ht  cross  Rae  Isthmus  into  the 
bottom  of  Committee  Bay,  with  instructions  to  visit 
both  shores  of  the  said  bay,  and  to  rendezvous  at  the 
western  entrance  of  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait.  The  sec- 
ond division  (be  it  one  or  more  vessels)  should  then 
pass  into  Fox's  Channel,  and  turning  through  Hecla 
and  Fury  Strait,  pick  up  the  boats  at  the  rendezvous ; 
and  thence,  if  the  first  division  have  passed  on  all  right, 
and  do  not  require  reinforcement,  the  second  division 
should  steer  northward  along  the  unknown  coast,  ex- 
tending as  far  as  Cape  Kater ;  from  Cape  Kater  pro- 
ceed to  Leopold  Island,  and  having  secured  their  ships 
there,  dispatch  boat  or  traveling  parties  in  a  direction 
southwest  from  Cape  Ttennell,  in  North  Somerset,  be- 
ing in  a  parallel  line  to  the  line  of  search  we  shall 
adopt  from  Cape  Walker,  and  at  the  same  time  it  will 
traverse  the  unknown  sea  beyond  the  Islands  lately 
observed  by  Captain  Sir  James  Ross. 

"Some  such  plan  as  this  would,  I  think,  insuie  yom 
gallant  husband  being  met  or  assisted,  should  he  be  to 
the  south  or  the  west  of  Cape  "Walker,  and  attempt  to 
return  by  a  southeast  course,  a  direction  which,  I  think, 
others  as  well  as  myself  would  agree  in  thinking  a  very 
rational  and  probable  one. 

"  I  will  next  speak  of  an  argument  which  has  been 
brought  forward  in  consequence  of  no  traces  of  the 
missing  expedition  having  been  discovered  in  Lancas- 
ter Sound ;  that  it  is  quite  possible,  if  Franklin  failed 
in  getting  through  the  middle  ice  from  Melville  Bay  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  that,  sooner  than  disappoint  public 
anxiety  and  expectation  of  a  profitable  result  arising 
from  his  expedition,  he  may  have  turned  northward, 
and  gone  up  Smith's  Sound ;  every  mile  beyond  its  en- 
triince  was  new  ground,  and  therefore  a  reward  to  the 


ti;^ 


yom 
be  to 
ipt  to 
|think, 

very 


t 


DEBATE   IN  CONGRESS. 


335 


discoverer.  It  likewise  brought  them  nearer  the  pole, 
and  may  be  they  found  that  open  sea  of  which  Baron 
Wrangel  speaks  so  constantly  in  his  journeys  over  the 
ice  northward  fro.n  Siberia. 

"It  is  therefore  desirable  that  some  vessels  should 
carefully  examine  the  entrance  of  this  sound,  and  visit 
all  the  conspicuous  headlands  for  some  considerable 
distance  within  it ;  for  it  ought  to  be  borne  in  mind, 
that  localities  perfectly  accessible  for  the  purpose  of 
erecting  beacons,  &c.,  one  season,  may  be  quite  im- 
practicable the  next,  and  Franklin,  late  in  the  season 
and  pressed  for  time,  would  not  have  wasted  time,  scal- 
ing bergs  to  reach  the  shore  and  pile  up  cairns,  of 
which,  in  all  the  sanguine  hope  of  success,  he  could  not 
have  foreseen  the  necessity. 

"  Should  any  clue  be  found  to  the  lost  expedition  in 
this  direction,  to  follow  it  up  would,  of  course,  be  the 
duty  of  the  relieving  party,  and  every  thing  would  de- 
pend necessarily  upon  the  judgment  of  the  commanders. 

"In  connection  with  this  line  of  search,  I  think  a, 
small  division  of  vessels,  starting  from  Spitzbergen,  and 
pushing  from  it  in  a  northwest  direction,  might  be  of 
great  service ;  for  on  reference  to  the  chart,  it  will  be 
seen  that  Spitzbergen  is  as  near  the  probable  position 
of  Franklin  (if  he  went  north  about,)  on  the  east,  as 
Behring's  Strait  is  upon  the  west ;  and  the  probability 
of  reaching  the  meridian  of  80°  west  from  Spitzbergen 
is  equally  as  good  as,  if  not  better  than,  Behring's  Strait, 
and,  moreover,  a  country  capable  of  supporting  life 
always  in  the  rear  to  fall  back  upon. 

"  Sherard  Osrorn, 
"Lieutenant  Eoyal  Navy. 

"To  Lady  Franklin." 

Debate  m  the  American  Congress. 

The  following  remarks  of  honorable  members  and 
senators,  in  defense  of  the  bill  for  carrying  out  Mr. 
Grinnell's  expedition,  will  explain  the  grounds  on  which 
the  government  countenance  was  invoked  for  the  noble 
ixndertaking :  — 


V     ! 


I  ;  i 


A 


:!•;,»   ! 


Mi 


;   I 


'I'i 


4h' 


83C 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTTIO  DISCOVERY. 


"Mr.  Miller  :  I  prefer  that  the  government  shnnld 
have  the  entire  control  of  this  enterprise  ;  but,  8ii-,  1 
do  not  think  that  can  be  accomplished  ;  at  all  events,  it 
cannot  within  tiio  time  re(piired  to  produce  the  good 
results  which  are  to  be  hoped  from  this  exj)editiun.  It 
is  well  known  to  all  that  the  uncertain  fate  of  Sir  Jolm 
Franklin  and  his  companions  has  attracted  the  attention 
and  called  forth  the  sympathies  of  the  civilized  world. 
This  government,  Sir,  has  been  indifferent  to  the  call. 
An  application,  an  appeal  was  made  to  this  government 
of  no  ordinary  character ;  one  which  was  cheerfully 
entertained  by  the  President,  and  which  he  was  anxioui 
should  be  complied  with.  But  it  is  known  to  the  conn 
try  and  to  the  Senate  that,  although  the  President  had 
every  disposition  to  send  out  an  expedition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  it  was  found  npon  inquiry  that 
we  had  no  ships  fitted  for  the  occasion,  and  that  the 
Executive  had  no  authority  to  procure  them  for  an  ex- 
pedition of  this  kind,  and  suitable  for  this  sort  of  navi- 
gation. The  Executive  was  therefore  obliged,  for  want 
of  authority  to  build  the  ships,  to  forego  further  action 
on  this  noble  enterprise,  until  Congress  should  meet, 
and  authorize  the  expedition. 

"In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Grinnell,  one  of  the  most 
respectable  and  worthy  merchants  of  the  city  of  New 
York,  understanding  the  difficulty  that  the  government 
had  in  fitting  out  the  expedition,  has  gone  to  work,  and 
with  his  own  means  has  built  t\^'o  small  vessels  espe- 
cially prepared  for  the  expedition ;  and  he  now  most 
generously  tenders  them  to  the  government,  not  to  be 
under  his  own  control,  but  the  control  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  to  be  made  part  of  the  navy  of  the  United 
States.  The  honorable  senator  from  Alabama  (Mr. 
King)  is  mistaken  with  regard  to  the  terms  and  effect 
of  this  resolution.  This  resolution  places  these  two 
ships  under  the  control  of  the  government,  as  much 
so  as  if  they  were  built  expressly  for  the  navy  of  the 
United  States.  Their  direction,  their  fitting  out,  their 
officers  and  mon,  are  all  to  be  under  the  control  of 
the  Executive.    Their  officers  are  to  be  offict/rs  of  our 


I 


DEBATE    'N    CONG  K  ESS. 


53T 


navv  —  their  seamen  tlie  seamen  of  onrnavy  —  so  tliat 
the  expedition  will  bo  as  thtn'oughly  under  the  control  (.»!' 
this  pjovernincnt  as  it' the  sliips  belon<jjed  to  us.  N«>vv, 
Sir,  I  should  have  no  objections  myself  to  anjend  this 
resolution  so  as  to  authorize  the  ]iurchase  of  these  two 
suKill  vessels  at  once,  and  make  them  a  part  of  our  na- 
val establishment;  but,  when  I  recollect  the  majunaui- 
mous  feeling  which  urged  this  noble-hearted  merchant 
to  prepare  tliese  Bhii)s,  I  know  that  that  same  feeling 
would  forbid  him  to  make  merchandise  of  that  which 
he  lias  devoted  to  humanity.  He  ofters  them  for  this 
great  cause  ;  they  are  his  property,  prepared  for  this 
enterprise,  and  he  ofters  them  to  us  to  be  used  by  the 
government  in  this  great  undertaking.  We  must  either 
accept  them  for  the  purpose  to  which  he  has  dedicated 
them,  or  reject  them  altogether.  If  we  refuse  these 
ships,  we  will  defeat  the  whole  enterprise,  and  lose  all 
opportunity  of  participation  in  a  work  of  humanity 
which  now  commands  the  attention  of  the  world. 

"If  we  refer  this  resolution  back  to  the  committee, 
and  they  report  a  bill  authorizing  government  to  build 
ships  to  carry  on  the  expedition  on  its  own  account,  it 
would  be  attended  with  very  great  delay,  and,  in  my 
opinion  defeat  the  object  we  have  in  view.  In  a  case 
of  this  kind  time  is  every  thing.  It  must  be  done  speed- 
ily, if  done  at  all.  Every  hour's  delay  may  be  worth 
the  life  of  a  man.  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  compan- 
ions may  ere  this  have  perished,  but  our  hope  is  that 
they  are  still  living  in  some  narrow  sea,  imprisoned  by 
walls  of  ice,  where  our  succor  may  yet  reach  them. 
But,  Sir,  whether  our  hopes  are  fallacious  or  not,  the 
public  feeling  —  the  feeling  of  humanity  —  is,  that  the 
fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  should,  if  possible,  be  ascer- 
tained, and  as  soon  as  possible.  The  public  mind  will 
never  be  satisfied  till  an  expedition  from  this  country, 
01'  from  some  other  country,  shall  have  ascertained  their 
fate.  I  therefore  trust  that  this  resolution,  as  it  is,  will 
be  acted  upon  at  once,  and  that  it  will  receive  the 
unanimous  vote  of  the  Senate.     *  *  *  -^ 

''I  am  so  impressed  Mr.  President,  with  the  impor- 


I 


.■! 


t 


I  •  I      '  ' 


l-,\ 


338 


PK0OUES8   OF    AUCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


m 
ii 


tance  of  time  as  regards  the  disposal  of  this  question, 
that   1  hesitate  even  to   occupy  the  attention  of  tho 
Senate  for  a  few  moments  ;  and  I  only  do  so  for  the 
purpose  of  correcting  some  views  wliich  have  hcen  ex- 
pressed  by  tlie  senator  from  Mississippi.   *   ^^   *  Tliu 
question  is,  whether  we  siiall  udoj)t  tiiis  resolution,  and 
immediately  send  forth  this  expedition  for  the  purjxiso 
of  accomplishing  this  great  object,  or  whether  we  slmll 
throw  back   this  resohition   to   drag   its  slow  course 
through  Congress,  in  the  form  of  another  bill,  to  nuike 
an  appropriation  for  the  purpose  of  building  vessels. 
For  wnat  object?    To  secure,  as  the  senator  says,  to  the 
United  States,  the  sole  honor  and  glory  of  this  ex])LMli- 
tion.     Sir,  if  this  expedition  is  got  up  merely  for  lionor 
and  glory  either  to  the  United  States  or  to  an  individual, 
I  will  have  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  it.     Sir,  there 
is  a  deeper  and  a  higher  sentiment  that  has  induced  the 
action  of  Congress  on  this  subject.     It  is  to  engage  in 
a  great  work  of  humanity,  to  do  that  which  is  not  only 
being  done  by  the  government  of  England,  but  by  pri- 
vate individuals,  who  are  fitting  out  expeditions  at  their 
own  expense,  and  sending  them  to  the  northern  seas, 
for  the  purpose  of  discovering  the  fate  of  this  great 
man,  who  had  periled  his  life  in  the  cause  of  science 
and  of  commerce. 

"  Mr  President,  I  have  been  informed  that  a  private 
expedition  is  now  being  fitted  out  in  England  under  the 
direction  of  that  great  commander,  or  I  may  call  him 
the  king  of  the  Polar  Seas,  Sir  John  Ross,  who  is  going 
again  to  devote  himself  and  his  life  to  this  perilous  ex- 
pedition. Sir,  altogether  I  have  not  had  heretofore 
much  confidence  in  the  success  of  this  expedition,  yet 
when  I  consider  the  reputation  of  Sir  John  Ross,  and 
the  fact  that  he  is  better  acquainted  with  those  seas 
than  any  other  man  living,  and  understanding  that  he 
entertains  the  belief  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
companions  are  yet  alive,  and  may  be  rescued,  —  I  sa/, 
finding  such  a  man  as  Sir  John  Ross  engaged  in  an  ex- 
pedition of  this  kind,  I  am  not  without  hope  that  our 
efforts  may,  under  Providence,  be  crowned  with  success. 


DKIIATE   IN   CONORESb.  33^ 

and  that  that  ,8  to  bo  divkl.     i   .  "^  ''"""''  «'"'  «lo.'v- 

tliero  nothing  to  he  dei-iv..,!  {        !,  "'f''vidual.    Sir  fu 
act  of  ),un.a1;itv  I^,    I  "o     i"  i"'"  P^'-'^n'mn,.,,,  f, 
tljat  in  this  instance  both  the  ::/''"''^  *    «''''.  't  i«  «.M 
Vidua!  alhided  to  are  w  If^'if  1"  """'^•"t  «nd  tho  in.li- 
Sir,  what  objection  can  fT,!      i    '"  ""'"c  '»"0''1<-     AVcil 
Poes  the  honorable  sZtotV  ^\^i'-  "'"'  '^"""ec  o   ? 
individual  his  share  .IfT  \     "'"  ^'ssissippi  envv  Vl , 
desire  to  inonopot:  if  Ji^t  ';;;■- «'.f  «'o.-}?  Xil" 

of  an  expre;8lo,*h  i'^, '.'7^'^'''  ««"'"«'•  made  n,o 
inthnate^,  if  I  undSoV  ,'  thi  "  "'""'--  "je 
«^t  this  was  a  matter  of  speZat'ift  r^^^ 

from  Mississippi  knew Te  <.' ,  ^^''  *'""  ^^  "'e  senator 
this  fentlemai:  hfCu  d  no  ?^^  ^"^  ""''  ''"^  '"'"to"]^  of 
l;ear3  such  an  ins"nna?ion     %""  '{i?""'  """  hei^ 
i'b««l  donation  from  aSvid,^,*r"8''  '^is  is  a 
alarm  gentlemen  about  aC'l."'  ^''l  ""^  "««d  not 
but  small  ships ;  and  it  ;,  ^1       '"™'-,    ^hese  ships  are 
small  in  orde?that  they  may  bfl^  ^*  *«^  «''«""  bo 
IS,  I  understand,  160  to^is  and  thf "f.^^    ^''^  ^f  them 
iave  cost,  I  l.eHevo   30  oon  i  i?  °"'*'"  ^^  tons.    Thev 
find  this  merchant  deS  V  "'"■'•    ^°^.  ^^en  we 
Purpose  of  building  slZto^eo't  ^'■°^'''^' '"''  ^'^  t^'^ 
markets  of  the  worid    when  wpT^.'-™''''"''"^  to  the 
the  ordinary  course  jZ        we  find  him  retirini/  fmn. 
the  world  i^  ~  d   and^d^w-P""-^"'*  »  ^  aH 
fortune  to  the  buildi-n.  ofitT"^  "  P^'^^on  of  hk 
other  purpose  but  in  t&s  yoXe^f.''^"  ''«  "«ed  for  no 
imagined  that  any  thou^K^'l V?**"''^' '^«"  "'t  he 
co«ld  have  influeifced  hfs  condS^tr^NoX"  'oaC 


'•T 


II 


iiii 


I 


I  ir«  s;  B 


!      1 

J,  , 


!    < 


i  i.  J 


S40 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


contrary,  it  is  a  high  and  worthy  motive  ;  and  I  think 
it  ought  to  re^'eive  the  approbation  of  this  and  all  other 
intelligent  Christian  nations,  to  see  a  niercliant,  who, 
wliile  the  commercial  world  are  encompassing  the 
globe  by  sea  and  land  in  quest  of  profit  and  of  gold,  is 
dedicating  himself  to  his  great  object,  and  devoting  a 
part  of  his  fortune  to  the  cause  of  humanity,  and  olibr- 
ing  to  government,  not  as  a  bounty,  but  because  tlie 
government,  with  all  its  means,  has  not  the  power  and 
the  time  to  prepare  vessels  to  do  this  work.  That,  !Sir, 
is  the  object. 

"  Now,  if  we  do  not  accept  these  ships,  there  will  be 
an  end  of  this  expedition.  Sir,  shall  it  be  said,  that 
this  government  has  lost  such  an  opportunity  as  this  of 
exhibiting  the  deep  interest  w^hich  our  people  feel  both 
in  the  cause  of  science  and  humanity,  and  that,  too,  at 
the  very  time  when  we  are  entering  into  treaties  and  com- 
pacts with  all  the  commercial  nations  of  the  world,  for 
the  purpose  of  extending  commerce  and  civilization , 
and  opening  communications  of  trade  from  sea  to  sea^ 
When  the  government  is  not  only  doing  all  by  its  own 
power,  but  also  acting  in  concert  with  our  private  citi- 
zens in  constructing  rail-roads  and  canals,  and  by  vari- 
ous other  modes  extending  commercial  civilization 
throughout  the  world,  shall  it  be  said  that  we,  at  this 
moment,  refused,  through  the  fear  of  losing  a  little 
honor  and  glory  and  nationtrl  dignity,  to  accept  two 
ships  — the  only  two  ships  in  Americi  that  can  do  the 
work  —  in  the  accomplishment  of  thic*  great  enterprise? 
I  hope  not.  Let  us  not,  then,  cavil  and  waste  time 
about  these  little  matters.  If  the  work  is  to  be  done 
at  all  it  must  be  done  now,  and  done,  as  I  conceiv^e,  by 
the  adoption  of  this  resolution. 

Governor  Seward  spoke  as  follows  in  the  Senate 
on  the  same  subject :  —  "I  am  happy  to  perceive,  Mr. 
President,  indications  all  around  the  chamber  that  there 
is  no  disagreement  in  regard  to  the  importance,  or  in 
relation  to  the  propriety,  of  a  search  on  the  part  of  this 
nation,  by  the  government  itself,  or  by  individual  citi- 
zens, for  the  lost  and  heroic  navigator.    Since  so  much 


•  -  341 

tWs7,"y,iJi:°t,^«'=«  I  co^o  from  the  State  w).enoe 
few  words,  the  obSn,' .   ■"'Y''  *°  no«<=e,  an  a  ver^ 

tl'e  case  I  think  when  S T  f  "''•  ^'  ^^  "'wavg 
pnses  which  are foasiWe^.f ,;? f "". ■'""'  ?■•<'«'  en  1^- 
tJiey  are  hindered  or  defeaterff' '*'''  °'"  '^'^'^ated,  t  h^  t 
agreement  conceminrf  f  '  "°'  «°  wnch  bv  w nf  nf 
diversify  of  opinion  ci'e^rS*;^^^  ^emselTe  ;"« s'bj 
them  mto  execntion  S°7,  •*'' •  '"'"^«  "*■  «« Winff 
case  the  rule  which  I  always  Idn  f  «'\6«''««ll/thf 

wa^  of  obtaining  a  sreat  ™,jfi-  u"""  ^'*^e  my  own 
the  best  other  way  whfrh  l^'"  ?''•'«'"'  I  «'ill  acceT,t 
cordially  agree  wi^hfi?  ''f'  ^'efore  me  S^t 
would  h^avl'^r'ea  tt  a^"''™'"^  Se^ato^^Tio^ 
and  m  some  proper  and  ,Lk- '".'?*'  appiopiiate  time 
government  sfoufd  haye  moWlTt"'.?'"''  ™»"»er  Z' 
this  object,  as  a  governmenrnn  ^T  "'®  attainment  of 

f  r^i^'  th?  "•='  °^  '^«  S  '  And  I  w  ""f."^  ''  «^<=J«- 
leired  this,  not  so  inuoli  nn  n  "^  ^^^"^^^  ^lave  iirp. 

jssupposed  wouldT/a^t  fol,r:ru1t  «'"-^^'^^ 
SBrif  f"*'^  «f  the    ente  S      hTf  "''''i"'^«  °f  the 
spims;  from  a  desire  of  ^}n?,r        ^'n'ei'Pnses  which 

disappointment.    Tnej};2  f  1  ''^'^  «P'  to  end  in 
attained  by  prosecu   n. Tn  "fi'  ^'fj  '^  «'ways  safe  y 
may  be  their  succe;   ° I    "f^o*;"' designs  4atev^ 
haye  preferred  the  altP-ntr  ■^'  ""'  "'^D'  that  I  wonid 
'\  without  stopping  to  no  ,'r'  '"f^^''^^ '  b"t  'hrfect 
whether  therefe  flu  t  at  ^    Ih";^"'"  *^"  '■^»"  ''eB  or 
moved,  and  ^e  reason  which  hLT""""^^"'  ^"^  "ot 
W  r.0  doubt,  the  true  one     V .^^"  ^'^'8"«d  is,  I 
nas  ever  been  contradinf^/i  ,,      "°t  know  that  if 

reason  is,  that  theNtlS?^  "rl^^^  '"  q-e^tion  tLt 
no  vessels  adapted  to  VA^'  ^"""^  States  conta^s 
Bh"ps  constructed  and  fitted  i''^'"'^^"' ''onsistsof 
?n'J  po.-poses  than  an  exn^.-  ''^'"-^  '^''ff^'-ent  objects 
lee-bonnd  seas  of  the  a.lv  °^  expedition  amid  the 
consists  of  vessel  adapted  ?o?h'-  '^"''  "^^a'  mar  no 
-"tary  armament,  A': :^;SZlf^^Z:i^ 


H 


342 


PROGRESS   OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


trade  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  The  executive  portions 
of  the  government  failed  for  want  of  vessels  suitable 
to  be  employed  in  this  particular  service.  It  therefore 
devolved  upon  the  Legislature  of  the  United  States. 
But,  although  we  have  been  here  now  nearly  five 
months,  no  Committee  of  either  House,  no  member  of 
either  House  of  Congress  has  proposed  to  equip  a  na- 
tional fleet  for  this  purpose.  While  this  fact  exists  on 
one  side,  it  is  to  be  remarked  on  the  other,  that  the 
time  has  arrived  in  which  the  movement  must  be  made 
if  it  is  to  be  made  at  all,  and  also  that  a  careful  inves- 
tigation, made  by  scientific  and  practical  men,  had  re- 
vived the  hope  in  Europe  and  America  that  the  humane 
object  can  be  attained.  There  can,  then,  be  no  delay 
allowed  for  considering  whether  the  manner  for  carry- 
ing the  design  into  effect  could  not  be  changed.  Let 
U9,  then,  practically  survey  the  case  as  it  comes  before 
us.  The  gr  ernment  of  the  United  States  has  really 
no  vessels  aunpted  to  tiie  purpose.  To  say  nothing  of 
the  expense,  the  government  has  not  time  to  provide, 
prepare,  or  equip  vessels  for  the  expedition.  Under 
such  circumstances,  a  citizen  of  the  United  States 
tenders  to  the  government  vessels  of  his  own,  precisely 
adequate  in  number,  and  exactly  fitted  in  construction 
and  equipment,  for  the  performance  of  the  duty  to  be 
assumed.  Since  he  ofiers  them  to  the  government, 
what  reason  can  we  assign  for  refusing  them?  No 
reason  can  be  assigned,  except  that  he  is  too  generous, 
and  ofiPers  to  give  us  the  use  of  the  vessels  instead  of 
demanding  compensation  for  it.  "Well,  Sir,  if  we  do 
accept  them  it  can  be  immediately  carried  into  execu- 
tion, with  a  cheering  prospect  of  attaining  the  great 
object  which  the  United  States  and  the  civilized  world 
have  such  deep  interest  in  securing.  Then  the  ques- 
tion resolves  itself  into  this  —  the  question  raised  by 
the  honorable  Senator  from  Alabama  (Mr.  King)  — 
whether,  in  seeking  so  beneficent  an  object,  it  is  con- 
sistent with  ti\e  dignity  of  the  nation  to  combine  indi- 
vidual action  with  a  national  enterprise.  I  do  not 
think,  Mr.  President,  that  that  honorable  Senator  will 


r 


of            i 

do 

5U- 

iat 

•Id 

3S- 

>y 

n- 

i- 
ot 

1^ 

DEBATE   IN   CONGRESS. 


343 


find  himself  obliged  to  insist  upon  this  objection  after 
lie  shall  have  carefully  examined  the  bill  before  us. 
He  will  find  that  it  converts  the  undertaking  into  a 
national  enterprise.  The  vessels  are  to  be  accepted 
not  as  individual  property,  but  as  national  vessels. 
They  will  absolutely  cease  to  be  under  the  direction, 
management,  or  control  of  the  owners,  and  will  become 
at  once  national  ships,  and  for  the  time,  at  least,  and 
■for  all  the  purposes  of  the  expedition,  a  part  of  the 
national  marine. 

"Now,  Sir,  have  we  not  postal  arrangements  with 
various  foreign  countries  carried  into  effect  in  the  same 
way,  and  is  the  dignity  of  the  nation  compromised  by 
them  ?  During  the  war  with  Mexico,  the  government 
continually  hired  ships  and  steamboats  from  citizens  foi 
militaiy  operations.  Is  the  glory  of  that  war  tarnished 
oy  tbe  use  of  those  means  ?  The  government  in  this 
case,  as  in  those  cases,  is  in  no  sense  a  partner.  It 
assumes  the  whole  control  of  the  vessels,  and  the  enter- 
prise becomes  a  national  one.  The  only  circumstance 
remaining  to  be  considered  is,  whether  th<^  government 
can  accept  the  loan  of  the  service  of  the  vessels  without 
making  compensation.  Now,  Sir,  I  should  not  have  had 
the  least  objection,  and,  indeed,  it  would  have  been 
more  agreeable  to  me  if  the  government  could  have 
made  an  arrangement  to  have  paid  a  compensation. 
But  I  hold  it  to  be  quite  unnecessary  in  the  present 
case  because  the  character  of  the  person  who  tenders 
these  vessels,  and  the  circumstances  and  manner  of  the 
whole  transaction,  show  tliat  it  is  not  a  speculation. 
No  compensation  is  wanted.  It  would  only  be  a  cere- 
mony on  the  part  of  the  government  to  offer  it,  and  a 
ceremony  on  the  part  of  the  merchant  to  decline  it.  I 
am,  therefore,  willing  to  march  directly  to  the  object, 
and  to  assume  that  these  ceremonies  have  been  duly 
performed,  that  the  government  has  offered  to  pay,  and 
the  noble-spirited  merchant  declined  to  receive. 

"  Now,  then,  is  there  any  thing  derogatory  from  the 
dignity  and  independence  of  this  nation  in  emj>loying 
the  vessels?     Certainly  not,  since  that  employment  is 


'I 

\  'II 


1 


'■    V     t     it 


V 


'  ■  .  r  li 


844 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVKJtV. 


indispensable.      If  it  were  not  indispensable  1  do  not 
think  that  the  dignity  of  the  Republic  would  be  ini- 

E aired  ;  I  think,  on  the  contrary,  that  it  would  be  en- 
anced  and  elevated.  It  w  a  transaction  wortliy  of  the 
nation,  a  spectacle  deserving  the  contemplation  and 
respect  of  mankind,  to  see  that  not  only  does  the  nation 
prosecute,  but  that  it  has  citizens  able  and  willing  to 
contribute,  voluntarily  and  without  compulsion,  to  an 
enterprise  so  interesting  to  the  cause  of  science  and  of 
humanity.  It  is  indeed  a  new  and  distinct  cause  for 
national  pride,  that  an  individual  citizen,  not  a  merchant 
prince,  as  he  would  be  called  in  some  other  countries, 
tiut  a  republican  merchant,  comes  forward  in  this  way 
and  moves  the  government  and  co-operates  with  it.  It 
illustrates  the  magnanimity  of  the  natibn  and  of  the 
citizen.  Sir,  there  is  nothing  objectionable  in  this  fea- 
ture of  the  transaction.  It  results  from  the  character 
of  the  government,  which  is  essentially  popular,  that 
^here  are  perpetual  debates  on  the  question  how  far 
measures  and  enterprises,  for  the  purposes  of  humanity 
and  science,  are  consistent  with  the  constitutional  or- 
ganization of  the  government,  although  they  are  ad- 
mitted to  be  eminently  compatible  with  the  dignity, 
character,  and  intelligence  of  the  nation.  All  our  en- 
terprises, more  or  less,  are  carried  into  execution,  if 
they  are  carried  into  execution  at  all,  not  by  the  direct 
action  of  the  government,  but  by  the  teding  of  its 
favor,  countenance,  and  aid  to  individuals,  to  corpora- 
tions, and  to  States.  Thus  it  is  that  we  construct  rail- 
roads and  canals,  and  found  colleges  and  imiversities. 
"  Nor  is  this  mode  of  prosecuting  enterprises  of  great 
pitli  and  moment  peculiar  to  this  government.  Tlierc 
was  a  navigator  who  went  forth  from  a  port  in  Spain, 
some  three  or  four  hundred  years  ago,  on  an  enter23rise 
quite  as  doubtful  and  quite  as  perilous  as  this.  After 
IrjHng  unsuccessfully  several  States,  he  was  forced  to  be 
content  with  the  sanction,  and  little  more  than  the  sanc- 
tion and  patronage  of  the  Court  of  Madrid.  The  scanty 
treasures  devoted  to  that  undertaking  were  the  private 
contributions  of  a  Queen  and  her  subjects,  and  the  ves- 


ki'^^om  of  Castile 'and  t'of'*'  a  ..ew  world  to  tho 


"rt"...o..  "  recommittal  inri  ,\  ...      °''*"'^es,  i  s  la  i  vof^* 

enrest  way  of  proventiL"  «  JctilT'  "f  ^''-^  ^'^^  To 

8i.bln„e  and  beneficont'o  Lt Ivh-'  ?°^  «♦  """''nJiiff  tl,o 

The  committoe  of  both  K^^'f p''  contomplaW" 

Ml.  Gnnnoll's  petition  for  mnf      ,  *'"-«''ess,  to  whom 

Tl^  f  n   °"  ""^"'  dHrins  antCno,       '■°'' ''    ™d  the 
ilio  tollowine  am  f  l,„  f  •  i    gonoroiis  errand 

both  Honses  ot^Cot  .l^an.  '•«^°'"«o''«  vlfi"    passed 
cm    Taylor,  autho  S in!  th"  pT''", ''P^'-^^'^'  b/oon 

Beasinsearch:t'^|;,iS3;!r,'^r 

Kesolved  by  the  Spn,fV.'l"'""s  companions- 

at>ves  of  the  Pn  ed  CI  ''".'^ /'^'^e  of  W,*Z^^^^^^ 
assembled,  That    lo S dLt'l'^'"''"'''''  «  cVn^rc's 

«»thon.ocl  and  directed,  to  S.o'f.   '1'"'  '«  ''«"«''>■ 
pt  the  city  of  New  VorV  n    .    °*'°'"HcnryGrinnpll 

h.mfora^exped]Ut',i;:Ts" 

ana  his  companions  nnri  *^7^^\ot  Sir  Johji  Fr««].i,<, 

comnussioneS  ZX^^ll  om""  *'-°'"  "'°  Navy  "sn    ' 
men  as  may  be  necessary  for  5  f''  ""'^  ^«  many  ^Ja 
may  be  willing  to  eS  f.     *^-  «^PCf'>'«on,  and  wlu. 
and  men  shall  So  fnSd  l^T":    ^''^  ^a-d  offi co  » 
discretion  of  the  PresWen?  I      '""'''''<'  ■•»''ons,  at  f  I  o 
«'rco  yoa,^,  and  shXyl't  ^  J"'"?^  "ot  exceed-  <' 
wstroments  as  are  now  on  t  wJ       i  "*  '""''  "ccessary 
the  Navy,  to  be  acconnted  f"      """^  <=""  ''o  spared  from 
""  A*S"  r '?-  -me"-  '•^""-''  ''^  t"c  offl.' 
offlcers,-and  4'"rha  '&':,f '  That  the  said  vessel, 
and  regulations  of  thoNavv  of  ri«f?""dcr  the  la'rs' 
"leir  rotm-n,  when  the  sn^-7  "    "l"  ^"'f"'  States  until 
to  the  said  Henry  (iZX.  p'''^'  ^>"  be  delivered 
States  Shan  not  i  liable  ^  a^  da  ^^o^''"'"  ^^'"^-' 

^"7  cjaim  for  compensation 


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1  ii 


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346 


PROGKESS  OF  ARCTIC  DI8C0VEKY. 


in  case  of  the  loss,  damage  or  deterioration  of  the  said 
vessels,  or  either  of  them,  from  any  cause  or  in  any 
manner  whatever,  nor  be  liable  to  any  demand  for  the 
use  or  risk  of  the  said  vessels  or  either  of  them." 

Directly  the  fact  became  known  that  the  American 
government  had  nobly  come  forward  to  aid  in  the  searcli 
which  was  being  so  strenuouslv  made,  the  different 
learned  societies  of  the  metropolis  vied  with  each  other 
in  testifying  the  estimation  in  which  this  noble  conduct 
was  held. 

At  the  annual  meeting  of  the  Koyal  Society,  on  the 
7th  of  June,  upon  the  motion  of  Sir  Charles  Lennox, 
seconded  by  the  late  Marquis  of  Northampton,  a  vote 
of  thanks  was  carried  with  the  utmost  enthusiasm,  ex- 
pressive of  the  gratitude  of  the  Society  to  the  American 
government,  and  of  tlieir  deep  sense  of  the  kind  and 
brotherly  feeling  which  had  prompted  so  liberal  an  act 
of  humanity.  A  similar  vote  was  carried,  on  the  11th 
of  June,  at  a  general  meeting  of  the  Royal  Geograph- 
ical Society,  (of  which  Sir  John  Franklin  was  long  one 
of  the  vice-presidents.) 

The  American  expedition  consists  of  two  brigantines 
—  now  enrolled  in  the  United  States  Navy  —  the  Ad- 
vance, of  144  tons,  and  the  Rescue,  91  tons.  These 
vessels  have  been  provided  and  fitted  out  by  the  gener- 
ous munificence  of  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  a  merchant  of 
New  York,  at  an  expense  to  him  of  between  50001.  and 
GOOOl.  The  American  government  also  did  much  to- 
tvard  fitting  and  equipping  them.  The  Advance  was 
two  years  old,  and  the  Rescue  quite  new.  Both  vessels 
were  strengthened  in  every  part,  and  put  in  the  most 
complete  order  for  the  service  in  which  they  were  to  be 
engaged.  They  are  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant 
Edward  S.  De  Haven,  who  was  employed  in  Com- 
ijiander  Wilkes'  expedition  in  1843  ;  Mr.  S.  P.  Griffin, 
acting  master,  has  charge  of  the  Rescue.  The  other 
officers  of  the  expedition  are  Messrs.  "W.  H.  Murdaugh, 
acting-master ;  T.  "W.  Broadhead,  and  R.  R.  Carter, 
passed  midshipmen  ;  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  j>assed  assistant- 
surgeon  ;  Mr.  Benjamin  Finland,  assistant-surgeon ;  W 


THE   AMERICAN   EXPEDITION. 


847 


a 


S.  Lovell,  midsliipman  ;  II.  Brooks,  boatswain  ;  and 
complement  of  thirty-six  seamen  in  the  two  vessels  — 
the  crew  of  the  Advance  consisting  of  fifteen  men,  and 
the  Rescue  thirteen  men.  The  vessels  left  New  York 
on  the  25th  of  May,  1850.  Their  proposed  destination 
is  through  Barrow's  Strait,  westward  to  Cape  Walker, 
and  round  Melville  Island.  They  were  provisioned  for 
three  years. 

Whatever  may  be  the  result  of  this  expedition,  as 
connected  with  the  fate  of  the  gallant  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, it  is  one  which  reflects  the  highest  honor  upon  the 
philanthropic  individual  who  projected  it,  and  upon  the 
oflicers  and  men  engaged  therein. 

A  dispatch  has  been  i?ceived  from  Lieutenant  De 
Haven,  dated  off  Leopold  Island,  August  22d,  which 
reports  the  progress  of  the  expedition  thus  far.  The 
Advance,  in  company  with  her  consort,  the  Rescue, 
sailed  from  the  Whale  Fish  Islands  on  the  29th  of  June; 
after  many  delays  and  obstructions  from  calms,  stream 
ice,  and  the  main  pack,  they  forced  a  passage  through 
it  for  a  considerable  distance,  but  at  last  got  wedged  up 
in  the  pack  immovably  until  the  29th  of  July,  when 
by  a  sudden  movement  of  the  floes,  an  opening  pre- 
sented itself,  and  under  a  press  of  sail  the  vessels  forced 
their  way  into  clear  water.  They  encountered  a  heavy 
gale,  which,  with  a  thick  fog,  made  their  situation  very 
dangerous,  the  huge  masses  of  ice  being  driven  along 
by  me  strength  of  the  wind  and  current  with  great 
fury.  By  the  aid  of  warping  in  calm  weather,  they 
reached  Cape  Yorke  on  the  15th  of  August,  and  a  little 
to  the  eastward  met  with  two  Esquimaux,  but  could  not 
understand  much  from  them.  Between  Cape  Yorke 
and  Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  while  delayed  by  calms,  being 
in  open  water,  they  hauled  the  ships  into  the  shore  at 
the  Crimson  Cliff's  of  Beverlev,  (so  named  from  the  red 
snow  on  them,)  and  filled  their  water  casks  from  a 
mountain  stream. 

On  the  18th,  with  a  fair  wind,  they  shaped  their  course 
for  the  western  side  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and  met  the  pack  in 
streams  and  very  loose,  which  they  cleared  entirely  by 
22  O 


1 1 


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r.  Y\' 


■\i 


848 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


the  following  day  —  getting  into  the  north  waters,  whore 
they  fell  in  with  Captain  Penny's  two  vesjels,  which 
having  been  unsuccessful  in  their  efforts  to  enter  Jones' 
Souno,  were  now  taking  the  same  course  up  Lancaster 
Sound.  On  the  19th,  in  a  violent  gale,  the  Advance 
parted  company  with  the  Eescue.  On  the  morning  of 
the  21st  of  August,  the  fog  cleared,  and  Lieutenant  De 
Haven  found  he  was  off  Cape  Crawford,  on  the  south 
ern  shore  of  the  Sound.  Here  he  fell  in  with  the  Felix 
schooner,  under  Captain  Sir  John  Ross,  from  whom  he 
learned  that  Commodore  Austin  was  at  Pond's  Bay  with 
two  of  his  vessels,  seeking  for  information,  while  the 
other  two  had  been  dispatched  to  examine  the  north 
shore  of  the  Sound.  Lieutenant  De  Haven  proposed 
proceeding  on  from  Port  Leopold  to  Wellington  Chan- 
nel, the  appointed  place  of  rende/v^ous  with  his  consort. 


Captain  I'orsith's  Remarkable  Yoyage  in  thk 
"Prince  Ajjjert." 

In  April,  1850,  a  branch  expedition  to  aid  those  ves- 
sels sent  out  by  the  government  Tvas  determined  on  by 
Lady  Franklin,  who  contributed  largely  toward  its  out- 
fit ;  a  considerable  sum  being  also  raised  by  public 
fiubscription.  The  expenses  of  this  expedition  were 
nearly  4000^.,  of  which  2500^.  were  contributed  by  Lady 
Frar  ilin  herself.  The  object  of  this  expedition  was 
the  providing  for  the  search  of  a  portion  of  the  Arctic 
Sea,  which  it  was  distinctly  understood  could  not  be 
executed  by  the  vessels  under  Captain  Austin  ;  but  the 
importance  of  which  had  been  set  forth,  by  arctic  and 
other -a athorities,  in  documents  printed  in  the  Parlia- 
mentary Papers. 

The  unprovided  portion  alluded  to,  includes  Regent 
Inlet,  and  the  passages  connecting  it  with  the  western 
sea,  James  Ross's  Strait,  and  other  localities,  S  W.  of 
Cape  Walker,  to  which  quarter  Sir  tlohn  Franklin  was 
required  by  his  instructions  to  proceed  in  the  first  in- 
stance. This  search  is  assumed  to  be  neoessaiy  on  the 
following  grounds :  ■ — 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  TJilNCE  ALBERT. 


849 


1.  The  probability  of  Sir  John  Franklin  having 
Abandoned  his  vessels  to  the  S.  W.  of  Cape  Walker. 

2.  The  fact  that,  in  his  charts,  an  open  passage  is 
laid  down  from  the  west  into  the  south  part  of  Regent 
Inlet. 

3.  Sir  John  Franklin  would  be  more  likely  to  take 
this  course  through  a  country  known  to  possess  the  re- 
sources of  animal  life,  with  the  wreck  of  the  Victorv 
in  Felix  Harbor  for  fuel,  and  the  stores  of  Fury  Beach 
farther  north  in  view,  than  to  full  upon  an  utterly  barren 
region  of  the  north  coast  of  America. 

4.  He  would  be  more  likely  to  expect  succor  to  be 
sent  to  him  by  way  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's 
Strait,  into  which  Regent  Inlet  opens,  than  in  any 
other  direction. 

In  corroboration  of  the  necessity  of  this  part  of  tho 
search,  I  would  refer  generally  to  the  Parliamentary 
papers  of  1848-9  and  50.     As  an  individual  opinion,! 
may  quote  the  words  of  Captain  Eeechey,  p.  31  of  the 
first  series.     "  If,  in   this  condition,"  (that   of  being 
hopelessly  blocked  up  to  the  S.  "VV.  of  Cape  Walker,) 
"  which  I  trust  may  not  be  the  case.  Sir  John  Franklin 
should  resolve  upon  taking  to  his  boats,  he  would  prefer 
attempting  a  boat  navigation  through  Sir  James  Ross's 
Strait,  and  up  Regent  Inlet,  to  a  long  land  journey 
across  the  continent  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Settlements, 
to  wliich  the  greater  part  of  his  crew  would  be  wholly 
unequal."    And  again,  in  his  letter  to  the  Secretary 
of  the   Admiralty,  Tth  of  February,   1850,  Captain 
Beechey  writes,  "  *  *  ^  *  the  bottom  of  Regent  Inlet, 
about  the  Pelly  Islands,  should  not  be  left  unexamined, 
[n  the  memorandum  submitted  to  their  Lordships,  17th 
of  January,  1849,  this  quarter  was  considered  of  im- 
portance, and  I  am  still  of  opinion  that  had  Sir  John 
Franklin  abandoned   his  vessels   near  the   coast  of 
America,  and  much  short  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  he 
would  have  preferred  the  probability  of  retaining  the 
use  of  his  boats  until  he  found  relief  in  Barrow's  Strait, 
to  risking  an  overland  journey  via  the  before-men- 
tioned river ;  and  it  must  be  remembered  that  at  the 


1 1' ; 


:s 


iH 


!  » 


lit 


I 


11.. 


I 


i  •  »! 


5  ,' ' 


W 


'si. 


350 


PROGRESS   OP  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


time  he  sailed,  Sir  George  Back's  discovery  had  ren- 
dered it  very  probable  that  Boothia  was  an  island. 

The  memorandum  alluded  to  by  Captain  Boechey 
as  having  been  submitted  to  the  Lords  of  the  Ad  mi- 
ralty  on  the  17th  of  January,  1849,  was,  the  expression 
of  the  unanimous  opinion  of  the  arctic  officers  assem- 
bled by  command  of  the  Admiralty  to  deliberate  upon 
the  best  means  to  be  taken  for  the  relief  of  the  missing 
expedition  ;  and  in  this  report,  clause  14  is  expressly 
devoted  to  the  recommendation  of  the  search  of  liegent 
Inlet. 

The  necessity  for  the  proposed  search  may  be  tlius 
further  developed.  Sir  ef ohn  Franklin  may  have  aban- 
doned his  ships,  when  liis  provisions  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted somewhere  about  the  latitude  of  73°  N.,  long. 
105°  W. ;  in  short,  at  any  point  S.  W.  of  Ca])e  Walker, 
not  further  W.  than  long.  110°.  And  in  such  case, 
rather  than  return  north,  (which  might  be  indeed  im- 
practicable) or  moving  south  upon  the  American  Con- 
tinent, of  which  (upon  the  coast,)  the  utter  barrenness 
was  already  well  known  to  him,  he  mip-ht  prefer  a 
southeastern  course,  with  a  view  of  passing  in  his  boats, 
either  through  James  Ross's,  or  through  Simpson's 
Straits,  into  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  and  so  up  into  Regent 
Inlet  to  the  house  and  stores  left  at  Fury  Beach,  the 
only  depot  of  provisions  known  to  him.  The  advantages 
of  such  a  course  might  appear  to  him  very  great. 

1.  Two  open  passages  being  laid  down  in  his  charts 
into  Regent  Inlet,  by  James  Ross's  Strait,  and  by  Simp- 
son's Strait,  a  means  of  boat  transport  for  his  party 
would  be  aftbrded,  of  which  alone  perhaps  their  ex- 
hausted strength  and  resources  might  admit;  such  a 
course  would  obviously  recommend  itself  to  a  com- 
mander who  had  experienced  the  frightful  difficulties 
of  a  land  journey  in  tliose  regions. 

2.  The  proposed  course  would  lead  through  a  part, 
the  Isthmus  of  Boothia,  in  which  animal  life  is  known 
at  some  seasons  to  abound. 

3.  The  Esquimaux  who  have  been  found  on  the 
Isthmus  of  Boothia  are  extremely  well  disposed  and 
friendly. 


nif 


?si 


VOYAOIi:   OF   THE    I'lilNCE    ALDKIIT. 


85] 


4.  It  is  the  direct  route  toward  the  habitual  yearly 
resort  of  the  whalers  ou  the  west  coast  of  BalHn's  Jiiiy 
and  Davis*  Strait ;  indeed  those  ships  occasionally  de- 
scend Regent  Inlet  to  a  considerable  distance  south. 

5.  There  are  two  persons  attached  to  the  expedition 
who  are  well  acnuainted  with  this  region  and  its  re- 
sources—  viz.,  Mr.  Blanky,  ice  master,  and  Mr.  Mac- 
Donald,  assistant  surgeon,  of  the  Terror.  The  former 
was  with  Sir  John  Koss  in  the  Victory.  The  latter 
has  made  several  voyages  in  whaling  vessels  and  is 
acquainted  with  the  parts  lying  between  Regent  Inlet 
and  Davis'  Strait.  Where  so  few  among  the  crews  of 
the  missing  ships  have  had  any  local  experience,  the 
concurrent  knowledge  of  two  persons  would  have 
considerable  weight. 

6.  Opinions  are  very  greatly  divided  as  to  the  part 
in  wliicli  Sir  John  Franldin's  party  may  have  been  ar- 
rested, and  as  to  the  course  tliey  may  have  taken  in 
consequence.  It  would  be  therefore  manifestly  unfair, 
and  most  dangerous,  to  reason  out  and  magnify  any  one 
hypothesis  at  the  expense  of  the  others.  The  plan  liere 
alluded  to  sought  to  provide  for  the  probability  of  the 
Expedition  having  been  stopped  shortly  after  passing  to 
the  southwest  of  Cape  Walker.  The  very  open  season 
of  1845  was  followed  by  years  of  unusual  severity  until 
1849.  It  is  therefore  very  possible  tliat  retreat  as  well 
as  onward  progress  has  been  impossible  —  tliat  safety 
alone  has  become  their  last  object.  The  hope  of  rescu- 
ing them  in  tlieir  last  extremity  depends,  then,  (as  far 
as  human  means  can  insure  it,)  on  tlie  multiplying  of 
simultaneous  efforts  in  every  direction.  Captain  Aus- 
tin's vessels  will,  if  moving  in  pairs,  take  two  most  im- 
portant sections  only,  of  tlie  general  search,  and  will 
fend  tliey  have  enough  to  do  to  reach  their  several  points 
of  operation  this  season. 

The  necessity  for  this  search  was  greatly  enhanced 
oy  the  intelligence  received  about  this  time  in  England 
of  tlie  arrival  of  Mr.  Rae  and  Commander  PuUen  at 
the  Mackenzie  River,  thus  establishing  the  fact,  that 
Sir  John  Franklin's  party  had  not  reached  any  part  of 


II' 


f 


111 


::ii! 


,J 


H 


m 


\  ■  ^n 


li 


:■! 


\ 


•^t,:i 


S52 


rR()Gui:sa  of  Aucric  discovery. 


the  coast  between  Beliring's  Strait  and  tlio  Coppermine 
River,  while  tiio  ciieck  which  Mr.  Kue  received  in 
bis  course  to  the  north  of  the  Coppermine,  tended  to 
give  increased  importance  to  the  (juarter  eastward  of 
tJiat  position. 

Commander  Charles  Codrincton  Foi*aytb,  11.  N.,  an 
cntei'prising  young  utlicer,  who  had  not  long  previously 
been  promoted  in  consequence  of  his  arduous  services 
in  surveying  on  the  Australian,  African,  and  American 
shores,  and  who  had  rendered  good  service  to  the  gov- 
ernment by  landing  supplies  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa, 
under  circumstances  of  great  difficulty  during  the  Kafir 
war,  had  volunteered  unsuccessfully  for  all  the  govern- 
ment expeditions,  but  was  permitted  by  the  Admiralty 
to  command  this  private  branch  expedition,  in  which 
he  embarked  without  fee  or  reward  —  on  the  noble  and 
honorable  mission  of  endeavoring  to  relieve  his  long- 
imprisoned  brother  officers. 

The  Prince  Albert,  a  small  clipper  vessel  of  about 
ninety  tons,  originally  built  by  Messrs.  White,  of  Cowes, 
in  October,  1848,  for  the  fruit  trade,  was  accordingly 
hastily  fitted  out  and  dispatched  from  Aberdeen,  and 
Captain  Forsyth  was  instructed  to  winter,  if  possible, 
in  JBrentford  Bay,  in  Regent  Inlet,  and  tlience  send 
parties  to  explore  the  o])po8ite  side  of  the  isthmus  and 
the  various  shores  and  bays  of  the  Inlet  She  had  a 
crew  of  twenty,  W.  Kay  and  "W.  Wilson  acting  as  first 
and  second  mates,  and  Mr.  W.  P.  Snow  as  clerk.  She 
Bailed  on  the  5tli  of  June,  and  was  consequently  the 
last  vessel  that  left,  and  yet  is  the  first  that  has  reached 
liome,  having  also  brought  some  account  of  the  track 
of  Franklin's  expedition. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  off  Care  Farewell,  Jidy 
2d,  entered  the  ice  on  the  19th,  and  on  the  21st,  came 
up  with  Sir  John  Ross  in  a  labyrinth  of  ice.  She  pro- 
ceeded up  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait,  fell  in 
with  most  of  the  English  ships  in  those  seas,  and  also 
with  the  American  brig  Advance,  sailing  some  time  in 
conq^any,  and  attempted  to  enter  Regent  Inlet  and  Wel- 
lington Channel.     She  left  the  Advance  aground  near 


•i 


nl 


\  t 


i  ';,* 


I  >' 


f'i  N 


li 


:it ! 


I 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  PEINCE  ALBERT. 


353 


Cape  Riley,  at  the  entrance  of  Wellinffton  Channel, 
though  not  in  a  situation  supposed  to  oe  dangerous. 
Commander  Forsyth,  in  his  otiicial  letter  to  the  Lords 
of  the  Admiralty,  says  that  "  traces  of  tht  missing  ex- 
pedition under  Sir  John  Franklin  had  been  found  at 
Cape  Riley  and  Beechey  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Wellington  Channel.  We  observed  five  places  where 
tents  had  been  pitched,  or  stones  placed  as  if  they  had 
been  used  for  keeping  the  lower  part  of  the  tents  down, 
also  great  quantities  of  beef,  pork,  and  birds'  bones,  a 
piece  of  rope,  with  the  Woolwich  naval  marlc  on  it, 
(^yellow,)  part  of  which  I  have  inclosed."  Having  en- 
tered Wellington  Channel,  and  examined  the  coast  as 
far  as  Point  Innis,  and  finding  no  further  traces  of  tlio 
missing  vessels,  and  it  being  impracticable  to  penetrate 
further  to  the  west.  Commander  Forsyth  returned  to  Ro 
gent  Inlet,  but  meeting  no  opening  there,  the  season 
oeing  near  at  hand  when  the  ice  begins  to  form,  and 
his  vessel  not  of  a  strength  which  would  enable  it  to 
resist  a  heavy  pressure  of  ice,  he  determined  on  return- 
ing without  further  delay  to  England,  after  examining 
a  number  of  points  along  the  coast. 

On  the  25th  of  August,  a  signal  staff  being  observed 
on  shore  at  Cape  Riley,  Mr.  Snow  was  sent  by  Captain 
Forsyth  to  examine  it.    He  found  that  the  Assistance, 
Captain  Ommaney,  had  been  there  two  days  before,  and  . 
bad  left  the  following  notice  : — 

"  This  is  to  certify  that  Captain  Ommaney,  with  the 
officers  of  her  Majesty's  ships  Assistance  and  Intrepid, 
landed  upon  Cape  Riley  on  the  23d  August,  1850,  where 
he  found  traces  of  encampments,  and  collected  tlie  re- 
mains of  materials,  which  evidently  proved  that  so^ne 
party  belonging  to  her  Majesty's  ships  had  been  de- 
tained on  that  spot.  Beechey  Island  was  vAzo  examined, 
where  traces  were  found  of  the  same  party.  This  is 
also  to  give  notice  that  a  supply  of  provisions  and  fuel 
*  at  Cape  Riley.  Since  15th  August,  thev  have  ex- 
amined the  north  shore  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Bar- 
row's Strait,  witliout  meeting  with  any  other  traces. 
Captain  Ommaney  proceeds  to  Cape  Ilotham  and  Ca})0 


'    j  I 


i* 


'   ;i 


>-  n 


354 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


Walker  in  search  of  further  traces  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's expedition.  Dated  on  board  her  Majesty's  ship 
Assistance,  ofl*  Cape  Riley,  the  23d  August,  1850." 

The  seamen  who  were  dispatched  from  the  Assistance 
to  examine  these  remains,  i'ound  a  rope  with  the  naval 
mark,  evidently  belonging  to  a  vessel  which  had  been 
fitted  out  at  Woolwich,  and  which,  in  all  probability, 
was  either  the  Erebus  or  the  Terror.  Other  indications 
were  also  noticed,  which  showed  that  some  vessel  liad 
visited  the  place  besides  the  Assistance.  Captain  For- 
syth left  a  notice  that  the  Prince  Albert  had  called  off 
Cajie  Kiley  on  the  25th  of  August,  and  then  bore  up 
to  the  eastward.  Captain  Forsyth  landed  at  Posses- 
sion Bay  on  the  29th  August,  but  nothing  was  found 
there  to  repay  the  search  instituted. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  at  Aberdeen,  on  the  22d 
of  October,  after  a  quick  passage,  having  been  absent 
something  less  than  four  months. 

Captain  Forsyth  proceeded  to  Londoii  by  the  mail 
train,  taking  with  him,  for  the  information  of  the  Ad- 
miralty, the  several  bones,  (beef,  pork,  &c.,)  which  were 
found  on  Cape  Riley,  together  with  a  piece  of  rope  of 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  length,  and  a  small  piece  of 
canvas  with  the  Queen's  mark  upon  it,  both  in  an  ex- 
cellent state  of  preservation  ;  placing  it  almost  beyond 
a  doubt  that  they  were  left  on  that  spot  by  the  expedi- 
tion under  Sir  John  Franklin. 

o'aptain  Forsyth,  during  his  short  trip,  explored  re- 
gions wliicli  Sir  James  Ross  was  unable  to  reach  tlio 
previous  vear.  He  was  at  Wellington  Channel,  and 
penetrated  to  Fury  Beach,  where  Sir  E.  Parry  abun- 
dcuKMl  his  vessel,  (the  Fury,)  in  1825,  after  she  had 
takoM  the  ground.  It  is  situated  in  about  72°  40'  N. 
latitude,  and  91°  50'  W.  longitude.  This  is  a  point 
vliich  has  not  been  '-oached  by  any  vessel  for  twenty 
years  past.  It  was  found,  however,  utterly  impossible 
to  land  there  on  account  of  the  packed  ice.  The  whole 
of  the  coasts  of  Baffin's  Bay  have  also  now  been  visited 
witliout  result. 

The  intelligence  which  Capt.  Forsyth  brought  home 


VOYAGE   OF   THE   PRINCE   ALBERT. 


355 


has,  a8  a  matter  of  course,  excited  the  most  mtense  in- 
terest in  naval  circles,  and  among  the  friend i5  and  rela- 
tives of  the  parties  absent  in  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
the  more  so  inasmuch  as  it  has  been  ascertained  at 
Chatliam  Dockyard  that  the  lope  which  Captain  For- 
8}'th  found  on  the  spot  when  he  visited  it,  and  copied 
Capt.  Ommaney's  notice,  is  proved  by  its  yellow  mark 
to  have  been  manufactured  there,  and  certainly  since 
1824r ;  and  moreover,  from  inquiries  instituted,  very 
Btrong  evidence  has  been  elicited  in  favor  of  the  belief 
that  the  rope  was  made  between  the  years  1841  and 
18-49.  That  the  trail  of  the  Franklin  expedition,  or 
Bome  detachment  of  it,  has  been  struck,  there  cannot 
be  the  slightest  doubt  in  the  mind  of  any  one  who  has 
read  the  dispatches  and  reports.  That  Captain  Om- 
maney  felt  satisfied  on  this  score  is  evident  from  the 
terms  of  the  paper  he  left  behind  him.  The  squadron, 
it  appears,  were  in  full  cry  upon  the  scent  on  the  2.5th 
of  August,  and  we  must  wait  patiently,  but  anxiously, 
for  the  next  accounts  of  the  results  of  their  indefatiga- 
ble researches,  which  can  hardly  reach  us  from  Bar- 
row's Strait  before  the  autumn  of  1851. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  now  in  the  mind  of  any  one, 
that  the  Arctic  Searching  Expeditions  have  at  length 
come  upon  traces^  if  not  the  track  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin. The  accounts  brought  by  Captain  Forsyth  must 
have  at  least  satisfied  the  most  desponding  that  there 
is  still  hope  left  —  that  the  ships  have  not  foundered  in 
Baffin's  Bay,  at  the  outset  of  the  voyage,  nor  been 
crushed  in  the  ice,  and  burned  by  a  savage  tribe  of 
Esquimaux,  who  had  murdered  the  crew.  That  the 
former  mhjht  have  happened,  all  must  admit ;  but  to 
the  latter,  few,  we  imagine,  will  give  their  assent,  not- 
withstanding the  numerous  cruel  rumors  promulgntod 
from  time  to  time.  It  would  be  idle  to  dwell  upon  so 
impossible  an  event.  Where  could  this  savage  tril)o 
spring  from  ?  Mr.  Saunders  describes  the  natives  of 
"Wolstenholme  Sound  as  the  most  miserable  and  help- 
less of  mortals.  They  had  no  articles  ()])t[iined  from 
Europeans  ;  and  he  was  of  opinion  that  thei.  were  no 


\ 


I 


n 


1 1 


;  \\ 


■?•  J;i 


;     ■'„K! 


'^^ 


p 
'k 


356 


PROGRESS  OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


settlements  further  north  ;  and  if  there  were,  doubtless 
they  would  be  even  more  impotent  than  these  wretched 
beinffs.  That  the  ship  miffht  hav^  foundered  all  must 
admit.  The  President  did  so  with  many  a  gallant  soul 
on  board.  The  Avenger  ran  on  the  Sorelli,  and  300 
brave  fellows,  in  an  instant,  met  with  a  watery  grave  ; 
and  till  the  sea  shall  give  up  her  dead,  who  can  count 
tlie  tliousands  that  lie  beneath  the  billows  of  tiie  miglity 
ocean  ?  "We  liave  now  certain  evidence  that  Franklin's 
ships  did  not  founder  —  not,  at  least,  in  R'iiiin's  Bay  ; 
and  our  own  belief,  (says  a  well-informed  and  compe- 
tent writer  in  the  Morning  Herald,)  is  that  the  pennant 
still  floats  in  the  northern  breeze,  amid  eternal  regions 
of  snow  and  ice. 

The  voyage  performed  by  the  Prince  Albert  has  thus 
been  the  means  of  keeping  alive  our  hopes,  and  of  in- 
forming us,  up  to  a  certain  point,  of  the  progress  of 
the  expeditions,  and  the  situation  of  the  diflereut  ships, 
of  which  we  might  have  been  left  in  a  state  of  utter 
ignorance  till  the  close  of  this  year.  Every  thing  con- 
nected with  the  navigation  of  the  arctic  seas  is  a 
chance,  coupled,  of  course,  with  skill ;  and  in  looking 
at  this  voyage  performed  by  Lady  Franklin's  little 
vessel,  it  must  be  obvious  to  every  one  that  Captain 
Forsyth  has  had  the  chance  of  an  open  season,  and  the 
skill  to  make  use  of  it. 

"  Live  a  thousand  years,"  and  we  may  never  see  such 
another  voyage  performed.  "We  have  only  to  look  at 
all  that  hav^e  preceded.  Parry,  it  is  true,  in  one  year 
ran  to  Melville  Island,  and  passing  a  winter,  got  back 
to  England  the  following  season  —  and  this  is  at  present 
the  ne  plus  ultra  of  arctic  navigation.  Sir  John  Koss, 
we  know,  went  out  in  the  Victory  to  Regent  Lilet,  and 
was  frozen  in  for  four  years,  and  all  the  world  gave 
liiin  up  for  lost — but  "there's  life  in  the  old  dog  yet," 
as  the  song  has  it. 

Sir  James  Ross  was  frozen  in  at  Leopold  Harbor, 
and  only  got  out,  at^O"  r»assing  a  winter,  to  be  carried 
away  in  a  floe  of  ice  into  Baffin's  Bay,  which  no  human 
skill  could  prevent. 


VOYAGE   OF   THE   PRINCE   ALBERT. 


357 


Sir  George  Back  was  to  make  a  summer's  cruise  to 
Wager  Inlet,  and  return  to  England.  The  result  every 
one  knows  or  may  make  themselves  acquainted  with, 
by  reading  the  fearful  voyage  of  the  1  error,  an  ab- 
stract of  which  I  have  already  given.  It  would  be 
Buj^erfluous  to  enumerate  many  other  of  our  series  of 
polar  voyages,  but  it  is  pretty  evident  that  Captain 
Forsyth's  voyage,  performed  in  the  summer  months 
of  1850,  will  bo  nanded  down  to  posterity  as  one  of  the 
most  remarkable,  if  not  the  most  remarkable,  that  has 
ever  been  accomplished  in  the  arctic  seas  —  the  expe- 
dition consisting  of  one  solitary  small  vessel. 

The  main  object  of  the  voyage,  it  is  true,  has  not 
been  accomplished,  but  as  all  the  harbors  in  Hcgent 
Inlet  were  frozen  up,  and  it  was  utterly  inipossible  to 
cut  through  a  vast  tract  of  ice,  extending  for  perhaps 
four  or  five  miles,  to  get  the  ship  to  a  secure  anchor- 
age, under  these  circumstances,  CJaptain  Forsyth  had 
no  alternative  but  to  return,  and  in  doing  so,  he  hjis, 
in  the  opinion  of  all  the  best-informed  officers,  dis- 
played great  good  sense  and  judgment  rather  than  re- 
n.ain  frozen  in  at  the  "Wellington  Channel,  where  he 
only  went  to  reconnoiter,  and  where  he  had  no  business 
whatever,  Us  instructions  being  confined  to  Regent 
Inlet. 


iii 


1 1 


'  I 


.1  » 


,!• 


M 


It 

K 


i!  ;      .  ', 


:f 


THE  AMERICAN  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION. 


The  First  Grinnell  Expedition  in  the  Advance  and 
Rescue,  sent  out  by  Henry  Grinnell,  Esq.,  under 

COMMAND  OF   LlEUTENANT  De  HaVEN,  IN  THE  YEAK8 

1850  and  1851. 


The  safe  return  ox  the  expedition  sent  out  by  Mr 
Ilonry  Grinnell,  an  opulent  merchant  of  New  York  city 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions,  is 
an  event  of  much  interest ;  and  the  voyage,  though  not 
resulting  in  the  discovery  of  the  long-absent  mariners, 
presents  many  considerations  satisfactory  to  the  parties 
iniTnediately  concerned,  and  the  American  public  in 
general. 

Mr.  Grinnell's  expedition  consisted  of  only  two  small 
brigs,  the  Advance  of  140  tons  ;  the  Rescue  of  only  90 
tons.  The  former  had  been  engaged  in  the  Havana 
trade  ;  the  latter  was  a  new  vessel  built  for  the  mer- 
cliATit  service.  Both  were  strengthened  for  the  arctic 
voyage  at  a  heavy  cost.  They  were  then  placed  under 
the  directions  of  our  Navy  Board,  and  subject  to  naval 
regulations,  as  if  in  permanent  service.  The  command 
was  given  to  Lieut.  E.  De  Haven,  a  young  naval  ofiicer 
who  accompanied  the  United  States  exploring  expedi- 
tion. The  result  has  proved  that  a  better  choice  could 
not  have  been  made.  His  officers  consisted  of  Mr. 
Murdoch,  sailing-master  ;  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  surgeon  and 
naturalist ;  and  Mr.  Lovell,  midshipman.  The  Advance 
had  a  crew  of  twelve  men  when  she  sailed  ;  two  of  them 
complaining  of  sickness,  and  expressing  a  desire  to 
return  home,  were  left  at  the  Danish  settlement  at  Dicco 
Island,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland. 

The  Expedition  left  New  York  on  the  23d  of  May, 
1850,  and  was  absent  a  little  more  than  sixteen  months. 
They  passed  the  eastern  extremity  of  Newfoundland 


r' 


'  I 


i!j 


i;  I 


I' 


i  k 


i  i 


\\ 


^U  i 


' 


li..    !^ 


*ji- 


U'i; 


362 


riiOGItESS   OF  AECTIC   DI8COVE14Y. 


ten  days  nfter  leavinpj  Sandy  Hook,  and  tlicn  sailed 
east-northeast,  directly  for  Cape  Comfort,  on  the  coast 
of  Greenland.  The  weather  was  generally  line,  and 
only  a  single  accident  occurred  on  the  v  oyaf'e  to  that 
country  of  fro^t  and  snow.  Off*  the  coast  of  Labradui 
they  met  an  iceberg  making  its  way  toward  the  tropics. 
The  night  was  very  dark,  and  as  the  huge  voyager  had 
no  "  light  out,"  the  Advance  could  not  be  censured  fur 
running  foul.  She  was  punished,  however,  by  the  loss 
of  her  jib-boom,  as  she  ran  against  the  iceberg  at  the 
rate  of  seven  or  eight  knots  an  hour. 

The  voyagers  did  not  land  at  Cape  Comfort,  but 
turning  northward,  sailed  along  the  southwest  coast  of 
Greenland,  sometimes  in  the  midst  of  broad  acres  of 
bi-oken  ice,  (particularly  *n  Davis'  Straits,)  a?  fur  as 
Whale  Island  O  th  •-  vo^'  the  'mniveisary  of  our 
national  indcpendeiiro  oe  -irred  ;  it  was  observed  by 
the  seamen  by'  jpli^^r^;  t*^o  main-brace" — in  other 
words,  they  were  allowed  an  c?  ...'a  glass  of  grog  on  that 
dav. 

From  Whale  Island,  a  boat,  with  two  officers  and 
four  seamen,  was  sent  to  Disco  Island,  a  distance  of 
about  26  miles,  to  a  Danish  settlement  there,  to  procure 
skin  clothing  and  other  articles  necessary  for  nse  during 
the  rigors  of  a  polar  winter.  The  officers  were  enter- 
tained at  the  government  house  ;  the  seamen  were  com- 
fortably lodged  with  the  Esquimaux,  sleeping  in  fur 
bags  at  night.  They  returned  to  the  ship  the  following 
day,  and  the  expedition  proceeded  on  its  voyage.  When 
passing  the  little  Danish  settlement  of  Upernavick,  they 
were  boarded  by  natives  for  the  ffrst  time.  They  were 
out  in  government  whale-boats,  hunting  for  ducks  and 
seals.  These  hardy  children  of  the  Arctic  Circle  were 
not  shy,  for  through  the  Danes,  the  English  whalers,and 
government  expeditions,  they  had  become  acquainted 
with  men  of  other  latitudes. 

AVhen  the  expedition  reached  Melville  Bay,  which, 
on  account  of  its  fearful  character,  is  also  called  the 
DtviVs  JVJp^  the  voyagers  began  to  witness  more  of 
the  grandeur  and  perils  of  arctic  scenes.    Icebergs  of 


r.3 


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i. 


h,  ■.; 


i  >. 


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ti 

ir 


TlIK    .VMKKICAN   AUCTIC    EXI'EDITIuN. 


365 


all  dimensions  came  bearing  down  from  the  Polar  seas, 
like  vast  Sipuidrons,  and  the  roar  of  their  rending  came 
over  the  waters  like  the  booming  of  heavy  broadsides 
of  contending'  navies.  Tliey  also  encountered  immense 
floes,  with  only  narrow  channels  between,  and  at  times 
their  situation  was  excee<lingly  jx'rilous.  On  one  occa- 
sion, after  heaving  through  iields  of  ice  for  live  consecu- 
tive weeks,  two  immense  floes,  between  whicli  tliev 
were  making  their  way,  gradually  ap})roached  each 
other,  and  for  several  hours  they  expected  their  tiny 
vessels  —  tiny  when  compared  with  the  mighty  objects 
around  them  —  would  be  crushed.  An  immense  calf 
of  ice,  six  or  eight  feet  thick,  slid  under  the  Rescue, 
lifting  her  almost  "high  and  dry,"  and  careening  her 
partially  upon  her  beam  ends.  By  means  of  ice-an- 
chors, (large  iron  hooks,)  they  kept  her  from  capsizing. 
In  this  position  they  remained  about  sixty  hours,  when, 
with  saws  and  axes,  they  succeeded  in  relieving  her. 
The  ice  now  opened  a  little,  and  they  finally  warped 
through  into  clear  water.  While  they  were  thus  con« 
flned,  polar  bears  came  around  them  in  abundance, 
greedy  fur  prey,  and  the  seamen  indulged  a  little  in  the 
perilous  sports  of  the  chase. 

The  open  sea  continued  but  a  short  time,  when  they 
again  became  entangled  among  bergs,  floes,  and  hum- 
mocks, and  encountered  the  most  fearful  perils.  Some- 
times they  anchored  their  vessels  to  icebergs,  and  some- 
times to  noes  or  masses  of  hummock.  On  one  of  these 
occasions,  while  the  cook,  an  active  Frenchman,  was 
upon  a  berg,  making  a  place  for  an  anchor,  the  mass  of 
ice  s])lit  beneath  him,  and  he  was  dropped  through  the 
yawning  fissure  into  the  Water,  a  distance  of  almost 
thirty  feet.  Fortunately  the  masses,  as  is  often  the 
case,  did  not  close  up  again,  but  floated  apart,  and  the 
poor  cook  was  hauled  on  board  more  dead  than  alive, 
from  excessive  fright.  It  was  in  this  fearful  region  that 
they  first  encountered  pack-ice,  and  there  they  were 
locked  in  from  the  Tth  to  tlio  23d  of  July.  During  that 
time  they  were  joined  by  tlie  yacht  Prince  Albert,  com- 
manded by  Cui)tuin  Forsytli,  of  tiie  Royal  Navy,  and 


'If  ,11 


,  I 


1 

t'^; 


;  t 


!   II 


1'.^-'; 


8C6 


TKOORlv'S   OF   AKirriC    DIrtC'UVKUY. 


together  the  three  vessels  were  anchored,  for  a  while, 
to  an  immense  field  of  ice,  in  si^j^ht  of  the  Devil's 
Thumb.  That  high,  rocky  peak,  Kituated  in  latitude 
7'P  22',  was  about  thirty  miles  distant,  and  with  the 
dark  hills  adjacent,  presented  a  strange  a8})ect  whore 
all  was  white  and  glittering.  The  pack  and  the  hills 
are  masses  of  rock,  with  occasionally  a  lichen  or  a  moss 
growing  upon  their  otherwise  naked  surfaces.  In  the 
midst  of  the  vast  ice-field  loomed  up  many  lofty  bergs, 
all  of  them  in  motion  —  slow  and  majestic  motion. 

From  the  Devil's  Thumb  the  American  vessels  passed 
onward  through  the  pack  toward  Sabino's  Islands,  while 
the  Prince  Albert  essayed  to  make  a  more  westerly 
course.  They  reached  Cape  York  at  the  beginning  of 
August.  Far  across  the  ice,  landward,  they  discovered, 
through  their  glasses,  several  men,  apparently  making 
signals  ;  and  for  a  while  they  rejoiced  m  the  belief  that 
they  saw  a  portion  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  companions. 
Four  men,  (among  whom  was  our  sailor-artist,)  were 
dispatched  with  a  whale-boat  to  reconnoiter.  They  soon 
discovered  the  men  to  be  Esquimaux,  who,  by  signs, 
professed  great  friendship,  and  endeavored  to  get  the 
voyagers  to  accompany  them  to  their  homes  beyond 
the  hills.  They  declined  ;  and  as  soon  as  they  returned 
to  the  vessel,  the  expedition  again  pushed  forward,  and 
made  its  way  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  which  they 
reached  on  the  7th  of  August. 

At  Cape  Dudley  Digo^es  they  were  charmed  by  the 
sight  of  the  Crimson  Cliffs,  spoken  of  by  Captain  Farry 
and  other  arctic  navigators.  These  are  lofty  cliffs  of 
dark  brown  stone,  covered  with  snow  of  a  rich  crimson 
color.  It  was  a  magnificent  sight  in  that  cold  region, 
to  see  such  an  apparently  warm  object  standing  out  in 
bold  relief  against  the  dark  blue  back-gionnd  of  a  polar 
sky.  This  was  the  most  northern  point  to  which  the 
expedition  penetrated.  The  whole  coast  which  they 
had  passed  from  Disco  to  this  cape  is  high,  rugged,  and 
ban-en,  only  some  of  the  low  points,  stretching  into  the 
sea,  bearing  a  species  of  dwarf  fir.  Northeast  from 
the  cape  rise  the  Arctic  Highlands,  to  an  unknown  alti- 


H! 


1 


f'  *!.■■■ 


Rmi 


TUK   AMF,RICAN   ARCTIC    EXPEDITION. 


371 


tude  ;  and  stretchine;  away  northward  is  the  unexplored 
Smith's  Sound,  filled  with  impenetrable  ice. 

From  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  Advance  and  Res- 
cue, beating  against  wind  and  tide  in  the  midst  of  the 
ice-fields,  made  Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  then  chang- 
ing their  course  to  the  southwest,  emerged  from  tlie 
fidds  into  the  open  waterb  uf  Lancaster  Sound.  Here, 
on  the  18th  of  August,  they  encountered  a  tremendous 
gale,  which  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  two 
vessels  parted  company  during  the  storm,  and  remained 
separate  several  clays.  Across  Lancaster  Sound,  the 
Advance  made  her  way  to  Barrow's  Straits,  and  on  the 
22d  discovered  the  Prince  Albert  on  the  southern  shore 
of  the  straits,  near  Leopold  Island,  a  mass  of  lofty, 

Srecipitous  rocks,  dark  and  barren,  and  hooded  and 
raped  with  snow.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  soon 
the  ofiicers  and  crews  of  the  two  vessels  met  in  friendly 
greeting.  Those  of  the  Prince  Albert  were  much  as- 
tonished, for  they  (being  towed  by  a  steamer,)  left  the 
Americans  in  Melville  Bay  on  the  6th,  pressing  north- 
ward through  tlie  pack,  and  could  not  conceive  how 
they  so  soon  and  safely  penetrated  it.  Captain  For- 
syth had  attempted  to  reacli  a  particular  point,  wliero 
he  intended  to  remain  througli  the  winter,  but  finding 
the  passage  thereto  completely  blocked  up  with  ice,  ho 
had  resolved,  on  the  very  day  when  the  Americans  ap- 
peared, to  "  'bout  ship,"  and  return  home.  This  fact, 
and  the  disappointment  felt  by  Mr.  Snow,  are  mentioned 
in  our  fonner  article. 

The  two  vessels  remained  together  a  day  or  two, 
wrhen  they  parted  company,  the  Prince  Albert  to  re- 
iurn  home,  and  the  Advance  to  make  further  explora- 
tions. It  was  oft*  Leopold  Island,  on  the  22d  of  Au- 
gust, that  the  "  mad  Yankee  "  took  the  lead  through  the 
vast  masses  of  floating  ice,  so  vividlv  described  by  Mr. 
Snow,  and  so  graphically  portrayed  by  the  sailor-artist. 
"  The  way  was  before  thom,"  says  Mr.  Snow,  who  stood 
npon  the  deck  of  the  Advance  ;  "  the  stream  of  ice  had 
to  be  eitlier  gone  tlirongh  boldly,  or  a  long  detour  made; 
and,  despite  the  heaviness  of  the  stream,  they  pushed 


'  I 


H 


!    ( 


.'    ^     \\ 


y  \ 


>!' 


872 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


the  vessel  through  in  her  proper  course.  Two  or  three 
shocks,  as  she  came  in  contact  with  some  lai-ge  pieces, 
were  unheeded  ;  and  the  moment  the  last  block  was 
past  the  bow,  the  officer  sung  out,  *  So  :  steady  as  she 
goes  on  her  course  ;'  and  came  aft  as  if  nothing  more 
than  ordinary  sailing  had  been  going  on.  I  observed 
our  own  little  bark  nobly  following  in  the  American's 
wake ;  and  as  I  afterward  learned,  she  got  through  it 
pretty  well,  though  not  without  much  doubt  of  the  pro- 
priety of  keeping  on  in  such  procedure  after  the  '  mad 
Yankee,'  as  he  was  called  by  our  mate." 

From  Leopold  Island  the  Advance  proceeded  to  the 
northwest,  and  on  the  25th  reached  Cape  Riley,  an 
other  amorphous  mass,  not  so  regular  and  precipitate 
as  Leopold  iBland,  but  more  lofty.  Here  a  strong  tide, 
setting  in  to  the  shore,  drifted  the  Advance  toward  the 
beach,  whore  she  stranded.  Around  her  were  small 
bergs  and  largo  masses  of  floating  ice,  all  under  the 
influence  of  tlie  strong  current.  It  was  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  she  struck.  By  diligent 
labor  in  removing  every  thing  from  her  deck  to  a  small 
floe,  she  was  so  lightened,  that  at  four  o'clock  the  next 
morning  she  floated,  and  soon  every  thing  was  properly 
replaced. 

Near  Cape  Kiley  the  Americans  fell  in  with  a  por- 
tion 01  an  English  Expedition,  and  there  also  the 
Rescue,  left  behind  in  the  gale  in  Lancaster  Sound, 
overtook  the  Advance.  There  was  Captain  Penny 
with  the  Sophia  and  Lady  Franklin;  the  veteran  Sir 
John  Ross,  with  the  Felix,  and  Commodore  Austin, 
with  the  Resolute  steamer.  Together  the  navigators 
of  both  nations  explored  the  coast  at  and  near  Cape 
Riley,  and  on  the  27th  they  saw  in  a  cove  on  the  shore 
of  Beechey  Island,  or  Beechey  Cape,  on  the  east  side  f»f 
the  entrance  to  Wellington  Channel,  unmistakable  evi 
dence  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions  were 
there  in  April,  1846.  There  they  found  many  articles 
known  to  belong  to  the  British  Navy,  and  some  that 
were  the  pro])erty  of  the  Erobus  and  Terror,  the  ships 
under  the  command  of  Sir  John.    There  lay,  bleacUad 


i 


;hree 
eces, 
wa8 
i  she 
nore 
pved 
;an's 
?liit 
pro- 
nad 

the 
an 
tute 
ido, 
the 
nail 
the 
wo 
•ent 
'lall 
ext 
sriy 


i 


f« 


rqi 


►or- 
khe 
fid, 

"y 

Sir 

in, 

jr8 

pe 

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of 

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re 

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at 

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'd 


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li   fl 


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8 


THE   A^natlCAN    AKCilC    KXI'MDI'l  ION. 


375 


to  the  whiteness  of  the  surrounding  snow,  a  ])icce  of 
canvas,  with  the  name  of  the  Terror,  marked  upon  it 
with  indestrnctible  charcoal.  It  was  very  faint,  yet 
perfectly  legible.  Near  it  was  a 
guide  board,  lying  flat  upon  its 
face,  having  been  prostrated  by 
the  wind.  It  had  evidently  been 
used  to  direct  exploring  parties  to 
the  vessels,  or  rather,  to  the  en- 
camp ;nent  on  shore.  The  board 
was  pine,  thirteen  inches  in  length 
and  six  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and 
nailed  to  a  boarding  pike  eight 
feet  in  length.  It  is  supposed 
that  the  sudden  opening  of  the 
ice,  caused  Sir  John  to  depart 
hastily,  and  in  so  doing,  this  pike 
and  its  board  were  left  behind. 
They  also  found  a  large  number 
of  tin  canisters, 
such  as  are  used 
for  packing  meats 
for  a  sea  voyage;  an 
anvil  block :  rem- 
nants of  clothing, 
which  evinced,  by 
immerous  patches 
and  their  thread- 
bare character,that 
they  had  been  worn 
as  long  rs  the  own- 
ers could  keep  them  ANVIL  BLOCK.  GUIDE  » it >ARD. 
on ;  the  remains  of  an  India  Rubber  glove,  lin  I  i;ith 
wool ;  some  old  sacks ;  a  cask,  or  tub,  partly  fil  I  with 
charcoal,  and  an  unfinished  rope-mat,  which,  1  j  other 
fibrous  fabrics,  was  bleached  white. 

Brt  the  most  interesting,  and  at  the  same  ' 
melancholy  traces  of  the  navigators,  were  thr^ 
in  a  little  sheltered  cove,  each  with  a  board    ^  lie  head, 
bearing  the  name  of  the  sleeper  below.    Thc^o  iusurip- 


iie  most 
graves, 


M 


1 


376 


PllOUliESB    OF   AliUTlU    JJlriCUX  KKV. 


tions  testify  positively  when  Sir  John  and  his  comj^an 
ions  were  there.  The  board  at  the  head  of  the  grave 
on  the  left  has  the  following  inscription  : 

"  Sacred  to  the  niemory  of  Joun  Tqrbtnoton,  who 
departed  this  life,  January  Ist,  a  d.,  1S46,  on  board 
her  Majesty's  ship  Terror,  aged  20  years." 

On  the  center  one  —  "Sacred  to  the  memory  of 
John  IIabtnell,  A.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Erebus ; 
died,  January  4th,  1846,  aged  25  years.  '  Thus  saith 
the  Lord  of  Jlosts,  Consider  your  ways ;'  Ilaggai,  chap, 
i.  6,  7." 

On  the  right — "Sacred  to  the  memory  of  W.  Braine, 
R.  M.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Erebus,  who  died  April  3d, 
1846,  aged  32  years.  '  Choose  you  this  day  whom  you 
will  serve :'  Joshua,  chap,  xxiv.,  part  of  the  15th  verse." 


THREE  GRAVES  AT  BEECHEY. 

How  much  later  than  April  3d  (the  date  upon  the 
last-named  head-board,)  Sir  .Tohn  remained  at  Beechey, 
can  not  be  determined.  They  saw  evidences  of  his 
having  gone  northward,  for  sledge  tracks  in  that  di- 
rection were  visible.  It  is  tlie  opinion  of  Dr.  Kjuio 
that,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  in  the  spring,  Sir 
John  passed  northward  with  his  ships  through  Welling- 
ton channel,  into  the  great  Polar  basin,  and  that  he 
did  not  return.  This,  too,  is  the  opinion  of  Captain 
Penny,  and  he  zealously  urges  the  British  government 
to  send  a  powerful  screw  steamer  to  pass  through  tha^ 


I  1 


I 


(  I  ! 


ii 


1 


1 

1 

THE   AMKlilCAN    AliCTIC   EXl'KDITION. 


379 


cliannel,  and  explore  the  tlieoretically  more  li08pital)le 
coustB  beyond.  Tliis  will  doubtless  ])e  undertaken 
another  season,  it  being  the  opinions  of  Captains  Parry, 
lieeehey,  Sir  John  Kass,  and  others,  expressed  at  a  eon- 
feronce  with  the  board  of  Admiralty,  in  Sej)teml)er,  that 
the  season  was  too  far  advanced  to  attempt  it  the  i)re3- 
ent  year.  Dr.  Kane,  in  a  letter  to  J\Ir.  Grinneil,  since 
the  return  of  the  expedition,  thus  expresses  his  opin- 
ion concerning  the  safety  of  Sir  Jolm  and  his  com- 
panions. After  saying,  "1  should  think  that  he  is 
now  to  be  sought  for  north  and  west  of  Cornwallia 
Island,"  he  adds,  *'  as  to  the  chance  of  the  destruction 
of  hia  party  by  the  casualties  of  ice,  the  return  of  our 
own  party  after  something  more  than  the  usual  share 
of  them,  is  the  only  fact  that  I  can  add  to  what  wo 
knew  when  we  set  out.  The  hazards  from  cold  and 
privation  of  food  may  be  almost  looked  upon  as  sub- 
ordinate. The  snow-hut,  the  fire  and  light  from  the 
moss-lamp  fed  with  blubber,  the  seal,  th(  narwhal,  the 
white  whale,  and  occasionally  abundant  stores  of  mi- 
gratory birds,  would  sustain  vigorous  life.  The  scurvy, 
the  worst  visitation  of  explorers  deprived  of  perma- 
nent quarters,  is  more  rare  in  the  depths  of  a  jmlar 
winter,  than  In  the  milder  weather  of  the  moist  sum 
mer ;  and  our  two  little  vessels  encountered  both 
seasons  without  losing  a  man." 

Leaving  Beechey  Cape,  our  expedition  forced  its  way 
through  the  ice  to  Barrow's  Inlet,  where  they  narrowly 
escaped  being  frozen  in  for  the  winter.  They  endeav- 
ored to  enter  the  Inlet,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it 
their  winter  quarters,  but  were  jjrevented  by  the  mass 
of  pack-ice  at  its  entrance.  It  was  on  the  4th  of  Sej)- 
tember,  1850,  when  they  arrived  there,  aiiH  after  re- 
maining seven  or  eight  days,  they  abanchdied  the 
attempt  to  enter.  On  the  right  and  left  of  the  above 
picture,  are  seen  the  dark  rocks  at  the  entrance  of  the 
inlet,  and  in  the  center  of  the  frozen  waters  and  the 
range  of  hills  beyond.  Tliere  was  much  smooth  ice 
witliln  the  Inlet,  and  while  the  vessels  lav  ancliored 
to  tlie  "  iield,"  otlicLMS  and  crew  exercised  and  amused 


"  ! 


I 


880 


PKOGRKSS   OF    AKCIU?    DISCOVEliY. 


thomsclves  hy  skiitinj*.  On  tlie  left  of  the  Inlet,  (in 
(licjitcd  by  tho  dark  conical  object,)  they  discovered  a 
Cairn,  (a  lioap  of  stones  with  a  cavity,)  eight  or  ten 
feet  in  height,  which  was  erected  by  Captain  Omraaney 
of  the  English  Expedition  then  in  the  polar  waters. 
Within  it  he  had  placed  two  letters,  for  *' Whom  it 
might  concern."  Commander  De  Haven  also  depos- 
ited a  letter  there.  It  is  believed  to  be  the  only  post- 
office  in  the  world,  free  for  tho  use  of  all  nations.  The 
rocks,  here,  presented  vast  lissures  made  by  the  frost ; 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  on  the  right  that  powerful 
agent  had  cast  down  vast  heaps  of  debris. 

From  Barlow's  Inlet,  our  expedition  moved  slowly 
westward,  battling  with  tho  ice  every  rood  of  the  way, 
until  they  reached  Griffin's  Island,  at  about  06°  west 
longitude  from  Greenwich.  This  was  attained  on  tlie 
lltli,  and  was  the  extreme  westing  made  by  tho  expe- 
dition. All  beyond  seemed  impenetrable  ice ;  and, 
despairing  of  making  any  further  discoveries  before  the 
winter  should  set  in,  they  resolved  to  return  home. 
Turning  eastward,  they  hoped  to  reach  Davis'  Strait 
by  the  southern  route,  before  the  cold  and  darkness 
came  on  ;  but  they  were  doomed  to  disappointment. 
Near  the  entrance  to  Wellington  Channel  tliey  became 
completely  locked  in  by  hummock-ice,  and  soon  found 
themselves  drifting  with  an  irresistible  tide  up  that 
channel  toward  the  pole. 

Now  began  the  most  perilous  adventures  of  the  navi- 
gators. The  summer  day  was  drawing  to  a  close ;  the 
diurnal  visits  of  the  pale  sun  were  rapidly  shortening, 
and  soon  the  long  polar  night,  with  all  its  darkness  and 
horrors,  would  fall  upon  them.  Slowly  they  drifted  in 
those  vast  Holds  of  ice,  whither,  or  to  what  result,  they 
knew  not.  Locked  in  the  moving  yet  compact  mass  ; 
liable  at  every  moment  to  be  crushed ;  far  away  from 
land  ;  the  mercury  sinking  daily  lower  and  lower  from 
tho  zero  figure,  toward  the  point  where  that  metal 
freezes,  they  felt  small  hope  of  ever  reaching  home  again. 
Yet  they  j^repared  for  winter  comforts  and  winter  sports, 
as  cheerfully  us  if  lying  safe  in  Barlow's  Inlet.    As  the 


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TUB   AMERICAN  AECTIO   EXPEDITION. 


385 


<vinter  advanced,  the  crews  of  both  the  vessels  went  on 
Doard  the  larger  one.  They  unshipped  the  rudders  of 
each,  to  prevent  their  being  injured  by  the  ice,  covered 
the  deck  of  the  Advance  with  felt,  prepared  their  stores, 
and  made  arrangements  for  enduring  the  long  winter, 
now  upon  them.  Physical  and  mental  activity  being 
necessary  for  the  preservation  of  health,  they  daily  ex- 
ercised in  the  open  air  for  several  hours.  They  built 
ice  huts,  hunted  the  huge  white  bears  and  the  little  polar 
foxes,  and  when  the  darkness  of  the  winter  night  had 
spread  over  them  they  arranged  in-door  amusements 
and  employments. 

Before  the  end  of  October,  the  sun  made  its  appear- 
ance for  the  last  time,  and  the  awful  polar  night 
closed  in.  Early  in  November  they  wholly  abandoned 
the  Kescue,  and  both  crews  made  the  Advance  their 
permanent  winter  home.  The  cold  soon  became  in- 
tense ;  the  mercury  congealed,  and  the  spirit  thermome- 
ter indicated  46°  below  zero  !  Its  average  range  was 
30°  to  35°.  They  had  drifted  helplessly  up  Wellington 
Cluxnnel,  almost  to  the  latitude  from  whence  Captain 
Penny  saw  an  open  sea,  and  which  all  believe  to  bo 
the  great  polar  basin,  where  there  is  a  more  genial 
clime  than  that  which  intervenes  between  the  Arctic 
Circle  and  the  75th  degree.  Here,  when  almost  in 
sight  of  the  open  ocean,  that  mighty  polar  tide,  with 
its  vast  masses  of  ice,  suddenly  ebbed,  and  our  little 
vessels  were  carried  back  as  resistlessly  as  before, 
through  Barrow's  Straits  into  Lancaster  Sound!  All 
this  while  the  immense  fields  of  hummock-ice  were 
moving,  and  the  vessels  were  in  hourlv  danger  of  being 
crushed  and  destroyed.  At  lengtn,  while  drifting 
through  Barrow's  Straits,  the  congealed  mass,  as  it 
crushed  together  by  the  opposite  shores,  became  more 
compact,  and  the  Advance  was  elevated  almost  seven 
feet  by  the  stern,  and  keeled  two  feet  eight  inches,  star- 
board. In  this  position  she  remained,  with  very  little 
alteration  for  five  consecutive  months  ;  for,  soon  after 
entering  Baffin's  Bay  in  the  midst  of  the  winter,  the 
ice  became  frozen  in  one  immense  tract,  covering  mil- 


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380 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


lions  of  acres.  Thus  frozen  in,  sometimes  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  from  land,  they  drifted  slowly  along  the 
southwest  coast  of  Baftin's  Bay,  a  distance  of  more  than 
a  thousand  miles  from  Wellington  Chaimel.  For  eleven 
weeks  that  dreary  night  contiimed,  and  during  tliut 
time  the  disc  of  the  sun  was  never  seen  above  the  hori- 
zon. Yet  nature  was  not  wholly  forbidding  in  aspect. 
Sometimes  the  Aurora  Borealis  would  flash  up  still 
further  northward  ;  and  sometimes  Aurora  Parhelia — 
mock  suns  and  mock  moons  —  would  appear  in  varied 
beauty  in  the  starry  sky.  Brilliant,  too,  were  the  north- 
ern constellations  ;  and  when  the  real  moon  was  at  its 
full,  it  made  its  stately  circuit  in  the  heavens,  without 
descending  below  the  horizon,  and  lighted  up  the  vast 
piles  of  ice  with  a  pale  luster,  almost  as  great  as  the 
morning  twilights  of  more  genial  skies. 

Around  the  vessels  the  crews  built  a  wall  of  ice  ;  and 
in  ice  huts  they  sto>,ed  away  their  cordage  and  stores 
to  make  room  for  exercise  on  the  decks.  They  organ- 
ized a  theatrical  company,  and  amused  themselves  and 
the  officers  with  comedy  w^ell  performed.  Behind  the 
pieces  of  hummock  each  actor  learned  his  part,  and 
by  means  of  calico  they  transformed  themselves  into 
female  characters,  as  occasion  required.  These  dramas 
were  acted  on  the  deck  of  the  Advance,  sometimes 
while  the  thermometer  indicated  30°  below  zero,  and 
actors  and  audiences  highly  enjoyed  the  fun.  They 
also  went  in  parties  during  that  long  night,  fully  armed, 
to  hunt  the  polar  bear,  the  grim  monarch  of  the  frozen 
Korth,  on  which  occasions  they  often  encountered  peril- 
ous adventures.  They  played  at  foot-ball,  and  exercised 
themselves  in  drawing  sledges,  heavily  laden  with  pro- 
visions. Five  hours  of  each  twenty-four,  they  thus  exer- 
cised in  the  open  air,  and  once  a  week  each  man  washed 
his  whole  body  in  cold  snow  water.  Serioub  sickness 
was  consequently  avoided,  and  the  scurvy  which  at- 
tacked them  soon  yielded  to  remedies. 

Often  during  that  fearful  night,  they  expected  the 
disaster  of  having  their  vessels  crushed.  All  through 
November  and  December,  before  the  ice  became  fast 


IHi:    AMKIilOAN    ARCTIC   KXrKDITION. 


387 


tlioy  slept  ill  tlicir  clothes,  with  knapsacks  on  tlicir 
backs,  and  sledges  upon  the  ice,  laden  with  stores,  not 
knowing  at  what  moment  the  vessels  might  be  demol- 
ished, and  themselves  forced  to  leave  them,  and  make 
their  way  toward  land.  On  the  8th  of  December,  and 
the  23d  of  January,  they  actually  lowered  their  boats 
and  stood  upon  the  ice,  for  the  crushing  masses  wero 
making  the  timbers  of  the  gallant  vessel  creak  and  its 
decks  to  rise  in  the  center.  They  were  then  ninety 
miles  from  land,  and  hope  hardly  whispered  an  encour- 
aging idea  of  life  being  sustained.  On  the  latter  occa- 
sion, when  officers  and  crew  stood  upon  the  ice,  with 
the  ropes  of  their  provision  sledges  in  their  hands,  a 
terrible  snow-drift  came  from  the  northeast,  and  intense 
darkness  shrouded  them.  Had  the  vessel  then  been 
crushed,  all  must  have  perished.  But  God,  who  ruled 
the  storm,  also  put  forth  His  protecting  arm  and  saved 
them. 

Early  in  February  the  northern  horizon  began  to  be 
streaked  with  gorgeous  twilight,  the  herald  ot  the  ap- 
proaching king  of  day  ;  and  on  the  18th  the  disc  of 
the  sun  first  appeared  above  the  horizon.  As  its  golden 
rim  rose  above  the  glittering  snow-drifts  and  piles  of 
ice,  three  hearty  cheers  went  up  from  those  hardy  mar 
iners,  and  they  welcomed  their  deliverer  from  the 
chains  of  frost  as  cordially  as  those  of  old  who  chanted, 

"  See  !  the  conquering  hero  comes, 
Sound  the  trumpet,  beat  the  drums." 

Day  after  day  it  rose  higher  and  higher,  and  while  the 
pallid  faces  of  the  voyagers,  bleached  during  that  long 
night,  darkened  by  its  beams,  the  vast  masses  of  ice 
began  to  yield  to  its  fervid  influences.  The  scurvy  dis- 
appeared, and  from  that  time,  until  their  arrival  home, 
not  a  man  suffered  from  sickness.  As  they  slowly 
drifted  through  Davis'  Straits,  and  the  ice  gave  indica- 
tions of  breaking  up,  the  voyagers  made  preparations 
for  sailing.  The  Rescue  was  re-occupied,  (May  13th, 
1851,)  and  her  stone-post,  which  had  been  broken  by 
the  ice  in  Barrow^s  Straits,  was  repaired.  To  accom- 
plish this,  they  were  obliged  to  dig  away  the  ice  whicb 


t 


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s » 


^f  i  j .-' 


388 


rEOGRESS  OF  ARCrfIC   DISCOVERY. 


was  from  12  to  14  feet  thick  around  her,  as  represented 
in  the  engraving.      They  reshipped  their  rudders  ;  re- 
moved tlie  felt  covering  ;  phaced  their  stores  on  deck, 
and  then  patiently  awaited  the  disruption  of  the  ice 
This  event  was  very  sudden  and  appalling.     It  began 
to  give  way  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  in  the  space  of 
twenty  minutes  the  whole  mass,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  became  one  vast  field  of  moving  floes.     On  the 
10th   of  June,   they  emerged  into  open  water,  a  little 
south  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  in  latitude  65°  30'.    They 
immediately  repaired    to  Godhaven,  on  the  coast  of 
Greenland,  where  they  refitted,  and,  unappalled  by  the 
perils  through  which  they  had  ji.st  passed,  they  once 
more  turned  their  prows  northward  to  encounter  anew 
the  ice  squadrons  of  Baffin's  Bay.     Again  they  trav- 
ersed the  coast  of  Greenland  to  about  the  73d  de- 
gree, when  they  bore  to  the  westward,  and  on  the  7tb 
and  8th  of  July,  passed  the  English  whaling  fleet  near 
the  Dutch  Islands.      Onward  they  pressed   through 
the  accumulating  ice  to   Baffin's   Island,   where,   on 
the  11th,  they  were  joined  by  the  Prince  Albert,  then 
out  upon  another   cruise.     They   continued   in   com- 
pany until  the  3d  of  August,  when  the  Albert  departed 
for  the  westward,  determined  to  try  the  more  south' 
ern  passage.     Here  again  our  expedition  encountered 
vast  fields  of  hummock-ice,  and  were  subjected  to  the 
most  imminent  perils.     The  floating  ice,  as  if  moved  by 
adverse  currents,  tumbled  in  huge  masses,  and  reared 
upon  the  sides  of  the  sturdy  little  vessels  like  monsters 
of  the  deep  intent  upon  destruction.      These  masses 
broke  in  the  bulwarks,  and  sometimes  fell  over  upon 
the  decks  with  terrible  force,  like  rocks  rolled  over  a 
plain  by  mountain  torrents.     The  noise  was  fearful ;  so 
deafening  that  the  marinei'S  could  scarcely  hear  each 
other's  voices.     The  sounds  of  these  rolling  masses,  to- 
gether with  the  rending  of  the  icebergs  floating  near, 
and  the  vast  floes,  produced  a  din  like  the  discharge  of 
a  thousand  pieces  of  ordnance  upon  a  field  of  battle. 
Finding  the  north  and  west  closed  a^i^ainst  further 
progress,  by  impenetrable  ice,  the  brave  De  Haven  was 


I 


esented 
31*8  ;  re- 
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the  ice 
b  began 
pace  of 
^e  could 
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a  little 
■  They 
oast  of 
1  by  the 
By  once 
Ejr  anew 
iy  trav- 
73d  de- 
the  7tb 
3et  near 
through 
ere,  on 
I't,  then 
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uutered 
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masses 
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TilK  AMKUIOAN   ARCTIC  EXPEDITION. 


393 


balked,  and  turning  bis  vessels  homeward,  they  came 
ont  into  an  open  sea,  somewhat  crippled,  but  not  a 
plank  seriously  started.  During  a  storm  off  the  banks 
of  Newfoundland,  a  thousand  miles  from  New  York, 
the  vessels  parted  company.  The  Advance  arrived 
safely  at  the  Navy  Yard  at  Brooklyn  on  the  30th  of 
September,  and  the  Rescue  joined  her  there  a  few  days 
afterward.  Toward  the  close  of  October,  the  govern- 
ment resigned  the  vessels  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Grin- 
nell,  to  be  used  in  other  service,  but  with  the  stipulation 
that  they  are  to  be  subject  to  the  order  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Navy  in  the  spring,  if  required  for  another 
ex])edition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

We  have  thus  given  a  very  brief  account  of  the  prin- 
cipal events  of  interest  connected  with  the  American 
Arctic  Expedition ;  afuU  report  of  which,  and  detailed 
narratives  have  been  published.  Aside  from  the  suc- 
cess which  attended  our  little  vessels  in  encountering  the 
perils  of  the  polar  seas,  there  are  associations  which  must 
forever  hallow  the  eftbrt  as  one  of  the  noblest  exhibitions 
of  the  true  glory  of  nations.  The  navies  of  America  and 
England  have  before  met  upon  the  ocean,  but  they  met 
for  deadly  strife.  Now,  too,  they  met  for  strife,  equally 
determined,  but  not  with  each  other.  They  met  in  the 
holy  cause  of  benevolence  and  human  sympathy,  to 
battle  with  the  elements  beneath  the  Arctic  Circle  ;  and 
the  chivalric  heroism  which  the  few  stout  hearts  of  the 
two  nations  displayed  in  that  terrible  conflict,  redounds 
a  thousand-fold  more  to  the  glory  of  the  actors,  their 
governments,  and  the  race,  than  if  four-score  ships, 
with  ten  thousand  armed  men  had  fought  for  the  mas- 
tery of  each  other  upon  the  broad  ocean,  and  battered 
hulks  and  marred  corpses  had  gone  down  to  the  coral 
caves  of  the  sea,  a  dreadful  offering  to  the  demon  of 
Discord.  In  the  latter  event,  troops  of  widows  and  or- 
phan children  would  have  sent  up  a  cry  of  wail ;  now, 
the  heroes  advanced  manfully  to  rescue  husbands  and 
fathers  to  restore  them  to  their  wives  and  children. 
How  glorious  the  thought !  and  how  suggestive  of  the 
beauty  of  that  fast  approaching  day,  when  the  uAtvvv^ 


t 


'  i 


394 


PHOGUESS  OF  AKCriC   DISCOVERY. 


Bhall  sit  down  in  peace  as   united   children  of  ono 
household. 

Winter  in  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

The  following  narrative,  showing  the  way  tlie  wintei 
of  1851-52  was  passed  by  tliose  engaged  in  the  recent 
arctic  expedition,  is  from  the  official  report  made  by 
Lieut.  De  Haven,  the  Commander  of  the  expedition  : 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  13th  Sept.,  1850,  the  wind 
having  moderated  sufficiently,  we  got  under  way,  and 
working  our  way  through  some  streams  of  ice,  arrived 
in  a  few  hours  at  '  Grilhth's '  Island,  under  the  lee  of 
which  we  found  our  consort  made  fast  to  the  shore, 
where  she  had  taken  shelter  in  the  gale,  her  crew^  hav- 
ing suffered  a  good  deal  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather.  In  bringing  to  under  the  lee  of  the  island, 
she  had  the  misfortune  to  spring  her  rudder,  so  that  on 
joining  us,  it  w^as  with  nnich  difficulty  she  could  steer. 
To  insure  her  safety  and  more  rapid  progress,  she  was 
taken  in  tow  by  the  Advance,  when  she  bore  u])  with 
a  fine  breeze  from  the  westwai'd.  Oii'  Cape  Martyr, 
we  left  the  English  squadron  under  Capt.  Austin. 
About  ten  miles  further  to  the  east,  the  two  vessels  un- 
der Capt.  Penny,  and  that  under  Sir  John  Koss,  w^ere 
seen  secured  near  the  land.  At  8  p.  m..  we  had  ad- 
vanced as  far  as  Cape  Ilotham.  Thence  as  far  as  the 
increasing  darkness  of  the  night  enabled  us  to  see,  there 
was  nothing  to  obstruct  our  progress,  except  the  bay 
ice.  This,  with  a  good  breeze,  would  not  have  im- 
peded us  much ;  butunfortunately  the  wind,  when  it  \vas 
most  required,  failed  us.  The  snow,  with  which  the 
surface  of  the  water  was  covered,  rapidly  cemented, 
and  formed  a  tenacious  coat,  through  which  it  was  im- 
possible with  all  our  appliances  to  force  the  vessels.  At 
8  p.  M.,  they  came  to  a  dead  stand,  some  ten  miles  to 
the  east  of  Barlow's  Inlet. 

"The  following  day  the  wind  hauled  to  the  southward, 
from  which  quarter  it  lasted  till  the  19th.  During  this 
period  the  young  ice  was  broken,  its  edges  squeezed  ui> 


1  of  ono 


lie  wintei 

the  recent 

made  by 

:peclitiun  : 

the  wiiu.l 
way,  and 
:e,  arrived 
the  lee  of 
the  shore, 
crew  hav- 
icy  of  the 
he  isUmd, 
so  til  at  on 
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s,  she  was 
3  11])  with 
e  Martyr, 
t.   Austin, 
'essels  iin- 
^oss,  were 
e  had  ad- 
far  as  the 
►  see,  there 
t  the  bay 

have  im- 
hen  it  was 
which  the 
cemented, 
it  was  im- 
essels.  At 
n  miles  to 


00 


*  i 


onthward, 
Kiring  this 
ueezed  \\\> 


WINTKU    IN   TIIK    AUCilC   OCKAN. 


895 


like  liJiniinocks,  niul  one  floo  overrun  by  niiotlior  until 
it  nil  nssunied  tlio  aj)i)Ojir;incc  <»f  liL'iivy  ice.  The  voy- 
Bcls  received  some  lieuvy  nij»8  tVoni  it,  I)ut  tlicy  witli- 
Btood  tlieni  without  injury.  Whenever  ii  |mm»I  of  water 
nuide  its  appeariinec,  every  ett'nrt  was  made  to  reach  it, 
in  hoi)C8  that  it  would  lead  us  into  l>eeehey  Jshuid,  or 
Bomo  other  place  where  the  vessel  nn«:jht  bo  ]>hice(l  in 
Becurity  ;  for  the  winter  set  in  unusually  early,  and  tho 
Bcvcrity  with  which  it  commenced,  forbade  all  hopes 
of  our  being  able  to  return  this  season.  I  now  became 
anxious  to  attain  a  point  in  the  neighborhood,  fnuu 
whence  by  means  of  land  parties,  in  the  spring,  a  goodly 
extent  of  Wellington  Channel  might  be  examined. 

*'  In  the  mean  time,  imdcr  the  influence  of  the  south 
wind,  wo  were  being  set  up  tho  channel.  On  the  IStli 
we  were  above  Capo  Bowuen,  tho  most  northern  point 
Boon  on  tliis  shore  oy  Parry.  Tho  land  on  both  snores 
was  seen  much  further,  and  trended  considerably  to  tho 
west  of  north.  To  account  for  this  drift,  the  fixed  ico 
of  Wellington  Channel,  which  we  had  observed  in  })ass- 
ing  to  the  westward,  must  have  been  broken  u])  and 
driven  to  tho  southward  by  the  heavy  gale  of  tho  12th. 
On  the  19th  the  wind  veered  to  the  north,  which  gave 
us  a  southerly  set,  forcing  us  at  the  same  tinie  with  tho 
western  shore.  This  did  not  last  long ;  for  the  next  day 
the  wind  liaulod  again  to  the  south,  and  blew  fresh, 
bringing  the  ico  in  upon  us  with  much  ])ressurc.  At 
midnight  it  broke  up  all  around  us,  so  that  we  had  work 
to  maintain  tho  Advance  in  a  safe  ])osition,  and  keep 
her  from  being  separated  from  her  consort,  which  was 
immovably  flxed  in  the  center  of  a  large  floe. 

"  Wo  continued  to  drift  slowly  to  the  N.  N.  W.,  until 
the  22d,  when  our  progress  appeared  to  be  arrested  by 
a  small  low  island,  which  w^as  discovered  in  that  direc- 
tion, about  seven  miles  distant.  A  channel  of  three  or 
four  miles  in  width  separated  it  from  Cornwallis  Island. 
This  latter  island,  trending  N.  W.  from  our  position, 
terminated  abruptly  in  an  elevated  cai)o,  to  M'hich  1 
have  given  the  name  of  Manning,  after  a  warm  ]>er- 
sonal  friend  and  ardent  6uj>porter  of  the  expedition. 


Ii 


i 


r' 


Ki 


'  1 

1 

1  ^ 

t     ■  • 

■ 

fM 

\ 

896 


P110GRES8   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


I' 
I 


Between  Cornwallis  Island  and  some  distant  high  land 
visible  the  north,  appeared  a  wide  channel  leading 
to  the  westward.  A  dark,  misty-looking  cloud  which 
hung  over  it,  (technically  termed  frost-smoke,)  was  in- 
dicative of  much  open  water  in  that  direction.  This 
was  the  direction  in  which  my  instructions,  referring  to 
the  investigations  of  the  National  Observatory,  concern- 
ing the  winds  and  currents  of  tlie  ocean,  directed  me  to 
look  for  open  water.  Nor  was  the  open  water  the  only 
indication  that  presented  itself  in  confirmation  of  this 
theoretical  conjecture  as  to  a  milder  climate  in  that 
direction.  As  we  entered  Wellington  Channel,  the 
signs  of  animal  life  became  more  abundant,  and  Cap- 
tain Penny,  commander  of  one  of  the  English  expe- 
ditions, who  afterward  penetrated  on  sledges  much 
toward  the  region  of  the  '  frost-smoke,'  much  further 
than  it  was  possible  for  us  to  do  in  our  vessels  reported 
that  he  actually  arrived  on  the  borders  of  this  open  sea. 
"Thus,  these  admirably  drawn  instructions,  deriving 
arguments  from  the  enlarged  and  comprehensive  sys- 
tem of  physical  research,  not  only  pointed  with  em- 
phasis to  an  unknown  sea  into  which  Franklin  had 
probably  found  his  way,  but  directed  me  to  search  for 
traces  of  his  expedition  iv  the  very  channel  at  the 
entrance  of  which  it  is  now  ascertained  he  had  passed 
his  first  winter.  The  direction  in  which  search  with 
most  chances  of  success  is  now  to  be  made  for  the 
missing  expedition,  or  for  traces  of  it,  is  no  doubt  in 
the  direction  which  is  so  clearly  pointed  out  in  my  in- 
Btructions.  To  the  channel  which  appeared  to  lead 
into  the  open  sea  over  which  the  cloud  of '  frost-smoke' 
hung  as  a  sign,  I  have  given  the  name  of  Maury,  after 
the  distinguished  gentleman  at  the  head  of  our  National 
Observatory,  whose  theory  with  regard  to  an  open  sea 
to  the  north  is  likely  to  be  realized  through  this  chan- 
nel. To  the  large  mass  of  land  visible  between  N.  W. 
to  N.  N.  E.,  I  gave  the  name  of  Grinnell,  in  honor  of 
the  head  and  heart  of  the  man  in  whose  philanthropic 
mind  originated  the  idea  of  this  expedition,  and  t9 
whose  munificence  it  owes  its  existence. 


AVliNTER   IN   THE   AECriC   OCEAN. 


397 


"  To  a  remarkable  peak  hearing  N.  N.  E.  from  us, 
distant  about  forty  miles,  was  given  the  name  of 
Mount  Franklin.  An  inlet  or  harbor  immediately  to 
the  north  of  Cape  Bowden  was  discovered  by  Mr. 
Griffin  in  his  land  excursion  from  Point  Innes,  on  the 
27th  of  August,  and  has  received  the  name  of  Griffin 
Inlet.  The  small  island  mentioned  before  was  called 
Murdaugli's  Island,  after  the  acting  master  of  the  Ad- 
vance. The  eastern  shore  of  Wellington  Channel  ai> 
peared  to  run  parallel  with  the  western,  but  it  became 
quite  low,  and  being  covered  with  snow,  could  not  bo 
distinguished  with  certainty,  so  that  its  continuity  with 
the  high  land  to  the  north  was  not  ascertained.  Some 
small  pools  of  open  water  appearing  near  us,  an  attempt 
was  made  about  fifty  yards,  but  all  our  combined 
efforts  were  of  no  avail  in  extricating  the  Rescue  from 
her  icy  cradle.  A  change  of  wind  not  only  closed  the 
ice  up  again,  but  threatened  to  give  a  severe  nij).  "We 
unshipped  her  rudder  and  placed  it  out  of  harm's  way. 

"  September  22d,  was  an  uncomfortable  day.  The 
wind  was  from  N.  E.  with  snow.  From  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning,  the  floes  began  to  be  pressed  together 
with  so  much  force  that  their  edge  was  thrown  up  in 
immense  ridges  of  rugged  hummocks.  The  Advance 
was  heavily  nipped  between  two  floes,  and  the  ice  was 
piled  up  so  high  above  the  rail  on  the  starboard  side 
as  to  threaten  to  come  on  board  and  sink  us  with  its 
weight.  All  hands  were  occupied  in  keeping  it  out. 
The  pressure  and  commotion  did  not  cease  till  near 
midnight,  when  we  were  very  glad  to  have  h  respite 
from  our  labors  and  fears.  The  next  day  we  were 
threatened  with  a  similar  scene,  but  it  fortunately 
ceased  in  a  short  time.  For  the  remainder  of  Septem- 
ber, and  until  the  4th  of  October,  the  vessels  drifted 
but  little.  The  winds  were  A'ery  light,  the  thermometer 
fell  to  minus  12,  and  ice  formed  over  the  pools  in  siglit, 
sufficiently  strong  to  travel  upon.  "Vve  were  now 
strongly  impressed  with  the  belief  that  the  ice  had  be- 
come" fixed  for  the  winter,  and  that  we  should  be  able 
to  send  out  traveling  parties  from  the  advanced  position 


ii 


I 

1 


M  '   : 


I 


i  \  '■ 


!    *  <l 


4 


i|!  f 


398 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTTO   DISCOVERY. 


for  the  examination  of  the  lands  to  the  northward 
Stimulated  by  this  fair  prospect,  another  attempt  wan 
made  to  reach  the  shore  in  order  to  establish  a  depo^ 
of  provisions  at  or  near  Cape  Manning,  which  would 
materially  facilitate  the  progress  of  our  parties  in  th^ 
spring  ;  but  the  ice  was  still  found  to  be  detached  froip 
the  shore,  and  a  narrow  lane  of  water  cut  us  from  it. 

"  During  the  interval  of  comparative  quiet,  prelimi- 
nary measures  were  taken  for  heating  the  Advance 
and  increasing  her  quarters,  so  as  to  accomodate  the 
officers  and  crew  of  both  vessels.  No  stoves  had  a» 
yet  been  used  in  either  vessel ;  indeed  they  could  not 
well  be  put  up  without  placing  a  large  quantity  of  stores 
and  fuel  upon  the  ice.  The  attempt  was  made  to  do 
this,  but  a  sudden  crack  in  the  floe  where  it  appeared 
strongest,  causing  the  loss  of  several  tons  of  coal,  con- 
vinced us  that  it  was  not  yet  safe  to  do  so.  It  was  not 
until  the  20th  of  October,  we  got  fires  below.  Ten 
days  later  the  housing  cloth  was  put  over,  and  the  offi- 
cers and  crew  of  the  Bescue  ordered  on  board  the  Ad- 
vance for  the  winter.  Eoom  was  found  on  the  deck  of 
the  Rescue  for  many  of  the  provisions  removed  from 
the  hold  of  this  vessel.  Still  a  large  quantity  had  to 
bo  placed  on  the  ice.  The  absence  of  fire  below  had 
caused  much  discomfort  to  all  hands  ever  since  the  be- 
ginning of  September,  not  so  much  from  the  low  tem- 
perature, as  from  the  accumulation  of  moisture  by 
condensation,  which  congealed  as  the  temperature  de- 
creased, and  covered  the  wood  work  of  our  apartments 
with  ice.  This  state  of  things  soon  began  to  work  its 
effect  upon  the  health  of  the  crews.  Several  cases  of 
scurvy  appeared  among  them,  and  notwithstanding  the 
indefatigable  attention  and  active  treatment  resorted  to 
by  the  medical  officers,  it  could  not  be  eradicated  —  its 
progress,  however,  was  checked. 

"All  through  October  and  November,  we  were  drifted 
to  and  fro  by  the  changing  wind,  but  never  passing  out 
of  Wellington  Channel.  On  the  1st  of  November,  the 
new  ice  had  attained  the  thickness  of  37  inches.  Still, 
frequent  breaks  would  occur  in  it,  often  in  fearful  prox- 


WINTER   IN   THK   AliCTIC    OCEAN. 


399 


n'thward 
mpt  wafl 
a  depo> 
zh  would 
es  in  the 
:hed  frorp 
Tom  it. 
,  prelimi- 
Advance 
odate  the 
38  had  as 
could  not 
y  of  stores 
ide  to  do 
appeared 
coal,  con- 
It  was  not 
ow.     Ten 
id  the  offi- 
'd  the  Ad- 
le  deck  of 
>ved  from 
ity  had  to 
)elow  had 
ce  the  be- 
low tem- 
>isture  by 
rature  de- 
partments 
)  work  its 
cases  of 
Inding  the 
[esorted  to 
ited  —  its 

Ire  drifted 
issing  out 
Iraber,  the 
les.  Still, 
Irful  prox- 


imity to  the  vessels.     ITnmmocks  consisting  of  massive 
granite-like  blocks,  would  be  thrown  up  to  the  lieight 
of  twenty,  and  even  thirty  feet.     This  action  in  the  ice 
was  accompanied  with  a  variety  of  sounds  impossible 
to  be  described,  but  when  heard  never  failed  to  carry  a 
feeling  of  awe  into  the  stoutest  hearts.     In  the  stillness 
of  an  arctic  night,  they  couhl  be  heard  several  miles, 
and  often  was  the  rest  of  all  hands  disturbed  by  them. 
To  guard  against  the  worst  that  could  happen  to  us  — 
the  destruction  of  the  vessels  —  the  boats  were  prepared 
and  sledges  built.     Thirty  days'  provisions  were  placed 
in  for  all  hands,  together  with  tents  and  blanket  bags 
for  sleeping  in.     Besides  this,  each  man  and  officer  had 
his  knapsack  containing  an  extra  suit  of  clothes.     Tliese 
were  all  kept  in  readiness  for  use  at  a  moment's  notice. 
"  For  the  sake  of  wholesome  exercise,  as  well  as  to  in- 
ure the  people  to  ice  traveling,  frequent  excursions  were 
made  with  our  laden  sledges.    The  officers  usually  took 
the  lead  at  the  drag  ropes,  and  they,  as  well  as  the  men 
underwent  the  labor  of  surmounting  the  rugged  hum- 
mocks, with  great  cheerfulness  and  zeal.      Notwith- 
standing the  low  temperature,  all  hands  usually  returned 
in  a  profuse  perspiration.     We  had  also  other  sources 
of  exercise  and  amusements,  such  as  foot-ball,  skating, 
sliding,  racing,  with  theatrical  representations  on  holi- 
days and  national  anniversaries.     These  amusements 
were  continued  throughout  the  winter,  and  contributed 
very  materially  to  the  cheerfulness  and  general  good 
'lealth  of  all  hands.    The  drift  had  set  us  gradually  to 
the  S.  E.,  until  we  were  about  five  miles  to  the  S.  W, 
Df  Beechey  Island.    In  this  position  we  remained  com- 
paratively stationary  about  a  week.     We  once  more 
began  to  entertain  a  hope  that  we  had  become  fixed  for 
the  winter,  but  it  proved  a  vain  one,  for  on  the  last  day 
of  November  a  strong  wind  from  the  westward  set  in, 
with  thick  snowy  weather.    The  wind  created  an  im- 
mediate movement  in  the  ice.     Several  fractures  took 
place  near  us,  and  many  heavy  hummocks  were  thrown 
up.    The  floe  in  which  our  vessels  were  imbedded,  was 
being  rapidly  encroached  upon,  so  that  we  were  in  mo- 


'^.^ 


y 


!  HI 


J  I 


400 


PKOGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVEKY. 


mentary  fear  of  tbe  ice  breaking  from  around  them, 
and  that  tlicy  would  be  once  more  broken  out  and  left 
to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  crashing  floes. 

"  On  the  following  day  (the  1st  of  December)  tlie 
weather  cleared  off,  and  the  few  hours  of  twilight 
which  «ve  had  about  noon,  enabled  us  to  get  a  glim})se 
of  the  land.  As  well  as  we  could  make  it  out,  we  ap- 
peared to  be  off  Gascoigne  Inlet.  "VVe  were  now  clear 
of  Wellington  Channel,  and  in  the  fair  way  of  Lan- 
caster Sound,  to  be  set  either  up  or  down,  at  the  mercy 
of  the  prevailing  winds  and  currents.  "We  were  not 
long  left  in  doubt  as  to  the  direction  we  had  to  pursue. 
The  winds  prevailed  from  the  westward,  and  our  drift 
was  steady  and  rapid  toward  the  mouth  of  the  Sound. 
The  prospect  before  us  was  now  any  thing  but  cheering. 
"We  were  deprived  of  our  last  fond  hope,  tiiat  of  be- 
coming fixed  in  some  position  whence  operations  could 
be  carried  on  by  means  of  traveling  parties  in  the 
spring.  The  vessels  were  fast  being  set  out  of  the 
region  of  search.  Nor  was  this  our  only  source  of  un- 
easiness. The  line  of  our  drift  was  from  two  to  five 
miles  from  the  north  shore,  and  whenever  the  moving 
ice  met  with  any  of  the  capes  or  projecting  points  of 
land,  the  obstruction  would  cause  fractures  in  it,  ex- 
tending oif  to  and  far  beyond  us.  Cape  Hurd  was  the 
first  and  most  prominent  point  —  we  were  but  two 
miles  from  it  on  the  3d  of  December.  Nearly  all  day 
the  ice  was  both  seen  and  heard  to  be  in  constant  mo- 
tion at  no  great  distance  from  us.  In  the  evening  a 
crack  on  our  floe  took  place  not  more  than  twenty -five 
yards  ahead  of  the  Advance.  It  opened  in  the  course 
of  tiic  evening  to  the  width  of  190  yards. 

"  No  further  disturbance  took  place  until  noon  of  the 
5th,  when  we  were  somewhat  startled  by  the  familiar 
and  unmistakable  sound  of  the  ice  grinding  against 
the  side  of  the  ship.  Going  on  deck,  I  perceived  that 
another  crack  had  taken  place,  passing  along  the  length 
of  the  vessel.  It  did  not  open  more  than  a  foot ;  tliis, 
Iiowever,  was  sufficient  to  liberate  the  vessel,  and  sho 
rose  several  inches  bodily,  having  become  more  buoy- 


m\> 


them, 
d  left 

i)  the 
ilight 
impse 
VQ  ap- 
clear 
:  Laii- 
mercy 
re  not 
lursne. 
T  drift 
Sound. 
3ering. 
of  be- 
5  could 
in  the 
of  the 
I  of  un- 
to five 
noving 
ints  of 
it,  ex- 
as  the 
:t  two 
11  day 
^nt  mo- 
tning  a 
ity-tive 
course 

of  the 

imiliar 

igainst 

id  that 

[length 

;  this, 

id  she 

buoy- 


WINTER   IN   TIIK    ARCTIC   OCKAN. 


401 


ant  since  she  froze  in.  Tlio  following  day,  in  the 
evening  the  crack  opened  several  yards,  leaving  the 
sides  01  the  Ad^ancc  entirely  free,  and  slie  was  once 
more  supported  by  and  rode  in  her  own  element.  "We 
were  not,  though,  by  any  means,  in  a  pleasant  situation. 
The  floes  were  considerably  broken  in  all  directions 
around  us,  and  one  crack  had  taken  place  between  the 
two  vessels.  The  Rescue  was  not  disturbed  in  her  bed 
of  ice* 

"  December  7th,  at  8  A.  M.,  the  crack  in  which  we 
were,  had  opened  and  formed  a  lane  of  water  fifty-six 
feet  wide,  communicating  ahead  at  the  distance  of  sixty 
feet  with  ice  of  about  one  foot  in  thickness,  which  had 
formed  since  the  3d.  The  vessel  was  secured  to  the 
largest  floe  near  us  (that  on  which  our  spare  stores  were 
deposiited.)  At  noon,  the  ice  was  again  in  motion, 
and  began  to  close,  affording  us  the  pleasant  prospect 
of  an  inevitable  nip  between  two  floes  of  the  heaviest 
kind.  In  a  short  time  the  prominent  points  took  our 
side,  on  the  starboard,  just  about  the  main-rigging,  and 
on  tiie  port  under  the  counter,  and  at  the  fore-rigging ; 
thus  bringing  three  points  of  pressure  in  such  a  position 
that  it  muiit^have  proved  fatal  to  a  larger  or  less 
strengthened  vessel.  The  Advance,  however,  stood  it 
bravely.  After  trembling  and  groaning  in  every  joint, 
the  ice  passed  under  and  raised  her  about  two  and 
a  half  feet.  She  was  let  down  again  for  a  moment, 
and  then  her  stern  was  raised  about  five  feet.  Her 
bows  being  unsupported,  were  depressed  almost  as 
much.  In  this  uncomfortable  position  we  remained. 
The  wind  blew  a  gale  from  the  eastward,  and  the  ice 
all  around  was  in  dreadful  commotion,  excej^ting,  for- 
tunately, that  in  immediate  contact  with  us.  Tlie  com- 
motion in  the  ice  continued  all  through  the  night;  and 
we  were  in  momentary  expectation  of  the  destruction 
of  both  vessels.  Tiie  easterly  gale  had  set  us  some 
two  or  three  miles  to  the  west.  As  soon  as  it  was  light 
enough  to  see  on  the  9th,  it  was  discovered  that  the 
heavy  ice  on  which  the  Eescue  had  been  imbedded 
for  so  long  a  time,  was  entirely  broken  up,  and  piled 


.  t .' 


ti 

I  '.I 


•  (1    ;.( 


'■^.Ui.-M,>-*ilUU^ 


403 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


up  around  her  in  massive  hummocks.  On  her  pumps 
behig  sounded,  I  was  gratified  to  learn  that  she  remained 
tight,  notwithstanding  the  immense  straining  and 
pressure  she  must  have  endured. 

"  During  this  period  of  trial,  as  well  as  in  all  former 
and  subsequent  ones,  I  could  not  avoid  being  struck 
with  the  calmness  and  decision  of  the  officers,  as  well 
as  the  subordination  and  good  conduct  of  the  men, 
without  an  exception.  Each  one  knew  the  imminence 
of  the  peril  that  surrounded  us,  and  was  prepared  to 
abide  it  with  a  stout  heart.  There  was  no  noise,  no 
confusion.  I  did  not  detect,  even  in  the  moment  when 
the  destruction  of  the  vessel  seemed  inevitable,  a  sin- 
gle desponding  look  among  the  whole  crew ;  on  the 
contrary,  each  one  seemed  resolved  to  do  his  whole 
duty,  and  every  thing  went  on  cheerily  and  bravely. 
For  my  own  part,  I  had  become  quite  an  invalid,  so 
much  so  as  to  prevent  my  taking  an  active  part  in  the 
duties  of  the  vessel  as  I  had  always  done,  or  even  from 
incurring  the  exposure  necessary  to  proper  exercise. 
However,  I  felt  no  apprehensions  that  the  vessel  would 
not  be  properly  taken  care  of,  for  I  had  perfect  confi- 
dence in  one  and  all  by  whom  I  was  surrounded.  I 
knew  them  to  be  equal  to  any  emergency,  but  I  felt 
under  special  obligations  to  the  gallant  commander 
of  the  Rescue,  for  the  efficient  aid  he  rendered  me. 
With  the  kindest  consideration,  and  the  most  cheerful 
alacrity ,  he  volunteered  to  perform  the  executive  duties 
during  the  winter,  and  relieve  me  from  every  thing 
that  might  tend  in  the  least  to  retard  my  recovery. 

"  During  the  remainder  of  December,  the  ice  re- 
mained quiet  immediately  around  us,  and  breaks  were 
all  strongly  cemented  by  new  ice.  In  our  neighbor- 
hood, however,  cracks  were  daily  visible.  Our  drift 
to  the  eastward  averaged  nearly  six  miles  per  day ;  so 
that  on  the  last  of  the  month  we  were  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Sound,  Cape  Osborn  bearing  north  from  us. 

"January,  1851. —  On  passing  out  of  the  Sound,  and 
opening  Baffin's  Bay,  to  the  north  was  seen  a  dark  hori- 
zon, indicating  much  open  water  in  that  direction.     On 


limps 

ained 

and 

ormer 

struck 

,8  well 

I  men, 

inenoe 

ired  to 

lise,  no 

twhen 

,  a  sin- 
on  tVie 

\  whole 

)ravely. 

alid,  80 

"t  in  the 

en  from 

ixercise. 

si  would 

>t  confi- 

ided.    I 

.  1 1  felt 
mander 

Ired  me. 

Icheerful 
e  duties 

|ry  thing 

jvery. 

ice  re- 

lIvS  were 

eiglihor- 

ur  drift 

day ;  so 

intrance 

us. 
Iund,and 
lark  hori- 
lon.     On 


WINTER   IN   THE   ARCTIC   OCEAN. 


403 


the  11th,  a  crack  took  place  between  us  and  the  Hescue, 
passing  close  under  our  stern,  and  forming  a  lane  of 
water  eighty  feet  wide.  In  the  afternoon  the  floes  be- 
^an  to  move,  the  lane  was  closed  up,  and  the  edges  of 
the  ice  coming  in  contact  with  so  much  pressure,  threat- 
ened the  demolition  of  the  narrow  space  which  sepa- 
rated us  from  the  line  of  fracture.  Fortunately,  the 
floes  again  separated,  and  assumed  a  motion  by  which 
the  Rescue  passed  from  our  stern  to  the  port  bow,  and 
increased  her  distance  from  us  709  yards,  where  she 
came  to  a  stand.  Our  stores  that  were  on  the  ice  were 
on  the  same  side  of  the  cracks  as  the  Rescue,  and  of 
course  were  carried  with  her.  The  following  day  the 
ice  remained  quiet,  but  soon  after  midnight,  on  the 
13th,  a  gale  having  sprung  up  from  the  westward,  it 
once  more  got  into  violent  motion.  The  young  ice  in 
the  crack  near  our  stern  was  soon  broken  up,  the  edges 
of  the  thick  ice  came  in  contact,  and  fearful  pressures 
took  place,  forcing  up  a  line  of  hummocks  which  ap- 
proached within  ten  feet  of  our  stern.  The  vessel 
trembled  and  complained  a  great  deal. 

"  At  last  the  floe  broke  up  around  us  into  many 
pieces,  and  became  detached  from  the  sides  of  the 
vessel.  The  scene  of  frightful  commotion  lasted  until 
4  A.  M.  Every  moment  I  expected  the  vessel  would 
be  crushed  or  overwhelmed  by  the  massive  ice  forced 
up  far  above  our  bulwarks.  The  Rescue  being  further 
removed  on  the  other  side  of  the  crack  from  the  line 
of  crushing,  and  being  firmly  imbedded  in  heavy  ice, 
I  was  in  hopes  would  remain  undisturbed.  This  was 
not  the  case ;  for,  on  sending  to  her  as  soon  as  it  was 
light  enough  to  see,  the  floe  was  found  to  be  broken 
away  entirely  up  to  her  bows,  and  there  formed  into 
such  high  hummocks  that  her  bowsprit  was  broken  ofl', 
together  with  her  head,  and  all  the  light  wood  work 
about  it.  Had  the  action  of  the  ice  continued  much 
longer,  she  must  have  been  destroyed.  We  had  the 
misfortune  to  find  sad  havoc  had  been  made  among 
the  stores  and  provisions  left  on  the  ice ;  and  few  bar- 
rels were  recovered ;  but  a  large  portion  were  crushed 
and  liad  dit«aj>poared. 


.  i 


W 


404 


riiOOiiESS    OV   AUCTIO   DISCOVEliY. 


"  On  the  morning  of  the  14th  there  was  again  some 
motion  in  tlie  floes.  That  on  the  port  side  moved  oif 
from  the  vessel  two  or  three  feet  and  there  became 
stationary.  This  left  the  vessel  entirely  detached 
from  the  ice  round  the  water  line,  and  it  was  expected 
she  would  once  more  resume  Jin  upright  position.  In 
this,  however,  we  were  disa})p()inted,  for  she  remained 
with  her  stern  elevated,  and  a  C(msiderable  lift  to  star- 
board, being  hold  in  this  uncomfortable  position  by  the 
heavy  masses  which  had  been  forced  uncfer  h'er  bottom 
She  retained  this  position  until  she  finally  broke  out 
in  the  spring.  We  were  now  fully  launched  into  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  and  our  line  of  drift  began  to  be  more  south- 
erly, assuming  a  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the 
western  shore  of  the  Bay  at  a  distance  of  from  40  to 
70  miles  from  it. 

"  After  an  absence  of  87  days,  the  sun,  on  the  29th 
of  January,  rose  his  whole  diameter  above  the  south- 
ern horizon,  and  remained  visible  more  than  an  hour. 
All  hands  gave  vent  to  delight  on  seeing  an  old  friend 
again,  in  three  hearty  che  irs.  The  length  of  the  days 
now  w^ent  on  increasing  rapidly,  but  no  warmth  was 
yet  experienced  from  the  sun's  rays ;  on  the  contrary 
tl.e  cold  became  more  intense.  Mercury  became  con- 
gealed in  February,  also  in  March,  which  did  not  occur 
at  any  other  period  during  the  winter.  A  very  low 
temperature  was  invariably  accompanied  with  clear 
and  calm  weather,  so  that  our  coldest  days  w^ere  per- 
haps the  most  pleasant.  In  the  absence  of  wind,  we 
could  take  exercise  in  the  open  air  without  any  incon- 
venience from  the  cold.  But  with  a  strong  wind  blow 
ing,  it  was  dangerous  to  be  exposed  to  its  chilling  blasts 
for  any  length  of  time,  even  when  the  thermometer 
indicated  a  comparatively  moderate  degree  of  tem- 
perature. 

"  The  ice  around  the  vessels  soon  became  cemented 
again  and  fixed,  and  no  other  rupture  was  experienced 
until  it  finally  broke  up  in  the  spring,  and  allowed  us 
to  escape.  Still  we  kept  driving  to  the  southward 
along  with  the  "  hole  mass.     Open  lanes  of  water  were 


n  some 
ved  oif 
became 
itiiched 
cpected 
on.  In 
mained 
to  star- 
i  by  the 
bottom 
oke  out 
ito  Baf- 
3  soiith- 
ith  the 
m40  to 

he  29th 
e  south- 
in  hour, 
i  friend 
he  days 
ith  Avas 
ontrary 
lie  con- 
jt  occur 
sry  low 
h  clear 
are  per- 
ind,  we 
r  incon- 
d  blow 
12;  blasts 
ometer 
)f  tem- 

mented 
rienced 
wed  us 
thward 
3r  were 


'i 


t 


.'  > 


ill 


I 


WINTER   IN   THE   AKOTIC   OCKAN. 


405 


visible  at  all  times  from  aloft ;  sometimes  tliey  would 
be  formed  within  a  mile  or  two  of  us.  Narwlials, 
seals,  and  dovekys  were  seen  in  them.  Our  sports- 
men were  not  expert  enough  to  procure  any,  except  a 
few  of  the  latter ;  although  they  were  indefatigable  in 
their  exertions  to  do  so.  Bears  would  frequently  be 
seen  prowling  about;  only  two  were  killed  during  the 
winter ;  others  were  wounded,  but  made  their  escape. 
A  few  of  us  thought  their  flesh  very  palatable  and 
wholesome ;  but  the  majority  utterly  rejected  it.  The 
flesh  of  the  seal,  when  it  could  be  obtained^  was  re- 
ceived with  more  favor. 

"  As  the  season  advanced,  the  cases  of  scurvy  became 
more  numerous,  yet  they  were  all  kept  under  control 
by  the  unwearied  attention  and  skillful  treatment  of 
tlie  medical  officers.  My  thanks  are  due  to  them,  es- 
pecially to  Passed  Assistant  Surgeon  Kane,  the  senior 
medical  officer  of  the  expedition.  I  often  had  occa- 
sion to  consult  him  concerning  the  hygiene  of  the 
crew,  and  it  is  in  a  great  measure  owing  to  the  advice 
which  he  gave  and  the  expedients  which  he  recom- 
mended, that  the  expedition  was  enabled  to  return 
without  the  loss  of  one  man.  By  the  latter  end  of 
February  the  ice  had  become  sufficiently  thick  to  en- 
able us  to  build  a  trench  around  the  stern  of  the  Res- 
cue, sufficiently  deep  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the 
injury  she  had  received  in  the  gale  at  Griffith's  Isl- 
and. It  was  not  found  to  be  material ;  the  upper  gud- 
geon alone  had  been  wrenched  from  the  stern  post.  It 
was  adjusted,  and  the  rudder  repaired  in  readiness  for 
shipping,  when  it  should  be  required.  A  new  bow- 
sprit was  also  made  for  her  out  of  the  few  spare  spars 
we  had  left,  and  every  thing  made  seaworthy  in  both 
vessels  before  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice. 

'•In  May,  the  noon-day  began  to  take  effect  upon  the 
snow  which  covered  the  ice  ;  the  surface  of  the  floes 
became  w^atiery,  and  difficult  to  walk  over.  Still  the 
dissolution  was  so  slow  in  comparison  with  the  mass 
to  be  dissolved,  that  it  must  have  taken  it  a  long  pe- 
riod to  become  liberated  from  this  cause  alone.    Moro 


n- 


•  I 


U 


,  p^; 


■'1 


^         1 


tj 


400 


rROOUKSS   OP   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


wa8  expected  from  our  Bouthcrly  drift,  wliich  still  (^on- 
tinned,  and  must  soon  carry  us  into  a  milder  cliinato 
and  o])on  sea.  On  the  19th  of  May,  the  land  about 
Capo  Searle  was  made  out,  the  first  that  wo  had  rc(mi 
since  passing  Cape  Walter  Bathurst,  about  the  20th  of 
January.  A  few  days  later  we  were  oil'  Cape  AValsiuir. 
ham,  and  on  the  27th,  passed  out  of  the  Arctic  Zoim. 

"  On  the  1st  of  April,  a  hole  was  cut  in  some  ice  iluit 
had  been  forming  since  our  first  bcsetment  in  Septem- 
ber; it  was  found  to  have  attained  the  thickness  of  7 
feet  2  inches.  In  this  month,  (April,)  the  amelioration 
of  the  temperature  became  quite  sensible.  All  hands 
were  kept  at  work,  cutting  and  sawing  the  ice  around 
tho  vessels,  in  order  to  allow  them  to  float  once  more. 
With  the  Kescue,  they  succeeded,  after  much  labor,  in 
attaining  this  object ;  but  around  the  stern  of  the  Ad- 
vance, the  ice  was  so  thick  that  our  13  feet  saw  was  too 
short  to  pass  through  it ;  her  bows  and  sides,  as  far  aft 
as  the  gangway,  were  liberated.  After  making  some 
alteration  in  the  Rescue  for  the  better  accommodation 
of  lier  crew,  and  fires  being  lighted  on  board  of  her 
several  days  previous,  to  remove  the  ice  and  dampness, 
which  had  accumulated  during  the  winter,  both  ofHcers 
and  crew  were  transferred  to  lier  on  the  24th  of  April 
The  stores  of  this  vessel,  which  had  been  taken  oat, 
were  restored,  the  housing  cloth  taken  off,  and  the  ves- 
sel made  in  every  respect  ready  for  sea.  There  M^as 
little  prospect,  however,  of  our  being  able  to  reach  the 
desired  element  very  soon.  Tho  nearest  water  was  a 
narrow  lane  more  than  two  miles  distant.  To  cut 
through  the  ice  which  intervened,  would  have  been  next 
to  impossible.  Beyond  this  lane,  from  tho  mast-head, 
nothing  but  intermediate  floes  could  bo  seen.  It  was 
thought  best  to  wait  with  patience,  and  allow  nature  to 
work  for  us. 

"  June  6th,  a  moderate  breeze  f.om  S.  E.  with  pleasant 
weather  —  thermometer  up  to  40  at  noon,  and  altogether 
quite  warm  and  melting  day.  During  the  morning  a 
pecvdiar  cracking  sound  was  heard  on  the  floe.  I  was 
inclined  to  impute  it  to  tho  settling  of  the  snow  drifts  as 


^VINTEU   IN   TllK   ARCTIO   OCKAN. 


407 


thoy  wore  actoil  upon  by  the  sun,  but  in  tlio  afternoon, 
about  5  o'clock,  the  i)Uzzlo  was  8i>l\'ed  very  lucidly,  aiui 
to  the  exceed  inn;  satistaction  of  all  hands.  A  crack  in 
the  iloo  took  i)lace  between  us  and  the  Kcscue,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  thereafter,  the  whole  immense  field  in 
which  we  had  been  ind)ed(led  for  so  many  months, 
was  rent  in  all  directions,  leavin^^  not  a  piece  of  100 
yards  in  diameter.  The  rupture  M'as  not  accompanied 
with  any  noise.  The  Itcscuc  was  entirely  liberated, 
the  Advance  only  ])artially.  The  ice  in  which  her  after 
part  was  ind)ed(led,  still  adhered  to  her  from  the  main 
chains  aft,  keeping  lier  stern  elevated  in  its  unsightly 
position.  The  pack,  (as  it  may  now  be  called,)  became 
(pnto  loose,  ana  but  for  our  ])e;tinacious  friend  acting 
as  an  immense  drag  upon  us,  we  might  have  made 
some  headway  in  any  desired  direction.  All  oiu'  eftbrts 
were  now  turned  to  getting  rid  of  it.  "With  saws,  axes, 
and  crowbars,  the  people  went  to  work  with  a  right 
good  will,  and  after  hard  labor  for  48  hours  succeeded. 
The  vessel  was  again  afloat,  and  she  righted.  The  joy 
of  all  hands  vented  itself  spontaneously  in  three  hearty 
cheers.  The  after  part  of  the  false  keel  was  gone,  be- 
ing carried  away  by  the  ice.  The  loss  of  it,  liowever, 
I  was  glad  to  perceive,  did  not  materially  aft'ect  the 
sailing  or  workmg  qualities  of  the  vessel.  The  rudders 
were  shipped,  and  we  were  once  more  ready  to  move, 
as  efficient  as  on  the  day  we  left  New  York. 

"Steering  to  the  S.  E.  and  working  slowly  through  the 
loose  but  heavy  pack,  on  the  9th  we  parted  from  the 
Kescue  in  a  dense  fog,  she  taking  a  dinerent  lead  from 
the  one  the  Advance  was  pui-suing." 


H 


it 


i^i 


'}•■ 


•  'I 


I 


if 


•pr 


408 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


Ground  for  Hope. 


Mr.  "Wm.  Penny,  of  Aberdeen,  states  in  a  letter  to 
the  Times,  that  Capt.  Martin,  who,  when  commanding 
the  whaler  Enterprise,  in  1845,  was  the  last  person  to 
communicate  with  Sir.  J.  Franklin,  has  just  informed 
him  that  the  Enterprise  was  alongside  the  Erebus,  in 
Melville  Bay,  and  Sir  John  Franklin  invited  him, 
(Capt.  Martin,)  to  dine  with  him,  which  the  latter  de 
clined  doing,  as  the  wind  was  fair  to  go  south.  Sir 
John,  while  conversing  with  Capt.  Martin,  told  him 
that  he  had  five  years'  provisions,  which  he  could 
make  last  seven,  and  his  people  were  busily  engaged 
in  salting  down  birds,  of  which  they  had  several  casks 
full  already,  and  twelve  men  were  out  shooting  more. 
"To  see  such  determination  and  foresight,"  observes 
Mr.  Penny,  "  at  that  early  period,  is  really  wonderful, 
and  must  give  us  the  greatest  hopes."  Mr.  Penny 
says  that  Capt.  Martin  is  a  man  of  fortune,  and  of  the 
strictest  integrity. 

The  following  is  the  deposition  of  Capt.  Martin,  just 
received  in  the  London  Times,  of  Jan.  1,  1852,  con- 
taining the  facts  above  alluded  to : 

Robert  Martin,  now  master  and  commander  of  the 
whaleship  Intrepid,  of  Peterhead,  solemnly  and  sin- 
cerely declares  that  on  the  22d  day  of  July,  1845,  when 
in  command  of  the  whale  ship  Entei prise,  of  Peter- 
head, in  lat.  YS**  10',  long.  66^  W.,  calm  weather,  and 
towing,  the  Erebub  and  Terror  were  in  company.  These 
ships  were  alongside  the  Enterprise  for  about  fifteen 
minutes.  The  declarant  conversed  with  Sir  John 
Franklin,  and  Mr.  Reid,  his  ice-master.  The  conver- 
sation lasted  all  the  time  the  ships  were  closf .  That 
Sir  John,  in  answer  to  a  question  by  the  declarant  if 
he  had  a  good  supply  of  provisions,  and  how  long  he 
expected  them  to  last,  stated  tliat  he  had  provisions 
for  five  years,  and  if  it  were  necessary  he  could  "make 
them  spin  out  seven  years ;"  and  he  said  further,  that 
he  would  lose  no  opportunity  of  killing  birds,  and 
whatever  else  was  useful  that  came  in  the  way,  to  keep 


GfiOUND  FOR  HOPE. 


409 


up  their  stock,  and  that  he  had  plenty  of  powder  and 
shot  for  the  purpose.  That  Sir  John  also  stated  that 
he  had  already  several  casks  of  birds  salted,  and  had 
then  two  shooting  parties  out  —  one  from  each  ship. 
The  birds  were  very  numerous ;  many  would  fall  at  a 
single  shot,  and  the  declarant  has  himself  killed  forty 
at  a  shot  with  white  pease.  That  the  birds  are  very 
agreeable  food,  are  in  taste  and  size  somewhat  like 
young  pigeons,  and  are  called  b}^  the  sailors  "  rotges." 

That  on  the  26th  or  28th  of  said  month  of  July,  two 
parties  of  Sir  John's  officers,  who  had  been  out  shoot- 
ing, dined  with  the  declarant  on  board  the  Enterprise. 
There  was  a  boat  with  six  from  each  ship.  Their  con- 
versation was  to  the  same  effect  as  Sir  John's.  They 
spoke  of  expecting  to  be  absent  four  or  five,  or  per- 
haps six  years.  These  officers  also  said  that  the  ships 
would  winter  where  they  could  find  a  convenient  place, 
and  in  spring  push  on  as  far  as  possible,  and  so  on 
year  after  year,  as  the  determination  was  to  push  on 
as  far  as  practicable. 

That  on  the  following  day,  an  invitation  was  brought 
to  the  declarant,  verbally,  to  dine  with  Sir  John,  but 
the  wind  shifted,  and  the  Enterprise  having  cut  through 
the  ice  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  declarant  was 
obliged  to  decline  the  invitation.  That  he  saw  the 
Erebus  and  Terror  for  two  days  longer;  they  were 
still  lying  at  an  iceberg,  and  the  Enterprise  was  mov- 
ing slowly  down  the  country.  That  so  numerous  were 
the  birds  mentioned,  and  so  favorable  was  the  weather 
for  shooting  them,  that  a  very  large  number  must  have 
been  secured  during  the  time  the  declarant  was  in 
eight  of  the  two  ships.  The  Prince  of  "Wales  whaler 
w^s  also  within  sight  during  the  most  of  the  time. 
That  from  the  state  of  the  wind  and  weather  for  a  pe- 
riod of  10  days,  during  part  of  which  the  declarant 
'Vas  not  in  sight  of  the  two  ships,  the  best  opportunity 
was  afforded  for  securing  the  birds.  That  the  birds 
described  are  not  to  be  found  at  all  places  on  the  fish- 
ing ground  during  the  whaling  season,  but  are  met 
with  in  vast  numbers  every  season  on  certain  feeding 


I   ' 


i 


V. 


V 


>    ;l 

5r       (I 


.!'!■■ 


410 


PROGEESa   OF  ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


li 


banks  ana  places  for  brooding,  and  it  appeared  at  the 
time  by  the  declarant  to  be  a  most  fortunate  circum- 
stance that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  had  fallen  in  with 
80  many  birds,  and  that  the  state  of  the  weather  was 
80  favorable  for  securing  large  numbers  of  them.  The 
declarant  has  himself  had  a  supply  of  the  same  de- 
scription of  birds,  which  kept  fresh  and  good  during 
three  months,  at  Davis'  Strait,  and  the  last  were  as 
good  as  the  first  of  them. 

Which   declaration,  above  written,  is   now  made 
conscientiously,  believing  the  same  to  be  true. 

Robert  Martin. 

Declared,  December,  29th,  1851,  before 

R.  Grath,  Provost  of  Peterhead. 


VOYAGE  OF  Till-:  STKAMER  ISABEL. 


411 


A  Suntmer's  SEARcn  for  Sir  John  Franklin,  with  a 
Pass  into  the  Polar  Basin,  by  Commander  E.  A. 
Inolefield,  in  tue  Screw  Steamer  Isabel,  in  1852. 

The  profound  interest  wbich  the  heroism  and  mys- 
terious fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  have  excited  in  the 
public  mind,  occasioned  other  expeditions  to  start  in 
pursuit  of  him,  both  from  England  and  the  United 
States,  the  details  of  whose  adventures  are  in  tlie 
highest  degree  entertaining.  On  the  12th  of  July, 
1852,  Commander  Inglefield  took  his  departure  in 
the  English  steamer  Isabel,  from  Fair  Island;  and 
sailed  forth  toward  the  frozen  realms  of  the  north,  to 
which  so  many  other  bold  adventurers  had  already 
been  attracted.  His  crew  consisted  of  seventeen  per- 
sons, including  two  ice-masters,  a  mate,  surgeon,  en- 
gineer, stoker,  two  carpenters,  cook,  and  eight  able 
seamen,  who  had  been  whalers.  The  two  ice-masters, 
Messrs.  Abernethy  and  Manson,  were  already  well 
known  in  "Arctic  Cirles,"  as  having  been  connected 
with  former  expeditions,  and  as  having  great  experi- 
ence in  the  perils  incident  to  adventurous  travel  in 
that  perilous  zone.  The  vessel  was  provided  with 
fuel  and  provisions  for  several  years. 

On  the  30th  of  July  the  expedition  gained  their 
first  distant  glimpse  of  the  snowy  mountains  of  Green- 
land. On  the  same  day  the  first  icebergs  sailed  ma- 
jestically past  them.  Ere  midnight  the  Isabel  was 
completely  surrounded  by  those  massive  monuments 
of  the  northern  seas.  Already  the  utmost  caution 
was  necessary  to  prevent  a  fatal  collision  between 
tliem  and  the  little  steamer  which  slowly  and  adroitly 
elbowed  her  way  through  their  rolling  masses.  In 
spite  of  the  utmost  prudence,  the  Isabel  occasionally 
struck ;  instantly  she  trembled  from  stem  to  stern, 
recoiled  for  a  moment,  but  then  again  recovered  and 
advanced  upon  her  way.  T'le  advantages  of  a  screw- 
steamer  for  the  purposes  of  navigating  polar  seas 
filled  with  fioating  ice,  were  already  apparent  at  this 


I  .: 


W 


^¥ 


1 


I»r,       i: 

h, 
8' 


If",  ^« 


i  ;| 


'1    *:l! 


412 


PROGRESS  OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


early  stage  of  the  expedition.  Tlie  propelling  power 
being  placed  at  the  stern  of  the  vessel,  and  not  at 
the  sides,  enabled  her  to  worm  her  way  nnresisted 
through  very  many  narrow  defiles,  which  a  steam- 
ship of  ordinary  structure,  or  even  a  sailing  vessel 
could  not  have  done. 

On  the  7th  of  August  the  expedition  reached  the 
neighborhood  of  Fiskernoes,  a  Danish  settlement; 
and  they  were  there  visited  by  some  Esquimaux  in 
their  canoes.  Guided  b^  these  pilots  they  entered 
the  harbor  on  which  their  village  is  built.  They  vis- 
ited the  Danish  governor,  M.  Lazzen,  and  were  kindly 
entertained  by  him.  A  few  goats  supplied  his  family 
with  milk,  and  a  very  small  garden  protected  from 
the  storms  of  that  climate  by  artificicial  means,  af- 
forded them  a  few  vegetables  during  the  summer 
months.  M.  Lazzen  furnished  the  vessel  with  some 
salmon,  codfish,  and  milk.  The  residence  of  the  gov- 
ernor in  this  inhospitable  region,  consisted  of  a  small 
house  two  stories  high,  built  in  an  antique  but  sub- 
stantial manner.  A  Danish  clergyman  visits  this  ob- 
scure and  remote  spot  once  every  two  weeks,  and 
preaches  to  the  governor  and  to  the  colony  of  rude 
Esquimaux  over  whom  he  rules. 

On  the  10th  of  August  the  Isabel  resumed  her 
journey.  She  then  sailed  for  the  harbor  of  Lievely, 
in  which  the  expedition  obtained  a  few  supplies  of 
sugar,  soap,  and  plank,  which  they  needed  ;  but  they 
tailed  to  obtain  here  either  dogs  or  interpreters.  On 
the  15th,  they  found  themselves  o  ff  Upernavick,  a 
settlement  in  which  they  obtained  these  necessaries. 
This  Greenland  village  consists  of  two  or  three 
w^ooden  houses  for  the  Danish  settlers,  and  a  few  mud 
huts  for  the  Esquimaux.  In  sailing  out  from  this 
harbor  the  steam-engine  suddenly  stopped,  and  nei- 
ther the  commander  nor  the  engineer  was  able  to 
discover  the  difficulty.  They  were  completely  puz- 
zled, until  at  length  it  was  ascertained  that  the  screw 
at  the  stern  had  caught  in  a  loose  cable  which  floated 


TOYAOE  OF  THE  STEAMER  ISABEL. 


413 


in  the  water,  which  had  become  wound  around  the 
screw  so  tightly  and  in  such  a  manner,  as  to  eventu- 
ally impede  its  revolutions  and  stop  the  engine. 

After  the  adjustment  of  this  singular  and  unusual 
difficulty,  the  vessel  continued  her  voyage.  On  the 
17th  of  August  she  reached  Biichan  Islands,  passing 
in  her  way  innumerable  icebergs  of  gigantic  size, 
which  reeled  and  tumbled  in  the  deep,  and  occasion- 
ally split  up  into  many  fragments,  with  a  roar  more 
grand  and  deafening  than  that  of  thunder.  On  this 
day  the  vessel  lost  her  main-boom ;  which  in  falling  on 
the  deck,  struck  the  standard  compass  and  damaged 
it.  In  a  short  time  the  injuries  to  both  were  re- 
paired, and  the  Isabel  held  on  her  hyperborean  way. 

Having  arrived  at  Wolstenholmo  Sound,  the  navi- 
gators examined  the  site  of  the  former  winter  quar- 
ters of  the  "North  Star,"  and  had  the  melancnoly 
pleasure  of  inspecting  the  lonely  graves  where  the 
remains  of  sevend  of  her  crew  were  laid  to  repose. 
Captain  Ingletield  and  his  officers  and  men  went  on 
shore  with  pickaxes  and  shovels.  The  place  is  called 
North  Ornenak ;  and  one  Adam  Beek,  a  seamen  in 
one  of  the  former  Arctic  expeditions,  had  asserted 
that  here  Sir  John  Franklin  had  been  assailed  by  the 
savage  and  starving  natives ;  that  here  he  and  his 
crew  had  beea  massacred ;  and  that  here  in  large 
cairns  they  had  been  buried.  The  story  was  an  im- 
probable one  ;  but  Captain  Inglelield  determined  to 
examine  the  spot  thoroughly,  and  test  the  truth  of 
the  report.  Several  large  cairns  were  indeed  here 
found,  composed  of  heavy  rough  stones.  They  were 
immediately  pulled  down  and  their  interiors  inspected. 
But  nothing  was  discovered  save  a  large  quantity  of 
lish  bones  and  the  bones  of  other  animals,  which 
seem  to  have  been  deposited  there  for  some  future 
use.  In  the  village  itself,  composed  of  a  few  un- 
derground hovels,  occupied  by  half  starved  Esqui- 
maux, were  found  a  quantity  of  seal  and  walrus  iiesh, 
intended  to  supply  the  wants  of  nature  during  the 

26 


;  . 


H ! '  'i 


\y^\ 


>,.t 


414 


PROORESfl  OF  AitCnO  DISCOVERT. 


nine  long  months  of  winter,  which  these  wretched 
beings  are  compelled  each  year  to  endure. 

Captain   Inglefield   determined   to   continue   the 
thorough  examination  of  the  shores  of  Wolstenholme 
Sound.     He  did  so,  and  discovered  several  islands 
which  were  not  to  be  found  on  any  chart.     These 
islands  he  respectively  termed  the  Three  Sister  Bees, 
Manson  Isle,  and  Abernethy  Isle.     During  this  por- 
tion of  the  cruise,  the  voyageurs  had  not  encoun- 
tered as  yet  much  of  the  severe  extremes  of  northern 
cold.     It  w^as  still  mid-summer,  and  the  trim  steamer 
was  able  in  the  absence  of  compact  ice,  to  sail  rap- 
idly through  known  and  unknown  seas,  in  opposition 
both  to   tide   and  wind.     Ou   the   25th,  the  Isabel 
reached  the  Gary  Islands  ;  and  from  this  point  began 
the   voyage   of  Captain   Ingleiield  into  untraveled 
waters,  and  into  regions  which  had  not  been  explored, 
at  least  in  a  northward  direction,  by  any  of  his  pre- 
decessors.    At  this  point,  in  the  summer  months,  a 
few  wretched  Esquimaux  manage  to  support  exist- 
ence ;    and   Captain   Ingleiield   carefully   examined 
their  huts  to  ascertain  whether  any  memento  of  the 
expedition  of  Sir  John  Franklin  might  exist  among 
them.    No   article   of   European   manufacture   was 
found,  except  a  knife-blade  stamped  B.  Wilson,  set  in 
an  ivory  handle,  a  broken  tin  canister,  and  several 
small  pieces  of  steel,  curiously  fixed  in  a  piece  of  bone. 
A  piece  of  rope  was  also  obtained,  having  an  eye  in 
it ;  but  this  was  supposed  to  have  drifted  ashore  from 
some  whaling  vessel.     No  trace  of  the  lost  naviga- 
tors had  as  yet  been  seen  since  the  commencement 
of  this  expedition. 

Captain  Inglefield  resumed  his  voyage,  and  as  he 
rapidly  invaded  those  new  seas,  through  the  tireless 
power  of  steam,  he  discovered  many  new  islands,  at 
that  period  of  the  year  free  from  their  monstrous  bur- 
dens of  ice,  to  which  he  gave  appropriate  names. 
One  he  called  Northumberland  Island,  another  Her- 
bert Island)  and  a  third,  Milne  Island.    At  this  point 


VOYAOE  OF  THE  STEAMER  ISABEL. 


416 


itched 

e   the 
holme 
slands 
These 
•  Bees, 
is  por- 
ncoun- 
>rthern 
teamer 
,il  rap- 
osition 
Isabel 
t  began 
raveled 
:plored, 
his  pre- 
jnths,  a 

exist- 
amined 

of  the 

among 

re   was 

set  in 
I  several 
)f  bone. 

eye  in 
Ire  from 
Inaviga- 
Icement 

as  he 
Itireless 
Lnds,  at 
lus  bur- 
I  names, 
jr  Her- 
tg  point 


a  strait,  to  which  he  applied  the  name  of  Mnrchison, 
opened  out  in  an  eastern  direction,  and  invited  them 
to  enter  on  its  exploration,  witli  tempting  prospects 
of  discovery.  But  as  Sir  John  Franklin's  instructions 
had  been  to  travel  northward  and  westward  from  this 
point,  if  he  ever  reached  it,  it  was  evidently  necessa- 
ry to  follow  that  designated  route,  if  the  intention  to 
seek  him  was  still  retained.  Accordingly  Captain  In- 
glefield  was  compelled  to  relinquish  the  exploration 
of  this  summer  sea.  On  the  26th  of  August  the  Is- 
abel reached  Cape  Alexander,  and  still  boldly  steer- 
ing northward,  the  gallant  craft  passed  the  confines 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  and  was  about  to  make  her  adven- 
turous dip  into  the  Polar  Basin.  The  soundings  at 
this  point  were  145  fathoms.  It  was  at  this  time  the 
hope  of  Captain  I.  that  from  this  point  he  might  find 
his  way  to  Behring's  Strait,  and  might  discover  the 
missing  navigator  somewhere  upon  this  remote  line 
of  travel. 

Even  in  this  distant  northern  latitude,  the  weather 
still  remained  fair  and  temperate.  The  splendors  of 
that  clime  in  mid-summer,  transcend  the  power  of 
language  to  depict.  The  sun,  shooting  his  unob- 
structed rays  far  into  the  northern  hemisphere,  tinges 
the  boundless  fields  of  half  melted  snow  with  crimson 
hues ;  and  a  brightness  and  brilliancy  fill  the  heav- 
ens, which  almost  remind  the  observer  of  the  boasted 
beauties  and  charms  of  an  Italian  sky.  Those  Polar 
solitudes  now  resounded  with  the  unaccustomed  ech- 
oes of  the  steamship,  which  glided  rapidly  over  half 
frozen  wastes,  which  sailing  vessels  could  only  have 
traversed  at  a  very  slow  and  tedious  rate. 

Captain  Ingletield  was  now  exploring  what  is 
known  as  Smitli's  Sound,  the  upper  or  northern  con- 
tinuation of  Baffin's  Bay.  The  western  shore  of  this 
body  of  water,  which  forms  a  part  of  the  Polar  Ocean, 
was  composed  of  a  high  range  of  frozen  mountains. 
These  were  called  after  the  Prince  of  Wales.  The 
extreme  northern  point  of  these  mountains  received 


i.:^  i 


If     ?i 


416 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


the  name  of  Victoria  Head,  in  honor  of  the  British 
queen.    Thus  also  on  the  eastern  shore  of  this  sea,  the 
most  northern  point  discovered  by  Captain  I.  he  named 
after  the  Danish   monarch,  Frederick  YII.     After 
steaming  several  days  longer  in  a  north-western  di- 
rection, an  observation  was  made  of  the  position  of 
the  vessel,  when  it  was  found  that  she  had  reached 
78^  28'  21"  north  latitude.     From  this  it  appears  that 
Captain  Inglefield  has  the  credit,  according  to  his  own 
computation,  of  reaching  the  distance  of  140  miles 
further  north  than  had  been  attained  by  any  previ- 
ous navigator.     The  vessel  was  now  surrounded  by 
immense  floating  icebergs.    The  frozen  shores  of  the 
ocean  receded  far  away  to  the  east  and  to  the  west.   A 
furious  storm  of  wind  and  hail  drove  directly  in  the 
face  of  the  bold  navigators,  as  they  continued  their 
course  toward  the  pole.    !N"o  traces  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin had  yet  been  discovered.     To  further  persist  in 
the  course  in  which  they  were  then  sailing,  was  only 
calculated  to  hem  them  in  with  the  oceans  of  ice 
which  the  rapidly  approaching  winter  would  congeal 
around  them ;   and  the  moment  had  arrived,  in  the 
progress  of  the  expedition,  when  it  became  necessary 
to  determine  what  final  course  should  be  pursuet^. 
While  the  commander  and  his  ofiicers  were  deliber- 
ating on  the  most  suitable  decision  to  be  selected, 
the  vessel  was  suddenly  surrounded  with  perils  such 
as  she  had  not  encountered  since  the  commencement 
of  the  voyage.    A  vast  land-pack  of  ice  had  floated 
from  the  west,  unperceived  through  the  heavy  fog ; 
and  immediately  the  Isabel  became  involved  in  its 
angry,  turbulent,  and  dangerous  embrace.    The  swell 
lifted  the  ship  far  into  the  pack ;  and  the  violence 
and  fury  of  the  troubled  masses  were  indicated  by 
the  loud  roar  of  the  waters  surging  on  the  vast  floe- 
pieces  by  which  the  vessel  was  surrounded.    The 
frightful  chaos  of  rolling  masse    tossing  the  vessel  to 
and  fro  like  a  feather  in  their  midst,  seemec*  to  render 
escape  from  the  impending  peril  of  being  either 


VOYAGE  OP  THE  STEAMER  ISABEL. 


417 


crushed  or  subniergjcd,  almost  impossible.  Tlie  only 
possibillity  of  rescue  consisted  in  threading  their  way 
amid  the  rolling  and  tossing  fragments,  by  the  aid  of 
the  steam  engine,  after  first  getting  the  head  of  the 
vessel  free  from  its  contact  with  the  ice.  As  the  ves- 
sel carefully  and  slowly  went  forward  amid  the  float- 
ing ice,  immense  masses  dropped  astern  one  after  an- 
other into  her  wake.  She  escaped  at  length  through 
every  danger ;  though  the  edges  of  the  fan  of  the 
screw  were  brightened  from  frequent  abrasion  against 
the  ice. 

Captain  Inglefield  now  continued  to  sail  eastward. 
He  passed  by  and  observed  new  islands  which  were 
then  unknown  and  nameless,  to  which  he  applied  ap- 
propriate epithets.  On  the  1st  of  September  the  sea 
had  become  so  completely  encumbered  with  the  float- 
ing ice  as  to  make  the  further  progress  of  the  vessel 
bothdiiUcult  and  dangerous,  Captain  Inglefiald  then 
determined  to  steer  for  the  purpose  of  meeting  the 
squadron  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  which  had  also  been 
sent  out  for  the  purpose  of  searching  those  seas  for 
Sir  John  Franklin  by  the  British  government ;  and 
which  would  winter  there  in  accordance  with  their 
instructions.  Captain  Inglefield  was  induced  to  pur- 
sue this  course  in  order  that  he  might  carry  his  sur- 
plus provisions,  stores,  and  coals  to  that  squadron ; 
and  that  he  might  convey  to  them  the  latest  news  and 
information  from  Eiigland.  It  was  his  intention  then, 
unless  some  special  service  required  his  exertions,  to 
return  to  England  with  intelligence  from  the  squad- 
ron of  Sir  L.  Belcher,  and  the  prospects  of  success 
which  still  attended  their  labors  of  discovery.  That 
squadron  Captain  Inglefield  knew  was  then  stationed 
at  Beechey  Island,  and  thither  he  immediately  steered. 
So  severe  had  the  weather  already  become,  that  the 
heavy  seas  which  broke  over  the  Isabel  continually 
froze,  and  her  bows  became  one  mass  of  ice,  binding 
the  anchor  fast  to  her  side.  After  several  days  ot 
rapid  sailing,  Beechey  Island  was  reached ;  but  the 


iri 

If 

: 

t 
i 

; 

i    . 

1                  i 

1  ' 

i,  - 

1   , 
i 

1          '  ; 

i 

M 


S  1 


!    } 


>' 


418 


PROORK88  OP  ARCTIO  DISCOVERT. 


North  Star  alone  was  found  there.  The  rest  of  Sir 
E.  Belcher's  squadron  had  sailed,  ahout  three  weeks 
l>eforo,  up  Wellint^ton  channel,  and  it  was  supposed 
that  he  had  steered  thenco  tlirough  the  open  waters 
beyond  Parry  Strait. 

It  was  on  tliis  Island  that  Captain  Inlegfield  was 
shown  tlio  tliree  graves  of  some  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
crew,  to  which  reference  has  already  been  made  on 
page   376   of  this  volume.     Plunging  through   the 
snow  which  was  knee-deep,  he  readied,   under  the 
guidance  of  one  of  the  officers  of  the  North  Star,  those 
sad  and  lonely  resting  places  of  mortality.     He  found 
them  unchanged   from  what  they  hacl   been  when 
visited   by   Lieutenant  Do  Haven ;  and  he  was  in- 
formed by  his  guide  that  a  polar  bear  of  monstrous 
size  was  irequently  seen  keeping  his  grim  and  cheer- 
less vigils  over  tlie  dead,  and  sitting  on  the  graves. 
Captain  Inglefield  picked  up  some  of  tlie  meat  canis- 
ters which  lay  scattered  on  the  island,  and  some  relics 
of  canvas  and  wood  which  were  supposed  to  have  be- 
longed to  the  missing  ships.     He  obtained  from  the 
commander  of  the  North  Star  all  the  information  ne- 
cessary in  reference  to  the  condition  and  prospects  of 
Sir  John  Belcher  and  Captain  Kellett,  both  of  whom 
held  commands  in  that  squadron.    They  had  as  yet 
discovered  no  trace  of  Sir  John  Franklin ;  but  it  was 
their  purpose  to  pass  the  winter  in  the  Polar  Seas,  for 
the  purpose  of  renewing  their  researches  in  the  en- 
suing spring. 

As  this  voyage  of  the  Isabel  was  only  a  summer 
cruise,  and  as  the  vessel  was  neither  adapted  nor  in- 
tended to  confront  the  overwhelming  rigors  of  the 
winter  season  in  the  Arctic  regions,  it  was  but  proper 
that,  as  the  season  was  now  rapidly  advancing,  Cap- 
tain Inglelield  should  resume  his  voyage  homeward, 
to  escape  the  greater  perils  which  delay  would  entail. 
Accordingly,  on  the  10th  of  September  the  Isabel  com- 
raencou  to  sail  in  a  southern  direction.  On  the  12th 
she  reached  Mount  Possession.    On  the  14th  she  was 


YOTAOE  OF  THE  BTBAMER  ISABEL, 


419 


opposite  Capo  Bowen.  Captain  Inglefiolcl  landed 
hero  to  oxamiiio  tlio  traces  ot  a  cairn,  which  was  said 
to  exist.  Hut  ho  saw  nothing  save  the  large  and  deep 
footprints  of  a  great  Polar  bear,  and  those  of  the  small 
Arctic  fox. 

Here  the  further  progress  of  tlie  Isabel  along  the 
coast  was  stopped  by  the  presence  of  vast  fields  of  ice. 
It  became  necessary  to  press  along  the  edge  of  the 
pack,  and  seek  for  an  opening  to  permit  Tier  to  ad- 
vance. This  pack  seemed  to  have  been  collected 
here  by  the  immense  icel^ergs  which  had  run  aground 
on  the  Ilecla  and  Griper  banks,  and  thence  drifted 
south  by  the  continual  current  which  existed  on  those 
western  shores.  The  pack  stretched  away,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  both  southward  and  northward. 
A  storm  of  snow  came  on,  such  as  one  sees  only  in 
Arctic  latitudes.  Tiie  sea  also  became  exceedingly 
rough  and  boisterous;  and  wave  after  wave  broke 
over  the  whole  length  of  the  vessel.  Each  plunge 
filled  the  rigging  and  hung  the  spars  with  monstrous 
icicles ;  and  the  waves  froze  as  they  flooded  the  deck, 
the  ropes,  and  the  sails ;  so  that  the  hands  of  the  sail- 
ors were  frozen  fast  the  instant  they  touched  either 
of  them. 

On  the  21st  of  September  the  weather  moderated, 
and  the  Isabel  boldly  dashed  through  the  crevices 
and  channels  of  the  pack.  Pancake  ice  was  rapidly 
forming  around  them,  giving  the  mariners  warning 
that  they  must  soon  vacate  that  locality,  or  else  be 
frozen  in,  beyond  the  power  of  deliverance,  for  the 
winter.  Kapidly  the  Isabel  dashed  forward,  impelled 
by  the  unwearied  power  of  her  engine.  By  noon  on 
the  23d,  she  had  cleared  the  pack,  had  traveled  a  hun- 
dred and  seventeen  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  and 
found  herself  in  69°  north  latitude.  Here  Captain 
Ingletield  encountered  a  gale  of  the  utmost  fury, 
which  continued  during  live  days  incessantly.  The 
ocean  waves  now  attained  tiie  size  of  mountams,  and 
exceeded  in  violence  and  fury  even  those  which  lash 


:  I 


1' 


'if 


\  • 


<       !l 


I 


420 


PB00RB8S   OF  AUCTIO  DISCOVERT. 


the  bold  promontory  of  Capo  TTorn,  wlicre  tlio  waters 
of  two  jjjreiit  oceans  roll  together  in  hoHtile  rivalry. 
Vast  waves  continually  flooded  the  decks  fore  and 
aft.  Torrents  of  water  drenched  almost  every  portion 
of  the  vessel,  carrying  the  seamen  with  it  into  the  lee 
scuppers.  The  drifting  sleet  and  snow  drove  so  fierce- 
ly into  the  eyes  of  the  sailors,  that  it  was  almost  im- 
possible for  them  to  see,  or  to  execute  orders.  Nev- 
ertheless, the  gallant  ship  sailed  manfully  through  it 
all,  and  safely  outrode  the  gale,  though  with  the  loss 
of  her  spare  spars,  and  the  total  ribboning  of  her 
sails. 

In  order  to  repair  this  damage  Captain  Inglefield 
was  compelled,  after  the  storm  lulled,  to  steer  for  the 
nearest  port  of  llolsteinburg,  in  order  to  make  repairs. 
This  port  he  reached  on  the  2d  of  October.  During 
the  week  which  the  captain  spent  here,  the  anniver- 
sary of  the  birth-day  of  the  king  of  Denmark  occurred ; 
which  gave  an  occasion  for  the  observation  of  the 
peculiarities  of  the  Esquimaux  tribes,  who  here  live 
as  the  remotest  subjects  of  that  monarch,  under  the 
superintendence  of  a  governor  sent  from  Copenhagen. 
An  entertainment  was  given  at  the  house  of  the  gov- 
ernor. Esquimaux  of  both  sexes  attended,  danced 
their  native  dances,  drank  their  brandy-punch  fur- 
nished both  by  the  governor  and  by  Captain  Ingle- 
Held,  and  became  elated  and  uproarious  in  the  ex- 
treme. The  governor's  wife  was  an  Esquimaux  wo- 
man ;  and  Captain  Inglefield  had  the  honor  of  exe- 
cuting with  her  the  intricate  mazes  oi  an  Esquimaux 
quadrille,  to  the  monotonous  scraping  of  a  crippled 
fiddle,  bound  around  and  held  together  with  divers 
strings  and  splinters. 

On  the  7tli  of  October  the  Isabel  again  put  to  sea, 
and  again  she  encountered  a  storm  of  unusual  vio* 
lence.  The  helmsman  was  very  nearly  washed  over- 
board.    On  the  loth  the  gale  moderated,  and  the 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  8TKAMEK  ISABEL. 


421 


vessel  then  continued  her  way  across  tlic  Atlantic. 
No  incident  wortliy  ot'spocial  notice  occurriMl  durinnj 
the  rest  of  the  lioniewurd  voyaujo.  On  the  -Ith  of  No- 
vember theilsahel  anchored  at  Stroniness,  liaviiiij^  heon 
absent  precisely  four  nioiiths  from  tlie  day  of  startiui^. 
And  although  this  expedition,  taking  place  as  it  did 
in  tlio  summer  months,  was  devoid  of  the  usual  ex- 
treme horrors  and  vicissitudes  whicli  attend  Arctic 
researches,  it  accomplished  results  which  wore  by  no 
means  of  secondary  importance.  Captain  Ingletield 
carefully  examined  the  unknown  eastern  shore  of  the 
Polar  liasin,  as  far  north  as  78°  35',  throwing  con- 
siderable light  upon  the  disputed  question,  wliether 
Baffin's  Bay  opens  into  the  Polar  Basin.  Ho  also 
explored  the  waters  of  the  shores  of  Smith  Sound,  in 
search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  but  in  vain.  Jones 
Sound  was  then  examined,  with  the  same  result,  and 
he  ascertained  the  probable  fact  that  this  sound  is  a 
gulf  having  no  outlet,  except  perhaps  by  some  small 
frozen  strait  into  the  Polar  Sea.  Lancaster  Sound 
was  also  visited,  and  the  western  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay 
as  far  south  as  the  river  Clyde.  Throughout  a  coast 
of  six  hundred  continuous  miles,  many  alterations  and 
additions  were  made  in  the  geography  of  those  coun- 
tries. And  altogether,  for  a  private  expedition  of 
no  very  great  expense,  executed  in  a  small  vessel, 
though  amply  provisioned  and  stored,  the  results  at- 
tained were  as  important  as  could  reasonably  have 
been  expected. 

Eighteen  months  in  the  Polar  Regions  in  search  of 
Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition,  in  the  years 
1850 — 51,  BY  Lieutenant  Sherard  Osborn,  with 
the  Steam  Vessels  !lf  ioneer  and  Intrepid. 

In  May,  1850,  this  expedition  was  fitted  out  at 
Woolwich,  for  the  purpose  of  continuing  the  search 
after  the  missing  mariners.  The  instructions  of  the 
British  Admirality  to  the  commander  were,  that  he 


t 

1 

I    ' 

i      1 

^ 

k 

>     • 


422 


PROGRESS  OP  ARCnO  DISCOVERY. 


should  examine  Barrow's  Straits  south-westerly  to 
Cape  Walker,  westerly  toward  Melville  Island,  and 
north-westerly  up  Wellington  Channel. 

On  the  26th  of  May  the  expedition  approached  the 
shores  of  Greenland,  and  came  within  view  of  Cape 
Farewell.  They  proceeded  rapidly  on  until  they 
reached  their  first  place  of  stoppage,  the  Whale  Fish 
Isles.  A  day  was  spent  here  in  taking  in  provisions 
and  fowls.  From  this  point  the  view  of  the  shores 
of  Greenland  at  a  distance  was  picturesque  in  the 
extreme.  Its  glaciers,  its  lofty  peaks,  and  its  frozen 
headlands  presented  every  variety  of  shape ;  while 
between  them  and  the  vessels,  the  sea  was  covered 
with  an  infinite  variety  of  tossing  icebergs  of  every 
possible  size  and  proportion,  exhibiting  the  richest 
emerald  hues,  and  glowing  with  the  deepest  azure 
tints.  The  awful  silence  of  the  scene  was  impressive 
in  the  highest  degree,  a  silence  which  would  often  be 
suddenly  broken  by  a  distant  roar  reverberating 
along  the  surface  of  the  deep,  and  among  the  frozen 
masses.  It  was  the  breaking  up  of  some  vast  ice- 
bergs, whose  fragments  would  roll  over  into  the  sea, 
plunge  beneath  its  surface,  and  cover  the  spot  of  its 
descent  with  foam  and  spray.  This  process  was  re- 
peated at  short  intervals,  in  every  direction  of  the 
compass  around  them,  and  as  far  as  their  eyes  could 
reach. 

The  29th  of  June  still  found  Captain  Osborn  cruising 
opposite  the  northern  extremity  of  Greenland.  He 
here  began  to  experience  the  dangers  that  accom- 
panied the  necessity  which  he  sometimes  felt  of  an- 
choring to  icebergs.  This  operation  is  frequently  in- 
dispensable in  Arctic  regions,  when  progress  in  the 
required  direction  is  for  a  time  iTnpossible.  The  ice- 
bergs in  consequence  of  their  immense  size  are  often 
aground,  and  thus  seamen  may  anchor  fast  to  them 
in  two  hundred  fathoms  of  water,  without  any  more 
trouble  than  digging  a  hole  in  the  iceberg,  and  in- 
serting a  hook  into  it,  called  an  ice-anchor.    This  is 


LIEUTENANT  OSBOEN's   EXPEDITION. 


423 


attached  to  a  whale  line,  which  enables  the  ship  to 
ride  out  under  the  lee  of  this  natural  breakwater,  and 
often  thus  to  escape  both  the  violence  of  the  winds, 
and  the  rude  shocks  of  a  lee  pack. 

But  the  dangers  which  sometimes  accompany  this 
process  are  considerable.  Sometimes  the  very  first 
stroke  of  the  man  setting  the  ice-anchor,  causes  a  por- 
tion of  the  iceberg  to  break  off,  and  the  persons  <in\' 
ployed  in  the  work  run  great  risk  of  being  crushed  b) 
the  falling  masses.  Sometimes  pieces  of  ice  become 
detached  from  the  upper  portions  of  the  berg,  and 
falling  on  the  ships  below,  have  injured  spars,  and 
crushed  sailors  to  death.  Occasionally  these  masses 
have  been  so  immense  as  even  to  sink  the  vessel. 

On  the  6th  of  July  Captain  Osborn  had  his  first 
experience  of  the  real  perils  of  the  Arctic  world.  All 
hands  were  at  dinner  when  the  news  suddenly  came 
down  from  the  deck,  that  a  vast  body  of  ice  was  ap- 
proaching under  the  pressure  of  a  strong  southerly 
gale.  A  heavy  brown  vapor  preceded  it,  under 
which  the  ice  gleamed  fiercely,  and  the  fioes  were  rap- 
idly pressing  together.  The  best  security  against 
danger  in  cases  of  this  kind,  is  the  preparation  of 
docks  in  the  body  of  the  ice,  which  are  cut  in  the 
portion  which  is  firm  and  solid.  Into  these  the  ships 
are  then  inserted,  and  they  are  thus  protected  from 
the  collisions  of  the  loose  fragments.  In  this  cuse 
one  hundred  persons  were  instantly  on  the  solid  ice, 
their  triangles  were  rigged,  and  their  long  ice-saws 
were  at  work.  A  hundred  manly  voices  accompanied 
tlieir  labor  with  the  jolly  sailor  songs  of  merry  old 
England.  The  ice  was  about  three  feet  in  thicJinesb, 
and  the  saws  employed  were  ten  feet  in  length.  Very 
soon  the  vast  cavity  intended  torec&ive  the  ships  began 
to  take  form  and  shape,  and  they  then  were  removed 
into  them.  The  relief  was  ntuch  need'^d;  for  the 
pressure  of  the  pack  extended  itself  some  ten  miles 
to  the  north  of  the  position  of  the  vessels ;  the  col- 
lisions between  the  floes  and  the  iceberg  became  pro- 


II 


•-  , 


I  I' 


1 


.1  ji 


,   -1     II 


424 


PE0GKE8S  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


Jl! 


digious ;  and  had  the  snips  been  between  them,  they 
would  inevitably  have  suffered  severely.  But  safely 
ensconced  in  their  docks,  the  expert  seamen  could 
gaze  with  pleasure  at  the  sublime  spectacle  presented 
lor  many  miles  on  either  side  of  them. 

In  spite  of  the  vigilance  of  Capt  Osborn,  his  ships 
became  entangled  on  the  20th  of  July,  in  the  midst 
of  a  heavy  pack,  six  feet  in  thickness.  So  great  was 
the  pressure  that  every  plank  and  timber  was  crack- 
ing and  groaning.  The  vessels  were  thrown  over  on 
their  sides,  and  lifted  up  bodily,  the  bulkheads  crack- 
ing, the  decks  arching  from  the  strain,  and  even  the 
scupper-pieces  turning  out  from  their  mortices.  The 
ice  was  rapidly  piling  up  as  high  as  the  bulwarks, 
around  the  vessels.  There  seemed  to  be  no  possible 
remedy  against  the  destruction  of  the  ships.  The 
sailors  quickly  brought  their  bundles  of  clothes  ou 
deck,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  refuge  on  the  ice. 
At  this  moment  a  deep  dent  in  the  side  of  the  Pion- 
eer, and  the  breaking  of  twenty-one  of  her  timbers, 
indicated  her  great  danger.  But  fortunately,  at  the 
very  moment  when  it  was  thought  that  she  must  be 
crushed  to  pieces,  the  strain  of  the  floe-edge  suddenly 
eased,  and  the  ship  was  saved  from  destruction. 

From  the  20th  to  the  31st  of  July  the  squadron  con- 
tinued to  pursue  their  route ;  yet  so  impenetrable  was 
the  ice,  tnat  but  seven  miles  was  made  during  the 
whole  of  that  interval,  in  the  right  direction  I  By 
the  13th  of  August  the  squadron  nad  passed  through 
Mellville  Bay,  and  had  reached  Cape  York.  They 
were  still  a  considerable  distance  from  the  chief  point 
of  research.  Yet  here  they  were  detained  for  two 
days  in  chasing  up  the  groundless  fabrication  of  Ad- 
am Beek,  alluded  to  in  the  previous  article,  in  refer- 
ence to  the  destruction  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
crews  at  this  point,  by  the  native  Esquimaux. 

On  the  15tli  of  August  Captain  Osborn  struck  west- 
ward, and  entered  a  wide  sea  of  water  which  seemed 
unobstructed  by  the  ice.    The  shores  of  this  portion 


LIEUTENANT  08B0RN  8  EXPEDITION. 


425 


of  Baffin's  Bay,  which  is  termed  the  West  Land,  ap- 
peared to  be  free  from  snow,  and  to  be  even  compar- 
atively verdant  and.  genial.  At  Button's  Point  the 
commander  landed,  and  was  able,  at  this  season  of 
the  summer,  to  kill  both  deer  and  salmon.  The  na- 
tives of  this  region  had  here  erected  numerous  un- 
roofed winter  houses,  of  the  rudest  structure ;  and 
the  navigators  di  ;covered  many  cairns,  standing  gen- 
erally in  pairs.  These  were  instantly  pulled  down, 
for  the  purpose  of  discovering  their  hidden  contents. 
Nothing  however  was  found  of  a  suspicious  or  sug- 
gestive nature.  These  cairns  seemed  to  be  nothing 
but  marks  erected  by  the  Esquimaux,  to  enable  them 
to  discover,  on  the  return  of  winter,  the  places  where 
they  had  stored  their  sea-blubber  cacM.  A  ring  of 
stones  several  feet  high  were  all  the  indications  of 
these  Esquimaux  Imts  which  appeared  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground. 

It  was  on  the  22d  of  August  that  this  expedition 
entered  Lancaster  Sound.  This  is  the  great  gate-way 
to  those  Arctic  waters,  around  which  so  many  thrill- 
ing associations  cluster  of  maritime  adventure,  sufter- 
ing,  and  discovery.  It  was  lirst  explored  by  the  bold 
Baffin,  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  was  named  by 
him  after  the  duke  of  Lancaster.  Baffin  termed  it  a 
sound.  Sir  John  Koss,  forty  years  since,  discovered 
that  it  was  a  bay ;  and  Parry,  who  has  not  unlitly 
been  termed  the  prince  of  Arctic  navigators,  until 
the  vastly  superior  abilities  and  services  of  the  im- 
mortal Kane  justly  deprived  him  of  that  honorable 
eminence,  explored  this  bay  throughout  the  extent  of 
600  miles  toward  Behring^fci  Straits. 

It  was  to  complete  the  exploration  of  the  remain- 
ing 600  miles  of  this  unknown  region,  that  the  expe- 
dition of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  140  gallant  asso- 
ciates had  been  devoted.  Hence  in  pursuing  this 
line  of  travel  and  adventure.  Lieutenant  Osborn 
justly  supposed  that  he  was  following  the  most  prob- 
able and  most  certain  course  to  ascertain  the  fate  of 


It 


■I 


\ 

i 


i'i 


.;i  i 


I ' 


■V 


I!  i 


426 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


that  lost  and  unfortunate  expedition.     He  had  al- 
ready dificovered  one  important  fact  in  reference  to 
the  phenomena  of  the  Arctic  regions ;  or  if  he  had 
not  absolutely  discovered  it,  he  ascertained  its  cer- 
tainty.   This  was  that  the  iceberg,  the  most  wonder- 
ful peculiarity  of  those  climes,  is  the  creation  of  the 
glacier.    It  had  formally  been  supposed,  even  by  the 
most  learned,  that  the  iceberg  was  the  accumulation 
of  the  ice  and  snow  which  the  lapse  of  ages  had  pro- 
duced ;  that  a  vast  circle  of  ice  many  miles  in  height 
and  depth,  surrounded  the  pole  like  an  eternal  belt ; 
that  these  huffe  cupolas  of  ice  towered  far  up  into 
the  cheerless  lieavens  of  the  north  ;  transcending  in 
size  and  altitude  the  utmost  creations  of  human  arch- 
itecture ;   and  that  these  stupendous  icebergs  were 
merely  fragments  which  had  become  detached,  prob- 
ably by  their  own  weight,  from  the  parent  mass,  and 
had  then  floated  away  into  more  southern  seas.     This 
fanciful  conception  has  now  been  exploded ;  and  it 
ic  proved  that  the  iceberg  is  only  known  to  exist 
where  there  is  land  of  a  nature  adapted  to  form  the 
glacier.     Accordingly,  Captain  Osborn  reasoned  that 
where   icebergs  burdened  the   ocean,  glacier  lands 
could  not  be  far  distant ;  and  he  directed  the  move- 
ments of  his  exploring  squadron  accordingly.     It  was 
by  following  this  principle  that  Sir  James  Ross  dis- 
covered the  circumpolar  continent  of  Queen  Victo- 
ria's Land,  in  the  Southern  or  Antarctic  hemisphere. 
On  the  26th  of  August  the  ships  entered  Regent's 
Inlet.    The  nights  were  only  two  hours  in  duration. 
Next  day  a  pack  of  ice  was  discovered  some  10  miles 
to   the   eastward.     They  instantly  sailed  westward, 
giving  the  intruders  very  wide  sea-room.     They  soon 
reached  Beechey's  Island,  on  which  the  three  graves 
of  Sir  John  Franklin's  seamen  were  to  be  found,  and 
other  evidences  which  showed  that  he  had  sojourned 
there  during  1845-46,  the  first  winter  of  their  ab- 
sence.    This  circumstance  confuted  the  opinions  of 
those  who  held  that  Sir  John  jj'ranklin  had  perished 


LIEUTENANT  OSBORn'S  EXPEDITIOW. 


427 


in  the  depths  of  Baffin's  Bay  on  his  ontward  voyage  ; 
and  proved  that  lie  had  advanced  safely  to  a  very  re- 
mote  point   in   Arctic   travel   and   discovery.      On 
Beechey's  Island  Captain  Osborn  saw  another  mourn- 
.^ul  trace  of  Sir  John  Franklin.    It  was  the  remnant 
of  a  garden,  witli  a  neatly  shaped  oval  outline,  the 
borders  carefully  covered  with  moss,  lichen,  and  an- 
emones, which  he  had  transplanted  from  a  more  ge- 
nial clime ;  and  these  even  yet  continued  to  show 
some  traces  of  vitality.     At  some  distance  from  this 
garden  the  foundations  of  a  store-house  were  discov* 
ered.     These  consisted  of   an  interior  and  exterior 
embankment,  into  which  oak  and  elm  scantling  had 
been  stuck,  as  supports  to  the  rooting.     Within  the 
enclosure   some   empty  coal-sacks  were  found,  and 
some  wood  shavings.     It  is  probable  that  this  store- 
house had  been  constructed  by  Sir  John  Franklin  to 
preserve  a  portion  of  the  abundant  provisions  with 
which  his  decks  had  been  encumbered  when  he  left 
Whale  Fish  Islands.     Captain  Osborn  also  discovered 
a  pair  of  Cashmere  gloves  which  had  been  laid  out 
to  dry  by  one  of  the  lost  crews  ;  on  each  of  which  a 
small  stone  had  been  placed  to  prevent  them  from 
being  swept  away  by  the  wind.    They  had  rested 
there,  having  been  probably  forgotten  by  their  owner, 
ever  since  1846 1 

Again  on  this  occasion  were  the  three  lonely  graves 
of  Sir  John  Franklin's  seamen  scanned  by  a  sailor's 
eye,  and  wept  over  by  those  gallant  adventurers. 
These  graves  are  simple  and  neat  in  their  appearance, 
such  as  British  sailors  erect  over  the  bodies  of  their 
departed  messmates,  in  every  quarter  of  the  globe, 
whether  in  the  frozen  zones  of  t!ie  north,  the  coral- 
girded  isle?  of  the  south,  the  verdant  and  spicy  vales 
of  the  east,  or  the  gold-gifted  climes  of  the  west. 
They  are  graves  whicli  remind  the  observer  of  some 
quiet  church-yard  in  England  or  in  our  own  land, 
where  the  departed  sleep  beneath  the  very  eaves  of 
the  humble  sanctuary,  surrounded  by  the  green  turf, 


.J  I 


I 


■ :  '  i  1 


I 


% 


428 


PK0GRES8  OF  ARCTIC  DI8C0VEKY. 


the  waving  grass,  and  the  blooming  rose,  with  wh'ch 
the  hand  of  affection,  or  the  undisturbed  frnitfulness 
of  nature  ha8  surrounded  them.  One  grave  of  the 
three  is  especially  suggestive  of  mournful  thoughts. 
It  is  that  ol  "  J.  Iiartnell,  B.  A.,  of  the  ship  Erebus ; 
died  January  4th,  1846.  Aged  25  years."  Here 
was  a  youth  who  had  been  reared  amid  the  classic 
shades  and  the  ennobling  associations  of  one  of  En- 
gland's great  universities — either  a  Cantab  or  an  Ox- 
onian— and  strange  to  say,  he  was  destined  to  lay  his 
form  to  take  its  long  last  sleep  in  the  lonely  and  cheer- 
less solitude  of  that  frozen  zone ;  and  that,  too,  in  the 
prime  of  his  years,  and  far  distant  from  all  that  was 
connected  with  the  brilliant  hopes  of  his  youthful 
days  I 

W  hen  about  to  leave  Beechey  Island,  Captain  Os- 
born  found  it  difficult  to  determine  what  course 
should  be  taken.  It  was  evident  that  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin had  selected  one  of  three  routes,  in  1846.  The 
first  was  south-west  by  Cape  Walker;  the  second, 
north-west  by  "Wellington  Channel ;  the  third,  west 
by  Melville  Island.  Yague  reports  were  current 
among  the  crews,  that  some  of  Captain  Penny's  peo- 
ple had  seen  sledge-marks  on  the  eastern  snores  of 
Erebus  and  Terror  Bay.  Captain  Osborn  determined 
in  person,  first  to  explore  Beechey  Island,  in  that  di- 
rection. He  landed  on  the  north  shore  of  Union 
Bay,  at  the  base  of  the  clifis  of  Cape  Spencer,  and 
soon  discovered  a  deep  sledge-mark  which  had  been 
cut  through  the  edge  of  cue  of  the  ancient  natural 
terraces  on  the  beach.  It  was  in  a  line  between  the 
cairn  of  meat  cans  which  Franklin  had  erected  on 
the  northern  spur  of  Beechey  Island,  to  a  valley  be- 
tween the  Capes  Ennes  and  Bowden.  From  its  ap- 
pearance, it  had  been  evidently  an  outward-bound 
sledge^  and  its  depth  denoted  that  it  was  heavily  la- 
den. It  was  an  additional  evidence  of  the  former 
presence  of  Franklin  on  that  island.  Upon  further 
examination,  various  other  sledge-marks  were  dis- 


LIEUTENANT  08B0RN  S  EXPEDITION. 


429 


covered  on  the  island.  At  one  spot  they  were  very 
numerous,  and  proved  that  there  a  rendezvous  had  been 
appointed  for  the  purpose  of  landing  some  of  the 
contents  of  the  ships.  From  this  point  some  of  the 
sledge  marks  ran  northward  into  a  gorge  through  the 
hills  ;  others  were  directed  toward  Caswell's  Tower,  a 
singular  mass  of  limestone  rock,  on  the  shore  of  Rad- 
stock  Bay,  which  served  as  a  useful  landmark  to  all 
vessels  approaching  either  from  the  east  or  the  west. 

Captain  Osborn  here  divided  his  party,  and  each 
followed  the  sledge-marks  in  an  opposite  direction, 
lie  discovered  the  site  of  a  circular  tent,  which  had 
evidently  been  constructed  and  used  by  a  shooting 
party  from  the  Erebus  or  Terror.  The  stones  which 
had  been  used  to  confine  the  canvas  to  its  place,  lay 
around.  Several  large  stones  well  blackened  with 
smoke,  indicated  where  the  fire-place  had  been ;  and 
porter-bottles,  meat-cans,  pieces  of  paper,  and  feath- 
ers, were  strewed  about.  Yet  no  written  line  or 
mark  was  detected,  to  throw  any  light  on  the  great 
mystery  which  occupied  their  minds.  After  seven 
hours  of  hard  walking.  Captain  Osborn  and  his  men 
returned  to  the  ships.  Such  were  all  the  traces 
which  the  utmost  industry  and  scrutiny  could  dis- 
cover of  Sir  John  Franklin,  in  this  last  known  spot 
of  his  habitation.  From  the  1st  to  the  4th  of  Sep- 
tember the  ships  lay  waiting  for  an  opening  in  the 
fixed  ice,  to  enable  them  to  resume  their  voyage.  At 
length  on  the  5th,  the  appearance  of  the  ice  and  the 
direction  of  the  wind  being  favorable,  Captain  Os- 
born immediately  gave  orders  to  proceed  across  Wel- 
lington Channel  toward  Barlow  Inlet. 

Before  this  course  had  been  pursued  for  any  dis- 
tance, the  channel  became  blocked  up  with  a  vast 
field  of  floating  ice.  A  northerly  gale  began  to  blow 
furiously  over  its  surface  ;  and  the  ships  of  the  squad- 
ron were  swept  along  with  the  ice,  in  whose  embrace 
they  were,  out  of  the  channel  toward  Leopold  Island. 
The  squadron  drifted  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  per  hour, 

27 


I 


I 


! 


.  '! 


f^     J 


430 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


toward  the  south-east.  Suddenly  an  opening  in  the 
pack  occurred,  and  the  steam-engine  was  instantly 
brought  into  requisition,  to  enable  the  seamen  to  ex- 
tricate themselves.  Soon  they  reached  again  the 
open  water ;  and  found  themselves  near  the  squadron 
of  Captain  Penny,  and  the  American  vessels,  com- 
manded by  De  Haven.  These  were  then  making 
sail  under  a  full  press  of  canvas  for  Cape  Hotham. 

When  in  this  position  on  the  11th  of  September, 
1850,  the  Arctic  winter  descended  on  the  adventur- 
ers. The  heavens  became  overclouded  with  black- 
ness, and  the  atmosphere  filled  with  hail,  snow,  and 
sleet.  A  heavy  sea  began  to  roll,  and  the  loose  frag- 
ments of  the  rapidly  congealing  ice  again  to  close 
around  them.  A  snug  harbor  was  happily  discov- 
ered for  the  winter,  between  Capes  Hotham  and  Mar- 
tvr,  on  the  south  side  of  Cornwallis  Island.  Here 
the  Pioneer  and  Intrepid  were  taken  and  secured. 
Several  parties  were  sent  out  to  carry  provisions  and 
establish  depots  on  the  intended  routes  of  the  differ- 
ent expeditions  which  would  explore  this  region  in 
the  spring  of  1851.  Lieutenant  McClintock  carried 
out  a  depot  toward  Melville  Island,  and  Lieutenant 
Aldrich,  taking  another  toward  Lowther  Island. 
Lieutenant  Mecham  was  also  sent  to  examine  Corn- 
wallis Island,  between  Assistance  Harbor  and  Cape 
Martyr,  for  traces  of  the  progress  of  Sir  John 
Franklin. 

Captain  Osborn  determined  to  embrace  this  op- 
portunity to  connect  the  search  from  the  spot  where 
Lieutenant  Mecham  left  the  coast,  to  the  point  at 
which  Lieutenant  McClintock  again  took  it  up,  thus 
completing  the  survey  of  this  whole  region,  through 
which  it  was  very  naturally  inferred  that  Sir  John 
Franklin  had  passed.  He  started  on  the  10th  of  Oc- 
tober, provided  with  five  day's  provisions.  The  party 
consisted  of  six  persons.  The  thermometer  was  six 
degrees  above  zero,  and  accordingly  they  did  not 
Butfer  from  the  severity  of  the  weather.    After  a 


LIEUTENANT  08B0RN  8   EXPEDITION. 


431 


march  of  three  hours  they  came  to  Cape  Martyr. 
Striking  inward  on  Cornwallis  Island,  Captain  Os- 
born  came  suddenly  in  view  of  a  structure  which  at 
once  excited  the  utmost  interest,  with  the  hope  that 
it  might  be  some  unknown  monument  of  the  lost 
navigators.  It  was  a  round,  conical-shaped  building, 
twenty  feet  in  circumference  at  the  base.  The  apex 
had  fallen  in,  but  the  height  of  what  remained  was 
five  feet  six  inches.  It  was  well  built,  and  those  who 
had  reared  it  seemed  to  have  well  understood  the 
strength  of  the  arched  roof,  to  resist  the  weight  of  the 
immense  amount  of  snow  which  falls  in  those  regions. 
Much  skill  was  exhibited  in  the  arrangement  of  the 
slates  of  limestone  with  which  the  building  was  con- 
structed. The  stones  of  the  apex  which  had  fallen 
within  the  walls  were  quickly  removed,  but  they  dis- 
covered nothing  which  could  enlighten  them  as  to 
the  origin  of  the  structure.  Yet  it  was  evident  from 
the  thick  moss  which  adhered  to  the  walls,  that  it 
was  not  of  recent  origin,  and  that  in  fact  it  must 
have  been  built  many  years  before  the  date  of  Sir 
John  Franklin's  voyage.  The  position  of  this  mys- 
terious monument  was  lonely  in  the  extreme.  It 
seemed  to  be  a  solitary  landmark  in  that  polar  world, 
of  the  former  and  transient  abode  of  some  unknown 
visitant ;  and  it  bore  clear  evidence  that  it  was  not 
the  product  of  the  labor  of  the  rude  Esquimaux,  who 
sometimes  in  their  summer  wanderings  reached  even 
these  remote  latitudes.  Nothing  more  of  interest 
was  discovered  on  Cornwallis  Island ;  and  Captain 
Osborn  returned  to  his  ships. 

On  the  ITth  of  October  the  commander  of  the 
ships  which  composed  this  squadron,  determined  that 
as  soon  as  they  could  commence  operations  in  the  en- 
suing spring.  Captain  Penny  was  to  continue  the  ex- 
ploration of  Wellington  Channel,  while  Captain  Os- 
born was  to  continue  his  researches  toward  Melville 
Island,  and  from  Cape  Walker  toward  the  south-west. 
With  the  settlement  of  this  arrangement,  all  the  la- 


I  It  ^ 


>.  i^ 


M~ 


432 


PIIOORB88  OP  AROnO  DISCOVERT. 


bors  of  the  squadron  for  the  year  1850  closed,  as  the 
utmost  rigors  of  a  polar  winter  were  now  upon  them. 
The  upper  decks  were  then  covered  in.  The  stoves 
and  warming  apparatus  were  set  to  work.  The  boats 
were  secured  on  the  ice.  All  the  lumber  was  re- 
moved from  the  upper  decks.  Tlio  masts  and  yards 
were  made  as  snug  as  possible ;  and  rows  of  posts 
were  placed  between  the  ships,  to  designate  the  way 
amid  the  darkness  and  storms  of  winter.  Holes  were 
cut  through  the  ice  in  order  to  obtain  a  ready  supply 
of  water  in  case  of  fire ;  and  arrangements  were  made 
to  ensure  the  cleanliness  of  the  sbips  aud  the  crews. 
On  the  8th  of  November  several  omcers  ascended  the 
heights  of  Griffith's  Island,  and  at  noon  caught  the 
last  glimpse  of  the  sun,  which  they  were  destined 
to  see,  for  some  months  ;  though  it  was  then  17  miles 
below  the  horizon,  and  the  rays  which  they  beheld 
were  those  only  of  refraction.  The  precise  position  of 
the  vessels  was  74J°  of  north  latitude. 

Though  the  sun  had  ceased  to  visit  those  Arctic 
heavens,  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  bold  naviga- 
tors were  in  darkness.  The  southern  horizon  was  il- 
lumed each  day  during  several  hours  at  noon,  by  a 
deep  and  rosy  red  light,  mixed  with  pink  and  blue. 
Toward  the  north  the  prevalent  appearance  of  the 
heavens  was  a  cold,  bluish-black.  During  the  rest  of 
the  twenty-four  hours,  a  gray  twilight  prevailed  around 
them,  except  when  the  moon  was  full.  At  that  pe- 
riod a  subdued  splendor  was  cast  over  the  frozen  face 
of  nature,  which  finds  no  parallel  in  the  natural  phe- 
nomena of  other  and  more  favored  climes.  The  love- 
liness of  an  Arctic  moonlight  none  can  know,  save 
those  who  themselves  have  seen  it. 

Thus  shut  out  from  all  the  world,  the  adventurers 
endeavored  to  wear  away  the  monotonous  months  oi 
winter.  The  festivals  of  Christmas  and  New  Yeai 
were  observed  with  unusual  glee  and  festivity,  with 
such  means  as  were  within  their  reach.  Sometimes 
the  weather  was  too  severe  to  permit  any  communi- 


was  re- 


low,  save 


LIEUTENANT  OSBORN  8   EXPEDITION. 


433 


cation  between  the  vessels.  During  a  portion  of  the 
time,  the  snow  was  drifted  to  such  immense  Iieiglits 
arouad  the  ships,  that  it  exchided  all  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding wastes.  The  vessels  only  three  hundred 
yards  distant  from  each  other,  were  often  invisible. 
Frequently  as  the  furious  storms  of  the  north  swept 
over  the  surrounding  ice  for  many  miles,  the  floor  vi- 
brated and  tremblea  with  the  violence  of  the  shock, 
and  communicated  this  singular  motion  to  the  vessels. 
The  aurora  borealis  alone  disappointed  those  who 
were  connected  with  this  expedition.  It  was  deficient 
in  brilliancy  of  color.  It  was  also  inferior  in  extent 
to  what  they  anticipated.  The  series  of  concentric 
semi-circles  of  light  were  subdued  by  dark  spaces 
between  them,  wnich  diminished  its  luster  ancl  gen- 
eral splendor.  The  snow  fell  almost  incessantly. 
When  heavy  gales  blew  the  vessels  were  nearly 
smothered ;  and  vast  drifts  15  feet  thick  above  the 
decks,  had  to  be  removed  by  the  continual  labors  of 
the  seamen. 

Amid  such  scenes  as  these,  the  long  winter  slowly 
passed  away.  Early  in  March  the  crews  began  to 
stir.  On  the  11th  of  that  month  the  thermometer 
was  41°  below  zero;  and  yet  this  temperature  was 
not  considered  as  too  severe  for  active  operations. 
On  the  4th  of  April,  1851,  preparations  were  made 
to  travel  on  sledges,  for  the  purpose  of  pursuing  the 
inland  searches.  Captain  Ommaney  was  directed  to 
cross  Barrow's  Strait  and  Cape  Walker.  Lieutenant 
Aldrich  was  sent  with  two  sledges  and  14  men  toward 
the  unknown  channel  of  Byam-Martin  Island.  Lieu- 
tenant McCormick  was  dispatched  to  Melville  Island, 
to  prosecute  his  researches  as  far  as  Winter  Harbor, 
with  two  sledges  and  13  men.  Other  officers  were 
sent  in  other  directions ;  making  iii  all  fifteen  sledges, 
manned  by  105  men,  who  were  thus  distributed  in 
various  directions,  in  order  to  obtain  information  and 
indications  of  the  career  and  fate  of  the  squadron  of 
Sir  John  Franklin. 


!     < 


1 


,      !^ 


I! 


\h- 


4 


484 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


It  waa  tlio  12th  of  April  when  these  expeditions 
Btiirtcd  forth  from  tlie  Hhips.  Our  space  forhids  im 
to  follow  all  tlieir  adventures,  which  wore  exciting  and 
perilous  in  the  extreme,  over  vast  tracts  of  snow  and 
ice,  of  the  most  monstrous  and  irregular  8liai)e8. 
The  whole  coast  of  Capo  Walker's  Land  was  sur- 
veyed. Many  of  the  seamen  became  snow-blind,  and 
many  had  frozen  feet.  They  beheld  vast  tracts  of 
snow-covered  land  hugged  by  the  icy  seas,  over  which 
a  silence  and  solitude  sullenly  brooded,  not  unlike 
that  of  a  primitive  chaos.  Most  of  the  sledge  parties 
accomplisned  journeys  of  500  miles,  in  various  direc- 
tions, during  the  fifty  days  the  expedition  lasted.  Af- 
ter the  lapse  of  this  period,  or  nearly  so,  all  the  par- 
ties returned  to  the  ships.  Some  had  searched  the 
whole  western  coast  of  Bathurst  Island.  Some  had 
been  to  Winter  Harbor,  Bushman  Cove,  and  Capo 
Dundas.  Others  had  explored  the  whole  eastern 
coast  of  Mellville  Island.  In  eighty  days  the  compa- 
ny under  Lieutenant  McClintock  had  traveled  800 
miles,  dragging  their  sledges  containing  tlieir  provis- 
ions after  them.  He  and  liis  men  had  pertbrmed  the 
greatest  labor  of  any  of  their  associates.  Yet  no- 
where, amid  all  these  various  researches,  in  every 
possible  and  available  direction,  had  the  least  trace 
been  detected  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  no  tradition  of 
his  presence,  no  monument  or  evidence  of  his  fate ! 

On  the  14th  of  August,  1851,  the  vessels  steered 
for  Jones'  Sound,  which  they  entered  on  the  evening 
of  the  15th.  This  sound  was  discovered  to  be  the 
narrowest  about  the  entrance.  The  scenery  of  the 
sliores  is  magnificent.  Ten  miles  inland  a  huge 
dome  of  pure  white  snow  ascended  to  the  height  of 
4,000  feet,  presenting  one  of  the  most  singular  spec- 
tacles which  could  well  be  imagined.  Keacning 
Cape  Hardwicke,  which  was  discovered  to  be  in  fact 
a  group  of  islands,  they  struck  eastward  toward  Cape 
Clarence,  which  seemed  to  be  the  utmost  limit  of  the 
land  in  that  direction.    Proceedina:  onward  in  their 


LIEUTENANT  OSBOHN  8  EXI'EDrnON. 


435 


southern  route,  the  squadron  soon  came  in  sight  of 
Cury  Islen,  and  then  of  the  tlat-toppcd  re^^ion  between 
Cai)0  York  and  Dudley  Di^ejes.     The  steamers  then 
rapidly  advanced  on  tlieir  homeward  way.     On  the 
2Sth  of  August  tliey  reached  Wolstenholme  Island. 
Hero  thev  were  stopped  by  the  floating  ice;  and  an- 
choring last  to  an  iceberg,  they  awaited  the  tirst  open- 
ing which  might  occur.     Here  began  traces  again  of 
the  nomade  Esquimaux ;  and  thus  they  seemed  to 
have  returned  to  communion  with  the  rest  of  man- 
kind.    By  the  1st  of  September  the  vessels  still  re- 
mained closely  packed  in  the  ice ;  and  nothing  ap- 
peared to  the  view  from  tlie  mast-head,  except  the 
boundless  horizon  of  the  frozen  ocean.     It  was  nev- 
ertheless necessary  for  Captain  Osborn  to  make  a 
bold  push  of  some  description,  to  be  released  from  his 
continement,  for  starvation  itself  might  soon  surprise 
liis  associates  in  their  imprisonment.     In  a  day  or 
two   a  fortunate  slackening  of  the  ice  encouraged 
them  to  attempt  on  entering.     So  difficult  and  slow 
was  their  progress,  that  they  did  not  advance  more 
than  the  snip's  length    luring  the  period,  and  after 
the  labors,  of  an  hour.     Hy  dint  of  constant  screwing 
and  heaving,   however,   some   advance   was   made. 
Gradually  the  sea  became  more  open ;  and  then  the 
powers  of  the  steam-engine  were  brought  into  play. 
A  moment's  further  delay  might  have  secured  their 
detention  for  the  whole  winter,  in  those  inhospitable 
and  frozen  climes.     After  a  day  of  excessive  exer- 
tions, the  ships  had  wormed  their  way  through  the 
floating  ice  to  the  open  sea  which  lay  to  the  south  of 
it,  and  thus  again  were  free. 

On  the  5th  of  September  the  squadron  commenced 
its  unobstructed  voyage  of  return  to  England.  In 
eight  days  they  reached  the  latitude  of  Cape  Farewell, 
and  at  length  safely  anchored  at  Grimby,  in  the 
River  Ilumber,  precisely  three  weeks  after  the  com- 
mencement of  their  homeward-bound  voyage.  The 
expedition  had  indeed  failed  either  to  rescue  Sir  John 


I  li 


\  ■ 


I 


I 


I 


436 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


FranHin,  or  even  to  solve  the  great  mystery  of  his 
fate ;  nevertheless  it  had  made  "  assurance  doubly 
sure"  that  he  had  not  been  lost  in  the  regions  which 
they  had  visited,  but  that  he  must  have  proceeded 
on  his  adventurous  way  to  a  very  remote  and  une- 
qualed  extreme  of  northern  latitude.  It  ascertained 
ttiat,  if  he  had  perished  at  all,  he  had  perished  in  the 
execution  of  one  of  the  boldest  and  most  desperate 
resolutions  ever  entertained  by  man,  to  explore  if 
possible,  the  utmost  limits  of  the  accessible  earth ; 
and  to  arrive  as  near  to  the  North  Pole  as  it  was  pos- 
sible for  human  heroism,  endurance,  and  determina- 
tion to  approach. 

But  other  interesting  and  valuable  researches  were 
made  by  this  expedition,  which  deserve  notice. 
These  established  the  fact  that  the  Esquimaux  tribes 
which  now  inhabit  portions  of  the  Arctic  Zone,  were 
once  very  numerous  along  the  whole  northern  shore 
of  Barrow's  Straits  and  Lancaster  Sound,  and  that  for- 
merly the  Esquimaux  were  among  the  most  widely 
diffused  races  on  the  eart^,  so  iar  as  superficial  ex- 
tent is  concerned.  From  Melville  Island  on  the  west, 
to  the  isolated  inhabitants  of  Northern  (xreenland, 
called  Arctic  Highlands,  many  strange  and  ancient 
remains  were  discovered  in  various  sheltered  nooks 
and  corners  on  the  shore,  such  as  rude  houses,  caches^ 
hiii5ting  posts,  and  graves,  which  clearly  proved  that 
inhabitants  once  dwelt  in  ihis  sad  and  solitary  clime, 
who  have  now  either  become  exterminated,  or  have 
emigrated  to  some  more  genial  region. 

The  origin  of  this  people  eoems  to  have  been  in  the 
north-eastern  extremity  of  Asia  ;  for  on  the  banks  of 
the  Lena  and  the  Indigirka,  and  along  the  whole  extent 
of  the  frozen  Tundra^  which  faces  the  Polar  Seas,  as 
well  as  in  New  Siberia,  the  same  species  of  circular 
stone  huts,  the  same  whalebone  rafters,  the  same  rude 
axes  made  of  stones,  and  the  same  primitive  imple- 
ments of  the  chase,  are  still  found  to  exist,  and  are 
used  alike  by  the  Esquimaux  of  Hudson  Straits  and 


LIEUTENANT  OSBORN'S  EXPEDITION. 


437 


Greenland,  the  Innuit  of  North  America,  and  the 
Tchuktches  of  Behrinff's  Straits.  It  is  probable,  there- 
fore, that  these  people  first  reached  the  American 
c  mtinent  from  the  east  of  Asia.  Tht>  Tchuktches  are 
the  only  tribe  of  Siberia  who  have  maintained  their 
independence;  and  have  defied,  assisted  by  the  hor- 
rid riffors  of  nature,  the  overwhelming  power  of  Kus- 
sia.  The  other  tribes  of  Siberia  narrate  how  one  of 
the  races  called  by  them  the  Omoki,  whose  homes 
were  as  numerous  on  the  banks  of  the  Lena  as 
the  stars  of  an  Arctic  night,  did  formally  remove 
to  unknown  regions;  supposed  by  them  to  be  in 
a  north-eastern  direction.  They  also  tell  of  an- 
other tribe,  termed  the  Onkillon,  who,  having  been 
attacked  by  the  Tchuktches,  took  shelter  in  a  dis- 
tant land  to  the  northward  from  Cape  Jakan.  This 
land  has  now  been  found  actually  to  exist  in  that 
direction. 

These  people  eventually  reached  the  shores  of  Da- 
vis' Straits  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  and  some  of 
them  even  advanced  as  far  as  Lancaster  Sound,  along 
the  Parry  Group.  Compelled  by  the  necebsities  of 
food,  and  attracted  by  the  products  of  fishing  and 
hunting,  they  eventually  reached  Behring's  Straits ; 
and  thus  this  unfortunate  race  extended  over  a  vast 
proportion  of  those  inhospitable  but  habitable  realms 
which  lie  nearest  to  the  Pole.  Among  the  proofs  of 
this  fact  furnished  by  the  researches  of  Captain  Os- 
born's  expedition,  may  be  mentioned  tlie  following : 
Ruins  of  the  description  already  mentioned,  were 
found  between  Bathurst  and  Cornwallis  Land,  on  the 
whole  southern  shore  of  Cornwallis  Isknd,  on  Capes 
Spencer  and  Riley,  on  Radstock  Bay,  Ommaney 
liarbor.  Cape  Warrender,  and  on  the  shores  of  Jones' 
Sound.  Formerly,  also,  many  Esquimaux  lived  even 
at  the  head  of  Baffin's  Bay.  On  the  coast  northward 
of  Cape  York,  many  deserted  villages  and .  dead 
bodies  have  been  found ;  clearly  indicating  the  ex- 
istence of  a  people  who  have  now  either  become  ex* 


!l^i 


.,.|k;  ' 


/i 


438 


PROGRESS   OF  ASCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


■I  R! 


1  i; 


tinct,  or  have  congregated  in  a  less  rigorous  locality. 
All  these  tribes  and  races,  whatever  they  may  have 
been,  undoubtedly  belonged  to  the  general  Esquimaux 
family,  who  first  originated  in  the  north-eastern  ex- 
tremity of  Asia. 

* 

Arctic  Searching  Expedition  ;  a  JI  ournal  of  a  Boat- 
voyage  THROUGH   KuPERt's  LaND   AND   THE  ArCTIO 

Sea,  in  Search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  by  Sir  John 
Richardson,  in  1851. 

The  commander  of  this  expedition  was  directed  by 
the  British  admiralty  to  leave  England  in  a  mail- 
steamer  for  Halifax  and  New  York ;  and  from  the 
latter  place  to  proceed  to  Montreal,  in  order  to  confer 
with  Sir  George  Simpson,  governor  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  ''^pany's  settlements.  He  was  ordered  thence 
to  travel  by  Lake  Huron  to  Saut  Ste.  Marie  and  Lake 
Superior,  and  there  embark  with  a  small  crew,  and 
sail  along  the  chain  of  lakes  until  he  overtook  Mr. 
Bell,  whom  it  was  supposed  he  would  find  at  Isle  a 
la  Crosse. 

With  four  boats  well  adapted  to  this  service.  Sir 
John  Richardson  was  ordered  to  proceed  and  exam- 
ine the  extensive  North  American  coast  between  the 
Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Rivers.  Passing  the 
winter  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  or  Confidence,  near  Great 
Bear  Lake,  he  was  directed  in  the  following  spring  to 
resume  his  journey,  and  explore  the  passages  between 
"Wollaston,  Banks  ,  and  Victoria  Lands,  so  as  to  cross 
the  routes  of  Sir  J.  C.  Ross'  detached  parties ;  and 
thence  to  return  again  to  Great  Bear  Lake.  It  was 
hoped  that  this  comparatively  novel  and  untried  di- 
rection of  search,  might  probably  reveal  some  satis- 
factory indications  or  memorials  of  the  fate  and  situ- 
ation of  Sir  John  Franklin. 


rii 


Die  length  of  this  interior  navigation  to  the  Arctic 
Sea  from  Montreal,  is  about  4,400  miles.  Sixteen 
hundred  of  these  are  performed  on  the  Mackenzie 


V   i 


,"  i| 


I 


!    ] 


SIB  JOHN  RIOHAEDSOn's  EXPEDITION. 


439 


River  and  its  tributaries.  The  uoats  employed  in  tliis 
expedition  measured  30  feet  in  length,  six  in  breadth, 
three  in  depth  ;  and  were  providea  with  masts,  sails, 
oars,  anchors,  and  tools;  and  each  weighed  half  a  ton. 
A  crew  of  five  men  was  deemed  sufficient  for  each. 
Among  the  seamen  selected  to  man  the  boats,  were 
sappers,  miners,  carpenters,  blacksmiths,  armorers,  and 
engineers.  These  four  boats  properly  provisioned,  were 
embarked,  together  with  the  men  of  the  expedition, 
on  board  the  "  Prince  of  Wales  "  and  "  W  estmin- 
ster,"  bound  to  York  Factory,  one  of  the  posts  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  company  ;  and  there  both  ships  eventu- 
ally arrived,  after  a  stormy  passage,  with  the  boats 
and  their  respective  crews.  In  May,  1851,  Sir  John 
Hichardson  and  his  chief  associate,  Mr.  Rae,  left  the 
house  of  Mr.  Ballenden,  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  near 
Lake  Superior,  and  entered  on  the  active  duties  of 
their  expedition. 

We  will  omit  some  details  of  their  travels,  as  long 
as  these  continue  throagh  those  intermediate  regions 
which  are  not  directly  connected  with  the  Arctic 
Zone ;  and  which  throw  but  little  light  upon  the  pe- 
culiarities of  that  remote  portion  of  the  earth.  The 
expedition  pursued  its  designated  route,  until  at 
length  they  entered  the  estuary  of  the  Mackenzie 
River.  At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  they  embarked, 
and  crossing  a  shallow  bar  at  the  end  of  a  sand-bank, 
they  steered  between  Richards'  Island  and  the  main 
land.  They  soon  perceived  about  200  Esquimaux 
coming  toward  them  in  their  canoes,  and  three  umiaks 
filled  with  women  and  children.  It  was  necessary 
to  beat  oft*  these  intruders,  who  by  hanging  on  to  the 
sides  of  the  boats  impeded  their  progress  ;  nor  were 
the  voyagers  certain  that  no  hostile  attack  was  in- 
tended by  these  half-starved  and  importunate  semi- 
savages. 

As  soon  as  these  two  parties  in  the  several  boats 
came  in  contact_,  a  buisy  scene  of  barter  began  to  be 
enacted.    The  Esquimaux  liad  arrows,  bows,  kniv  '^ 


■  I 


i      .! 


f 


mi 


1m 

4i 


:f 


^i'M 


440 


PieOGBESS  OF  AEOTIO  DISCOVERT. 


of  copper,  or  of  bone,  and  articles  of  that  description 
to  sell ;  and  for  these  they  received  in  return  knives, 
files,  hatchets,  awls,  and  needles.  The  articles  ob- 
tained by  the  explorers  were  indeed  of  little  service 
to  them ;  but  they  wished  to  conciliate  the  Esqui- 
maux ;  and  inasmuch  as  the  latter  considered  a  gift 
without  an  equivalent  accepted  in  return  as  an  insult, 
it  was  necessary  to  barter  with  them  in  order  to  fur- 
nish them  the  articles  which  they  desired.  The  En- 
glish boats  were  much  incommoded  by  the  crowds  of 
Esquimaux  who  were  disposed  to  hold  on  to  their 
sides,  and  it  became  necessarv  to  use  violence  some- 
times to  compel  them  to  release  their  grasp.  At 
length  the  boat  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Clark  was 
attacked  by  the  Esquimaux  around  it.  An  attempt 
was  made  to  plunder  it.  A  struggle  ensued  between 
the  crew  of  six  men  and  the  assailants,  and  a  musket 
was  fired  by  Lieutenant  Clark,  as  a  signal  to  his  as- 
sociates for  assistance.  The  other  boats  then  imme- 
diately wore  around,  and  came  to  the  protection  of 
the  assailed.  Muskets  were  presented,  and  an  attack 
threatened  by  the  English  sailors ;  the  effect  of  which 
demonstration  was,  to  induce  the  Esquimaux  at  once 
to  desist  from  all  further  aggressive  operations,  and 
resume  friendly  relations. 

Thus,  as  the  boats  pursued  their  way,  they  were  ac- 
companied by  the  Esquimaux  canoes.  At  length  as 
they  began  to  lose  sight  of  the  land  entirely,  the  Es- 
quimaux gradually  fell  behind  them,  and  returned  to 
their  encampment  on  the  shore  of  the  estuary.  Dur- 
ing this  intercourse  between  the  voyagers  and  the  na- 
tives, the  inquiries  of  the  former  were  directed  to  ob- 
taining information  in  reference  to  the  discovery 
ships.  But  the  natives  uniformly  persisted  in  de- 
claring, that  they  knew  nothing  about  any  white  peo- 
ple, or  any  ships  on  their  coast.  They  all  denied  hav- 
ing been  present  in  any  interviews  which  took  place 
between  their  countrymen  and  the  navigators  of  those 
seas  in  previous  years.     One  person  alone,  in  answer 


SIR  JOHN  RICHARDSON  B  EXPEDITION. 


441 


to  the  inquiries  of  Captain  Richardson,  declared  that 
a  party  of  white  men  were  living  on  a  neighboring 
island,  called  Richards'  Island.  Bat  as  the  expedi- 
tion had  visited  and  examined  that  locality  but  a  day 
two  previously,  his  assertion  was  known  to  be  false. 
Captain  Richardson  requested  his  interpreter  to  in- 
form the  Esquimaux  that  he  had  recently  been  there, 
and  knew  that  he  was  lying ;  which  declaration  only 
called  forth  a  hearty  laugh  from  the  Esquimaux, 
whose  only  desire  was,  by  a  fabricated  story,  to  in- 
duce the  expedition  to  sojourn  longer  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, and  waste  its  time  in  fruitless  researches. 

These  Esquimaux  are  a  singular  race,  and  one  of 
their  distinctive  peculiarities  is,  that  they  are  strictly 
a  littoral  people.    They  live  only  on  the  shore,  and 
they  inhabit  an  area  of  nearly  6,000  miles  of  sea- 
board.    Their  habitations  extend  from  the  Straits  of 
Belle-isle  to  the  Peninsula  of  Alaska.  Tnroughout  this 
vast  extent  of  region  there  is  no  material  variation  in 
their  dialect,  except  what  may  be  justly  termed  pro- 
vincialisms.    An  interpreter  born  on  the  east  main  or 
western  shore  of  James'  Bay,  experienced  no  diffi- 
culty in  understanding  the  language  of  the  Esqui- 
maux of  the  estuary  of  the  Mackenzie  ;  although  the 
distance  between  the  two  localities  was  at  least  2,500 
miles.    Traces  of  the  encampments  of  this  same  race 
have  been  discovered  as  far  north  on  the  American 
continent  as  the  foot  of  the  boldest  adventurer  has 
trodden.    Their  capacity  to  endure  the  privations  of 
these  frozen  and  rugged  regions,  results  evidently 
from  their  disposition  to  subsist  on  blubber,  and  their 
long  practiced  ability  to  inhabit  houses  and  huts  con- 
structed of  ice  and  snow.     They  employ  drift-timber 
whenever  it  is  accessible ;  but  they  can  do  without  it, 
and  can  find  a  good  substitute  in  the  fabrication  of 
their  weapons,  sledges,  and  boat-frames,  in  the  teeth 
and  bones  of  whales,  morses,  and  other  sea-monsters. 
They  associate  together  in  large  numbers,  to  engage 
in  the  pursuit  of  the  whale ;  and  this  fact  indicates 


> 


■' 


1 

; 

i           ■ 

-f  . 


i* 


I' 


•J't  I 


442 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOTERT. 


the  possession  of  no  small  degree  of  natural  hardi- 
hood and  intelligence.  Those  of  the  Esquimaux  who 
have  been  received  into  the  service  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  company,  at  the  distant  fur-posts,  have  very  soon 
acquired  the  habits  of  their  white  associates,  and 
proved  eventually  to  be  more  industrious,  intelligent, 
and  trustworthy  than  domesticated  Indians.  Among 
themselves  a  great  deal  of  honesty  prevails  ;  and  the 
private  hunting-grounds  of  the  different  families  are 
secure  from  all  depredations  from  other  members  of 
tlie  nation.  But  their  dexterity  and  pertinacity  in 
thieving  the  property  of  strangers  are  very  remarka- 
ble. They  are  brave  in  their  conflicts,  and  are  devoid 
of  the  pusillanimity  of  the  Indians  of  the  southern 
zones.  All  their  peculiarities,  both  personal  and  na- 
tional, serve  to  establish  the  position  advanced  in  the 
preceding  article  of  this  work,  that  the  various  Es- 
quimaux tribes  possess  one  and  the  same  origin,  and 
that  they  emanated  originally  from  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  the  continent  of  Asia. 

As  soon  as  the  EsiJ^uimaux  canoes  had  disappeared 
from  view,  the  boats  were  steered  toward  the  opposite 
shore,  at  a  spot  where  there  were  several  winter  hab- 
itations of  the  natives.  This  place  is  situated  about 
eight  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Point  Warren.  The 
buildings  are  placed  on  a  spot  where  the  water  is 
suliiciently  deep  for  a  boat  to  come  close  to  the  beach  ; 
so  that  the  natives  may  be  able  to  tow  a  whale  or 
seal  to  the  place  where  they  intend  to  cut  it  up.  The 
houses  themselves  were  constructed  of  drift-timber, 
strongly  built  together,  and  covered  with  a  layer  of 
earth  from  one  to  two  feet  in  thickness.  Light  and 
air  are  admitted  through  a  small  low  door  at  one  ex- 
tremity ;  and  even  this  aperture  in  winter  is  closed 
by  a  slab  of  ice.  In  that  case  their  greasy  lamps  sup- 
ply them  to  some  extent  with  heat,  as  well  as  with 
light.  These  huts  are  large  enough  to  permit  ten  or 
twelve  people  to  seat  themselves  around  the  lire, 
built  in  the  center  on  the  ground.    In  winter  the  im- 


SIR  JOHN  RICHARD80N  B  EXPEDITION. 


443 


perfect  admission  of  fresh  air,  and  the  effluvia  ari- 
sing from  their  greasy  and  filthy  bodies,  render  their 
abodes  not  only  disagreeable  in  the  extreme,  but  also 
exceedingly  unwholesome.  Yet  these  peculiarities 
characterize  the  whole  Esquimaux  tribes  throughout 
the  whole  extent  and  variety  of  their  difiusion. 

Having  resumed  their  route  on  the  4th  of  August, 
Captain  Richardson  pulled  for  three  hours  across 
Copland  Hutchinson  Inlet,  and  landed  at  length  on  its 
eastern  shore.     This  inlet  is  about  10  miles  in  width, 
and  its  mouth  is  obstrncted  by  sand  banks.     Having 
computed  their  positron,  they  found  it  to  be  69°  44' 
north  latitude  ;  and  ohe  variation  of  the  needle  was 
68°  east.     This  whole  coast  is  low,  though  in  the  in- 
land, some  sandy  clifls  were  discovered.    The  soil 
was  soft,   boggy,  and  treacherous,  and  the  whole 
country  was  covered  over  with  ponds  and  small  lakes. 
On  the   8th  of  August   the   expedition  reached 
Cape  Brown.    Here  they  came  in  contact  again  with 
the  Esquimaux.     After  the  usual  exchange  of  articles 
had  been  completed,  inquiries  were  made  in  refer- 
ence to  the  missing  ships.     The  Esquimaux  declared 
that  no  large  ships  had  ever  visited  that  coast ;  and 
that  these  were  the  only  white  men  whom  they  had 
ever  seen.     It  seems  that  Captain   Richardson  had 
visited  this  coast  twenty- three  years  before  on  a  com- 
mercial expedition ;  and  had  then  met  some  of  these 
same   people.      But  they  denied  having   the   least 
knowledge  or  recollection  of  him  or  of  his  associates. 
Captain   Richardson   crossed    Russel   Inlet,   and 
passed  Cape  Brown.    They  then  reached  Cape  Dal- 
housie  and  pitched  their  tent  upon  the  beach.     This 
island  and  the  cape  are  flat ;  but  toward  the  sea  there 
are  steep  clitis  40  and  50  feet  in  height.   There  are  also 
deep  ravines  in  the  interior,  produced  by  the  melting 
of  the  snows  in  the   beginning  of  summer.     From 
this  point  the  boats  steered  across  Liverpool  Bay, 
and  approached  ^'  icholson  Island.     They  then  landed 
and  encamped  otf  Cape  Maitland.    The  surface  of 


! 


\ 


i 


< 


444 


PROQEE88  OF  AKCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


thiB  cape  is  level,  but  its  shores  are  girt  with  rugged 
cliffs  80  feet  in  height.  A  frozen  surface  is  con- 
stantly exposed  to  view,  and  permanent  ground-ice  is 
everywhere  to  be  found,  twenty  inches  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  soil.  Vegetation  is  very  meager  and 
scanty. 

From  this  point  the  expedition  proceeded  to  Har- 
rowby  Bay,  and  Baillie's  Islands.  They  landed  at 
the  latter  place  at  evening,  and  pitched  their  tent  to 
pass  the  night  in  repose.  They  soon  discovered  a 
large  fleet  of  Esquimaux  canoes  approaching  in  the 
form  of  a  crescent,  in  the  dim  twilight.  The  object 
of  the  natives  was  to  trade  ;  but  as  Captain  Richard- 
son wished  his  men  to  have  an  opportunity  to  repose 
during  the  night,  he  ordered  a  ball  to  be  tired  across 
the  path  of  the  cai.oes.  This  immediately  stopped 
their  further  progress ;  and  an  interpreter  then  in- 
formed the  Esquimaux  that  there  would  be  no  barter- 
ing that  night,  but  that  if  they  would  return  in  the 
morning  their  wishes  should  be  gratified.  After  a 
short  consultation  the  Esquimaux  seemed  to  be  satis- 
tied  with  this  arrangement  and  retired.  At  two 
o'clock  the  next  morning  the  expedition  resumed 
their  journey,  and  soon  met  the  approaching  Esqui- 
maux. From  thom  they  ascertained  that  their  sum- 
mer season  here  continues  only  during  two  months, 
of  which  this  (August)  was  one  ;  that  during  this  pe- 
riod they  have  no  ice  whatever ;  and  that  they  car- 
ried on  their  black-whale  tishing.  The  extent  of  their 
operations  usually  consists  in  the  capture  of  two 
whales  during  the  whole  summer — sometimes,  though 
rarely,  they  obtain  three.  Sometimes  they  are  alto- 
gether unsuccessful  and  secure  none.  In  that  case  the 
succeeding  winter  generally  provc'*  to  be  one  of  great 
want  and  hardship.  Their  i  o'norance  of  the  rest  of  th  '^ 
world  may  be  inferred  fro:n  the  following  incidjut : 
One  of  them  asserted  to  Captain  Richardson  that 
Cape  Bathurst  was  an  island.  When  the  latter  denied 
this  assertion,  the  Esquimaux  responded  with  gveat 


BIB  JOHN  RICHARDSON  8  EXPEDITION. 


445 


sincerity,  "Are  not  all  lands  islands?"  At  this 
point  Captain  Kicliardson  buried  some  pemmican 
and  erected  a  sipial-post.  A  hole  was  dug  on 
the  top  of  the  cliff,  in  which  a  case  of  pemmican 
was  deposited,  with  a  memorandum  explaining  the 
purposes  of  the  expedition.  The  utmost  care  was 
used  in  replacing  the  turf  so  as  to  avoid  detection  ; 
some  drift  timber  was  then  placed  on  the  spot  and 
burned ;  and  a  pole  painted  red  and  white  was  planted 
at  a  distance  of  10  feet.  To  induce  the  Esquimaux 
not  to  disturb  the  post,  some  articles  of  value  were 
suspended  upon  it.  Soon  several  Esquimaux  were 
seen  running  toward  the  pole  ;  they  quickly  stripped 
it  of  its  hangings;  but  did  not  disturb  the  signal 
itself.  f. 

From  this  point  the  expedition  proceeded  to  the 
south-east  of  Cape  Bathurst,  along  the  shore,  which 
sometimes  rose  to  the  height  of  250  feet.  At  Point 
Trail,  in  north  latitude  70°  19',  the  bituminous  shale 
had  been  ignited  and  burned ;  and  the  bank  had 
crumbled  down  from  the  destruction  of  the  beds,  pre- 
senting a  most  singular  appearance. 

August  the  11  Ui  the  expedition  continued  their 
route  along  the  coast,  and  at  length  reached  Point 
Stivens,  and  on  the  13th  landed  on  the  shores  of  Sell- 
wood  Bay.  Their  next  sojourn  was  on  one  of  the 
western  points  which  terminate  Cape  Parry.  This 
portion  of  the  cape  presents  a  singular  aspect  when 
approaching  it  from  the  sea.  It  is  an  eminence  500 
feet  in  height,  which  far  surmounts  all  the  surround- 
ing region.  In  the  neighborhood  of  this  spot,  at 
Cocked-Hat  Point,  a  letter  was  deposited  with  a  case 
of  pemmican ;  over  which  were  placed  fragments  of 
limestones,  covered  with  red  paint.  It  was  here  that 
the  members  of  this  expedition  lirst  saw  the  drift- 
ice.  They  sailed  on  past  Clapperton  Island,  Point 
Pearce,  and  Point  Keats.  The  tirst  indications  of  the 
approach  of  winter  now  began  to  force  themselves 
upon  their  notice ;  for  the  sea  became  covered  with 
*^  S  28 


i         1 


,(►- 


1   ■  f 


i 


440 


PROOKESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


thin  ice,  which  sometimes  very  essentially  impeded 
their  progress.  At  Cape  Parry  they  still  saw  traces 
of  the  Esquimaux  ;  tliey  had  the  ifirst  severe  frost 
during  the  night;  and  the  ice  already  exceeded  an 
inch  in  thickness. 

On  the  12th  of  September  the  expedition  nearly 
reached  Cape  Kendall.  It  had  pro«;ressed  thus  far 
along  the  north-western  coast  of  the  North  American 
contment,  without  meeting  any  traces  of  Sir  John 
Franklin.  At  this  point  the  sea  became  so  obstructed 
with  ice  that  it  was  impossible  to  pursue  the  jour- 
ney along  the  sea-shore,  although  they  were  still  at 
some  considerable  distance  from  the  Coppermine 
River,  the  appointed  boundary  of  their  travels.  Cap- 
tain Richardson,  determined  to  continue  the  journey 
by  land.  The  company  provided  themselves  with 
thirteen  day's  provisions  of  pemmican,  with  cookii.^: 
utensils,  bedding,  snow-shoes,  astronomical  instru- 
ments, fowling-pieces,  ammunition,  and  portable  boat, 
nets,  and  lines.  Each  man  was  compelled  to  carry  a 
load  of  sixty-five  pounds.  The  boats  of  the  expedi- 
tion were  left  behind  on  the  shore,  and  the  tent  with 
a  few  cooking  articles  and  hatchets,  were  abandoned 
to  the  Esquimaux. 

On  the  3d  of  September  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  journey  commenced.  They  pursued  a  direct 
course  toward  the  bottom  of  Back's  inlet.  The  snow 
was  deep,  and  advance  was  laborious  and  difficult. 
So  heavy  was  the  way  that  most  of  the  men  were  will- 
ing to  leave  behind  them  their  carbines.  At  night 
they  halted  under  a  basalt  cliff  200  feet  in  height. 
The  sea  was  here  full  of  ice.  They  still  occasionally 
met  Esquimaux,  whose  services  they  employed  in  fer- 
rying them  over  the  numerous  inlets  which  interrupt- 
ed their  way  along  the  coast.  Among  the  Esquimaux 
whom  Captain  Richardson  met,  were  two  who  are 
mentioned  by  Mr.  Simpson.  One  of  these  was  rec- 
ognized by  a  large  wen  which  marked  his  forehead ; 
and  the  ottker  by  his  being  crippled,  and  using  crutches. 


''  j 


1  early 
VIA  far 
crican 
'  John 
Tucted 
6  jour- 
Btill  at 
ermine 
.    Cap- 
ourney 
3S  with 
cookiug: 
instni- 
^le  boat, 
carry  a 
cxpedi- 
11 1  with 
iudoned 


Sm  JOHN  BIOHARDSON  8  EXPEDmOIT. 


44  r 


They  had  been  very  kindly  treated  by  Messrs.  Dease 
and  Simpson ;  and  they  were  therefore  disposed  to 
be  friendly,  together  with  their  whole  tribe,  toward 
the  white  people.     The  travelers  bought  skin-boots 
from   them,  which   proved   of   very   great  service. 
Captain  Richardson  permitted  none  of  his  men  to 
enter  their  huts,  or  to  offer  any  indignity  to  these 
harmless  and  forlorn  beings.     He  himself  visited  one 
of  their  cabins,  both  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a 
glimpse  of  their  household  appearance,  and  to  pre- 
sent some  needles  and  other  articles  to  their  women. 
He  found  in  one  hut  six  or  seven  females  sewing, 
seated  in  a  circle.     They  were  nearly  naked,  and  very 
dirty.     On  his  entrance  they  seemed  both  ashamed 
and   afraid.     Captain  Richardson   shrewdly  conjec- 
tured that,  as  these  people  had  heard  of  the  approach 
of  the  strangers,  they  had  purposely  rendered  them- 
selves as  repulsive  as  possible,  by  rubbing  mud  and 
ashes  on  their  faces  and  persons.     They  received  hia 
presents  in  a  friendly  manner ;  but  seemed  quite  re- 
lieved when  the  hardy  old  mariner  took  his  leave. 
This  is  a  singular  circumstance,  as  illustrating  how,  in 
every  clime  and  country  under  heaven,  men's  pas- 
sions, their  fears,  and  their  artilices  are  uniformly 
and  invariably  the  same  I 

At  length  the  travelers  arrived  on  the  shores  of 
Richardson's  River.  This  river  was  discovered  in 
1822,  by  some  hunters  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  party, 
and  its  outlet  w^as  then  erroneously  supposed  to  be 
only  live  miles  west  of  the  Coppermine.  In  1839 
Mr.  Simpson  explored  this  river,  and  ascertained  that 
it  falls  into  Back's  Inlet  in  north  latitude  67°  53'  57". 
Having  crossed  this  river  in  a  small  boat  of  Lieuten- 
ant Halkett,  which  could  carry  but  two  persons  at 
once,  they  resumed  their  march.  In  a  short  time 
they  gained  the  summit  of  the  ridge  which  divided 
the  valley  of  the  Richardson  from  that  of  the  Copper- 
mine River.  This  ridge  was  now  covered  with  snow. 
From  its  summit  they  saw  in  the  distance  the  Cop- 


.   rA 


448 


PROGRESS  OF  AROTIO  DISCOVERT. 


pcrmine ;  and  at  threo  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  tliey 
reached  its  bankfi,  several  miles  above  Jiloody  Fall. 

On  the  10th  of  September  the  company  struck  the 
Kendal  lliver,  at  some  distaiice  from  its  junction 
witli  the  Coppermine.  They  walked  nearly  three 
miles  along  its  banks,  seeking  for  a  crossing  place. 
No  such  spot  being  found,  tliey  were  compelled  to 
construct  a  raft,  and  thus  transport  themselves  over. 
This  raft  could  bear  but  three  persons  at  a  time ;  nev- 
ertheless all  of  them  passed  over  in  safety.  From 
this  point  they  traveled  directly  across  the  country  to- 
ward Dease  Kivor.  Some  snow  tell  both  during  the  day, 
and  also  during  the  succeeding  night.  On  the  12th 
they  reached  a  tributary  stream  of  the  Kendal  River, 
and  forded  it ;  the  ice-cold  water  rising  up  to  their 
waists.  On  the  14th  the  march  took  a  south-western 
direction.  They  found  the  soil  cracked,  hummocky, 
and  swampv ;  and  it  became  exceedingly  wearisome 
and  difficult  for  pedestrians.  On  the  15th  they 
crossed  a  branch  of  the  lliver  Dease  by  fording  it ; 
and  Jit  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  whole  party 
reached  Fort  Coniidence,  the  present  appointed  ter- 
mination of  their  journey,  and  their  quarters  for  the 
ensuing  winter. 

It  is  proper  that  we  should  here  interrupt  the  nar- 
rative of  Captain  Richardson's  expedition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  by  detailing  some  of  the  infor- 
mation which  he  obtained  in  reference  to  the  Esqui- 
maux race — one  of  the  most  interesting  and  impor- 
tant items  of  Arctic  observation  and  scrutiny.  We 
have  already  given  a  few  details  on  this  subject  on  a 
previous  page  ;  and  the  additional  light  thrown  upon 
it  by  the  researches  of  Captain  Richardson,  are  both 
valuable  and  entertaining.  The  views  presented  by 
Captain  R.  of  this  widely  diffused  people,  are,  as  will 
be  seen,  those  which  describe  them  as  they  exist  on 
the  northern  coast  of  the  American  continent — being 
quite  a  different  locality  from  that  depicted  by  Cap- 
tain Osborn. 


SIR  JOHN  BI0HARD8OM  8  EXPEDITION. 


449 


Tlio  term  Esquimaux  is  probably  derived  from  the 
words,  Ceux  qui  Diiaux ;  or  it  may  have  orii^inatcd 
from  the  shouts  of  Teynio  which  the  natives  uttered, 
when  they  surrounded  the  first  exploring  ships  in  their 
canoes.  The  sailors  of  the  Hudson  Bay  comj)any's 
vessels  still  call  them  Seymds.  The  word  Esquimaux 
does  not  belong  to  the  languago  of  the  nation.  These 
invariably  call  themselves  Inu-it^  the  peoj)le^  from 
I-nuky  a  man. 

One  peculiaritv  of  this  race  is  that  they  alone,  of 
all  the  aboriginal  races,  are  known  to  inhabit  portions 
of  both  the  old  and  the  new  continents.    Their  lan- 
guage and  their  customs,  in  consequence  of  the  pe- 
culiarity of  their  position,  have  also  remained  strange- 
ly unaltered  by  any  contact  or  collision  with  the  rest 
of  the  world.    They  contine  themselves  to  the  shores ; 
and  neither  wander  inland,  nor  cross  extensive  seas. 
They  t  .aciid  along  the  whole  northern  boundary  of 
America,  from  Behring's  Straits  to  the  Straits  of  Bell- 
isle,  and  along  both  shores  of  Greenland  and  Lab- 
rador.    Their   appearance  is  singular.     Their  faces 
are  egg-shaped,  v/ith  considerable  prominence  in  the 
cheek  boues.    Their  foreheads  are  narrow  and  taper 
upwards.     Their  chins   are   conical  but   not  acute. 
Generally  their  noses  are  broad  and  depressed.    Their 
profiles,  in  consequence  of  the  receding  both  of  the 
forehead  and  the  chin,  present  a  more  curved  outline 
than  is  found  in  any  other  variety  of  the  Caucasian 
race.    Their  complexions  are  not  red,  but  of  an  inter- 
iLcdiate  uue  between  red  and  white.     They  have  lit- 
th)  or  no  beards ;  but  the  hair  of  the  head  is  long, 
straight,  thick,  and  coarse.     The  men  are  of  medium 
size,  broad-shouldered,  and  muscular.     In  both  sexes 
tlie  hands  and  feet  are  small  and  well  formed.     The 
teeth,  especially  of  the  young  girls,  are  generally  of 
superior  regularity  and  beauty. 

The  chiel  subsistence  of  this  extensive  race  depends 
upon  hunting  and  hshing.  In  the  spring  the  opening 
rivers  give  them  the  opportunity  to  spear  and  capture 


: 


|t 


'^ 


\  1 


C^Ml 


450 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


I 


the  fish  which  at  that  period  ascend  the  streams  to 
r'jawn.  Then  also  they  hunt  the  reindeer,  which 
bring  loi  th  their  young  on  the  coasts  and  islands  he- 
fore  the  snow  is  entirely  melt(jd  on  the  ground. 
They  ii''so  take  a  large  quantity  of  swans,  geese,  and 
ducks.  The  montlis  of  July  and  August  are  em- 
ployed in  the  capture  of  whales  ;  and  when  they  are 
S'2cce3sful  in  this,  their  own  sustenance  for  the  ensu- 
ing year  is  secured.  During  the  two  summer  months 
they  live  in  tents  made  of  skins,  and  then  they  provide 
their  stores  of  food  for  winter  use.  At  mid-winter  they 
are  usually  in  total  darkness.  At  that  period  they 
live  in  houses  framed  of  drift  timber,  which  are 
thickly  covered  with  earth.  They  have  no  windows 
in  their  dwellings,  and  they  enter  by  a  low  trap  door 
inserted  either  on  the  side,  or  in  the  roofs.  The  floor 
is  covered  »vith  rude  timber,  and  they  have  no  fire- 
place. A  large  fiat  stone  is  placed  in  the  center  which 
Bupportb  a  lamp,  Dv  the  flame  of  which  they  often  cook. 
The  Esquimaux  hunter  can  trap  the  seal,  notwith- 
standing the  great  acuteness  and  vigilance  of  that  an- 
imal ;  and  his  plunder  also  serves  to  assist  in  suptain- 
ing  Esquimaux  life  in  the  spring  months. 

The  summer  architecture  of  this  race  is  peculiar. 
By  that  period  of  tlie  year,  the  snow  has  acquired  a 
sufficient  degree  of  coherence  to  form  a  light  build- 
ing material ;  and  of  this  material  the  Esquimaux 
erect  comfortable  huts  which  are  dome-shaped,  and 
are  often  used  in  preference  to  their  tents.  They  first 
trace  a  circle  on  the  smooth  surface  of  the  snow. 
The  sides  are  built  of  slabs  of  ice  instead  of  brick  or 
granite.  The  summit  is  composed  of  similar  slabs ; 
and  the  floor  is  laid  with  the  same  material.  Each 
slab  in  the  building  is  carefully  fitted  to  its  place, 
where  it  becomes  congealed  and  frozen  into  the  solid 
mass.  AH  the  crevices  are  plugged  up,  and  the 
seama  carefully  closed,  by  throwing  loose  snow  over 
the  fabric.  The  walls  are  only  three  or  four  inches 
in  thickness,  and  therefore  nearly  translucent ;  so 


over 
inches 
It;  60 


BIB  JOHN  BICHABDSON's  KXPEDITION. 


45 


X. 


that  they  admit  an  agreeable  light  to  the  interior 
from  without.  All  the  I'nrrutiire,  consisting  of  seats, 
tables,  and  sleeping  places,  are  formed  of  snow,  and 
are  covered  with  rein-deer  or  seal  skins,  which  ren- 
der them  quite  comfortable.  Often  these  houses 
are  built  contiguous  to  each  other,  with  low  galleries 
running  between  them.  These  houses  are  durable, 
and  the  sun  rarely  acquires  sufficient  strength  in  that 
clime  either  to  thaw  or  to  destroy  them. 

The  Esquimaux  who  live  on  the  estuary  of  the 
Mackenzie  river,  carry  on  a  traffic  with  tho  western 
Esquimaux  from  the  region  of  Point  Bprrow  and 
Behring's  Straits,  whom  they  meet  half-way  between 
their  respective  homes  on  the  coast.  The  central 
Esquimaux  have  but  little  traffic  with  the  Europeans, 
and  articles  of  Russian  manufacture  ai3  never  or 
rarely  seen  further  east  than  Point  Atkinson.  Those 
who  live  between  Behring's  Straits  rnd  the  Mac- 
kenzie pierce  the  lower  lip  near  the  angle  of  the 
mouth,  and  till  the  aperture  with  labrets  resembling 
buttons,  sometimes  made  of  blue  quartz,  and  some- 
times of  ivory.  Many  of  them  transfix  the  septum 
of  the  nose  with  an  ivory  needle.  The  women  are 
generally  tattooed  on  the  chin ;  and  turn  up  and  plait 
their  hair  carefully,  and  are  not  devoid  of  pride  in 
theij'  personal  appearance.  From  this  circumstance 
northern  navigators  justly  infer  that  more  deference 
is  paid  to  them  by  the  men,  than  usually  prevails 
among  semi-barbarous  tribes.  It  is  said  by  Captain 
Richardson,  that  the  unmarried  women  among  the 
Esquimaux  are  modest  and  decorous  in  their  deport- 
ment; but  that  the  married  ones  allow  themselves 
very  considerable  liberties,  and  that,  too,  svith  the  con- 
nivance of  their  husbands.  Yet  this  reserve,  even 
among  the  unmarried  Esquimaux  women,  does  not 
exist  among  the  tribes  located  on  the  northern  coast 
of  Greenland.  There  both  young  and  old  indicated 
their  vicious  laxity  to  the  navigators  by  signs  and 
gestui'es  of  the  most  indelicate  and  unequivocal  uar 


\ 


>     .! 


I    ! 


1 


452 


PKOGRE8S  OF   AROTIC  DISCOVERT. 


tnre,  and  more  than  once,  wives  have  been  knoTvn  to 
be  oftered  to  the  strangers  by  their  husbands  them- 
selves, plainly  and  without  disguise,  while  the  wo- 
man herself  stood  by,  and  freely  acquiesced  in  her 
proposed  prostitution. 

The  Esquimaux  like  most  barbarians  are  excellent 
mimics.  They  possess  the  power  of  imitating  the 
gestures  and  voices  of  others  with  great  ability 
Ihey  also  display  extraordinary  powers  of  grimace 
and  contortion,  and  could  exhibit  themselves  in  the 
most  singular  positions  and  attitudes.  The  dress  of 
both  sexes  is  very  nearly  alike,  and  consists  of  a  coat 
with  a  pointed  skirt  both  before  and  behind ;  pantaloons 
or  leggings  which  extend  to  the  waist ;  and  long 
boots  made  of  seal  skin,  and  water  tight,  resembling 
moccasins.  They  have  acquired  considerable  skill 
in  the  preparation  of  whale,  seal,  and  deer  skins. 
These  they  use  for  various  purposes,  some  as  thongs 
and  lines  in  the  capture  of  sea-beasts,  some  as  har- 
ness for  their  dog-sledges,  and  some  as  soles  for  their 
moccasins,  which  are  thus  rendered  water-proof. 
They  have  also  invented  a  light  water-proof  outer 
dress,  formed  from  the  intestines  of  the  whale,  which 
they  secure  around  the  top  of  their  small  canoes, 
and  which  protects  them  from  the  waves  of  the  sea. 
They  acquire  extraordinary  skill  in  the  management 
of  tlieir  canoes  or  kaiyaks,  and  possess  the  hardihood 
of  fearless  seamen.  Their  dogs  and  reindeer  consti- 
tute their  chief  wealth,  and  are  in  fact  quite  iudispen- 
sable  to  their  existence  and  comfort. 

The  religion  of  the  great  Esquimaux  race  is  a  sin- 
gular subject  of  inquiry,  and  yet  one  which  furnishes 
only  the  most  unsatisfactory  results.  Their  religious 
conceptions  are  simple  and  crude  in  the  extreme. 
There  is  but  little  to  know  of  them  on  this  point ;  a^  1 
that  little  is  not  to  their  credit.  The  most  prominent 
idea  in  their  religion  is  the  belief  in  witchcraft,  and 
in  the  agency  of  evil  spi.  ts.  They  worship  demons 
much  more  devoutly  than  they  worship  God.     Oer 


BIB  JOHN  BIOHABDSON  8  EXPEDITION. 


453 


tain  individuals  among  them  profess  to  possess  a 
great  influence  over  evil  spirits.  They  believe  that 
persons  are  killed  by  sorcery ;  that  they  are  and  may 
become  the  messengers  and  servants  of  the  devil ; 
that  sorcerers  niay  change  the  appearance  of  indi- 
viduals who  are  under  their  spell ;  and  accordingly, 
sorcerers  are  themselves  a  powerful  class  among 
them. 

Yet  the  Esquimaux  have  often  become  willing  and 
docile  converts  to  the  christian  faith,  as  taught  them 
by  the  Moravian  missionaries  in  Labrador  and  Green- 
land. They  have  readily  acquired  the  art  of  reading 
and  writing,  and  displayed  no  inconsiderable  apti- 
tude for  the  acquisition  of  knowledge.  The  language 
of  the  Esquimaux  is  admitted  by  the  most  learned 
philologists  to  be  similar  in  its  structure  to  the  rest 
of  the  J>forth  American  tongues.  There  seems  to  be 
a  singular  inconsistency  between  the  comprehensive- 
ness and  artificial  structure  of  the  language,  and  its 
resemblance  to  that  of  neighboring  Indian  tribes,  and 
the  isolation  of  the  people  themselves.  Their  lan- 
guage does  not  materially  vary  along  the  whole  im- 
mense extent  of  country  over  which  their  race  is 
diffused ;  thus  furnishing  another  evidence  of  the 
identity  and  unity  of  this  primitive  and  singular 
people. 

X  et  the  Esquimaux  are  divided  into  eaveral  tribes 
according  to  their  different  locations.  Tiiose  on  the 
southern  portion  of  King  William's  Sound,  are  called 
the  TohugaUchih 'y  and  they  are  located  between 
Behring's  Straits  and  Bristol  Bay.  Further  to  the 
north  the  Kuskatchewak  reside  between  the  island 
!Nuniwak  and  Cape  ^Newenham.  These  are  neitiier 
nomadic  nor  given  to  the  chase;  but  dwell  in  per- 
manent villages,  and  have  a  strong  attachment  to 
their  ancestral  homes.  In  each  of  these  villages  there 
is  a  public  building  termed  the  Kashiin,  where  coun- 
cils and  festivals  are  held.  It  has  raised  platforms 
around  the  walls,  with  a  place  in  the  center  for  the 


; 


i 


\ 

»     i     »      ■ 


I 


I     ! 


I     1 


;rii 


:.1«J: 


f"'' 


454 


PROQEK88  OP   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


fire,  and  an  aperture  in  the  roof  for  the  escape  of  the 
Binoke  and  the  admissioi   of  light. 

The  Tchukche  tribe  who  inhabit  the  shores  of  the 
Gulf  of  Anadyn,  seem  once  to  have  had  possession  of 
the  coast  of  Asia,  as  far  westward  as  tJie  one  hundred 
and  sixtieth  parallel.  They  are  divided  in  the  Sed- 
entary, and  the  Reindeer  Tchukche.  These  are  both 
strong  and  powerful  races,  and  very  much  resemble 
in  their  appearance  the  North  American  Indians. 
The  encroachments  of  the  Russians  and  Cossacks 
have  driven  them  back  beyond  the  Kolyma,  into  the 
north-eastern  corner  of  Asia ;  but  there  they  have  re- 
mained free  and  unsubdued  by  their  more  powerful 
assailants.  This  tribe  has  domesticated  both  the  dog 
and  the  reindeer,  of  which  they  possess  numerous 
herds.  They  are  skillful  traders  in  furs  and  walrus' 
teeth,  which  they  exchange  for  tobacco,  articles  of 
iron,  hardware,  and  trinkets.  They  frequently  travel 
on  their  sledges  drawn  by  reindeer,  accompanied  by 
their  women  and  children,  their  arms,  tents,  and 
household  goods.  Their  yearly  journeys  continue  for 
six  months,  for  they  make  circuitous  routes  in  pursuit 
of  pasture  and  trade.  Previous  to  the  establishment 
of  the  Russian  Fur  company,  these  people  yearly 
traveled  for  these  purposes  over  an  extent  of  seven- 
teen hundred  miles  of  North  American  coast. 

Another  tribe  of  the  Esquimaux  are  called  the 
Kutchins,  v^-Jio  live  westward  between  the  Macken- 
zie and  Bohring's  Sea.  The  males  possess  the  aver- 
age height  of  Europeans,  are  well  formed,  with  reg- 
ular features,  high  foreheads,  and  light  complexions. 
The  women  resemble  the  men ;  and  Captain  Richard- 
son speaks  of  the  wife  of  one  of  the  chiefs  as  being 
so  handsome,  that  in  any  country  she  would  be  con- 
sidered a  line  looking  woman.  The  women  have 
their  chins  tattooed,  and  the  men  paint  their  faces 
both  red  and  black.  Their  arms  consist  of  a  bow  and 
arrow,  a  dagger,  knife,  and  spear.  Eire-arms  have 
lately  been  introduced  among  them,  and  are  very 


SIR  JOHN  RICHARDSON'S  EXPEDITTON. 


455 


much  prized.  Where  a  man  has  not  been  able  to  ob- 
tain a  gun,  he  always  cari-ies  witli  liim  a  supply  of 
powder  and  shot,  and  for  these  ho  obtains  a  share  of 
the  game  killed  b}'^  the  possessors  of  a  gun  or  rifle. 
This  singular  expedient  exists  very  extensively  among 
the  Esquimaux  tribes. 

The  chipf  men  among  the  Kutchins  practice  polyg- 
amy, and  have  two  or  three  wives,  and  some  even 
five.     Very  poor  men  who  cannot  support  a  wife  re- 
main single.     But  it  is  said  that  a   good  wrestler, 
whether  poor  or  rich,  can  always  obtain  a  wife.     In 
winter  the  women  perform  all  the  drudgery  about 
the  house.    They  collect  the  firewood,  assist  the  dogs 
in  hauling  the  sledges,  and  bring  snow  to  melt  for 
water.     They  do  everything,  in  fact,  except  cooking, 
and  that  is  attended  to  by  the  inen  alone.     The  wo- 
men carry  their  infants,  like  the  rest  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, on  their  backs  in  seats  made  from  birch  bark, 
with  the  sides  and  back  resembling  those  of  an  arm- 
chair.    They  even  bandage  the  feet  of  their  children 
to  prevent  them  from  growing,  inasmuch  as  small 
feet  are  considered  handsome.    This  custom  resem- 
bles that  of  the  Chinese,  except  that  it  is  not  confined 
to  the  females.     The  Kutchins  are  a  lively  and  cheer- 
ful people.     Dancing   and   singing   are  their  chief 
amusements ;  wrestling  and  all  kinds  of  athletic  di- 
versions are  in  fashion  among  them.     Their  religion 
also  consists  chietiy  in  the  belief  in  sorcery  and  evil 
spirits,  whom  they  endeavor  to  propitiate  through 
their  shamans,  who  profess  to  be  able  to  communicate 
with  the  unseen  world,  and  to  possess  the  power  of 
prophesying  future  events.     When  any  one  of  their 
tribe  dies  suddenly,  or  unexpectedly,  the  event  is  al- 
ways attributed  to  sorcery  ;   and  some  evil  spell  is 
charged  against  either  a  member  of  their  own  tribe  or 
of  some  neigboring  one.    Then  blood  money  is  imme- 
diately demanded,  and  if  it  be  refused,  they  do  not 
rest  until  an  opportunity  is  found  to  avenge  the  sup- 
posed murder  by  some  retributive  deed  of  violence 


I*. 


i' 


456 


PROOBE88  OP  ARCTIC  DWCOVERTT. 


and  death.  An  instance  is  narrated  in  which  blood 
money  was  demanded  and  received  for  several  years, 
for  the  supposed  death  of  a  relative  who  was  after- 
ward discovered  to  be  still  alive.  When  demand  was 
again  made  the  ensuing  year  for  the  usual  payment, 
three  of  tlie  party  making  it  were  slain  in  expiation 
of  their  falsehood  and  extortion. 

These  Kutchins  are  treaclierous  and  warlike ;  and 
generally  engaged  in  hostilities  with  the  surrounding 
tribes.  One  half  of  the  population  of  the  Yukon 
has  thus  been  destroyed  during  the  last  twenty-live 
years.  They  pass  the  summer  months  chiefly  in  dry- 
ing the  white-lish  for  winter  use.  Their  wealth  con- 
sists partly  in  beads ;  and  to  become  a  chief  among 
the  Kutchins,  a  man  must  have  beads  equal  in  value 
to  the  amount  of  two  hundred  beavers.  In  summer 
when  they  are  traveling  they  rarely  erect  their  tents. 
In  winter  their  encampments  are  usually  placed  in 
groves  of  fir  trees,  where  they  either  live  in  huts  or 
m  their  winter  tents  constructed  of  skins  with  the  hair 
unremoved. 

The  process  of  courtship  among  these  people  is 
very  simple  indeed.  The  lover  goes  early  in  the 
morning  to  the  abode  of  the  object  of  his  passion, 
and  without  saying  anything,  begins  to  bring  in  wa- 
ter ;  to  heat  the  stones  which  are  used  to  create  steam 
for  their  bath;  and  to  prepare  food.  The  inmates 
then  ask  him  who  he  is,  and  why  iie  does  this.  He 
states  that  he  wishes  to  obtain  the  daughter  of  the 
man  who  dwells  there  as  his  wife.  If  he  is  not  re- 
fused, he  remains  as  a  servant  in  the  family  for  a 
year,  and  at  the  termination  of  that  probationary  pe- 
riod he  receives  both  a  reward  for  his  services  and  his 
bride  into  the  bargain.  No  ceremony  of  marriage 
takes  place  between  them.  When  a  man  dies,  he  is 
mourned  by  his  whole  clan.  Slavery  exists  among 
them  to  some  extent ;  and  those  who  are  in  bondage, 
are  prisoners  taken  captive  in  war,  who  are  often  sold 
and  re-sold  by  different  owners,  unless  they  are  re- 


era  JOHN  RICHARDSON  8  EXPEDITION. 


457 


deemed  by  their  own  relatives.  Tliese  slaves  liavo 
been  known  to  be  sometimes  sacriticed  as  victims  to 
the  shades  of  their  departed  warriors  and  heroes. 
They  also  possess  the  art  of  manufacturini]^  varior.s 
articles  of  iron  ware  ;  an  accomplishment  which  they 
probably  derived  at  an  early  period,  from  their  inter- 
coTU'se  with  Russian  traders. 

The  winter  havinj;  at  length  passed  away,  the  trav- 
elers who  composed  Sir  John  Kichardson's  company 
at  Fort  Confidence,  prepared  in  the  ensuing  spring  to 
resume  their  operations.  It  yet  remained  their  duty  to 
reach  Wollaston  and  Victoria  Lands,  and  thus  to  com- 
plete the  search  in  that  direction.  In  consequence  of 
the  forced  desertion  and  loss  of  the  boats  of  the  expe- 
dition as  previously  narrated,  it  would  have  beem  im- 
practicable for  the  whole  party  to  accompany  those 
who  performed  this  journey ;  nor  was  this  in  fact 
necessary  ;  and  Mr.  Rae,  the  younger  and  more  ro- 
bust associate  of  Captain  Richardson,  was  selected  to 
perform  the  service  which  yet  remained.  The  ability 
and  zeal  of  this  gentleman  well  fitted  him  for  the 
task.  He  had  already  explored  the  country  between 
Fort  Confidence  and  the  Coppermine  River  during 
the  winter  months,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
the  best  route  to  be  followed  in  the  spring. 

Accordingly,  in  April  Mr.  Rae,  taking  charge  of 
the  only  boat  which  the  expedition  still  possessed, 
conveyed  provisions,  boat-stores,  and  various  other 
necessaries  on  dog-sledges,  across  toward  the  Kendall 
River,  and  posted  two  men  at  Flett's  Station,  together 
with  two  Indians,  to  protect  them.  Six  men  composed 
the  crew  of  the  boat  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Rae. 
Two  men  were  lei'  in  charge  of  Fort  Confidence. 

Mr.  Rae  having  waited  lor  the  breaking  up  of  the 
ice  on  the  Dease  River,  hauled  his  boat  thither,  on 
■"vhich  he  embarked  on  the  8  th  of  June.  His  ascent 
of  the  stream  was  slow,  in  consequence  of  the  large 


masses  of  ice,  some  of  them  miles  in 


length, 


which 


% 


'1 


(  = 


impeded  his  progress.    They  ascended  the  south-east- 


458 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


ern  branch  of  that  stream.  On  the  17th  they  passed 
over  the  lake  from  which  the  river  flows,  on  the  ice. 
It  contains  some  ishmds  and  is  four  miles  in  width. 
From  this  lake  they  traveled  overland  for  six  miles 
nearly  due  east,  and  on  the  21st  they  reached  the  Ken- 
dall River,  to  which  the  provisions  had  been  previ- 
ously conveyed  in  April.  They  then  descended  the 
Kendall  to  the  Coppermine  River. 

At  this  place  they  were  detained  by  the  ice,  which 
was  still  unbroken,  during  five  days.  They  then  sailed 
down  the  Coppermine  to  the  sea ;  and  found  a  nar- 
row channel  along  the  shore  of  Richardson  Bay, 
where  the  ice  '^^till  b?  t  gainst  the  rocks.  They  pro- 
ceeded on  and  roiS'  icu  l^ointltfackenzie,  and  entered 
Back's  inlet,  vuicii  v'as  then  but  partially  opened. 
They  soon  rtJXili'  \  liie  l^ead  of  the  inlet,  and  at  once 
sailed  up  Rae  River,  wLich  Captain  Richardson  had 
discovered  the  preceding  autunm. 

For  the  purpose  of  examining  the  country,  Mr.  Rae 
followed  the  river  for  twenty  geographical  miles  in- 
land. It  is  very  straight  in  its  direction,  and  flows 
over  a  bed  of  limestone.  Its  banks  are  extremely 
rugged,  and  sometimes  presented  precipices  200  feet 
in  lieight.  The  party  then  returned  to  the  mouth  of 
the  river.  Their  position  now  was  67°  55'  20"  north 
latitude.  They  reached  Cape  Kendall,  where  they 
experienced  a  heavy  thunder-storm,  which  compelled 
them  to  land.  On  the  27th  they  continued  their 
course  to  Cape  Hearne.  Basil  Hall  Bay  they  found 
filled  with  unbroken  ice  from  one  side  to  the  other. 
The  next  day  a  crack  occurred  in  the  ice  large  enough 
to  permit  the  boat  to  reach  an  island  in  the  middle 
of  the  bay.  On  the  north  side  of  this  island  they 
found  some  open  water  which  enabled  them  to  ad- 
vance two  miles  further.  On  the  30th  they  reached 
Cape  Krusenstern. 

This  was  the  most  suitable  spot  from  which  to  de- 
sert the  shore,  and  commence  the  traverse  or  direct 
route  ^-o  Wollaston  Land,  passing  near  to  Douglass 


BIB  JOHN  RICHARDSON  S  EXPEDITION. 


459 


Island.  This  circumstance  was  more  fortunate,  as 
tlie  condition  of  the  ice  along  the  shore  rendered 
tlieir  further  advance  in  that  direction  impossible. 
The  party  disembarked  here  and  pitched  tlieir  tents 
on  4he  top  of  tlie  cliffs,  and  waited  for  a  more  favor- 
able state  of  the  ^*ce  ;  which  liad  already  commenced 
to  break  up.  IlfciC  they  were  visited  by  some  Esqui- 
maux, who  ''nformed  them  that  they  had  seen  several 
natives  of  Wollaston  Land  during  the  preceding  win- 
ter and  had  been  informed  by  them  that  no  European 
ships,  boats,  or  seamen  had  ever  visited  their  coun- 
try. Tho,  chaation  of  the  party  here  was  ascertained 
to  be  68°  24'  35"  north  latitude. 

The  ice  in  the  bay  was  not  sufficiently  cleared  to 
permit  Mr.  Rae  to  proceed  until  the  19th  of  August. 
Until  this  period  there  had  been  a  closely  pr  ked 
stream  of  ice  stretching  along  the  entire  shor»x  ar  i 
grinding  against  the  rocks  as  it  was  drive?  up  : 
them  by  the  wind.  Having  pulled  seven  m>'  s  i''*om 
land  and  being  yet  three  miles  distant  from  J>»o.  .lass 
Island,  they  were  met  by  a  stream  of  ice  s:  closely 
packed  and  so  rough,  that  it  was  impossil  Either 
to  pass  over  it  or  through  it.  This  compelled  the 
company  to  return  to  their  former  position  on  the 
shore.  During  several  succeeding  days  they  poled 
their  way  along  the  beach,  and  thus  advanced  a  few 
miles  to  the  southward.  On  the  evening  of  the  22d 
Mr.  Rae  ascended  a  hill  near  the  shorj,  and  there  be- 
held with  a  spy-glass  nothing  in  the  direction  of  Wol- 
laston Land  but  the  white  ice  forced  upward  by  the 
wind  into  irregular  heaps;  while  to  the  east  and 
south-east  there  was  a  large  space  of  open  water,  be- 
tween which  and  the  ice-bound  shore,  a  vast  stream 
of  ice  some  miles  in  length  was  driving  ra^^idly  toward 
Cape  liearne. 

There  was  now  no  prospect  that  the  sea  would  open 
BO  as  to  permit  the  frail  craft  in  which  Mr.  Rae  and 
his  men  were  embarked  to  ventr  ^e  across  the  main 
to  Wollaston  Land.     Winter   was  then   very  near ; 


'I 


460 


PBOOBE88   OF  ABOTIC  DI8CX)VERT. 


and  Mr.  Kae  wns  reluctantly  compellcrl  to  pjive  the 
onler  to  return  to  the  Conpennino  Kiver.  In  usccnd- 
mff  this  river  to  the  Jiloocly  Fall,  the  company  met  the 
misfortune  of  losinpj  Albert,  their  Escjuimaux  inter- 
preter, and  one  of  the  most  useful  members  of  tlie 
expedition.  He  was  drowned  in  attempting  to  extri- 
cate the  boat  from  a  dangerous  eddy  into  which  it 
had  been  drawn.  The  boat  was  lost  with  him.  They 
then  commenced  their  journey  on  foot  across  the  land 
toward  Great  Bear  Lake,  each  man  carrying  a  weight 
of  about  eighty  pounds.  After  seven  days'  march 
from  the  Bloody  Fall  the  party  reached  Fort  Conii- 
dence,  whence  the  expedition  had  started.  They  had 
failed  to  discover  any  traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
and  had  not  even  reached  WoUaston  Land,  the  pro- 
posed terminus  of  their  Journey,  in  consequence  of 
the  strait  being  filled  with  impassable  ice. 

Meanwhile  Captain  llichardson  and  the  rest  of  the 
men  belonging  to  the  expedition,  explored  Bear  Lake 
and  Cape  McDonald.  They  then  reached  Fort  Frank- 
lin. Tiie  only  vestige  of  the  latter  which  remained, 
was  the  foundation  of  the  chimney-stack.  Theuce 
they  proceeded  to  Fort  Nurman.  They  then  em- 
barked on  Bear  Lake  River  and  descended  with  the 
current  to  its  mouth.  Retracing  the  route  which 
they  had  pursued  in  their  outward  journey  during 
the  preceding  year,  the  company  eventually  reached 
Metiiy  Lake;  where  Captain  Richardson  received 
his  lirbt  letters  from  England,  which  had  been  brought 
up  from  Canada  by  the  governor's  canoe,  which  annu- 
ally leaves  La  Chine  in  May.  He  arrived  at  Norway 
House  on  the  13th  of  August,  and  there  the  men 
composing  the  expedition  were  discharged.  The  Eu- 
ropeans among  them  were  sent  down  to  York  factory 
to  sail  to  England  in  one  of  the  ships  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  company. 

Captain  Richardson  himself  returned  by  way  of 
Boston  to  Liverpool ;  and  thus  ended  this  additional 
attempt  to  discover  ISir  John  Franklin's  late,  without 


CAPTAIN  KKNNEI  Y  »  VOYAGE. 


461 


liavinp^  ohtrtinofl  tlio  slii^lifcst  cliio  of  thorn  ;  altlionnrh 
tho  plan  of  8L'ari;li  piirsin.'il  possessed  some  novel  and 
very  et)iisi(leral)le  advantages  in  its  favor. 

Tiiic  Skcond  Yoyaok  of  tiik  Pkin'ck  Albert  in  Skarch 
OF  Sir  John  Franklin,  undkb  the  command  of  Wil- 
liam Kennedy,  in  185i3. 

This  expedition  was  fitted  out  for  the  second  time 
by  the  liberality  of  Lady  Franklin.  The  vessel  was 
bniall,  but  had  proved  herself,  on  a  former  voyage 
to  the  Polar  seas,  well  adapted  to  the  service.*  That 
voyage  resulted  in  discovering  traces  of  the  the  miss- 
ing ships  at  the  entnmce  ot  Wellington  Channel ; 
and  on  its  return  Lady  Franklin  instantly  resolved  to 
equip  the  present  undertaking,  with  hopes  of  more 
complete  success  ;  and  Captain  Kennedy  was  invited 
by  her  to  take  the  command. 

In  May,  1851,  the  Prince  Albert  lay  in  the  harbor 
of  Aberdeen  ready  for  sea.  Along  the  sides  from 
the  keel  to  about  two  feet  above  the  water-line,  there 
had  been  placed  a  doubling  of  planking  two  and  a 
half  inches  thick.  The  bows  and  stern-posts  were 
sheathed  in  wrought  iron,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness.  Her  hold  had  been  strengthened  with  a 
perfect  labyrinth  of  cross-beams,  for  the  purpose  of 
better  enabling  her  to  endure  the  immense  pressure 
of  the  ice.  Tiie  object  of  this  second  expedition  of 
the  Prince  Albert,  was  to  continue  the  search  by  way 
of  Prince  UegenCa  Inlet^  an  important  portion  of  the 
Polar  region,  which  neither  Captain  Penny  nor  Cap- 
tain Austin  had  explored,  nor  any  other  Arctic  voy- 
ager previous  to  that  period. 

The  crew  of  the  Prince  Albert  consisted  of  the 
commanding  olKcer  and  seventeen  men.  She  was 
furnislied  with  two  large  and  valuable  boats,  one  of 
guttapercha,  and  the  otlier  of  mahogany  ;  together 

*  See  page  848  of  this  volume  for  the  details  of  tbia  Toyagtti 

29 


il 


J  I 


I  ' 


8 


462 


PROGRESS   or  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


With  several  Bmallcr  ones.  Tlio  vessel  was  provi- 
eioned  for  two  years.  On  tlio  22(1  nf  May  slio  left 
Aberdeen  IFarhor.  Lady  Franklin  was  theti  on  hoard, 
and  M8  she  left  the  ship  after  oxi>re8sin::all  her  wishes 
and  hopes  for  the  Buccess  of  the  gallant  erew,  was 
loudly  and  enthusiastically  cheered,  as  she  deserved 
to  he,  as  she  descended  the  vessel's  side  to  return  to 
the  shore.  On  the  23d  of  June  they  made  Hoy 
Sound,  and  soon  reached  Cape  Farewell.  Captain 
Kennedy  had  been  Mistructed  to  examine  Prince  Ile- 
irent's  Inlet,  and  the  ])as8a<]ces  connecting  it  with  the 
Western  Sea,  south-west  of  Capo  Walker.  To  the 
latter  point,  strong  probabilities  in  favor  of  finding 
traces  of  Sir  John  iM-anklin  concentrated  ;  inasmuch 
as  it  was  supposed  to  bo  likely  that  he  abandoned  his 
vessels  to  the  south-west  of  Cane  Walker ;  from  the 
fact  that  ho  himself  entertainea  the  opinion  that  an 
open  passage  was  to  be  found  from  the  westward  into 
the  south  part  of  Regent's  Inlet ;  and  because  this  re- 
gion of  country  was  known  to  possess  considerable 
animal  life,  and  he  would  liave  the  stores  placed  at 
Fury  Beach  soon  within  his  reach.  It  was  also 
thoujght  that  he  would  have  pursued  this  route,  inas- 
much as  he  more  probably  expected  assistance  to  be 
Bent  him  by  way  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow 
Straits,  into  which  Regent's  Inlet  opened,  than  by  any 
other  direction. 

By  the  Ist  of  July  Captain  Kennedy  was  in  full 
view  of  the  shores  of  Greenland.  They  then  pre- 
sented a  spectacle  of  more  than  ordinary  interest  and 
sublimity.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  they  seemed 
a  sterile  and  iron-bound  coast,  diversified  here  and 
there  with  huge  clitfs  of  rock  and  ice,  ascending 
sternly  into  the  wintry  heavens  a  thousand  feet  in 
height.  Often  gloomy  caverns  were  seen  in  the  ice 
which  were  portals  lor  the  discharge  of  some  half- 
frozen  stream  into  the  ocean,  filled  with  small  ice- 
bergs wliich  were  but  rolling  and  tossing  in  the  fiood. 
The  vessel  soou  passed  Capes  Desolation  and  Com- 


11^  i 


CAPTAIN  KENNEDY  8   VOYAQK. 


463 


fort;  nnd  by  the  8tli  of  July  they  were  tlirco-fonrtha 
of  their  wivy  up  Biitlin'rt  Bay,  and  nearly  oj)|K)sito  to 
the  Danish  village  of  Upornavick.  At  this  village 
they  to(>k  on  board  six  powerful  Kscpiiiniiux  dogs,  and 
seaUkin  hoata  adapted  to  the  Aretic  r(.'gi()ns. 

On  the  l.'>th,  the  Prince  Albert  fell  in  with  the 
American  squadron  which  had  just  escaped  from  tlieir 
extraordinary  drift  of  eight  months  in  the  heart  of 
the  pack,  through  Lancaster  Sound  and  Baffin's  Bay. 
Finding  ^relvillo  Bay  completely  closed  by  the  ice, 
Captain  Kennedy  determined  to  attempt  a  passage 
further  south.  After  four  days  of  dilKcult  and  peril- 
ous navigation,  they  succeeded  in  effecting  an  advance 
of  120  miles  through  the  packed  ice,  and  reached 
"West  Water  on  the  21st  of  August.  This  was  a  very 
perilous  exploit,  and  is  one  which  has  proved  the  de- 
struction of  many  a  bold  adventurer  in  those  seas. 
The  s:-:ill  dimensions  of  the  Prince  Albert  seem  to 
have  given  her  great  advantages  over  her  more  bulky 
associates.  On  the  26th  of  Au<^u8t  they  were  on* 
Pond's  Bay,  and  were  here  for  the  last  time  visited 
by  a  small  company  of  Esquimaux.  The  extreme 
rarity  of  the  atmosphere  in  these  northern  climes, 
was  proved  by  the  fact,  that  the  voices  of  the  Esqui- 
maux could  be  clearly  heard  as  they  approached  the 
vessel,  !it  the  distance  of  eight  miles. 

From  Pond's  Bay  Captain  Kennedy  steered  through 
Lancaster  Sound.  On  the  3d  of  September  he 
reached  Barrow  Straits.  At  this  point  he  attempted 
to  reach  Cape  HI  ley,  in  hope  of  there  finding  traces 
of  Sir  John  Franklin ;  but  after  bearing  up  repeated- 
ly for  the  North  Land  through  heavy  fogs,  snow,  and 
gales,  was  compelled  to  abandon  the  purpose.  On 
tiie  4th  of  September  Captain  Kennedy  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  Pn'nce  liegent's  Inlet,  one  of  the  special 
objects  of  hib  search,  lie  there  found  an  unbroken 
barrier  of  ice  extending  as  far  down  the  west  side  of 
Prince  liegent's  Inlet  as  the  eye  could  see,  piled  up 
in  dense  masses  on  the  shore.    The  eastern  side  ana 


i 


V         ( 


I 


•        I 


I 


464 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


middle  of  the  inlet  were  comparatively  open.  Tliis 
state  of  tile  ice  forbade  further  progress  in  the  in- 
tended direction.  They  attempted  to  run  into  Leo- 
pold Harbor,  but  found  that  also  impossible.  Thence 
they  ran  down  to  Elwin  Bay  to  Batty  Bay,  and  to 
Fury  Beach,  finding  them  all  closed.  They  were 
very  nearly  involved  in  the  position  which  had  proved 
the  destruction  o*'  the  Fury — in  a  narrow  lane  be- 
tween the  shore  and  an  extensive  field  of  moving  ice. 
Being  thus  excluded  entirely  from  the  western  shore 
of  the  inlet,  they  were  compelled  to  sail  to  the  oppo- 
site. After  making  a  circuit  of  some  forty  hours 
along  a  high  and  dead  wall  of  ice,  they  reached  Port 
Bowen  on  the  5th.  Landing^here,  Captain  Kennedy 
found  a  few  traces  of  Sir  E.  Parry's  party.  These 
were  several  cairjis,  a  fire-place  of  stones,  pieces  of 
canvas,  nails,  and  broken  pipes.  There  was  here, 
also,  a  single  grave,  the  lonely  resting-place  of  one 
John  Cottrell,  a  seaman  of  the  Fury,  who  was  buried 
in  July,  1825,  aged  thirty-nine. 

It  was  still  regarded  as  of  the  utmost  importance  to 
reach  Port  Leopold,  and  there  etiect  a  landing.  On 
th(}  0th  having  crossed  the  inlet,  and  brought  tlie  ship 
to  within  several  miles  of  Cape  Seppings,  the  southern 
point  of  Port  Leopold,  Captain  Ivennedy  determined 
to  land  with  the  gutta-percha  boat,  and  four  seamen, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  explorations.  He  found  a 
narrow  lane  of  water  which  brought  them  quickly  to 
the  shore.  On  ascending  the  clitts  on  Cape  Seppings, 
the  appearance  of  the  ice  was  such  as  to  induce  Cap- 
tain Kennedy  to  conclude  that  very  soon  the  Regent's 
Inlet  would  become  clear  and  navigable.  After  an 
hour  spent  on  shore,  he  prepared  to  return  to  the 
ship,  but  found  his  progress  entirely  cut  otf  by  the 
ice,  which,  during  his  delay,  had  entirely  changed 
its  position.  Night  soon  came  on.  The  ocean  was 
covered  with  huge  masses  of  ice  ;  grinding,  tossing 
and  rearing  furiously  on  every  side.  To  attempt  to 
reach  the  ship  then,  was  directly  to  court  destruction. 


CAPTAIN  KENNEDY  S  VOYAGE. 


465 


They  were  compelled  to  draw  up  their  boat  on  the 
beach,  and  turning  her  over,  to  prepare  to  pass  the 
niglit  under  her.  So  intense  was  the  cold  tliat  Cap- 
tain Kennedy  was  compelled  to  prevent  the  men 
from  sleeping  during  the  whole  night,  knowing  that 
that  alone  would  prevent  them  from  freezing  to  death. 
"When  the  next  morning  dawned,  and  they  looked  out 
on  the  troubled  sea,  they  found  that  every  vestige  of 
the  Prince  Albert  liad  vanished. 

This  position  of  the  captain  and  his  men,  was  both 
unpleasant  and  dangerous.  He  determined  lirst  to 
fall  back  to  Whaler  roint,  where  Sir  James  Ross  had 
deposited  a  store  of  provisions.  They  found  the 
house  erected  by  Sir  James,  still  standing,  and  the 
provisions  in  good  order,  consisting  of  pemmican, 
chocolate  and  biscuit. 

It  was  now  the  10th  of  September  and  winter  was 
upon  them.  The  only  remedy  for  the  lonely  exiles, 
was  to  make  the  best  preparations  possible  to  pass  the 
winter  at  Whaler  Point,  hoping  in  the  ensuing  spring 
to  obtain  a  rescue.  It  was  a  sad  and  sudden  termi- 
nation to  the  voyage,  and  they  submitted  to  it  most 
reluctantly.  They  went  to  work  and  transformed 
the  launch  left  there  by  Sir  James  Ross  into  a  shelter, 
by  laying  her  main-mast  on  supports  at  the  bow  and 
stern,  and  spreading  over  them  two  sails.  This  pro- 
cured them  a  shelter.  A  stove  was  set  up  in  the 
center  of  the  boat  with  the  pipe  running  through  the 
roof.  This  warmed  them.  Ihey  obtained  blankets 
and  clothes  from  the  depot  left  by  Sir  James ;  and 
this  rendered  their  condition  more  tolerable.  Thus 
their  dreary  residence  in  those  Polar  regions  began, 
with  the  prospect  of  a  long  and  increasingly  rigorous 
winter  before  them.  What  the  linal  issue  might  be, 
they  could  not  predict.  Time  alone  could  solve  that 
mystery.  The  only  signs  of  life  which  appeared 
around  them,  were  a  few  Polar  bears  and  foxes. 

Happily  an  unexpected  termination   was  put   to 
their  danger  and  suspense  on  the  17th  of  September, 


II 


'V' 


I 


i^     ' 


466 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


by  the  sudden  appearance  of  a  party  of  seven  men 
under  Mr.  Bellot,  who  had  left  the  Prince  Albert  in 
search  of  the  absentees,  and  had  dragged  the  jolly- 
boat  all  the  way  from  Batty  Bay.  It  was  tlie  third 
attempt  which  had  been  made  to  discover  and  rescue 
them,  by  the  crew  on  board  the  ship.  The  joy  of 
Captain  Kennedy  and  his  men  at  this  sudden  deliv- 
erance may  readily  be  imagined.  They  were  thus 
snatched  most  probably  from  the  jaws  of  a  frozen  and 
mysterious  grave  which  would  soon  have  closed  over 
them. 

Five  weeks  had  elapsed  during  their  involuntary 
absence  from  the  ship,  and  they  seemed  to  possess 
the  magnitude  of  years  to  the  despairing  wanderers. 
So  far  distant  were  they  from  the  vessel,  that  it  re- 
quired a  journey  of  several  days  to  conduct  them 
thither.  The  company  then  prei)ared  to  pass  the  win- 
ter in  their  present  situation.  The  deck  was  cleared 
of  lumber  and  covered  with  a  housing.  They  then 
built  out-houses  of  snow  for  various  purposes,  for 
wash  houses,  for  a  carpenter  shop,  and  for  forges. 
All  the  powder  on  board  was  taken  on  shore  and 
buried  in  the  snow.  The  winter  was  to  be  passed  in 
making  extensive  land  journevs  in  all  directions,  in 
search  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  They  prepared  a  quan- 
tity of  snow-shoes  and  winter  clothing.  As  soon  as 
the  ice  in  Prince  Regent's  Inlet  permitted  them  to 
travel  from  the  ships  with  safety,  they  commenced 
their  explorations. 

The  first  object  of  inquiry  was  to  ascertain  whether 
Fury  Beach  had  been  a  point  of  refuge  to  any  of  Sir 
John  Franklin's  company,  since  it  was  visited  by 
Lieutenant  Hobinson  in  1849.  It  was  also  desirable 
to  form  a  depot  of  provisions  there,  to  aid  in  future 
researches  which  might  be  made  in  the  same  direc- 
tion. They  followed  the  base  of  the  lofty  cliffs  which 
extend  in  an  almost  continuous  line  from  Batty  Bay 
to  Fury  Beach.  The  company  consisted  of  five  per- 
Bons  including  Captain  Kennedy.    They  dragged  a 


f  i'- 


!» 


CAPTAIN  KENNEDY  8  VOYAGE. 


467 


sleigh  with  them,  which  was  no  easy  task,  as  the 
ground  was  covered  the  entire  way  with  boulders 
and  large  fragments  of  ice,  which  had  been  stranded 
on  the  beach  by  many  successive  tempests.  Tliere 
were  also  immense  eloping  embankments  of  drifted 
snow,  which  lay  high  up  against  the  face  of  theclitfs. 
Their  entire  journey  was  performed  by  moonlight, 
the  sun  having  entirely  bidden  them  farewell  before 
their  departure  from  the  ship. 

Sir  John  Ross  had  erected  in  1832  at  Fury  Beach, 
a  building  which  he  had  named  Somerset  House. 
Many  hopes  centered  around  this  spot,  because  it  was 
reasonably  supposed  that  if  any  of  Franklin's  party 
had  been  imprisoned  in  the  Arctic  seas,  and  had  ever 
come  near  to  Fury  Beach,  they  would  have  repaired 
to  this  well  known  spot,  both  for  shelter  and  provis- 
ions. As  soon  as  Captam  Kennedy  reached  this 
house  on  January  8th,  he  discovered  that  all  his  hopes 
had  been  illusions.  A  death-like  solitude  pervaded 
the  moon-lit  and  frozen  gloom  around  them.  The 
eye  rested  on  a  surrounding  waste,  relieved  by  no 
sign  of  recent  life,  cheered  by  no  evidence  of  the  for- 
mer presence  of  those  whom  they  sought.  The  stores 
which  had  there  been  placed  were  fjidi  in  perfect 
preservation.  The  house  itself  had  I)ecoine  much  di- 
lapidated by  the  severity  of  the  climate,  aud  by  tlio 
rude  salutes  of  those  Arctic  storms.  The  roof  was 
much  broken.  The  inder-statf  had  been  thrown 
down  by  tiie  winds,  and  had  been  gnawed  by  the 
famished  foxes.  One  end  of  the  building  wus  tilled 
with  snow.  They  lighted  a  lire  in  the  stove  which 
Sir  John  Koss  had  once  used,  and  prepared  tlieir  sup- 
per. After  spending  a  few  hours  in  the  careful  ex- 
amination of  that  dreary  spot,  rendered  still  more  mel- 
ancholy by  the  lunar  gloom  and  the  disappointment 
of  all  their  hopes.  Captain  Kennedy  and  his  men 
returned  after  a  journey  of  several  days  to  the  ship. 
No  traces  of  the  lost  navigators  had  been  seen  during 
thia  visit  to  Furv  Beach.     The  state  of  the  weaiUor 


I  I 


46S 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


dnrinor  tho  ensuing  month,  connpelle'l  Captain  Ken- 
nedy to  remain  in  liis  vessel.  There  ihov  were  nearly 
overwliehiied  hy  avahmches  of  snow.  There  seemed 
to  ho  hilt  one  gale  during  the  winter  around  tiio  sliip  ; 
hut  that  jTiile  hlew  when  she  came,  and  continued  till 
she  departed.  It  was  dangerous  to  venture  ioitli  even 
lor  a  sliort  distance;  inasmuch  as  the  snowdrifts  and 
the  darkness  combined,  soon  involved  the  traveler  in 
a  whirling  deluge  which  rendered  it  impossible  to  see 
six  paces  off. 

A  small  party  were  actually  lost  for  a  short  time, 
when  endeavoring  to  convey  some  provisiouo  a  short 
distance  from  the  ship  to  form  a  depot.  After  pro- 
ceeding a  few  hours,  a  furious  hurricane  arose,  which 
drifted  the  snow  in  fearful  masses  around  them.  In 
attemptins^  to  cross  a  bay  on  their  return,  they  lost 
sight  of  the  land  by  which  their  course  was  to  he 
guided.  Neidier  sun,  moon,  or  stars  illumined  the 
heavens.  They  knew  not  which  way  to  turn.  They 
tried  the  expedient  of  setting  the  dogs  loose  wliieh 
drew  the  sledge.  They  all  started  off  at  a  rapid  pace, 
and  afterward  reached  the  ship;  but  their  gait  was 
too  2'apid  for  the  men,  whom  tliey  soon  left  behind  to 
their  fate.  They  still  went  on  Ivnvever,  sometimes 
walking,  sometimes  crawling,  sometimes  climbing 
over  the  immense  blocks  and  masses  of  ice  and  snow 
drifts.  At  length  they  reached  tiie  powder  magazine, 
and  after  some  further  ditiieulty,  they  found  the  ship. 
Their  escape  was  accidental ;  for  the  men  had  be- 
come so  benumbed  with  cold,  as  to  be  able  no  longer 
to  clear  their  eyelids  of  tlie  accumulation  of  snow 
which  had  rested  ou  them,  and  were  thus  nearly  blind. 

Thus  February  wore  away,  and  Ca[)tain  Kennedy 
began  to  prepare  for  the  execution  of  the  chief  land 
journey  whicti  had  been  contemplated  by  the  expe- 
dition. The  end  of  this  journey  was  Cape  Walker; 
for  it  was  supposed  that  if  ISir  John  i'rankliu  had 
taken  his  departure  for  the  unknown  regions  to  the 


SHOW 

liind. 
luedy 

huid 
lixpe- 
Iker ; 

had 
the 


OAPTAm  KENNEDY'S  VOTAOE. 


469 


west  and  eonth-west,  he  would  have  started  from  this 
point,  and  not  from  Wellington  ChanneL 

Five  men  accompanied  Captain  Kennedy  on  this 
excursion.  As  far  as  Fury  Beach  they  were  accom- 
panied hy  seven  persons  as  a  fatigue  party.  Their 
Provisions,  clothing,  and  bedding  were  drawn  on  two 
ndian  sleighs  by  iivc  dogs.  They  started  on  the  25th 
of  February,  and  were  accompanied  by  the  whole 
crew  as  far  as  Batty  Bay.  On  the  5th  of  March 
Captain  Kennedy  reached  Fury  Beach.  Here  they 
remained  several  days,  and  found  the  old  stores  de- 
posited here  by  Sir  John  Ross,  not  only  in  a  state  of 
good  prodervation,  but  also  much  superior  in  quality 
to  those  which  they  brought  with  them.  These  pro- 
visions consisted  ot  preserved  meats,  vegetables,  and 
soups,  and  after  thirty  years'  exposure  to  the  intense 
climate  of  the  Arctic  zone,  they  wore  found  to  be  still 

fierfecti  The  flour  had  all  become  caked  in  solid 
unips,  and  had  to  be  reground  and  passed  through  u 
seivo  before  it  could  be  used;  but  then  it  furnished 
most  excellent  biscuit. 

On  tiie  2Uth  of  March  Captain  Kennedy  resumed 
his  march  from  Fury  Beach.  Ho  had  four  flat-bot- 
tomed Indian  sleiglis,  drawn  by  the  dogs  an'^  men. 
They  proceeded  toward  Cape  Garry  over  a  long  route 
of  flues  and  low-lying  points.  They  uniformly  com- 
menced their  journey  immediately  after  breakfast, 
and  continued  till  evening,  when  a  snow  hut  was 
greeted,  and  preparations  made  to  pass  the  nii^ht  in 
it.  Tneir  labors  were  rarely  over  aud  repose  3grn, 
before  ten  o'clock  at  night. 

On  the  1st  of  April  they  reached  Creswf 
and  in  the  evening  camo  to  Capo  Garry 
thence  proceeded  onward  to  Brentford  Bd 
they  "ound  a  dozen  Esquimaux  huts,  deserted  y  their 
inhabitants.  Here  the  party  divided  fur  tl  •  i>urpose 
of  exploring  several  channels  of  open  waer  which 
extended  toward  the  interior.  Captain  Kennedy 
traveled  twenty  miles  along  one  of  these  ci  aunela. 

T 


Bay, 

They 

where 


III 


1'  i 


f. 


ii:^ 


!    n 


470 


PROGRESS  or  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


From  a  hill  on  which  he  here  encamped  he  saw  a 
broad  channel  running  north-east,  which  he  at  first 
supposed  to  be  a  continuation  of  Brentford  Bay.  Its 
great  extent  however,  convinced  him  that  it  was  a 
western  se",  and  that  the  narrow  passage  through 
whicii  he  had  just  traveled  was  a  strait  leading  out 
of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet.  This  being  apparently  a 
new  discovery,  Captain  Kennedy  called  it  Beilot 
Strait,  after  the  second  officer  of  the  expedition.  This 
water  was  afterward  discovered  to  be  the  northern 
extremity  of  Victoria  Strait,  which  Dr.  Rae  had  ex- 
plored from  another  direction. 

At  this  point  Captain  Kennedy  determined  to  pro- 
ceed in  a  westward  direction,  in  order  to  ascertain 
whether  any  channel  existed  there  through  which 
Sir  John  Franklin  might  have  penetrated  from  Cape 
Walker. 

On  the  8th  of  April  he  started  in  pursuance  of 
this  purpose.  Their  progress  was  slow  in  consequence 
of  the  roughness  of  the  ice.  The  men  became  much 
afflicted  with  snow-blindness,  and  wore  much  dis- 
tressed by  the  sharp  particles  of  snow  drift  whicli 
were  dashed  by  the  furious  wind  into  their  eyes.  The 
wide  region  around  them  was  perfectly  level,  and 
Captain  Kennedy  named  it  Arrow  Smith's  Plains. 
Sometimes  the  severity  of  the  weather  compelled 
them  to  remain  for  several  days  in  their  snuw-iiut. 
They  traveled  on  for  thirteen  days  without  meeting 
any  indications  of  tlie  approaching  sea.  This  con- 
vinced Captain  Kennedy  that  there  was  no  passage 
by  water  to  the  south-west  of  Cape  Walker;  and  that 
due  north  was  now  the  most  desirable  course  to  be 
pursued. 

Following  this  purpose  he  traveled  in  that  direc- 
tion for  twenty  miles  over  a  level  plain.  On  the  24th 
of  April  they  arrived  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  inlet, 
whicli  has  since  been  ascertained  to  be  the  Oir»:na- 
ney  Bay  of  Captain  Austin's  expedition.  From  this 
point  they  steered  eastward,   iu  order  to  strike  the 


CAPTAIN  KENNKDY  8  VOYAGE. 


471 


jsage 
that 

pu  be 

irec- 
24th 

Inlet, 
1'  ina.- 

tiiia 
the 


channel   snppoHcd   to  bo   to   the  eastward  of  Cape 
Bunny,  and  by  t\)llowin<jj  it  to  reach  Cape  Walker. 

After  three  days  they  came  to  Browne's  Hay.  At 
length  on  the  4th  of  May,  they  ap])roached  the  bold 
headland  of  Cape  Walker,  for  the  attainment  of  which 
they  had  endured  so  much.  Here  they  confidently 
hoped  to  find  some  traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  had 
he  followed  the  sug^ijestions  contained  in  his  original 
instructions.  Captain  Kennedy  accordingly  searched 
every  spot  within  three  miles  on  both  sides  of  the 
cape,  riiey  followed  the  windings  of  the  rough  ice 
outside  the  beach.  They  examined  the  base  of  the 
lofty  Cliffs  which  stretch  away  northward  from  the 
cape.  Not  a  single  vestige  of  the  lost  navigator  could 
anywhere  be  discovered. 

Captain  Kennedy  now  determined  immediately  to 
return  to  the  ship.  He  pushed  directly  across  North 
Somerset  toward  Batty  Bay,  intending  to  follow  the 
coast  to  Whaler  Point.  This  route  was  double  the 
distance  of  the  one  already  followed ;  but  it  was 
hoped  that  perhaps  it  might  lead  to  some  desiraldo 
results.  On  the  first  day  they  encampe-l  :;bout  mid- 
way between  Cape  Walker  and  Liines>i(  ,"  Island. 
They  passed  by  Cunningham  Inlet,  Cape  Gilford,  and 
Cape  Kennel.  At  Cape  McClintock  they  found  the 
small  store  of  provisiuiis  which  Sir  John  Ross  had 
left  theiG  in  isij.  On  the  15th  of  May  they  reached 
Whaler  Point.  On  the  27th,  they  left  Whaler  Point, 
to  return  directly  to  the  Prince  Albert,  and  on  the 
3Uth  their  laud  journey  ended  by  their  safe  arrival  at 
the  vessel. 

Various  preparations  for  their  departure  now  occu- 
pied the  attention  of  the  seamen.  On  the  2l8t  of  July, 
liiese  were  completed ;  but  they  found  it  impossible 
to  move  the  snip.  The  ice  had  congealed  tinnly 
around  her.  Tlie  only  possibility  of  releasing  lier 
was  by  sawing  a  canal  tiirough  the  ice  which  still  ob- 
structed the  bay.  After  the  hard  labor  of  a  week,  a 
canal  half  a  miie  in  leugtli,  and  sutUcieuily  wide  to 


I' 


If  WlW' 


472 


PUOOUJSS    op-  ARCTIC    DISroVKIIY. 


permit  tho  vessol  to  pass  was  cut;  thron^li.  Tin's  chan- 
nel was  then  cleared  of  tlie  ice  by  the  use  of  Cope- 
land's  blasting  cylinders. 

On  the  Oth  of  August  Captain  Kennedy  and  his 
crew  joyfully  bade  farewell  to  Batty  Bay,  where  tho 
Prince  Albert  had  remained  three  hundred  and 
thirty  days.  In  Elwin  Bay  they  were  detained  a 
whole  week  by  the  compact  masses  of  ice  which  still 
obstructed  the  sea.  On  the  17th,  tho  ice  suddenly 
cleared  away,  and  they  then  steered  for  Bcechey  Island. 
At  this  point  they  met  the  "  North  Star,"  from  Eng- 
land, commanded  by  Captain  Pullen,  which  had  been 
despatched  by  the  British  Admiralty,  to  pursue  the 
search  after  Sir  John  Franklin. 

Having  completed  the  object  of  tho  expedition,  as 
far  as  had  been  in  his  power,  though  without  any 
very  satisfactory  results.  Captain  Kennedy  on  the 
24th  of  August  bore  away  for  England,  leaving  the 
North  Star  preparing  to  winter  at  Beechey  Island,  and 
carrying  with  him  the  latest  dispatches  for  the  Ad- 
miralty from  Commander  Pullen.  He  wished  to 
touch  on  his  voyage  at  Navy  Board  Inlet,  hopin^j  to 
bo  able  to  ascertain  the  state  of  the  stores  which  had 
been  placed  tliere.  Two  unsuccessful  attempts  to  ac- 
complish this  purpose  wt^ro  defeated,  and  Captain 
Kennedy  was  then  compelled  by  stress  of  weather,  to 
relinquish  that  design.  On  the  21st  of  September 
the  Prince  Albert  reached  Cape  Farewell ;  and  on 
the  7th  of  October,  sho  anchored  in  Aberdeen  Har- 
bor. Six  weeks  had  elapsed  since  tho  commence- 
ment of  her  homeward-bound  vovago.  The  entire 
expedition  had  occupied  the  period  altogether  of  fif- 
teen months.  During  their  winter  stay  at  Whaler 
Point,  many  of  the  men  had  traveled  two  thousand 
miles  in  excursions  in  various  directions.  Tho  expe- 
dition settled  the  point,  that  Sir  John  Franklin  could 
not  have  advanced  by  Cape  Walker,  but  had  taken  tho 
portheru  route  through  Queen  Channel  and  Penny 
Strait ;  and  that  traces  of  his   fate  could  alone  be 


i  Wl 


as 


lence- 

mtire 

)f  lif. 

[lialer 

isand 

lexpe- 

Icould 

511  the 

jenny 

^6  be 


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m 


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j  :r 


DR.   rank's  KXPF-DITIOIC. 


473 


found  from  the  wcstwnrrl  or  "Rolinnaf's  Straif;^.  Tot 
there  too,  otlicr  re8earc]»c*>«,  0(|nnlly  Hnijacions,  jxtsc- 
verino^  aiul  tlioron<;h,  liavo  all  unt'urtiiiuitcly  proved 
equally  iinsucceiisnil ! 

Akctic  Expr.oRATToNfl;  TiiK  aiTOND  Okinnkm.   Exim;- 

DITION  IN  SKAKCH  OK  SiK  JolIN  FuANKLIN  IN   IH.'i.'J,  '.Vf, 
*55,  BY  Dk.  E.  K.  KaNK,    in   Tllli    JiUIG  ''  AnVANCK." 

In  December,  1852,  Dr.  Kane  received  his  orders 
from  the  Navv  Dej/artment  at  AVashin<;;ton,  to  con- 
duct an  expedition  into  the  Arctic  re;^ions  in  search 
of  thejijreatKn^lisli  navigator.  Thealiip  "  Advance," 
in  which  ho  had  formerly  Railed,  was  placed  under 
Ids  command.  ITo  immediat' ly  proceeded  to  select 
his  crew,  to  ecpiip  the  vessel,  and  to  make  the  otlnjr 
preparations  which  were  necessary.  His  ])ar! y  num- 
nered  seventeen  picked  men,  all  of  whom  had  volun- 
teered to  try  with  him  the  perilous  vicissitudes  of 
his  darinf^  venture.  The  brig  sailed  i'vom  the  port 
of  Now  I'ork,  on  tho  30th  of  May,  1853;  and  in 
eighteen  days  arrived  at  St.  Joh  s,  New  Foundlaiid. 
After  providing  themselves  at  this  place  with  au  ad- 
ditional stock  of  fresh  meat,  and  a  valuable  team  of 
Newfoundland  dogs,  thoy  steered  for  tlio  coast  of 
Greenland. 

The  avowed  purpose  of  this  second  Arctic  journey 
of  Dr.  Kane  was,  to  explore  what  ho  believed  to  be 
the  probable  extension  of  the  northern  promontory  of 
the  poninsul;  of  Greenland,  lie  also  thought  that 
the  extreme  northern  headland  of  this  fvozen  region 
undoubtedly  contained  and  vs  >uld  exhibit  traces  of 
the  lost  navigators.  11^  supposed  that  the  chain  of 
the  great  land-masses  of  Greenland  miglt  extend  very 
far  toward  the  North  Pole;  that  Sir  .John  Franklin 
might  also  have  been  attriuted  by  this  theory,  and 
might  have  pursued  this  route;  and  that  by  u 
thorough  search  in  tli.it  direction,  tiie  utmost  limits 
of  which  had  not  yet  been  invaded  or  explored  by  liia 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Sciences 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  «72-4503 


^<h 


^ 


A 


\ 


474 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


bold  and  adventurous  predecessors,  some  light  miwht 
not  only  be  obtained  to  solve  the  great  enigma  which 
still  engrossed  the  wonder  of  men,  but  also  new  and 
independent  discoveries  might  be  made  in  that  un- 
known region. 

On  the  1st  of  July  Dr.  Kane  entered  the  harbor 
of  Fiskernoes,  oneof  the  Danish  settlements  of  Green- 
land.    This  obscure   and   lonely  community  is   sup- 
ported by  their  trade  in  codtish.    The  strangers  were 
received  with  simple  hospitality  by  Mr.  Lazzen,  the 
superintendent  of  tile  colony.    Some  fresh  provisions 
were  here  also  obtained,  and  an  Esquimaux  hunter  of 
superior  skill  was  enlisted  in  the  service  of  the  party. 
Proceeding  on  from  this  point,  the  other  Danish 
settlements  of  Greenland  were  successively  visited — 
Lichtenfels,  Sukkertoppen,  Proven,  U"pernavick,at  the 
last  of  which  places  the  iirst  Grinnell  expedition  of 
1851  had  rested  after  its  winter  drift.     At  length  they 
reached  Yotlik,  the  most  northern  point  in  Greenland 
inhabited  by  human  beings.     Beyond  this  the  coast 
may  be  regarded  as  having  been  until  that  period, 
unexplored.     From  Yotlik,  Dr.  Kane   steered  north- 
ward  toward  Bafiia's  Islands,  which  he  found  then 
clear  of  ice ;  and  passing  by  Duck  Island,  bore  away 
for  Wilcox  Point.     As  he  approached  Melville  Bay 
he  was   enveloped  in  a  thick   i'og,  during  the  preva- 
lence of  which  he  drifted  among  the  icebergs.     Af- 
ter a  hard  day's  work  with  the  boats,  they  towed  the 
brig  away   from    these    unpleasant   and   dangerous 
neighbors.     He  then  determined  to  stand  westward, 
and  double  Melville  Bay  by  an  outside  passage,  un- 
less prevented  and  intercepted  by  the  pack.     In  exe- 
cuting this  purpose  he  concluded,  in  order  to  avoid 
the   drifting  Hoes,  to  anchor  to  an  ice-berg.     Eigiit 
hours  were  spent  in  the  severe  labor  of  wai  pi ng,  heav- 
ing, and  planting  the  anchors.     But  scarcely  iiad  this 
tasK  been  linishcd,  when  tiie  attention  of  the  crew  v;as 
attracted  by  aloud  crackling  sound  aloft.     ISmall  frag- 
ments of  ice  began  to  descend.    The  ship  became  in 


harbor 
Green- 
is  3up- 
!rs  were 
sen,  the 
ovisions 
inter  of 
e  party. 
Danish 
risited — 
;k,atthe 
iition  of 
gth  they 
reenland 
the  coast 
,t  period, 
id  north- 
uid  then 
)re  away 
ille  Bay 
e  preva- 
gs.     Af- 
3 wed  the 
aiigcrous 


DR.  KANe's  expedition. 


475 


imminent  peril  from  the  falling  fragments  of  tlie  dis- 
solving mountain.  Scarcely  had  she  cast  off  from 
the  ice-berg,  when  the  face  of  it  descended  in  ruins 
upon  the  sea,  crashing  and  roaring  with  a  thunder 
not  unlike  that  of  artillery. 

On  the  5  th  of  August  they  passed  the  "Crimson 
Cliifa,"  so  called,  from  tlie  appearance  usually  pre- 
sented by  their  snow-clad  summits.    Next  day  they 
reached  Hakluyt  Island ;  which  is  surmounted  by  a 
tall  spire  springing  six  hundred  feet  into  the  heavens 
above  the  level  of  the  water.     They  soon  passed  Capes 
Alexander   and  Isabella,  and  thus   entered  Smith's 
Sound.     Uaving  reached  Littleton  Island,  Dr.  Kane 
determined  to  deposit  here  a  supply  of  provisions, 
and  some  permanent  traces  of  his  route,  to  be  used 
in   case  it  should  be  necessary  afterward  to  send  an 
exploring  party  to  discover  the  fate  of  his  own.     The 
life-boat  was  accordingly  buried  here,  containing  a 
supply  of  pemmican,  blankets,  and  India  rubber  cloth. 
They  endeavored  to  fortify  the  precious  deposit  from 
the  claws  of  the  Polar  bear.     And  here  on  this  lone- 
ly spot,  the  party  were  surprised  to  find  the  traces  of 
Esquimaux  life.     The  ruins  of  stone  huts,  and  even 
the  frozen  corpses  of  the  dead  were  discovered ;  and 
so  singular  had  been  the  action  of  the  intense  cold 
upon  the  dead  bodies,  that  though  they  had  probably 
occupied  their  cheerless  homes  for  a  century,  they 
were  still  not  decomposed. 

The   20th  of 
gallant  crew 

dened  waters  of  Smith's  Sound.  At  this  date  they  en- 
countered a  storm  of  extraordinary  fury ;  and  made 
one  of  those  narrow  escapes  from  destruction,  which 
sometimes  give  an  air  more  of  romance  than  of  reali- 
ty to  the  adventures  of  Arctic  explorers.  In  a  terrific 
gale  their  three  hawsers  were  broken,  and  the  brig 
drifted  with  fearful  rapidity  under  the  furious  press- 
ure of  the  storm.  Only  by  the  utmost  heroism  and 
skill  was  the  Advance  kept  from  being  dashed  to 
30  T* 


August  still  found  the  brig  and  her 
navigating  the   dangerous  and   ice-la- 


4- 


!;i 


!M 


I 


476 


PROGRESS  OP  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


pieces  against  the  mountains  of  ice  which  tossed, 
rolled,  and  surged  around  her  in  the  deep.  Tlie 
greatest  danger  of  all  was  after  the  storm  had  partly 
lulled,  when  the  bergs  continued  to  thump  against 
the  floe-ice ;  and  the  certainty  of  being  crushed  be- 
tween the  two,  stared  the  voyagers  in  the  face.  A 
sudden  means  of  escape  presented  itself,  and  with  ad- 
mirable dexterity  and  promptitude  the  crew  availed 
themselves  of  it.  A  low,  water- washed  berg  at  that 
moment  came  driving  along  past  the  Advance.  An 
anchor  was  instantly  planted  in  its  side  and  held  fast 
by  a  whale  line.  Carried  along  with  fearful  rapidi- 
ty by  this  gigantic  tow-horse,  the  little  brig  was 
drifted  out  of  danger,  and  once  more  escaped  the  im- 
pending ruin.  She  had  a  close  shave  of  it  neverthe- 
less, and  would  have  lost  her  port  quarter-boat  had 
it  not  been  taken  in  from  the  davits. 

The  navigators  con^'nued  their  northern  route  by 
tracking  along  the  ice-belt  which  hugs  the  frozen 
shore.  On  the  23d  of  August  they  had  reached  78° 
41'  north  latitude.  This  placed  them  further  north 
than  any  of  their  predecessors  had  been,  except  Cap- 
tain Parry.  During  the  progress  of  the  journey,  the 
whole  coast  had  been  inspected  carefully ;  yet  no 
traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin  had  been  discovered.  On 
the  28th  of  August  Dr.  Kane  determined  to  send  out 
an  expedition  from  the  vessel  to  make  further  search, 
as  the  condition  of  the  ice  prevented  the  Advance 
from  being  brought  near  to  the  shore.  The  whale- 
boat  was  chosen  lor  this  adventure.  They  took  with 
them  a  sledge  and  a  supply  of  pemmican.  The  par- 
ty consisted  of  seven  persons  selected  from  the  crew. 
The  vessel  was  placed  under  the  temporary  control 
of  Mr.  Ohlsen.  The  adventurers  were  provided  with 
butialo  robes,  and  other  necessary  means  of  protec- 
tion against  the  extreme  cold.  Their  progress  how- 
ever was  slow,  not  making  more  than  seven  miles  per 
day,  in  consequence  of  the  obstructions  of  the  ice 
along  the  shore.    Very  soon  they  were  compelled  to 


^tejoj 


DR.  KANE's  expedition. 


477 


abandon  the  boat,  and  employ  their  sledge.  The  ab- 
rupt nature  of  the  ground  over  which  they  traveled 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fact,  that  frequently  they 
were  constrained  to  carry  the  sledge  on  their  shoul- 
ders over  precipices  and  gorges  in  the  ice,  and  over 
high  and  perpendicular  knolls  of  snow. 

In  this  trip  the  travelers  found  many  skeletons  of 
the  reindeer.  Dr.  Kane  ascertained  by  scientific  ob- 
servation, that  the  mean  elevation  of  this  part  of  the 
coast  of  Greenland  was  thirteen  hundred  feet.  After 
five  days'  laborious  travel,  he  was  but  forty  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  brig.  Here  he  determined  to  leave  the 
sledge  behind  and  proceed  on  foot.  On  the  5th  of 
September  they  discovered  a  bay  much  larger  than 
any  other  previously  known  to  extend  from  Smith's 
Straits.  It  was  fed  by  a  large  river  whicli  poured  a 
flood  of  tumultuous  waters  into  it  from  the  interior 
of  North  Greenland.  It  was  fully  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth.  The  gallant  navigators 
gave  it  the  name  of  Mary  Minturn  Kiver,  after  the 
sister  of  Mrs.  II.  Grinnell.  This  river  was  traced  for 
forty  miles  toward  its  mouth ;  and  its  origin  was  found 
to  be  derived  from  the  melting  snows  of  the  interior 
glaciers. 

From  his  researches  in  this  region.  Dr.  Kane  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  this  coast  of  Greenland  faced 
to  the  north.  His  longitude  here  was  78°  41'  west. 
After  sixteen  miles  of  foot  journey  the  company 
reached  a  great  headland  to  which  they  gave  the 
name  of  Thackeray.  Eight  miles  further  on,  a 
similar  eminence  attracted  their  attention ;  to  which 
they  applied  the  epithet  of  Hawkes.  The  table-lands 
here  were  twelve  hundred  feet  high.  The  party  con- 
tinued their  difficult  and  dangerous  journey  until  they 
reached  some  lofty  headlands,  where  they  determined 
to  terminate  their  excursion.  These  reached  an  alti- 
tude of  eleven  hundred  feet,  and  overlooked  an  ex- 
panse extending  beyond  the  eighteenth  parallel  of 
latitude.    The  view  from  this  elevation  was  maiked 


s   • 


I   * 


|:i: 


^ii'if 


1 

1    ■ 


,1   •' 
l'   i 


478 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


by  every  element  of  gloomy  and  cheerless  magnifi- 
cence. On  the  left,  the  western  shore  of  the  sound 
stretched  away  toward  the  northern  pole.  To  the 
right  a  rugged  and  rolling  country  appeared,  which 
ended  in  the  Great  Plumboldt  Glacier.  Toward  the 
north-east  the  projecting  headland  called  Cape  An- 
drew Jackson,  appeared;  and  the  vast  area  between 
was  a  sea  of  solid  ice.  Farther  still,  a  stream  of  ice- 
bergs presented  their  rugged  and  unseemly  bulks  to 
the  eye  of  the  observer. 

Having  carefully  examined  the  whole  country  as 
far  as  his  glasses  would  reach.  Dr.  Kane  determined 
to  return  to  the  Advance.  Winter  was  now  rapidly 
approaching,  and  it  was  necessary  to  select  Some  ap- 
propriate spot  in  which  the  crew  and  the  vessel  might 
pass  its  long,  gloomy,  and  dangerous  interval.  For 
various  reasons  which  need  not  here  be  detailed,  Dr. 
Kane  resolved  to  remain  where  he  then  was.  He 
had  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  Rensselaer  Harbor 
would  be  the  most  desirable  winter  quarters ;  and  on 
the  10th  of  September  they  commenced  the  labors 
necessary  to  render  their  position  tenable  and  safe. 
They  removed  the  contents  of  the  hold  of  the  vessel 
to  a  store-house  which  they  prepared  on  Butter  Island. 
A  deck-house  was  built  on  the  vessel,  in  which  the 
different  qualities  of  ventilation,  warmth,  dryness, 
room,  and  comfort,  were  sought  to  the  utmost  possi- 
ble extent.  A  site  for  the  observatory  was  selected. 
Stones  were  haufed  over  the  ice  on  sledges  for  its  erec- 
tion. Its  location  was  on  a  rocky  inlet  about  a  hun- 
dred yards  from  the  vessel,  which  they  named  Fern 
Kock.  Preparations  were  also  made,  preparatory  to 
the  work  of  establishing  provision  depots  on  the  coast 
of  Greenland.  The  advantage  of  these  provision  de- 
pots will  appear  from  the  fact  that  by  their  assistance, 
expeditions  of  search  could  afterward  be  conducted 
with  the  use  of  sledges  and  dogs.  The  provisions  for 
the  latter,  if  taken  on  the  journeys  themselves,  form 
60  heavy  a  load  as  seriously  to  embarrass  the  move- 


y 

t       H 


DR.  KANE  S  EXPEDITION. 


479 


ments  of  the  travelers.  But  when  they  were  released 
from  this  labor,  these  dogs  conveyed  the  sledges  and 
their  occupants  on  long  journeys  successfully,  and 
with  great  rapidity  on  their  tours  of  examination. 

On  the  20th  of  September  the  first  party  organized 
to  establish  provision  depots  was  sent  out.  It  consist- 
ed of  seven  men.  A  sledge  thirteen  feet  in  length, 
called  the  '*  Faith,"  was  filled  with  pemmican,  and 
was  drawn  by  those  attached  to  it,  by  means  of  track- 
ropes  termed  rue-raddies,  which  were  passed  around 
the  shoulder  and  under  the  arms.  The  intended  lo- 
cation of  this  depot  was  sixty  miles  from  the  brig,  on 
the  Greenland  coast.  As  the  bold  and  hardy  adven- 
turers started  forth,  they  were  saluted  with  three 
liearty  cheers  by  their  comrades  who  remained  with 
the  vessel. 

The  life  of  the  party  which  remained  in  the  vessel 
was  not  devoid  of  incident  and  interest.  They  made 
a  desperate  attempt  to  smoke  out  the  rats  with  which 
they  were  infested.  To  accomplish  this  purpose,  a 
quantity  of  charcoal  was  burnt,  after  the  hatches  had 
been  shut  down,  and  every  visible  crevice  had  been 
stopped.  A  large  quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas  was 
then  generated,  and  the  crew  spen^:  one  night  on  deck 
in  order  to  give  the  rats  fair  play.  One  or  two  of  the 
seamen  made  a  narrow  escape  from  suflbcation,  by 
venturing  during  the  night  into  the  fumigated  por- 
tion of  the  ship.  They  were  also  assailed  by  another 
peril.  A  barrel  of  charcoal  by  some  means  became 
ignited,  which  had  been  left  in  the  carpenter's  room 
at  some  distance  from  the  stove.  After  some  labor 
and  more  anxiety,  the  fire  was  suppressed  before  any 
very  serious  damage  had  been  done  to  the  vessel.  The 
corpses  of  twenty-eight  defunct  rats,  of  all  sizes,  ages, 
and  sexes,  became  the  next  day  the  trophies  of  the 
successful  attack  of  the  crew  upon  their  foes. 

By  the  10th  of  October  the  party  which  had  been 
sent  to  establish  the  first  depot  of  provisions,  had 
been  absent  twenty  days;  and  thei'  return  was  anx- 


'  J\ 


.  iiii 


I' 


i:\.   .   <,' 


480 


PROORE       OF  ARCViO  DISCOVERT. 


iously  expected.     Dr.  Kane  at  length  determined  to 
start  out  in  search  of  them.     He  traveled  with  one 
companion  on  a  sledge  drawn  by  four  Newfoundland 
dogs.     He  averaged  twenty  miles  per  day  with  this 
singular  team.     On  the  15th,  several  hours  before  sun- 
rise, he  perceived  on  the  distant  and  snowy  waste,  a 
dark  object  which  seemed  to  move.     It  proved  to  be 
the  returning  depot-party.    They  had  traveled  at  the 
rate  of  eighteen  miles  per  day,  and  had  been  twenty- 
eight  days   engaged  in  their   laborious   expedition. 
Some  of  their  limbs  had  been  frozen,  and  they  had  met 
with  other  mishaps,  though  none  were  of  a  very  seri- 
ous nature,  and  they  had  accomplished  the  purpose 
fur  which   they  had  been  sent  out.     The  greeting 
which  ensued  on  their  return  to  the  ship,  was  hearty 
on  both  sides.    They  had  made  the  iirst  deposit  of 
provision  at  Cape  Russell.    Thirty  miles  further  on, 
they  left  about  a  hundred  and  ten  pounds  of  pemmi- 
can   and  beef,  about  thirty  pounds  of  a  mixture  of 
pemmican   and  meal,  and  a  bag  of  bread.     On  the 
10th  of  October  they  made   their  third  and  last  de- 
posit on  an  island  called  James  McGary,  after  the 
second  officer  of  the  expedition.     Here  they  erected 
a  cairn,  and  buried  six  hundred  and  seventy  pounds 
of  pemmican,  and  forty  of  meat,  biscuit,  with  other 
items,  making  in  all  eight  iiundred  pounds.     One  in- 
cident which  occurred  during  their  journey,  illustrates 
very  clearly  some  of  the  perils  which  attend  Arctic 
travel.     The  company  had  pitched  their  tent  for  the 
night  and  had  retired  to  rest.      It  was  about  mid- 
night.    They  had  been  lulled  to  slumber  by  the  grand 
monotonous  thundering  of  the  neighboring  glaciers. 
Suddenly  the  floe  on   which  the  tent  was  placed, 
cracked  with  a  stupendous  report  directly  beneath 
them.     The  sleeping  party  needed  no  further  prompt- 
ings to  bestir  themselves.     Repeated  reports  around 
them  gave   evidence  that  the   ice  was  breaking  up. 
The  sledge  was  immediately  placed  upon  a  detached 
piece  of  ice,  and  rowed  and  paddled  to  one  of  the 


mmf 


•irilHlAda 


■HiMWia 


DR.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


481 


In rnicr  fields  M-liich  remained  attaohed  to  tlic  borcrfl. 
IUm'c  they  ol)tained  Raf'ety  until  the  niorniiiij:,  wlien 
they  quickly  removed  from  their  daiiiiierous  jjosition. 
Tliey  eventually  returned  in  safety  tu  tlie  brig. 

By  the  7th  of  November,  1853,  the  darkness  of  an 
Arctic  winter  began  to  settle  down  upon  them.  It 
was  necessary  to  keep  the  lamps  lit  constantly.  They 
had  the  comfortable  prospect  of  ninety  days  of  dark- 
ness yet  to  come.  It  was  natural  that  the  Umely  ad- 
venturers should  begin  to  devise  some  means  of 
amusement,  by  which  they  might  beguile  tiie  cheer- 
less monotony  of  tlieir  existence.  A  fancy  ball  was 
projected,  and  an  Arctic  journal  bearing  the  appro- 
priate title  of  "The  Ice  Blink,"  was  commenced. 
Thus  the  slow  and  tedious  days  and  nights  of  their 
winter  sojourn  wore  on.  In  spite  of  the  intense  cold, 
Dr.  Kane  continued  to  make  his  magnetic  observa- 
tions in  the  observatory.  AVlien  the  thermometer 
stood  at  forty-nine  degrees  below  zero,  and  even  at 
sixty-four  degrees  below  zero,  he  still  elfected  his  as- 
tronomical investigations  and  calculations. 

On  the  21st  of  January  the  Urst  traces  of  the  re- 
turning light  became  visible.  Its  approach  was  in- 
dicated by  a  beauteous  orange  tint,  which  flushed  the 
distant  southern  horizon.  But  still,  the  darkness 
seemed  to  be  eternal  and  unvarying.  The  continued 
absence  of  light  appeared  to  affect  the  health  of  the 
party,  as  much  as  the  excessive  rigor  of  the  cold. 
By  the  21st  of  February  the  sun's  rays  became  clearly 
visible,  and  when  March  arrived,  it  brought  with  it 
the  almost  perpetual  day  which  alternately  takes  the 
place  in  the  Arctic  realms  of  almost  perpetual  night. 
During  the  winter,  nine  noble  Newfoundland,  and 
thirty-tive  Esquimaux  dogs,  which  were  of  the  ut- 
most value,  had  perished.  Six  only  remained  out 
ot  the  whole  number  which  had  been  taken  at  the 
commencement  of  the  expedition ;  and  these  were 
now  their  only  reliance  in  their  future  operations. 

By  the  18th  of  March  the  spring  tides  began  to 


R 


I  ( 


I    I 


'1.     I 


fl 


482 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


break  and  move  the  massive  ice  which  still  hound  the 
Arctic  Sea.  The  ice  commenced  to  ^rind  and  crush  • 
the  water  to  dash  to  and  fro ;  and  the  vessel  to  rise 
and  descend  in  a  range  of  seventeen  feet  per  day. 
On  the  20th  a  depot-party  was  sent  ont,  preparatoiy 
to  the  commencement  of  the  operations  of  tlie  sum- 
mer. Those  who  remained  in  the  ship  commenced 
to  clean  it,  to  take  down  the  forward  bulwarks  and  to 
clear  the  decks.  The  necessary  preparations  for  in- 
land trips  and  researches  were  made  ;  sledges  and 
accoutrements  were  contrived,  and  moccasins  were 
fabricated.  While  these  labors  occupied  their  atten- 
tion, a  portion  of  the  depot  party  suddenly  reap- 
peared at  the  vessel.  They  brought  back  a  terrible 
report.  They  had  left  four  of  their  number  lying  on 
the  ice  frozen  and  disabled,  and  they  had  returned  a 
great  distance  to  obtain  instant  relief. 

Not  a  moment  was  to  be  lost.  Ohlsen,  the  only 
one  of  the  returned  party  who  seemed  able  to  give 
any  information,  was  wrapped  up  in  buffalo  robes  and 
placed  upon  a  sledge.  !Nine  men  started  out  to  the 
rescue.  The  cold  was  intense,  ranging  seventy-eight 
degrees  below  the  freezing  point.  The  instant  the 
party  ceased  to  move  they  would  have  been  frozen  to 
death.  Violent  exercise  alone  kept  them  alive. 
When  they  ventured  to  apply  snow  to  their  lips  to 
slake  their  thirst,  it  burnt  like  caustic,  and  blood  im- 
mediately followed.  Some  of  the  men  were  seized 
with  trembling  fits,  and  some  with  attacks  of  short 
breath.  Dr.  Xane  himself,  fainted  twice  upon  the 
snow  under  the  intense  cold. 

After  a  laborious  and  dangerous  journey  of  twenty- 
one  hours,  the  lost  party  were  discovered.  They  were 
nearly  forty  miles  distant  from  the  brig.  Their  con- 
dition was  perilous  in  the  extreme ;  and  the  succor 
did  not  come  a  moment  too  soon.  But  the  rescuers 
were  scarcely  better  off  than  the  rescued.  They  were 
compelled  to  drag  a  load  of  nine  hundred  pounds 
upon  the  sledge ;  and  during  their  return  trip  the 


DR.  RANK  8   EXPEDITION. 


483 


whole  party  were  in  imniinont  dano^or  of  boinfj  frozen 
to  (loatli.  Tlioy  could  with  tlio  utmost  difHculty  resist 
the  disposition  to  sleej),  wnich  wouhl  have  ininiediute- 
ly  sealed  their  fate.  After  a  fearful  journey  of  sev- 
eral days  the  party  repjained  the  hri<ij;  hut  the  suffer- 
ings of  that  terrible  occasion  were  almost  beyond  the 
power  of  imagination.  They  had  traveled  about 
ninety  miles ;  and  most  of  the  men  had  become  tem- 
porarily delirious ;  nearly  all  were  frozen  in  some 
portions  of  their  bodies ;  and  two  of  them  ultimately 
died  in  consequence  of  their  exposure. 

On  the  2Tth  of  April,  the  time  having  arrived  to  con- 
tinue his  researches  both  after  Sir  John  Franklin  and 
in  Arctic  discovery,  Dr.  Kane  determined  to  resume 
his  expeditions.  He  resolved  now  to  follow  the  ice- 
belt  to  the  Great  Glacier  of  Humboldt,  and  thence  to 
stretch  along  the  face  of  the  glacier,  toward  the  west 
of  north,  and  make  an  attempt  to  cross  the  ice  to  the 
American  side  of  the  channel.  The  object  of  this 
bold  venture  was  to  attain  the  utmost  limit  of  the 
shore  of  Greenland  ;  to  measure  the  waste  which  ex- 
tended between  it  and  the  unknown  west ;  and  thua 
to  reveal,  if  possible,  some  of  the  mysteries  which 
surrounded  the  North  Pole.  The  journey  was  imme- 
diately commenced.  After  many  adventures  and 
suflerings  which  we  will  not  describe,  the  Great  Gla- 
cier of  Humboldt  was  reached.  A  more  magnificent 
object  than  this  does  not  exist  on  the  globe.  It  pre- 
sents a  shining  wall  of  ice  300  feet  in  height,  frown- 
ing over  the  frozen  sea  below,  and  extends  unbroken 
for  sixty  miles.  It  is  the  great  crystal  bridge  which 
has  for  ages  connected  together  the  two  continents  of 
America  and  Greenland,  and  it  extends  from  the  sea 
toward  the    interior,  through    vast   and    unknown 


regions. 


Dr.  Kane  now  determined  to  organize  a  double 
party,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  a  channel  or  any 
form  of  outlet  existed  to  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  coast  of  Greenland.    He  was  convinced  of  the 


i 


484 


PROORK88  0^  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


im 


exiatonco  of  fluch  a  channel  from  the  movcmentfl  of 
the  ico  ber^fl ;  from  the  ])hysical  cluiracter  of  the 
tides  ;  as  well  as  from  certain  and  uniform  analogies 
of  physical  p;eo^raphy. 

On  the  3d  of  Juno  one  of  the  parties  of  explora- 
tion set  out  from  the  hrig.  They  liad  a  large  sledge 
thirteen  feet  long.  They  aimed  directly  for  the  gla- 
cier-barrier on  the  Greenland  side.  Their  orders  were 
to  attempt  to  scale  the  ice  and  examine  the  interior 
of  the  great  mer-de-glace. 

On  the  27th  of  June  one  of  the  parties,  directed  by 
McGarry  and  Bonsall,  returned  to  the  brig.  Several 
of  them  had  become  nearly  blind.  After  twelve 
days'  travel  they  had  reached  the  Great  Glacier. 
They  found  the  depot  of  provisions,  which  had  been 
deposited  the  previous  season,  destroyed  by  the 
bears.  These  brutes  had  broken  open  the  tin  cases 
in  which  the  pemmican  had  been  deposited.  An  al- 
coliol  cask  strongly  bound  in  iron  was  dashed  into 
fragments ;  and  a  tin  liquor  can  was  mashed  and 
twisted  into  a  ball.  This  party  of  explorers  had 
found  it  impossible  to  scale  the  Great  Glacier,  and 
returned  to  the  brig  without  having  effected  any  re- 
sults of  importance. 

The  other  party,  which  had  been  placed  under  the 
guidance  of  Mr.  Morton,  left  the  vessel  on  the  4th  of 
June.  On  the  15th  they  reached  the  foot  of  the 
Great  Glacier.  They  steered  northward,  keeping 
parallel  with  the  glacier,  and  from  five  to  seven  miles 
distant  from  it.  The  thickness  of  the  ice  over  which 
they  journeyed  was  found  to  be  seven  feet  five 
inches.  They  traveled  frequently  with  the  snow  up 
to  their  knees.  When  they  had  reached  Peabody 
Bay  they  encountered  the  bergs,  whose  surface  was 
fresh  and  glassy.  Some  of  these  were  rectangular 
in  shape  and  some  were  square  ;  and  their  length  va- 
ried from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  a  mile.  The  task  of 
traveling  over  these  bergs  was  full  of  difficulty  and 


I 


DR.  KANe's  expedition. 


485 


danger.  At  len<]jtli  they  made  tlioir  way  through 
them  to  tho  smoother  ice  wliieli  hiy  hcyond. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  luivin^  encain|)CMl,  Morton  afl- 
cended  a  high  berg,  in  order  to  examine  their  future 
route  and  survey  the  surrounding  dcsohition.  From 
this  point  he  beheld  an  extensive  plain  which  stretched 
away  toward  the  north,  which  proved  to  bo  tlie  Great 
Glacier  of  Humboldt,  as  it  appeared  toward  the  in- 
terior, which  also  fronted  on  the  bay.  From  tliis 
point  the  advance  of  the  party  was  ])f3rilou8.  They 
were  freqjuently  arrested  by  wide  and  deep  fissures  in 
the  ice.  This  difficulty  compelled  tliem  to  turn  to- 
ward the  west.  Some  of  these  chasms  were  four  feet 
wide,  and  contained  water  at  tlie  bottom.  From  this 
point  they  beheld  the  distant  northern  shore,  termed 
the  "  "West  Land."  Its  appearance  was  mountainous 
and  rolling.  Its  distance  from  them  seemed  to  be 
about  sixty  miles. 

At  length,  by  the  21st  of  June,  the  party  reached 
a  point  opposite  the  termination  of  the  Great  Glacier. 
It  appeared  to  be  mixed  with  earth  and  rocks.  Trav- 
eling on,  they  reached  at  length  the  head  of  Kennedy 
channel,  and  saw  beyond  that  the  open  water.  Passing 
in  their  route  a  cape,  they  called  it  Cape  Andrew  Jack- 
son. Here  they  found  good  smooth  ice ;  for  during 
the  last  few  days  they  had  passed  over  rotten  ice, 
which  not  unfrequently  threatened  to  break  beneath 
them.  Having  entered  the  curve  of  a  bay,  they 
named  it  after  Robert  Morris,  the  great  financier  of 
the  revolution.  On  the  smooth  ice  in  this  vicinity  the 
party  advanced  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  per  hour. 

Kennedy  Channel  here  grew  narrower,  l)ut  after- 
ward it  widened  again.  Broken  ice  in  large  masses 
was  floating  in  it ;  but  there  were  passages  lifteen 
miles  in  width,  which  remained  perfectly  clear.  Six 
miles  inward  from  the  channel,  mountains  rose  to  the 
view.  On  the  22d  of  June  they  encamped,  after  hav- 
ing traveled  forty-eight  miles  in  a  direct  line.  They 
were  still  upon  the  shores  of  the  channel.     They  could 


ii 


4:86 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


\m 


plainly  s^  *^he  opposite  shore,  which  appeared  pre- 
cipitous, d  surmounted  with  sugar-loaf  shaped 
mountains.  At  this  part  of  their  journey  they  en- 
countered a  Polar  bear,  with  her  cub.  A  desperate 
fight  ensued,  in  which  the  singular  instincts  of  nature 
were  strikingly  illustrated,  by  the  desperate  eflbrts 
made  by  the  poor  brute  to  protect  her  helpless  oft- 
Bpring.  Both  were  slain,  A  shallow  bay  covered 
with  ICO  was  then  crossed.  They  passed  several  isl- 
ands which  lay  in  the  channel,  which  they  named 
after  Sir  John  Franklin  and  Captain  Crozier.  The 
clilis  which  here  constituted  the  shore  of  the  chan- 
nel were  very  high,  towering  at  least  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  its  surface.  The  party  attempted  to 
ascend  these  cliffs ;  but  found  it  impossible  to  mount 
more  than  a  few  hundred  feet.  On  the  highest  point 
which  they  attained,  a  walking  pole  was  fastened, 
with  the  Grinnell  flag  of  the  Antartic  attached  to  it ; 
and  thus  for  an  hour  and  a  half  this  standard  was  per- 
mitted to  wave  over  the  highest  northern  region  of 
the  earth  ever  attained  by  the  foot  of  man. 

They  here  encountered  a  cape,  and  the  party  de- 
sired to  pass  around  it,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether 
there  lay  any  unknown  land  beyond  it.  But  they 
found  it  impossible  to  advance.  This  then  was  the 
utmost  limit  and  termination  of  their  journey  toward 
the  pole.  Mr.  Morton  ascended  an  eminence  here, 
and  carefully  scrutinized  the  aspects  of  nature  all 
around  him.  Six  degrees  toward  the  west  of  north, 
he  observed  a  lofty  peak,  truncated  in  its  form,  and 
about  three  thousand  feet  in  height.  This  elevation 
is  named  Mount  Edward  Parry,  after  the  great  pio- 
neer of  Arctic  adventure ;  and  is  the  most  extreme 
northern  point  of  land  known  to  exist  upon  the  globe. 
From  the  position  which  Mr.  Morton  had  attained, 
he  beheld  toward  the  north,  from  an  elevation  of  four 
hundred  feet,  a  boundless  waste  of  waters  stretching 
away  toward  the  pole.  Not  a  particle  of  ice  encum- 
bered its  surface.    He  heard  the  dashina:  of  unfrozen 


DR.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


487 


waves,  and  beheld  a  rolling  surf  like  that  of  more 
genial  climes,  rushing  and  dashing  against  the  rocks 
upon  the  shore.  This  was  certainly  a  mysterious 
phenomenon.  Here  was  a  fluid  sea,  in  the  midst  of 
whole  continents  of  ice,  and  that  sea  seemed  to  wash 
the  Pole  itself.  The  eye  of  the  explorer  surveyed  at 
least  forty  miles  of  uninterrupted  water  in  a  northern 
direction.  The  point  thus  reached  in  this  exploring 
expedition,  was  about  five  hundred  miles  distant  from 
the  Pole.  Had  the  party  been  able  to  convey  thither 
a  boat,  they  might  have  embarked  upon  the  bright 
and  placid  waters  of  that  lonely  ocean.  But  having 
been  able  to  make  this  journey  only  with  the  sledge, 
further  explorations  were  of  course  impossible.  The 
most  remarkable  development  connected  with  these 
discoveries  was,  that  the  temperature  was  here  found 
to  be  much  more  moderate  than  it  was  further  south. 
Marine  birds  sailed  through  the  heavens.  Rippling 
waves  followed  each  other  on  the  surface  of  the  deep. 
A  few  stunted  flowers  grew  over  the  barren  and 
rocky  shore.  The  inference  which  may  be  drawn 
from  these  and  other  facts  is,  that  this  open  sea, 
termed  the  Polar  Basin,  stretches  to  the  Pole  itself, 
or  at  least  continues  a  great  distance  until  its  course 
is  interrupted  by  oAer  projections  of  the  terra  firma. 
These  are  mysterious  inquiries,  still  the  great  desid- 
erata of  Arctic  travel ;  which  will  remain  unanswered, 
until  some  more  successful  explorer,  gifted  with 
greater  physical  endurance,  if  any  such  can  be,  and 
furnished  with  ampler  and  more  abundant  facilities 
than  any  of  his  predecessors,  shall  persist  in  defiance 
of  every  impediment  in  advancing,  until  he  boldly 
plants  his  foot  upon  the  very  spot  now  termed  the 
North  Pole. 

The  several  parties  which  had  been  sent  forth  by 
Dr.  Kane,  to  explore  the  regions  just  described,  hav- 
ing returned,  the  seaeon  of  Arctic  travel  had  nearly 
terminated,  and  the  members  of  the  expedition  were 
about  to  relapse  into  winter  quarters,  with  their  usual 


7 


;i     I 


i      I 


<l 


11 


\h 


■ 


i        ^: 


wm 


488 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


darkness,  monotony,  and  gloom.  But  before  resign- 
ing themselves  entirely  to  this  unwelcome  seclusion. 
Dr.  Kane  resolved  to  make  an  effort  to  reach  Beechey 
Island.  At  this  point,  already  so  frequently  referred 
to  in  the  preceding  pages,  Sir  Edward  Belcher's 
squadron  was  then  supposed  to  be  stationed;  and 
from  them  the  American  explorers  might  obtain 
both  provisions  and  information.  Accordingly,  Dr. 
Kane  manned  his  boat,  called  the  "Forlorn  Hope," 
which  was  twenty-three  feet  long,  and  six  feet  and  a 
half  beam.  The  necessary  amount  of  provisions  were 
placed  on  board,  and  the  bold  venture  was  undertaken. 
Sometimes  the  boat  was  navigated  through  the  un- 
frozen channels  of  water,  which  intervened  between 
the  floes  of  ice ;  at  others  she  was  placed  on  a  large 
sledge  called  the  "  Faith,"  and  thus  transported  over 
the  frozen  wastes. 

This  party  approached  Littleton  Island,  which  had 
been  visited  by  Captain  Ingletield.  They  here  ob- 
tained a  vast  quantity  of  eider  ducks.  They  then 
passed  Flagstaff  Point  and  Combermere  Cape.  Then 
came  Cape  Isabella  and  Cape  Frederick  VII.  On 
the  23d  of  July  they  reached  Ilakluyt  Island;  and 
thence  they  steered  for  Cary  Islands.  But  on  the 
Sist  of  July,  when  they  had  reaiehed  a  point  but  ten 
miles  distant  from  Cape  Parry,  their  further  progress 
was  absolutely  stopped.  A  solid  mass  of  ice  lay  be- 
fore them  on  the  sea,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  This  barrier  was  composed  of  the  vast 
seas  of  ice  which  had  drifted  through  Jones'  Sound  on 
the  west,  and  those  of  Murchison's  on  the  east.  The 
adventurers  were  now  compelled  to  retrace  their 
way.  About  the  1st  of  August  they  regained  the 
brig,  without  having  met  with  any  accident,  but  also 
without  having  succeeded  in  attaining  the  object  of 
their  excursion.  They  found  the  "Advance"  just  as 
tightly  wedged  into  the  ice  as  it  had  been  during  the 
preceding  eleven  mouths,  with  no  hope  of  getting 
ner  released.    Two  important  questions  now  demand- 


tUtgUm-trntmimiB 


^i 


the 

also 

let  of 

list  as 

the 


land- 


DB.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


489 


ed  their  attention.  The  first  was,  how  they  were  to 
pass  this,  their  second  winter  in  the  Arctic  regions ; 
and  how  they  were  to  make  their  escape  in  the  ensu- 
ing spring. 

Whatever  might  be  the  issue  of  the  future,  Dr.  Kane 
determined  to  leave  a  memorial  at  the  spot  which 
he  then  occupied,  to  prove  to  his  successors  the  fact 
that  he  and  his  expedition  had  been  there.  He  paint- 
ed the  words  "  Advance,  A.  D.  1853-5V' upon  the 
broad  face  of  a  rock,  which  rested  on  a  high  cliff  look- 
ing out  upon  the  frozen  waste.  Near  this  spot  a  hole 
was  drilled  into  the  rock,  and  a  paper  containing  a 
history  of  the  expedition  and  its  present  condition, 
was  placed  in  glass,  and  sealed  into  the  cavity  with 
melted  lead.  Close  at  hand  were  buried  the  corpses 
of  the  two  members  of  the  expedition  who  had  al- 
ready ended  their  toils  and  sufferings. 

Tiie  prospect  of  a  second  winter  amid  the  eternal 
snows  and  ice  of  the  Polar  Circle,  was  not  inviting  to 
the  adventurers.  A  portion  of  them  felt  convinced 
of  the  practicability  of  an  immediate  escape  to  the 
south.  On  the  24:th  of  August  Dr.  Kane  summoned 
all  hands  together,  and  clearly  stated  to  them  the  as- 
pects of  the  case.  He  advised  that  all  should  remain 
by  the  brig  till  the  next  spring ;  although  he  declared 
that  those  who  wished  to  return  could  make  the  at- 
tempt. Eight  men  concluded  to  remain ;  and  nine 
of  them  resolved  that,  rather  than  endure  the  miseries 
of  a  second  winter  near  the  Pole,  they  would  run  the 
risks  of  an  instant  attempt  to  escape.  This  resolution 
they  made  immediate  preparations  to  execute.  A 
full  share  of  the  remaining  provisions  was  measured 
out  to  them.  They  were  assured  of  a  welcome  re- 
ception if  they  chose  to  return;  and  they  started 
forth  on  August  28th  from  the  brig.  One  of  this 
party  returned  to  the  vessel  in  a  few  days  ;  the  rest 
wandered  for  many  months,  and  endured  much  misery 
and  exposure,  before  they  rejoined  their  wiser  com- 
rades in  the  brig.      XJ  31 


iJ  I 


i  t 


490 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


Dr.  Kane  and  the  eight  men  who  remained  with 
him,  immediately  began  to  prepare  for  tho  horrors  of 
the  ensning  winter.  They  gathered  a  hirge  amount 
of  moss  with  which  they  lined  and  padded  the  quar- 
ter-deck. This  expedient  rendered  their  cabin  imper- 
ious to  the  changes  and  the  extreme  severity  of  the 
atmosphere.  They  stripped  off  the  outer-deck  plank- 
ing of  the  brig,  for  the  purpose  of  fire-wood.  The 
chief  necessity  of  the  explorers  was  fresh  meat,  to 
guard  them  against  the  scurvy.  To  obtain  this  food, 
frequent  excursions  were  made  for  the  purpose  of  cap- 
turing seals.  On  one  of  these  occasions  Dr.  Kane 
narrowly  escaped  a  watery  grave.  lie  was  at  twelve 
miles'  distance  from  the  brig,  with  a  single  attendant. 
The  ice  broke  beneath  their  sledge,  and  they  were 
precipitated  into  the  water.  After  great  exertions 
and  amid  extreme  danger,  they  succeeded  in  regain- 
ing ice  sufficiently  strong  to  bear  their  weight.  They 
lost  their  sledge,  tent,  kayack,  guns,  and  snow-shoes. 

At  length,  by  the  21st  of  October,  the  rays  of  the 
sun  had  ceased  to  reach  them;  and  darkness — the 
cold  and  cheerless  darkness  of  an  Arctic  night  settled 
down  upon  them.  They  were  compelled  to  confine 
themselves  to  the  precincts  of  their  gloomy  cabin, 
and  waste  away  as  best  they  could,  the  slow  hours 
of  their  long  winter.  Their  only  light  was  an  occa- 
sional aurora,  whose  pale,  bright  arch  of  brilliant  hues 
seemed  to  be  resting  on  the  distant  Pole.  The  ther- 
mometer aow  ranged  34°  below  zero.  Thus,  in  this 
strange  monotony  of  routine  and  incident,  November 
and  December  wore  away ;  except  that  during  the 
latter  month,  a  portion  of  the  party  who  had  deserted 
the  bri^  on  the  28th  of  August  previous,  returned  to 
their  old  quarters.  They  had  suffered  much;  and 
had  left  the  remainder  of  their  party  two  hundred 
miles  distant  in  the  midst  of  great  destitution.  The 
thermometer  was  then  fifty  degrees  below  zero.  When 
Oiiristmas  came  it  was  celebrated  for  the  second  time 
by  this  gallant  crew  oi'  heroes,  amid  the  Arctic  soli- 


-^ 


DR.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


491 


tndes,  with  snch  means  as  tlicy  conld  command — 
which  indeed  were  few  j  and  thus  ended  with  them 
the  year  1854. 

The  three  most  dangerous  and  dreary  months  of 
the  year — January,  February,  and  March — were  now 
before  them.  During  these  months  it  was  exceeding 
ly  difficult  for  the  adventurers  to  procure  fresh  meat, 
wliich  was  their  only  preventive  and  cure  of  scurvy. 
With  this  disease  every  member  of  the  party  became 
at  last  infected ;  some  so  seriously  that  their  lives 
were  in  danger.  Thus  the  dreary  drama  of  their  Arc- 
tic exile  dragged  on.  They  waited  patiently  for  the 
time  to  arrive  when  they  could  commence  the  neces- 
sary preparations  for  the  journey  of  thirteen  hundred 
miles  which  they  would  undertake  in  the  spring. 
The  vessel  would  evidently  remain  so  firmly  fixed  in 
an  ocean  of  ice,  that  its  removal  would  be  utterly  im- 
possible. Their  return  must  be  effected  with  the  com- 
bined use  of  sledges  and  boats.  Yet  before  commenc- 
ing a  final  retreat.  Dr.  Kane  resolved  to  attempt  once 
more  a  northern  excursion,  hoping  that  it  might  re- 
sult in  some  useful  discovery  connected  with  the  ob- 
ject of  the  expedition. 

The  region  which  was  yet  to  be  explored  was  the 
farther  shores  beyond  Kennedy  Channel.  The  aid  of 
the  dogs  was  indispensable  to  the  accomplishment 
of  this  task ;  and  there  were  but  four  left  out  of  the 
sixty- two,  which  composed  their  stock  when  they  left 
Newfoundland.  An  arrangement  was  however  made 
with  Kalutunah,  one  of  the  wandering  Esquimaux 
whom  they  knew,  for  the  use  of  his  dogs  and  three 
sledges.  Thus  reenforced,  Dr.  Kane,  accompanied  by 
several  experienced  Esquimaux  travelers,  commenced 
his  journey.  In  two  hours  they  reached  a  lofty  berg 
fifteen  miles  north  of  the  brig.  The  view  of  the  chan- 
nel presented  from  the  summit  of  this  berg  was  not 
very  favorable.  The  outside  channel  seemed  filled 
with  squeezed  ice ;  and  on  the  frozen  plain  beyond, 
the  bergs  appeared  tcv  be  much  distorted. 


jll' 


492 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


^ 


Nevertheless,  Dr.  Kane  resolved  to  make  the  ven- 
ture. They  quickly  passed  fifteen  miles  further; 
when  the  party  halted  to  feed  and  rest.  The  journey 
was  then  resumed.  But  unfortunately  the  traces  of 
a  Polar  bear  soon  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, and  the  temptation  was  too  strong  for  famished 
men  to  resist.  A  chase  ensued.  The  animal  was 
quickly  brought  to  bay,  attacked,  and  dispatched. 
Then  ensued  another  gorge,  and  after  the  gorge  there 
necessarily  came  an  interval  of  repose  and  sleep. 

A  sleep  of  four  hours'  duration  ensued  upon  the 
open  snow  ;  after  which  the  party  arose  and  resumed 
their  journey.  Dr.  Kane  desired  to  steer  directly  to 
the  northward  ;  but  his  associates  declared  that  to 
cross  80  high  up  as  they  then  were,  was  impossible. 
The  fate  of  Baker  and  Schubert  in  the  preceding  year, 
who  attempted  this  feat,  recurred  to  their  recollec- 
tion, and  convinced  them  that  the  attempt  would  be 
then  extremely  hazardous.  Again  was  the  leader  of 
the  expedition  fated  to  experience  a  disappointment, 
and  to  return  to  the  brig  witl  out  having  accomplished 
the  purpose  for  which  he  set  forth.  But  before  he 
did  so,  he  embraced  the  opportunity  which  was  with- 
in h'l  reach,  once  more  to  examine  the  Great  Hum- 
boldt Glacier,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  monuments 
in  nature.  The  whole  horizon  before  him  was  bound- 
ed by  long  lines  of  ice-bergs.  They  undulated  about 
the  horizon,  but  as  they  descended  to  the  sea,  they 
resembled  an  uneven  plain  with  an  inclination  of 
about  nine  degrees,  still  diminishing  as  they  ap- 
proached the  foreground.  Vast  crevasses  appeared  in 
the  distance  like  mere  wrinkles.  These  grew  larger 
as  they  approached  the  sea,  where  they  expanded  in- 
to gigantic  stairways. 

The  appearance  of  this  Great  Humboldt  Glacier 
resembles  in  some  respects  the  frozen  masses  of  the 
Alps ;  and  reminded  the  bold  adventurer  of  many 
scenes  which  he  had  witnessed  in  the  mountains  of 
K  or  way  and  Switzerland.     The   average  height  of 


DR.  RANK  8  EXPEDITION. 


493 


this  great  glacier  along  the  water's  edge  was  about 
three  hnnured  feet ;  and  this  height  was  presented 
by  an  uniform  perspective  of  sixty  miles  in  length  ; 
thus  exliibiting  one  of  the  most  sublime  and  imposing 
spectacles  which  the  mind  can  conceive.  The  config- 
urations of  its  surface  and  form  clearly  indicate  that 
its  inequalities  follow  those  of  the  rocky  soil  on  which 
it  rests.  Having  made  various  observations  upon  the 
phenomena  connected  with  this  glacier,  Dr.  Kane  re- 
sumed his  return  toward  the  brig.  The  company 
traveled  over  the  frozen  surface  of  tlie  ice  to  the  south 
of  Peabody  Bay.  The  first  spot  at  which  they  landed 
was  called  Cape  James  Kent.  It  was  a  rugged  and 
lofty  headland ;  and  it  presenvd  in  the  distance  a 
strange  spectacle  of  a  rude  surface,  covered  with  mil- 
lions of  tons  of  rubbish,  rocks  of  every  imaginable 
shape,  and  slates  of  immense  size  and  of  infinite  va- 
riety of  forms.  On  the  south-eastern  corner  of  Mar- 
shall Bay  the  party  found  a  group  of  Esquimaux  re- 
mains, consisting  of  a  few  deserted  huts  and  graves. 
They  were  the  rude  and  melancholy  relics  of  a  race 
of  lonely  wanderers  who  had  passed  away.  These 
remains  w^re  surrounded  by  the  bones  of  the  seal  and 
the  walrus,  and  the  dissevered  vertebrae  of  a  whale. 
There  were  indications  that  the  spot  had  long  been 
deserted ;  and  yet  no  changes  had  been  eft'ected  by 
the  silent  lapse  of  time  in  those  frozen  and  primeval 
solitudes,  in  the  appearance  and  position  of  these 
simple  monuments. 

This  journey  was  enlivened  by  several  interesting 
bear  hunts  ;  and  a  few  details  respecting  this  Arctic 
entertainment  may  here  not  be  inappropriate. 

The  dogs  with  which  these  hunts  are  carried  on, 
are  very  carefully  trained  to  play  their  part.  This 
part  is  not  to  attack  the  bear,  but  to  hinder  and  im- 
pede his  flight.  While  one  of  these  dogs  occupies 
Lis  attention  in  front,  another  salutes  his  hind  legs 
with  vigorous  bites.  This  keeps  the  animal  oscilla- 
ting between  several  distinct  parties  of  foes ;  and  while 


:  t  f     ^, 


i    n 


49-i 


PROOKE88   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


he  is  battling  with  one  and  the  other,  the  hunters 
come  up.  In  the  first  instance,  as  soon  as  the  bear 
sees  the  approach  of  the  dogs  and  men,  he  rises  on 
Ills  haunches,  carefully  inspects  his  foes  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  tlien  takes  to  his  heels.  As  the  hunter  ap- 
proaches him,  if  he  is  riding  on  his  sledge  he  loosens 
the  traces  of  his  two  foremost  dogs,  which  releases 
them  from  their  burden,  and  enables  them  to  attack 
the  bear.  Soon  after,  the  rest  of  the  dogs  are  libera- 
ted in  the  same  way.  When  there  are  two  hunters, 
bruin  is  soon  and  easily  dispatched.  They  surround 
him,  and  while  one  of  them  pretends  to  stab  him  with 
a  spear  on  the  right  side,  and  thus  engages  the  bear 
in  his  defense  in  that  direction,  the  death  wound  is 
inflicted  on  the  left  by  the  same  weapon.  If  there 
be  but  one  hunter,  the  task  is  neither  so  easy  nor  so 
safe.  The  hunter  grasps  his  lance  firmly  in  his  hands, 
and  provokes  the  bear  to  pursue  him  by  running 
across  his  path,  and  then  pretending  to  flee.  When 
the  bear  has  begun  the  chase,  the  hunter  suddenly 
doubles  on  his  track  by  a  dexterous  leap  ;  and  while 
the  bear  is  in  the  act  of  turning  around,  he  is  stabbed 
with  the  spear  in  his  left  side  below  the  shoulder. 
If  this  stab  be  skillfully  executed,  the  bear  is  at  once 
disabled  and  soon  expires.  K  it  is  not,  the  hunter 
has  then  to  run  for  his  life,  after  leaving  his  spear 
sticking  in  the  side  of  his  victim.  If  the  bear  gets 
the  hunter  in  his  grasp,  he  salutes  him  with  divers 
hugs  and  squeezes,  which  are  much  more  vigorous 
and  affectionate  than  agreeable.  He  sometimes  also 
uses  his  teeth.  Dr.  Kane  saw  some  Esquimaux  hun- 
ters who  had  been  bitten  behind  in  the  calves  of  the 
legs ;  and  another  who  had  received  a  similar  salute 
somewhat  higher  up. 

Having  returned  to  the  brig.  Dr.  Kane  resumed 
his  preparations  for  final  departure.  Frozen  fast  as 
she  was  in  the  ice,  there  was  no  possibility  of  remov- 
ing her.  The  only  possible  means  of  escape  was  by 
the  combined  use  of  boats  and  sledges.    The  party 


T 


DR.  KANK  8  EXPEDITION. 


495 


went  to  work  industriously  in  tho  maniifactiiro  of 
clothing  siiitablo  to  tho  journey,  (^anvas  moccasins 
were  made  for  eacli  of  tlie  j)arty,  and  a  surnhis  sup- 
ply of  three  dozen  was  added  to  tho  stocK.  Tiieir 
boots  were  made  of  carpeting,  witli  soles  of  walrus  or 
seal  hide,  and  some  liad  been  fabricated  from  tho 
chating  gear  of  tho  brig.  Other  portions  of  their 
clothing  were  made  out  of  blankets.  Every  one  act- 
ed as  his  own  tailor.  Their  bedding  was  made  out 
of  the  woolen  curtains  with  which  their  berths  in  tho 
brig  had  been  adorned.  These  were  quilted  with 
eider  down,  and  bulfalo  robes  were  added  to  increase 
their  warmth. 

Their  provision  bags  consisted  of  sail-cloth,  made 
water-tiglit  by  the  application  of  tar  and  pitch.  They 
were  of  various  sizes,  so  as  to  be  more  conveniently 
stowed  away  in  the  boats.  The  ship-bread  was  pow- 
dered by  being  beaten  with  a  capstan-bar,  and  then 
pressed  down  into  tlie  bags.  Pork-fat  and  tallow 
being  melted  down,  were  poured  into  other  bags  as 
into  moulds,  and  thus  left  to  freeze.  Concentrated 
beau-soup  was  cooked  up  and  prepared  in  the  same 
way.  The  flour  and  meat-biscuit  were  protected 
from  moisture  in  double  bags.  Dr.  Kane's  plan  was 
to  subsist  his  party  for  some  time  after  they  left  the 
brig,  by  new  supplies  of  provisions  which  he  could 
bring  from  the  vessel  by  trips  with  hia  dog-team. 

The  means  of  conveyance  which  were  to  carry  the 
company  on  this  long  and  weary  journey,  and  which 
were  to  be  carried  by  them  in  a  great  measure,  con- 
sisted of  three  boats.  These  had  all  suffered  very 
materially  from  exposure  to  the  ice  and  the  Arctic 
storms ;  and  were  scarcely  sea-worthy.  They  were 
strengthened  and  tinkered  in  every  possible  way  by 
oak  bottom-pieces,  and  by  wash-boards  which  protect- 
ed the  gunwales  and  gave  them  greater  depth.  A 
housing  of  canvas  was  stretched  upon  a  ridge  line, 
which  was  suspended  by  stanchions,  and  which  were 
fastened  over  the  sides  of  the   boats  to  jack-stays. 


!|; 


» 


496 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


Each  boat  had  a  sinfi^lo  mnRt,  and  it  was  so  arranpred 
that  it  could  bo  easily  un8hi})pod,  and  carried  along- 
side the  boat.  The  boats  were  mounted  on  sledi^cs. 
The  provisions  were  stored  carefully  under  the  thwarts. 
The  boats  were  to  bo  drawn  by  the  men  with  ruo-rad- 
dies,  or  straps,  which  passed  over  the  shoulder  and 
were  attached  by  a  long  trace  to  the  pledge.  Tire 
philosophical  instruments  were  carefully  boxed  and 
padded,  and  placed  in  the  stern-sheets  of  one  of  the 
boats.  Spy-glasses  and  small  instruments  the  trav- 
elers earned  on  their  persons.  The  powder  and  shot, 
which  now  became  of  infinite  value  to  them,  wore  dis- 
tributed in  bags  and  tin  canisters.  The  percussion 
caps,  the  most  valuable  of  all.  Dr.  Kane  himself  took 
charge  of  and  reserved. 

Having  made  all  the  preparations  which  were  pos- 
sible under  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  Dr.  Kane 
announced  to  his  crew  that  he  appointed  the  17th  of 
May  as  the  day  of  their  linal  departure  from  the  brig. 
Each  man  was  allowed  to  select  and  retain  eight 
pounds  of  personal  effects.  The  announcement  of 
their  final  departure  toward  the  south  was  not  received 
by  the  members  of  the  expedition  with  the  enthusiasm 
which  Dr.  Kane  had  expected.  Some  doubted  the 
reality  of  the  journey  home ;  and  suspected  that  it 
was  merely  a  maneuver  to  remove  the  sick  to  the 
hunting  grounds.  Others  thought  that  the  real  pur- 
pose was  only  to  journey  further  south,  whilst  the 
brig  was  retained  as  a  refuge  for  them  to  retreat  to ; 
while  others  suspected  that  their  leader  merely 
wished  to  reach  some  point  on  the  coast  where  he 
could  obtain  a  rescue  from  passing  whalers,  or  from 
some  of  the  English  Arctic  expeditions  which  were 
still  supposed  to  be  lingering  in  those  remote  regions. 


The  sick  among  the  crew, 


who  had  long  been  accus- 


tomed to  inaction  and  indulgence,  declared  themselves 
unfit  to  be  removed,  and  unable  to  travel  a  mile. 

But  in  spite  of  all  these  obstacles,  the  resolution  of 
the  commander  of  the  expedition  was  unalterable. 


TIF  -I 

I     I 


DR.  Kane's  expedition. 


497 


IIo  was  determined  to  cornmenco  this  incrnornblo 
journey  on  the  day  appointed,  nt  all  hazards.  At 
len<]jth  the  day  preeedini^  that  of  departure  arrived. 
The  boats  were  reuiovod  from  the  bri;^  and  placed 
upon  the  ico.  Thisproeeas  seemed  to  revive  to  somo 
decree  the  (lea])ondin«^  spirits  of  the  men.  The  pro- 
visions were  then  conveyed  into  them  ;  and  other 
necessary  transfers  were  made.  After  some  hours  of 
active  oi)erations,  the  whole  of  tlieir  task  was  com- 
pleted;  and  the  men  returned  on  board  the  bri<^,  in 
order  to  spend  their  last  night  in  that  familiar 
shelter.  After  supper  they  retired  to  rest,  in  or<ler  to 
recruit  their  energies  for  the  toils  which  were  to  com- 
mence on  the  ensuing  day,  ui)oii  the  iinal  success  of 
which  their  future  existence  depended. 

At  length  the  wished-for  moment  arrived  when  the 
weary  adventurers  were  to  take  their  last  farewell  of 
the  vessel  which  had  been  associated  with  them  in 
so  many  vicissitudes  and  dangers.  All  hands  were 
assembled  together  in  silence  in  the  w'liter  chamber. 
The  day  was  Sunday,  and  the  exercises  began  by  the 
reading  of  a  chapter  of  the  scriptures.  Dr.  iuino 
then  took  Sir  John  Franklin's  portrait  from  its  frame, 
and  enclosed  it  in  an  ludia-rubber  scroll.  The  sev- 
eral reports  of  inspection  and  survey  were  then  read, 
which  set  forth  what  results  had  already  been  attained, 
and  contained  the  reasons  which  induced  the  com- 
mander of  the  expedition  to  take  the  steps  which 
were  to  ensue.  He  then  addressed  his  men  in  refer- 
ence to  the  journey  on  which  they  were  about  to  en- 
ter, explaining  its  necessity,  the  method  according  to 
which  it  was  to  be  conducted,  and  the  certainty  of 
final  relief  and  escape  which  it  would  bring  them,  if 
they  resolutely  persisted  in  carrying  it  out.  Thirteen 
hundred  miles  of  ice  and  water  lay  between  their 
present  position  and  the  shores  of  Korth  Greenland. 
He  closed  by  directing  their  hopes  of  safety,  not  un- 
fitly, to  that  great  Unseen  Power  who  had  already 
rescued  them  from  a  thousand  deaths,  and  who  would 


% 


498 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


continue  to  be  their  very  present  help  in  every  time 
of  need. 

The  men  responded  to  the  sentiments  and  purposes 
expressed  by  Dr.  Kane  with  more  enthusiasm  than 
he  seems  to  have  anticipated.     They  drew  up  a  state- 
ment in  which  they  expressed  their  conviction  of  the 
necessity  which  existed  of  abandoning  the  brig;  the 
impossibility  of  remaining  a  third  winter  in  the  ice  ; 
the   obligation  which   rested  on  them  to  convey  the 
sick  carefully  along  with  them ;  and  their  determina- 
tion to  cooperate  with  their  leader  in  his  proposed 
measures  of  escape.     This  statement  was  handed  to 
Dr.  Kane.     He  also  had  prepared  a  narrative  of  the 
considerations  which  induced  him  to  abandon  the  ves- 
sel.   This  he  posted  to  a  stanchion  near  the  gangway, 
so  that  ii  might  attract  the  attention  of  any  one  who 
approached  the  vessel.     The  party  then  went  on  deck ; 
the  flags  were  hoisted  to  the  mast-head,  and  lowered 
again ;  the  men  paraded  twice  around  the  brig,  care- 
fully scrutinizing  her  timbers,   associated    in  their 
minds  with   so  uiany  pleasing  and  painful  recollec- 
tions ;  and  having  thus  saluted  the  vessel  for  the  last 
time,  they  rushed  away  over  the  ice  toward  the  boats, 
which  had  already  been  removed,  lilled  with  their 
cargo,  and  made  ready  to  commence  their  homeward 
journey. 

The  whole  return  party  consisted  of  seventeen  per- 
sons, including  Dr.  Kane.  Four  of  these  were  sick, 
and  unable  to  move.  The  rest  were  divided  into  two 
companies,  and  appropriated  to  the  several  boats. 
Dr.  Kane  took  charge  of  the  dog-team,  which  was  to 
be  used  for  tiie  purpose  of  conveying  provisions  from 
the  vessel  to  the  crew,  during  the  Srst  few  days  of 
their  journey.  To  the  boat  called  "Faith,"  McGary, 
Ohlseu,  Bonsall,  Petersen,  and  Hickey  were  assigned. 
To  the  *'  Hope,"  Morton,  ISontag,  Kiley,  Blake,  and 
Godfrey  were  detailed. 

The  lii'st  stage  of  the  journey  was  to  a  spot  called 
Auoatok,  which  had  been  a  halting  place  in  their  win- 


DB.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 


499 


ter  journeys.  It  was  a  single  hnt,  composed  of  rude 
and  heavy  stones,  and  resembled  a  cave  more  than 
it  did  a  house.  Strange  to  say,  this  bleak  and  for- 
lorn corner  of  that  frozen  hemisphere,  the  gloomiest 
and  most  detestable  on  the  whole  face  of  the  globe, 
bore  a  name  which  was  imposed  by  the  least  poeti- 
cal of  human  beings,  the  Esquimaux^  which  was  not 
devoid  of  beauty ;  for  Anoatok  in  the  jargon  of  the 
shivering  natives  means  "  the  wind-loved  spot."  It 
was  perched  on  the  extreme  point  ot  a  rocky  promon- 
tory, and  commanded  a  wide  view  of  the  icy  straits, 
both  toward  the  north  and  south. 

Dr.  Kane  had  exerted  himself  to  repair  the  hut,  and 
make  it  fit  to  shelter  the  sick.  He  had  added  a  door 
to  its  broken  outlet,  and  had  introduced  a  stove  and 
stove-pipe.  Other  improvements  had  been  made. 
A  solitary  pane  of  glass,  which  once  had  faced  a 
daguerreotype,  was  inserted  in  the  door,  to  give  a 
scanty  light.  The  provisions  which  had  been  re- 
moved to  this  place  were  eight  hundred  pounds  in 
weight.  Seven  hundred  pounds  still  remained  in  the 
brig,  to  be  removed  by  successive  journeys  of  the 
dog-team.  The  services  of  these  six  dogs  were  in- 
deed invaluable.  In  addition  to  all  their  previous 
journeys,  they  carried  Dr.  Kane  to  and  fro,  with  a 
well-burdened  sledge,  nearly  eight  hundred  miles  du- 
ring the  first  two  weeks  after  they  left  the  brig,  be- 
ing an  average  of  fifty-seven  miles  per  day. 

So  feeble  and  reduced  were  the  parties  who  drag- 
ged the  two  boats,  that  they  advanced  but  a  mile  a 
day,  and  on  the  24:th  had  only  made  seven  miles. 
The  halts  were  regulated  entirely  by  the  condition 
of  the  men  who  required  longer  rest  at  some  periods 
than  at  others.  The  thermometer  ranged  below  zero, 
and  the  men  slept  at  night  in  the  boats,  protected  by 
their  canvas  coverings.  Had  it  not  been  for  the 
shelter  which  the  hut  at  Anoatok  ati:'orded,  the  four 
sick  men — Groodfeiiow,  Wilson,  Whipple,  and  Ste- 
phenson— they  must  have  perished.     At  the  tnne  of 


500 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


their  removal  into  it,  they  were  so  drawn  up  with  the 
scurvy  that  they  were  wholly  unable  to  move.  Yet 
their  delay  in  this  hut  was  extremely  gloomy ;  lor 
it  lasted  from  the  time  that  they  were  removed  from 
the  brig,  until  they  were  carried  forward  by  the 
sledge  to  the  boats  which  had  been  dragged  by  their 
respec^^ive  crews  in  advance  of  them.  During  this 
interval  they  were  carefully  fed  and  attended  by  Dr. 
Kane. 

Dr.  Kane's  visits  to  the  brig  from  time  to  time,  in 
order  to  obtain  supplies  of  provisions,  were  full  of  in- 
terest to  him.  On  the  first  of  these  he  found  the  ves- 
sel already  inhabited  by  an  old  raven,  which  had  often 
been  seen  hovering  around,  and  whom  they  had  called 
Magog.  The  fire  was  lighted  in  the  galley,  the  pork 
was  melted,  large  batches  of  bread  were  baked,  dried 
apples  were  stewed,  and  then  the  sledge  was  made 
ready  to  return  with  the  load.  iSuch  was  usually  the 
routine  of  Dr.  Kane's  lonely  visits  to  the  brig.  Af- 
ter the  first  of  these  visits,  when  he  returned  to  the 
**  wind-loved  spot,"  Anoatok,  with  his  sledge,  he  found 
that  the  sick  who  still  remained  there  had  exhausted 
their  provisions ;  that  their  single  lamp  had  gone  out; 
that  the  snow  drifts  had  forced  thuir  way  in  at  the 
door,  so  that  it  could  not  be  shut ;  that  the  wind  was 
blowing  furiously  through  the  open  tenement ;  and 
that  the  thermometer  ranged  only  thirteen  degrees 
above  zero.  The  invalids  were  disheartened  and  hun- 
gry. A  fire  was  built  with  tarred  rope ;  a  porridge 
was  prepared  for  them  out  of  meat  biscuit  and  pea 
soup ;  the  door  was  fastened  up ;  a  dripping  slab  of 
fat  pork  was  suspended  over  their  lamp  wick ;  and 
then  all  turned  into  their  sleeping  bags,  after  a  hearty 
though  not  \ery  savory  meal.  So  overcome  were 
they  all  with  exposure  and  weakness,  that  they  slept 
until  after  all  their  watches  had  run  down. 

Dr.  Kane  then  hurried  forward  to  the  sledge  party, 
who  had  by  that  time  reached  Ten  Mile  liavine. 
They  were  struggling  with  the  deep  snows,  v/ere  over- 


DR.  KANE's  expedition. 


601 


the 


rty 
ere 
ept 


whelmed  with  fatigue,  and  were  somewhat  disheart- 
ened. Although  their  feet  were  much  swollen,  they 
had  toiled  that  day  for  fourteen  hours.  Some  were 
suffering  from  snow-blindness,  and  were  scarcely 
able  to  work  at  the  drag-ropes.  In  spite  of  all  their 
toils  and  sufferings,  morning  and  evening  prayers 
were  constantly  read  by  the  adventurers.  Meanwhile 
the  sledge  party  advanced  slowly  toward  the  south. 
On  the  28th  Dr.  Kane  paid  his  last  visit  to  the  brig. 
He  was  compelled  to  leave  behind  his  collections  in 
Natural  History,  his  library,  and  some  of  his  instru- 
ments, such  as  his  theodolite  and  chart-box,  the 
useless  daguerrotypes,  and  other  companions  and 
mementoes  of  Arctic  toil  and  suffering.  Then  he 
mounted  his  sledge  ;  gave  a  last  look  at  the  blackened 
hull  and  spars  of  the  Advance ;  fiercely  whipped  up 
his  dogs  in  a  paroxysm  of  mournful  gloom ;  and 
sped  away  for  the  last  time,  over  the  snowy  waste 
which  had  been  associated  with  so  many  recollec- 
tions. Thus  was  left  behind  at  last  in  its  frozen  bed, 
the  vessel  which  had  been  connected  with  two  Arctic 
expeditions,  one  of  which  is  the  most  remarkable  on 
record ;  and  there  doubtless  she  remains,  an  unseen 
monument  of  human  enterprise,  benevolence,  and 
endurance. 

From  Anoatok  Dr.  Kane's  next  labor  was  to  re- 
move the  provisions  and  men  further  on  in  their  route. 
A  friendly  Esquimaux,  named  Metek,  was  sent  for- 
ward to  the  next  station,  with  two  bags  of  bread-dust, 
each  weighing  ninety  pounds.  The  next  station  was 
Etah  Bay.  About  midnight  Dr.  Kane  approached 
that  vicinity.  The  sun  was  low  in  the  heavens,  and 
the  air  around  was  marked  by  that  peculiar  stillness 
which  accompanies  the  great  solitudes  of  nature. 
"While  feeling  the  oppressive  weight  of  that  silence, 
his  ears  were  suddenly  greeted  by  unexpected  sounds 
of  mirth  and  laughter.  He  nad  approached  an  en- 
campment of  the  wandering  Esquimaux,  consisting 
of  about  thirty  men,  women,  and  children.    The  cause 


i  I 


602 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVEltT. 


of  their  joy  was  the  capture  of  innumerable  birds, 
called  Auks,  which  tliey  were  engaged  in  catching 
with  nets.  These  birds,  though  the  thermometer  was 
five  degrees  below  zero,  were  flying  about  in  the  great- 
est abundance ;  and  the  hungry  Esquimaux  were 
eating  them  raw,  as  soon  as  taken.  He  saw  two  chil- 
dren fighting  for  an  owl,  which  as  soon  as  captured 
was  torn  limb  from  limb,  and  its  warm  flesh  eaten, 
and  its  blood  drunken,  almost  be  "ore  life  was  extinct. 
This  was  the  spot  which  these  birds  mysteriously 
chose  for  the  purpose  of  breeding,  from  year  to  year ; 
and  the  Esquimaux  as  regularly  found  their  way 
thither  in  pursuit  of  them. 

The  travelers  continued  their  weary  march  through 
the  snow,  dragging  their  boats  after  them.  Some- 
times, when  the  weather  moderated — for  it  was  sum- 
mer— the  sledges  broke  through.  Six  men  on  one 
occasion  were  thrown  into  the  water ;  and  the  "  Hope  " 
was  very  nearly  lost.  Help  came  to  them  from  the 
Esquimaux  at  Etah,  who  sent  them  the  loan  of  their 
dogs,  together  with  an  additional  supply  of  fresh  pro- 
visions. The  dogs  were  of  infinite  service  in  drawing 
one  of  the  sledges,  upon  which  the  sick  men  were  con- 
veyed. At  this  period  an  accident  deprived  the  ex- 
pedition by  death  of  one  of  its  most  useful  members, 
while  crossing  a  tide-hole,  one  of  the  runners  of  the 
"  Hope  "  sledge  broke  through  the  ice.  The  energy 
and  presence  of  mind  of  Christian  Ohlsen  alone  saved 
her  from  being  lost.  By  a  prodigious  effort  he  passed 
a  capstan-bar  under  the  sledge,  and  thus  sustained  its 
weight  until  it  was  dragged  forward  to  firm  ice.  In 
doing  this  his  footing  gave  way  beneath  him  ;  and  he 
thus  was  compelled  to  strain  himself.  The  effort 
ruined  him.  Some  internal  injury  had  been  inflicted 
by  the  effort ;  and  he  died  three  days  afterward.  His 
body  was  sewed  up  in  his  own  blankets,  and  carried 
in  procession  to  the  head  of  a  little  gorge  to  the  east 
of  Pekiutlik,  where  a  grave  was  excavated  in  the 
frozen  earth.    There  his  body  was  deposited  with  a 


DR.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


603 


few  simple  and  appropriate  ceremonies.  His  name 
and  age  were  inscribed  by  the  commander  on  a  atrip 
of  sheet  lead ;  and  ere  his  grave  was  tilled  by  his 
comrades,  the  brief  and  touching  memorial  was  laid 
upon  his  manly  breast.  A  small  mound  was  then 
erected  with  rocks  and  stones  over  his  lonely  resting- 
place  ;  and  there  now  sleep,  in  that  cheerless  and  win- 
try tomb,  the  remains  of  Christian  Ohlsen. 

By  the  6th  of  June  the  party  reached  Littleton 
Island.  From  a  lofty  height  here  of  some  eight  hun- 
dred feet.  Dr.  Kane  obtained  his  first  view  of  the 
open  water.  His  position  at  that  time  was  78°  22'  1" 
latitude,  and  74°  10'  longitude.  So  weary  were  the  men 
of  dragging  the  sledges  over  the  snow  and  ice,  that 
they  wished  to  take  the  direct  route  to  the  water, 
upon  which  they  were  eager  to  embark  with  tlio 
boats.  But  the  dangers  of  the  plan  proposed  over- 
ruled their  wishes,  and  the  inland  route,  though  longer, 
was  selected.  The  wished-for  water  which  greeted 
the  eyes  of  the  wearj  travelers,  was  Hartstein  Bay  ; 
and  they  welcomed  it  with  emotions  of  rapture  re- 
sembling those  which,  as  Xenophon  records,  tilled  the 
minds  and  excited  the  enthusiasm  of  the  ten  thousand 
Greeks  when,  after  their  long  and  perilous  march 
through  Asia  Minor,  and  their  escape  from  the  myr- 
iads of  Artaxerxes,  they  tirst  beheld  the  distant 
waves  of  the  sea  whose  billows  laved  the  shores  of 
their  beloved  Greece. 

On  the  16th  of  June  the  party  reached  the  water. 
It  was  at  the  northern  curve  of  the  North  BatHn  Bay. 
The  surf  roared  sublimely  in  their  ears,  and  sounded 
like  sweet  music  after  their  long  and  cheerless  absence 
from  its  bosom.  The  next  thing  to  be  done  was  to 
prepare  the  boats  for  the  difficult  navigation  which 
was  to  ensue.  They  were  not  sea-worthy.  They  had 
been  split  with  frost,  warped  by  the  sunshine,  and 
were  open  at  the  seams.  They  were  to  be  calked, 
swelled,  launched,  and  stowed.  ,0n  the  18th  the 
travelers  were  surrounded  by  all  the  Esquimaux  who 


604 


PBOGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


had  been  assembled  at  Etah.  They  had  come  to  bid 
the  strangers  farewell,  whom  they  had  served  to  the 
best  of  their  ability  at  an  earlier  stage  of  their  jour- 
ney. They  were  indeed  a  miserable  and  forlorn  race, 
though  kindly  and  confiding  in  their  dispositions. 
Tliey  receivea  various  presents  and  keepsalces  from 
the  travelers — such  as  knives,  files,  saws,  and  lumps 
of  soap.  They  had  been  of  great  service  in  lending 
hand-sledges  and  dogs ;  in  helping  to  carry  baggage 
and  the  sick  from  one  station  to  another,  along  their 
weary  route ;  and  they  parted  from  the  strangers — 
probably  the  last  they  were  destined  ever  to  behold 
in  that  repulsive  clime  —  with  feelings  of  regret 
which  they  did  not  conceal.  Dr.  Kane  urged  tliem 
to  emigrate  further  south ;  for  there  they  could  ob- 
tain more  abundant  food,  and  escape  the  perils  of 
starvation  which  constantly  surrounded  them. 

On  the  evening  of  Sunday,  June  17th,  the  party 
hauled  their  boats  through  the  hummocks,  reached 
the  open  sea,  and  launched  their  frail  craft  upon  its 
waters.  But  Eolus  seemed  determined  not  to  per- 
mit them  yet  to  embark ;  for  he  let  loose  his  fiercest 
winds,  which  began  to  dash  a  heavy  vjind-lijpper 
against  the  ice-floe,  and  obliged  the  party  to  re- 
move their  boats  back  with  each  new  breakage  of  the 
ice.  The  goods  which  had  been  stacked  upon  the  ice 
were  conveyed  further  inward  to  the  distance  of  sev- 
eral hundred  yards.  The  storm  continued  to  rage, 
and  to  forbid  them  to  venture  on  the  treacherous  ele- 
ment. At  last  Dr.  Kane  saw  the  necessity  of  per- 
mitting the  worn-out  men  to  repose,  and  in  order  to 
do  so  securely,  the  boats  were  removed  a  mile  from 
the  water's  edge.  The  sea  tore  up  the  ice  to  the  very 
base  of  the  berg  to  which  they  had  fled  for  refuge, 
and  the  angry  deep  seemed  like  a  vast  cauldron,  boil- 
ing with  intense  fury,  while  the  immense  fragments 
of  ice  crashed  and  rolled  together  with  a  sound  re- 
sembling thunder. 

At  length  the  fitorm  subsided,  and  the  troubled  sea 


DR.  KANE  8  EXrEDITION. 


505 


became  tranquil.  The  boats  were  again  prepared  for 
embarkation.  On  Tuesday,  the  19tn,  Dr.  Kane  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  the  Faith  afloat,  and  he  was  soon 
foUowed  by  the  two  other  boats.  Soon  the  wind 
freshened,  and  the  mariners  began  their  welcome 
progress  homeward;  but  they  had  a  long  and  perilous 
voyage  before  them  of  many  hundred  miles.  At 
length  they  doubled  Cape  Alexander.  They  desired 
first  to  halt  at  Sutherland  Island ;  but  the  ice-belt 
which  hugged  its  shores  was  too  steep  to  permit  them 
to  land.  They  then  steered  for  Ilakluyt  Island,  but 
had  not  proceeded  far  before  the  red  boat  swamped. 
The  crew  were  compelled  to  swim  to  the  other  boats ; 
and  the  former  was  with  difficulty  kept  afloat,  and 
dragged  in  tow  by  her  comrades.  Dr.  Kane  then 
fastened  his  boats  to  an  old  floe ;  and  thus  sheltered, 
the  men  obtained  their  second  halt  and  rest.  When 
they  had  become  somewhat  refreshej:!,  they  rowed  for 
Hakluyt  Island,  at  a  point  less  repulsive  and  imprac- 
ticable than  the  one  attempted  the  day  before.  A 
spit  to  the  southward  gave  them  an  opportunity  to 
haul  up  the  boats  on  the  land-ice,  as  the  tide  rose. 
From  this  the  men  dragged  the  boats  to  the  rocks 
above  and  inland  ;  and  w'ere  thus  secure.  It  snowed 
heavily  during  the  ensuing  night.  A  tent  was  pre- 
pared for  the  sick ;  and  a  few  birds  were  luckily  ob- 
tained to  vary  their  stale  diet  of  bread-dust  and  tallow. 

On  the  next  morning,  the  22d,  the  snow  storm 
still  continued  to  pelt  them;  but  they  pressed  on- 
ward toward  Northumberland  Island,  and  reached 
it.  They  rowed  their  boats  into  a  small  inlet  of  open 
water,  which  conducted  them  to  the  beach  directly 
beneath  a  hanging  glacier  which  towered  sublimely 
into  the  heavens  to  the  immense  height  of  eleven 
hundred  feet. 

The  next  day  they  crossed  Murchison  Channel,  and 
at  night  encamped  at  the  base  of  Cape  Parry.  The 
day  had  been  laboriously  spent  in  tracking  over  the 
ice,  and  in  sailing  through  tortuous  leads.    The  day 

32 


1    '3 


I 


608 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


following  they  reach  ed  Fitz  Clarence  Rock ;  one  of 
the  most  singular  forms  to  be  seen  in  that  strange 
clime.  It  rises  to  an  immense  height  from  a  vast 
field  of  ice,  having  the  shape  of  an  Egyptian  pyra- 
mid surmounted  by  an  obelisk.  In  more  frequented 
waters  it  would  be  a  valued  landmark  to  the 
navigator. 

Still  they  continued  to  toil  onward  from  day  to  day. 
Their  progress  was  satisfactory,  though  their  labor 
was  exhausting.  Dr.  Kane  sometimfes  continued  six- 
teen hours  in  succession  at  the  helm.  But  now  their 
allowance  of  food  began  to  grow  scanty.  It  was 
reduced  to  six  ounces  of  bread-dust  per  day,  and  a 
lump  of  tallow  about  the  size  of  a  walnut.  An  occa- 
sional cup  of  tea  was  their  only  consolation.  From 
this  stage  in  their  journey  Dairy mple  Rock  became 
perceptible  in  the  distance.  But  the  physical  strength 
of  the  men  began  to  give  way  beneath  their  labors 
and  their  insufficient  diet.  At  tliis  crisis  a  gale  struck 
them  from  the  north-west,  and  a  lloe,  one  end  of 
which  having  grounded  on  a  tongue  of  ice  about  a 
mile  to  the  northward  of  them,  began  to  swing  round  to- 
ward the  boats,  and  threaten  to  enclose  and  crush  them. 
Soon  the  destruction  of  the  surrounding  ice  threatened 
their  own.  For  hundreds  of  yards  on  every  side  around 
them  the  ice  was  crumbled,  crushed,  and  piled  in  irreg- 
ular and  fragmentary  masses.  The  thunder  of  the  con- 
fused ocean  of  frozen  wrecks  was  overpowering.  Sud- 
denly the  ice  seemed  to  separate  and  form  a  channel; 
and  in  that  channel,  so  unexpectedly  opened  before 
them,  the  men  rowed  the  boats  with  the  aid  of  their 
boat  hooks,  and  escaped  a  danger  which  a  moment 
before  seemed  inevitable  and  ruinous.  Soon  they 
found  themselves  in  a  lead  of  land-water,  wide  enougii 
to  give  them  rowing  room,  and  they  hastened  on  to 
the  land,  which  loomed  ahead.  Reaching  it,  they 
eagerly  sought  a  shelter.  The  Hope  here  stove  her 
bottom,  and  lost  part  of  her  weather-boarding.  The 
Wfttev  broke  over  them,  for  the  storm  still  continued. 


DB.  XANE's  expedition. 


607 


11  to 

hey 
llier 

Ihe 
led. 


At  length  the  tide  ro8e  high  enough  at  tlirec  o'clock 
to  enable  them  to  scale  the  ice-cliff.  They  succeeded 
in  pulling  the  boats  into  a  deep  and  narrow  gorge, 
which  opened  between  the  towering  cliffs.  Tlie  rocks 
seemed  almost  to  close  above  their  heads.  An  ab- 
rupt curve  in  the  windings  of  this  gorge  placed  a  pro- 
tecting rock  behind  them,  which  shielded  them  from 
the  violence  of  the  winds  and  waves.  They  had  reached 
a  haven  of  refuge  which  was  almost  a  cave ;  where  they 
found  a  flock  ot  eider  ducks  on  which  they  feasted  ;  and 
where  for  three  days  they  reposed  from  the  danf^ers 
and  labors  of  their  voyage.  This  retreat  they  fitly 
called  Weary  Man's  Rest. 

The  fourth  day  of  July  having  arrived,  it  was  com- 
memorated by  the  adventurers  by  a  few  diluted  and 
moderate  potations,  such  as  their  nearly  exhausted 
whisky  flask  permitted ;  and  they  then  embarked 
and  rowed  industriously  toward  Wolstenholmo  Island. 
During  some  succeeding  days,  they  continued  slowly 
to  progress  toward  the  south,  through  the  various  lanes 
of  water  which  opened  between  the  belt-ice  and  the 
floe.  By  this  time,  the  constant  collisions  between 
the  boats  and  the  floating  ice  had  rendered  them  quite 
unseaworthy.  The  ice  had  strained  their  bottom  tim- 
bers, and  constant  baling  was  necessary.  Their  fresh 
meat  had  all  been  consumed,  and  the  men  were  now 
reduced  again  to  short  rations  of  bread-dust. 

On  the  11th  of  July  they  approached  Cape  Dudley 
Digges ;  but  their  progress  was  suddenly  stopped  by 
an  immense  tongue  of  floe  which  extended  out  to  sea 
for  a  prodigious  distance.  They  forced  their  way 
into  a  lead  of  sludge,  and  attempted  thus  to  advance. 
They  found  this  to  be  impossible ;  and  were  glad  to 
make  their  escape  from  it.  Dr.  Kane  was  at  a  loss 
how  to  proceed.  He  mounted  an  ice-berg  to  recon- 
noiter  the  surrounding  prospect.  It  was  gloomy  and 
repulsive  in  the  extreme.  They  were  in  advance  of 
the  season ;  and  he  discovered  that  in  those  waters 
towai'd  Cape  York,  the  floes  had  not  yet  broken  up. 


''I  I 


608 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVKRY. 


They  seemed  to  be  surrounded  in  a  cul-de-sae^  with 
exhausted  strength  and  food,  and  no  possibility  of  es- 
caping until  the  summer  had  broken  open  for  them  a 
pathway  of  escape  tli rough  the  water. 

Dr.  Kane  resolved  to  steer  for  the  rocky  shore. 
Above  a  narrow  ledge  of  lofty  cliffs  mounted  one 
over  the  other  to  the  prodigious  height  of  eleven  hun- 
dred feet.  Tlio  waves  dashed  violently  against  that 
ledge ;  but  still  it  afforded  a  shelter  to  the  boats. 
Here  they  were  for  the  present  again  deposited ;  and 
fortunately  a  quantity  of  gulls  were  found  in  the  crevi- 
ces of  the  rocks,  which  afforded  the  famished  wander- 
ers nutricious  food.  The  glacier  which  stretched 
away  in  front  of  them  was  about  seven  miles  across. 
On  ascending  the  heights  above  him,  Dr.  Kane  en- 
joyed a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  frozen  ocean,  the 
ineV'de-glace^  whose  glittering  surface  spread  out  be- 
fore and  around  him.  A  vast  undulating  plain  of 
purple-colored  ice  appeared,  extending  to  the  limits 
of  the  horizon,  resplendent  with  the  varied  hues  of 
sun  tipped  crystal.  This  spot,  where  the  wanderers 
enjoyed  so  welcome  a  repose,  such  nutricious  food, 
and  such  sublime  perspective,  they  named  Providence 
Halt.     Here  they  remained  till  the  18th  of  July. 

In  resuming  their  voyage  from  this  point,  they  en- 
countered an  accident  which  might  have  proved  very 
serious.  When  they  launched  the  Hope,  she  was  pre- 
cipitated into  the  sludge  in  such  a  manner  as  to  carry 
away  her  rail  and  bulwark.  They  lost  overboard  their 
best  shot-gun,  and  an  equally  indispensable  utensil, 
their  kettle  which  had  served  them  m  every  possible 
capacity  of  kettle — such  as  soup-kettle,  paste-kettle, 
tea-kettle,  and  water-kettle.  Sailing  along  they  passed 
the  Crimson  Cliffs,  so  named  by  Sir  John  Koss.  They 
continued  thence  to  hug  the  shore.  The  weather 
now  moderated;  and  their  voyage  assumed  more 
agreeable  and  genial  features.  The  men  frequently 
lauded,  climbed  up  the  steep  cliffs  and  obtained 
abundant  quantities  of  auks.     Fires  were  kindled 


DR.  KANE  8  EXl'KmTrON. 


609 


with  the  turf,  and  tlio  feasts  wliich  ensued  were  rcl« 
ished  with  more  than  an  ordinary  appetite  ;  nnd  that 
also  the  more  truly,  because  the  travelers  well  knew 
that  their  good  fortune,  and  tlieir  propitious  seas  and 
weather,  would  not  long  continue.  They  were  now 
in  78°  20'  north  latitude. 

On  the  21st  of  June  they  reached  Capo  York. 
Their  provisions  had  now  diminished  to  six  hundred 
and  forty  pounds,  or  about  thirty-six  pounds  to  each 
man.  I'he  question  to  be  determined  was,  whether 
they  should  delay  where  they  then  were  for  some 
days  until  the  sliore-ice  opened  ;  or  whether  they 
should  desert  the  co.ast  and  venture  boldly  upon  the 
open  water  to  the  west.  Dr.  Kano  ascended  tlie 
rocks  upon  the  shore,  and  by  the  aid  of  his  glass  care- 
fully scrutinized  the  ice.  The  latter  could  be  seen 
immoveably  lixed  to  the  shore  in  nearly  an  unbroken 
sweep  far  beyond  Bushnell  Island.  The  outside  floes 
were  large  ;  and  one  large  lead  appeared  to  the  view 
which  seemed  to  follow  the  main  lioe  until  it  was  lost 
to  seaward. 

Dr.  Kano  explained  to  his  men  the  motives  which 
induced  him  to  adopt  the  course  upon  which  he  had 
determined.  The  boats  were  then  hauled  on  shore, 
examined,  and  repaired.  One  of  these,  the  Red  Erie, 
was  stripped  of  her  cargo  and  prepared  to  be  broken 
up  as  soon  as  occasion  should  require.  A  beacon  was 
also  erected  on  an  eminence,  which  could  be  dis- 
cerned both  from  the  south  and  the  west,  surmounted 
by  a  red  flannel  shirt.  Under  the  cairn  was  deposit- 
ed a  short  narrative  of  the  condition  and  purposes  of 
the  party.  They  then  resumed  their  voyage  steering 
south  l)y  west  through  the  ice-fields.  For  a  while 
they  progressed  safely  enough.  But  soon  the  irregu- 
liarities  of  the  surface,  loaded  as  it  was  by  hummocks 
and  even  larger  masses,  made  it  ditticult  to  discern 
the  state  of  the  ice  in  the  distance.  At  length  they 
lost  their  way  ;  the  ofiicer  at  the  helm  of  the  leading 
boat  deceived  by  the  irregular  shape  of  a  large  ice- 


iul 


510 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


borg,  had  deserted  the  proper  lead,  and  hud  steered 
far  out  of  the  true  course. 

Dr.  Kane  at  once  ordered  a  halt,  and  ascending  an 
ico-berg  some  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  he  sur- 
veyed the  prospect.  It  was  by  no  means  encoura- 
ging. They  had  advanced  into  the  recesses  of  the 
bay,  and  were  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  immense 
ice-bergs  and  floating  ice.  So  dismal  appeared  their 
situation  that  one  of  the  sturdiest  members  of  the  ex- 
pedition, who  accompanied  the  commander  in  his  sur- 
vey, burst  into  tears  at  the  sadness  of  their  situation. 

There  was  but  one  means  of  deliverance,  and  that 
it  behooved  them  to  adopt  instantly.  They  must  re- 
sume their  sledges  and  retrace  their  way  to  the  west- 
ward. One  sledge  had  already  been  cut  up  for  fire- 
wood. The  boat  Ked  Erie  now  shared  the  same  fate ; 
and  was  laid  upon  the  floor  of  the  other  boats.  Three 
days  of  hard  dragging  over  the  ice  ensued ;  at  the 
cud  of  which  time  they  regained  the  ice-berg  which 
had  misled  them  in  the  first  instance,  and  had  induced 
them  to  take  a  course  which  had  nearly  ended  in  their 
ruin.  From  this  point  made  easier  by  experience, 
they  steered  in  the  right  direction  into  a  free  lead, 
and  were  wafted  onward  by  a  friendly  breeze  from 
the  north. 

Another  trouble  now  assailed  the  travelers,  not  less 
important  than  the  one  they  had  just  escaped.  Their 
provisions  had  fearfully  diminished,  and  yet  they  were 
hundreds  of  miles  distant  from  the  nearest  Danish 
settlement  of  Greenland.  Their  strength  dimiL.,.lied 
in  proportion  with  their  food.  The  latter  had  become 
60  much  lessened,  that  five  ounces  of  bread-dust,  four 
ounces  of  tallow,  and  three  of  bird's  meat,  were  all 
that  could  be  thenceforward  allowed  each  man  per 
day.  The  commander  now  determined  to  try  the 
more  open  sea,  as  their  progress  along  the  coast  had 
been  retarded  by  its  sinuosities.  During  two  days 
heavy  fogs  impeded  their  rapid  advance.  A  south- 
westerly wind  brought  the  outside  pack  upon  them, 


•11 


DR.  KANK  a  KXPEDITION. 


511 


and  compelled  them  to  haul  up  on  the  driftin*^  ico. 
By  this  \neans  tliey  were  driftoil  with  it  twenty  miles 
away  from  their  ])roper  course.  Tlu;  hihors  and  toils 
of  the  party  were  extreme  and  rxhau8tin<^ ;  and  yet 
they  manfully  kept  up  their  Bpirit^. 

A  8tran<]:o  j)henomenon  now  showed  itself  amonn' 
them;  and  one  too  of  ominous  imj»ort.  Thou<i;h 
worked  excessively  they  yet  felt  no  liun<rer.  They 
also  seemed  to  lose  their  physical  6tren<j^th.  The 
*' Faith"  also  very  nearly  escaped  destruction,  hy  be- 
in£^  left  behind  for  a  short  time.  The  outside  pressure 
had  broken  the  iloe  asunder,  and  the  Faith  began  to 
float  away  from  them.  Her  loss  would  have  entailed 
that  of  a  large  portion  of  the  scanty  provisions  wliich 
thev  still  possessed ;  and  would  have  inevitably 
sealed  their  ruin.  By  the  utmost  exertions  of  the 
men,  some  of  whom  seemed  nearly  thrown  into  hys- 
terics by  her  threatened  loss,  she  was  again  secured. 

The  situation  of  the  voyagers  continued  to  become 
more  critical.  They  experienced  a  difficulty  in  breath- 
ing, and  an  inability  to  sleep.  Their  line  of  travel 
lay  through  the  open  bay,  in  the  midst  of  the  great 
ice-drift  which  hurried  from  the  Arctic  climes  into 
the  Atlantic  ocean.  Their  boats  were  frail  and  shat- 
tered, and  constantly  made  enough  water  to  require 
their  utmost  exertions  in  bailing,  in  order  to  keep 
them  afloat.  Their  fresh  food  had  been  exhausted 
for  some  days ;  and  they  sufl'ered  from  a  low  fever 
which  prostrated  them  to  the  utmost. 

At  this  point  of  their  progress  they  happily  killed 
a  seal  which  they  discovered  ou  a  small  patch  of  ice. 
The  flrst  sight  of  it  created  the  utmost  enthusiasm 
among  the  men.  As  the  boats  silently  approached 
him  and  before  they  were  within  rifle  shot,  the  seal 
raised  his  head,  surveyed  the  strangers,  and  was  pre- 
paring to  dive  into  the  water.  The  best  marksman 
of  the  company  with  their  best  rifle,  had  just  drawn 
Bight  upon  the  seal ;  and  the  lives  of  the  whole  party 
may  be  said  to  have  depended  on  the  success  of  tho 


I 


612 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  tlSCOVERY. 


shot.  A  moment  of  breathless  anxiety  ensued  ;  but 
the  skill  of  Petersen  prevailed.  At  the  instant  the 
crack  of  the  rifle  was  heard  the  seal  relaxed  his  long 
body,  and  his  head  fell  flat  on  the  ice  upon  its  utmost 
verge.  With  a  loud  yell  the  famished  men  urged 
forward  the  boat  with  their  utmost  strength.  When 
they  reached  the  ice  they  rushed  over  it,  laughing, 
crying,  and  brandishing  their  knives.  The  unhappy 
seal  was  cut  into  strips  before  he  had  fairly  time  to 
expire ;  and  was  gorging  the  men  with  his  raw  re- 
mains. Not  a  single  ounce  was  lost ;  the  intestines 
even,  were  boiled  in  the  soup-kettle  ;  and  the  carti- 
laginous flippers  were  distributed  and  chewed  to 
pieces  with  the  utmost  relish. 

This  opportune  supply  of  fresh  food  saved  the  lives 
of  the  party.  Their  mental  and  physical  health  was 
restored.  Several  days  afterward  they  killed  another 
seal,  and  thus  each  one  retained  a  mens  6ana  in  sano 
corpore.  On  the  1st  of  August  they  came  within  sight 
of  the  Devil's  Thumb,  and  were  no  longer  wanderers 
in  unknown  regions ;  but  were  within  the  limits  of 
the  district  frequented  by  the  whalers.  Soon  they 
reached  the  Duck  Islands.  At  length  they  passed 
Cape  Shackletuu,  and  then  steered  lor  the  shore  of 
Gi-eenland. 

Their  long  voyage  with  its  infinite  anxieties  and 
toils — their  perilous  adventures  amid  cheerless  conti- 
nents of  ice — their  narrow  escapes  from  the  moun- 
tainous ice-bergs — their  suflTerings  from  cold,  hunger, 
and  disease — their  apprciiensions  of  an  unknown 
grave  in  the  solitudes  of  the  Arctic  realms — their 
doubts  of  a  final  happy  escape  from  the  innumerable 
perils,  and  of  their  welcome  vision  of  their  native  land 
and  the  firesides  of  their  former  years — all  these  now 
termiuated  in  eventuiil  triumph  and  escape.  They 
now  gluiped  the  course  directly  toward  the  shores  of 
Greenli.nd,  which  clearly  loomed  up  in  their  distant 
horizon.  JN^ext  day  they  met  the  first  inhabitant  of 
that  vorld  from  which  they  had  been  so  long  shut 


DR.  KANE  S  EXPEDITION. 


613 


out.  It  was  a  Greenlander  who,  in  his  small  canoe 
or  kayak,  was  seeking  eider  down  among  the  islands 
which  stud  the  coast.  They  hailed  him.  One  of  the 
men,  Petersen,  knew  him.  It  was  Paul  Trocharias. 
"  Don't  you  know  me  ? "  enquired  Petersen,  as  the 
boats  approached.  "I'm  Carl  Petersen."  "No,'' 
answered  the  Greenlander,  "his  wife  says  he  is 
dead  ; "  and  with  this  response  he  rowed  away  from 
them. 

During  two  days  longer  they  continued  to  follow 
the  coast,  sailing  southward.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
they  discerned  the  single  mast  of  a  small  shallop,  and 
heard  words  of  minfrled  Enojlish  and  Danish  from  the 
sailors  on  board  of  her.  They  soon  discerned  that 
it  was  the  Upernavick  oil-boat  on  its  way  to  Kingatok 
to  obtain  blubber.  The  annual  ship  had  arrived  from 
Copenhagen  at  Proven  ;  and  this  was  one  of  the  boats 
which  supplied  her  with  a  cargo  of  oil.  From  the 
sailors  on  board  the  shallop,  Dr.  Kane  first  received 
information  of  the  great  events  which,  during  his  ab- 
scence  had  agitated  the  world  to  which  he  had  been 
so  long  a  stranger ;  how  England  and  France  had  com- 
bined with  the  Turk  to  humble  the  haughty  pride  of 
the  imperial  Romanoff;  and  how  vast  armies  were 
then  engaged  in  mortal  strife  on  the  once  quiet  and 
fertile  phiins  of  the  Crimea.  For  the  first  time  he 
learned  the  importance  which  Sebastopol  had  ac- 
quired in  the  history  and  fate  of  the  world,  sur- 
rounded as  it  then  was  with  a  battling  host  of  a  hun- 
dred thousand  men. 

They  rowed  on.  Soon  Kasarsoak,  the  snow-capped 
summit  of  Sanderson's  Hope  appeard  to  them,  tower- 
ing above  the  mists ;  and  as  they  approached  the 
welome  harbor  of  Upernavick,  from  which  they  had 
issued  several  years  before  in  the  gallant  vessel  they 
had  now  left  behind  them,  they  felt  as  o».ly  such  men 
under  such  circumstances  could  feel.  During  eighty- 
four  days  they  had  lived  in  the  open  air,  tossing  in 
frail  boats  on  the  bosom  of  the  angry,  half-frozen 

V 


514 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


deep.  They  were  delivered  from  a  thousand  deaths, 
and  arrived  at  last  safely  at  Upernavick,  where  they 
were  received  with  hospitality  by  the  charitable 
Danes,  who  inhabit  that  lonely  and  cheerless  outport 
of  the  civilized  world. 

Dr.  Kane  resolved  to  embark  his  party  in  the  Dan- 
ish vessel  the  Mariane,  which  sailed  on  the  6th  of 
September  for  the  Shetland  Islands.  They  took  with 
them  their  little  boat  the  Faith,  which  had  accom- 
panied them  through  so  many  adventures.  Tlieyonly 
retained  their  clothes  and  documents,  of  all  they  had 
once  possessed  on  board  the  Advance.  On  the  11th 
they  arrived  at  Godhaven,  where  theyfonnd  their  for- 
mer friend  Mr.  Olrik,  the  Danish  Inspector  of  North 
Greenland.  Here  Dr.  Kane  first  heard  of  the  squad- 
ron under  Captain  Hartstene,  which  had  been  sent 
out  from  the  United  States  in  pursuit  of  him,  and 
learned  that  it  had  touched  at  that  spot. 

This  squadron  consisted  of  two  vessels,  the  United 
States  barque  "Release,"  and  the  United  States  steam- 
brig  "Arctic."  They  had  sailed  from  New  York  in 
June  1855,  and  on  the  9th  of  July  they  were  at 
Lievely  on  the  coast  of  Greenland.  On  that  day  they 
resumed  their  search  after  the  party  of  Dr.  Kane,  and 
sailed  for  Waigat  Strait,  intending  to  touch  at  Uper- 
navick  for  information.  From  Upernavick  both  vessels 
stood  northward.  They  soon  met  the  floating  ice 
drifting  down;  but  they  persisted  in  advancing,  and 
thus  worked  along  for  forty  miles  to  Wedge  Island. 
Here  they  were  compelled  to  moor  themselves  to  the 
bergs,  and  await  the  opening  of  the  ice,  which  liad  be- 
come so  compact  as  to  render  their  immedia^te  ad- 
vance impossible.  Afterseveral  days  the  ice  opened, 
and  enabled  them  to  proceed.  They  then  steamed  to 
Sugar  Loaf  Island,  and  entered  the  closely  packed 
floe  of  Melville  Bay.  By  the  13th  of  August  they 
had  forced  a  passage  into  the  North  "Water,  after 
twenty-eight  days  of  laborious  sailing.  They  then 
passed  Cape  York  and  Wolstenholme  Island.     Here 


DR.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


515 


in 

at 


5d 


hastening  on  in  the  steamer,  Captain  Hartstene  visited 
Cape  Alexander  and  Soutlierland  Island.  These 
points  were  beyond  the  reach  of  the  Esquimaux,  and 
might  probably  contain  traces  of  Dr.  Kane's  party. 
They  were  thoroughly  searched ;  but  no  evidence  ap- 
peared that  any  human  foot  had  ever  invaded  those 
frozen  solitudes.  Tlience  they  advanced  to  Pelham 
Point,  where  they  ( observed  a  few  stones  piled  together. 
A  party  landed  here,  and  beneath  this  rude  monument 
they  discovered  a  small  vial  with  the  letter  K.  cut  in 
the  cork.  The  vial  contained  a  large  musquito,  and 
a  small  piece  of  cartridge  paper,  on  which  was  written 
"  Dt.  Kane,  1853." 

This  discovery  induced  Captain  Hartstene  to  push 
further  north.  The  ice  however  soon  stopped  his 
progress ;  and  drifting  southward  with  the  current, 
he  examined  Cape  Hotturton  and  Littleton  Island. 
But  no  trace  of  Dr.  Kane  was  found,  though  in  a  for- 
mer letter  to  his  brother,  he  had  expressed  his  inten- 
tion to  erect  a  cairn  on  one  of  these  localities.  Fif- 
teen miles  north-west  of  Cape  Alexander  they  discov- 
ered a  party  of  Esquimaux,  who,  three  miles  distant 
on  the  Greenland  shore,  had  a  temporary  settlement 
of  seven  tents,  inhabited  by  thirty  persons.  Here 
Captain  Hartstene  found  many  articles  which  had  be- 
longed to  Dr.  Kane's  party,  and  which  had  been  left 
behind ;  such  as  tin  pans  and  pots,  canvas  and  iron 
spikes,  as  well  as  the  tube  of  a  telescope  which  was 
recognized  as  having  belonged  to  Dr.  Kane. 

Captain  Hartstene  closely  interrogated  the  Es^^ui- 
maux  as  to  their  knowledge  of  the  missing  company. 
From  them  he  learned  that  Dr.  Kane,  having  lost  his 
vessel  somewhere  in  the  ice  to  the  northward,  had 
been  at  that  point  with  two  boats  and  a  sled,  and  af- 
ter remaining  there  ten  days  had  proceeded  south- 
ward toward  IJpernavick.  With  such  conclusive  ^A- 
dence  before  him  Captain  Harts':ene  also  determined 
to  return  southward.  He  touched  at  Cape  Alexander, 
Sutherland  Islands,  and  Hakluyt  Island.    Thence  ho 


616 


PKOGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


steered  for  tlie  entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound,  and  ex- 
amined the  coast  between  Cape  Horsburg  and  Cape 
AVarrander.  After  passing  Cape  Bullin  he  found  the 
ice  firmly  packed,  and  the  vessels  seemed  frozen  into 
their  winter  quarters.  But  after  twenty-four  hours 
spent  in  a  laborious  attempt  to  batter  their  way 
through  the  ice  they  succeeded ;  and  after  thus  ma- 
king tlie  circuit  of  nearly  the  whole  northern  part  of 
Batiin's  Bay,  they  returned  toward  Possession  and 
Pound's  Bay.  Along  this  whole  voyage  they  con- 
stantly fired  guns,  burned  blue-lights  and  threw  up 
rockets,  with  the  hoj^e  of  attracting  the  attention  of 
the  wanderers.  They  were  disappointed  however, 
and  seeing  no  traces  of  Dr.  Kane's  party  whatever. 
Captain  Hartstene  concluded  that  they  had  passed 
through  Melville  Bay  to  Upernavick ;  and  he  resolved 
at  once  to  follow  them  thitiier. 

His  conjecture  was  right.  On  the  11th  of  Septem- 
ber, as  the  Greenland  vessel  Mariane  was  about  set- 
ting out  from  the  port  of  Godhaven,  having  Dr. 
Kane's  party  on  board,  the  look-out  man  at  the  hill- 
top announced  the  approach  of  a  distant  steamer. 
Soon  she  came  nearer,  having  a  barque  in  tow  ;  and 
the  immortal  stars  and  stripes  floating  majestically 
at  her  mast-head.  Instantly  the  Faith  was  lowered 
from  the  side  of  the  Mariane,  and  the  party  in  her 
pulled  lustily  for  the  approaching  vessel.  All  the 
boats  of  the  settlement  hurried  after  her  wake.  Pre- 
sently the  Faith  was  alongside  the  Arctic ;  and  Cap- 
tain Hartstene  eagerly  hailed  a  little  man  in  a  ragged 
flannel  shirt;  ^^  Is  that  Dr.  Kane  V^  An  affirmative 
answer  was  instantly  returned  by  the  Doctor  him- 
self; and  in  a  few  moments  the  distinguished  naviga- 
tor bounded  on  the  deck  of  his  country's  ship ;  was 
received  with  loud  plaudits  of  welcome  by  her  com- 
mander and  crew ;  and  thus  he  and  his  party  returned 
again,  as  those  alive  from  the  dead,  to  an  unfrozen 
world  of  civilization,  comfort,  and  security.  Dr. 
Kane's  labors  had  not  resulted  in  the  d"  :covery  of 


DR.  KANE  8  EXPEDITION. 


617 


any  traces  or  remains  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  ; 
but  it  was  the  means  of  securing  important  additions 
to  geographical  knowledge,  and  valuable  acquisitions 
in  botany,  meteorology,  geology,  and  other  depart- 
ments of  science.  Ills  researches  have  left  but  little 
to  be  obtained  by  any  successor  in  Arctic  explora- 
tions, however  resolute,  vigorous,  and  accomplished 
he  may  be.  Dr.  Kane  and  his  associates  returned 
to  New  York  in  the  squadron  of  Captain  Ilartstene, 
on  the  11th  of  October,  1855. 


Id 
m 
r. 


IflQW  Work)  UnriTalcd  for  Intcrccitf  Value  and  Invtrnctlloii* 


The  Book  of  the  Age  ! 

RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  LIFETIME, 

OR 

MEN  AND  THINGH3  I  HAVE  SEEN  IN  EVBOFE  AND  AMERICA. 

BY  S.  G.  GOODRICH, 

The  veritable  "  Peter  Parley,"  author  of  "The  IHatory  of  All  Nations,"  Ac.  Ac 

In  two  volumes,  1105  pp.  large  12mo,,  25  Original  Engravings,  incl-  ding 

an  aceiinite  Steel  Portrait  of  the  Author.     Price,  Black  or  Scarlet 

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This  work  embraces  the  prominent  public  events  of  the  last  half  century,  both  at  hone 
and  abroad ;  a  complete  Autobiograpliy  of  tlie  author— his  early  days,  education,  ana  lit- 
erary career;  and  an  amount  of  original  curious,  and  valuable  Personal  Incident,  Anec- 
dote, and  Description,  seldom,  if  ever,  met  with  in  a  single  worlc.  It  is  the  Author's 
LiKE-LONO  Work,  and  nothins;  superior,  if  anything  equal  to  it,  in  blended  amusement 
and  iiistrnction,  has  ever  been  publislicd.  Mr.  Goodrich  is  the  author  and  editor  of 
170  Vol  iiinusf  of  which  over  seven  inillioiiN  of  copies  have  been  sold!  and 
this,  the  creat  work  of  his  life,  embodies  tiie  condensed  substance  of  his  ample  Litsravy 
and  Practical  Experieiice;  the  TTarwii/t /Tw^iuwditt  1812-14,  In  whl-jh  Mr.  Goodrich 
■was  a  private  soldier;  tlio  Hartford  Convention,  whoso  operations  took  place  under  his 
Immediate  observation,  and  with  most  of  tlie  members  of  which  he  was  personally  ac- 
qiiaitiU'd.  Embracing  curious  and  interesting  details  respecting  Old  Jeffersonian  1)6- 
mocracy.  Old  Federalimi.,  and  Connecticut  Blue  Lightit;  curious  and  marvellous 
events  connected  with  tlio  rise  and  progress  of  Rrligious  Sects  in  the  United  States; 
with  descriptions  of  tlie  French  Revolution  0/1848,  and  Louis  Napol^m^s  Coup  d  Etat^ 
both  of  wliicli  tlie  author  witnessed.  Also,  a  full  account  of  the  "  PETER  PARLEY'S 
TALE8,"  of  which  Kour  Millions  have  been  sold. 

In  the  course  of  the  work  will  bo  found  a  Gallery  of  Pbn  and  Ink  Portraits  of 
men  Two  Hundred  Celebrated  Persons— VK&U\e:n\»,  Vice-Presidents,  Kings,  Queei;<s 
Emperors.  Soldiers,  Poets,  Wits,  Enthusiasts,  Physicians,  Preachers,  Lawyers,  Politi- 
cians, Diplomatists,  i&c. — all  described  from  personal  acquaintance  or  observation — among 
M'hom  are  tlie  following: 

Henry  Clay,     Duke  of  "Wellington,  Benjamin  "West, 
Dan'l  Webster,  Lord  Brougham,        Fenimore  Cooper, 
M.  Van  Buren,  Sir  J.  Mackintosh,     Percival, 
M.  Fillmore,     King  Rhio  Rhio,  or   ~ 
Mad.  Malibraii,  J.  0.  Fremont,      Dog  of  Dogs, 
General  Scott,  Louis  Phillippe, 
Prof.  Silliman,  Louis  Napoleon, 
Eli  Whitney,    Thos.  A.  Emmett, 
Judge  Kent,     Bishop  Seabury, 
Geo.  Cabot,       Bisliop  Wainwright,  Charles  Sprague, 
H.  G.  Otis,        Dr.  Mason,  Longfellow, 

Pn-s't  Monroe,  Jas.  HilUiouse,  Dr.  Romeyn,  Pierpont, 

J.  Q.  Adanjs,     Uriah  Tracy,     Archibald  Grade,      T.  Buchanan  Seed, 
Dr.  Dwighi;,      Kath'l  Smith,    Minot  Sherman,        Jacob  Perkins. 

To  all  which  is  added,  the  Author's  recent 

ANECDOTES   OF  TRAVEL, 

In  England,  Scotland,  Ireland,  France  and  Italy,  together  with  a  Complete  CATALOGtm 
or  tuk  Autuok's  Works,  now  for  the  first  time  published;  with  curious  commentaries 
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Queen  Victoria  Mad.  Catalini, 
Sir  W.Scott,      " 
Lord  .Jeffrey,     Pasta, 
J.  G.  Lockh'art,  Talma, 
"W.  Blackwood  Mile.  Mars, 
Hannah  More,   Rachel, 


Dr  (^lialiners, 
Eilw.  Irving, 
Thos.  IIooil. 
Louis  XVIIL 
Charies  X 


Ristori, 
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Braincrd, 
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Mrs.  Sigourney, 
Miss  Secigwick, 
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'LENA  EIVERS. 

BY  MAkY  J.  HOLMES, 

Author  of  "  Tempest  and  Sunshine,'"  "The  English  Orphans,"  '* The  Homestead 

on  the  Hillside,"  etc.  etc. 

In  One  Volume,  416  Puh^ch,  12mo*    Price  %l  00. 

> 

As  the  social  and  domestic  relations  are  the  great  sources  of  happi- 
ness, or  its  opposites,  so  those  romances  that  properly  treat  of  those  re- 
lations— of  tlie  virtues  that  adorn,  and  of  the  vices  that  deform  them 
— are  clearly  tiie  most  interesting,  impressive,  and  useful. 

MiEXA  EIVERS  is  an  American  Domestic  Story,  unveiling  in  a  mas- 
terly manner  the  sources  of  social  and  domestic  enjoyment,  or  of  dis- 
quiet and  misery.  By  intermarriages  of  New  England  and  Kentucky 
parties,  a  field  is  opened  to  exhibit  both  Yankee  and  Southern  dome»tic  life, 
for  which  the  talented  authoress  was  well  prepared,  being  of  Yankee 
birth  and  early  education,  and  having  subsequently  resided  in  the  South, 
tihe  was  thus  especially  fitted  to  dagueri'eotype  the  strictly  domestic 
and  social  peculiarities  of  both  sections. 

'LENA  RIVERS  AND  THE  PRESS. 

A  work  of  unusual  promise  Mrs.  Holmes  possesses  an  enviable  talent  in  the  study  of 
American  characttT,  whicli  is  so  perfectly  developed  by  acute  observation  from  life,  that 
it  would  now  be  impossible  tor  her  to  write  an  uninteresting  book. — Phila.  iSat,  BiMeihh. 

There  still  lingers  the  artist-mind,  enlivening,  cheering,  and  consoling  by  happy 
thoughts  and  pleasant  words;  moving  the  heart  alternately  to  joy  or  sorrow,  convulsiug 
with  laughter,  or  bringing  tears  to  the  eyes. — Jiodumter  American. 

The  cl)aracters  are  well  drawn,  and  the  tale  is  one  of  interest.  .  It  will  find  many  well 
pleased  readers. — Albany  Statesman. 

The  story  is  simple,  natural,  truthful. — Rochester  Daily  Advertiser. 

Before  we  were  aware,  we  had  read  the  first  two  chapters.  We  read  on — and  on — and 
It  wjis  long  after  midnight  when  we  finished  the  volume.  We  could  not  leave  it.  We 
know  of  no  work  with  which  we  could  compare  "'Lena  Rivers" — so  as  to  form  a  just 
estimation  of  its  merits. — MerrichviUe  Chronicle. 

It  is  not  the  first  of  ti>e  author's  works,  but  it  is  the  best — State  Register. 

To  the  sex  we  commend  it,  on  the  assurance  of  its  merit,  volunteered  to  us  by  ladies 
in  whose  critical  acumen  we  have  the  fullest  confidence.— ^w/o/o  Express. 

The  story  opens  in  New  England,  and  Is  continued  in  Kentucky,  with  very  lively  and 
characteristic  sketches  of  scenerv  and  character  in  botli  States,  it  is  both  qood  and  ui- 
ISTHESTING. — New  York  Daily  Times. 

The  moral  of  the  plot  is  excellent  Cowardly  virtue,  as  exhibited  by  'Lena's  father, 
may  here  le.arn  a  Itsson  without  sufl'ering  his  bitter  experience;  while  the  rashness  of 
youth  may  be  warned  against  desperate  acts,  before  a  perfect  uaderstondiug  is  had. — Jiew 
Bedford  Express. 

^«  ♦  »»■ 

Jutt  Publithedf  uniform  with  the  abovej  a  JWtr  JEditton  of 

BY  MARY  J.  HOLMES. 
In  One  Volumef  380  pp.  12nio.    Price  t|l  00. 

This  earlier  work  of  Mrs.  Holmes  received  the  highest  praise  of  Re- 
viewers, and  has  proved  a  great  favorite  with  all  classes  of  intelligent 
readers. 

MILLER,  OETON  &  CO.,  PuWishers, 

25  Park  Eow,  New  York,  and  107  Genesee-st,  Auburn. 


Ho !  for  the  Great  West ! 


THE  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES 

OK 

THE    aHE^T   ^\^EST: 

INCLUDING 

Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  Minnesota. 
Kansas,  and  Nebraska — their  Geography,  History,  Advantages,  Re- 
sources, and  Prospects;  comprising  their  Local  llistor}',  Institutions, 
and  Laws  ;  and  giving  a  Table  of  Distances,  and  the  most  direct 
Routes  and  Modes  of  Conveyance,  <fec.  «fec. 

BY  JACOB   P^KRRIS. 

Map  and  Numerous  Illustrations,  356  pp.  12mo.   Price  $1  26. 

WHAT  WILL  BE  FOUND  IN  WHO  WILL   WANT 


THE    QREAT    WEST, 

Where  the  Climate  is  the  Healthiest, 
Where  the  Water  is  tlie  Turest, 
Wht-re  the  Timber  is  the  Finest, 
Where  the  Soil  is  most  I'roductive, 
Where  are  lounil  tiie  Choicest  Coal-fields, 
Where  the  Iron  Mines  are  liichcet, 
Wliere  the  Co[)per's  uiost  Abundant, 
How  to  Travel  in  the  Far  West, 
Where  the  Emigrant  should  Settle. 
What  already  has  been  done  there, 
What  is  going  on  at  present, 
And  in  future  what  may  yet  be. 


THE    QREAT    WEST, 

The  General  Reader  will  want  it  I 

The  Pleasure  Traveler! 

Holders  of  Western  Stocks  I 

Owners  of  Western  Lands  I 

Those  who  are  seeking  their  Fortunes  I 

Enterprising  Young  Men  I 

Ladies  watching  for  the  Main  Chance  1 

Capitalists  with  Surplus  Funds  1 

Tliose  wlio  love  to  go  ahead ! 

Men  with  rising  Families 

Those  who  have  Children  out  there! 

EvKBYBODY  that  iikes  a  Useful  Book, 


OPINIONS    OF    THE    PRESS. 

This  book  is  a  rich  repository  of  facta,  and  appears  at  a  time  when  the  public  de- 
mand for  such  knowledge  must  secure  for  it  a  wide  circulation.  It  is  timely,  and  meets 
a  i)ositive  want.  It  takes  a  broad  view  of  the  entire  west,  this  side  of  the  Kocky  Moun- 
tains. Starting  with  the  earliest  history  uf  that  almost  fabled  land,  the  reader  is  kept 
aloni;  the  track  of  territorial  and  State  development,  constantly  charmed,  excited, 
astonished  at  what  his  oyes  behold,  until,  as  by  magic,  there  arise  before  him  powerful 
States,  with  their  government,  arts,  commerce,  agriculture,  and  all  the  emblems  of 
greatness  and  prosperity,  where  but  just  before,  the  rude  forest  and  the  wild  savage 
alone  held  sway. — Northern  GlirUtian  Advocate. 

In  the  chapter  on  Kansas,  the  author  presents  a  succinct  view  of  the  antecedents  of 
the  present  controversy  in  regard  to  the  occupation  of  its  soil,  with  a  lucid  sketch  of 
the  events  that  have  recently  made  it  an  object  of  such  universal  interest.  We  com- 
mend his  statements  to  all  who  wish  to  possess  a  brief  record  of  the  conflict  between 
Freedom  and  Slavery,  wliich  is  now  raging  in  that  quarter. — New  York  I'ribuiie, 

Mr.  Ferris's  work  supplies  a  deficiency  in  literature,  inasmuch  as  it  is  a  comprehen- 
Bivo  view  of  the  entire  West,  and  not  of  a  single  portion  thereof.  The  book  is  practi- 
cally complete.  It  touches  every  phase  of  life,  and  takes  up  every  important  historical 
and  biographical  fact,  pertaining  to  the  western  country.  In  style  it  is  simple,  })leasing 
and  unatfected.  We  judge  it  to  be  a  valuable  book  of  reference,  as  well  as  an  entertain- 
ing narrative. — FhU.  Siit.  Eve.  Post. 

Afler  a  careful  examination  of  its  contents,  we  liave  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing  it  one 
of  the  very  best  books  lately  published.  In  no  other  quarter  have  we  seen  so  full  and  com* 
prebensive  a  view  of  the  West, — Genius  of  Liberty. 

MILLER,  ORTON  &  CO.,  Publishers, 

26  Park  Row,  New  York,  and  107  Genesee-st.,  Auburn. 


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